This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Star Wars'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar

Forums

  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling
    • Group Builds
    • The Rumourmonger
    • Work in Progress
    • Other Modelling Genres
    • Britmodeller Yearbooks
    • Tools & Tips
  • General Discussion
    • Chat
    • Shows
    • Photography
    • Members' Wishlists
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
    • Aeroclub Models
    • Air-Craft.net
    • AJ Aviation - Jan & Tony
    • A.M.U.R. Reaver
    • Atlantic Models
    • Bernd.M Modellbau
    • BlackMike Models
    • Casemate UK
    • Collett's Model Shop
    • Copper State Models
    • Creative Models Ltd
    • DACO Products
    • Freightdog Models
    • Gizzmo Heaven
    • Hannants
    • Hobby Colours & Accessories
    • Hobby Paint'n'Stuff
    • Hypersonic Models
    • Iliad Design
    • Japan:Cool
    • Kagero Publishing
    • Kingkit
    • L'Arsenal 2.0
    • Modellingtools.co.uk
    • Maketar Paint Masks
    • Marmaduke Press Decals
    • MikroMir
    • Mirage Hobby
    • MJW Models
    • The Hobby Shack
    • Models4Hobby
    • Models R Go
    • NeOmega & Vector Resin
    • Parkes682Decals
    • Pheon Models
    • Pocketbond Limited
    • Precision Ice and Snow
    • Radu Brinzan Productions
    • Red Roo Models
    • Relish Models
    • SBS Model - Hungary
    • Scale-Model-Kits.com
    • Scale Model Shop Ltd
    • Small Stuff Models
    • Sovereign Hobbies
    • Special Hobby
    • Sphere Products
    • Starling Models
    • Stormfront Models
    • StoryModels.com
    • T7 Models
    • The Hobby Den
    • The Real Model Shop
    • Thunderbird Models
    • Tiger Hobbies
    • Tirydium Models
    • Topnotch - Bases and Masks for Models
    • Ultimate Modelling Products
    • Valiant Wings Publishing
    • Videoaviation Italy
    • White Ensign Models
    • Wild House Models
    • Wonderland Models
  • Archive
    • 2007 Group Builds
    • 2008 Group Builds
    • 2009 Group Builds
    • 2010 Group Builds
    • 2011 Group Builds
    • 2012 Group Builds
    • 2013 Group Builds

Categories

  • New Features
  • Other

Found 185 results

  1. TIE Interceptor Finemolds 1/72 Hi everyone This was built in Febuary 2014. It was the first Finemolds SW kit I'd built and it was very nice, though a little undersized for 1/72. The base was made from various bits and bobs built up on the supplied kit base. I added a few LEDS to the base to add a bit of interest. Enjoy the shots Thanks for looking Andy
  2. She's done, the Koensayr Manufacturing BTL-A4 Y-wing starfighter, painted up in a dulled down 'squid pink' for something a little different. Lovely kit to build, everything goes together so well. It's my third build and my favourite so far; got to try out some new techniques - hairspray chipping and adding washes which I hadn't done before but which have worked well. There is a WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235015735-bandai-172-y-wing/ if anyone is interested. Purposeful bomber pose, not a bad shot from an iPhone. Overall I like the look - the front cannons are a bit 'heavy' and its not helped by the Tamiya Gunmetal I painted them with, it is (in my hands at least) very 'lumpy' and I'm not much keen on it. The droid - my terracotta tea-pot that I'm not so pleased with, I thought he'd set-off the Y-Wing by being a different tone but it doesn't really work as I wanted. I could have repainted him but I thought I put him up and see what others think of him. The pink stripes on the nacelle came out better than I expected - I really struggled with the masking and then on my next trip to the hobby shop found out you can buy special tape for masking curves... The underside, really pleased with how the weathering - a combination of Vajello washes and MIG enamels has come out The two little rust streaks are my favourite bit of weathering. I wasn't sure if I should add more - but working on the 'less is more' principle I thought I'd quit while ahead and leave it as is. Little streaks of grime added with MIG enamels. The pink paint was chipped with MIG chipping fluid and the 'undercoat' chips were sponged on after. The chipping fluid was the 'heavy' version which resulted in chips a bit too big for my tastes - I'll try to pick up a 'lighter' chip effect fluid before reusing the technique on something this small. Well used craft - some Tamiya weathering pastels were used to add the soot/blast marks. Thanks for looking - any feedback gratefully received.
