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I use Alclad gloss black base as my base for their chrome. Generally it works quite well for me. This time I got an interesting phenomenom I am unfamilair with. I sprayed pretty heavily and while the gloss came out, it did create a channel in some of the parts/panel lines (see photos attached): The obvious spots are in the vent areas (lower portion of part, red color). https://imgur.com/a/uTckMQm My question is whether I can spray a light coat over these parts (there are... many) to fill in those gaps and ensure full chrome coverage? Or do I spray the chrome and deal with the tiny gaps as is?

Hi, There's some threads regarding paint drying times, but I've a question regarding the characteristics of specifically gloss Gunze aqueous paints. I've sprayed a model with Gunze H1 -Gloss White- recently, and after almost a week, the paint is dry but it's apparent it still hasn't cured. I need to mask and spray some red ares on the model. I've read, here and there, that gloss Gunze might take a while to cure - weeks, a couple of months, even years. Any tips how to deal with this - maybe how to speed up curing time? Thanks, Jay EDIT - I've stripped the paint, and repainted it. I used, as per Duncan B's suggestion, a coat or two of H11 flat white followed by one coat of H1 gloss white, and on inspection a few days on the paint was dry and fully cured.

Hello modellers, I just ordered a few things from ebay and scale model shop as well as an Aoshima aventador SV. The main things I am interested in with my order include a can of Mr super clear gloss clear coat and the tamiya polishing compound set. I am in the UK but managed to find the tamiya compounds at a reasonable but still quite expensive price. I understand that a clearcoat should be sanded to create a smooth surface and get rid of orange peel and then the compounds will buff out and remove scratches giving it a great shine. 3 questions: 1. Are the tamiya compounds the best and if not should I get some meguiars or something else? 2. Does anyone know of a good hobby store near london? 3. Can the compounds be used safetly on a 1k clear like mr super clear or is it too easy to burn through?

As I’ve recently returned to modelling after an extended break techniques have changed. Currently building the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII Dambuster. After having completed the painting using Vallejo acrylics I then moved to the gloss coat prior to adding decals. At this stage disaster struck. My first attempt airbrushing a mix of 75% varnish to 25% water coat of Vallejo Gloss. The coat pooled and run and dried milky even though I thought I had misted it. I then had to rub down and decided to try brushing. I used a good quality 1” acrylic brush but after 2 coats there was brush streaks all over. Even using a very fine wet & dry and glossing over again did not remove them. I have reluctantly removed all traces of the varnish and repainted the whole model again. Before I attempt the gloss coat again I would appreciate any advice from the group as to where I may be going wrong or better gloss products to use. many thanks

Please does anyone know the best spray can colour to use for 50s and 60s glossy RAF camo? Would Tamiya AS-9 be the right green? Thanks!

So I recently bought Tamiyas’ X-35 semi-gloss clear , I applied decals onto my model and topped it off with mr mark softer , should I add a semi-gloss clear coat above the decals ? or are there any problems I might face? Are there any extended benefits?

I have been using the gloss version of this... ...with a broad flat brush for a month or two now - prior to decaling and I've been very happy with the results so far. I just wondered - does anyone use it through an airbrush. If so - does it work just as well and can anyone recommend the matt or satin versions. Advice and opinions as always - gratefully received. Thanks - Steve

Hi I was looking to buy 1:48 A-10 but considering the expense of the model, I really want to make it perfect. One problem I have had in the past is decal silvering, even with Humbrol Decal Fix, so now I want to buy a varnish to help me apply them better (I have never used a varnish before). I have searched the internet and most people seem to use Alclad or Humbrol - given the fact that I have never used any Alclad products, I will look to buy Humbrol. I need a gloss varnish to apply the decals onto, however, Humbrol offer different ones: https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/modelcote-gloss-cote-28ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/spray-paints/varnish-sprays/35-enamel-varnish-gloss-150ml-spray-varnish.html (this can also be bought in tins however I feel like spraying the varnish would be better???) EDIT: http://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/index.php?CATEGORY=1&SUB=4&THISPAGE=2&RADIOSORT=5&PICFILE=163&STKNR=163&STRH=4165&ORDN=5029&RNZ=586536 (After some research Alclad II Aqua Gloss sounds very promising, however, I do not have an airbrush which I think is what it is designed for - any opinions on brush use of it?) Any info one what the differences are would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be brush applying if they do come in bottles because I don't have an airbrush. Cheers, Adam

