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Found 213 results

  1. Hello ! I present to your attention the result of the test-build of the new model from MiniArt - the early T-55 Enjoy watching ! This model and other new items MiniArt will be available next week at Telford
  2. Model T Ambulance. 1:35

    Model T Ambulance ICM 1:35 One of the most numerous and famous cars in the world’s history was the Model T, produced by the Ford Motor Company. These cars were widely used on all fronts during WWI. This kit is a re-release of the ambulance version, but this time accompanied by a set of figures. The Model The model arrives in the usual sturdy box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are two sprues of light grey styrene, one sprue of brown, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue plus a small decal sheet. All the parts are really well moulded, with no sign of flash or other imperfections. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the exhaust are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if you’re not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, fan belt, dynamo, exhaust manifold, cooling fan, cooling pipes, and other sundry items. The radiator is moulded together with the front axle and just needs the radiator grille glued to it to complete the assembly. The radiator/axle is then glued to the front of the floor pan/chassis, which is much longer than the other versions. The two part fuel tank is then assembled and fitted to the chassis, along with the engine assembly. The rear axle, drive shaft and differential are built up from only three parts and fitted to the underside of the chassis along with the two piece exhaust/silencer unit. The front and rear axle support frames are then added, as is the steering rack, and two chassis end plates. The front mudguards and running boards are attached, followed by the four wheels, each moulded as single parts are glued to the axles and the instructions move to the body work. The truck bed is basically a box, made up from the two sides, each with a three part bench structure, and the front bulkhead. The rear bulkhead is made up from upper and lower segments. The upper section has two clear windows fitted, while the lower section has three bumper sections before being glued into position. There is a seven piece stretcher that is then placed in the interior. The compartment is then glued to the chassis. The drivers compartment is then assembled from the floor, three pedals, handbrake and seat cushion. The front bulkhead, with the windscreen frame moulded integrally is fitted with the windscreen and two part battery. This assembly is then glued to the drivers assembly, which in turn glued to the chassis and fitted with the steering column and steering wheel. Each of the two part bonnet sections are fitted with grab handles, then glued together, before being fitted to the engine bay. If you’re very careful, the modeller could cut the lower section of one side of the bonnet and fold it up along the hinge line to show off the engine. Two side panels are glued to the sides, just aft of the doors, followed by two storage boxes and ledges. The drivers cab roof frame is fitted along with the roof which covers the ambulance section and the drivers section. The rolled up rear panel is fitted above the rear entrance, while there is a two part container fitted to the left hand ledge, and a storage box on the right hand ledge with the spare wheel. The three, three piece lamps are assembled and glued in place along with the two, two piece, headlights and two shovels on the left hand rear of the ledge. This particular kit is enhanced with the addition of four figures, one walking wounded, one on a stretcher, a nurse and a corpsman. Each figure is made up from separate torso, legs, arms, head, helmet, a two piece skirt for the nurse as well as a head dress. The corpsman also has a pouch and is holding a notepad. There is also another stretcher, this one slightly simpler and made from five parts. Decals The small decal sheet contains identification numbers and Red Cross markings for two vehicles. The US Army vehicle is in olive green overall with a khaki roof, while the French Army machine is in intermediate blue overall with a khaki roof. Model T Ambulance 625 SSU A.E.F, France 1918 Model T Ambulance 36 SS, French Army, France, 1918 Conclusion This is a lovely kit and an interesting vehicle, especially with what looks like a ridiculous overhang of the stretcher compartment from the rear wheels. It’s nice to have the options of vehicle from two different countries too. The inclusion of the figures means that the modeller has an almost ready made vignette or diorama in one box. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Marder III Ausf M Late HobbyBoss 1:35 History The Marder III was produced in two variants – Ausf H and Ausf M. They were based on the Panzerkampfwagen 38(t) Ausf H and Ausf M light tank chassis, respectively. They were designated as 7.5cm PaK40/3 auf PzKpfw 38(t) Ausf H, and Panzerjäger 38(t) mit 7.5cm PaK40/3 Ausf M. Both were armed with the 75mm PaK 40/3 L/46 anti-tank gun and operated by four-man crews. The Ausf H (Heckmotor-rear engine) had the fighting compartment in a central forward location, while the fighting compartment of the Ausf M (Mitte-mid engine) was at the rear. The fighting compartment of the Ausf H was open at the top and rear, while that of Ausf M was open only at the top. The Ausf H carried 38 rounds of ammunition, while Ausf M had only 27 rounds. The main armament could be traversed 30 degrees to the left and right in the Ausf H and 21 degrees to the left and right in the Ausf M. Both vehicles also had additional armament – the Ausf H had a 7.92mm MG 37(t) mounted in the front hull and the Ausf M carried a 7.92mm MG 34 or MG 42 inside the fighting compartment. Armour protection for the Ausf H ranged from 8 to 50mm, while armour for the Ausf M ranged from 8 to 20mm. Ausf M was the final variant of the Marder series and was a significant improvement over previous models, with its lower silhouette, sloped armour and much more functional fighting compartment. From November 1942 to April 1943, BMM made 243 Ausf H models, and an additional 175 vehicles were converted in 1943. From April 1943 to May 1944, BMM produced 975 Ausf M models. Ausf M was modified during production, and early and late models can be identified by their unique features. The Ausf H was first issued to Panzerjäger Abteilungen in late 1942. They also served with Waffen SS (e.g. Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler in Russia, 1942) and Luftwaffe (e.g. Herman Göring Division in Tunisia and Italy, 1943) units. In April 1944, 18 Ausf H were also exported to Slovakia. Ausf M was first issued to Panzerjäger Abteilungen in May 1943. It fought on all fronts, and there were still 350 in service as of February 1st 1945. The Marder III Ausf H and Ausf M were also used to produce self-propelled guns armed with 150mm sIG heavy infantry guns and designated as Grille/Bison Ausf H and Ausf M. There was also a proposed project to mount a Panzerjäger 38(t) Ausf M with a 75mm PaK L/60 anti-tank gun, but it was never produced. In 1945, a number of Marder III Ausf H and Ausf M models ended up in use by the Czechoslovak Army as ST-II (Stihac Tanku II). The Model Depicting a Marder III Ausf M - Late, this is yet another reboxing of an old Tristar kit, and like the others reviewed here it has exactly the same layout box top as the original, with just the Hobbyboss title replacing the old Tristar label. The colourful boxart shows an artists impression of the vehicle pared up in a street. Inside there are seven sprues and one separate part in sandy yellow styrene, three of dark grey styrene, a very small sheet of etched brass, a metal barrel and a mid-sized decal sheet. Hobbyboss are proving to be pretty consistent with their moulding, in that the parts are all beautifully moulded, with no signs of flash or other imperfections other than a fair few moulding pips which will add to the cleaning up of parts. From what I can gather, the Tristar kit was pretty accurate and rated as a kit, and since Hobbyboss haven’t done anything to the sprues it can be said of this kit as well. Construction begins with the lower hull being fitted with two pairs of torsion beams each side, along with a single two piece return roller per side. The spring suspension units are then added, as are the bump stops and two piece rear bulkhead to which the separate gun cradle can be attached if not in use. The axles are then glued to the torsion beams and fitted with end caps, while the drive covers are fitted to the front of the hull and the idler axles fitted to the rear. Each road wheel is fitted with the separate outer rim before being attached to the axles, each wheel is then fitted with an inner and outer central hub. The two piece drive sprockets and two piece idler wheels are then attached to their respective axles, and the front bulkhead of the fighting compartment is fitted inside the hull, followed by the compartment decking. The front deck and glacis plate are moulded as a single unit, to which the drivers five piece hatch, complete with vision ports is glued into position. The gun cradle brackets are also attached, along with a seat in the fighting compartment. The assembly is then glued to the lower hull. The tracks are up next, with each side requiring 95 individual links. Since there doesn’t appear to be any pins moulded onto the links, you will have to glue them together, then try and get the sag over the single return roller looking right, or go and buy a metal set of tracks, (my personal preference). The two front sections of the track guards are then fitted with the various storage boxes and pioneer tools, including the ubiquitous jack, spade and pick axe, before being attached to the hull. The rear sections are then fitted with seats, fire extinguisher, shell rack and a back rest, as these are going to be within the shield of the fighting compartment. A long length of track, (12 links), is then fitted to the glacis plate and held down by a long bracket. Two, three piece shell racks are then assembled and fitted out with the separate shells before beign glued into place, as is the curved lower mantle section. The main gun slide is made up from eight parts, whilst the gun itself is made up from eight parts. Now the modeller has an option with the barrel, either the single piece styrene barrel, which is very nice, or the metal barrel provided. They are as good as each other and the spare may come in handy for another build. The guns cradle is assembled using eleven parts