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Found 29 results

  1. Hi all, Having revisited my first-ever WIP thread on this forum this evening, with a view to replacing the many Photobucket ransom demands with appropriate pics from my Flickr album, it occurred to me that I never actually got round to completing a proper RFI thread for the finished model. I think at the time the lack of any facility for taking a decent photo, coupled with the feeling that the resulting quality (compared to the many masterpieces shown here) didn't really warrant it, meant that I just quietly forgot about it. The WIP was posted way back in February 2016, and can be found here in case you are interested. I recently took some RFI pics for my Alam Halfa diorama, and once they were done I took the opportunity to take some of the Ki-30. I feel now that I can share these, on the basis that I owe it to myself to heed whatever observations and criticisms are coming to me. This subject marked a return to modelling for me after a gap of some 30+ years, so not surprisingly the results are a little bit 'ragged'. So with that in mind, and a deep breath, I offer this set of photos: So there you go - better late than never, and all that! All criticisms gladly accepted
  2. Let me show you my new build - its the early version of PZL-23A Karaś. Here's the first movie - Unboxing.
  3. ADP MASTER modell 1/72 Iljuschin IL-4 W.I.P. by Andrii Dzhuran. Dedicate to Benedikt (thank you for an interesting idea and good recommendation) Hi folks! The display stand for the RA-5C VIGGI is dries after painting now and I have a bit spare time for the start of new one "work in progress". So. Ilyushin IL-4 Bomber As early as beginning of the thirties, a group of desiners of the Central Desigh Office, headed by S.W. Ilyushin, started developing a twin - engine long - range bomber. Finally, the prototype of ZKB-26 was built as a mixes construction and equipped with the M-85 engines. This bomber started on its maiden flight already in 1935. Only a few month later, the modified version of type ZKB-30 was completed as all-metal construction. The IL-4 flew in the formations of the soviet airforce as long - range bomber, torpedo bomber and as long-range reconnaissance plane and towing airplane for transport gliders untill 1946. Although four prototypes had been constructed no serial production was started. Thus, the IL-4 remained the last bomber Ilyushin had developed with piston engines.
  4. My white whale is ready to go public. GWH kit with my pe fret and refueling probe and pitots from Master. This is XL164 B.2, Blue Steel aircraft. Modelled without Blue Steel. With no evidence to the contrary I assumed that when no missile was carried, the bomb bay doors had been replaced. This is an important factor/excuse, as I tried to be reasonably accurate, but still be able to finish the model within a decade. The base is supposed to represent Cottesmore taxiway after storm, drying quickly in scorching tropical sun of England. Why the aircraft itself is dry? - you may ask. Well it has just landed after good weather flight. Post-flight ministerial inspection is about to begin. It took some effort to photograph this white whale, especially as I tried to show the subtle effect created by polishing panel centers and leaving panel lines matt. shaprer lighting helps to bring out sheen variations of the panels The bottom decoration courtesy of four Conways ...and two 'making-of' pictures
  5. Pe-2 Dive bomber in 1:48 scale. 34th Guards Red Banner Regiment, 276 Bomb Group, 1945 Built from Zvezda new tool kit. painted by Tamiya and vallejo paints. sealed by mat varinish. more pics
  6. Hi all, I'm back again. This time, after a unanimous vote (from Christian, whom we all know is exiled to Africa!), my next attempt at self-flagellation will be the notorious Mach 2 B-45 Tornado jet bomber in 1/72. By and large, the Mach 2 offerings have gotten a pretty bad rap -- in most cases not deserved. This is one of those kits. While not exactly a snap-together, and certainly not up to the modern pour-from-the-box-self-assembling model standard, it really isn't THAT bad. (Perhaps because my kit was bought so long ago that it was maybe a first run from the molds and now qualifies for Social Security?) In any event, we'll begin by showing the worst it has to offer. I'll not do a sprue review per se, as that has been done by others. Not many have actually assembled the kit, however. It looks like this: We now come to the first of the problem areas, the mold release pins, which are in some cases, humongous. These are marked "A" in the following picture. The items marked "B" are the sink holes on the other side of said pins, and the sink marks are in direct proportion to the size of the pins! Moving along, we encounter a few areas of excess plastic, known to us modelers as "flash". There really isn't much flash on my kit, so no worries. However, the next photo shows the real PITA as far as I am concerned -- the red arrows point to the "short shots" or missing plastic, which happens to occur on BOTH of the left-hand pieces of the pilot AND the co-pilot's seats. However, Mach 2 was kind enough to give us excess plastic in the cockpit itself, where the entire left-hand side (shown with "X's") should not