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IDF Centurion Mk 5 Shot


BadCop

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Here goes my second build for this GB - another AFV Club Centurion Main Battle Tank. This is the IDF Shot version as used in the Six Day War of 1967, and (aside from the Israeli markings) mainly differs from the other kits in having am M2 50cal MG in the commanders Cupola instead of the Browning .30 cal.

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As a first edition kit, it includes a 105mm gun Barrel to build the tanks as they were mostly upgraded to during the Six day war, but I choose to build a pre war version with the 20 pounder cannon.

This is the Aftermarket that I plan to use with this build - the Voyager PE set, AFV Club Individual link tracks, and a Lion Marc replacement turret that will make it unnecessary to clean up the difficult seams around the turret parts and construct the Canvas covering over the Mantlet.

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Here are some pictures of the Sprues, Resin, PE Frets and various bits and pieces before I start ruining them by actually building them.

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Thanks for the interest everyone - I'll try to keep it updated regularly.

Day 1: Progress for now is nothing exciting. I've finished the six suspension units. Here's a quick picture. Apologies for the poor quality, but my Digital Camera is dying. About 6 months ago it fell into a bucket of water - I managed to get it out quickly and dry it out, but it has been deteriorating slowly since then.

Shot019.jpg

The suspension units are fully workable, but the 4 with the arms on the sides are held on at two points by melting a mounting pin, and the bottom part just resting with a peg in a hole. It normally comes out if the suspension is moved, so I'll end up gluing it in position.

Next I will start work on the Final Drives, Return rollers, Idler mountings,and rear Hull Plate.

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Thanks Mish. Some more progress to report now.

Day 2 - More work on the lower Hull.

The Final Drives have been completed - Simple work.

Shot025.jpg

Not so simple are the replacement PE parts for the rear Hull Plates - a Leaf spring mount for the rear towing pintle, and a 'spade' looking part.

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Here are they attached

Shot026.jpg

And finally, everything built so far is put together.

Shot027.jpg

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Looks great so far Trent. Like the idea of the workable tracks, the kit one in my Mk6 kit sheered at the join so it's a case of staples and thank god for track guards!

Tony :clif:

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Thanks for the Comments everyone.

Derbyeomanry - Although it does look the part, I don't think it is an exhaust deflector, as the Centurion has a large muffler on each of the fenders for the exhausts. I'd be happy for anyone who knows definitely what the part is to enlighten me.

Oz - I've had another good look over all those Bovington Centurion pictures you've given me, and they will come in very handy!

Tony - As I'm using aftermarket tracks, I won't be needing my rubber band tracks. I also have a spare set from my Mk6 build. If you want them PM me your address and I'll be happy to send them your way.

I'm working nights at the moment and need to get a few hours sleep before I can get some more work done. The next step is tedious and boring anyway - cleaning up and assembling all of the Round stuff that attaches to the suspension - :banghead:

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Hi Trent, looks like another great centurion build :popcorn: got to ask I've been thinking about getting the AFV club separate track links for my centurion, but I've heard they don't go together as well as the Dragon smart links & they're quite brittle to assemble .

Andy.

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OOOPS = had a senior moment - Forgot exhausts were mounted either side on top of hull - think its to deflect aiir drawn through radiators and pumped out of back to stop kicking so much dust up.

Great build so far - have Australian version - should really make a start on it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for the continued attention and comments.

Derby - there are radiators in the compartment above the deflector, so I'd say you're spot on!

Andy - The AFV Club links are somewhat fragile and the locating pins that fit into the slots in the corresponding links break quite easily. The links still join up, but they are difficult to keep straight. Even when you manage to get the links together properly, they are very stiff and require care to join around the suspension. A far better and more expensive choice would be the resin WW2 productions tracks or maybe the metal Fruil tracks - I suppose you gets what you pays for. I bought three AFV club sets for my 4 Centurion kits so I'll just make the best of what I've got.

After being delayed considerably by some domestic issues and busy times at work, I'll call today officially day 3 of the build.

I've finally gotten some more work done - attaching the remaining parts of the suspension, return roller mounts and a few other small bits and pieces, I've also finished the most tedious and annoying part of armour building - Cleaning up and assembling the wheels, return rollers, Idlers and Sprockets.

Shot.jpg

AFV Club make each of the road wheels in two pieces, with the rims moulded in vinyl separately from the main part of the wheel. A little trickle of Tamiya extra thin seems to do the job of binding them together reasonably well - Strange as it doesn't seem to react with the vinyl at all. You ask "Why not just add the rim after painting the wheels, letting you paint them separately and avoid the ever so fun job of tyre painting?" Well, in their infinite wisdom, AFV Club included part of the rim as well as the rubber tyre in the vinyl moulding. In their defence, it allows them to mould in some circumferential ribbing on the inside of the rim beneath the rubber.

Next up will be construction of the Radiator Compartment and upper deck of the Hull. The instructions are a little unclear as to whether the Mk 5 version requires the placement of an applique armour panel on the upper Hull Glacis. The instructions seem to have been printed showing this only being used for the Mk 5/1, but the step for the Mk 5 also has a part number (F8) stamped in red on the Glacis seemingly to indicate that this part should be used. As far as I know, adding this extra armour to the Mk 5 is what makes it a Mk 5/1 version? Anyone have any pics of pre Six Day war Centurions to clear up the matter?

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Guest snipersmudge

yep know what you mean regarding the wheels. I always do the wheels first on my armour builds that way they are done and out the way. great work too old fruit :speak_cool:

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Thanks Pete and Mish.

When I said that the wheels were the worst part of the build, I forgot one thing - cleaning up and assembling Individual Track link runs. To start those now would truly kill any motivation I have now, so I'll keep going on with the Upper Hull.

Here's the Radiators and the first part of the engine deck.

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And the next part of the engine deck is added now....

Shot029.jpg

.... and finally the turret ring, Drivers Hatch area, and the Glacis with attached front fenders. The last Centurion I built came out with the Fenders bent somewhat downwards. I have gently bent these upwards to hopefully allow me to avoid it on this build.

Shot030.jpg

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When I said that the wheels were the worst part of the build, I forgot one thing - cleaning up and assembling Individual Track link runs. To start those now would truly kill any motivation I have now, so I'll keep going on with the Upper Hull.

Well I have to agree with that statement! Back in the day when I built armour, I eneded up haveing two bags of links, OOB and completed. If I was stuck for somthing else to do (hmm, not often) I'd pull out the bags and a couple of favorate tools and just do a few, In front of the TV, sat in the garden, but always only a few at a time. Doing it as one big job, as you say, saps the will to live!

Great work here, loods good so far

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Thanks everyone for the comments and views.

Before I get onto the Fenders, I thought I'd better finish the rear hull plate with a few bits and pieces of PE as well as a Resin Box (different Infantry phone?).

Shot045.jpg

Just for fun, I've temporarily put on the turret and the 20 pounder gun barrel. Looks very strange without tracks and fenders.

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Okay, with that out of the way, I've started work on the Fenders, beginning with adding the PE Bits and Pieces to the Storage bins.

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Edited by BadCop
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