Hi All, I've picked up a 1/200 Vulcan and have finally decided to go anti flash white (I chickened out of doing it on my last Victor...) I want to do this with spray cans. What are the best (ideally cheapest) primer and white gloss products for the job? I don't know whether to go primer > matt white > clear gloss primer > gloss white enamel vs. acrylic etc Any help to make sure this just works first time would be highly appreciated! Ta, Chris

Hello all. I'm in a state of confusion at present, heh. Ok, so here's the issue. After quite a hiatus I've recently got back into some modelling. Back when I use to make models, I put them together, painted them and added the decals, and that was it. I never used varnishes or washes or weathering. For Christmas I received a Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing starfighter. A bit different from what I used to make, being a clip-kit, but I actually quite liked not having to faff around with glue, sticking the parts to myself more than the other pieces So anyway. I gave it a coat of Tamiya primer, then some flat black and light grey for the shadowing. Other bits were painted with Tamiya acrylics with tiny amounts of Revell matt enamels here and there (for chips and marks and whatnot). Overall, I think it looks pretty good for my first foray into 'beating' up a kit. Now here's where the dilemma sets in. Varnishing. I've read a lot about Klear. Of course, prior to this kit, I'd never heard of the stuff. Apparently it was renamed and rebottled and appears slightly different, but works the same way. I got my hands on some Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, which I think is the same stuff updated. My surety wavers a little when I see people displaying bottles with the old Klear markings above the new title (I haven't actually seen anyone with the exact bottle I have). I've tested it on a small piece, and it did do the job. Also stood up to a small test of Mig washes and a bit of paint cleaner (still waiting on my Mig thinner to arrive). However, the results were a little less stellar on a larger test piece (the kit base). It didn't seem to apply consistently, and even after a few coats the wash test didn't really flow into all the little nooks and cranny's. In hindsight doing a test clean up with the Revell paint cleaner probably wasn't the best choice ( ) since it started to remove the underlying layer, but the exercise had me a little concerned for when I would apply this stuff to the model. By brush, I might add. So I started looking around. So far I've snagged myself a can of Vallejo matt acrylic for the final job (I think prior to applying Mig pigments, since I hear coating them doesn't work well) since a test of adding some flat base to the pledge didn't exactly work, but my recent test had me wondering about the gloss. Today I had a look around. The options were limited to a bottle of Windsor and Newton gloss varnish (not sure how that would react), and some Humbrol gloss cote. My confusion flares up with regard to the Humbrol in particular. The Humbrol video on the gloss cote says to thin it up with enamel thinners. That would suggest its composition is similar to enamel paint, or something similarly solvent based (no real information on what its made up of that I can find). But then the Humbrol washes (and the Mig for that matter) are enamel, and cleaned up with enamel thinners. So how is it the Gloss cote isn't stripped off as well? I'm pretty confused at the moment, and a little worried to try anything in case it completely knackers all my work so far. If anyone can clear this up for me, I'd really appreciate it. I'd also love to know for certain if this is the right stuff: Thanks for any help in advance

