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Found 221 results

  1. So I have become a tomcat fanatic recently (1/72) and have decided to embark on an epic saga starting with this load of hobbyboss kits before moving onto some Hasegawa ones. I got these from creative models and mjwmodels over various special offer weeks when they were knocking them out at around £12 a kit. I would like to try to do some lesser seen schemes but pretty limited with decals because most kits and AM sheets come with normally the colourful cag birds etc... The kit that started it all was an ebay bargain revell kit, see here - http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005611-revell-172-f-14b-tomcat-vf-103/ This WIP will hopefully document all of them, most of them concurrently/in pairs, then as they are completed they will have individual RFI threads. I won't document every single thing, as most things will be duplicated (eg the polishing and dipping of several canopy mold seams - i'll just show one) but i will try to highlight any problem areas I encounter or things different to that particular machine. The plan is to try and do at least the following for each variant: - completely 'out of the box' - tweaked with a basic cockpit set and maybe weapon upgrades & AM decals - dressed up with an advanced etch set, resin bits & weapons, AM decals etc. I will also be trying out some different paints on each of the builds, with some of them having the corresponding metallics too. To play with I have collected: - Ak interactive air USN set and their xtreme metal. - Vallejo model air USN set and Vallejo metal color. - Mr color and mr super metallic. - Mr hobby aqueos and mr metal color. -Akan and their metals. -Mr Paint -xtracrylix -Tamiya -mission models and their metals -Hataka red and now the new orange line too. Some of these will be used with alclad metallics too. Also is the revell nato pilot set, one of the builds will have a pair in the cockpit with the nose gear in the squat position, and then maybe one or two may have a figure on the wing walks. And then for fun there is a hasegawa F14 eggplane and a felix mascot. (From Hannants) It says 90mm I guess thats how tall it is when finished? Tamiya 10ml clear for size/scale. So the planned planes are: (unless I discover/purchase some other decal options between now and starting them!) F-14 B's - planes 1, 2 & 3 1: B - V102 - hasegawa decals. bombcat configuration. Pilots in, nose down and nozzles closed getting ready for launch. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235022364-hobbyboss-172-f-14b-tomcat-vf-102-diamondbacks/ 2 - vf101 grim reapers. Tacts Training loadout - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235010536-hobbyboss-172-f14b-tomcat-vf101/ 3 - vf 74 adversary scheme from a hasegawa kit. Mr Paint colours F-14 D's - planes 4, 5 & 6. 4 - OOB vf 31. Plane 101 tomcat sunset. Empty bombcat configuration. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235009559-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf31/ 5 - A VF2 decal option. This build will have a dream model color cockpit etch and some Hasegawa upgrades from my little casting project. 6 - vf 213 101 nose art decals with advanced etch set (interior/exterior) Also Aires resin nose wheel doors for front u/c bay. Bombcat - gbu 24's and lantirn from the Hasegawa sets. Mr color paints - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235012670-hobbyboss-172-f-14d-tomcat-vf213/ F-14 A's - planes 7 onwards. 7 - Vf32 desert storm decals. Standard 4/2/2 missile loadout. Mr hobby paints - COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235018482-172-hobbyboss-f-14a-tomcat-vf32-swordsmen/ 8 - vf 103 sluggers 1983 in gull with tan nose and black anti glare. Mission paints - current build 9 - vf 111 low vis grey - fcm sheet. 4/4 loadout of brassin sparrows and winders. Quickboost pilots. Akan/mr color paints. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235026681-low-visibility-sundowner-172-f-14a-tomcat-hobbyboss-vf-111/# 10 - vf 21 Freelancers 1991 Late A in TPS by Mission models paints. COMPLETED: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235028103-172-hobbyboss-tomcat-vf-21-freelancers-1991/# 11 - vf 14 Tophatters 1993 iron bomb cat. Late A in TPS by Mig Ammo. COMPLETED http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235025164-172-hobbyboss-f-14a-tomcat-vf-14-tophatters-1993/ Phew thats a lot of waffle! During this WIP I will refer to them as planes 1 to number whatever to reduce the amount of confusion/easy reference. If there are any super geeks out there who can spot any faults with the above then feel free to chime in, any help is greatly appreciated. I have done a bit of research but everyday is a school day! I started a couple weeks ago near the start of july so have lots to post already, so over coming weeks so the replies (hopefully) can spur me on as I anticipate I will start getting fed up towards the last couple builds. I have made a start on planes 2,4 & 6 Let the fun commence!
