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Found 3 results

  1. AMMO Black Cyanoacrylate Slow Dry (A.MIG-9034) & Activator (A.MIG-8037) AMMO of Mig Jiménez Cyanoacrylate, Super Glue, Crazy Glue or CA for short, its origins were as a suture-free solution to closing small wounds, although the stuff we use now isn’t medical grade and is usually made mainly from Methyl CA, which is low-grade toxic, so don’t be tempted to use it next time you cut your finger with a scalpel you might not feel any ill effects, but it's not recommended. Modellers have been using CA for a long time now for attaching disparate materials, gluing things that really don’t want to be glued, and for almost instant joins. It is normally clear, but it can be coloured with pigments, and it is available in various viscosities that are useful for different tasks at the workbench. Black Slow Dry CA (A.MIG-9034) Arriving in a 21ml bottle with elongated cap covering the typically long applicator, this glue has been pigmented black, and if you look closely you can see tiny particles suspended in the original clear glue. The cap screws off, the applicator is already exposed and ready to use, and has a chamfered inner lip to reduce the likelihood of blockage. Around the base of the applicator is a recessed ring that the cap fits into, and also captures any dribbles of excess glue rather then letting them stick your bottle to the desk. I decanted a little into an old Pringles lid for use, and applied some to a clear sprue that I had cut to repair it. In small quantities the glue appears more smoky than black, but it has enough contrast with lighter surfaces to show up when you’re using it. It lives up to its slow drying moniker, which is intended to give the modeller time to position parts properly before it begins to cure properly. This can be accelerated by using the next item below. Activator for Cyanoacrylate (A.MIG-8037) Super Glue isn’t always as instant as the adverts would have us believe, and that can extend to minutes if you are using a slow dry glue as above. If you’re in a hurry or want to freeze your parts in place once you’ve positioned them correctly, an accelerator is the way to go. The glass bottle contains 20ml of activator and comes with a screw-off cap that has a captive brush on a long shaft for you to flood a little activator around your glued-up joint. You also get a separate screw-on cap with pump spritzer for when you don’t want to touch the glued area. When you apply the stuff it causes the glue to spread as its surface tension is reduced. It then skins over and goes quite hard quickly, taking a little time if you’ve got a big puddle like my test piece. CA that has been activated is often more brittle than naturally cured CA, so bear that in mind if you’re gluing something structural. You also need to remember that some plastics are affected by activators, and in my experience that applies especially to the type of styrene used in vacform models. It seems to denature it and cause crazing, so use it sparingly on plastics just in case. Conclusion Super Glue is a great tool for the modeller, and if it’s coloured it’s easy to see once you’ve applied it. The activator is very useful when it comes to fixing a part in place immediately, rather than waiting for the natural curing process to take place. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Hi All, PLEASE can any of you help me with 'a problem' that's driving me to distraction, I buy a certain brand of super glue and super glue gel and after a couple of uses the product inside the small plastic bottle seems to dry up and I can't use the product again, yes I do clean the nozzle and brush provided and make sure I have done the caps up, any advice appreciated. Thank you, Colin.
  3. Hello I am building a model with an pretty strong spring in it, and I am extremely disappointed with Plastic Fusion ! (from Super Glue corp) On the upside, my Plasticard / HIPS styrene is mechanically stronger that I thought it would be an is fine. Bonding using EMA Plastic Weld cement is okay, but not brilliant. The problem I have is that any joint is nothing like as strong as the virgin material and thing can always be snapped off again at the original join. BUT after the rave review in this video by CustomsByZ ("Tutorial: The Basics of Working With Styrene" on YouTube)... I am extremely disappointed with Plastic Fusion from Super Glue corp! Even waiting a full 24 hour later the joint is just too weak. I have tried thee times now. - Yes I am mixing it up very thoroughly. - Yes I am doing so at a reasonable temperature (19deg) - Yes I am mixing it on card and using a the wooden spatula provided - Yes I am being careful and think I am getting the proportions about right - Yes I am working with clean (freshly filed) surfaces. However the resulting bond is little better than EMA Plastic Weld solvent - which is particularly irritating after all that time spent mixing the glue. Moreover and the setting time is also longer than expected. It says sets in "5-10 minutes" but that's a massive exaggeration, as in 10 minutes it's still pretty gooey and sticky. After 25 minutes it's pretty much a solid, although even after an hour I can still sink a fingernail into it. But either way it never, EVER gets as strong as solid the styrene itself! Not even close. Although I don't expect them to be as strong as an epoxy resin, I have now order some Tamiya Extra Thin cement and some Mr Cement S to see if either create something stronger than EMA Plastic Weld. Background I am layering up my 1mm Plasticard sheets using EMA Plastic Weld produce solids of 3-4mm and I am then joining those solids together at 90 degrees. To get clear, I am looking for joints of high mechanical strength, in order to resist the springs I am working with. The base styrene is strong enough for my purposes, although I had ordered up some ABS in case it wasn't. But I am now concerned that it's harder to glue ABS than styrene so that may prove to be a mistake. Of course what is so nice is that some sort of bond happens in c.10 seconds, but anyone know how long I should give the styrene to dry in order to achieve say 95% of maximum strength? Back to epoxies, I don't mind mixing up epoxy glues for say 30 seconds, even 1 minute (if I have to), but I do mind waiting for much longer than say 2 hours or so. Waiting for glues to dry is a serious problem for me as it interferes with the prototyping process itself. - What is the strongest glue for styrene that also sets fast - i.e. within 2 to 4 hours? Many thanks P.S. I am now wondering if maybe I have a bad batch of Plastic Fusion. What was worrying is that the very first thing to come out of one of the tubes was a transparent oily substance. So this may have been the problem with my first attempt. Fwiw, my attempts have all been using about pea-sized volumes of epoxy glue, and the epoxy looks what I assume is 'normal' (not streaked etc). I cant find any expiry date on the packaging... I got it off an eBay merchant "Motorway Hessle LTD" who have a good rating on eBay (99.8% after 71,162 feedbacks) :^( The Plastic Fusion glue I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Glue-Epoxy-10-Minute-Plastic-Fusion-2-Part-Bond-Plastics-Glass-Rubber-/261508621516?
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