Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'acrylic'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar

Forums

  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modelling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling
    • Group Builds
    • The Rumourmonger
    • Other Modelling Genres
    • Britmodeller Yearbooks
    • Tools & Tips
  • General Discussion
    • Chat
    • Shows
    • Photography
    • Members' Wishlists
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
    • Aeroclub Models
    • Air-Craft.net
    • AJ Aviation - Jan & Tony
    • A.M.U.R. Reaver
    • Atlantic Models
    • Bernd.M Modellbau
    • BlackMike Models
    • Casemate UK
    • Collett's Model Shop
    • Copper State Models
    • Creative Models Ltd
    • DACO Products
    • Freightdog Models
    • Gizzmo Heaven
    • Hannants
    • Hobby Colours & Accessories
    • Hobby Paint'n'Stuff
    • Hypersonic Models
    • Iliad Design
    • Japan:Cool
    • Kagero Publishing
    • Kingkit
    • L'Arsenal 2.0
    • Modellingtools.co.uk
    • Maketar Paint Masks
    • Marmaduke Press Decals
    • MikroMir
    • Mirage Hobby
    • MJW Models
    • The Hobby Shack
    • Models4Hobby
    • Models R Go
    • NeOmega & Vector Resin
    • Parkes682Decals
    • Pheon Models
    • Pocketbond Limited
    • Precision Ice and Snow
    • Radu Brinzan Productions
    • Red Roo Models
    • Relish Models
    • SBS Model - Hungary
    • Scale-Model-Kits.com
    • Scale Model Shop Ltd
    • Small Stuff Models
    • Sovereign Hobbies
    • Special Hobby
    • Sphere Products
    • Starling Models
    • Stormfront Models
    • StoryModels.com
    • The Hobby Den
    • The Real Model Shop
    • Thunderbird Models
    • Tiger Hobbies
    • Tirydium Models
    • Topnotch - Bases and Masks for Models
    • Ultimate Modelling Products
    • Valiant Wings Publishing
    • Videoaviation Italy
    • White Ensign Models
    • Wild House Models
    • Wonderland Models
  • Archive
    • 2007 Group Builds
    • 2008 Group Builds
    • 2009 Group Builds
    • 2010 Group Builds
    • 2011 Group Builds
    • 2012 Group Builds
    • 2013 Group Builds

Categories

  • New Features
  • Other

Found 25 results

  1. Grainy acrylics?

    Hi folks, I've only just come back to scale modelling after a 25 year gap, so taking it slowly! I've started out with a 1:72 Spitfire and I'm finding that my paint in some areas/colours is really grainy - I'm using Humbrol Acrylics and brushes (I never graduated to an airbrush!) Is this 'grainy texture' due to not mixing the paint enough, not thinning enough, or just duff paint? Any ideas or tips greatly appreciated!
  2. So this is from the new range of metallics released by Mission Models along with their aircraft shades. Courtesy of @TIGER HOBBIESLIMITED I will be starting some tomcats to use the US FS greys soon, but I have a move coming up which is likely to delay those, so thought I'd give this a quick blast for the 'Russia with love' group build. (This build was planned to wear Revell aqua - eg cockpit was already done) So about the paint- This build was primed in the gloss black stynylrez, another new product to me, to make this an all acrylic NMF. (Link for gloss stynylrez at bottom of the post) The mission metals are quite thin and not very 'dense' out of the bottle when compared to their other paints that come thick. This is down to the nature of the pigments that they use from one shade to the next as per their 'tip and tricks' on their website. It also says to build up and spray the metals in light coats. I can confirm this, the paint is thin enough to spray straight from the bottle. Lots of light coats are the best way. They dry much quicker too then and less time for a chance of dust or fluff settling on the paint. I went into double figures for this level of coverage. A bit tedious but the results are worth it. Perhaps a grey primer would have been better and not required as many layers? Anyways, despite having double figures coats of paint all the detail is still perfectly crisp as the paint really shrinks back and levels out once the carrier has evaporated and/or flashed of. I also speeded each layer up with a hairdryer on a low setting. Now for some pics. Tried to get a few different angles to catch the light and change the shade. I think it looks pretty good. Nice and smooth at normal viewing distances. Some of the close ups are a touch grainy but no acrylic NMF will withstand that much scrutiny. On the undersides I went bold with the coverage when spraying to try and see how forgiving the paint is. You can almost get one coat coverage of the black, but it required me to flood the surface that much that all the panel lines and rivets disappeared. Once it dried they all returned but the finish wasn't that great (as expected) so light coats and patience is definitely the way to go. I am going to do another NMF with these soon, but may start with a lighter primer and do some colour variation using this aluminium again and then a few mixed darker shades with the 'cold rolled steel' (gunmetal) added to do a patchwork type finish. UPDATE: steel and burnt iron. More in post #14 below: Thanks for looking! Gloss black stynylrez:
  3. Gloss Black Stynylrez tried out!

