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Found 10 results

  1. I'm interested in doing a few figures in 1/48 scale from the North Africa theatre in WWII, but aside from the Tamiya Afrika Korps set, I'm not finding too much out there. Anyone have any suggestions for nice Afrika Korps and/or 8th Army infantry figures in this scale? Metal would be great, but resin or plastic works, too. 40mm scale wargaming figures would probably also work. Any ideas? Thanks.
  2. Am wanting to finish a Tamiya Valentine as in the photo below named 'Black Knight' in North Africa. Photo was taken in late 1941 or early 1942. Believe Light Stone would be correct for this time period but the dark sand shields are throwing me off as to how this tank was painted. I can see the white/red/white markings on the front of the hull and turret used during Operation Crusader. Any thoughts/comments/educated guesses on the camouflage? Thanks, Charlie
  3. I came upon two photographs of Morane Saulnier 406s in Algeria in the spring of 1939. These are screen-caps to preserve the captioned information, and were taken from this site: https://www.traditions-air.fr/unit/photo/012.htm#5 Also from this site, another Morane with a low serial number, location unknown, and a table showing station of the units at various times. It seems an interesting and out of the usual way subject for a model. I do not know much about the type, however. What are good, available references for the 406 (preferably in English, though I can muddle a little in French)? Is there any reference with a table matching series numbers (on the rudder) with serial numbers (under the wings)? I have monographs on the Ni-D 62 family, and on the Dewoitine 500 series, which have such tables. These are early production machines, given the low series numbers. I know French camouflage varied a great deal, but it seems to me machines built about the same time at the same factory ought to be at least similar. The tight wavy line and hard edges seem distinctive. Has anyone got full views of an early production MS 406?
  4. And at last it's time for this much awaited group build. My contribution will be a SAAF 16 Squadron Martin Maryland based at Addis Ababa, Abyssinia in mid 1941, which isn't exactly North Africa, but I got approval to build it. I'm 99% sure I'll be building a Maryland with serial 1604 for which I have a nice color profile as well as b/w photo (along with a/c log details and plenty "stories") in Graeme Gibson's excellent book Path of Duty about 16 Squadron's journey from 1939 to 1943. Off course I cannot post the profile and photo because of copyright. There were two Marylands active with 16 Sqn at the time (1603 & 1604) and was used for recce, bombing, strafing and also for dropping propaganda leaflets on the Italian's. 1604 was written of on 20 June after crashing on the aerodrome. As far as I understand these were Maryland Mk.I's originally intended for the French before the armistice, which means I have to make some slight modifications to the Mk.II kit. The props of these Mk.I's were Hamilton Standard's with diagnostic cuffed blades, which means I will have to try put cuffs on the props (already having nightmares because if that ). There's less aerials on the Mk.I, but that's an easy fix, and the paint scheme is a bit of a mystery. As far as I can figure out these were still in the French scheme when delivered to the SAAF - olive drab over light blue grey - vs. the one's intended for the British which were dark green / dark brown over sky. Apparently the SAAF *may* have applied a "chocolate brown" to the Maryland's uppers in the theatre, but I don't think there's solid proof of this. I chose to paint my subject olive drab over light blue grey like the profile of 1604 in Path of Duty. Hopefully that's enough info to peak your interest in this subject. And with that's here's the kit I'll be building. And here are some sprue shots (suprisingly low part number for a bigger kit) The clear parts And some resin bits These are the decals I'll be using. Since I'm not aware of any decals for the subject I'm building, I have sourced all the necessary markings from different sheets. These sheets provide me all the decals I'll need. And I received these for the fuselage numbers. These Maryland's didn't carry fuselage codes apart from serials. And here is the instruction sheet. Not the best but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Can't wait to get started. Cheers Jimmy