  3. Here's a build I'm doing of K-2SO I'm using a Jakks Pacific Big Fig and adding parts to make it better, giving it a better paint job and changing the pose. After a lot of sanding and filing of the seams I gave it a coat of primer. Then I got busy with the lathe and machined some aluminium rod down to replace the hinges and joints. The first picture shows the replacement joints I made and then there's a couple of pictures of the old joints cut off and replaced with the new ones.
  4. Part 1 So, a new WIP for me to start and then leave partially completed because I've still not got around to buying the materials I need for the display and for my R2 kit. Anyway I was eager to start this one because I've finally got my hands on a compressor and airbrush so I can paint the parts I want to a little easier, I guessed this would be a good kit to start with. I should add at this point that I have been chronicling this one for a while now, waiting until I actually had some real progress to how before posting, but as with all my projects I have precious little spare time so diving out to my 'Nest' in the garage does not happen as much as I would like. First things first let's flip over the build mat - can't build a Storm Trooper on the 'metric' side can we! Here are the obligatory spruce shots. And this is just the water slide transfer sheet, but the plan is to use as few of these as possible I decided to prime and top coat the black parts whilst they are still on the spruces. For this I'm using Vallejo Black Primer. I snipped off the obvious white parts and gave everything a coating of primer. Then I panicked as I realised I had just painted the translucent eye shields So I snipped these off the spire and quickly rubbed a cotton bud soaked in airbrush cleaner over it to remove the paint. Phew! Now there is lesson number 1 for me: Double check the sprue! I was struggling with a bit of paint spatter and clogging at first whilst I worked out the best air pressure. I can spray with a full size gun so I rather arrogantly decided I would be able to airbrush with no problems. So the spattering was lesson number 2: Learn some humility you big head! Got a better layer of primer down in the end that I was happy with.
  5. My pal printed this out for me on his whizz-bang super-duper 3D printer, but I'll leave his name a mystery so he doesn't get bombarded with similar requests. This wasn't a cheap item to print, but it was worth it just to test the capabilities of the printer! Although it was printed before Christmas, I didn't receive it until a week or two ago, and have only now gotten round to doing a little work on it today. It's a phone pic, and the main upper receiver part was missing at this stage, due to it having to be printed separately. you can see the resin is still damp from clean-up, but what you can't see too well is the level of detail that's been achieved with a relatively "cheap" printer. A couple of years back this would probably have cost a quarter of a mill, but now it's a few tens of thousands. We're a long way from being able to print a squadron of Spitfires overnight, but we're getting there. They do need to reduce the cost of consumables though, as it's shocking how much a kilo of the stuff costs - it's almost as expensive as a gallon of inkjet printer ink! The grips on the handle of what was once a Broom-Handled Mauser were first to see the sanding sticks & primer, as tonight I just don't seem to be able to focus on anything meaningful, as I'm dog-tired and more than a little bit sore. I've been sat there staring into space with a sanding stick in hand, and a grip in the other, idly buffing at it to see how quickly the parts can be made ready for paint. These parts are curved, so as you can imagine, with them being made of thousands of tiny flat layers, there is some texture to them and a bit of sanding and filling was/is necessary. Comparing this print to the previous printer I've had dealings with though, the difference is chalk and cheese. The layers are far less obtrusive, and that means a lot less clean-up to get a smooth finish. hell, if I wasn't picky, I could just prime it with a high-build primer, slap a coat of paint on it and go "Pew, pew, pew" to my heart's content I'd like to do a bang-up job of it though, to do justice to the super job that Mister X did of the print. I thought I'd start with the grips because there are two of them, so it'll be easy to gauge the difference that a few coats of primer have made. As you can see, two coats of primer and some fairly idle sanding have improved it a lot, and with an extra session, plus paying a little more detail to the grooves, it should be ready for paint in no time. These are wooden on the real thing, so a little roughness is to be expected, but I'm going to go for a sleek, worn look when I finally get around to painting them. How I'll achieve wood grain effect though, I have no idea. We shall see. There