    Gloss black stynylrez! Trying this out as a base coat for acrylic NMF. Initial thoughts at bottom, Quite happy with it. First few coats were dusted on. Then it can have heavier wet coats. Left to dry naturally results in a higher gloss (drop tank) I flashed the airframe off with a hairdrier as was in a rush last night, force drying it results in a more satin sheen. But good enough for this quick (Eduard 1/72 Mig-15Uti) group build (Sunday deadline)
  4. Hey, After laying my hands on a 1/350 water line model I started wondering what products there could be for seascape modelling? A short google and youtube search brought up MIG, AK and Vallejo products but barely any comparison. Other than the price, is any of these better/worse than the others? Also, if you might care to share your approach to modelling waves and water that would be very useful to a beginner like me, for sure. Many thanks! Cristian
  5. Brush Painting Model Air

    How well does Vallejo Model Air brush paint? I have it in my head that it is formulated for airbrushing but does that mean it is sort of pre-thinned and does that give it a consistency anything like their regular acrylic with a dollop of flow improver added?
  6. I'm not sure if anyone will be interested in this but… A couple of years ago I noticed that colours/shades on the Tamiya lids and paint charts didn't match the actual paint. So I used strips of plastic card to spray each colour to get an accurate swatch. It was a long BORING job, but it was well worth, it as I refer to it on almost every build I do. Out of interest, yesterday I superimposed the colour shown on a Tamiya paint chart, with a scan of my colour swatch. Admittedly, my monitor is not colour calibrated, but the differences shown, match my experiences of matching the paint lids with the colour on the model. As you can see, the only exact matches are black, white and XF-12. Some are quite close, but the majority are well off. Does anyone know why this is the case?
  7. Is it possible to use White Spirit to remove around 2 thin coats of acrylic paint on a model? Will it damage or eat through the plastic? If it's not safe, please suggest other alternatives other than Fairy Spray, as I've already tried that without any luck because of the new bottles.
  8. Humbrol Acrylic Paint

    Humbrol Acrylic Paint Humbrol Humbrol is a brand name synonymous with scale modelling. With a long and rich history in the hobby, there won’t be many British modellers who have never prised open a tin of their enamel paint, squeezed a tube of their polystyrene cement or dipped one of their paint brushes in a tin of their thinners. Their history is intertwined with that of another iconic brand too – Airfix. Humbrol have had a range of acrylic paints available alongside their long-standing enamel paint range for some time. Now that they have moved most of their manufacturing back to the UK, it seems a good time to take a look at some of them. Humbrol have sent a box containing a sample of acrylics in 14ml plastic pots. The following colours were inside: 9 – Tan (gloss) 12 – Copper (metallic) 18 – Orange (gloss) 20 – Crimson (gloss) 38 – Lime (gloss) 52 – Baltic Blue (metallic) 67 – Tank Grey (matt) 86 – Light Olive (matt) 94 – Brown Yellow (matt) 155 – Olive Drab (matt) 191 – Chrome Silver (metallic) 237 – Desert Tan (matt) 238 – Arrow Red (gloss) 239 – British Racing Green (gloss) Humbrol acrylics are water based, which makes them easy to use indoors where the odour of enamel paints and associated thinners can be a problem. The 12ml pots are nicely designed, and it’s possible to remove the screw-top lids and access the paints without spilling the contents everywhere. Once opened, they can be brush painted or airbrushed, and can be thinned with water or isopropyl alcohol. The paint is reasonably thick though, so a minute or so invested in stirring the contents will be well spent. I’m a fairly dedicated user of acrylic paints already, although Tamiya and Mr Colour are my favoured brands. That said, Tamiya’s range is far from comprehensive and Mr Colour is hard to get hold of in the UK, so I’m always open to the possibilities offered by different brands. I tried spraying this Humbrol acrylic with my Iwata Revolution airbrush, having thinned it with Tamiya’s X-20A thinner. I’m happy to report that it sprayed very nicely indeed, with good colour density and adhesion. I applied it to one of Airfix’s resin buildings, but I hope to try it on injection moulded plastic soon. Conclusion You can’t really fault Humbrol for the range of colours that they have available, particularly if, like me, you are used to thinking in Humbrol from a youth spend gluing Airfix kits together. They appear to spray and cover well too. Of course if you have Humbrol’s excellent work station (reviewed here), then these little pots will fit perfectly into that too. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Stripping Tamiya Acrylic?

