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Found 31 results

  1. During a sort out in the loft I have come across a kit of a 1/144th DC-3 in a snap-top polybag with no instructions nor decals. This polybag was tucked inside box containing a 1/72nd Italeri DC-3 I bought secondhand at a show a couple of years ago - that kit is complete with decals and instructions and I assume the previous owner had forgotten about the 1/144th kit in with it! The 1/144th DC-3 kit is injected moulded in the caramel-coloured plastic I have seen AeroClub use for their own kits in the past and has finely cast metal parts in a separate polybag. A Google search brings up no mention of an AeroClub 1/144th DC-3 but lots of mentions of Welsh Models 1/144th vacform kits - this definitely is not vacform!! Can anyone help identify this kit? Second question is ' is it accurate' - it looks like a DC-3 but ...... See JohnAero's reply below for the full story - many thanks for the info, John!!
  2. This Meteor used to be at an Air Training Corps close to where I used to live and the colour scheme always interested me. I got an Aeroclub winch and an old Matchbox Meteor NF so that left no excuses. The decals are a combination of my own and those from the kit. The target towing gear under the rear fuselage is scratchbuilt. Steve
  3. Well this really is my first RFI for ages, I've been battling with this mixed media kit for months and finally given in, definitely going to stick with injection kits now I've removed this from the loft lol! Ive had this kit for ages and finally decided to build it last Christmas to go with my Airfix F6 - to be fair the kit goes together ok, just my cack handed modelling that made it more difficult. The base kit was actually an F3 but I wanted to do an F1a as I had a spare Airfix F1 fin. So with that in mind its probably not 100% accurate, I shortened the ducting on the lower fuselage but theres probably more I should have done. The Eagle Eyes among you will probably notice the markings on the fin are not quite right for an F1 either, they are modified F3 decals kindly supplied by fellow Britmodeller Rob G (Cheers mate!). All OOB apart from the pitot tube. Paint used was Revell Aquacolour Aluminium & Silver and yellow and black for the spine and fin. Anyway, here is it, only managed to get a few passable photos :-)
  4. I am still awaiting the arrival of my Welsh Models Albatross kit, so had another rummage around and came across this little fella. There are not a lot of parts but the masking for the paint should prove to be enough of a challenge to keep things interesting, I may even make an attempt at rigging it too.
  5. HR686 of 502 Sqn took off on the night of the 3rd October 1944 from RAF Stornoway for another routine operation looking for targets of opportunity in the sea off Norway. The Germans were moving men and equipment from Norway to Europe to reinforce their defences following the allied invasion. A typical cold dark & wet night in that part of the world with a low cloud base, the 9 crew went about their duties routinely. The aircraft was loaded with depth charges and enough fuel for 12 hours meaning that the fuselage bomb bay was laden with fuel leaving the wing cells to carry the depth charges. Eventually a target was picked up on the ASV radar and the aircraft dropped down to investigate. Cloud cover was broken at just 800ft, where the contact appeared to be illuminated leading them to think it was a neutral vessel causing them to turn away and call off the attack. This was a tragic move as the illuminations were in fact gun fire from the ship Amisia. The inner port engine was hit along with other damage and there was no option for pilot F/O McManus but to prepare for a ditching. A successful ditching was made and its believed that all crew escaped alive, but the life raft that is located just behind the port inner was burned, hence useless. Fortunately, one of the inflated main wheels came to the rescue allowing them to stay afloat. Rescue was made at dawn break by the Amisia but unfortunately, only 5 of the crew had survived long enough. 3 of the crew were missing and were never recovered, the body of F/O La Palme was washed up on a beach in Norway. The 5 survivors became POW's and lived to tell the story, unlike many of their fellow squadron crews who simply went missing on these long and lonely missions, most of which became victims to their intended targets. Build HERE. The kit is the flawed Revell Mk.II. Fortunately, Aeroclub provide complete engine nacelle and propeller replacements. I'd wanted to do a Tollerton Z Nosed version for a while and was inspired by the reading of the Coastal Command missions in Merricks fantastic book 'Halifax - From Hell to Victory & Beyond'. This lead me to choosing HR686 as a basis using the Freightdog Z Nose and mid upper fairing. Whilst there is only one known photo of this aircraft, photo's of other aircraft in the white livery show them to be somewhat dirty with heavy oil streaks on the lower surfaces of the wings and engines. I wanted to replicate this effect, so it was a great excuse to get carried away with the pastels! On the whole, a pleasant build and the Aeroclub engines make a big difference to the look of the Revell kit. I also used a few bits from an Airfix Lanc that were left over from conversions; the main wheels (although Aeroclub provide these) and the Rebecca aerials due to being more refined. There were a few assumptions made, the first is that there is a gun protruding from the nose above which you would expect for anti ship & sub missions....I've just noticed I've located it too low, god knows how I made that mistake!! Also, I painted the fuel tanks in the bomb bay black, although there is a very good chance they were brick red. Anyway, enough blurb, here's the pics... Thanks for looking
  6. Once in a blue moon a rare site of one of John Aeroclubs Vacform 1/48 Avro Vulcan appears on a popular auction site........one has appeared recently and its a snip at only £575 plus a meer £28 postage and packing, check it out @ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-48-Aeroclub-BAe-Avro-VULCAN-B-Mk-2-/391678674581?hash=item5b31de4695:g:de0AAOSwNnRYfSDY I have no interest in this item, I just like to see what Johns Vulcans sell at. I dont think he made many and eventually he buried the moulding tool under his rockery in his garden. Try sneeking this box past your partner when she is not looking!!!