Good day all, I'm just about to start my second model and I've been reading the forums to try to figure out in what order to do things while building a model. However ... it seems that there are a number of ways of doing things and a multitude of techniques and products. So for us new or returning to the modelling game I'd like to see if we can produce something like a modelling 101 ... the basics. Sticking with things more readily available in your local HobbyCraft, for example, is one way to get people started and to a good finish on a model without being overwhelmed by the options out there. So ..... Here's where I'm at before I start my next model. Can some of you more experienced modellers (most of you lol) help guide me through my thinking and advise on where I'm missunderstanding various steps. Step 1 - Priming. I'm using Humbrol Enamel Paints on Airfix kits. Is priming needed or will the enamel paints adhere well to clean plastic? Step 2 - Painting detailed parts. As stated I'm starting with Humbrol Enamel paints. Shaking the paints to death seems to be needed a lot but does work. I'm applying the paint by hand with various brushes but how many coats of enamel should be needed ? Also if the paint seems to be running a little thin is this just a case of needing to shake a little more ? Avoiding painting the surfaces where glue is to be applied is also a must or components won't fit. Step 3 - Assembly. I've worked out that glasswork needs to be added after the exterior painting is completed so the bits under the glasswork are the right colour. So slow assembly of the model needs to take place. Humbrol filler can be used to fill in any imperfections in the joins and then smoothed off. Fine emery boards are good for smoothing away the bits left after removing the parts from the mouldings. Step 4 - Paint glasswork Step 5 - Coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear Step 6 - Add glasswork decals Step 7 - Again coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear to seal Step 8 - Paint assembled bodywork Step 9 - Seal bodywork with Humbrol Clear Step 10 - Apply decals Step 11 - Seal decals with Humbrol Clear Step 12 - Apply weathering effects using weathering powders watered down with some Humbro thinners. Build up effect slowly and wash down with thinners and a cotton bud. Step 13 - Have a coffee Now the above is where i'm currently at as a basic walk through on how to get your modelling restarted but I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'll also try to add the next build into the work in progress thread so I can pick up advice along the way. I'm trying to keep things simple but effective for starters so if I'm way off on something then please let me know. Would appreciate the help/advice Thanks Dave.

Hey guys, I just purchased what I thought was future floor wax for a gloss coat, but it turned out to be something called "pledge floor care finish" will this work like future? Thanks.

Hello everyone, So I finally got around to building my spitfire! Total time it took is under a week including drying, sleeping etc. This is my first build ever, I am now going to start on the Airfix 737. Let me know what you think I used the paints provided in the kit except for Revell Aqua aluminium for bits of the landing gear. I used UHU for to glue the canopy to the body. There's a pilot inside. Also, I used decalfix for the decals, decalfix worked amazingly well I'd say. Lastly sealed everything in with two thin coats of Revell Aqua Gloss. [Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this build over at another thread ] See below the pictures of the final product : That's it. Let me know what you think! I'm going to be building the Airfix 737-200 soon, so let me know what I can improve on. I'll start a new build thread tomorrow or something for the 737 in the airliners section . Cheers, Hamdhan

Just finishing my XH558 rendering of the Airfix 1/72 kit - will post to RFI when done. It's had numerous coats of Humbrol Clear before decaling and a couple after and it's got quite a nice deep lustre about it. I'm about to do a quick panel line wash with Flory Models 'Grime' and then a final coat of varnish, final assembly and et voila! The question is should that final coat be Humbrol Clear again or Xtracrylix Satin? I've looked at loads of pictures (including the VTTS publications actually of the contemporary XH558) and it seems pretty shiny to me so I'm of a mind to stay with gloss but could be persuaded otherwise ...... Any thoughts before I commit myself? Many thanks, Andrew BTW, it is the Falklands War 25 years edition so based on the Vulcan Display Flight I guess rather than the XH558 we know today - the moulding was the old 1980s one, which was pretty shabby compared to modern kits and the decals weren't the best but I've had fun and learnt loads!

Ok, this is starting to drive me crazy. I've been brush-painting Humbrol enamel gloss brunswick green onto a fairly large area of an Airfix "Beam Engine" (a steam engine used for pumping water out of mines), but the paint is like a magnet for dust! Even as I'm brushing on the paint I can see a few bit of dust settling, and when I come back after letting it dry the whole thing is just coated in dust. I've tried sanding off the dust and repainting, I had the same problem, I sanded again and tried leaving the model under a box while the paint dried and it still came out "dusty". I've worked with matt enamel for the most part until now, and not really had this trouble, I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a Revell Marten hair paintbrush, I thoroughly mix the paint in the tin (thought the gloss green never looks like it needs it), brush straight from the tin, and the room doesn't seem all that dusty. I've seen kits built where the gloss finish is like a highly polished brand-new car, a mirror-like sheen and not a blemish on it - any advice on how I can get this kind of effect on my kit?