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Found 13 results

  1. Since @Duncan Bseems to be having so much fun with his wee Modelcollect tank, I thought I would jump on the bandwagon. I mean it's not as if I have another dozen or so builds on the go already I knew I had this old M1 Abrams in the loft, so I dug it out: Esci M1 Abrams by jongwinnett, on Flickr Opening the box was a pleasant surprise - I had expected rubber bands but there's a neat (if somewhat simplified) set of link and length tracks. Esci M1 Abrams by jongwinnett, on Flickr The multipart hull is not particularly easy to put together, being thin, wobbly and lacking positive location points. It needed superglue and accelerator to fix it as it was impossible to clamp. It seemed best to crack on and fit the deck and rear panel, to give it all some structure: Esci M1 Abrams by jongwinnett, on Flickr Before closing up I noticed the hull was leaning inwards so I fitted a spreader bar from evergreen strip - seen here just aft the drivers compartment (if you look closely!) Esci M1 Abrams by jongwinnett, on Flickr It lacks the fine detail of a modern kit, and fit is challenging, but I'm hopeful this is going to build up into a decent early M1
  2. Question for the Abrams experts

    Hey, I was looking at the new Tamiya M1A2 Abrams kits that were released last year in different scales and these all use the same paint scheme: flat sand. Have these vehicles ever been painted in the three-tone NATO camouflage, for instance? Or any other scheme, for that matter? Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  3. Abrams Deflector and Tow Bar

    Quick question. When an Abrams carries its tow bar on the rear, can it also be fitted with the exhaust deflector, or is it a one or the other situation? If so, where else might the tow bar be carried aside from the front or rear? I only ask because I've spotted that DEF is now producing an MCR mounting base for the Abrams. My Academy Abrams has the tow bar on the front and the deflector on the rear, but if I picked up the MCR, the tow bar would have to go (I could put it on my OIF Tamiya Abrams, but then I'd cover up the number roundel on the hull [and not fully either, so its lose lose; not sure if that would've been done IRL, damn Dragon decal instructions ><]). I'd hate to have to omit good parts, so if anyone can clarify for me, I'd much appreciate it Cheers, Gaz.
  4. Hi Guys, Well, I had a spree of aircraft building but now I'm back in the civilised(?) AFV world. Here's Tamiya's M1A1 done in the tri-colour NATO scheme. Construction, as per Tamiya, was a dream and it was a true shaker and baker. Paint was in the form of Tamiya Acrylic and I guessed it was NATO green, black and brown as the instruction sheet was printed before Tamiya released the paints... Weathering was a succession of brown umber oil washes followed by oil dot filters on the slab sided shapes of the Abrams, Tamiya Buff was then misted onto the lower halves of the sideskirts. All the extra kit was from the Tamiya modern US equipment set, I used half the set and painted them with Humbrol Enamels followed by Tamiya Acrylic Smoke then a slightly lightened original colour. The track was Rye-Field Models after-market set and that was a wrong, oh such a wrong choice... the boredom levels were high with that one. Raked my dad @HL-10 into doing the other link set though! Painting the track was a simple affair of spraying them some mud colour then dry brushing the metal black before painting each individual pad black as well, to pigment or not to pigment is something undecided at the moment. Thanks for looking! Sam
  5. M1 Abrams Plow

    Does anyone know if the plow (fork-blade type) for an M1 Abrams is sold separately (and reasonably), or is it just with full kits? Most of my Abrams models have the tow bar installed on the front, so I couldn't retrofit them, but my older Tamiya one, which I'm refurbishing, doesn't (actually tried to transplant tow bar from a Dragon kit to the rear loops, but its not wide enough to do it; fits the front, though), so I've pondered the addition for added interest. Thanks in advance Gaz
  6. Abrams Warning Markings

    So during my refurbishment of my Tamiya M1A2 OIF, I decided to put to use the additional decals out of my Dragon M1A2 SEP kit. Unfortunately, those decals are not referred to in the SEP set at all (in some instances the instructions refer to decal numbers that don't exist, or incorrect locations in one case (I'll never trust Dragon instructions again tbh). Through a long and arduous search I've managed to procure some imagery to add the markings (APU for example), but others are almost impossible to find, since the only vehicle shots showing the hull seem to be devoid of markings. I added the 'Fuel' markings near the caps (Tamiya hull seems to have an extra cap so I could only mark three). Does anyone have access to the markings instructions from the Dragon M1A1 AIM kit? These seem to display the locations of these superfluous decals. I've got the bulk on, but still need to know where to place certain 'No Step' ones (added two the driver's hatch), as well as soe reading 'Read Warning Beneath' and 'Engine Service' as well as some small 'Lift Here' ones. Hugely appreciate any assistance with this one. Also, if anyone knows what the white serial number markings provided (with a white circle out line and two dots inside it) are, that'd be a huge help. Thanks. Gaz
  7. Abrams Late-80s

