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Found 27 results

  1. I haven't done a RFI for sometime. In fact I think I've only ever done one, maybe two This the old Airfix 1/32 1912 Ford Model T converted to a post-1917 Model T Pick-up Its far from perfect tho. Main things done were; steering connections made changed to left-hand drive instrument panel and instruments added the scuttle, radiator and engine bonnet rounded the rear deck extended and the pick-up/stake body built of plastic card windscreen glazed and mid-way bar added tilt roof rear window glazed exhaust end pipe extended with plastic tubing and angled down and outwards, away from spare wheel spare wheel mounted under pick-up body 'little-lenses' used for head lights and tail light left off everything not appropriate to a later Model T
  2. Hi all Ford Zakspeed Capri Gr.5 Wurth from TAMIYA, 1/24. OOB Model made for customer in 2015 Best regards Martin
  3. 2-40 Robert

    Anyone remember the programme? In the late 70's early 80's, created by the same guy who created "CHiPs" and hot on the heels of the classic "Emergency!" 240 Robert was the callsign of the Bronco used by two Los Angeles County Sheriff's deputies who were also search and rescue paramedics. The programme focused on this aspect rather than the policing role, it only lasted 15 episodes and one of the main characters was played by Mark Harmon, later of NCIS fame. As a young kid in West Yorkshire, I loved it, I think it was on ITV on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Of course now through the magic of the internet you can research and revisit all these things that you only vaguely remember. The modern LASD still operates these search and rescue teams and they use a wide range of vehicles, so this build will be a little "what if" but is based strongly on the real thing. I've had the Meng kit for quite a long time and had played with the idea of doing this but lacked any suitable decals, however with JBOT decals making a reappearance I decided now was the time. The kit will be used pretty much out of the box, just a little scratch building and alteration of the centre console to turn it into a police vehicle, then the scratching of a box to sit on the truck bed. The decals are here and look excellent and the light bar is coming from police car models in the US and other little interesting bits from the spares box and Kit Form Services. So a few pictures. F350 - 2 by phil da greek, on Flickr F350 - 3 by phil da greek, on Flickr Big box full of stuff, a lot of it is to build a very realistic engine, not for me as the bonnet / hood will be down, just enough so if anyone views it from the right angle there is something there. The instructions are good. Nice & clear, making it obvious where bits need to go. F350 - 4 by phil da greek, on Flickr F350 - 5 by phil da greek, on Flickr Centre console as supplied and then as butchered and then an idea of where we're going with it. F350 - 6 by phil da greek, on Flickr F350 - 7 by phil da greek, on Flickr F350 - 8 by phil da greek, on Flickr So far so good. The chassis is built and being painted up, it went together very well with almost no need to "fettle", all in all the kit goes together well with no big gaps to fill (so far). Only two complaints really, first the nasty rubber tyres, I've had no success finding resin ones (anybody got any leads? 35mm diameter, probably the same size as 1/24 Land Rovers) and the second were the truly stunning ejection marks in the crew cab floor that took some serious fixing. Feel free to join in but a word of warning, if you're a F350 or LA County Sheriff expert, you may want to go somewhere else. Feel free to count my rivets but don't expect me to thank you. Laters.
  4. Italeri Ford Escort RS1800 Mk. II

    We have Italeri's new Ford Escort RS1800 Mk.II in 1/24 scale! Featuring a wealth of detail, rubber tyres and decals for Hannu Mikkola's 1979 Monte Carlo Rallye machine. Oh and it's 10% off too! https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/italeri-124-ford-escort-mkii-model-kit/ Visit the Wonderland Models website: www.wonderlandmodels.com Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/wonderlandmodels
  5. I am doing a Ford Fiesta of the Paraguayan driver Augusto Bestard, which I had the pleasure of seeing in person in Erechim, in the year 2015. He competed for the South American stage of that year. This is the car: He is a Ford Fiesta R5, category below the WRC. I'm going to use a Fiesta WRC from Belkits, it's not the same car because WRCs are different from the R5 in some aspects of the body, but since I live in Brazil, buying a transkit is practically the price of a new kit (and the Two together gets really heavy on price), so sadly he'd been left with those differences. The belkits kit comes with asphalt wheels, so for this I'm going to use the wheels of the Citroen Xsara WRC from Heller, making some small adjustments to fit. It will look like this: Well, paint did all through masks, the decals will be customized, printed by a supplier here from Brazil. First layer was white throughout the car, then masks to red, and finally the black color, below some photos of the process: thanks!!!