  7. Only the second build to cross the finish line this year, the Canberra is now done. Not one of my best builds, probably trying to rush to get it off the bench having stared at it for so long, but the paintwork is surprisingly complicated, not only with stripes, but with cut outs in the stripes for the codes, damn inconsiderate of the RAF to do this! At some point, I'd like to do a silver one as the Canberra has such graceful lines that are lost somewhat on this scheme. Built using the Airfix PR.9 (Edit: B(1).8!!!), CMK gear bay and flap sets, Aeroclub wheels and B.2 conversion and scratch built bomb bay with thanks to John (Canberra Kid) and his excellent website (http://ipmscanberrasig.webs.com/) for some great references. The decals were a mix of Airfix and Model decal for WH640. Despite my best efforts, there is still evidence of silvering on them.The intake FOD covers were Flightpath ones, although slightly too big they were filed down until they fitted in to the intakes as they should. You can see the build HERE The B.2 conversion comes with a resin canopy, but I used the Aeroclub vac form one instead. Despite sticking a ruddy great bolt up front, it is still a tail sitter, so had to use the supplied tail stand in the Airfix kit which I've photoshopped out of most of the photo's. Thanks for looking Cheers Neil
  8. Started to play around with the Canberra this week, so I guess that means its started! Got some goodies, not included in the photo below are some seats kindly donated by John (Canberra Kid) that I need to dig out of the aftermarket box too. I've already chopped the nose off the Airfix kit and dry fitted the Aeroclub nose conversion, so far so good. I'd planned to build as WH640 in PR blue, MSG and DG with stripes, but fancy doing a silver scheme too that shows off the graceful lines of the Canberra better. I'll reserve the decision for now, but open to thoughts and suggestions. Here's the resin flaps, u/c bays and B.2 main wheels, some nice resin to bling the build up a bit Cheers Neil
  9. Academy Hawker Hunter F.6 in 1:48 I've used Aeroclub correction set and FM details resin, check more of the build on http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234979788-148-iraqi-hawker-hunter-f6-academy-aeroclub-fm/ The decal are Iraqi fighters by Linden Hill. It was quite a complicated build, many needed corrections; the dog tooth, the exhaust, rounding the tip edges, moving the tail planes and the airbrake, etc. I could do more on the nose and the canopy - I have trimmed the back frame, which makes a bit short, no rails done which makes it a bit off... anyway, here it is... for more info and pics, please check http://militaryaviation148.blogspot.si/2016/01/hawker-hunter-iraqi-air-force-399.html Thanks for looking in.
  10. Gannet AEW.3 XL479 849 Naval Air Squadron ‘A’ Flight, HMS Victorious, 1967 Aeroclub Gannet AEW.3 conversion kit + Frog Gannet AS4 When I saw Sword was doing the Gannet AEW.3 I knew I had to have one as I had flown in the beast way back in the 1970s. It would have to be finished as XL472 – the one I flew in. And it was so! I had had this old Aeroclub conversion in the stash for decades so it was time to throw it away. I thought I would have a good look first, though. Then I saw those beautifully moulded white metal parts and the crisp vac-form parts and quickly realised this was far too good to go in the bin. So I got on with it. There were a few difficult moments (for example when I found I had lost the nose wheel leg and had to fabricate a new one) but actually most of it went together really well, and I’m convinced the finished product looks more like an AEW.3 than the Sword one – but I’m biased! Having done XL472, this one had to be XL479 which I saw at the Coltishall Battle of Britain display in 1967 when I was merely 16 years old. These are the Aeroclub parts : The Frog wings with white metal leading edges , undercarriage bays, bulges for the flap hinges and panel scribing added : Airframe ready for priming : Wing top surface after priming :
  11. K3129 No.7 Flying Training School, RAF Peterborough.
  12. Saro Skeeter

    This has been sitting at this stage for a while as it has a vacuum formed canopy. Two of my pet hates, vac formed transparencies and masking. So here we go. 'In for a penny .......' Hasn't been helped that it fell when bringing it for its photo opportunity and then stood on, bending and breaking one of the undercarriage legs. Not irretrievable though.
  13. Hi all, I will give my Aeroclub Tiger Moth a go: The main parts are limited run injection molded plus some thick etched brass parts for the struts and a nice set of decals but they do not include what I have in mind. I would like to do an over all Trainer Yellow RAF maschine - maybe with polished cowl. But not sure yet. A set of new stencil decals is the only extra I have (right now...): I need to get another build done soon so progress on the Moth will be slow the next days. If anyone knows a Tiger Moth in RAF service in overal yellow please let me know ;-) Rene
  14. The Navy trialled three Skeeters, WF112, WF113 and WF114 around 1950/51. The trials didn't go anywhere and the Skeeters were handed/sold back to Saro and subsequently went to the AAC. I picked up this Aeroclub kit at SMW a year or so ago and it is an engaging little thing. The WIP is quite far along as I didn't keep a record and I have only just managed to sort out photobucket. It's mixed media, injected, white metal (including the cockpit which makes it stand on its tricycle undercart) and a vac formed canopy. It's a little stalled mainly as I attacking a couple of Hurricanes for the Battle of Britain GB and my inmate fear of vac formed canopies. But here is the little fellow so far. It is tiny, about 3 inches long. It's built pretty much OOB with a little detailing in the cockpit and some of the drive details. The drive details are from a corner of plastic packing smoothed out with filler while the drive wheel is a circular piece of plastic mounted on wire. The fire extinguisher is a Blenheim anti personnel bomb trimmed, the instrument panel wires are indeed wires and the straps Tamiya Tape, with the cyclic a piece of wire. Aluminium paint is brushed on Revell aluminium thoroughly thinned with Flow Improver.