    Hello . In the midst of waiting for some thinners to arrive to continue my Y-Wing build, my thoughts wandered to an unfinished 1/35 Dragon M1A2 SEP I'd put in the garage. I still have all the parts for it (though it would probably take me a while to discover exactly what I put together and haven't) and I figured this might be a good opportunity to use some of my greater knowledge to fix it up and finish it. Part of that process is to repaint it with sprays, masking it off for the camo scheme. Currently, the main parts are done in tri-colour NATO, which I hand-painted from the jars. I'd like to redo it in the same scheme with spray cans at some point, but I'd also like to try and restart the painting completely by resetting to the bare plastic. The current paint layer is pretty thin so spraying over probably won't make much difference to detailing, but all the same...does anyone know of a plastic-friendly, easily obtainable means of stripping the paint? I've seen some suggesting IPA, but others say its difficult to obtain. Would these methods also fog up clear parts or affect the glue (that's partly degraded in some places, which was a bit of a happy flaw in the end )? Cheers in advance
  10. Hello I am new here. I am more of an 'inventor' than a model-maker. I am looking for the best materials with which to do quick prototypes in order to test the functional qualities of various designs of new/inventive products. I recently watched this video: "Tutorial: The Basics of Working With Styrene" by CustomsByZ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3gabIJ3Ono And I was rather inspired by it - I had forgotten how quick it is to knock up designs in styrene! However, given that I am more interested in mechanical function than in appearance (e.g. the ability to take paint), is there a better material for me to work in? i.e. I know styrene is rather soft so I am wondering if there are any other plastics that are available in reasonably cheap sheet and extruded form, that are similarly easy to work with (particularly to quickly form a very strong bond) but which have better/stronger mechanical properties? For now I will not be vacuum forming (unless wait, can I do that at home in my oven??), but will be cutting (with sharp X-Acto blades or similar / hack saw), filing, sanding, drilling. e.g. I just bought: A. Plasticard a small pack of Plasticard white styrene sheets "a quality virgin grade material" (from Station Road Baseboards ) http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TWOHJE0/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item B. EMA Plastic Weld And I am planning to bond it with "Plastruct EMA Plastic Weld - Liquid Polystyrene ABS Cement" http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121672870352 (as I couldn't find any "Ambroid Pro Weld" described in the US-based video - but I understand that they are both Methyl Chloride based, yes?) C. Plastic Fusion For stronger bonds I have also bought Plastic Fusion epoxy glue from Super Glue which apparently sets in 10 minutes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261508621516 but obviously it's slight pain mixing it up. QUESTIONS: - How does ABS compare to Styrene, mechanically? - HIPS (High Impact PolyStyrene) vs. regular "styrene"? Are there any other plastics I might consider if I need something stronger/more springy etc but which are reasonably easy to machine and easily available e.g. - Polypropylene sheet - PE (Polyethylene High Density) - Nylon6 sheet - Acrylic ?? Also what are the pros & cons if/when I need some thing transparent: - Polycarbonate - PETG (Poly-Ethylene Terephthalate Glycol) - Perspex Acrylic - Acetate - Axpet Polyester Sheet Acrylic ?? And how well do all the above respond to extremely strong quick-setting glues/solvents/cements? On reflection, I think I need quick primer on material for model & prototype building...! Any quick thoughts? J
  11. Airbrush Paint Thinning?

    Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  12. Hello everybody, did anyone succeed in airbrushing Humbrol acrylics? I found this paint cannot be thinned with ethanol, my favorite airbrush-thinner. It rather turns into a sludge or does not disolve in the ethanol. Water, on the other hand, works very well with Humbrol acrylics. Citadel seems to be similar in this aspect. But I never succeeded in airbrushing anything thinned with water, as the paint immediately forms beads or tiny puddles on the model's surface. I have more or less the same problem with water, water with detergent, window cleaner (a German variety, I can't get Windex here, but it is probably similar) and even 70% IPA (=30% water). The problem seems to be that the water does not evaporate soon after hitting the surface as other, more volatile thinners do. On the other hand, I often read that people are using water or water-containing thinners for airbrush, so i wonder how it works. Ands sometimes it would be nice to be able to spray Humbrol or Citadel. Actually, the problem arose with a Folland Gnat that I had planned to spray with a Citadel silver (looks better than Tamiya's) and Humbrol's Fluorescent Red. Do you have any experince on this subjects? Thanks in advance, Ole
  13. We have now got in the Four New Vallejo Game Air Colours. Vallejo 72769 - Flesh Vallejo 72770 - Burned Flesh Vallejo 72771 - Barbarian Flesh Vallejo 72772 - Red Terracotta The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow.
  14. Just a quick note to say we've restocked and expanded on the range of Hataka and Ammo of Mig paint sets. We now stock not just the Aircraft related sets but also the Armour related sets too. http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk/hataka-hobby-293-c.asp http://www.mjwmodels.co.uk/ammo-of-mig-291-c.asp thanks Mike
  15. Hi fellow modellers. I have just used Future as a gloss coat for the first time. I normally use Enamel or Lacquer glosscoats that I would weather easily with acrylic/water based washes and chalk/pastel water sludges My question now is this...... With Future being acrylic .........what are my choices now for weathering????? Can I still use watered down acrylics or will that soften/remove the Future coat? Should I now used thinned enamels or oils for washes and panel lines. But what do I thin them with and clean them up with?? What about the pre-made stuff like Flory or Tamiya washes? Are they suitable for using on a Klear topcoat??? if so what can you safely clean them off with? I understand you shouldn't use ammonia based anything on Future to clean up (I believe) but is Isopropyl Alcohol or Methylated spirits okay. Is MicroSol and Micro Set still okay for settling decals that have been applied on a Future gloss coat Can you use water to clean up at all on a dried Furture Top coat or is that just not on. Any list of fluids/materials/thinning agents/weathering agents/solvents/aftermarket or specialist products etc that can be used safely for weathering and panel line highlights on a Future gloss coat would be greatly appreciated. Happy modelling everyone! Cheers Bruce
  16. What paint brand to use (acrylic)