  2. Finished the Corsairs, so let's move on to a couple of Martlets, using these Hobbyboss quickbuilds. Hopefully, shouldn't be too big a challenge as these kits go together really well. A little unrefined but something I can live with. They are fun to build so it should be good, and not too taxing which will be ok as I am a bit busy the next few weeks. Mor later.
  3. Well seeing as my wee F-15E made it to the finish line, I felt adventurous: A nice 1/72 Hasegawa eagle dressed in Aggressor Camo to complement my F-5E from last year. I got the HB as a freebie from a friend whose AMS it had offended and the Hase was a HLJ bargain at under £10 delivered so no big bucks here. A quick peruse of the decal sheet and instructions had me howling with laughter, I was not going through micro modelling again. So plan B, a quick build of the Hokeyboss. So on to the sprues, simple and crude as ever... A little light aftermarket as per my F-5E build should liven things up in the front room: Great camo but not sure about the garish colours, I'll be mixing up my patented Mr El Cheapo paints for this: It should be a nice therapeutic second build, need to make some FOD covers as Hokeybozz simply blank off the intakes and thoughtfully don't provide a the blanking plate for the avionics bay behind the pilot. That said , I'm looking forward to my Blue Eagle! A
  4. HobbyBoss is to release in 2016-2017 1/72nd Northrop P-61 Black Widow kits. - ref.87261 - Northrop P-61A Black Widow - ref.87262 - Northrop P-61B Black Widow - ref.87263 - Northrop P-61C Black Widow Source: http://scalemodels.ru/modules/news/img_9588_1449141963_13.jpg.html V.P.
  5. HobbyBoss next 1/48th "Flanker" is a Sukhoi Su-27UB "Flanker-C" - ref.81713 Release expected in late September 2017 Source: http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=95&l=en Box art V.P.
  6. Hello all, Here is my entry for this GB: Hobbyboss 1/48 Su-30MKK, marked as an MK2 of the Venezuelan Air Force. Kit: Extras: Caracal decals, Master pitot tube, Eduard Brassin OFAB-250 bombs, Wolfpack K-36 ejection seats and Quickboost F-14 FOD covers (modified to fit). This is what i'm going for: https://imgur.com/lcPwxA9 Fully armed: http://www.planobrazil.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Su-30-venezuela-3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/x1jsE8j.jpg Going for, 2x ECM pods on wingtips, 2x R-73, 4x OFAB-250, 2x KH-31, 2x KH-29 and 2x R-77. (the above pictures show R-27s on the intake pylons but these are being replaced with the KH-29s. Looks a nice kit, hopefully it's a bit easier to assemble than the Academy offering. Dave
  7. We have Very Fire Model's latest detail-up set available on pre-order now: USS Alaska CB-1 in 1/350 scale for £185 https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/1-350/products/vf350006-very-fire-model-1-350-uss-alaska-cb-1
  8. Hey Guys, Here's my rendition of the rather nice HobbyBoss Kursk. Nice being used only to describe the detail - construction was horrible! The silos straddling each side of the conning tower were positioned on the basis of a semi-hemispherical notch and that's it. Sounds relatively easy on paper, but in real life it was painful... hence the closed bays! Apart from that the fit of the hull together in two parts was nice and the conning tower was also a nice fit. I found however the instruments such as the ESM, periscope radar etc. were a fiddle as the lack of locating holes problematic in getting the masts to sit straight. So it was a little by eye to be fair, and from this i can only conclude i need an eye test... Painting her in Humbrol 67 'Tank Grey' which in effect was a match for the Mr. Hobby 'Tyre Black' Hobbyboss were calling for. The underside was Sovereign Hobby's Colourcoat's RM08 'Rosso' which in layman's terms is White Ensign's model enamels equivalent to hull red I believe. The conning tower called for it to be all black but contemporary photos of Kursk showed it having the bad-weather deck windows framed in white giving the, what looks like to me, soviet subs a rather creepy look. Also I painted some stems silver and the big dome yellow as per a reference photo I found and lost. So lets call that one artistic licence! Decalling was interesting as the carrier film the decals came on was excessively large and trying to get decals such as the emergency buoy over the dome for it was eating into my decal softener stash something rotten. Weathering however consisted mainly of Tamiya Smoke on the underside, Tamiya German Grey on top lightening patches and loads of streaking with oil paintings. Finishing off with Xtracolour's Enamel Matte Varnish I began work on the base which was literally Tamiya Gold leaf with the recessed areas sprayed black. And so it is I have finished my first ship model and so far I've gotten hold of Bronco's HMS Vanguard and Micro-Mir's Alfa to folllow the build up! As to be honest I did enjoy the build quite a lot I probably could of dusted her off but I didn't quite expect to find so much after just 2 days of finishing... Maybe time to clean the modelling room out! Thanks for looking guys Sam