  15. To be able to display the Liberty V12 next to some of the Land Speed Record models in which the engine was used - Golden Arrow and a number of Blue Birds (which are slighly large at 1:43 scale), I bought an Aeroclub white metal kit a long time ago. Recently I got it out and started working on it, but found that there are a number of smaller parts that I have no clue where to put. The kit I bought did not have any instructions, so I am a bit lost. Looking at schemattics and/or pictures of the 1:1 engine does not really help much, and looking at other kits of the same/similar engine built gives me the same problems! Do instructions for this particular kit exist at all? Does anyone know? Thankis in advance for any help you could give me! Cheers, Arie
  16. John Adams of Aeroclub fame has graciously posted his tutorial on how to build vacform models on this forum before, but unfortunately during our various moves the thread seems to have got lost in the sands of time. I managed to find a copy the other day, so am pleased to re-post it, along with my personal thanks to John for this, as it probably saved me from disaster when I decided to do my first vacformed model back when I hadn't even completed an ordinary injection moulded kit yet! Anyway - here it is. I've added a bit about Zip Kicker from my experiences, but other than a few typos and some reformatting, it's almost untouched VACFORM MODELLING, a new approach? by John W.Adams Models featuring the vacuum formed method of construction have been around for a long time. However, many people who consider themselves to be competent modellers, will still not attempt this form of construction. Also I speak with an equal number of modellers who have had a go at vacuum forms and made (what appears to them) to be irredeemable mistakes and given up in disgust. Why? Do they lack confidence, patience or skill? Perhaps the answer lies in the traditional techniques. These vary slightly on the theme, "cut out and sand down parts using an abrasive covered board either wet or dry". Some advise modellers to leave a rim of waste plastic around the part. The theory here being that when this rim wears down to a thin membrane and breaks off, the correct thickness has been achieved. In fact, if the average wall thickness is 1mm and a rim of 2mm has to be sanded away, that to me spells 3 times the effort. Let us look at the problems. 1. Vacforms are difficult to cut out 2. I can't see how far to sand down 3. My fuselages end up like bananas 4. Parts are difficult to hold whilst sanding down And some common mistakes. 5. My trailing edges end up too thick and the wing appears flat 6. I make a mess of cutting out cockpits and wheel wells 7. I have taken too much plastic off Now let us look at some answers. Start off with the right tool for the job, a good knife with a replaceable blade is essential. I always use a straight edged blade such as a Swann Morton 10A pointed blade with a No3 handle. (The No 11 blade can be too fragile). This type of blade is good for most jobs, but knives such as Edding and Stanley are best for heavier work. Olfa and Scribe 'N' Cut, make tools whose primary purpose is scribing panel lines but can be used to score through very thick material. I use blades with a curved edge, only for scraping. Hold the scalpel comfortably like a pen and angled away (about 45 deg) from the piece to be removed. Score all around the part using reasonable pressure. 1. The first myth to dispel, is that vacforms are not cut out by brute force, but merely scored around with a sharp blade. Once the surface of most sheet material has been broken by a cut or score and that sheet is then stressed by bending so as to open the cut, the sheet will invariably break along the cut, no matter how wiggly the score line. Always take some cuts out to the edge of the sheet and start the break-out there. Practice on a piece of waste plastic. 2. Before scoring out the parts we must have a marker to show how much plastic will require removing by scraping or sanding (abrading) so the parts will fit together. We can use a fine (0.1) pointed marker pen, preferably permanent ink. A soft sharp B pencil will suffice. I find the best results are with a Rotring .25 (or similar make) drawing pen ideally filled with the type of ink specified for use on plastic drafting film (I use both Red and Black ink for contrast). Simply draw around each part where the part meets the backing sheet. This ink line shows us where we score and where we need to remove plastic. Be accurate. The ink line is King. The part when broken out is then sanded down to the pen line (more anon). 3. Fuselages end up like bananas, because, when using the traditional techniques any pressure on the centre of the fuselage will cause the part to bow, and as this is usually at the widest/deepest part, the wall plastic will be thinner. The waste plastic at the ends of a tapered fuselage, drop tank or nacelle or wing tip (where a mould cavity narrows) will be thicker. Consequently the centre edges of the part abrades away more quickly than the ends. Also slight 'moulded in' stresses can cause a part to bow when released from the constraints of the backing sheet. Obey the ink line and the parts will straighten and fit, when taped together. Paragraph 4. should provide a solution. 