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Found 22 results

  1. After the 1/48th Tarangus' Saab JA37 (ref.TA4803 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970637-saab-ja37-viggen-148/?hl=viggen) and the Special Hobby's AJ37 Viggen (ref. SH48148 - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981928-saab-aj-37-viggen-148/?hl=viggen), here's the two seats variant, the Saab Sk37 Viggen, once again by Special Hobby - ref.481?? Source: https://www.facebook.com/specialhobby/posts/920557591372439 V.P.
  2. After the 1/48th kits - Tarangus: link1 & link2; Special Hobby link3 (I'm still waiting the Sk.37 two seats variant Link3), Tarangus is continuing its partnership with Special Hobby (link) with the production of 1/72nd Saab 37 Viggen kits. Source: http://www.tarangus.se/2017/10/30/new-viggen-in-172-scale/ V.P.
  3. JA-37 Viggen Canard Correction Set (4362) AJ/SF/SH-37 Viggen Canard Correction Set (4361) (for Special Hobby/Tarangus) 1:48 Special Hobby Tarangus brought us a newly tooled JA-37 Viggen a few years ago, consigning the old Airfix kit to history, and Special Hobby - the people behind the tooling and moulding of the Tarangus kit - brought us the AJ-37, AJS-37, and the SH/SF-37 was handled by Tarangus again. As a Viggen lover, I'm still waiting for the two-seater, so if anyone in a position to help move that along is listening, get a move on! Every model has its flaws, and it seems that the angle of the leading edge of the flaps on the canards was a little off, so Special Hobby have created these two sets to correct that issue. They also add a smidge of additional detail to the flap itself, including the see-through parts, and each set has the correct number of vortex generators on the rear edge of the fixed portion of the canard. The canards have the root fairing along their full length, which leaves a thin section where the flap sits, so take care when removing the parts from the casting block. One of my samples had warped in the box, but this is easily fixed by taping the part to a flat surface and pouring hot water from the kettle over it, then dousing it under the cold tap. Handily, the correct angle of droop for the flaps is given on the instructions as 30o, but do take care not to cut off the lugs from the fairing sides, as they are the locating point on the fuselage. A couple of small air bubbles mar an otherwise good set slightly, but this is easy to clean up, and casting thin parts is prone to this kind of issue. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. AJ/SF/SH-37 (4361) JA-37 (4362) Review sample courtesy of
  4. Tarangus will release their long-expected recce version of their 1/48 Viggen in May or June this year. It will include a new nose for the SF 37 and parts for the AJ 37-similar SH 37. Positive news of course, however I think it also means that Special Hobby's SK 37 two-seater will be postponed. Source: Rebell Hobby (run by the same company as Tarangus).
  5. No. this is not the title of a previously unknown Christmas album by the Who, but a new venture for me. I was given a kit for Christmas by my dear wife, and have decided that, since it is a relatively simple build with not that many parts, I should be able to build it fairly fast. Unlike all my other builds, I do not intend to super-detail anything, or add any after-market parts to it, other than the set of masks I already have, and probably some Airscale instruments to pep up the very visible cockpit. Oh, and a fair amount nose weight, I should imagine! So I present to you the statutory sprue shot of the Tarangus 1/48 Scottish Aviation Bulldog T1. It will be built as XX541/L of RNEFTS, RAF Topcliffe, the aircraft in which I did my first Bullfrog solo on 2 May 1985.
  6. Hi guys, i'd like to show you my new Lansen from Tarangus. Not exactly an user-friendly kit and finally after 8 months i call it done. Phew ( WIP thread in czech language here: http://modelari.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=994 ) Thanks for looking. Br from Prague. Andrew
  7. Finished this earlier this year - but forgot a few details. But now it is finished. I tried to capture the heavliy weathered F 5-56 in which I flew during my military service 1989-90. Although it is small, this one is not easy to build. Getting the wings right is a true challenge and the nose wheel and exhaust are almost impossible to glue in the right place, However, since there are pretty few parts the model is a fairly quick build after all. It needs extremely much noseweight, I filled every hole in the nose section, and still it was extremely close to become a tail-sitter! Shapes looks spot on to me. The only thing I have noticed is the part in front of the stabilizers which is a few millimetres too long and the air outlet which the instructions tells you to place in wrong position. Painted with Gunze and Tamiya Acrylics (based on Gunze H78 Olive Drab and Tamiya Sea Blue). A few details: Decals are - as always with Tarangus - excellent. So apart from a few challenges, this kit is highly recommended!
  8. Source: https://www.facebook.com/tarangus UPDATE on October 5th, 2015: 1/48 - Scottish Aviation Bulldog (SwAF Sk 61) 1/72 - Saab J32B/E Lansen http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991462-172-saab-j32be-lansen-by-tarangus-box-art-release-1q-2016/ V.P.