  9. Finally, 13 months after I started its done. The markings are from the Eduard Profipack and paint is the exquisite Mr Color. WIP here. New stuff was ultrafine Uschi rigging thread for the aerial, ludicrous even trying to pick up but looks more scale the EZ line (see last pic). With Airfix new tool that I built four years ago: Note thickness of new Uschi superfine for the aerial. Great little kits to practise on, strongly recommend them to fix mojo loss/ams. A
  10. After nearly three months of malaise I've kick started the mojo with a simple build and learning some new modelling voodoo: I'm doing a quickish build with this, As I want to practice masking camo and I had no cockpit details, I'm using the decals for this scheme and the cockpit interior decals (Eduard thoughtfully provide some excellent interior colour etch as well). BTW Algeria has an Air Force? Last time I went they seemed to have embraced the technological revolution we call a goat... Seeing as everyone has gone nuts over this primer, I invested in some as well: And I'm trying my own paint voodoo involving various acrylics/lacquers and levelling thinners that I call Mr El Cheapo! This will involve finally spraying everything with something called fadeout thinners that should wonderfully level all the paint or melt the whole thing into a blob of styrene, both good. Lastly, in a belated attempt to extend my diminishing years I invested in this extremely expensive extractor unit: What could possibly go wrong? A
  11. This was finished many months ago but has been gathering dust due to mojo fail. Surprising as it's the best model I have managed to create with my meagre skills so far. WIP is here. Eduard etch IP for the Italeri F-5E used, Quickboost seat and Mr Color paints. Masking was with the very wonderful Panzer putty as shown in the WIP. Decals OOB, worked perfectly except where I was stingy with the Alclad Aqua gloss. Let the show begin: Eduard IP for Italeri F-5e with interesting paint wipe technique from ARC Quickboost seat Seriously pointy pitot made with Albion Alloys micro tube and 0.1mm rod My best attempt so far doing burnt metal using various Alclad Messy attempt at CMK light Properly blue training round Nose gear success: rim looks vaguely round thanks to Eduard masks Main gear, washed and mildly weathered. Note short shot gear door, you'd think I would have fixed that wouldn't you? Nicely polished landing lights - odourless cyano and micromesh Final beauty shot Cheers all A
  12. Hobby Boss is to release in 2015-2016 a new tool 1/48th MiG-31 "Foxhound" kit: MiG-31 - ref.81753 and MiG-31B/BM - ref.81754. Bad news for the AMK project (http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234946328-mig-31bm-avantgarde-model-148/?hl=foxhound#entry1401014). Source: https://www.facebook.com/TrumpeterModel/photos/pb.103526326472636.-2207520000.1418316818./393657967459469/?type=1&theater Still no 1/48th Yak-28 "Brewer" family nor (injected) Il-28 "Beagle"... V.P.
  13. A-6E TRAM Intruder

    Actually started this last week, but had a bit of a disaster with the kit seats, managing to spill glue all over them so I ended up with some Pavla Resin replacements So this morning - basic blocking out of the seats Then weathering with oils and finishing off Peter
  14. Here's one I made earlier. OK so the kit has some shape/dimension/scale issues but; if you want a kit that goes together easily and a stress free build then I can certainly recommend it. Paints used were Xtracolor Ocean Blue/Forest Green/Lichtgrau/ Sand. A bit of pastel weathering with a bit of silver pencil chipping. I did stuff a load of weight in the nose but it still plonked it's backside down and so the bit of Blutak (other taks are available) under the nosewheel. The decals are really glossy but settle down without any bother at all.