even exist. The cockpit should look more like an American B-47, with a walkway from the nose entry door, and requiring a short climb up to the aforementioned seating. Please forgive the out-of-focus picture, but in-focus, it's REALLY ugly! Next, we have some classic "sink" marks, where not enough plastic filled the mold completely, leaving small "divots" -- as opposed to the short-shots, where plastic is missing entirely. Here "A" denotes the sink mark filled with CA glue, as this will be the left engine intake fairing and it will have a landing light fabricated later on. The "B" marks denote the sink marks of the right side engine intake (which does NOT have a landing light) as well as both exhaust fairing, which are simply filled with red primer putty, as they will require no reworking other than sanding. Next we have the clear parts, which are somewhat thick and not real clear. It remains to be seen whether they can be cleaned and used, or must be replaced. That accounts for most of the issues; a couple others will be addressed down the road. For now, the drill will be fill, sand, fill, sand, polish, etc. I will try hard to use little filler other than CA, because this will be a mostly NMF finish. In the areas where I must use filler, I will probably give those areas a light smear of CA glue also, to harden them up for polishing. Since every seam on this build will require sanding and polishing and re-scribing of lines, this part will not go quickly. This will not be a two-week build! Without further ado, I will show the tools that will help to tame this part of the beastly build: First, some of the sanding devices, mostly available through beauty supply outlets. You could pilfer these from your significant other, but I would suggest this only to those extremely young or those desiring only restful sleep! My favorites in this photo are the 4-grit version at the top -- as you progress through each of the four stages, you can virtually arrive at a polished canopy type finish. I also love the standing twigs, which are simply the larger items cut into 3mm widths. You can buy these at hobbyist supply, or roll your own in you have really sharp blades and a steady hand. I like them because you can get into tight spots, do minimal surrounding damage, and as they wear, simply snip off the ends with your sprue snippers and keep on keepin' on. For really tough chores (like thinning wings and vacuform models) I like the black one, which is #80 grit on one side and #100 grit on the other. For this build, I probably won't need that much muscle. Next, we have the means for restoring all those nicely scribed kit panel lines (which while building this kit, many will be destroyed), the scribing tools: At the top, and going clockwise, we have a few of the perhaps 2 dozen scribing templates, available from many suppliers. While not really necessary, I find they save a lot of time restoring vents, small panel and the like. Next we have the Dymo tape, which used to be used as a medium for old-school labeling. They have been largely replaced by newer technology, but remain invaluable for this use. You peel the protective film from the back, leaving a sticky, thickish plastic tape, which when applied to the model, gives you a nice, fairly hard edge to run the scribing device against, particularly on vertical lines on a fuselage. Each piece of tape is good for only a few "stick-ons" however, before it becomes roughed up on the edge or the sticky gets too stuck up with sanding or scribing dust. In any event, get some if you want to do any scribing, because sooner-or-later, you'll need it. I found mine on Amazon for a pretty low price, which was good, because few office supply stores in my area still carry any. Next, the scribing devices themselves. First up, a plain old embroidery needle stuck in a pin vise -- my oldest, and surely the cheapest devise. Next another scribing tip, stuck in another pin vise. This hardened tip from Mission Models, may no longer be available. (Mission Models also made the best scribing device that I ever used, a little two-sided little hatchet-shaped deal, about .005" wide, that cut a perfect square-edged slot into the plastic, that required virtually no sanding afterward. If you have one you'd like to be rid of -- I'm your man!). Lastly, a regular carbon steel tool scriber, useful if you encounter really hard plastic (which is why I no longer have the MM one described above). I also have another type, from Squadron Shop, (not pictured here) with two curvy end that are triangular in section. It is great for longer, straight lines, not so much so on curves. Also, there is a new series of scribing chisels out of Japan, but at $30 US to $60 US, I'm not certain that I'm that sincere. Next we have just simple brass shim stock, whose main advantage is that it can be trimmed to get into tight spots (also great for making cowl fins on P2V-3 Neptune models!), as is the regular old credit card, which plastic gets cut up from time to time for the cause. And lastly a plain old 6-inch steel ruler, which usually I either tape into place, or glue a piece of fine sandpaper to the back with rubber cement, so that it doesn't slide around so much. Well, enough for now. Next tie, we'll get into actually molesting plastic... Later, Ed