4. When using the traditional abrasive paper covered board the following formula applies. ‘Finger ends tend to disappear at the same rate as the plastic’, or when the water turns red, that's far enough! Also parts are slippery and tend not to want to move against the drag of the abrasive. There is nothing to grip, on such as tailplane halves or wheel halves. We need some form of adhesive tape which is resistant to shear (drag) loads, and tacky enough to grip on a curved surface, and yet peel off easily when required. Also something to hold the part in comfort. A method often employed to hold parts whilst sanding is to use some ordinary kind of sticky tape, either made into a loop or of the double sided variety, often using a piece of wood as a handle. These tapes are not made for the job and are either too strong or too weak. The part keeps falling off or will not come off easily. BluTak is equally uncooperative when used for this purpose. The answer is Sticky-pads and Tee-Al. (If this just sounds like a blatant advertisement, the simple truth is - they work)! Sticky-pads measure 12mm x 25mm and have a fabric base coated with a high-tack but highly peelable adhesive which is very resistant to side loads. Tee-Al is simply handy lengths of Tee section aluminium extrusion used as handles, other materials can of course be used. When these two items are combined, handling of vacform parts becomes very easy. A suitable piece of Tee-Al has one or more Sticky-pads removed from the backing strip and positioned on the top face of the 'Tee' and then the protective wax paper is removed from the pad. The vacform part to be worked on is simply pressed into place and abrading or scraping can begin. Even small curved or rounded parts can be secured by this method. In trials I have easily held and sanded down the mating surfaces of small difficult to hold parts such as drop tank and wheel halves. Highly curved parts like propeller spinners can be held by drilling a hole (in a piece of wood) and cover it with a Sticky- Pad, cut radial slits in the Pad and push in the spinner. A pair of wheel halves took a mere 3 minutes including cutting out. Sanding down the parts. For sanding (abrading) the parts I prefer to make my own handy sanders by affixing abrasive paper of the required grit (80!) to a piece of Tee-Al (or wood, even tube) with ordinary double sided tape (I recommend the new Sellotape range). Thus a whole range of sanding tools can be created for little cost. Alternatively you can use a Sandvik Handy Sander fitted with a medium Sandplate. Sandplates are rectangular metal self adesive plates (110x60 mm) with a pin point textured surface fitted to an orange plastic, comfortable handle. It is an excellent tool and widely available. Sandvik also produce a smaller tapered Hobby sander which has its uses. Sandvik also make a larger type but beware as I have found the moulded plastic handles may have a slight curve, and so the plate is not truly flat, however the self-adhesive plate (220x60mm) suitably mounted can be very useful (I have one on the bench top). I sometimes use a 10 inch single cut File (Farmers friend) of the type sold for sharpening lawn mowers (the handle is forged on the blade). Leading and trailing edges can be reduced most effectively by scraping, using a heavy duty craft knife blade (Stanley knife). This is held almost at right angles to the surface and scraped to and fro along the wings inner surface. Use the curved type for single surface biplane wings. If you want to use two hands, then Tee-Al can be easily held in a small vice. Scraping is by far the best method and is a very fast way of removing material. You can scratch build wings this way. When a Polyhedral wing (cranked or gull) is encountered, just treat the wing in separate stages. There are other advantages to using this system. Work can be carried out at a convenient eye level thus enabling closer monitoring of the plastic removal. Parts such as wings are kept flat. You can work over a sink wet or dry so the dust can be washed away. Dust is the enemy of the tacky surface. Once adhered to a dry surface, Sticky-Pads will remain in place even under water. If water gets between the pad and the part, adhesion will cease, but can be reactivated by drying. Trailing edges must be treated separately to the leading edges, which is the answer to problem no 5 (flat wings). If you draw a chord line through a section of vacform wing (representing the flat abrasive board) it should be noticed that the leading edge meets this line at a much steeper angle, presenting a smaller area to the abrasive than the trailing edge. This means that more plastic will have to be removed from the latter. So if the old abrasive board method of sanding is employed, it's all too easy to take off too much of the leading edge whilst concentrating on the trailing edge, if both edges are in contact with the board at the same time. Let us now take a look at cutting out waste areas such as wheel bays cockpits or windows. As a general rule I do not remove waste areas until I have most of the mating surfaces sanded down, unless they project in some manner as to be a nuisance to progress. Whilst still in place, waste areas help with maintaining rigidity. With a cockpit, or nose wheel, or gun position cut-out such as on the conventional fuselage split line, it is best to line up the two halves and secure them with a little tape. When you are satisfied that all is correct, score around the matching waste areas to be removed. Now separate the taped halves and where the score lines reach the edge of the part, make a positive nick with the knife. Now support the fuselage at the nick with the finger and thumb or a small pair of pliers, and then start to shear the waste with the other thumb nail or a second pair of pliers. When the waste part is beginning to move, change to the other side of waste bit and start off the shear there. Within seconds the tear should follow round the score line and the waste part should break cleanly out. When pressure is first applied some distortion may be apparent but you will notice it springs out. For rectangular areas in thicker material, make two cuts with a fine razor saw, the ends of which are joined with a score line and then cracked out. When an aperture needs to be made in in a fuselage side or a wing surface we apply a slightly different technique. Score around the area accurately and carefully. It does not matter if the shape is rounded or square, but if the shape of the required cut-out is complex (for instance a Spitfire wheel bay) divide into separate areas, i.e. a circle and a rectangle. Now score diagonal lines across the waste areas within the scored outline and at the intersection of these lines make a hole by forcing in the scalpel tip or if the plastic is too thick make a hole with a small