  15. Me262 Nose Wheel Design?

    One of those moments of frustration in modelling when, upon looking at ref pictures, the answer still isn't clear Did the Me262 have a particular design for its nose wheel use more than most, or where they both in use? My HobbyBoss kit supplies the option of a treaded wheel, which would nicely demonstrate weathering, or a smooth version. A few pics of captured Me262s show the latter installed, but its hard to confirm if the smooth tyres were a later installation, with the treaded being earlier models. Appreciate any help Gaz
  16. IJN Pre-Dreadnought Mikasa 1:200 Hobbyboss History Mikasa is a pre-dreadnought battleship built for the Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN) in the late 1890s, and was the only ship of her class. Named after Mount Mikasa in Nara, Japan, the ship served as the flagship of Admiral Tōgō Heihachirō throughout the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–1905, including the Battle of Port Arthur on the second day of the war and the Battles of the Yellow Sea and Tsushima. Days after the end of the Russo-Japanese War, Mikasa's magazine accidentally exploded and sank the ship. She was salvaged and her repairs took over two years to complete. Afterwards, the ship served as a coast-defence ship during World War I and supported Japanese forces during the Siberian Intervention in the Russian Civil War. After 1922, Mikasa was decommissioned in accordance with the Washington Naval Treaty and preserved as a museum ship at Yokosuka. She was badly neglected during the post-World War II Occupation of Japan and required extensive refurbishing in the late 1950s. She is now fully restored as a museum ship and can be visited at Mikasa Park in Yokosuka. Mikasa is the last remaining example of a pre-dreadnought battleship anywhere in the world The design of Mikasa was a modified version of the Formidable-class battleships of the Royal Navy with two additional 6-inch guns. Mikasa had an overall length of 432 feet, a beam of 76 feet, and a normal draught of 27 feet 2 inches. She displaced 15,140 tons at normal load. The crew numbered about 830 officers and enlisted men. The ship was powered by two vertical triple-expansion steam engines, each driving one propeller, using steam generated by 25 Belleville boilers. The engines were rated at 15,000 indicated horsepower, using forced draught, and designed to reach a top speed of 18 knots although Mikasa proved to be faster during her sea trials in December 1901. The ship reached a top speed of 18.45 knots using 16,341 indicated horsepower. She carried a maximum of 2,000 tons of coal which allowed her to steam for 9,000 nautical miles at a speed of 10 knots. Mikasa's main battery consisted of the same four Elswick Ordnance Company 40-calibre twelve-inch guns used in all of the preceding Japanese battleships. They were mounted in twin-gun barbettes fore and aft of the superstructure that had armoured hoods to protect the guns. The hydraulically powered mountings could be loaded at all angles of traverse while the guns were loaded at a fixed angle of +13.5°. They fired 850-pound projectiles at a muzzle velocity of 2,400 ft/s. The ship's secondary armament consisted of fourteen 45-calibre 6-inch quick-firing guns mounted in casemates. Ten of these guns were positioned on the main deck and the other four guns were placed above them at the corners of the superstructure. They fired 100-pound shells at a muzzle velocity of 2,300 ft/s. Protection against torpedo boat attacks was provided by twenty QF 12-pounder 12 cwt guns. Lighter guns consisted of eight 47-millimetre three-pounder Hotchkiss guns and eight 2.5-pounder Hotchkiss guns. The ship was also equipped with four submerged 18-inch torpedo tubes, two on each broadside. The waterline armour belt of Mikasa consisted of Krupp cemented armour that had a maximum thickness of 9 inches over the middle of the ship. It was only 4 inches thick at the ends of the ship and was surmounted by a six-inch strake of armour that ran between the barbettes. The barbettes were 14 inches thick, but reduced to six inches at the level of the lower deck. The armour of the barbette hoods had a thickness of 8–10 inches. The casemates protecting the secondary armament were 2–6 inches thick and the deck armour was 2–3 inches in thickness. The forward conning tower was protected by 14 inches of armour, but the aft conning tower only had four inches of armour. Mikasa, like all the other Japanese battleships of the time, was fitted with four Barr & Stroud FA3 coincidence rangefinders that had an effective range of 8,000 yd. In addition the ships were also fitted with 24-power magnification telescopic gun-sights. The Model Originally released by Merit International in her 1905 fit, Hobbyboss have now released her as she was completed in 1902. The large top opening box with a very nice painting of the ship at anchor, contains 19 sprues, and four separate parts, all in a light grey styrene, one black stand, five sheets of etched brass, a length of chain and a smallish decal sheet. Whilst not having the Merit kit to compare it with I have checked the hull and fittings with my book on Japanese Battleships by R A Burt. From what I can see Hobbyboss have the hull correct, which makes a nice change, as their Trumpeter colleagues seem to have a problem with this area in their ship kits. The mouldings are superb, especially for what is still quite a large model, there is no sign of flash or other imperfections and a fair few moulding pips to clean up. The only real problems appear to be the masts and the yardarm positions in particular. The kit calls for the lower yardarms to be attached above the lower platforms, whereas all the pictures and photos show these were fitted below the platforms, easily remedied during the build. Talking of the