  9. Bulldog T.1 & Sk.61 Bulldog (48005 & 48006) 1:48 Tarangus The Bulldog was originally designed by Beagle Aircraft, who sadly went bust before they could honour any orders for this two seat prop-driven trainer, the first being from the Swedes. A new concern, Scottish Aviation took over and brought the Bulldog to market where it was used most notably by the RAF and Swedish Air Force, but by other countries too. There were several models made, many of which were designed for the export market, with the RAF using the 121 as the T.1, while the 101 was for Sweden, where it was designated Sk 61 in the Air Force, or Fpl 61 in army use. The Swedish aircraft differed mainly due to the additional two seats in the rear of the crew compartment, behind the pilots who sat two abreast, with a wide expanse of Perspex giving excellent forward visibility over a short nose. The last RAF airframes left service just after the new millennium, and many have gone into private hands from all variants across the world. The now familiar Grob Tutor replaced the Bulldog as the entry-level trainer with the RAF and continues to serve today. The Kits A new tooling from Tarangus, this is a welcome addition to builders in 1:48 scale who have been poorly served in the past, with only a resin kit released a few years ago. There are two boxings initially, and as you would expect, the RAF version is one and the Swedish version the other. The RAF decal sheet does include some decals for other operators however, and there is bound to be an aftermarket sheet available soon to fill in any gaps. Tarangus' models are predominantly short to medium run, so do not expect the latest innovations in injection moulding, and be aware that some modelling skills will be required to make the best of your purchase. They make no secret of that, and as they are consistently designing kits that might otherwise not see the light of day due to the massive investment required, that's likely to continue to be the case. Their moulds are made by Special Hobby if I recall, so you know that the quality is going to be good, and they work hard to make the kits accurate, as they have a genuine love for their chosen subject matter. Inside the small end-opening box is a large ziplok bag containing one sprue, a fuselage half that has been cut off the sprue to fit the box, and a spruelet containing a number of small parts, all in the same mid grey styrene, which has a semi-matt surface finish that should take primer well. There is very little flash evident, which shouldn't slow you down if you are going to clean up the mould seams anyway. The decals are separately bagged with the instructions that includes a single sheet of painting and decaling instructions in colour on one side, showing the aircraft from one side, above and below. The clear parts are also in their own ziplok bag, and I was disappointed that the canopy has been moulded as a single part. I would wager that either a resin or vacformed canopy will be available in due course for those a little wary of cutting their styrene one in half. The build begins with the instruments and coaming, and you'll need to either paint the instruments or avail yourself of the excellent AirScale instruments and check your references for placement hints. The "door cards" for the cockpit sides look exactly like that, and these fit into the fuselage sides along with the rear windows, so you'll need to paint the interior before you close up the halves. The cockpit is based on the floor panel, which has a raised centre console, two blocks to place the seats on, and a raked rear bulkhead. The centre console has a little sink mark in the centre, but it's not obscuring details, so is easy to fix. At the front are the twin control columns and rudder pedals, the former fitting on a little raised block, while the latter fits onto the top of the centre console. The cockpit sits in the fuselage floor, and a simple bulkhead rests against a raised line forward of this with a pair of attachment points for the nose gear leg. A simple representation of the engine front and the flat round piece and shaft for the prop fit to the grille at the front, with the coaming sitting on top of the forward edge of the cockpit aperture once the fuselage is in place. As previously mentioned the canopy is supplied in one part, and don't be tempted to make the canopy side rails flush to the fuselage though, as these are supposed to hang over the edge of the fuselage as per the original. Also, don't forget the limited run nature of the kit means that there aren't any locating pins, which can be a source of problems on occasion anyway, especially if they're out of alignment. With the fuselage complete, the strake on the rear lower fuselage is added, with a small bumper moulded in that protects the aircraft from over-enthusiastic take-offs. The fin is moulded-in, but the rudder is separate, while the elevators are moulded as single parts, and these butt-fit to flats on the fuselage, so you may consider adding some plastic or brass pegs and holes to ensure a strong join and good fit. A couple of blade antennae & such are added to the upper fuselage, and then the wings are built up from upper and lower halves, the upper section containing both sides of the trailing edge to keep it slim. A twin lamp fitting slides into the wing front, and a clear cover is added along with a clear lens for the wingtip lights, which is nice to see on a short-run kit. The wings have small tabs to secure them in place, but keep them at the correct dihedral while the glue sets. Flipping the model over, a pair of exhausts attached to a shaped block are inserted into the rear of the chin intake, and you might want to drill out the tips if you feel they'll be seen. The front of the intake is then covered with