  7. Here's my new (let's say ) model of Heinkel 111 P-2. Episode 1 - Review Episode 2 - Fuselage Enjoy!
  8. Tu-16K cockpit and bomb bay references?

    Good evening everyone, I picked up a Trumpeter 1:72 Tu16k-10 (Badger C) recently and I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the badger's bomb bay or cockpit. Preferably, I would like to know about colours- what colours should I use for the cockpit interior and the bomb bay interior? I'm planning on fitting it with the AS6 Kingfish missiles on the wing mounting points, with a variety of bombs inside the bomb bay- was this a typical loadout or was the aircraft purely fitted with anti-shipping missiles? Many thanks, Sam
  9. Hi all, well here goes: my first 'WIP' thread on this forum. In truth the plane is all but complete (in my eyes anyway) but I have amassed a collection of progress pics along the way which I have now managed to upload to Photobucket. I won't post them all at once, instead I will drip-feed the pics here - mainly because I'd like to gain maximum benefit from people's suggestions, hints, tips, ideas etc along the way. For a bit of background, this is my first WW2 build in about 20 years, and although I know already of some mistakes I've made, I can at least say that it's a significant improvement on the one I made 20 years ago. I hope that by posting my progress here I will learn more about how to make even better models, from those who have obviously been there and done it all. So, having spent a considerable while building a stash of models of various scales, subjects, manufacturers etc, I sat down one weekend in January this year with one box, which looked interesting. Also, from online searches it appears not many discussions were being had regarding the making of it, so if nothing else at least I was trying something unusual. The down side of that was, no real experience to learn from. Ah well, here goes. To start with (and to prove to myself I have this 'embedding images' lark sorted) I offer the box-art: I will be honest and confess my ignorance here, I had no prior experience of manufacturers other than the 'big' names e.g. Airfix, Revell, Tamaiya etc. It further confused me to see on the instructions, the name 'AZ Model', which I had only vaguely heard of. Foolishly I neglected to take a picture of the sprues prior to commencing the build, but I can at least report that the moulding detail is fairly good, with little in the way of flash. The main annoyances were: 1. The instructions only give an diagrammatic indication of the part numbers at the start - no part numbers on the actual sprue itself. More than once I found myself looking at the diagram of what I was supposed to be building, then look at the sprue diagram to see where that part number was located, then to look at the actual sprue to try and find it. 2. There are no locating lugs anywhere for wings or tailplane, fuselage halves. So lining the parts up and keeping them there presented challenges a-plenty. 3. The undercarriage leg positions were 'helpfully' marked on the underside of the wings, however according to the paint diagram on the back of the box (which I neglected to notice until too late) said undercarriage should have been about 5mm further forward, such that one should be able to see the front of the wheels when viewing the aircraft from above. In my case, one definitely does not! Other than that, though, it was an interesting kit to build - although as I mentioned, I haven't quite finished it yet. OK, before I go any further I am going to post this to see if I've got the hang of this. If I have, then I will endeavour to post my pics at suitable intervals to allow for comments, questions etc!
