First attempt at soldering

[OzH]

I thought I’d get an access ladder for my Tornado’s put together, then thought I’d solder it, can’t be that hard? WRONG!

A couple of very frustrating nights work here, got a little stressed trying to get the steps level, not like with glue, when you have a few seconds to move it before setting. And then soldering one piece only to have a previous piece fall off!!!

Anyway, here are a few shots of what you get and the assembly instructions

And here’s my attempt!

[Mike]

Soldering... a tricky technique to master. The ideal is to use a temperature controlled iron, and various grades of solder that melt at certain levels. You start the job with the highest melt point solder, and work down with each joint. That's supposed to be the best way of avoiding having your previous joint melt. It's also quite expensive, both in the cost of a temp controlled iron, and buying multiple reels of solder.

I've got some soldering gear on the way from Maplin, as I've got a soldering job that needs doing. One of the items is a heat shunt, which is basically a very heat conductive pair of reverse tweezers. It's apparently what people use to stop heat travelling too far along the items they're trying to solder. I've also ordered some helping hands to hold onto things while I wield the soldering iron.

Well done though Oz - I'm sure that at normal magnification the tiny inaccuracies in the step placement don't show. You're a braver man than me!

[AnonymousFY21]

Hi Oz

Can be very tricky. What you need to do is look out for solders with varying melt temps. And if possible get solder paste, this will allow you to place the solder where you want it then bring the iron up to the joint. If you can get hold of different solders you can then start off with the hottest and gradually work down.

My father used to make Gauge 1 locos for a local guy and they were mainly sheet brass and this is how he had to approach it, otherwise the same as you found happens.

I believe he used to buy them through Shesto or someone like that, though it could have been Javis. The model engineering or railway mags will probably have adverts.

I used paste successfully on a 1/43 Jaguar XJR14 rear wing. It was the only way to do such a small assembly.

To be honest mate, if that is your first attempt, well done . I have seen a LOT worse by so called professionals. You obviously have the knack.

Hope that helps a little.

rich

Dohh Mike got there first.

rich

[Dave Gibson]

Soldering... a tricky technique to master. The ideal is to use a temperature controlled iron, and various grades of solder that melt at certain levels. You start the job with the highest melt point solder, and work down with each joint. That's supposed to be the best way of avoiding having your previous joint melt. It's also quite expensive, both in the cost of a temp controlled iron, and buying multiple reels of solder.

I've got some soldering gear on the way from Maplin, as I've got a soldering job that needs doing. One of the items is a heat shunt, which is basically a very heat conductive pair of reverse tweezers. It's apparently what people use to stop heat travelling too far along the items they're trying to solder. I've also ordered some helping hands to hold onto things while I wield the soldering iron.

Well done though Oz - I'm sure that at normal magnification the tiny inaccuracies in the step placement don't show. You're a braver man than me!

I was taught to solder using high tin solder and spent spirit flux. Low melting point and a good flux - dead easy to use. I now use 95% phosphoric acid flux. With this, I've managed to solder stainless steel tubing.

Dave.

[miduppergunner]

Having done some like stuff on model ships - sometimes silver soldering too - I can say that you have done a very good job. With those tiny items the heat transfer is very great, and so can be the distortion. Frankly I would have used CA and set light to my hair instead if I felt that masochistic!

Edited August 31, 2008 by miduppergunner

[OzH]

Thanks for the comments and tips.

A question though:

The soldering paste, am I right in thinking you paint (or squirt from a tupe) it on a joint, then heat it and your done? If so that sounds good! Do you still need to use flux as well?

[AnonymousFY21]

It literally is a paste. Brush it onto the area you want to solder and run the iron along the joint and it's done. I am now pretty sure the paste came from Javis. I think they still exist.

Flux would help on some surfaces, but brass is pretty good if cleaned and lightly abraded first.

rich

[Tigerausfb]

You've dived in at the deep end with a ladder Oz! For a first go it came out pretty good. I started soldering PE a few years ago and use Carrs No.145 and their Green label flux. I have a 25w and 40w iron but my most used iron is one of those Benzomatic butane irons, which are ideal for modelling. I got mine from B&Q IIRC. Also get some Blu-Tac to hold your parts, some light wood strip to make jigs out of (e.g for your ladder), alligator clips and a box of tissues which you can then tear up, wet and place or wrap around the part strategically to act as heat sinks

Here's a link to some Carrs stuff if it's of interest

Carrs at Chronos

Andy

[Alan P]

Carrs No.145 and their Green label flux.

Here's a link to some Carrs stuff if it's of interest

Carrs at Chronos

The link suggests Green label flux is not suitable for brass or nickel silver? Flightpath recommends Red label which is a low temp flux. Anything you could shed light on that as i'm totally confused now!

[Tigerausfb]

The link suggests Green label flux is not suitable for brass or nickel silver? Flightpath recommends Red label which is a low temp flux. Anything you could shed light on that as i'm totally confused now!

Hi PHaTNesS

I think the copy's not too well written. It might be better written as "This is the biggest seller and for most modellers the flux to instinctively turn to. It is suitable for use with steel (but not stainless steel), copper , brass or nickel silver etc." Make sense now?

Have a go with both sorts of flux. I'm soldering quite large parts (i.e they absorb the heat better) as well so I'd use the 40w iron to get the heat on quickly. ...back in a mo the missus is shouting from below..... as I was saying before getting dragged away, I use the 40w iron to get the heat to the parts quickly. A cooler iron takes it's time to heat the parts up and of course this can cause more distortion on thin photo-etched pieces (lessened by the use wet blobs of tissue as heat sinks). But even with smaller parts the Green Label + No.147 and the butane iron is what I use. Which is a long-winded way of saying this is why I use the 'hotter' flux

Andy

Edited September 2, 2008 by Tigerausfb

[Alan P]

Hi PHaTNesS

I think the copy's not too well written. It might be better written as "This is the biggest seller and for most modellers the flux to instinctively turn to. It is suitable for use with steel (but not stainless steel), copper , brass or nickel silver etc. Make sense now?

Have a go with both sorts of flux. I'm soldering quite large parts (i.e the absorb the heat better) as well so I'd use the 40w iron to get the heat on quickly. ...back in a mo the missus is shouting from below.....

Andy

:lightbulb going on smilie: or something to that effect!

thanks!

[KiwiSteve]

Great effort on the soldering Oz, I have to do it sometimes for my job and I still suck at it, yours looks sweet. One thing to remember is if you don't want to put to much heat into the metal is reduce the tip size it'll take abit longer to heat but that heat will be localized also making sure the tip is clean will also help.

[DJPFlightpath]

<<The link suggests Green label flux is not suitable for brass or nickel silver? Flightpath recommends Red label which is a low temp flux. Anything you could shed light on that as i'm totally confused now!>>

In recent weeks I've been trying out a water-based flux purchased through a model railway site and I would now use this in favour of the Carrs. It is really good stuff. Here is the link - http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/

You can not only buy the flux here but there is a good section on soldering techniques. Although this is a railway site, a look through the gallery section will show you what can be acheived in with etched brass/nickel silver construction - in this case using manily kits from our own railway range - Modern Motive Power.

I think the soldering on the access ladder is very good indeed for a first attempt. Looking back, I don't think my first attempts at soldering nearly 40 years ago were as good!!! For something like that access ladder I think that it might be adequate just to solder the main side units to the top platform and then just the lower step. This would give you a strong & square assembly onto which the other parts could be fitted using adhesive, as it is not like, say, a railway locomotive that has to work and be handled repeatedly.

I hope these comments are of some help.

Regards,

David Parkins,

Flightpath

www.djparkins.com