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Decal setting solutions


Ant

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Hi,

I've been using microset and microsol for a while, usually with good results. I've recently come across some decals which just don't seem to respond to it. I'm guessing I need something stronger. Any recommendations? I'm aware of other products (e.g. solvaset, mr mark setter etc), but have never used them or seen them in action first hand.

Thanks,

Ant.

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It might pay you to check, since there are stories, around, that there are two Microsols, with one for the usual decals, with cellulose base, and another designed for decals with an acrylic base. Certainly my old bottle of Sol smells different from a new one.

Edgar

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2 options i use if you need to nuke some thick stubborn decals

Daco decalsetting strong version (comes in 3 types) or Mr Mark softer (thats what the label says on mine) ... dont use them on thin decals though :lol:

Edited by ChelseaFC
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Hi Ant, the Gunze Mr Marksetter and Mr Marksofter are designed, I believe, for use Hasegawa, Tamiya, Fine molds decals.

Marksofter is certainly stronger than Microsol - and it does a very good job at getting instrument panel decals to really snuggle down into recesses. MDC sells it in the UK, along with all the other Gunze 'Mr' products.

I use microset and sol for most decals, with the Misters being used for more troublesome decals.

I have tried using vinegar on decals - and apart from making my model smell like a chip shop - it didnt do much!

Cheers

JonKT

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Hi,

I've been using microset and microsol for a while, usually with good results. I've recently come across some decals which just don't seem to respond to it. I'm guessing I need something stronger. Any recommendations? I'm aware of other products (e.g. solvaset, mr mark setter etc), but have never used them or seen them in action first hand.

Thanks,

Ant.

Methylated Spirits works brilliantly and is considerably cheaper than "modelling products", apply a SMALL amount around the edges and have a cotton bud handy for any excess. In most cases it is virtually instantaneous, just be careful as on very rare occassions it can attack the decal.

MODeller

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Hi,

I've been using microset and microsol for a while, usually with good results. I've recently come across some decals which just don't seem to respond to it. I'm guessing I need something stronger. Any recommendations? I'm aware of other products (e.g. solvaset, mr mark setter etc), but have never used them or seen them in action first hand.

Thanks,

Ant.

Sorry,should have added that I am applying Meths over Gloss Enamels, I have no experience of applying it over Acrylic paints, but know that it will definitely attack Johnsons Klear. Apologies all round.

MODeller

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the replies chaps. I couldn't get hold of the Daco solutions as everywhere was sold out. Instead I got some of the Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer. I have to say, they worked a treat. I tested them on some really thin Academy decals on a matt (primer only) test subject. The decals have stuck down perfectly and have sunk down over detail lumps and into panel lines. I'll be giving the Tamiya thinners and Meths a go shortly.

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I picked up some Daco 'medium' setting solution from The Aviation Hobby Shop a couple of weeks ago.

To be honest I can't see much difference between the Daco and my regular MicroSol. If anything the Daco stuff seems to 'bead up' into droplets on top of the decal, whereas the MicroSol covers nice and evenly.

I still wouldn't mind giving the Daco 'strong' a try. Although last time I was in TAHS they didn't have any.

Mart

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Sorry,should have added that I am applying Meths over Gloss Enamels, I have no experience of applying it over Acrylic paints, but know that it will definitely attack Johnsons Klear. Apologies all round. MODeller

I found this out for myself the other day! The result was not disastrous and readily fixed, but it produces a cloudy/powdery effect... Next time, deionised water with a tiny drop of detergent - I use some stuff called Micro that I got years ago, very pure for cleaning lab equipment, highly concentrated.

And for applying decals, I emphasise that I am a raw beginner, but though I'd heard about Microset/sol, before ever getting any I tried Klear - and it's excellent. First tried dunking decals in the stuff then applying, but accidents happen too easily, so now I just slosh neat Klear onto the area in question, slide on the decal, position with a brush or cotton bud, roll a bit with latter. I find decals settle right down into the surface detail and it's easy to eliminate air bubbles. Seems to work for me, and saves money on those fancy solutions.

Regards, Malcolm

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Here's a comparison of a couple of Academy decals applied using Mr. Mark Setter / Softer and Tamiya X-20A thinners, onto a primer only surface. I applied these to the underside of an old Airfix 1/48 spitfire which I use for testing purposes. The decals are in the same positions on different wings. I positioned the decals over a lump and over a panel line formed by the join of the ailerons to the wing.

The first couple featuring the Academy logo were set using Mr. Mark Setter first, followed by Mr. Mark Softer. As expected, the Mr. Mark Softer caused the decal to wrinkle up and then settle down to the final effect overnight. Pretty damn good I thought.

Dscn5562.jpg

Dscn5561.jpg

The next set of pictures featuring the decal "P-38J LIGHTNING" was set using nothing but water to initially place the decal on the model followed (after pressing down and drying with a tissue and waiting 5mins) by a drop of Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners. It wrinkled up very quickly but settled down overnight. Also pretty damn good! In fact, probably just as good as the Mr. Mark products.

Dscn5565.jpg

Dscn5564.jpg

Dscn5563.jpg

I'll test out the meths method soon and report back with pictures.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 4 years later...

As a skint father i looked around my house looking for something to soften my decals I noticed my daughters nail polish remover contained water (aqua) so I thought I would give it a try with a neat solution it just erased the decal lucky it was a test piece I tried various solutions and ended up with a 50/50 water to polish remover ratio , I soaked the decal in water to loosen and using a spare paint brush wetted the area where I was going to try the decal with the solution moved the decal into place blew on it to remove any excess water and then brushed over it with the solution again the effect was almost instant with the decal setting in all the panel joints etc cost me nothing but time and smells nice aswell (perfumed lol) the model is a test one I've been using to test out various paints etc so have no idea which paint it is I will see about getting a pic

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As a skint father i looked around my house looking for something to soften my decals I noticed my daughters nail polish remover contained water (aqua) so I thought I would give it a try with a neat solution it just erased the decal lucky it was a test piece I tried various solutions and ended up with a 50/50 water to polish remover ratio , I soaked the decal in water to loosen and using a spare paint brush wetted the area where I was going to try the decal with the solution moved the decal into place blew on it to remove any excess water and then brushed over it with the solution again the effect was almost instant with the decal setting in all the panel joints etc cost me nothing but time and smells nice aswell (perfumed lol) the model is a test one I've been using to test out various paints etc so have no idea which paint it is I will see about getting a pic

Be very careful using nail polish remover on your paint work. I use acetone free nail polish remover to remove acrylic paint from models!

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thanks for the heads up I was just amazed it worked the only paints I have been using so far are the ones from starter sets and it hasn't effected them so far but I will keep a eye on it.

Excuse the painting and the quality of the photo but you can see the decal has settled in even picking up all my horrible brush strokes, I have noticed a bit of " silvering" if that's the correct term but only when the light catches it.

20150124_143907_zpsgzmcrnyr.jpg

I knew the painting was rough but close up boy its bad still its only my test piece.

Edited by mtchllro
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