  10. Hello! This is the first 'proper' build i've done for a few years, I'm rusty but back with vengeance. Far from perfect re: paint job, but it's a notorious kit to build. I've neatened up the cockpit and airbrake since I took these pics too. Can't wait to get my hands on the new tool Airfix kit! Up next: 1/200 Vulcan in anti flash. If anyone can tell me what image extensions i can use here, i'd be grateful. They all reject for me! In the meantime, pics here: http://postimg.org/gallery/2lgjzw3xg/31c2f0a1/ Chris
  11. Group Build Anyone?

    Hi, I'm not new to modeling, but I'm new to modelling websites. It's so cool to see other modelers in the community. I've seen many group builds and I wanted to start my own. It is with The 8th Air Force and the planes that were in it. The planes that you can make is: 1. P-38 Lightning 2. P-47 Thunderbolt 3. P-51 Mustang 4. B-17 Flying Fortress 5. B-24 Liberator 6. A-20 Havoc If You want any other planes in the build just ask me. The due date is March 5th. I'm doing the Revell P-51 in Ms. Marilyn II colors. All brands are accepted, just it has to be 1/48 scale. Thanks, and have fun! -Oliver P.S. Yes that is a Gabe Newell Quote
  12. Vickers Wellesley, one of those forgotten types from the unfashionable side of modelling. Here's the very first boxing that I will be using for the build: Typical Matchbox kit, basic but accurate to the eye. I'll add a few details but won't be going rivet crazy - actually theres very few rivets in the design as it is a smaller brother to it's more famous stablemate the Wellington and shares it's fabric covered geodesic structure. As befits the simple kit it's appears a simple build: Schemes are two similar green/brown birds differentiated by their engines. Option 1 is a standard short cowl Mk1, but option 2 is more interesting as it is a form generally associated with just 3 aircraft of the Long Range Development Unit that flew from England-Egypt-Australia with the longest leg being 7300miles (in 1938!). But to confuse matters the kit decals arent for one of these 3...but more on that later
  13. Hi everybody, just some random thoughts I had on my mind for some time and maybe anybody can comment on this or has some information or opinions on this subject. It strikes me that the USA, Great Britain and the Soviet Union took very different approaches to defensive armament on their bomber (and transport) aircraft in the cold war era. In the RAF, every bomber after the Lincoln and the Washington relied on high speed, high altitude (low flying later) and ECM for self protection. I am not sure if guns/cannons were provided for in the Short Sperrin but the Canberra and the V-Bombers had none. (The cannons on maritime patrol Shackleton were intended for strafing surface targets, I guess). The Soviets took a completely different approach: Even the relatively small Il-28 had a gunner’s position in the tail. The Tu-16, Tu-95 and M-4 virtually continued the B-29/Tu-4 layout with gun turrets in dorsal, ventral and rear positions. A remote controlled tail turret is still installed in the supersonic Tu-22 and Tu-22M/-26 while defensive guns/cannon are missing only on the Tu-160s. As far as I can see, tail turrets are still present on Tu-22Ms and Tu-95s used by the Russian Air Force today. In contrast to all Western designs even transport aircraft like the An-12 and Il-76 were designed with a tail turret. The US somehow chose a middle way between these two approaches: Dorsal and ventral turrets last appeared on the B-36, but the B-47, B-52 and (early) A3D/B-66 still had tail turrets as well as the supersonic B-58. I am not sure when the tail guns were removed from the B-52s. Maybe they were still carried during Desert Storm. AFAIK, over Vietnam at least one BUFF even scored a kill with its tail gun(s). Now I wonder what are the reasons for these different approaches? One might think that Soviet planes were somehow lacking in terms of ceiling, speed and ECM, but even the US clung to guns/cannons. Does anyone know if guns were meant to shoot down air-to-air missiles? It sounds unlikely given the size and speed of the target, however, modern warships use fast firing 20-30mm cannons as a last-ditch defense against ant-ship missiles. So what was/is the rationale behind the defensive armament on cold-war (and some of Russia’s today’s) bombers? Regards, Ole
  14. Deciding what to do for the future EB-66E build once I have cleared a space - its a big lump for a 72nd scale kit! Looks like a backate to a RB-66B is out due to lack of clear references to the camera positions and details, so OOB EB it is. Decided to go with the sharkmouth 54-438 simply because you don't see it often on such big birds. Nice picture of it p22 of the Aerofax monograph - but in 4 colour not 3 colour camo the kit instructions say. In itself not a problem except theres lack of an overall set of pix to complete the scheme. Can anyone help? .... It wasn't a one off panel or partial repaint as there are ages scattered shots of others with similar light+dark tan & greens but limited to partial side shots. If I could get a look from above then I could guesstimate the pattern using the standard 3 tone tan/field green/dark green. Note: appears to be JW coded birds only from what I've seen with the ref pic being 42nd TEWS/388TFW and maybe a Vietnam mod removed during a later stateside repaint (iaw with standard + kit scheme)