    Hi, I have some questions regarding the variants of Abrams around in the late-80s, specifically 89. Ordinarily I would presume that the Army had access to the M1A1 at this time, but I've read that the M1A2 entered production in about 86. Obviously it's not the one we're all familiar with, with the round CITV. My questions are: are these dates correct? And if they were in service did the M1A2s have any specific external differences at this time compared with the M1A1? Second, did the M1A1s or A2s of this period have any form of commander thermal sight, specifically the box version, or was it left with the cap? Any help would be appreciated Gaz
  8. I started this last year before work and a Meng Cougar got in the way. I'd stuffed it to one side thinking that the Cougar would be finished within a few weeks. Oops! Six months down the line and I'm looking for all the bits. Might as well start with the sprue picture. At least it shows that I still have to find the side skirts, the Eduard brass and a gun barrel. Moving on here's the point I'd reached last year. There's a difference in the anti slip layers on the hull and turret. I'd just obtained Mig's antislip compound in a tube and started on the hull. Its much too course for modern armour and probably wouldn't look out of place on some of the older Russian gear. As a result of this I shifted to Mr. Shifter 500, painted it on, waited until it had dried a bit and then stippled it with a hard brush. Seems like a reasonable result for the moment. I read that some folks spray the stuff with their airbrush but I'd be worried I couldn't get the airbrush properly cleaned. Close up of the two effects: Here's a view of the work on the running gear so far: I'd chipped some of the tyres but its not easy to see as I didn't want to make it too extreme. I decided to go with the rubber tracks that came with the kit rather than investing in Fruils. I hope I don't regret that later. Going on the premise that the bulk of the track is hidden behind the skirts (if I can find them) and the quality of the Tamiya tracks I thought I'd give the Tamiya ones a go.
  9. Well, I've decided to try a WIP of my new M1A2 SEP TUSK (or Abrams Acronyms ). So far I've assembled components for the lower hull, minus the wheels, some components on the upper hull and turret, the reactive armour on the skirts, and the main gun. I then masked off the appropriate areas and gave it a coat of Rust-Oluem Terracotta effect for the anti-slip coating. Came out better than expected, but I think I'll need to lay some primer over it soon since the little grains in the paint seem to flake off fairly easy. Anyway, here's some pics of my work so far. That's all I've got for now
  10. Anti-Slip Surfaces