  6. Hello A few pictures on my project that I have finished in Aughust. It's Revell Ford 32 in 1:25 scale for someone who like post apocalypse universe and films. Enjoy. Cheers Mike
  7. Finished this a couple of days ago, something a little different for me, picked the kit up earlier this year in California for a tidy sum of $9.99, so I got two. Nicely made, couple of little bits inside to go with the police stickers - yes stickers not decals. Moulded in black which made the white paint a pain. The decals are from JBOT (who still seems to be off line), the light bar is from police car hobbies and a few stick on glittery things to simulate the LEDs that adorn most emergency vehicles these days. You may ask why Ontario Provincial Police out of Thunder Bay? Well, I could lie here but I saw a photo of an OPP cruiser and liked the look of it and these are what I had left from a project of a few years ago. Untitled by phil da greek, on Flickr Untitled by phil da greek, on Flickr Untitled by phil da greek, on Flickr Hope you like it, I enjoyed the simple build but as always there were some struggles along the way.
  8. Time to post my new project. I have build this kit a few years ago but I since it was one of my first models I did make a few mistakes while building it. The bumper broke off a few times, paint snapped off, glue on the clearcoat... The main reason why I always fixed it up was because I painted the stripes myself. Here it is newly build: The new kit: unboxing: https://www.facebook.com/mgscalemodels/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1174778152583795 All the body parts: Painted these Zero Paints Jet Black And this is now the 7th Mustang I build I pretty much know this kit inside out. And I also mannaged to paint the primer, first and second colours in 1 airbrush session. Also knowing this kit the assembly went really fast. I did have some problems with the body. Had to sand away the bad spots and give it a new coat of Jet Black. First I just used Gloss black, but that paint was to thick. Had to throw it out... Didn't take any picture's of how bad it was, but it was just like my GT500... But now it's ready for the gold decals. Going to use the decals this time. Hope to have the decals and clear on tomorrow, but first I need to clean out my spray booth. Thanks for watching! Mike
  9. Most of the work in progress was done last weekend however I managed to get some hours in this week. I battled through the fit issues of this old kit, it didn't come with any white wall tyre inserts or any decals. I used Alclad black base over a grey primer, I then used an Automotive 2K clear over the Alclad base to give the shine. For the seats and the interior door panels I used Revell Purpurrot Aqua Color which was brushed over with a Automotive 2K clear matte lacquer, this gave the effect of a leather type material on the seats. I was struggling to get certain items correct as I was trying to copy the on screen movie image of the car which is shown at the end of the list of pictures. There was a badge under the front left headlamp which was the "Super Deluxe Legend", I decided to make something that looked similar using an old sewing needle to try and give the impression of the badge. Also I didn't have the correct number plates but I did delve into my Ford Torino Revell kit and I decided to take the Californian registration plates that were on the decal sheet as the movie car plates had California on them which was good enough for me. The silver solder stripes that I glued to the side of the car, although I did Alclad chrome the front and rear bumpers I didn't think it was worth trying to paint the rest of the chrome items that were around the car in Alclad as it was very easy to wear off when it was handled. I did find that the Vallejo chrome metallic paint was really good for painting small items and although it was not as good as Alclad from the look point of view, it was much easier to apply and resisted being rubbed off so easy as the Alclad did. I decided to scrape off the paint on the stripes to reveal the silver solder and with a little bit of metal polish they came up looking pretty good. Overall for an old kit I think it came together quite well and as near as I could get it to the car that was in the Back to the Future movie. You can see my work in progress of this build here.