  15. Hi, This is my (almost) copleted Vickers Valiant. i say almost as not all of the decals are on it. i bought this kit from a particular internet auction site for about £40 inc P&P. i was a little irritated about the cost of the valiant kits as last autumn airfix were selling the valiant for £20 in their last chance to buy collection. this kit was a remarkably quick and easy build, as the only real interior detail is the bomb bay (which i left out) and the cockpit. the cockpit was a little basic, but the fit of parts was excellent. it needed a little filling on the fuselage halves and the bomb bay doors, but apart from that is was a relatively straight forward build. the model was painted with Humbrol Gloss White spray paint. i ended up spending £15 on the paint, as the cans are tiny! in future i think i will try to get better at airbrushing and airbrush instead. the decals had no silvering and were in good register. i had some issues with the paint seeing under the masking tape, in particular on the anti glair paint in front of the canopy. i made a few errors, such as the colour of the exhaust surrounds which will be fixed when i get the chance. Will
  16. Hi, this is my finished Tamiya Mosquito B MkIV (1/48 scale). technically this kit isn't finished as i haven't painted the cockpit frames yet as i have to wait for the masks to arrive, but i didn't think it was worth putting it in WIP just for that. this kit was a dream to build, as the only fit issue was a small one with the fuselage halves, which was solved by the removal of the rear firewall/bulkhead. the decals however were a big letdown. they had lots of silvering (i didn't apply gloss varnish as previously i have never really had any silvering on the cartography decals I've used) and even when micro sol was applied they had difficulties adhering to the details. also, i rather clumsily moved one of the decals that was covered in micro sol out of line, and when i try to move it back it split (my fault). before i built this kit i had little interest in the mosquito, but after building the kit and doing some research i am quito fond of it.
  17. Hi guys, been a while since I posted any work here, so it thought I would post up a recently finished kit. Here we have the old and very vintage Airfix Short Stirling bomber in 1:72. If any of you have built this kit (judging by its age there may well be a fair few of you out there) it is in the kindest possible term, a DOG. If it were a car, it would be a Mini Metro with bead mat seat covers and beige interior. I could list all the problems and jobs done to just get the kit to fit properly never mind gain more accuracy but it would be a three page epic so if anybody really wants to know, PM me and I can eventually email a full write up on what I did. Kit was painted with Vallejo Air Dark Earth, Dark Green, Mat Black and Humbrol Interior Green, three coats of Pledge gloss and the mat coat was Winsor and Newton. Weathering used Humbrol 11, oil pastels and some small amount of charcoal in places.
  18. Well She is finished. Big Bad Bonnie was the first B-25 i ever saw flying. Back in the early 80s at Stapleford in Essex. When Kitsworld produced the decals i new i had to build one. This one came up on ebay for a very good price so i snapped it up. The build went OK but it was one of those models where i had bad luck along the way. First of all i accidently poked the seats out after the model was already finished. This meant i had to get them back in through the turret opening , then the dog got hold of the nose glazing and cracked it. Luckily my friend had a spare one , then one of the scratchbuilt exhausts fell into the rear of the engine , which meant i had to pull the engine off to get it back out. The model Has been modified to represent the TB-25 , so i had to remove some exhaust stubs form the cowlings and make a new exhaust. The hardest part was scratchbuilding the new taller squarer carb intakes. It is fitted with SAC metal legs. I had seen and heard bad things about these but mine were perfect. The noseweight is the profimodeller one but i needed to add more to it so be aware! Wheels are the superb Brassin one. Prop blades are loon models and of coarse the decals from Kitsworld. Im very please its done , but im starting to wish i had gone for a 1/48 one. Its a bit large and i dont really know where to put it!