build, construction begins with the gluing the two hull halves together, along with the three bulkheads, rudder and lower gun deck. This all produces a really strong hull and certainly won’t collapse when handled. The ten 6” mounts on the gun deck are then fitted, each pinned into place, while four two piece 3pdr guns, each with PE gun shield are also fitted to their respective positions, two forward and two aft. The three piece main deck is then added and the model turned over to fit the two bilge keels, four propeller shafts with separate A frames and the four propellers. Each of the PE guns shields around the 6” and 3pdr guns are made of PE, they come in alternate parts and can be posed open, (three parts) or closed up, a single part). The main deck is then fitted out with a variety of winches, skylights and decks houses, as well as the two funnel bases. The multitude of large ventilators, each made from six parts are the glued into their respective positions around the midships section, followed by more skylights, hatches and smaller winches. The lower front, lower rear and two centre sections of the main superstructure are then fitted, after which two mote 6” guns are fitted fore and aft of the upper deck and eight 3pdr guns amidships. Each of the openings for the guns are shielded by PE parts much like those on the lower gun deck and are also able to be posed open or closed. Two mezzanine decks are fitted with nine support columns then glued into place over the gun mounts. The upper front and rear sections of the upper deck are then attached. For the myriad of ships boats there are fourteen cradles made of plastic and four of PE, these are all positioned within the well that the upper gun deck bulkheads created. Four more large ventilators are assembled and fitted in the same area. Each of the eight boats are made up of multiple parts, the rowing boats can be assembled open or with canvas covers fitted, they are also fitted with PE rudders. The steam launches have separate boilers and masts, but can also be assembled with a canvas cover in place, whilst the steam pinnaces are fitted with three ventilators mast and PE rudder. The boats can be attached to their cradles later in the build to allow easier access to the boat deck. There are lots of deck furniture to fit next, these include hatches, windlasses, anchor chains, haws pipe covers, (PE),storage boxes, raised deck hatches with PE grilles, cleats, bollards, Jack staff, Ensign staff, and breakwaters. With these all in place, it’s onto the bridge and the armoured conning position, including separate roof and rear screen, also on the lower bridge deck are three small deck houses, two flag lockers and two, two piece 3pdr guns. On each side there two support frames for the upper bridge deck wings. The upper bridge deck is then fitted with ten support columns before being glued into position. The single piece command bridge is then attached, along with four mast stay blocks. The same procedure is carried out for the aft positioned auxiliary steering position. The bridge and aft positions are then fitted with searchlights, binnacles, rangefinders, and PE cross braces for the outboard wing supports. The two bridge decks are also fitted with their respective railings, and inclined ladders, all made of PE. The main gun turrets are assembled next, each being made up from a turret base, onto which the four separate trunnion mounts and two guns are fitted. The turret is then slid over the guns and glued to the base, being finished off with three unidentifiable parts to the roof. The two masts are then assembled, each should be the same, but remember to fit the lower yardarm beneath the lower observation/gun platform. They are each made up from three mast sections, two platforms several PE support braces, two yardarms, a gaff, and a 20m boat handling crane. The lower platforms are fitted with two 3pdr guns, while the upper platform has a single searchlight. The two funnels are next to be assembled. Each one is made up from two halves into which the inner top section is sandwiched. Two steam pipes are fitted to the forward funnel, while the aft has three. The forward funnel also has a platform attached to its forward face to which two pipe are attached from below and two horns are fitted to the upper surface which is surrounded by a PE railing. Both funnels have a PE ring which needs to be rolled to shape before being attached, followed by the funnel cap grille. Both are then glued to their bases, before being attached to their respective positions on the boat/upper gun deck. The masts and main turrets are also fitted at this point. The mezzanine decks are fitted with eight 3pdr gun assemblies before the main railings are attached. The main deck railings are also fitted at this point, along with the main anchors in their stowage areas, their handling cranes. There are several derricks on each side of the hull which I presume are for handling the anti-torpedo netting which is provided in folded form in PE, as well as their associated storage decking which is also PE. Life-ring containers are folded to shape and a lifering added before being attached to their locations on the main hull. Four boat davits are fitted wither side of the boat deck and eight anti-torpedo net booms attached to the low down, near the waterline. Either side of the quarterdeck are four more davits onto which are attached four more of the ships boats. As with the previous boat assemblies, these can be assembled either open or with their canvas covers fitted. The two PE accommodation ladders are folded to shape, assembled and fitted either side of the quarterdeck and lastly, but by no means least, the prominent three piece covered walkway is added to the stern, and fitted with the ships name plate. Above the walkway is a small PE platform