  10. I picked up this kit off eBay at a really ridiculously cheap price. Not sure if anyone else in the forum has built this kit, I think it dates from around 1980 however it is very well detailed for the age of the kit. Quite a bit of flash here and there but nothing that can't be sorted. Although this is a 48 Ford, the kit gives you the option to build the car into a 47 or 46 model so I decided to build a 46 Ford that was modelled on the car that the character "Biff" drove in the Back to the Future movies. This particular car had distinctive stainless steel strips running down the bodywork, I decided that the kit supplied chrome tape was not going to be adequate for my standard of build that I was trying to achieve so I used silver solder that was cynoed onto the car body. The intention was that once the car was painted I could scrape the paint from the strips to reveal the silver solder as a metal stripe. Not sure if it was going to work but it was worth a try. The last image is a screen grab of the actual car out of the movie that I was trying to model. Although this is a 48 Ford, the kit gives you the option to build the car into a 47 or 46 model so I decided to build a 46 Ford that was modelled on the car that the character "Biff" drove in the Back to the Future movies. This particular car had distinctive stainless steel strips running down the bodywork, I decided that the kit supplied chrome tape, it was not going to be adequate for my standard of build that I was trying to achieve so I used silver solder that was cynoed onto the car body. The intention was that once the car was painted I could scrape the paint from the strips to reveal the silver solder as a metal stripe. Not sure if it was going to work but it was worth a try. The last image is a screen grab of the actual car out of the movie that I was trying to model.
  11. Well I decided to dig this out to use as a stress reliever build to go alongside my Days of Thunder build and well, just look what happened in 3hrs Ok so it was a stalled build from last year lol. Better explanation to come in a WIP I'm going to start about a Capri with a Turbo Eye's peeled everyone lol. TTFN Ashley
  12. Heres a few models ive made over the last 6 months or so. First up, two Tamiya F1 kits, the 1/20 scale Ferrari 640 and Williams FW11. The Ferrari went quite well, only really the nose doesnt quite fit properly, it doesnt quite meet up with the panel surrounding the suspension arms. I used Halfords Vauxhall Flame red, looks ok but im not really bothered if its not 100% right. The Marlboro decals with Mansells name on were plain with no "marlboro" on them so i printed some on decal paper and added it, looks much better imo. Im still getting to grips with spraying paint and theres some signs of orange peel. Also added a few photo etched screw heads to the side panels for a bit of realism. The Williams gave me alot more trouble. Firstly the panels around the front suspension leave unsightly gaps so i decided to do as ive seen others do and stick these to the main body and fill the gaps, then cut down the suspension in half. After lots of sanding i think i got it right, not really noticable. The biggest problem were the decals, the originals had yellowed slightly on the white so i bought a set from Indycals, these werent so great. I had major trouble trying to get the decal flat enough with no creasing around the small bumps above the suspension and i probably made an error as they didnt quite fit together right. So i decided to leave the original ones in the sun for a few days to try and bleach the white bits. I then stripped the decals and applied the tamiya ones. These were much better and although i never got them prefect even after tons of microsol im happy with them. Last problem was the engine cover, its a bit warped and doesnt quite sit right. As someone pointed out to me i shouldve checked at the start I tried putting it on and holding down with a rubber band and it helped a bit but you live and learn. Also i used a Tamiya photoetched seat belt set and a few PE screw heads on the rear wing to cover the join points. Ive decided to do a TV cars theme and i started with Revells Starsky & Hutch Ford Gran Torino(1/25). A nice little kit with not majorly over detailed but some nice dashboard decals to give a woodgrain look, the stripe was in 3 parts and a bit tricky to get lined up. I made a mistake with the headlights and the glass clouded up. But here it is, again im still happy with it . To go with the TV theme i have a Aoshima LA chips kawasaki 1000 police bike, ive never done a motorbike and want to do it justice so i thought id buy another bike to practice on first. So i bought the Tamiya Yamaha XV1000 as its quite cheap. The instructions say to paint the fuel tank and side panels maroon but i wanted to do something different, as you can see. The only problem with doing the stars and stripes would be the stars. But my mrs makes hand made greetings cards and happened to have a die that popped out some stars, although not perfect and they are rounded on the ends rather than sharp i think it looks ok.(although im not sure if i put too many stars on?) So thanks for viewing. (And if you read all that, well done )