a baffle, which the instructions incorrectly show you applying across the front of the engine. You don't wanna do that… The two blades of the prop fit into the back of the boss, where you'll have to ensure they're correctly aligned, as the parts aren't keyed. The spinner cap hides the assembly's working, and is then glued onto the shaft projecting from the front of the fuselage. The nose gear is a single strut with a separate scissor link and tyre, which is slipped into the fuselage to latch onto the two locating cups on the bulkhead inside. The main gear is similarly fixed, and the attachment of the legs is achieved via a butt-fit with the positions marked in fine lines on the underside of the fuselage. The wheels fit onto pegs and then you need to add a bunch of aileron and flap actuator housings along the full length of the wing, plus the remainder of the exhausts, antennae and lights. That's it! You're done. Now get the paint out. Markings One boxing gives you the option of British and other nations, the other Swedish markings, including that gorgeous (and complex) splinter scheme. The Swedish kit has three options from their forces. You get four options in the RAF boxing, with only two of them being RAF. From the box you can build one of the following: Bulldog T.1 XX621 Yorkshire University Air Squadron XX537 RAF East Lowlands Universities Air Squadron AS0023 Air Wing of the Armed Forced of Malta 701 Kenyan Air Force Swedish Sk61 Sk61A 61011 - F5 Ljungbyhed in original two-tone camo Sk61A 61025 – F5 Ljungbyhed in post 1989 RAL livery Fpl 61C 61061 Displayed at F11 museum in Nyköping The profiles are 2.5 view, with one for each option from the side, from which we can assume they are symmetrical, and a 50/50 top/bottom view for each option. The decals are printed on vibrant blue glossy paper that is reminiscent of Eduard's recent output, and are of reasonable quality. There is a little bleeding of the black here and there, but it is only really visible on close inspection, however on our sample the red had been printed slightly out of register, which means the RAF roundels look odd. However, if your sheet is similarly affected they're easy enough to get hold of from spares or aftermarket. The watchword is check your sheet when you get them, and make the necessary enquiries promptly if there's a problem and you don't have spares. The Swedish decals are nicely done and suffer no registration problems that I could detect, although a couple of miniscule white flecks do show up in the blue of the roundels. Conclusion It's great to finally have an injection moulded kit of the Bulldog in this scale, and even if you're not used to short to medium run productions, I don't think it should put you off unless you are an absolute novice. Take care with the fuselage and tail alignment due to the lack of alignment pins, and it should build pretty easily, as long as you take your time and test fit everything, which to be honest is what we should all be doing all the time. I'd have liked a 2-part canopy, but then I prefer to pose mine open and I know a lot of folks that don't. Overall, well recommended. RAF & Foreign Operator Bulldoig T.1 (48005) Swedish Sk61 Bulldog (48006) Review sample courtesy of
  10. SAAB J32B/E Lansen - 1:72 Tarangus

    SAAB J32B/E Lansen 1:72 Tarangus Following WWII Sweden was looking for a new Strike aircraft to replace their ageing prop driven aircraft. An ambitious requirement was issued, and Saab came up with the Lansen, a large streamlined dual-seat, single engine aircraft with swept wings and tail, powered by a licence built Rolls Royce Avon. Much is made over its visual similarity to the Lockheed Shooting Star, and even to an abandoned Messerschmitt project, the P1110. Although this is just a result of the prevailing aerodynamic research of the time, it doesn't stop the speculation! The Lansen project resulted in a well-liked and reliable aircraft that served on the front line from 1955 to the late 70s, and in second line service into the 90s. It was capable of carrying the new (at the time) anti-shipping missiles, as well as the A model having an armament of four Bofors 20mm cannon, mounted behind retractable doors in the nose. It could also carry unguided rocket pods and license produced Sidewinders for A2A combat. The B version would upgrade to a hefty 4 x 30mm ADEN cannon. Later on in it's service life four B airframes were modified to ECM training aircraft with the J23E designation. Two airframes were kept airworthy by the Swedish Radiation Safety Authority until 2010, sampling radiation in the upper atmosphere. The Kit The kit is The first ever kit of the fighter version of the Saab Lansen, aka Lansen Sport, in 1/72 scale. The kit is typical of a short run kit, the plastic has fine engraved panel lines (a bit too fine at times), there are larger then normal sprue gates and injector pin marks. The review copy has a slightly short shot burner can. The clear sprue is a little thick but not overly so and is clear. Construction start with the cockpit. The tub is not one part but the front and rear are built separately and joined. The front wheel well is fist built up under the front cockpit as the cockpit floor forms the roof of the gear bay. The two sides are added along with the front and rear bulkheads. This can then be flipped over and the control column and instrument panel are added. The rear cockpit has the instrument panel and rear bulkhead added. The two are then joined together. The ejection seats can then be made up and added. Each seat has the main seat part, rails, and head shields to add. Next for each fuselage side the engine intakes are added, then the main gear wells can be added, along with the 4 part exhaust. Once these are all in main fuselage can be closed up. The coaming is