and once completed is fitted with the slide and gun assemblies. The gun shield is then fitted out with various components before also being glued to the cradle. The gun assembly is then attached to the hull via the large pin moulded to the cradle and the side shields, fitted with the radio set and exhaust pipe, glued into place around the fighting compartment. The three piece exhaust system is then glued to the rear bulkhead. The front sections of the shield are glued into place, as are the rear aerial mounts, shield cross bar, two track guard supports right forward, gun cleaning rods, three piece shrouded headlight, and another length of track links on the lower glacis plate, completing the build. Decals The decal sheet contains markings for numerous vehicles, seeing as most of the sheet is made up of individual numbers in two different colours, along with four German crosses. They are well printed, in register and nicely opaque, also being fairly glossy with very little noticeable carrier. The only differences in the vehicles is the paint scheme, there being a choice of either panzer grey overall, or three coloured camouflage of sand, red brown and green. Conclusion From the box this looks like a lovely kit, there’s nothing to taxing for most modellers, although the track links might get a bit tiresome to get looking right. The rest of the kit si well detailed, well moulded and should be a joy to put together. Review sample courtesy of
  4. M35 Mittlere Panzerwagen Hobbyboss 1:35 History In 1934, the Austrian Army (Bundesheer) needed a new heavy armored car for police duties, under the designation “M35 Mittlere Panzerwagen”. Steyr had already developed a vehicle tailored for urban operations, with sloped armor and symmetric body helping the vehicle to maneuver quickly and retreat without having to turn around. The prototype was successfully tested and accepted into service in 1935. Production spanned until 1937 with 27 vehicles being given to the army and the police. All were captured by the Germans and pressed into service after the Anschluss. In “ADGZ”, AD stands for “Austro-Daimler”, the official designation was “M35 Mittlere Panzerwagen”. The ADGZ was a massive, twelve-wheeled armored car, the two external axles with their independent leaf spring suspension, and the central twin axle, with double wheels (eight in all), mated on a common suspension. It was intended for maneuvering off-road, but also for urban usage. The sloped armored body, uniformly 6 mm (0.23 in) thick (except the top and bottom) was welded and almost entirely symmetrical, with the engine at the rear, and two drivers whom could operate the vehicle from each side, switching almost immediately thanks to the dual transmission. There was a central circular turret with a double hatch on top, which could be fully opened to dominate the crowd, housing a 20 mm (0.79 in) KwK 35 L/45 autocannon. Four half-doors punctuated the sides, with the upper and lower parts opening independently. The drivers each had a small sight opening on their side, with an armored hatch and on the other side a ball mount, from which they could operate a single MG 34 machine-gun. So each end presented a driver and machine-gunner. Four headlights were also fitted, two on each end of the vehicle, mounted on the body-integrated mudguards. 27 (28 from other sources) Steyr ADGZs were delivered and 12 used by the Austrian Army in March 1938 in the fast division; 14 were part of the Gendarmerie. The prototype was the 27th. After the Anschluss in 1938, all these vehicles were distributed among SS units and military police. In 1939, a detachment took part in the operations in Danzig, Poland, at the opening of the war. Three SS Heimwehr Danzig armored cars were engaged and one lost in action while taking the post office. In 1941, 25 additional vehicles were ordered by the SS and used in various units in the Balkans, for police operation and fighting partisans (like the “Prinz Eugen” division). An unconfirmed source stated that tests were performed with Russian T-26 turrets after capturing many in 1941. The Model Having released several Russian heavy armoured cars Hobbyboss have now released a second version of the M35 German heavies. The kit comes in a top opening box with an artistic impression of the vehicle driving along a dirt track. Inside there are five sprues and two separate parts in beige styrene, one small sprue of clear styrene, one smallish sheet of etched brass, twelve rubber/vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. As usual for a Hobbyboss kit the parts moulding is really well done, with some nicely reproduced surface details, no sign of flash or other imperfections and not too many moulding pips making for an easy clean up job. This will turn into quite a large model, well, for an armoured car, but there aren’t too many parts, so not as complicated as their Russian vehicles. Construction begins with drilling some holes out in the lower hull, followed by the centrally mounted drive shaft and gearbox cover, plus the front and rear axle mounts, each of three parts, and their single piece covers. The five piece front and rear axles are then attached followed by their respective steering gear and linkages. The centrally mounted pairs of axles are contained within a four piece suspension unit, one for each side. With these