are some replacement wooden grips available on eBay at the moment, which come with all the necessary bolts to hold the grips firmly to the frame, but comparing my Airsoft Mauser to this one, there are some subtle shape differences that might end up with a poorly fitting part. They're also £20, which is a fair wedge for something that might be useless really. I'll be updating this as-and-when I have time to make any progress, and I might also add the progress pics of my Son's Nerf version of this gun when it arrives, as I intend to paint it in proper colours, leaving the tip that blaze red colour, just in case. It's not as accurate as this one in terms of look (they've had to shoe-horn the Nerf mechanism into an elongated receiver), but it might reduce his clamour for this one. The flash-suppressor is a tad delicate IMO, and might not react well to being accidentally smacked against a door frame, swing, dog or my head
  6. Workhorse of the Rebellion the venerable BTL-A4 Y-Wing Starfighter. It'll be an out of the box build but I do want to do a custom paint job rather than Gold Leader; partially for fun and partially as I'd like to do Gold Leader when I have the skills to do it justice. It goes together very easily but there are lots (and lots) of fragile little piping pieces - I'm amazed I only broke one. Here it is with most of the piping in place. It is so well engineered that what could have been extremely frustrating was actually rather enjoyable - although I was glad to finish with the piping. Looking at the phot now it seems there are a few spots that'll need filling before the primer goes down. and a couple of days later ready to prime. I elected to paint it in as big as possible parts as following my Gundam build i'm over having lots of little bits to paint individually - I hope I don't come to regret this idea.
  7. I built this Resin leviathan back in March last year. Took several months to build and pushed the limits of modelling abilities and patience. I finally got round to weathering (a few cotton buds later) and detail painting this enormous Imperial Destroyer: 38" x 24" x 12" (BIG) 10kgs Blockade runner & MF:
  8. First finished build for 2017, this is Bandai's 1/12 K-2SO from Rogue One. Even if you haven't seen it yet, it's not really giving much away to say he pretty much steals the film. In many ways he's even better than 3P0 and R2. Bandai's kit is for the most part as good as all their previous releases, although the plastic is quite soft which makes cleaning up the sprue gates (which aren't as well hidden as some of the earlier kits) a little harder. I tried to mach the weathering to the real K2 as much as possible, using hairspray chipping and various washes to build up the grime on his plating. The base is a rough representation of the Jedha landscape. Full build here Thanks for looking Andy
  9. So this fella' arrived last night and I can't wait to get started on it soon! I haven't build a Bandai kit before but have followed and been inspired by the many great builds I've seen here. I had a couple of newbie questions that I was hoping fellow BM'ers could help me with... Should I glue the parts or is the push-fit process strong enough to keep it all together? Do I need to seal the factory paint-finish with Klear before I start weathering? Or is it ok to weather right on top of it? I've read about the plastic being fragile with/attacked by certain products - I mostly use acrylics and water-based so would I be ok with those? Any advice on a final finish for this guy - Matt, Satin or Gloss? Sorry for all the queries, thanks in advance! Cheers, Dermot
  10. This time last year I started off a year of droid builds with BB-8, so I thought I'd get my first build of the year going in a similar way, this time with the unquestionable star of Rogue One; K-2SO Before I cut any plastic, I'll show a quick run through of the sprues, which won't take long as there's only two (okay, three if you count the base). You don't get the usual large sprue of vinyl joints either, just six small ball joints, as K2's limbs don't really suit that type of connection. First up sprue A. The multi-coloured one for this kit, with black for the body parts, gunmetal grey for the joints, Light grey for the shoulders and clear for the eyes and the round pins that are used to reinforce the elbows and knees Sprue B. All black, with the legs, head, hands and other smaller parts The standard figure base. You also get an optional support rod (the long piece on the left side of sprue A), one end of which clips into the base, and the other into a hole in his back The small set of vinyl joints for the hips, shoulders, neck and waist Some close-up shots: Chest and back panels Hips Legs Head dome This is a nice one piece slide moulding. There's a seam across the top that will need cleaning up, but it's nothing major. A quick swipe with a sanding stick will deal with it. Eyes Hands No finger articulation, as Bandai sometimes do with their Gundam kits, but that would have probably made them over scale anyway. These look fine to me Shoulders These are fully engraved, so you won't have to use the decals, which is just as well as the decals are the usual Bandai type with dotty, half-tone printing Elbow and Knee joints These have some nice tooth detail on the insides. On the 'real' droid the joints are fully open through the centre, but Bandai have included some clear inserts to strengthen the joint. I'll be leaving these out if possible, but I'll probably have to glue the limbs in one position Standard decal/sticker choice Regular Bandai instruction booklet more soon Andy