  13. Belkits 1/24 Ford Escort RS1600 This kit was brought back from Japan a couple of weeks ago by a good friend of mine. The other three kits I’m making at the moment have been put on hold until this one’s done. I’ve owned three Escort MkIs over many years which can be curse and a blessing when it comes to being so familiar with the real thing. I'll just give a brief intro until I can find the camera lead to download some pics and will continue the commentary at the same time. The box is full: the body shell is packed in its own carton with the rest of the space filled by four sprues many of which have runners set at an angle to allow (presumably) the moulding and subsequent protection of the parts. A cursory glance through the instructions reveals cad line drawings that aren’t the clearest - very thin lines with no variation in thickness as well as some ‘contours’ or ‘mesh’ lines, and tinted all over with a flat tone. It can be difficult to see if the drawings are showing the inside or outside. Several drawings are doubled up, for example the interior ‘cradle’ showing both right hand drive and left hand drive versions. These are annotated with arrows and instructions to fill relevant holes with a caption stating ‘This kit!!!’. (The ‘cradle’ has holes for such things as a footrest that need filling in the relevant place.) One diagram is wrongly captioned - the fixing points of the wipers. Decal placement is shown by colour photographs that look as though they’ve been cut out by a meat-cleaving butcher with bad eyesight. I launched into the kit starting with the front radiator grill simply because the headlamp void on the body didn’t look quite right on the pre-launch photos I’d seen, but all seems well. This is neatly designed with a piece of etch to represent the grill that sits over a recess that I guess should be painted black. The radiator grills have been chromed which isn’t strictly correct as these were made of pressed aluminium. I did some modifications to my example and left it in a bath of bleach overnight. I got up next morning to check on it and wash off the bleach (that had no effect) and lost it down the plughole - how many of you can claim to be undoing p-traps and lifting manhole covers at 5.30am? I’ve got another kit on order to do a square light version anyway . . . Nick
  14. Ford Canada CMP of the 5th Canadian Armoured Division, 12th Infantry Battalion, 2nd Artillery co. - Italy, 1943 Finished just in time for New Years, my Peerless/Max Chevy 15CWT converted to a Ford CMP, hope you enjoy, and a belated Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year to everyone ! Colin - On CMP: - Modified from Chevy to Ford with Eduard's photo-etch grill, Ford instrument panel, "Ford Canada" and "Ford" logos on front - Detailed cab with rear internal structure, detailed Lee-Enfield .303 rifles, added slings (stowed behind seats), round Ford style clutch and brake pedals, shortened and modified seats and added leather texture and wrinkles, corrected/modified shift levers, hinged drivers door. Added side window mount brackets, sliding rear window handles, windshield wiper motors and wiring, front windshield opening adjusters, replaced windshield with clear acetate. Added wiper blades from brass wire. - Opened grill area, detailed rad and added shroud, added brake lines, spring shackles, fuel tank fill neck braces, corrected fuel tank supports to proper profile, scribed wood grain into load bed wooden panels, replaced canvass tie-down hooks with flattened wire, replaced canvass cover framework with brass tube and wire. Added padlock shackles to all stowage boxes, flattened tires. - On 6 Pound anti-tank gun: - Replaced all the tie-downs with fine copper wire, drilled out the elevation wheel, filled the sink holes in the carriage tongues and replaced the weld beads, drilled out tubes on spades, added pins and chains at the spade end and refined the spades, and on the forward splinter shield, made hinges on the lower shield and hooks and eyes from fine brass wire so that it is articulated. Painted with Tamiya acrylics (custom mix for the BCC 2 service brown), weathered with artist oils, artist Gauche, pastels, decals from kit and IPMS D-Day sheet.