    This is my first post here on brimodeller and im fairly new to modelling (just finished a airfix starter) and im getting a 1/48 model soon but im wondering what paint brand to use for acrylic but i dont have an airbrush and will not be getting one soon so what brand is good for brush painting acrylics oh and if you dont mind answering are humbrol brushes good
  17. Some time ago I settled on Vallejo and find I'm fairly competent at airbrushing both Air and Model colour through my Iwatas; I prefer Air, but if I thin the Model Color with plain water and a drop or two of artists flow enhancer, it goes on OK. For the first time, I just tried some Vallejo fluorescent stuff, and couldn't make it work. Even adding more water and half a dozen drops of flow enhancer failed to prevent it from clogging up very quickly. And what gets onto the model is very thin, watery, feeble stuff. Is there a special technique? I wanted to use an Airfix aerosol fluo colour but blasted Antics in Bristol were out of stock yesterday... Thanks, Tony
  18. Luftwaffe Colours 2 AK Interactive Paints can be a very personal item to the modeller who can and will stick with one particular manufacturer or at the very least a specific type. The choice of paint in the current market is huge. Well, now there is another set of acrylic paints to choose from, released by AK Interactive, who are probably better known for their weathering products and are also increasing their line of paint. The set comes in an end opening box, with the 17ml plastic bottles contained in a plastic tray inside. This set has been designed for German aircraft, and contains eight Luftwaffe colours, RLM 72 RLM 73 RLM 78 RLM 79 RLM 80 RLM 81 RLM 82 RLM 83 According to the blurb on the bottles they can be both brushed or airbrushed which please a lot of modellers. Once the bottles have been shaken very well colour density looks pretty good, and if they are anything like their armour colours they spray and cover well. Although I haven’t used them with a brush, I cannot see why you shouldn’t be able to get a good finish with them. On the back of the box there is a useful colour chart of which colours go together and depict six aircraft in various schemes. These being two desert schemes for the Me-109, one for an F and one for a G, one scheme for the Arado Ar-196, one for the Junker Ju-52, (the float equipped version being shown), one for the Arado Ar-234 and one scheme for the Fw-190D. Also included in the package AK interactive sent to us were two bottles of thinners. The standard thinners, in a 60ml bottle is specifically for thinning the paints when using an airbrush and, according to the information on the side of the bottle has been designed to prevent clogging and jamming. The second bottle contains 100ml of what AK Interactive call their Nitro Thinners, a nitrocellulose based thinners which can be used with, again, according to the information on the bottle ,any other brand of acrylic paint. It can also be used to clean brushes and air brushes after use. How well either of these thinners works will only be known when I use them, which will probably be on my next build. After which I will be able amend this review accordingly Conclusion This is another set of very useful and well thought out selection of paint colours. The ease of use I’ve had with their previous paints should mean that when I get to use them the results will be just as pleasing. Since my next build will be for a review, it will be good to try these products at the same time. Highly recommended, subject to testing Paint set Thinners Nitro Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  19. I purchased a set of testors acrylic paints a while back. I have used one of the paints - Metallic Silver with code number of 1921575 on my klatest build. I am just about to run out, and can't seem to find this paint as an individual pot. I can only find it in the set, which of course, is about $14, and I haven't touched most of the other colors in the set, so I am going to end up with duplicate colors that will never get used. Does anyone know if Testors offer this particular silver in any other format?
  20. Last week, I got my hands on some "artists" acrylics. According to the label they are water based. I am doing a custom mix for my build and just mixed up a new batch of pseudo silver - the color looked great. Now the issue! As it comes out of the bottle/tube, it's far too thick to airbrush. I added IPA to thin the mixture down and what do you know, the mix turned into some kind of gloopy plasticky mess. So I tried a little experimenting: Artist Acrylic + IPA = gloopy plasticky mess Artist Acrylic + Acetone = another, but different gloopy plasticky mess Artist Acrylic + water = a solution which appears to thin down nicely without too much issue. Artist Acrylic + Alclad thinner = almost no mixing at all My question is: Is it okay to use standard H2O as a thinning medium when airbrushing? I am worried that it will not evaporate fast enough when airbrushing and I will end up with runs, or some other issues. Does anyone else use water as a thinning medium when airbrushing? Any advise?
  21. Oil and acrylic?