  19. Tamiya Lancaster 1:48

    Hi, everybody. After several months of lurking around here and finding myself in awe of the quality of the builds on here, I finally decided I'd sign up and post my own efforts. I picked up Tamiya's 1:48 Lancaster on eBay, the other day. I've always had a thing for Lancasters, and the kit was relatively cheap. I couldn't resist. I'm afraid though, it seems I've bitten off a bit more than I can chew - I wouldn't consider myself to be the most accomplished modeller, and the equipment I've got to work with is...well, rudimentary at best. I really want to do this kit justice, so I'd love some constructive criticism, advice, tips, tricks or anything else you might be willing to share Anyway, here's the early going (apologies for the iPhone camera quality) Got some of that Eduard PE too, to spruce up the interior a bit. Heard a lot about it, but never used it before. Utterly fantastic, and quite cheap too. Reckon I'll get some more for the bomb bay - although the kit bay comes with lots of studs on it that need to be removed. Anyone have any tricks for removing them, or am I in for a lot of sanding?
  20. Figured I'd go ahead and start this thread even though the kit won't be arriving until Tuesday. I've noticed all of the resin aftermarket parts for the Il-28 are for the Italeri kit, but I had ordered the Trumpeter kit already and it was cheap enough that I'm not worried about super-detailing. The markings will be from a NOS ESCI 1/72 sheet of Sudan (pre-60s), Somalia, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Honduras, and Cuba "national insignias" (roundels and flag tail markings). Now on to the other issues - every Il-28 kit in existence, from what I've read, is problematic. I think I'll be able to build it successfully, but references on this aircraft are fairly poor from what I've seen. The main discussions are about the Soviet version or the Chinese Harbin H-5, and most pictures are either Soviet or Polish. The Trumpeter kit comes with decals and a painting guide for the PLAAF, and I believe the VPAF, which is a green upper and grey lower surfaces scheme. I honestly think the only difference between the Il-28 kit and the Harbin H-5 kit is the box art. This is definitely not the scheme of the Somali Air Force in the 1970s. Every other operator seems to run either NMF or a grey scheme. This Romanian example is pretty wild - Which leads to the main issue - I have no references for how to paint this aircraft at all. I can apply the markings without much difficulty (excluding the serial number), but roundels and tail markings are pretty much universal in their placement. I have found this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftofj4wsFvY - but it's of very poor quality and does not appear to show any Il-28s. I have been unable to find a single photo of a Somali example so far. If Mr. Cooper has any input on this (I know it's not a MiG or Sukhoi, though), I would be most grateful. The only other images I found besides pictures of Soviet Bloc examples were these hand drawings of the cockpit and navigator's position. Any ideas? I'm thinking they probably flew them as they were painted on delivery, which would be the Soviet scheme (right?). I'm a little hesitant to try doing NMF on my second aircraft. I feel like I need a lot more practice before I try that. Likely to end up a neutral grey underside with a darker gloss grey upper surface. I feel like I've seen Polish examples of that. Still, painting is a long, long way off.
  21. Hello, Having noticed a dearth of discussion regarding said kit, I thought I'd start the ball rolling myself. Sprue pics are already floating on the Net, however here are mine. Looks like this boxing is the only one that we'll get, with optional parts for early and late versions and something for the spare box as well. Manufacturers take advice: the fuselage interior shape follows, well, is the actual fuselage: the Karman fairing is a separate part. Great for accuracy, although it remains to be seen how this will affect putting on the wings. With respect to their first kit, ejection pin marks are more in check, and there is some detail on the inside of the wheel wells: You get enough bombs to prevent takeoff. I don't think the Il-4 was ever armed with rockets, however their provision doesn't certainly harm no one. Spare box, here we come! A rather unusual load is an AMG-1 naval mine with aerodynamic fairing; there's also a torpedo (possibily a 45-36-AN model?), one FAB-1000 and two FAB-500 bombs. If you build the bomber version the torpedo can be used for a Soviet A-20... What let me down is the width of the panel lines. What to do here? Mr.Surfacer? Stretched sprue? Bite the bullet? Suggestions are welcome. Some oddities of the surface detail: Rendition of the fabric has improved a bit: There are a lot of parts for the interior, but the detail is rather on the soft side: The clear parts are thick but clear. You get a dorsal turret and a half (the difference is in the number of frames), the other half might be a starting point for a field-modified Boston...? This was the feature I was most anxious about. How do the nose windows fare? Fit seems good but they sit 'recessed', not flush. Thinning of the fuselage in correspondance to the frames is in order. Part of the engine. See what I mean about the 'soft' detail? Re the decals, we're finally spoiled for choice. Register is good. However, there's a bit of a problem with the star borders and other details: the white and especially the yellow don't quite cover. This kit will satisfy enthusiasts first and foremost by virtue of its existence, however in some regards (surface detail...) it's a step back from the Tu-2. Pity. Still, I'd rather put together this one rather than wait for Tamiya. If I get some spare time today, I could try and tape it together to check for fit and shape. HTH, Bone