drill. Using the scalpel tip, start to apply a cutting pressure along each diagonal in turn. It will be noticed that the little tri-angular pieces are starting to curl inwards shearing along the scored lines. Now, take a blunt instrument like a small screwdriver, simply push in the triangles one by one. They should drop out like petals, with moderate force. A pair of needle nosed pliers may be helpful in removing the waste and it actually takes less time than reading this paragraph. For very thick plastic, use a fretsaw / piercing saw. If you do not possess either of these useful saws, or a razor saw, you should! Glues For vacuum forms use the thin liquid solvent glues. These are often Methyl Ethyl Ketone based. The correct method of use is to hold the parts together and apply the glue to the joint with a brush or Touch 'N' Flow solvent applicator. Capillary action will take the glue through the joint while light pressure is applied. I do not recommend solvent glues for laminating plastic sheet (use slow set Cyano). Always work in a well ventilated room when using any solvent based glue and keep the glue covered when not in use. The wide family of Cyanoacrylate or more commonly called 'super-glues' are best used when small or dissimilar materials are to be joined, or reinforcements or instant results are required. If cyanos are used on canopies a white 'blooming' of the transparency may occur. This is caused by the 'gassing' cyanoacrylate reacting on contact with the hygroscopic plastic surfaces, and being clear you can see it. Do not remove the top of your cyano bottle and dispense glue straight from the bottle, the tingle in your eyes is the same effect as on your canopy! Buy a small glass mirror or culture dish lid and dispense a drop of glue at a time, dip a pin or a cocktail stick into this to apply the glue. For a measured drop try breaking off the tip of the eye of a small needle so as to produce a fork (be careful of your own eyes when doing this). You will need to clean out the fork with the tip of a blade occasionally. An excellent way of dispensing along “run” of cyano is to use an old fashioned draftsman's bow pen, just load with cyano instead of ink. No it won't work with a Rotring type pen. There are a number of accelerators (often called "kickers") on the market which speed up the setting rate of cyanoacrylate glues. These can contain 1.1.1. Trichloroethane, so treat with caution. They can also cause the plastic of your model to become brittle and craze, or even crack if put under any pressure, so use sparingly. Ordinary Bicarbonate of Soda has a similar effect, and can be used for building up areas quickly. I will expand on this later. Transparencies These seem to give more than their fair share of problems. I seldom put a knife anywhere near a canopy, instead preferring a small very sharp pair of scissors. Buy high quality. Next, can you see what you are doing. I find that working against a mono coloured background a help. You will find the background required varies according to the light. If the frame lines are indistinct, then cut strips of masking tape and use them to define the no - go areas. Work carefully, trim the waste off a little at a time, Flex-I-files are good for sanding the edges, but remember to remove the dust and most importantly do test the fit of the canopy to the fuselage frequently. When you are finally satisfied with the fit, hold the canopy in place. Now run a brush full of liquid glue around the edge, then apply slight pressure. Repeat with the glue and hold for a minute. If you allow the glue to dry you will find that the canopy is nicely bedded in. It can be easily removed for painting and may be finally affixed using Krystal Klear. P.V.A. base glues such as Kystal Klear are the best for affixing transparencies. Apply with a small brush or cocktail stick. Any excess can be cleaned off with a damp cloth. P.V.A. can also be thinned with water. If there is no moulded rim on which to seat the canopy then glue strips of thin plastic card to form a rim around the inside of the cabin opening. Should you then find that the fuselage plastic is of thicker gauge material than the canopy, then simply build up or pad out the rim with narrower strips, until the canopy is flush with the fuselage surface. This is fiddly but not difficult, but remember if you have over sanded the fuselage, your canopy will not fit! Battle Damage Repairs Or, "I've taken off too much plastic". It's not the end of the model, we can repair most mistakes. Most initial problems are caused by failing to mark or score out accurately. So if for instance an inconsistent score line has caused a piece to stay with the backing sheet when breaking out, simply retrieve it and glue into place using super-glue, then sand down as normal. If it's a large tear/spilt then you might want to reinforce with a piece of plastic card. All repairs are best carried out using super-glue (CA, Cyano, Cyanoacrylate), because you get instant strong joints, which sand well. A more common mistake is, over sanding of parts - especially on fuselage halves. Usually this is caused by not obeying the ink line or by being over enthusiastic when sanding down and not checking often enough. If one fuselage side has had too much removed from the middle (banana) then the answer is to assemble the parts together with tape and assess how much is missing. Once this is ascertained, glue some suitable strips (taper if required) into the gap, gluing only to the wounded side. Gap filling cyano can be used but if this is not at hand, use super-glue and bi-carbonate of soda (baking powder) to bridge the gaps. You just apply super glue and then a pinch of bi-carb, this soaks in the glue and instantly sets hard, Repeat the process until the wound is filled. Then restore the contours using a tool such as Flex-I-File or Flex-I-Pad. The result will be a strong hard repair much quicker than using two part or tube fillers. If the case is a trailing edge with a large piece missing, then the best approach is to cut out the area and square it up, then