then added in front of the cockpits and the glass partition between the cockpits is also added. A prominent blade antenna is added on the nose. Moving toward the rear another blade antenna and four cooling scoops are added. Next to go on are the tail planes and vertical fin. It is good the fin is one part and separate from the fuselage halves as they have been able to control the thickness better. Next up are the main wings. These are of a conventional two part upper and single part lower wings. A prominent blade antenna is added to each wing along with a wing fence. The fence is quite thick in plastic and would benefit from a PE replacement, as would the antenna. The pitot probe is added to the right wing. The wing can then be joined to the fuselage and the ventral fuel tank added. The undercarriage is then added. A single nose wheel assembly complete with wheel is added along with the two front gear doors. The twin landing lights are added to the front of the gear well. The main gear is two part wheels which attach to their own leg. The outer main gear doors then attach to the leg. The inners to the fuselage. There is a retraction strut to add to the main gear leg. The last things to add are the pylons and weapons if you want to use them. Two generic sidewinders are included but are not too detailded. Last item on is the single part canopy. Decals Decals are provided for 4 aircraft. There is no mention of the decal maker on the sheet. 32532, J 32B, F12 From Kalmar wing 1968. Marked with orange squares. Possible use of smaller insignia on the wings. 32536, J 32B, F1 From Hasslo/Vasteras Wing. 32615, J 32B, F15 From Froson/Osterung Wing 1970s. Use of orange square markings which were later removed left unbleached squares on the paint. 32507, J32E, F16-01, From Uppsala Wing, jamming aircraft 1996. Conclusion While it is good to see this type of limited use aircraft available to the 1.72 modeller this is not a mainstream kit and care will be needed in its construction. Tarangus are to be thanked for releasing this in 1/72. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. After the 1/48th model ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234911361-saab-a32a-lansen/ ) Tarangus is to release a 1/72nd Saab J32B/E Lansen kit - ref.TA7202 Source: http://www.tarangus.se/2015/11/05/tarangus-to-release-saab-j32be-lansen-in-172-and-scottish-aviation-bulldog-sk-61-in-148/ Box art V.P.
  12. Surprise. As the Viggen is still "in the works" Tarangus has planned the release of the Saab 91B/C/D Safir Trainer in late June. Markings are included for a Swedish, Finnish and Ethiopean Safir - ref. TA4804. Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/saab-91bcd-safir-expected-july-2014-ta4804-tarangus-models-ta4804-netherlands-military/product/?shopid=LM536f1348899c8644a177ff7c58&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=121632 V.P.
  13. Saab JA37 Viggen 1:48

    Saab JA37 Viggen 1:48 Tarangus The Viggen is a rugged fighter/interceptor that was designed to fulfil a need during the deep Cold War to defend Swedish airspace in the event of an incursion by the Soviet Bloc, and to continue the fight from hidden bases near roadways, which the aircraft could use as makeshift landing strips. It was to replace both the Lansen and Draken, and did so extremely well, endearing itself to aviation enthusiasts as it did so due to its unusual double-delta/canard configuration. It was fitted with a single license built P&W JT8D with an afterburner to give it the performance needed to propel this large aircraft fast enough to accomplish short take-offs. Short landings were made possible by the inclusion of a large set of thrust reversing petals that dropped into the exhaust and expelled the gases forward out of slots in the side of the fuselage. The initial AJ37 variant was declared operational in 1972, and required the addition of a trainer variant, dubbed the SK37, which had an additional cockpit placed high above the original, displacing some fuel tankage in the process. The final JA37 variant was brought into service in 1980 with new computer systems, improved radar and engine, as well as other systems and the strength of the airframe, which already utilised titanium to reduce weight. The last of the Viggens (Thunderbolt) were retired in 2005, replaced by the impressive JAS39 Gripen (Griffon). A number of Viggens are on display in museums – notably Newark in the UK, but the Swedes have retained one in flying condition that can sometimes be seen at British airshows along with a Draken, Lansen and even the Tunnan. If only every country was conscientious in preservation of its aviation history. The Kit Anyone that has even a passing interest in the Viggen has probably been aware of the gestation of the Tarangus kit, and it is now almost a year since it was originally scheduled to be launched. This stemmed from the fact that Max and Fredrik wanted to do the Viggen full justice, so the initial short/medium run kit format was dropped in favour of a more durable mainstream moulding that would also provide much better detail out of the box. It worked. There is GOOD detail, and plenty of it. Opening the yellow and blue box, you're greeted by a lot of nicely tooled plastic, with a total of eight sprues in mid grey styrene, one of glass-like clear parts, and a set of decals on a long narrow sheet. The instruction booklet is around A5 in size, is printed in black & greyshades, with good clear diagrams and plenty of assistance notes. The final item in the box is a full-colour glossy painting and marking guide, with a double A4 spread showing stencils, and another the national markings. Initial impressions are super, and had this Viggen loving reviewer smiling as I perused the sprues on the Tarangus booth at Telford. Once home, I could