which, once attached completes the build, with the exception of painting and all the rigging has been added. The kit comes with a large black plastic stand, a name plate backplate and the name plate in etched brass, which is a nice touch. Decals The smallish decal sheet contains two Ensigns, one straight, the other as if flapping in the breeze. Not quite sure why they have done this, but in their infinite wisdom Hobbyboss have made the flags quite complex in that the sun, and the sun’s rays on either side have been printed separately which could be fun to get right. I presume it’s to prevent bleed through but I’ve not seen any other manufacturer do this. The other decals on the sheet include the prominent funnel bands and the ships name. Conclusion The last pre-dreadnought in existence deserves it’s place in maritime lore, and it’s great to see this ship given the 1:200 treatment, as it’s the perfect scale for what is in fact quite a small ship. Once built, it will look superb in any collection, but I suggest you invest in a nice case to keep the dust off it. There are a number of upgrades for this ship produced by the likes of Mk1 Design if you wish to take it to the next level, but with all the etch that’s included some modellers may feel that is a little extravagant, That said, it could certainly do with a wooden deck and turned barrels, such as those reviewed HERE. Review sample courtesy of
  17. HMS Lord Nelson 1:350 Hobbyboss History HMS Lord Nelson was a Lord Nelson-class pre-dreadnought battleship launched in 1906 and completed in 1908. She was the Royal Navy's last pre-dreadnought. The ship was flagship of the Channel Fleet when World War I began in 1914. Lord Nelson was transferred to the Mediterranean Sea in early 1915 to participate in the Dardanelles Campaign. She remained there, becoming flagship of the Eastern Mediterranean Squadron, which was later redesignated the Aegean Squadron. After the Ottoman surrender in 1918 the ship moved to the Black Sea where she remained as flagship before returning to the United Kingdom in May 1919. Lord Nelson was placed into reserve upon her arrival and sold for scrap in June 1920. HMS Lord Nelson was laid down by Palmers Shipbuilding and Iron Company at Jarrow on 18 May 1905 and launched on 4 September 1906. Her completion was greatly delayed by the diversion of her 12-inch (305 mm) guns and turrets to expedite completion of Dreadnought, and she was not fully completed until October 1908. Although she was not the last pre-dreadnought laid down for the Royal Navy, she was the last one commissioned. Lord Nelson displaced 17,820 long tons (18,106 t) at deep load as built, with a length of 443 feet 6 inches (135.2 m), a beam of 79 feet 6 inches (24.2 m), and a draft of 26 feet (7.9 m). She was powered by two four-cylinder inverted vertical triple-expansion steam engines, which developed a total of 16,750 indicated horsepower (12,490 kW) and gave a maximum speed of 18 knots (33 km/h; 21 mph). She was armed with four 12-inch guns arranged in two twin gun turrets, one turret each fore and aft. Her secondary armament consisted of ten 9.2-inch (234 mm) guns, eight in twin gun turrets on each corner of the superstructure, and a single gun turret between them. For defence against torpedo boats, Lord Nelson carried twenty-four QF 12-pounder 18 cwt guns and two 3-pounder guns. She also mounted five submerged 18-inch (457 mm) torpedo tubes for which 23 torpedoes were stowed aboard The Model We’ve yet to see many British ships in this scale from WWI, but it’s great that we are at last seeing some pre-dreadnoughts being released, and long my it continue as there are some great subjects that I’m sure we’d all like to see on our work benches at some point in the future. This kit of HMS Lord Nelson comes in a relatively small box, as these weren’t the largest of ships compared with later battleships. Inside there are nine sprues, one separate part and the deck all produced in light grey styrene, four sheets of etched brass, a length of chain and a medium sized decal sheet. Now I hope you’re all sitting down when you read this, as it appears that Hobbyboss have got the hull pretty much spot on with this kit, well, certainly according to R A Burt and his excellent books on British battleships and also the constructors model which used to be on display at the Science museum. The rest of the parts are very nicely moulded with plenty of detail, although there will be some who will want to add even more. There are no signs of flash or other imperfections, but there are quite a few moulding pips, which means a little extra cleaning up of parts. Construction begins with the two piece hull being joined together and strengthened with the three bulkheads and two end beams. The single piece deck is then attached, making a pretty solid and strong hull. On the underside, the tow propeller shafts, A frames and propellers are fitted, as is the single rudder. With the hull upright, the three piece, fully PE, Admirals walkway is fitted to the stern, followed by the PE rails fore of A turret barbette and aft of X turret barbette. The myriad of windlasses, cleats, bollard and ventilators are then glued into their respective positions, as are the Jack and Ensign staffs and their supports. Amidships there are seven deck houses to be fitted along with four cable reels and three winches. The superstructure is made up from a single piece item to which twelve supports are glued to the underside before being glued into position over the previously fitted deck houses. Remember to add the pair of foreward mounted 12 pounders that fire from ports at the forward end of this “flying” flying, as you won’t get them in once the deck is glued down. The superstructure longitudinal bulkheads are then attached, as are PE four inclined ladders, four side mounted