  15. This is the original 15Cwt CMP and 6 pounder anti-tank gun from Peerless/Max. I know there are newer, better kits out there, but this is the one I have, and its fun seeing what I can do with it. On the gun, I've replaced all the tie-downs with fine copper wire, drilled out the elevation wheel, filled the sink holes in the carriage tongues and replaced the weld beads, added pins and chains at the spade end and refined the spades, and on the forward splinter shield, made hinges on the lower shield and hooks and eyes from fine brass wire so that it is articulated. On the CMP, I've opened up the grill and detailed the rad, added Eduard's grill, "Ford Canada" logo's, and instrument panel, hinged the doors, added lots of scratchbuilt bits from brass sheet, wire etc, added texture to the seats, added the pedals, engine hood latches from brass strip and wire, rope tie downs on the box, and scribed wood grain on every board on the box. (board by board by board - sheesh!) Also had to make canvas tarp frames from brass wire. Still lots to do, but its getting there. Hope you like, thanks for looking, Colin
  16. Deuces Wild

    Hey All Most of you know me for my aircraft models, however, I recently decided to shake things up a bit and build my second proper car model. This was a gift from a late friend of mine who was the recipient of my first proper car model and to whom this is dedicated. I present the Revell 1/24 (not 1/25 as the box says) 1932 Ford Roadster, enjoy... Overall a relatively unexciting build. No fit major fit issues to speak of except those of my own doing resulting from some custom work. The louvered hood was sanded smooth and left detachable to show off the engine. The engine (which is actually 1/25 scale... don't tell anyone) is a 302 V8 from a donor 1969 Z28 Camaro. This received a pre-wired distributor from Morgan Automotive Detail and finished off with custom exhaust and headers made from aluminium rod and tubing. The kit supplied chrome wheels were overpainted with Tamiya gloss red, which paired them rather smartly with the tires once the white walls were painted on. The interior was painted with a mix of flat hull red and gloss red for a nice wine coloured leather look. The body was primed with Tamiya semi-gloss black, which was then covered with two coats each of gloss black and clear. The steering wheel was painted and washed with various brown colours, then clear coated to give it a polished wood look. The chrome parts were then installed with the radiator grill receiving a dark wash to give it some depth and the kit windshield being replaced with clear acetate. Finally, the body was cleaned and polished with Novus #1 For those of you wondering this build was not sponsored by Tamiya , it was simply an experiment in thinning Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner, and might I say I am very impressed with the results. By using lacquer thinner, I was able to lay down heavier and thus smoother coats of paint compared to previous attempts using X20A thinner. Not bad for an aircraft guy eh? Anyway, the usual comments, questions and criticisms are always welcome (just don't mention the dust, I am well aware that half my room ended up in the paintwork ) Regards
  17. Well she's finished save for a couple of small details. WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234987216-ford-escort-rs-cosworth-group-a-rally/ Kit was Tamiya's Michelin Pilot version with Shunko decals to build the Monte Carlo 1993 car. Slight troubles with the decals mainly on the bumper corners but from a distance it looks good. Will weather in the future when those skills have been honed a bit more. Anywho pics Ahoy: Thanks for looking and to those that have followed the build. As always comments are always welcome lol TTFN Ashley.