study them some more, and all of the shortcomings of the Airfix/Esci kit seem to have been addressed in spades, with crisp engraved panel lines, single-piece intake fronts with slim lips, backed by full-length trunking. The rear of the engine is also depicted, replete with the big thrust-reverser petals that can be posed individually. The gear bays are detailed, and the fuselage doesn't suffer from the paunch of the old Airfix kit. Clever breakdown of the fuselage has resulted in some nice detail, as well as a sensible and straight-forward build process that should suit most modellers unless they add any of the aftermarket that is bound to come flooding out from Maestro and others. Construction begins with the front fuselage, and the cockpit in particular. The ejection seat, which is a Raketstol 37, is made from two parts for the outer shell, and has the head-cushion moulded in, so you will need to deal with the seam there before you install the single piece cushion in the lower half and the head-box top above it. The rocket-tube and lateral supports are inserted in the hollow back of the chair, but if you plan on adding some seatbelts, you will need to make your own if you're building it now, or wait until some are forthcoming from the likes of Eduard. The cockpit tub is one piece with integrated side consoled that have raised detail moulded in, to which you add the rudder pedals, control column and the main instrument panel. The panel has what looks like an MFD in the middle, but it was in fact an old-fashioned CRT screen, which was quite advanced at the time in an aircraft. There are no decals for the panel, so check your references and paint it accordingly. Another two small levers are added to the right side console to finish off the cockpit nicely. The front fuselage is split horizontally, and has moulded-in recesses into which the sidewall detail parts are placed before the cockpit tub is added from below. Before the front fuselage can be closed up however, the intake trunking must be built up. The two trunks are moulded together and split top and bottom to ensure correct line-up, being held apart with bracing struts and outer flanges that hold them neatly within the fuselage. A bulkhead with twin oval openings covers the rear end, and a small circular(ish) length of the outer skin of the fuselage fits behind that. Why? One Viggen variant is slightly longer than the rest, and it would seem that Tarangus have tooled the kit with this in mind. The huge fan of Volvo RM8 engine is glued behind this section, although it would probably need an endoscopic camera to see it clearly! The well detailed nose gear bay is added, a front bulkhead to close off the nose behind the radome is installed over the front of that, and the intakes can be dropped in after drilling out the holes for the belly pylons fitted later. The upper fuselage with the spine moulded in is then sat on top and glued in place, at which point you will need to ensure a good fit between the two halves as well as the fuselage ring that you added earlier to the intake assembly. The rear fuselage splits vertically to allow a realistic rendition of the area-rule curving fuselage that surrounds the Volvo motor. In order to join the halves, you need to build the engine's rear, which is made from just two parts, but has superb detail incorporated. The main part is a wide tube with the rear engine face and afterburner ring moulded-in with stunning sharpness, plus ribbing along the length of the exhaust, and fluted edges that are commendably thin. The reverser section is added next, which is again a single part that mates with the lip in three points, leaving three large gaps for the reversed engine gases to exit. The thrust-reversing petals are each separate, and can be posed either fully open for normal running, closed for "reversing", or with the bottom two open and the top one drooping down due to the bleed-off of hydraulic pressure following engine shut-down. The latter will be the most normally seen on a parked aircraft, but you at least have options now! The tail cone fits over the petals, and the completed (and painted) assembly is trapped between the aft fuselage halves, and then mated with the forward half. Most of the upper join will be hidden by the spine of the front fuselage, which is always a boon to the modeller. Work then moves to the large cranked "double-delta" wings, starting with adding the well detailed shallow main gear bays to the single piece lower wing. A few holes are drilled for additional flap-actuator fairings (IIRC, this additional actuator wasn't present on early variants), and fuselage then the two upper wing halves are added, butting up against each other. Plenty of test fitting should ensure the best joint, but don't forget that wing-fairings are often not the best fitting, so check your references, and if it looks right, leave the lid on the putty. The flying surfaces are moulded integrally, so other than adding the aforementioned flap fairings and a pair of small wingtip lights on each wing, that's them done. At the front end of the fuselage, your Viggen will be looking a little blunt until you add the two part nose cone, which is split vertically, and the engine intakes, which have been cleverly designed to take up only one part each. As mentioned earlier, these are slim and delicate, but if you want to achieve better scale accuracy, you might consider slimming the lips down a little more, such are the limits of styrene injection moulding. The small aerodynamic bracing struts that fit between the inner edge of the intake and the fuselage are separate parts, and are shown in both the installed position and as part of the exploded construction diagram to assist with correct placement. A scrap diagram from the front would have helped