  5. On Agust 4, 1940, four 80 Sqdn Gladiators were assigned to escort a Lysander of 208 Sqdn on a reconnaisance. YK*I/L8009, flown by F.O. Wykeham-Barnes, was one them. They encountered a group of Italian Breda 65 attack planes, escorted by a larger formation Fiat CR-32 fighters, biplanes of an older vintage than the Gladiators. Wykeham-Barnes shot down one of the Bredas, then was attacked by the escorting Fiats; he was creditted with downing one of them before his own machine was shot up so badly he took to his parachute. One other 80 Sqdn pilot claimed a Breda and a Fiat, before also being forced to bail out; another Gladiator was shot down with its pilot killed, and the one which remained crashed in attempting to land. Wykeham-Barnes' Breda was reckoned the first victory by an 80 Sqdn Gladiator. This model represents YK*I/L8009 as it may have appeared shortly before its destruction. There is some uncertainty regarding its appearance at that time. This owes to photographs of 80 Sqdn. Gladiators taken early in 1940 showing upper surfaces in two dark grey tones without much contrast, and photographs of 80 Sqdn. Gladiators taken later in the year showing uppersurfacs in two highly contrasted grey tones, one dark and one light. Further, photographs which show the upper surface of the upper wing of an 80 Sqdn. Gladiator show at least two seperate patterns employed, one matching well with the standard, the other not. Some have taken the later, high contrast photographs to indicate employment of a local scheme of Dark Green and Light Earth. The Osprey 'Gladiator Aces' monograph depicts several 80 Sqdn. Gladiators, including YK*I, in these colors, and so does 'Britain Alone' by Paul Lucas. The Warpaint Series number on the Gladiator does not, sticking with Dark Green and Dark Earth throughout for wartime Middle East Gladiators. The standard Temperate Land Scheme of Dark Green and Dark Earth was the official standard for camouflaged aircraft in the Near East at this time. There had been official trials of other schemes in the area recently, and also some local experimentation (this being permitted to an extent). At least one bomber squadron in Middle East Command had, for much of 1939, flown planes on which the Dark Green had been over-painted with something matching Light Earth. One of the trial schemes tested was a 'Modified' Temperate Land scheme, in which Dark Earth was replaced by Dark Sand (as near as can be told a sort of grey-brown with a yellow tinge), while the lower wings and sides of biplanes were still in Light Earth and Light Green. This scheme was considered to have wide applicability, but was dropped at the outbreak of the war for the standard Temperate Land on all overseas commands. Interestingly enough, this Modified Temperate Land scheme employed a different pattern on the upper wing, which matches well the 'non-standard' pattern some 80 Sqdn. Gladiators display on their upper wings. There is no record of a 'green and tan' scheme being employed in 1940, but most early-war records of 80 Sqdn. were lost in Greece. There is some evidence that later, some aircraft operating in Palestine and the Nile Delta were given a 'green and tan' scheme. One further possibility is simply that paint applied early in the year had deteriorated. Dark Earth, if over-thinned, is reported to have dried lighter than standard. Dark Earth in some formulations was especially prone to fading to a lighter shade under sunlight. This seems to me the most likely explanation for the different appearance between early and late photographs of 80 Sqdn. Gladiators; it is certainly the most parsimonious. The process of 'fading' in Dark Earth was formation of a white layer near the surface. I do not know if this would have greatly increased the reflectivity of the paint. Light Earth reflected much more light than either Dark Green or Dark Earth, and since the high contrast appears in photographs using both ortho and pan stock, reflectivity, and not color, must account for the 'brighter' areas. The kit is the 1/72 Airfix Gladiator. I added secondary bracings in the cowling, the radio mast on the wing, and the damper rods in the rigging. Identity decals mostly from the XtraDecals Gladiator sheet, but I damaged one serial run, and had to reconstruct from an old Modeldecals serial sheet. Roundels are from an old Pavla Gladiator sheet, as I liked their color better, and they had a yellow ring for the fuselage roundel. I finished this model to a color-spread in 'Britain Alone', and tried in my mixing colors to get something that could pass as faded Dark Earth or Light Earth, taking as my mark the rather light-ish Dark Earth in color photographs of the Shuttleworth Gladiator on the cover of the Warpaint Series Gladiator number. If I had known all I know now, I do not think I would have followed that profile, because I suspect it does not have the upper wing pattern right. It should probably have been either standard, or the 'center vee and parallel