windlasses, two boat booms and the anchor chains. To the upper deck, four, three piece winches, sixteen 12 pounder guns and five deck houses are fitted. This deck is then covered by a two piece 03 deck, with the aft section supported by six vertical columns. The main bridge deck is then attached foreward and small mezzanine decks aft with two inclined ladders leading to the 12 pounder deck. Each of the two funnels are made up from two halves, a base and funnel cap. To these, PE funnel cap grilles are added, along with PE hand and foot rails, and two auxiliary vents. The three piece armoured bridge, two deck houses and the two piece ships wheel are attached to the bridge deck. The two funnel assemblies are then glued into place along with two vertical columns aft. The boat deck is fitted out with eighteen PE boat cradles and a rescue float. There are fifteen boats in total, most of which come with separate hulls and decks, and some also have separate rudders. The three steam pinnaces and eight rowing boats are glued to their respective cradles, and then two other rowing boats are crutched within a larger boat. The main mast is made up from lower mast section, a two tier observation top with PE support brackets, upper mast section and yardarm. The lower section is then fitted with three PE blocks, and the three piece goose neck for the boat crane boom, which is also fitted with PR blocks and a PE hook. This is then fitted aft of the boat deck and supported by two angled support arms, finished off with two PE vertical ladders. The foremast is of similar construction, just with a slightly small boat handling boom, three yardarms and a searchlight in the lower of the two tier observation top, it is then glued just aft of the armoured bridge deck house. The PE bridge house surrounding the ships wheel is then folded to shape and glued into place, with another deck above it supported by two PE braces. Two binnacles are attached to this deck and inclined ladder. Six 12 pounder guns and eight searchlights are fitted around the boat deck and the PE bridge wings attached wither side of the bridge deck. The bridge deck and aft boat deck railings are then attached, as are the two long ladders to the foremast observation platforms, and two pairs of davits to the aft end of the superstructure. Four more two part ships boats are assembled and fitted to the two pairs for davits either side of the quarterdeck. The anchors, fourteen anti-torpedo net booms are then attached to the hull, along with the two PE rear mounted accommodation ladders and the PE folded netting that is fitted to each side to the ship. Each of the two main gun turrets and six secondary turrets are made in the same way with the barrels fitted with separate trunnions and trunnion mounts glued to the base with the turret slid over the barrels and glued into positions. Some of the turrets are fitted with 12 pounders and some with 3” gun on their roofs and all have PE vertical access ladders attached. Once assembled, they are fitted into their respective barbettes. Finally the main PE railing is attached to the main deck, completing the build. Well, I say completed, but if you want to do a proper job you will probably spend more time with the complex rigging than you had done for the whole build. Good luck with that. Decals The single decal sheet contains a selection of White Ensigns and Admirals flags as well as a pair of funnel bands. They seem pretty well printed, with good opacity and in register. Conclusion At last, a British pre-Dreadnought in injection moulded plastic, and another on its way, with hopefully more to come, a golden age of modelling, or what? This does look an excellent kit and is not too large so can be displayed in a relatively small space. The rigging will, however, be taxing, to say the least if you want to go the whole hog, but will look good with a representative amount should you blanche at the idea. Review sample courtesy of
  18. HobbyBoss is to release 1/48th Sukhoi Su-17M-4 & Su-17UM-3 "Fitter-K & G" kits - ref. 81758 & 81759 - in 2016-2017 Source: https://www.facebook.com/TrumpeterModel/photos/a.103538733138062.8169.103526326472636/537476479744283/?type=3&theater V.P.
  19. Hobbyboss 1/350th USS Alaska

    Hey guys, I just got the Alaska through the mail this morning and knew I had to share her. Its my first hobbyboss kit and it looks phenomenally well made. Its an entirely new tooling for 2017. Noone I contacted in the UK knew of a release time or date so I imported mine from Germany for £80. Full set of pics I have here She's pretty darn large, sitting at around 70x8 cm. The hull is a single piece with some really nice detailing added to it. In the box you get 5 sprues and one bag of superstructure parts. Two sprues of little detailing bits (propellers, lifeboats etc). Six sprues of main and secondary guns. One of funnels and AA posts. A pretty solid looking stand. Two sprues of clear pieces for some aircraft. Four photoetch frets with railings, ladders, fire directors, radar masts and more. A two part deck and some chain. Detailing is fantastic through ought and I'm very impressed with the deck; Photoetch doesnt look too fiddly to handle. There arent any particularly small pieces and all the ones that need bending look well scored; Instructions are usual Academy style with steps being very clear and pretty sparse. Although they go upto step 50 I expect someone like dragon would have it condensed into 15. Colours are given for a range of manufacturers which is nice to see nowadays. The kit looks brilliant, only slight complaint is no metal prop shafts that I can see and the medium sized AA/secondary battery could ahve done with some metal barrels. The main battery is pretty fine since it looks nice and easy to drill out, but the smaller guns are a little small for that in my view.