glue into place a piece of suitable size plastic strip, use super-glue and/or baking powder again and file to shape. When damage occurs to a corner of a wing tip, prop blade or something like the end of a tip tank or radome, simply apply super-glue and then dip in a small pile of bicarb, this will harden immediately. Repeat the process until a suitable sized blob has formed and then file back to shape. If you have to use those vacform props then this is the solution for filling the blades. When joining fuselage halves it is usual to strengthen the joint with strips or tabs of plastic card glued into one half so as to form a rim on to which the other fuselage half fits. A better fit will be achieved on very curvaceous fuselages if these tabs are placed at intervals and stick outwards, 10 thou card is best. It is a tedious job cutting a number of these tabs, so I use an office paper punch to produce a load of little plastic discs which will contour nicely around the inside of a fuselage half, even if the half fuselage does look temporarily like a Viking ship. Perhaps here a word of caution about choosing your subject. Vacuum form kits vary in quality. If you have never before attempted a vacuum-formed kit please don't be tempted to go out and buy that 15 year old Scruggs Four Engined Wonderplane kit. Instead try a few simple exercises, get some plastic card and make a new tailplane for that damaged Mustang, or practice making holes in a piece of plastic card. There are lots of cheap vacuum formed kits around often from Eastern Europe, and they can be picked up at model shows. Examine the kit and if it's crisp and cleanly moulded it will probably fit together well, If it looks blobby and ill defined, don't buy it. If some items like spinners or wing roots are thin and crushed then reinforce with Milliput or bicarb but never use tube type fillers (most tube type fillers are only good for shallow surface blemishes as they usually work by solvent evaporation). Milliput if properly mixed and placed on a storage heater or hot domestic radiator (below 70deg) will harden very quickly and not affect the kit plastic. (Here’s a tip, mix and heat the Milliput before applying it - it will harden just as fast, but use it quickly. It is advisable to wash your hands immediately the putty is mixed and again after the application is completed. The following useful tip came via one of my customers. To fill well-fitting joints such as leading edges and fuselage centre lines scratches or panel lines, use Tippex Correction fluid, Note it must be the bottle which incorporates a Red oval 'Perfect' design in the label and not the one with a Green oval. The environmentally friendly one may do wonders for typists but it's no good for modelling. Tippex bonds very well, dries quickly and sands beautifully. White metal Most recent vacuum formed kits contain detail parts cast in white metal, or suitable parts can be purchased to improve older kits. The best adhesive is cyanoacrylate. White metals usually contain a proportion of lead, (Those called Pewter should not) so don't eat when working with it and do wash your hands. Blow holes or any deficiency in the castings are best repaired with the super glue and bicarb combination. Milliput or Plastic Padding car body fillers also adhere well to white metal. If a hole in a propeller or engine is too big then bush it with a piece of plastic or metal tube. Household pins make good strong prop shafts. However the occasion often arises when there are no under carriage legs available for that old large kit. The solution is Aluminium or Brass tube. This can be bought in a variety of concentric sizes with which you can fabricate oleo legs. If you cannot find it in your local plastic kit store, then make a visit to a Model Railway shop or one specialising in flying models. You will be amazed what goodies you will find. It does puzzle me still just how parochial many 'plastic kit bashers' are! Tube can be easily cut with a fine saw or even with a heavy duty craft knife by rolling the tube back and forth with the blade as you apply pressure. Plastic card fillets or fairings can be stuck on to the metal with super glue or 5 minute Epoxy, then filed to shape. Brass has the advantage of being soldered for greater strength (exit plastic modeller-stage left). Axles can be glued to the end of the tube, or drilled right though to accept a piece of wire (a section of sewing pin) which can be sleeved up with metal or plastic tube to scale size. If you are boxing in a wheel bay, make the top from thick plastic card or if it is a kit vacuum formed item, strengthen it so that it can be drilled to take the under-carriage leg. Metal tube can be utilised for wing spars, and when threaded through a fuselage it can be bent either side to set the dihedral angle. Jigs The assembly of any type of kits can be facilitated by making jigs. A jig can be as simple as a piece of plasticine, or an elaborate affair constructed from plastic card. With only a little imagination, a few pins, cocktail sticks, plasticine, right-angled triangles cut from card and a square of card with lines drawn on to it, for a base even the most complex biplane can be set up for accurate final assembly. There is now my purpose built metal Biplane Jig only available from me. Vacuum formed models do require some hand and eye skills but remember these can only be discovered or improved upon if you are prepared to have a go, the hardest part is picking up the scalpel and making that first cut (sorry, score). If this article fires some of you to stretch your horizons or provides a solution to a particular problem then it has achieved its aim. If on the other hand you are going to sit back and wait for the Big Injection Company to produce that Scruggs Wonder plane, I have it on good authority they never will. So you might just use your time while saving up for the resin from Blob-o-Kit (who probably nicked it from the vacuum form anyway), to have a go, and find as my youngest daughter used to say the World can be your Lobster! Copyright . John W. Adams.