swathes' pattern of the Modified Temperate Land scheme. Building this was was a sort of recce in force to discover possible difficulties ahead of future Gladiator builds, which I want to be especially certain I get right. I like the kit a great deal. It does need attention, but if this is given, it goes together beautifully. Most mating surfaces have a bit of a 'lip' at their edges, and need to be sanded down flat; this is particularly important in regard to putting the lower wing on, and i fitting the strut ends into their sockets. Small parts need to be carefully sawn off; you really do have to follow instructions in assembling the motor and cowling (though you can treat this as a separate assembly, rather than starting with the engine fastened to the nose). The fit of the motor itself to the nose was the only really poor fit in the kit. As someone who does mostly open-cockpit subjects, and is not too comfortable with canopies and such, I appreciate the fit of the canopy in this kit. If you are careful in initial fitting in regards to the roll-over structure, and take just a hair off the front and rear of the canopy, it will be practically a snap-fit. The best way to deal with the 'X' between the interplane struts is to score it a bit with a saw before you assemble the wings, and then to heat an old X-acto blade and melt through the scored point. You can the nip off the rest and clean any remnant with no trouble at all. If you try to saw all the way though you will find it extemely tedious, and might slip; if you try to break it with a nipper you will pop joints.
  6. Hi all, My entry for this Group Build is going to be the Revell boxing of the excellent Hasegawa F4U-7 Corsair in 1/48 scale. These aircraft were used extensively by the Aeronavale during this bitter conflict and were operated from both shore bases and carrier decks, their good range and ability to carry a large amount of just about anything you could possibly want to drop on or fire at people making them very popular (with the French at least, probably less so the Algerians). Here are the usual "kit in bits" shots. Striking box art of the usual Suez marked aircraft. The contents and decals sheet laid out. A closer shot of the excellent Revell decal sheet. And now a couple of shots of the real thing to give some idea of the finish I am going to try and achieve, and to prove that they were also shore based, and very, very dirty! I hope that this choice of topic meets with the approval of the other group builders (there are some great topics on the go already). Any help and advice (and criticism) is always welcome. Thanks for looking. Craig.
  7. Spitfire in a Halifax

    Hyperscale.com, Currently page 2 on Plane Talking Look for this thread Some unusual RAF subject matter (well for me anyway) - Greg Taylor on Nov 12 Some nice WW2 pictures including one of a Halifax modified to carry Spitfire fuselages. I've never seen this before. I Imagine not many have? Enjoy Pete My computer failed to copy the link, Maybe someone else can try.
  8. I'm building an Academy Tomahawk IIb in the African Aces scheme, and putting a very strongly faded look into the paintwork. The decals, of course, look factory-fresh... I've got two thoughts at the moment about toning them down: a. A misted coat of white/very light grey paint over everything - bit concerned about this as the potential to ruin the whole plane could be quite high... b. White pastel/Tamiya weathering stuff on the decals - which would give, I think, a more uneven 'fading' Or, of course, both... Any thoughts on which has worked best for you at any point, or other suggestions? Cheers!
  9. A tiny tank made even smaller by the fact that it is 1/76. I had been a long time after this tank as it was one of the most important tanks I was missing in my collection. I refused to buy the JB Models for 13 €, and bought it eventually the Airfix reissue for just 6 GBP or so. More pics here; http://toysoldierchest.blogspot.com/2013/06/airfix-jb-models-vickers-light-tank-mk.html
  10. This is most probably my best 1/35 model, as I haven't build many, painted less and nearly everything a long time ago. I am basically a 1/72 guy. But sometimes for a change I make something, and I was quite inspired (if I may say so myself) when I built this one, in just two intensive days with the help of my brother. Usually I am not either a fan of making very worned out vehicles (I normally like vehicles just arrived from the factory), but this clearly cried for all the weatherings one can think of and then more. Here is the result (more pics here; http://toysoldierchest.blogspot.com/2013/05/tamiya-british-special-air-service-sas.html);
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