  20. No it's not a joke. After the Kinetic announcement here's the HobbyBoss 1/48th Sukhoi Su-33 "Flanker-D" kit - ref. 81761 Source: https://www.facebook.com/TrumpeterModel/photos/a.103538733138062.8169.103526326472636/529782187180379/?type=3&theater V.P.
  21. Good Afternoon folks! Here is my first ever Luftwaffe subject! Always had a spot for the long-nosed Dora so decided to have a crack at the Hobbyboss kit that I picked up in Seoul for £12! Its a beauty and even comes with photoetched parts. I added some seatbelts and the old-style canopy from the Eduard kit. Paints by Mr Hobby and Xtracrylix, decals by SkyModels. The colour scheme may be inaccurate, I used an old article in a Luftwaffe modelling guide which I later found out contradicts Jerry Crandall's research. There is a good chance that it should be 'Black 11' and the RV band should be black and white too. Oh well! I like the JG2 markings Apologies for the depth of field issues with the photos, I took these outside and its nearly 50 degrees. It was a race to see if the model or I would melt first and as the flat coat started to get tacky after about 30 seconds there was no way I was going back out there to take more!!! Thanks for looking, Chris
  22. Today I finished this Hobbyboss 1/72nd P-39Q. Built box stock including decals. Painted with Tamiya acrylics except for the Olive Drab and Neutral Gray, where I tried Model Masters. Somehow I managed to get some fogging or dirt on the inside of the canopy. Not sure what happened, I'd used Tamiya green cap to fix the canopy down and a few hours later when I masked it, it was fine. Other than that I'm pretty happy with it, particularly given cost and the small amount of time invested. It went together pretty well. Needed a few spots of putty, nothing big. Most of the panel lines on the fuselage where inconsistent in depth so I re-scribed the bulk of them to try to get more uniformity. I've picked up a few of these Hobbyboss kits and some, like this one, are pretty much fine. Others, like the Buffalo with the missing belly window, less so. The plastic in all of them is soft, kind of like a bar of soap, so you have to be careful with it.
  23. To kick the Easter weekend off in style, I have completed my most recent Lynx model (my 8th Lynx) in the markings of (what else but) 815 Sqn Fleet Air Arm, as previously embarked in HMS SOMERSET. Last month (March) saw the final retirement of the lynx from the RN, after a front line career of nearly 40 years and active participation in at least 6 major conflicts (Falklands, Gulf 1, Bosnia, Kosovo, Gulf 2, Sierra Leone), plus continuous service in anti-narcotic, counter-terrrorism and anti-piracy roles around the world. It has now been replaced by the AW159 Wildcat, which is essentially an advanced Lynx development, but to my mind, nowhere near as elegant an aircraft!. This one is based on the modern Hobbyboss kit, which is a fairly easy and satisfying build, but has some serious shape and detail issues, some of which I have sorted, others of which are beyond my skills. I definitely prefer the Airfix offering. However, my finished model "looks like a Lynx to me!" The RN Mk8 issue doesn't seem to be easy to find around these parts, so this is the German issue, which i also used for my Black Cats Lynx. I think the box contents are the same though. I haven't yet written up all of the changes I have made, but in essence: Rotor head mount trimmed down (it sits about 4m too high) Tail rotor direction reversed Top and bottom door rails added Airfix doors substituted (Hobbyboss window in wrong position) Inflatable internal seat added (taken from an Airfix kit) IR/laser detectors added to nose/flanks/disco ball under tail Flare launchers added to undercarriage sponsons Wire MF aerial added CPI added to top of tail Rear flotation bags added to sponsons. Engine top deck modified Several wires/cable details added. ... and the main things I couldn't change: Windscreen too shallow & rounded Simplified rotor head (no actuators) BERP blades very poor shape Fuselage underside too curved Nose underside profile wrong - seems to curve up too much. I'm also not sure the flares would be appropriate for a full Sting Ray weapon load, but who knows And to finish, a wild pack of Lynx..... FredT
  24. Hi folk's I'm enjoying a spate of easy kit build's at the moment so a good excuse to build a couple more comes by way of this GB. Love em or hate em they are fun and do build into nice little kits with a little effort,so I'm ordering a couple or maybe two each of these two for my entry sadly my go to retailer does not have the Mig 3 but with the Northern show on the horizon I might come across one to add,should have them in time for the start.
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