fitted the four triangular panels, two each side are glued into place, as are the front and rear glacis plates, onto which two towing eyes are attached. The two protective axle grounding plates are made of PE and need to be bent to shape before being glued in place, followed by four square boxes, one in each corner of the lower hull. The front and rear pairs of wheels are each made from the main wheel, rear rim, poly cap and rubber tyre, while the centre four are made from two wheels, two rims, poly caps and a large central hub and the rubber tyres. With the wheels assembled they can now be fitted to their respective axles. Attention then turns to the upper hull and the fitting of four triangular hatches on the sides, each with separate handles; three pistol ports drivers and co-drivers vision ports. The prominent louvre panels on the front upper hull can be posed open or closed. Unfortunately, since there is no interior to this kit, having the panels open will mean you can see straight into the hull, so will have to be closed, yet, when operational, these panels look like they were mainly open. A bit of a quandary for sure. The rear engine deck is made up from three parts and glued into place, as is the three piece exhaust and three, five piece jerry cans fitted into a two piece storage tray. The pioneer tools are then attached; these include and pick axe, shovel, and five piece jack. There is an array of three headlights on a support bracket that is fitted to the centre of the upper hull, between the drivers and machine gunners position. Two MG34 machine guns are assembled from three parts and slide into their respective ball sockets from the inside. Two, two piece standard headlights are fitted front and rear along with the single shrouded lights. The standard lights can be fitted with covers with a slot in them if required. The upper and lower hulls are then joined together. Another MG34 and a 20mm cannon are fitted with their two piece ball mounts before being fitted to the respective external mounts within the turret. The three piece roof and turret ring are glued on afterward. The completed turret is then attached to the hull opening completing the build. Decals The small decal sheet is sparse to say the least. What there are, are nicely printed and if previous experience has taught me, quite thin. There are just a selection of German crosses, one of which is split for fitting to the louvre panels and there is only one scheme, Panzer Grey, no vehicle identification markings are included. Conclusion There is something about large armoured cars from any country. They have an enigmatic air about them, as well as being slightly bonkers, as most of the early war armoured cars seem to be. It’s nice to see these vehicles released though as they will add something a bit different to a modellers collection. Review sample courtesy of
  5. Model T Utility. 1:35

    Model T Utility ICM 1:35 One of the most numerous and famous cars in the world’s history was the Model T, produced by the Ford Motor Company. These cars were widely used on all fronts during WWI. This version is of a utility vehicle in the Australian service. The Model The model arrives in the usual sturdy box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are two sprues of light grey styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. As with the previously released Model T kits from ICM, the parts are really well moulded, with no sign of flash or other imperfections. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the exhaust are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if you’re not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, fan belt, dynamo, exhaust manifold, cooling fan, cooling pipes, and other sundry items. The radiator is moulded together with the front axle and just needs the radiator grille glued to it to complete the assembly. The radiator/axle is then glued to the front of the floor pan/chassis along with four eyebolts/engine mounting bolts. The two part fuel tank is then assembled and fitted to the chassis, along with the engine assembly. The rear axle, drive shaft and differential are built up from only three parts and fitted to the underside of the chassis along with the two piece exhaust/silencer unit. The front and rear axle support frames are then added, as is the steering rack. The four wheels, moulded as single parts are glued to the axles and the instructions move to the body work. The truck bed is made up of the bed, sides, front and rear sections, in addition to the outer curved panels, bench seat and rolled up canvas cover. The two part battery is fitted to the driving compartment bulkhead, along with the coaming, doors and three foot pedals. The gear stick and steering column are then fitted to the chassis as is the truck bed assembly. This assembly is then fitted into position between the truck bed and engine compartment. Each of the two part bonnet sections are fitted with grab handles, then glued together, before being fitted to the engine bay. If you’re very careful, the modeller could cut the lower section of one side of the bonnet and fold it up along the hinge line to show off the engine. The semi open cab, consists of the rear three piece bulkhead, roof and two side sections, which only cover the area of the seat, but not the doors. The windscreen is made up from upper and lower sections, each of two parts and can be posed folded or extended. Each of the two styles of headlights and single tail light are assembled and fitted, along with the spare tyre, a three piece storage box and three piece water container. Decals The small decal sheet contains identification numbers and markings for two vehicles. The two vehicles are both painted in the overall sand scheme with khaki for the canvas “cab”. Model T Utility 1917, Palestine 1918 Model T Utility 1917, Dead Sea Region, Palestine 1918 Conclusion This is another great addition to the Model T series that ICM have been releasing. As with the LCP version, it isn’t a difficult kit to make, but will look great once painted and weathered either with a LCP in a diorama or on its own. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Soviet T-34-76 with Tank Riders ICM 1:35 History The T-34 was and remains a legend. It is not only the most produced tank of the WWII-era, with 84,000 built (compared to the 48,966 Shermans of all versions) but also one of the longest-serving tanks ever built. Many are still stored in depots in Asia and Africa, and some served actively during the 90’s (such as during the 1991-99 Yugoslavian war). They formed the backbone of countless armoured forces around the globe from the fifties to the eighties. The basic design was drawn for the first time in 1938 with the A-32, in turn partially derived from the BT-7M, a late evolution of the US-born Christie tank. The first version of the T-34/76 came as a nasty surprise for the overconfident German troops in the fall of 1941, when it was first committed en masse. Not only were they able to cope with the mud and snow with their large tracks, but they came with a perfect combination of thick and highly sloped armour, efficient gun, good speed, autonomy and, above all, extreme sturdiness, reliability, ease of manufacturing and maintenance. While the T-34 did have a number of deficiencies, the T-34’s influence on the future designs and the concept of the main battle tank is unquestionable. The Model The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the tank and riders on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are five sprues and two hull parts of green styrene and, four lengths of tracks, there is also a sprue of light brown styrene, for the tank riders, and a smallish decal sheet. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching some items like are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build begins with the fitting of the engine cover onto the rear decking, and the bow machine gun, armoured tear drop, mantle and ball. The two intake covers are then assembled and also fitted to the rear deck. The two piece bow mounted machine gun is then assembled and slide into the ball of the mounting, being glued such that it is still moveable, whilst there are four plates that are fitted to the underside of the rear decking. The drivers hatch is made up form four parts before being glued into position. Back aft, the rear bulkhead is attached, followed by the radiator cover. Inside the lower hull section the eight suspension boxes are fitted, four per side as are the two driver’s control sticks, whilst the rear mudguards are fitted to the rear. On the outside the driver gearbox covers are fitted, as are the five axles on their torsion beam suspension arms and the idler axles. The drivers are machine gunners seats, each made from six parts are glued in their appropriate positions and the two hull halves joined together. Each of the idler wheels, drive sprockets and road wheels are made from two parts before being fitted to their respective axles. The four towing hooks are then attached, two at the front and two aft. The upper hull is then fitted out with grab handles, stowage beams and a couple of smaller hooks. Each of the two halves of rubber track lengths are joined together and slide of the wheels. While there isn’t really any interior, ICM have allowed for the fact that some modellers like to have the hatches open, to that effect there is some semblance of interior parts. The main gun breech is made up form twelve parts, and although relatively simple, does look quite effective. On the outside of the turret the mantlet and fixed section of the mantlet cover are fitted, the breech assembly is then glued to the mantlet from the inside and the lower turret, including the turret ring is glued into place. The moving section of the mantlet cover is then attached, along with the machine gun muzzle. The three piece mantlet extension and two piece main gun is then fitted, along with the five piece cupola, gunners hatch, grab handles, ventilator dome, viewing block and top armour plate for the mantlet. There are more stowage bars, periscope sights, lifting eyes and viewing blocks fitted to the turret before the whole assembly is fitted to the upper hull. Final assembly includes the four, four piece fuel drums, each with two cradles, spare track links, stowage boxes and aerial base. There is a four piece folded tarpaulin, (in place of one of the fuel drums), another stowage box, two more track links headlight, horn, two towing cables and a large saw attached before the model can be declares complete. Normally this is where the build stops, but with this kit you also get four tank riders, as