further, but instead check your references, as there are plenty of head-on pics out there. The two canards are installed later on a pair of attachment lugs, and each one is a single piece, with moulded-in flaps and a single vortex generator on the top of the winglet. I would have preferred the flaps separate, as the aircraft looks good with them down, and they often taxi in with them down after using them to improve lift on landings, as well as on take-off. The big vertical fin is separate, and has an insert on the port spine to cater for other earlier variants down the line. Various auxiliary intakes and exhausts are added down the fuselage and spine into recesses, and the small T-shaped air-brakes are added forward of the reverser outlets on each side, with another two under the fuselage. There doesn't seem to be any provision for deploying them, as there are no actuators provided, and the bays into which they fit are devoid of detail. It's not a major issue however, as they tend to be closed up for the most part. The gear bays have been nicely detailed from the box, and with the addition of the landing gear should suffice for most modellers' needs. The nose gear leg fits into a recess in the rear of the bay, and has a separate strut and oleo-scissor link. The bay doors each have hinge-points and a separate retractor link, and there are two clear landing light parts added inside the bay, angled slightly down. The main gear bays are each single parts, but have been detailed sufficiently with moulded-in shapes to give a good impression. The big main doors are usually closed on the ground anyway, so most of it will be hidden. The Viggen was unusual in having a pair of inline wheels on a horizontal leg, which rotated around the end of the main leg, offering better rough-field performance. This has been replicated faithfully using eleven parts for each leg and its retraction mechanism, plus another two for the stub-axles that hold the two-part wheels in place. The wheels are nice, but they're not the strongest part of the kit, and could bear replacing with some aftermarket if they come around. The same could be said of the twin nose-wheels, which are each single parts, but all would be improved by the addition of a flat-spot to simulate the aircraft's weight, so if you're keeping them, get your sanding sticks out. The outer bay doors are captive to the gear leg, and have hinge points to give them a good chance of remaining in place during handling or travel to shows. Under the fuselage are the two belly pylons that were drilled holes for earlier, and a large combined "hump" that integrates a centreline pylon with the gun pack that contains an Oerlikon cannon and 150 rounds of ammunition. This also partially surrounds a ventral strake, and a large fuel tank is supplied to sit on the pylon, because all fighters are always short of fuel. The tank is made of two halves split vertically, and has four separate stabilising fins that fit into slots in the body. Sadly for anyone wishing to load up their Viggen from the box contents, there are no weapons available in the kit, but as she was capable of carrying AIM-120s, AIM-9 Sidewinders and Skyflash, there are plenty of options already available in aftermarket. I'm sure that some indigenous options will be forthcoming in due course too. The last act involves the canopy, which can be posed open or closed using the same two parts. The windscreen will need fairing in for a little extra realism, and the canopy can be fitted open or closed by inserting the hinge tabs in at the appropriate angle. A clear HUD glass is also provided for the coaming, which is incidentally moulded into the fuselage halves, so will need the seam hiding before you paint. Markings There are three options in the box, and each represents one of the major schemes that the JA37 Viggen wore during its career. From the box you can build one of the following: 37351 F-17 Wing - All over bare metal/silver, with red 39 on the tail & black radome. 37378 F-4 Wing - Black/dark green/green/brown splinter pattern with red 38 on the wings and tail. 37449 F-16 Wing - Medium grey with light grey undersides and nose, wearing either a red 49 or an operational black alternative. The schemes aren't cross-referenced to any paint system on the sheet, but on the inside cover of the instructions you will find call-outs in Gunze-Sangyo codes with their names under a heading for each scheme. There are soon to be some pics of the example at Newark appearing in the Walkaround section, so check back when you can. Decals are well printed, with good registration, colour density and sharpness, and include the dielectric panel on the side as well as a large number of stencils that are references on the centre double spread of the painting guide. Even the pylons are festooned with stencils, and you get a set of slime-lights to add to your model. Conclusion Speaking personally, I couldn't be happier that we now have a new tooling of the Viggen in 1:48, and am glad they took the quality route and made us wait. Objectively, it's a great kit, and well worth the delay while they converted to a more durable tooling with better detail. We could have asked for some cockpit decals, a couple of weapons and such, but that seems somewhat churlish when we consider that this is a relatively new company making inroads into Swedish aviation history. I promised a member to give him some dimensions, and with a length of 16.4m, we're looking at a length of 34cm, wingspan is 10.6m, which scales down to 22cm give or take. Not a small aircraft by any means! I understand that it will be priced around £60 when released, which might put a few off, but when you consider the price of a well-known Japanese company's F-18s in the same scale, with a huge market, this starts