    Hi all. I've just picked up a Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 SEP TUSK II (hurricane of acronyms there ). Was meant to be for Christmas but...I can't wait that long Anyway. I read over on Armorama - specifically this article, http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=50656&page=1- about adding anti-slip surfacing to Abrams kits that lack it. The substance mentioned, Rust-Oleum Terracotta spray, seems to do the job quite well. Homebase apparently stock it, but I wondered if anyone else had tried it. The article is from an American modeller, and while the stuff at Homebase matches the name, it isn't mentioned as being textured in the description, so I wonder if it is exactly the same. If it lacked texture it would obviously be a little pointless Has anyone else used it, either on a model or for its intended purpose? Edit: I've recently spotted some of that Tamiya Tarmac texture paint. Anyone know if that would be suitable anti-slip stuff, or would it be too thick? Cheers, Gaz.
  11. Here's another Modern vehicle completed a while ago Kit: Tamiya 35156 M1A1 Abrams 120mm gun Main Battle Tank Scale: 1/35 Paints: Xtracolor enamel, US Gulf Sand Accessories: from kit & Kleenex tissue hand painted Apologies for the poor quality aerials. More to come
  12. US Army M1A2 SEP MBT TUSK I/II (E35-192) 1:35 ET Model The Tusk I/II from Tamiya is a beautiful kit in its own right, but, once again ET Models have found areas where it can be improved. It’s not as extensive as their Merkava sets, but there are still two large sheets, three medium sheets and eleven small sheets of relief etched brass, along with two lengths of metal wire, one small resin part, two metal aerial springs and a slab of thick clear ABS plastic. The set comes in two of the standard ET packaging of poly bags stapled together onto the card header. The main sheets are taped onto black card, whilst the smaller sheets are contained in a zip lock poly bag, as are the metal and resin parts. The instructions of twelve sides of A4 green paper. These are very clear and well laid out, particularly with reference to where the sub assemblies are fitted to the kit shown in a line diagram. They will still require careful reading before starting to assemble the etched parts, as some of the kit parts need to be altered or removed before these can be added. Plastic or brass rod of various diameters will also be required to use as directed. ET Models have also used various thicknesses of brass for the sheets, so that the small items, such as straps will be easier to fold while items such as the reactive armour brackets and thicker and therefore stronger to hold the weight of the kit parts that are attached to them. The first task is to build up three ammunition boxes for the M2 50 cal and M240 7.62mm machine guns and two further boxes for what looks like 40mm grenades, for the smoke launchers on either side of the turret. This last box is the trickiest in that the internal holders for the rounds have to be rolled into shape before fitting into the box and an internal division fitted around them. Of course if the box is to be modelled closed the holders won’t need to be used. The gunners hatch receives internal sight details and an external ring which covers the gap between the hatch and the turret armour. A large gun ring is then fitted around the completed hatch. On the forward end of the left hand turret storage box a new shelf and support brackets is fitted along with the associated straps for one of the ammunition boxes. The machine guns are detailed nest, with the commanders weapon being fitted with new barrel handle, perforated barrel hand hold, front and rear sights, cocking handle, parts of which need to be made out of plastic rod, ammunition box cradle into which one of the previously made boxes is fitted, a length of ammunition belt and two locking pins with chains attached to hold the gun to the mounting. The 7.62mm M240 is fitted onto a new pintle mounting and ring slide, perforated barrel fittings, rear sight, ammunition box cradle and ammunition belt. The M2 fitted near the front of the turret over the main gun also receives new barrel fittings, front and rear sights, a complete mounting with the pins and chains to hold the gun on, cocking handle, rear firing handles, and ammunition cradle, box and belt. The turret is then fitted with new brackets and supports to the rear, while the stowage baskets are fitted with new perforated floors, ID panels, new jerry can shelves and a new cable reel. The refrigeration unit is fitted with a new top box and several handles. On the turret sides near the front the smoke discharges are fitted with new support brackets as are the spare 40mm ammunition boxes just in front of them. Also on the turret sides the new brackets and supports for the kits reactive armour pieces are attached. Above the mantle cover another small flap is fitted to cover the gap and new flash suppressor for the co-axial machine gun is rolled to shape and fitted into position. There are several new handles fitted to the drivers hatch and other fittings, including the chains for the fuel caps, around the hull. On the rear deck all the engine hatch mesh is replaced with brass parts and the rear hull is fitted with angled exhaust plates, ID plate support bracket, and telephone box, which is a small kit on its own. The side skirts are fitted with new front and rear mudguards, whilst to the rear a new skirt piece is fitted to the rear. The front and rear angled shields for the hull reactive armour are fitted once the kit parts have been attached. Finally the armoured sections that make up the commanders and loaders protection screens and assembled. Each screen section s folded to shape and fitted with pieces of the ABS sheet, the templates for each screen is contained on the instruction sheet. The sheet is 1.5mm thick so represents well the armoured glass fitted to the screens. If you’re not confident with cutting the sheet, then the clear parts in the kit could most probably be made to fit. Engine & Turret Rack Grilles, (EA35-093). If you think this is all too much and you only want to add a little extra something to your build then ET Models have also released a small set containing just the perforated grilles for the engine deck and the floors of the turret baskets. Conclusion This is an amazing set that provides so much extra detail that it’s difficult to describe it all. ET Models certainly give the modeller their monies worth. Some may say why bother when the kit is already so good, but you can’t get the scale thickness of metal or the finesse of detail in most styrene parts no matter how good the manufacturer. If you want a highly detailed model in your collection this is the only way to go, especially as ET Models haven’t replaced kit parts that don’t need replacing which can be a concern with other manufacturers. I can’t recommend this set highly enough and will certainly be using it when my Tamiya Abrams gets on to the work bench. Review Sample courtesy of
  13. Hi everyone, This is my first armour kit in a very long time so be gentle! - it was built for an Airfix/Matchbox armour GB elsewhere and the full build log is here. I know, I know - the weathering is OTT for the scale (1/72) but I've learned a lot for the next time. To recap: Kit: Matchbox M1 Abrams (Revell copyright 1993) Build: Mostly OOB but with scratchbuilt turret bustle rack - stowage items scratched or from spares Paint: Brush painted Revell acrylics. Future. Flory Models wash. GW Nuln Oil. W&N Matt Varnish. The varnish was still tacky when I took these hence the slight sheen in some pics. Also, the camera/lighting really shows up the orange ID panel and I can't imagine they're that shiny in real life? For a kit of its age and the fairly basic level of detail, I'm happy with how it's turned out. Thanks for looking and enjoy your modelling. Dermot
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