  22. Bombers... what's out there?

    Hello, I've been bitten by the bomber bug and wonder what kits are available in injected plastic and in 1-72. These are the types that I know about, can you add more? Martin MB-2 Martin B-10 Douglas B-18 H.P. Hampden A.W. Whitley Hawker Hart Vickers Vimy Bristol Blenheim I Fiat Cicogna S.M.79 and 81 CANT Z.1007 Tupolev SB Tupolev TB-3 Amiot 143 Potez 540 Bloch 200 and 210 Heinkel He.51 Junkers Ju.86 Junkers Ju.87A Heinkel He.111B, ecc. Dornier Do.17 Kawasaki Ki.48 Mitsubishi G3M Aero A-100 Admittedly I know very little about the single engine types.
  23. Desperately seeking WW II

    I`m looking to purchase the following models 1. WW II Bomber re-supply set 1-48 scale 2. Lancaster aircrew & ground crew, same scale Please contact me & if you can supply pictures as well please. Thank you
  24. Matchbox Victor...I'm guilty.

    Hello So first post...and my god I feel so happy with this. So I've always loved the V-Force. Cliche I know, but I do love them. I already have a Valiant and Vulcan at home (both Airfix kits). I got a Victor a few years back too, the Matchbox one. I got it complete on eBay for the stellar price of £8 and P&P. Bargin. I haven't realy started it...ok I did but the paintwork is awful and when I get my airbrush/compressor set I'll do some practice models and move onto it. So here's the pretty box...(please don't judge my need-copious-amounts-of-cleaning carpet) So I haven't really explored my local area before...and I said to my partner after work one day I wanted to see a few shops. I know we have a web based store here that lets you purchase from it's warehouse directly but I wanted to see a more traditional one like I'm used to in Swindon - you know the sort, walls of models and too much choice? So as I said I had one Victor already. Well there was one sat there in the second hand section. I grabbed it and checked it was complete - one thing missing off the sprue but rolling around in the box. I couldn't resist - I've seen these sell for £50 on eBay now and it was only £30...so I got it. I had to. So I now have 2 Victors...and maybe 2 Vulcan kits soon too. Somebody help me xD Also, isn't that artwork just glorious?
  25. WWII RAF Bomber Re-supply Set 1:72 Airfix As Bomber Command increased the air campaign against the Axis forces in WWII, the demand to handle logistics on the airfields grew both technically and in activity. The four engine bombers in comparison to the earlier twins carried more fuel, more bombs, more ammunition and more crew and stood higher off the ground, so re-supplying them needed more dedicated equipment. The ‘Tilly’, derived from the name ‘utility’ vehicle became familiar for moving crew around the airfields early in the war. When you think that a Lancaster fully fueled needed over 2000 gallons of fuel, bowsers had to be sufficiently large to make them practical for readying a squadron with short turnaround. Also needed with the Merlins was oil. Unlike modern engines, these drunk fuel at a hefty rate, so the Brockhouse bowser with a 450 gallon capacity became a common sight topping up the oil tanks between missions. The Bedford truck came in different guises utilising the same chassis. The MWC carried a water tank for topping up radiators on the bombers, where as the MWD was used for ferrying crews around the bases. It’s easy to forget the shear amount of effort required on an airfield to fuel, bomb, maintain and crew a squadron of four engined ‘heavies’, but without these men and machines, the bombers would never have achieved their goals. The kit Airfix have produced airfield sets in the past so there’s nothing new there, but this is the first set that delivers such a wide array of equipment found on a bomber airfield whilst delivering on the quality standards that they’ve now set themselves. Within the end opening box, wrapped in fantastic artwork, you get 5 light grey sprues, 1 clear sprue, a decal sheet, comprehensive A4 instruction booklet and a colour painting & decaling guide. The instructions are broken down by equipment type for ease of following. First impressions are excellent. Crisp moulding with stunning detail leave you in no doubt that you’re looking at a 21st century kit. So what do you get in the kit? Standard Light Utility Vehicle - Standard 12hp 4x2 'Tilly' Bedford Truck built as either MWC or MWD David Brown VIG1 Tractor/Tug Motorcycle - 500CC Maintenance Tower Bowser - 450 Gallon Bomb Trolley - Type C (x2) Bomb Trolley - Type F Small Bomb Containers (SBC) - with 4lb incendiaries (x6) 1000lb Bombs (x6) 500lb Bombs (x6) 8000lb Cookie 4000lb Cookie Ladder Bike Chocks Fuel Cans Oil drum The Bedford trucks... The two trucks share a common build guide to create the chassis with no less than 23 parts making it up. Unfortunately, you can only make the MWD or the MWC, you can’t make both. The MWD has a wood / canvas rear end. The wooden panels are superbly reproduced with recessed butt lines. The MWC has an equally well produced rear end for the water container. Clear doors eliminate the need for gluing windows in so there’s no risk of getting white glue lines around the window. The doors can be mounted in the open position. A clever touch is the use of rounded hubs to mount the front wheels on. This allows them to be positioned in any turning direction. These small details have been well thought out and go along way to adding realism and life into a diorama. The Tilly... A combination of wood and steel panels with a canvas top are well replicated on the Tilly. Protruding rivets are visible on the steel panels. A useful touch is that the canvas roof for the front cabin is made from clear plastic due to the small windows integrated into them behind the doors. This will eliminate any risk of glue marks from inserting tiny windows. Whilst the construction is quite simple, the detail in the parts make an impressive model. As with the Bedfords, the doors are made from clear plastic and the front wheels can be positioned at any angle. Tractor... Whilst we’ve seen an earlier tractor in the Stirling kit, this is a TRACTOR! The detail is so much better and again benefits from positionable front wheels. Oil bowser... This comes with an articulated front bogie and independent chassis. There’s a toolbox moulded into the front end which is then hidden by doors, so it might be worth considering to cut these doors and have them in the open position. I find it a little strange that the instructions don’t show this option and a lack of cut line or detail on the reverse side of the doors indicates that wasn’t planned. Trestle.. A common site in airfield photographs is trestles butted up around the engines with ground crew beavering away under the hoods! I made one of these years ago out of soldered steel rod and thin wood. Having these parts available saves a lot of work. The parts are quite delicate but finely moulded, again with superbly replicated wooden planks. As with all the vehicles, the wheels are stunningly realistic. Bombs & bomb trolleys... No airfield is complete without the very reason Bomber Command existed. The sole purpose was to deliver an unwelcome payload to the enemy. A great selection of finely detailed bombs are included in the set from the 8000lb Cookie right down to the 500lb and SBC's. There's going to be some left over for other kits here as well as giving your display it's purpose. The fins on the small bombs are a little thick if one looks for a criticism, so you may want to thin them out using a scalpel or cut them off and scratch them if it concerns you. Two type C trolleys are included for the 500/1000lb bombs and a type F for the Cookies. The motorbike is a little work of art, formed in three pieces and positionable front forks, this is a great extra. A decal sheet adds the important detail markings to the vehicles and bombs. I’ve never been a fan nor any good at painting the coloured rings on bombs, so these are rather welcome! Conclusion It would of been nice to have two complete Bedford trucks rather than being forced into a choice. Apart from that, this really is a stunning set at a great price. The detail and clever design adds great realism in a small scale. If this and the recent Lancaster B.II is a sign of the direction that Airfix are going, the next few years are going to be rather exciting for anyone interested in the Bomber Command era. I’ve just started work on an airfield base so the timing of this set is perfect to bring it to life around the aircraft display. Review sample courtesy of
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