  18. So I'm back again with a more focused modelling interest this time so hopefully no more stalled builds haha. Right onwards we go. The kit is as the title suggests: I got this as part of a large collection I brought earlier this year. The kit included thus: yes that is a Riko tube of glue lol and a renaissance WRC transkit for Didier Auriol's 1999 car. The reason for the transkit is as follows: However though I would love to build a WRC spec escort, I don't find Auriol's livery exciting and would much prefer either of the Factory one's. So I decided to treat this elderly kit to a shiny new decals sheet courtesy of Shunko Models: So onto the building process. Firstly I am prepping the body shell for painting and decaling whilst I finish another kit. This is how the body looks before priming, with all the parts attached: The Whaletail spoiler is only held on with bluetac to allow the central support to be glued in place. Of interest is that the no.6 car of Francois Delecour has only one sideview mirror whereas Miki Biasion's no.2 car had both mirrors. Can you tell which I'm building haha. I'm building the Monte Carlo 1993 car as I have a few others to build from this event. (Celica and Lancer, if I could find decals to make Sainz's Delta it would complete the set lol) I have also prepared all the parts that will end up white, like the chassis and rollcage etc. Hopefully progress wont be too slow lol TTFN
  19. Mustang Car STGB 2016

    Hi Everyone, Just wondering whether anyone would be interested in a Mustang group build for 2016? I am sitting here watching a Supercars program on the mustang from NatGeo HD and it has set me thinking about building another Mustang. My proposal is that you can build any model of Mustang, any era, any colour etc. Let me know if you would be interested. Lets bring the horses to life and launch the Pony Express EDIT : This is know a Mustang Car STGB. So anything 4 wheeled with the name Mustang are viable choices. PARTICIPANTS LIST 1) Rickpadwick1801 2) MadSteve 3) Graham77 4) depressed lemur 5) richellis 6) Suicide Badger 7) snapper_city 7 down, 8 to go. Cheers, Rick
  20. Gentlemen, Having a really soft spot for the naval aviaition of the 1950s and 60s, adding a "Ford" to my collection was a mere formality. Since I was a kid, recularly spending some of my pocket money for Buck Danny comics, the shape of the F4D has been quite familiar to me - back then the delta-winged F4D looked so cool. TAMIYA's quarterscale F4D had been around for some years, when I eventually had the opportunity to tackle one of these kits. Douglas F4D-1, VF-213 "Blacklions", USS Lexington 1957 In order to further improve an already great kit, I added a CMK cockpit set and Eduard PEs. The kit's decals were replaced by an AeroMaster sheet - AeroMaster #48-542, "F4D-1 Skyrays Part 2" The paintjob was accomplished using Gunze Mr.HOBBY colour acrylics, applying only restrained post-shadings and subtle weathering effects. The AIM-9B Sidewinders were taken from a Hasegawa weapons set. Cheers, Erik
  21. Hello guys, This is my first and only car build so far, really enjoyer building it. Here it is: Thank you for looking...
  22. 1997 Ford Thunderbird NASCAR #94 Driven by Bill Elliott Sponsored by McDonalds Started this one some time ago and had to put it away for a while as frustration levels grew. Finally getting it finished a couple of weekends ago. Just the one photo as its a build for a well known on-line magazine and is due to be appearing as a complete build soon.
  23. Ford Aircraft Tug

    Ford Aircraft Tug, pictured at Cosford by Rich.