  17. Hello chaps It's been a long time since I did any WIP threads in any of the forums, but I guess this one fits alright @ the britmodeler. The subject is a Hawker Hunter in quarter scale. The only option we have is the well known (I guess) Academy kit with many flaws. Some bigger some not so. I hope I can correct the most obvious ones like the intakes. Although I hope I can count on your help since I do not know much about Hunters, except some basic stuff... Years ago I bought the Academy kit with some extras including the now OOP Aeroclub corrections set and I think even before I got the kits I bought this FM Detail Sets resin and etch. I remember I got it real cheap at a local scale modelling show. And since I got that many after market I thought of getting another kit. So I did buy the Italeri which is the same plastic with new decals. I don't think I'm gonna do both of 'em now, I figured as the build will be quite demanding, one step at a time, what happens later,...yeah... For the scheme I was thinking of doing an early, 50's Iraqi jet, the F.6. I haven't yet decided if it will be the one in royal AF service or the one after the coup... But OK, time to put some photos. The two different packings: Aeroclub and FM details the planned scheme: Now I did a little comparison between some of the stuff from the AM and from the box The upper is the FM MB mk.2H (somebody correct if I'm wrong) seat and the lower the much more convincing Aeroclub. The kits seat is complete rubbish as it is way to small more like a 1:72 thing. I didn't even bother taking photos. With the cockpit tubs it's a bit different. The left on is resin FM, the right one the Aeroclub. The latter one is very similar to the kits one but is corrected in a way the normal size seat can fit in.. Next thing is the wheels. The Aeroclub white metal ones and the FM resin ones. OK I know you're thinking, why is this guy doing a review, this is not a build! It's just it's so many different stuff for the same thing In had to show. I think I'll go with the resin tub, save the other one for next time. I'll be back soon with photos of the progress. Cheers
  18. Hi All, This is a first post in WIP for me. I normally don't have the time to take photos and then post updates etc. but I figured, for this particular topic I would make a huge exception :D Just some caveats before I start: I'm a horribly slow builder - if you are expecting lots of updates over the coming days it likely won't happen - more like updates will occur once or maybe twice a week (mind you, this gives you more time to look at all the really good builders on this site :) :) ) I haven't attempted a conversion "on my own" before but I figured this was a pretty basic one to begin with so please bear with me I am really looking forward to building this!! Some background: When I first got "back into" building kits in my late 30's early 40's I wanted to build a Canadian Tiger Moth. Being Canadian myself it was something that was, to me, unique - and it meant a fairly easy paint job (Trainer Yellow with some black bits ) - The only Tiger Moth option that I was aware of in 1/72, at that time, was the venerable Airfix one. I did have the ability to order a canopy from Aeroclub which I had spotted at the LHS but my first attempt at building the kit went horribly wrong. I lacked experience and, basically, patience. Now, with a bit of both under my belt, along with the impetus of Paul J's comments in the Tiger Moth Options thread, John Adams' comments in general and the wealth of information online and close at hand (I am about an hour and 10 minutes from the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum - CWHM - which has a wonderful Canadian built DH.82c in flying condition) I hope that I can tackle the conversion. I also have the Pavla kit of the DH.82c but never had the "guts" to tackle it. Having dealt with a couple Pavla kits in the past (Airspeed Oxford and Cessna Crane) I would rather "pass" on trying to tackle the kit since I believe the Airfix kit will actually be "easier" even though it involves converting the basic DH.82a configuration. I will, however, use the Pavla kit as a "guide" of sorts (look at all those quotation marks in this paragraph!! ) for items such as the instrument panels etc. The Kit, Some Additions And Some Changes: I'm not going to go into sprue shots of the kit but I will point out where I feel there are changes to be made in order to get the DH.82a to become the DH.82c. Additions to the basic kit (for my model) will be the following: Aeroclub Gipsy Major Engine - thanks to John Adams for sending me one of these (and it includes the correct prop as well!) Some home made brass items (cowling, trim tabs, maybe the fairings for the fuselage cables) New Interplane struts - made from thin wall brass tube Aeroclub Canopy - again, thanks to John! Different Decals (again some supplied by and thanks to John Adams, others from the existing Pavla kit) Exhaust Shroud As per the comments in the recent Tiger Moth threads in the Interwar forum and along with the multitude of images of the CWHM DH.82c online there are things that need to be corrected in the Airfix kit in order to make it Canuckable Changes to the basic kit include: removing the baggage compartment Moving the landing gear forward Using the tailwheel (included in the kit!!) Cutting out the cockpit doors Not using the fuselage strakes The Reference Aircraft http://www.warplane.com/vintage-aircraft-collection/aircraft-history.aspx?aircraftId=14 Built in 1942 at Downsview (Toronto) Ontario this particular Tiger Moth did go through some restoration - I still need to find out if it's built back to the spec as though it had come off the production line at De Havilland or if there were changes made to the aircraft during restoration. Photos coming soon!! Cheers, Dave
  19. As promised in my WIP, here are some pictures of the completed Gnat F.1 It was quite an old model and I did struggle a bit at times with the canopy and the yellowing decals, however I think it's turned out quite nicely. I do hope that I have done a good enough job on it to do this great old kit justice. Thanks for looking.
  20. Recently I took an old Aeroclub Demon off the shelf where several still reside. Building it was such fun I thought I would do another. When I found the Bomber Command GB criteria had been revised to include pre-war Bomber Command subjects, I decided to make one of my remaining Aeroclub Demons into a Hind, using some markings from an old ModelDecal Hart Family sheet. There is not a great deal which needs doing to make a Hind out of a Demon: one gun channel needs filling, windows have to be let into the sides, new exhausts need to be contrived, some indication for a bomb-aiming hatch provided, a suitable tail-wheel scrounged, and a few other little bits and bumps tended to. These blend nicely into the enjoyable business of adding various details and minor fixes to the kit, most particularly making some representation of the intricate thing which was the standard Hawker tail assembly with its off-set fin and variable incidence tail-plane. Though rated as a light bomber, the Hind was never seriously intended as a combat aircraft. The small improvements it offered over the Hart, ranging from slightly livelier climb and better performance at altitude to more efficient crew stations, did not change the obsolescence of the design, viewed as a service light bomber in 1936. While a few Hinds