  11. My first SciFi subject.....A real pleasure ! Cheers Pierre
  12. Hi All Here is my recently completed Revell U-wing transport from 'Rogue One'. This ship is in my top 5 favorite Star Wars ships (the Republic Gunship, aka LAAT/i, is my favorite all-time) as I have thing for helicopter gunships like the Vietnam War era Huey in the real world. The same individual who 3D-milled the center drive section for my AT-ACT also milled the replacement engine nozzles and rear radiator panel for this kit as it was missing altogether (Revell received the U-wing profiles/plans for production from Lucasfilm before the ship's design was finalized for the movie). Instead of doing a total repaint, I concentrated on the areas around the seams and just touched those spots up after filling them in. The markings on the fuselage were distressed with a sanding stick or hobby knife (except the gray panel on the right side- it was airbrushed over some sprinkled salt for the chipping effect). The entire ship then received a pastel chalk wash. A little heavier than I intended, especially around the engines, so we'll just chalk it up to heavy interstellar abuse. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Albert
  13. While watching Rogue One I was looking at all the shiny vehicles that could be modelled (I'm sure I am not alone with this thought). When the AT-ST appeared all I could think of was the thread in the Sci-Fi discussion section called "Star Wars AT-ST camouflage schemes" by Gekko_1. I don't know a whole lot about camouflage schemes in the real world but I wanted to do one in an urban setting so I hit google hard. While I was researching I started the model build. There are dozens of WIP for Bandai AT-ST's written by much more accomplished modellers so I won't bore you with the build. Before finishing the actual build I decided that I wanted to paint the cockpit, I know its not going to be seen again but I still wanted to do it and I need as much experience as possible.
  14. Speeder Bike and Biker Scout Bandai 1/12 Star Wars build no. 4 for the year, and this one went together as well as all the others from Bandai, although the size and shape of it make it somewhat unwieldy when it's all together. The trooper had to be pinned to the saddle to stop him from sliding around and the whole thing's surprisingly heavy, there's quite a lot of plastic in this. The wip thread is here I'll definitely get another at some point, when Disney sort out the mess they've created, as I'd like to do a Hoth one in white, but for now here's the Endor version. Thanks for looking Andy
  15. Kuat Systems Engineering Firespray-31-class patrol and attack craft Slave I Bandai Slave I (1/144 scale); completed in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, MIG enamels, and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. The stand and the Star Wars decal are from the Fine Molds version of this model and the mythosaur skull was made with my Cameo cutting machine. All and all, I think this kit turned out great. I was pretty nervous about starting it because the paint job is pretty complex, but once I got in the thick of it I was okay. It could probably stand to use some more weathering and I'll probably do some before I take it to the model club meeting next month, but for now I'm calling it done. The work in progress log can be found here. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  16. I've been longing to build a model of one of the coolest Star Wars ships of all time, Boba Fett's Slave I. Like all Bandai kits, this 1/144 scale version of his iconic ship comes premolded in various colors but unlike most Bandai Star Wars kits, this one has to be painted if you want to accurately represent the ship. Having the parts organized by color makes painting it pretty easy given how complex the rear of the ship is. I removed and cleaned all of the parts from the sprue and organized them by what color they were to be painted. After I got all of the rear pieces organized, I started painting the cockpit. Most sources show that the cockpit should be army green but I much prefer grey, which was Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) in this case. I highlighted a few bits with some Vallejo light grey and