  24. Ford Fiesta RS WRC 1:32nd scale Airfix In 2011, the FIA brought in a new set of Regulations for the World Rally Championship (WRC). Chief among these changes were the rules regarding the cars themselves. The previous Super 2000 category was scraped and the 2.0 litre engines were replaced by smaller 1.6 ltr units. The power plants would still be turbocharged and restrictors fitted to the air intake system would limit power to around 300 BHP. This power would be transmitted through a permanent 4-wheel drive, 6-speed sequential transmission and would propel the cars from 0-60 in around 3 seconds, on any type of surface. Ford have had a long association with the WRC and with the new rule changes, they chose to enter a new car. The Focus had been their challenger since 1999 and it was a very popular vehicle on the stages. Over the years, it was driven by the likes of Colin McRae, Carlos Sainz, Markko Martin, Marcus Gronholm, Mikko Hirvonen and more recently, Jari-Matti Latvala. For the 2011 season, Ford debuted the Fiesta RS WRC (RS standing for Rallye Sport). The cars were prepared and run by Malcolm Wilsons M-Sport outfit. Aside from the factory team, the cars were also supplied to a good number of smaller outfits and privateer teams. The kit Airfix have produced many car kits in the past and perhaps the most well known are their range of classic 1/32nd scale automobiles. After Hornbys purchase of the company in 2006, Airfix once again returned to this scale, with the release of a couple of modern Sports Car racers (the Aston Martin DBR9 and the Jaguar XKR GT3). They have now entered the WRC arena with the release of the 2012 Ford Fiesta RS WRC rally car. The kit arrives in the now familiar modern Airfix, top opening, red box. Adorning the box lid is a very attractive illustration of Petter Solbergs Fiesta, at speed, on a stage of the Monte Carlo rally. When we open the box, we are greeted with 3 sprues of grey styrene parts, a separately bagged sprue of clear pieces and a one piece body shell, moulded in white. An 8 page instruction sheet is supplied, which features clear assembly steps, with colour call-outs for Humbrol paints, along the way. The paint and decal guide is illustrated with some very nice digital images of the WRC Fiesta. Construction begins with the chassis. The lower monocoque is a 1 piece moulding, which features some conservative detailing on the underside (sump and transmission guards, plus some fine riveting for example).On the reverse side, is attached a single piece interior floor moulding, which has a nice rendition of the pressed metal floor pans, as well as some electrical boxes and cabling, plus the spare wheel well moulded into it. Each corner of the chassis receives its own wheel arch liner and once they are set in place, the suspension parts can be added. These are simple 2 piece assemblies, comprising of a lower wishbone (which has part of the hub moulded in situ), to which you cement a shock absorber/coil spring unit. The sprue attachment points on these shock parts are quite heavy, so some care is required in their removal. To prevent breakage, I would suggest using a fine razor saw, rather than clippers. With the suspenion parts in place, the next order of business is the wheels and tyres. As is common for Airfix automobiles, the tyres are styrene, rather than vinyl or rubber and they are moulded integrally with the O.Z. Rally rims. Of course, one advantage to this, is the fact that you can file flat spots on the bottom of the tyres, to give the car a more convincing sit. The inside sidewall of the tyres have to be added, as they are separate pieces. The tyres themselves, have no tread pattern, being more akin to racing slicks. Not a problem for a dry tarmac stage. If you require something a bit groovy, though, then some replacements will need to be sourced (from the Scalextric range, perhaps). A grooved disc, complete with caliper detail, is added to the inside of each wheel and then they can be fixed to the chassis. We return to the interior for the next few stages. One thing to note here, is that Airfix suggest gloss white for the majority of the interior, where I believe it should in fact be a painted glossy aluminium colour. Once the various parts have been painted, construction can continue. The spare wheel drops into its recess, in the rear of the cabin. The drivers compartment is then kitted out with a good amount of equipment, which includes the drivers foot pedals, co-drivers footrest, fire extinguisher, electronic timing screen, handbrake and sequential gear levers and some electrical cabling. From studying pictures of the real car, about the only thing I can see missing is the mobile phone, which in this scale would be tiny, anyway. The steering column has the digital display added, before fitting the Sparco steering wheel. This assembly is then cemented to the underside of the dashboard. The completed dash has a long tab on the underneath, which fits into a location slot in the tub. The Recaro bucket seats are a little over simplified, detail wise, but Airfix have captured the basic shape, quite well. If you really wanted too, you could build the bolsters up using plastic card or something like Milliput. With the