to look like even better value. Tarangus are a brave company and deserve our support to continue giving us relatively left-field subject matter. Do your part by consigning your old Airfix kits to the back of the stash, and relish the work and/or aftermarket you'll save by buying a Tarangus Viggen. Available soon from all good model shops. Extremely highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Our friends at Ultimate are at it again! Not content with producing the best thinners and airbrush cleaner for just about every brand of acrylic paint in our modelling universe, some really cool sanders, they've now decided to start offering model kits for the discerning buyer. Not your mainstream run-of-the-mill kits you can find everywhere, but more left-of-field that you might not see very often. They've started with Tarangus (see their announcement here), and will be broadening the range as time goes by. They've also got something new to bring to the market this quarter, and Lee is being very cloak-and-dagger about it, so I can't wait to see what it is! Meantime, you can check out their competitive pricing of Tarangus and everything else by clicking their logo below
  15. Hi Here are some pictures of my recently completed model of Tarangus 1/48 J 32B Lansen nicknamed Lansen Sport. I've used every aftermarket item available from Maestro Models for the Lansen and quite a bit of scratchbuilding, mainly in the wheel wells, landing gears and cockpit plus a full length engine intake. The Tarangus kit requires a bit of TLC but can be made into a real good looking model IMHO. a full wip can be found here (in swedish) http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3276 More pictures can be found here: http://s836.photobucket.com/user/flarpen/slideshow/Sport%20Lansen/Finished best regards Johan Elvin
  16. This is my latest completion - SAAB J29B Tunnan assembled from new Tarangus kit OOB decals represent aircraft from F.8 Wing at Barkarby near Stockholm somewhere in mid-50s Kit is quite nice overall - but be patient to align wings, stabiliser, and particularly resin wheel bays. My additions included resin wheels from Aires, metal pitot tubes, some improvements in cockpit - seat harness, port side wall inside the cabin. I also replaced original exhaust pipe (a veeery basic!) with a plastic ring+resin nozzle for MiG-15. I cut the rear part of MiG-15's nozzle with turbine blades and attached it to plastic ring. Tunnans were not painted which resulted in various shades of panels as can be judged from photos. I tried to reflect this effect by painting my Tunnan with 5 various shades of aluminium. Enjoy the photos
  17. Saab 91 Safir B/C/D 1:48

    Saab 91 Safir B/C/D 1:48 Tarangus The Safir debuted following the end of WWII, and was a successful trainer used by many of the Nordic countries to train pilots. Initially fitted with a de Havilland engine, later models were equipped with four or six cylindered Lycoming engines developing between 180-190hp. Built in Sweden and the Netherlands, over 300 airframes were completed, with an additional seat added to the C and D variants to increase crew compliment to four. Once retired from service with their initial military users, many continued to be used either privately, or in the service of a number of civilian airlines. They can still be seen flying today in military or civilian liveries, and could be compared to the Bücker Bü 181, which was also designed by AJ Andersson, or the British Chipmunk, with which it shares some features. The Kit A new release from Tarangus, the Safir (Sapphire) has never been kitted before in this scale, so if you've been wanting to build one, now's your chance! The kit arrives in and end-opening box with a photo of a real Safir in Swedish trainer livery, and inside is one sprue of parts, plus two spruelets containing the fuselage halves, and a small clear sprue, which is bagged separately for safety. The decal sheet is large for the size of the kit, and the final item in the box is an A5 instruction booklet. The plastic and instructions are of the same style used by MPM, so my guess is that they or someone similar were involved in tooling the sprues. This is a limited edition model, and although it could be construed as short-run, it is of high quality, so you could say "medium-run" instead. The tooling is neat, detail is more than adequate, sprue gates are small and sensibly placed, as are the ejector pin marks, while only one small sink-mark on the outside of the cockpit wall can be seen on first inspection, which is most easily rectified before construction starts. Construction starts with the instrument panel, which had plenty of raised detail under a coaming, with separate rudder pedals glued to the back of the panel. The engine is next, and this is only included to give an indication of content once the cowling is on, so it's not really worth doing anything about the 6-cylinder block that is moulded in relief to the lower bulkhead if you are building the 4-cylinder D model, as nothing will be seen. The reduction bell-housing and radiator front are installed at the front, and then it is put to one side while the cockpit floor is built up with gear bay details on the underside, before it is flipped over to have 3 or 4 seats added. The two pilot seats have sticks each, while the rear seats are moulded as a two-part bench-seat with separate cushions, the narrow one on the left being cut off for the earlier B model which had three seats. The rear bulkhead is blank for the B, while the C and D have a curved cut-out behind the seats, which was presumably used for stowage. You'll need to black out your fuselage interior to prevent a see-through effect, or you could check your references and build what's behind if you're feeling brave. With that, the