sent to the Middle East bombed and strafed on 'Air Control' operations in Palestine, the real and very valuable service of the Hind was as a species of operational trainer in the early days of the RAF expansion program. Expansion meant not just more airplanes, or even more aircrew. It meant more ground crew for maintenance and repair, for supply, more administrative personnel and staff, and it meant welding all these into functioning units which could field operational aircraft to carry out assigned duties to plan. Units were formed on Hinds, learned the trade and became practiced squadrons in every way on Hinds, and then, when more modern aircraft became available, the Hinds were passed on to more newly-formed units and the process repeated. From this emerged a great proportion of the squadrons which carried out the air offensive over Germany during WWII. In a very real sense, the Hind is the little acorn from which the great oak of Bomber Command grew. This model represents a Hind of 103 Squadron's C Flight, circa 1937. An expansion unit, 103 was activated in August, 1936 with Hinds which it flew till July 1938 when these were replaced by Battles. After service in France in 1940, the unit received in succession the Wellington, the Halifax, and the Lancaster. These old kits have points to recommend them still today even in compare with newer limited-run kits from AZ Models and and A-Model. Scratch-building the exhausts was the trickiest bit of the work needed. Personally I hope Airfix does a re-tooled Hart --- messing up their old mould for this type was one of their worst mistakes... Here is a link to the build thread in the Bomber Command GB forum: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234970423-hawker-hind-conversion-from-vintage-aeroclub-demon-172-done/
  21. A little background: The Gran Chaco War (or sometimes just "Chaco War") was a war fought between Bolivia and Paraguay over a region of scrubland, swamp, and semi-desert called the Gran Chaco. The land was of little use or interest until oil was discovered near it, in the foothills of the Andes. This led Bolivia to believe that oil was also in the Gran Chaco and they asserted their claim to this land, which had belonged to the department of Bolivia when most of South America was owned by Spain. The region had, however, long been inhabited and used by the Paraguayans, who had de facto, if not actual de jure control of the land. To make a long story short, the Paraguayans had better leaders, and were used to the hot climate and landscape of the Gran Chaco, and they won a decisive victory over the superior in numbers Bolivians. In a treaty signed in 1938 (fighting had ceased in 1935), most of the Gran Chaco was legally assigned to Paraguay. So much for my history lesson; now onto my little kit. This kit is the old Aeroclub kit which represents a Fiat Cr.20, of which Paraguay obtained a few (five, I believe) in the 1930's from the Italians, who also provided other aircraft and military assistance at this time. The kit itself is moulded in Aeroclub's typical brownish plastic, with a considerable amount of white metal parts. Best of all, this kit actually has the Paraguayan decals and they look quite usable (we shall see!). The white metal parts need some cleaning up, but I've already cleaned up the plastic parts. Below are some photographs: Enjoy the build (I hope I do!). Best Regards, Jason
  22. I don't suppose many of these get built nowadays, but there was a time when the various Aeroclub kits were the best available if you wanted to do any member of the Hawker Hart lineage. Recently John from Aeroclub was kind enough to hunt up a couple of his old decal sheets for me, which was a tremendous help in a scratch-build project, and so I thought I would dig out of store and build one of the old Aeroclub kits I have, by way of a small tribute to all he has contributed to our hobby. I got a good many of these Demon kits years ago secondhand from a gentleman in Australia, shortly after taking up the hobby again. One I converted to a Nisr and one to a Hardy, and one I did up as a 'Malta Demon' in a scheme I now know to have been wildly inaccurate. I still have two, more or less, un-built, as well as an Audax and an Osprey. Even today, stacked up against the newer limited-run offerings from A-Model and AZ Models, they still have points to recommend them. I approached this build in an 'out of the bag' spirit, and since the instructions include direction to 'detail to choice' (as well as to make some of the struts), I think a bit of fiddling and some little extras stays well within that. The white metal parts supplied include a fair start towards a detailed cockpit, but I decided to recruit a couple of likely lads in Sidcots to save time and keep me concentrating on the over-all finish. I used the kit decals, which went down without any fuss at all. The subject of the Aeroclub kit, K2905 of 41 Sqdn., flown by C Flight leader, was chosen by the Corgi people as one of their 1/72 die-cast subjects not long ago. The aluminum dope finish is craft acrylic silver mixed with some white and cut with Future, brushed on over white primer. The metal panels of the nose are done with aluminum foil, boiled a while with egg-shells to take off the shine and darken it a bit, with MicroScale foil adhesive applied. Rigging is done with EZ-Line elastic for the long lines, and 0.004" brass wire for the short lengths. Wife tried a new technique in these pictures. Not long ago a picture was accidentally taken without the flash of another model, and in processing she removed the shadow and did a couple of other tweaks, and we both liked the result. So these are done without flash in indoor sunlight, and treated as she did the earlier picture.
  23. My second vacform, but much tougher to finish than the first, mainly due to a series of stupid mistakes when painting it. Aeroclub kit Modified Quickboost seats Berna decals 3d printed wheels and nose undercarriage In progress thread is here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234942403-sea-venom-sea-hawk-wyvern-and-skyraider/
  24. This is the tiny little 1:144 Dragon Rapide from Aeroclub in AA colours. It's a little jewel of a kit, injection moulded with etched details like struts and propellers. Constuction was fairly simple - it's the colour scheme that complicates things! I assembled all the plastic parts. including both wings but not the struts, then painted it yellow. A lot of masking later, it was sprayed black to give the basic scheme. Note that this version does not have the extra cabin windows on both sides behind the wing, you'll need to remove them from the decal sheet. I toned my windows down a touch with paynes grey oil paint thinned down, to darken the windows a little. Rigging is stretched sprue. Not very big! 35 years between first flights. You can still fly on one of these aircraft, but not the other! Cheers John
  25. This is the superb but tiny Dragon Rapide kit by Aeroclub. I have been trying to get it finished for a friends birthday so it will be winging its way over the weekend. The aerial mast is over scale but I could not get it any thinner without it bending when tensioning the wire, any suggestions on how to achieve this in 1/144th scale would be very welcome. Any errors are due to this modeller being ham-fisted when putting the kit together. Now to get back to my STGB build. Thanks for looking
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