    Having recently returned to model building after many years I'm very interested in the advances that have been made in detailing and finishing of kits. In the painting arena I'm taken with the whole idea of the oil wash to bring out detail but can't shake off the art and decorating training that says oil and water-based paints don't like each other much. In particularly I'm intrigued by the order in which one applies the oil wash to a model. It seems that many people add this wash after decalling but do you then go on to apply a finish coat, say a matt one, after the wash? If the paints are acrylic and the final coat is acrylic how does it react with the oil? My knowledge of paints says that acrylic should not be applied over oil. What do you do? Perhaps the thinning of the oil prevents it being too sticky and most of it is in the panel lines etc but it seems to me any residue will undermine a topcoat that is water-based. What's the general experience in the application order of the finishing coats? Cheers.
  22. I'm flitting between enamels & acrylics as I get more into my airbrush. I've been using rattle can cleaner, which seems to strip everything (including dissolving the nitrile disposable gloves I was wearing!) but I've got some Vallejo airbrush cleaner on order. Will this work if I switch back to enamel, as I did this afternoon? Thx & happy Christmas one & all Andrew
  23. Wall Hanging Paint Rack (Acrylic) Sphere Products We've known about Sphere for a while, and their MDF racks and fittings have been reviewed here before. Their engineering is very nice, and they work just like they're supposed to. Jon Page let me have one of their newer products, which has made a jump from sheet MDF to crystal clear Acrylic, which to me adds a great deal of class to their products. The racks can be configured as you like it to fit your chosen paint pots, from Gunze through Humbrol to Xtracrylix, and it's the latter that he let me have for review. The racks are provided in kit form from the factory to reduce postage, and mine arrived in a recycled box wrapped carefully and ensconced within a thick gauge Ziploc bag with two further bags within to protect the small parts from the large and vice versa. In the bag were three large pieces of acrylic with their protective peel-off sheet still attached on one side, packed in a way that naked acrylic doesn't rub together. In one of the smaller bags were a pair of notched uprights, and in the other, the hardware to lock the parts together, including a little Allen key to ensure you don't have to scrabble round your toolbox looking for the right one. That immediately scored brownie points with me. One large sheet is decked out with two slots at the narrow ends, with a pair of lugs cut out from the top to accommodate the screws needed to attach them to the wall. The other two parts have the same slots, plus 66 paint-pot sized holes in them, cut at a very slight angle so that they line up and hold the paint at a slight upward tilt to stop them sliding out. The end pieces have the tabs that slide into the long slots, plus some complex little grooves that accommodate the bolts and retain the nuts that pull everything together. The hardware consists of eight dome topped Allen bolts, eight washers, and eight nuts, all M3 sized, in case you need replacements. Construction is simple. Peel off the protective layer, place the clear sheet at the back, and drop the holy sheet without the logo on top of it, ensuring the holes are pointing up toward the fixing lugs. The slide the long tabs on the end pieces into the slots, securing them with a nut/washer/long bolt combination from the back. Then drop the remaining sheet onto the tabs, with the logo at the back, so the words are readable. Secure that with the remaining shorter bolt/washer/nut combination, and ensure it's all tightened up with your free Allen key. That's it! You've done it. All you need to do is place the rack level on your wall, mark two Xs and drill/plug or drywall bolt it onto your wall. My workshop walls are chipboard, so it was a piece of cake for me. You'll notice from the photos that I've written the paint codes on the bottle tops to help me find the correct bottle, as that's the one downside of these racks. Get yourself a fine permanent marker and you're ok though. Conclusion The acrylic is beautifully finished, with all sides polished to a high sheen. The design is very clever, and the resulting paint rack is an incredibly space-conscious way of storing your paint on the wall. My rack is less than a quarter of the size that it used to be, and all my doubles are now in a small box somewhere out of the way. The one drawback? I think I have the full range of Xtracrylix, and there are perhaps another 24+ paints from the Armour range that won't be in this new rack. If it had enough holes for the full range, it would be just about perfect. My thanks to Jon for providing us with the sample, and for including my new 000 Windsor & Newton Series 7 brush in the package to save me postage. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  24. Cold War Soviet paint colors

    What are appropriate colors to use for painting those camouflaged Cold War-era MiG-23s in straight-up Soviet service? I am not a good paint mixer (as I am an excellent paint spiller), and I really only use acrylics, so "close enough" is probably fine. I see Testors/Polly (easily available here in the land of milk and honey that is northern Illinois) have some Soviet aircraft colors (Soviet Green, Soviet Khaki, Soviet Sand), but are these what I need?
  25. Good Build going Bad - Help

    Help! My Spit Va was coming on nicely. I was losing my fear of the spray gun and somehow worked out the consistency of mixing Tamiya acrylics with X-20A. Then DISASTER! I wanted to seal the underside which I had panted with XF-21. I sprayed a light coat of Plasti-kote Super MATT. The "Sky Green" now looks wrong and blotchy??? I have a tin of Plasti-kote Super - should I have used this. Everyone talks about using Johnson's Polish but as we all know you can't buy it in the UK. Life was easy when I worked in enamels as a boy. Sigh. A tin of Paint also lasted longer. My first attempt at spray painting was a disaster. I thinned the paint too much. Thank goodness for Tesco's Everyday Cleaner. I was able to start again. Now on my second bottle of Tamiya things were looking up until I sealed it. By the way. Working in 1/48 how long should a bottle of paint last if its a main colour. Yes I know that there are lots of variables, but some rule of thumb would be nice. BUILD GRINNDED TO A HALT – PLEASE HELP Thanks
×