silver and gave everything a wash with MIG Dark Wash (enamel). The front console was painted with Tamiya Deep Green (XF-26), I applied some liquid mask with a sponge and then gave it a coat of NATO Black (XF-69). The bottom dark grey layer of the rear was painted with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) and given a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel. The engine nozzles were undercoated with Tamiya Buff (XF-57), had some liquid mask applied with a sponge, and then given a coat of coppery brown mixed with a few Vallejo reds and browns. I preshaded the green bits with Tamiya Flat Black (XF-1) and gave them a coat of Tamiya Field Green (XF-65) followed by a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel as the first pass of weathering. The grey parts were preshaded with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), and given a wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. I also applied a few of the small decals on the grey parts. I love how layers of parts are stacked on top of each other to make a complex surface. There is even parts that can't really be seen unless you hold it just so; it really is quite impressive. After all of the pieces are in place, more weathering will be added to dirty everything up, mainly chipping on the raised areas, more enamel washes, and possibly some pigments. The stabilizers were painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), the yellow markings/chips were painted with a mix of Flat Yellow (XF-3) and Yellow Green (XF-4), the red strip was painted with a mix of Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9), and the entire assembly was given a pin wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. After everything dries, they'll get a coat of matte varnish and then more weathering. Moving on the the front "skirty," I started with the base coat of pale green. According to the painting guide supplied with the Fine Molds version of this kit, the "correct" color is supposed to be Tamiya J.A. Grey (XF-14). This was a little too green for my taste, I mixed in some Tamiya Medium Grey (XF-20) and Flat White (XF-2) in a ratio of 3:2:2 to get this wonderful pale green. Also, I took this photo while experimenting with a new 50mm lens I bought for my Nikon. I would like to take all of my work in progress shots like this but it's much easier to grab my iPhone and snap a few quick pictures. After giving the skirt a nice coat of chipping fluid, I sprayed on the redish brown. All and all, I'm not entirely happy with it. I decided to use chipping fluid instead of liquid mask applied with a sponge. It's not bad, it's just not the finish I was aiming for. I guess it will be cool because the chipping on the skirt is going to be different than the hull, where I will be using liquid mask. The colors I used were Hull Red (XF-9) and Buff (XF-57) for the red, Pink (X-17) for the chipping, German Grey (XF-63) over Medium Grey (XF-20) for the grey panels, and Vallejo Model Air Tank Brown (71.041) for the brown panel. After this picture was taken, I managed to get a panel line wash on with MIG Dark Wash enamel. Once that is sealed in with some matte varnish, I'll move on to more weathering.
  17. Just had the heads up from Jimi at JPG Productions that he and Nicholas Sagan are close to finalising a 1:350 scale version of the EF76 B Escort Frigate which we know better as the Medical ship at the end of Empire Strikes Back and more recently in Rogue One. It will be about 36" long (about 90cm) and consist of about 100 parts. More info here. http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=89268 Cheers, Warren
  18. Hi all, Apologies if this has been posted before, but I just came across this quite amazing collection of old behind the scenes photos from the making of Episodes 4, 5 and 6. There are some really fabulous old-school modelling skills evident in some of these shots! http://www.vintag.es/2015/04/100-rare-color-photos-of-behind-scenes.html
  19. TIE Interceptor 181st Imperial Fighter Wing | Bandai 1/72 I did this kit as a nice sendoff build before I went on vacation for the week between Christmas and the New Year. It's painted as the personal TIE Interceptor of Commander of the 181st Imperial Fighter Wing, Soontir Fel. The red "bloodstripes" signify ten combat kills, something nearly every member of the elite 181st bore on their Interceptors. Since Soontir Fel is one of the greatest pilots in the Galaxy, his personal fighter has seen lots of action against the Rebellion (and New Republic), so I decided to give it a little bit of weathering. I painted the entire ship with Alclad metallics and used some liquid mask for chipping before giving the entire model a coat in a custom blue-grey I mixed up with a couple Tamiya paints. The wing panels were painted with a mix of Vallejo Model Air Black and Arctic Blue (metallic) to give them an iridescent shimmer. The red strip is just Tamiya Flat Red weathered in the same manner as the hull of the ship. The rest of the weathering was done with MIG Productions enamels. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  20. I started this one in June of this year, but it went on the back-burner for a while for whatever reason (I can't honestly remember!), but after a bit of paint lifted off the P-40 I picked it up and started masking for the main camo... camo? pattern. Yeah - pattern. It's a snap-together kit that I detailed up with some styrene bits to closer resemble the filming miniature, and gave it the same scheme as close as I could. I also tinkered about with the details on the wings amongst other things, all of which had to be scratch-built. You can see the WIP here if you're bored Now to see if I can get the P-40 finished before the hammer falls on the year
  21. Back in the 80's I purchased, as a job lot, the MPC Snap versions of the X-Wing, A-Wing, TIE Interceptor and the B-Wing, the subject of this little revisit. (They may have been in a 4 ship box set thiking back) Image below for reference I recall I assembled the B-Wing on the train home from Oxford. Once home I painted it... not very well. It had a stand, long since lost to time, marriage, children and house moves. I still have two of it's stable mates more or less intact and shall turn my attention to them in the future. The finish on the B-Wing didn't look any better. So I disassembled it (sorry, didn't think to take a piccie before I had done this and started work). Filled and sanded some significant holes including the original stand location on the engine housing on the right Thinned the intake walls to produce an impression of scale thickness Fixed the seam on the cockpit section including removing some serious misalignments in the detail around the circumference and cleaned up the hole at the back to a more consistent profile. Spent a cosy evening yesterday recreating the intake at the front of the main engine nacelle from plasticard so it wouldn't look so much like it was made from thick sliced bread Really rather pleased with that I also drilled out the guns but no piccie for that yet. That's as far as it goes for now. Thanks for looking in Phil
  22. Hello all, This is my recently (ish, before Crimbo anyway) completed SD from Bandai. I've already chucked it up in my little Yearbook thing, but not everyone looks there and I do so love attention... Anyway, the model was undercoated in black then a mottled grey-white was built up with heavily thinned Tamiya flat white thinned with the God King of thinners, MLT. This was then finished off with a Neutral Grey enamel wash. Toodles, Paul
  23. Well folks here he is, finished at last. Some of you have read the WIP thread for this little fella which chronicled not my build, but the process of learning how to paint and weather a kit; this being my first build following a break of 35 years and realistically the first I have truly painted. The WIP thread can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235011076-bandai-r2d2-and-bb8-newbie-wip/ Ultimately R2 is destined to be a bookend, but until I sort that part out, here is my finish painted model: A big thank you to Rockpopandchips, AndyRM101 and Oileanach for their technical help when it all went "Pete tong", but thanks to everyone else who watched and commented on my WIP with words of encouragement. I'm going to detail paint BB8 next and see if I can get away without using any of the transfers or stickers as I did with R2. thanks for looking, smeggy
  24. So after a very long interlude I have returned to model building; following some great advice from you guys at the forum I have begun my first ever attempt at detail painting and weathering. I decided to start small and build my confidence and techniques on the tools that come with R2 and BB, so I selected R2's Arc Welder for my first 'victim' I'm using Vallejo acrylics and what you see is black base coat, gun metal, silver, blue (mixed to lighten the shade), gold and red from the basic set I bought along with the first layer of black wash. Looking at it I think I should have painted the gun metal sections black and washed with the gun metal or attempted to dry brush it on as I think it looks a little bright, but I aim to tone it all down with a few more dark washes. More WIP to follow as soon as I find the time to do some more painting!
  25. Had a look at my built but not competed BB8 today. I've started to add a pin wash but the little fella is so shiny that it's having trouble sticking so a rethink is required. I ended up thinning my paint and adding a drying inhibitor and then painting it on and carefully wiping it off, this seemed to fill some of the panel lines but not all; I also need to add 2 water slide decals that I simply could not hand paint. I also have no idea yet how I'm going to display him so I'm afraid BB8 is going into storage until I can decide that.