fuselage can be closed up around the cockpit engine and instrument panel, with the lip of the cowling being a separate part to give a good edge and prevent any stepped seams. Once you've cleaned up the seams on the fuselage, the wings are added, with a single lower and two upper halves, to which the ailerons and landing lights are added. The fuselage drops into the gap, and hopefully the fit will be good without much in the way of fettling. Test fitting is essential, and any gap could be reduced by the use of rod to spread the fuselage, or by adding thin shims to the wing root before installation. The big canopy is supplied as a single part, to which a small central frame is added running fore to aft. An optional aerial is added on top, and a small bump is added to the fuselage rear of the canopy if you are building a Finnish airframe. You also have a choice of props with and without spinner, the former again being for a Finnish example. Tail planes are single parts that are added to their roots with the usual slot and tab, with an angle of 90o recommended by the instructions. A simple tail skid prevents damage to the rear of the aircraft in the event of an over-enthusiastic pupil bouncing on take-off or landing. A choice of trimmings under the engine cowling are supplied with the Finnish aircraft having shrouds around the exhaust stacks and an extra bracing strut behind the single part nose-wheel. The nose-wheel has a mud-guard moulded in, which might upset some, but with careful painting and a shadow lined in between tyre and guard, most people won't even notice! The main wheels are moulded in halves with their hubs integral, and once glued together they are added to the main gear legs, which are both single parts with moulded in oleo-scissor links. Markings Colour depictions of the three decal options are given on the back of the box, while stencils are shown on the rear page of the instruction booklet in black and white. From the box you can build one of the following options: Swedish 91B No.25 S/no. 50025 – F5 wing, Ljungbyhed – all over yellow with olive drab glare panel and step on wing root. Ethiopian Airforce 91C No.132 S/No. 91385 – all over silver with black glare panel. Finnish Airforce 91D SF-24 Soumen Ilmavoimat – All over silver with fluorescent orange lower cowling, fin and wing tip leading edges, and black glare panel. Decals are nicely printed with good colour density, register and crispness, although the black is a little variable in places, with minor tiny bleeding and smears in places that are mainly visible under magnification. The carrier film is satin finish and cropped very close to each decal, so shouldn't cause any issue once overpainted with some clear gloss. Given the concentric circles evident on two of the decal options, there doesn't appear to be any offsetting on my copy, and the Finnish roundels are as good as they could be. Conclusion Tarangus continue to give us unusual kits of subjects often overlooked by other manufacturers, and are remaining true to their local aircraft manufacturer with this release. It is a nice looking model, and should build up well with few in the ways of issues that I can see from looking at it in the box, and until everyone has one, is something unusual for your cabinet or show table. Highly recommended. Available soon from all good model shops. Review sample courtesy of
  18. New Tarangus 1/48 JA 37 Viggen

    At my LHS today I was shown testshots of the new Tarangus 1/48 JA 37 Viggen. All I can say is WOW! To all of you waiting for this kit, you're in for a treat!
  19. Source: http://www.tarangus.se/ V.P.
  20. Hi Guys, well after 7 months she's finally finished. There was a bit of a break in the middle of the build for some other models, as I wanted to make sure I was working on this model with a full cup of interest. Lots of added details, most if whihc you cant really see now. but thats half the fun. The model represents Lansen 32194 Blue 'Ivar' (thats Swedish phonetic for "I") of F6 wing, Karlsborg, 1964, and the squadron shields were added by me - as they are too nice to not have on! Theres a build thread here Jonners Lansen Build Anyhow- onto the pics. Hope you like her! Jonners
  21. Let's start by pointing out the obvious. For the past 20 years or so, I haven't exactly been a modell builder, but rather a collector. I have started on several kits, but haven't finished anything. So this group build was a God's send! Now I have to build some kits from the stash and finish them as well!! The idea is to build the new Lansens in 1/48 scale from Tarangus. I'll do both the attack and fighter version at the same time. Hopefully I will be able to split the mistakes I will make between the two kits.. I'm sorry for the poor image quality. I'm using my Iphone as I have managed to break TWO DSLRs this year!! So, first up are some sprue pictures! First the sprue for the fuselage of the fighter version! Then we have the attack version! The remainder of the sprues are common (I think..) I will see if this ejector mark disappears under the spar which is on top or if I have to do something about it.. For the A32A I will use photo etch for the cockpit. For the J32 I think I'll use the decals provided. At least at first.. Resin for the fighter version! Different seats compared to the attack aircraft! And the photo etch.. And finally, the decals!! First for the fighter! And then the attacker! Now, I just need to clear my work space and pray that the kids will stay asleep when daddy turns on the compressor and starts using the airbrush...
  22. SAAB J32B Lansen available!

    Just saw that the Lansen fighter version seems to be available! http://www.rebell.com/nyheter/saab-a32a-lansen.html Great news! exdraken
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