small scale however, I suspect you wont see too much when the model is closed up, anyway. One nice addition, is the inclusion of moulded 5 point harnesses. Once youve painted them blue and picked out the buckles in silver, they simply drop into place in the seat. Very neat. Once that is done, the seats can be fixed in position and then the roll cage can be built up. Airfix have moulded this in 5 parts; an upper, a rear, a single cross brace section and then the 2 sides. To their credit, it is quite finely done, so once again, take care when removing the pieces from the sprue. The instructions correctly point out that the forward A-pillar braces of the cage, should be painted black. Note here though, that the rest of the cage should be the same aluminium shade as the rest of the interior (not white, as Airfix suggest). With the cage in position, you can add the other parts of the harnesses. There are 2 pieces representing the shoulder straps, from their mounting points on the rear cage, going up to the slots in the back of the seats. They have a realistic sag moulded into them and they should look very good, once painted and added. This is a lovely little addition, which I like, very much. With the interior completed, the last job to do on the chassis is the addition of 2 mud/stone guards, which locate at the rear underside and cover the openings for the rear suspension. These can be seen hanging down on the underside of the real thing, when the car is airborne. These parts are a little on the thick side and could be thinned down along their edges, for a more realistic appearance, if so desired. Once they have been fixed in position, we can turn our attention to the body shell. As mentioned previously, Airfix have moulded the shell in one piece and a very nice job they have done of it, too. Theyve really captured the lines of this little beastie, very well. Surface detail is nicely restrained, with finely engraved panel gaps and joins, plus some perfectly acceptable raised bonnet and boot locking pins. Of course, with a one piece body, you have to expect some mould separation lines, but here they are so fine that only the minimal amount of clean up will be required. I have seen far worse on larger kits, with much bigger price tags. One area that is a little lacking, is the paint guide for the body. Airfix do supply those lovely digital images of the car, but they are geared more towards the decal application. You are left to work out yourself, exactly what needs painting. As far as I can work out, the body should be painted in the blue shade first (Airfix suggest Humbrol no14, but that seems maybe a tad too light, to me). Then it should be masked up and the black areas on the roof, running down the A-pillars and onto the bonnet, should be painted. Everything else (save for the smaller details) appears to be supplied on the decal sheet. With the paint applied, the body shell has a number of items to finish it off. There are inserts for the bonnet vents and the front grilles. A pair of door pull handles are added to the interior of the shell, along with the glass panels. Airfix have separated these into 4 sections, for an easier fit (windscreen, 2 lots of side windows and rear screen). The headlight and tail light lenses are also supplied on the clear sprue. The headlamps have their bezels moulded onto the reverse side of the lens. Another thoughtful little touch. You can paint the bezels with silver, on the back side, which should give a nice look to the lenses, when viewed from the front. The rear lenses need tinting with clear red, not forgetting to leave the reversing lamp lens clear, of course. This would seem a good point to fit the shell onto the chassis. The body is quite sturdy with not a lot of give in it. That combined with the complex shape and the bulky interior, makes me think that it could be quite tricky to persuade the shell into place. Once fixed, the smaller, more fragile items can be attached. The roof has 2 vents to be added. At the rear, the 2 piece spoiler needs painting black and then fixing to the tailgate. The final items are the wipers, the door mirrors and the various antenna on the roof. The aerials are a little thick, here and would be well replaced with some fine metal wire or stretched sprue. The decal sheet is a lovely item. Airfix have employed the services of Cartograf, once more, so the quality is assured. The images are pin sharp, with all the sponsor logos and markings, perfectly legible. Colours are bold and appear accurate and the carrier film has been kept to a minimum around the edges of each decal. Markings are supplied for either the No3 car of Jari-Matti Latvala or the No4 machine of Petter Solberg, from the 2012 Monte Carlo Rally. Conclusion This is a super little kit and represents excellent value for money. It is simple enough to be enjoyed as a quick, weekend build, yet it possesses enough detail to produce a very nice model straight out of the box. With some extra detailing and refinements, you could end up with a stunning little replica of a modern piece of WRC machinery. Im looking forward to getting stuck into this one. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Pictures of a Ford D1000 4x2 tractor unit.