they were used to protect the tanks, particularly with the Germans introducing the Panzerfaust and also ease their journey from one place to the other. This set of four figures depicts the riders as alert and ready for danger, hunkering down slightly with their eyes front (at least in the boxtop shot), and weapons at the ready. They are dressed in the familiar quilted uniform seem during this period, with the typical fur hat with ear-flaps tied over the top and a depiction of the red star on the front. Three are armed with the PPSh-41, while the remainder has the smaller PPS with curved magazine, which was a cheap alternative to the more expensive and robust PPSh, and typically used in vehicles as a personal defence weapon. Each soldier is provided with a crude day sack, equipment and magazine pouches and a drinking bottle, but none carry a sidearm in case of weapons malfunction. The figures are all broken down as torso, two separate legs and arms, separate heads and hats, and all the pouches. Even the PPSh-41s have separate drum magazines for ease of moulding. Sculpting on the figures is excellent, with different faces on each head, and subtle differences between the figures, such as medals adorning the chests of three of the figures. Construction is so simple that it is ignored, relying on the painting guide having all the information you need such as part numbers, and that a picture speaks a thousand words. Colours are called out in red letters in boxes, which corresponds to a table on the flip side, giving names for the colours as well as Revell and Tamiya paint codes. Decals The decal sheet provides six options for tanks that each served in 1944. All of the tanks are in all over green, two with slogans on the turret, the rest with just numbers and/or badges. The choices are:- A T-34, 24th Tank Regiment, 46th Mechanised Brigade, Byelrussia. July 1944 A T-34 18th Guards Tank Brigade, 3rd Guards Tank Corps, Byelrussia, July 1944 A T-34 Sevastepol, May 1944 A T-34 of an undesignated unit, from the Summer of 1944. A T-34, 4th Guards Mechanized Corps, Romania, August 1944 A T-34, 10th Guards Ural Tank Corps, Ukraine, Summer 1944. Conclusion This is another nice kit from ICM. Although not the most complicated of tank kits it does look the part is would make a nice, relaxing weekend build. The addition of the tank riders is a very nice touch, and they don’t necessarily have to be used with this kit, so they have more potential. Just a shame that the tracks let the kit down, either go full rubber band or even link and length styrene, but the method chosen for these is definitely a step backward. Review sample courtesy of
  7. WW1 Austro-Hungarian Machine Gun Team ICM 1:35 ICM have a great selection of figures in their catalogue, the latest set is of is an Austro-Hungarian machine gun team, consisting of two men and a heavy machine gun. The two men are in specific poses, one firing the machine gun, the other holding the ammunition belt. The parts come on two sprues of sandy brown styrene, (much like the favoured Caramac candy bar). All the parts are nicely moulded and once you have built the figures and one of two heavy machine guns you will have an awful lot of spares for use in other dioramas. Each figure is made from multiple parts, with separate torso, legs, arms and head, for which each figure has a cap. To the assembled body, the modeller can add all manner of equipment, such as back packs, satchel, holsters and another small pack. The gunner is posed, sitting on a sack with his legs out and the belt man is in a kneeling position. The modeller has a choice of two heavy machine guns, the Skoda manufactured Maschinengewehr (Schwarzlose) M. 7 of 1908 or the later 1912 version. Each gun is moulded with the rear tripod leg, to the leg several fitting are attached, including the elevation mechanism, while the firing handle and shoulder rest is fitted to the breech section of the gun. The front legs are moulded separately and once joined together and fitted with a locking handle they are glued to the head of the tripod. The four piece splinter shield is then assembled and fitted over the cooling jacket of the barrel and attached to the tripod head. The cooling jacket end piece is then attached and the gun finished off with the attachment of the coned flash hider. The ammunition box comes in three pieces, into which the ammunition belt is inserted, with the other end attached to the breech of the gun. The spares left over include rifles and carbines, spades, entrenching tools, helmets, ammunition pouches, bayonets and daggers, holsters, pistols, hand grenades of three different types, pick axes and several mess tines and water bottles. Conclusion The parts are nicely moulded, but there do appear to be some seams that will need removing but at least there are no moulding pips, so cleaning up the parts will be fairly easy. Assembly is pretty straight forward and they will look great in a in a vignette or in a larger diorama. The biggest headache will be painting them to look realistic. Review sample courtesy of
  8. T-60 Soviet Light Tank 1:35 MiniArt The T-60 was the result of the ongoing development of light tanks that had started well before WWII. This particular tank started development in 1938 as an attempt to replace the T-26, T-40, the failed T-46 project and the T-50. Whilst such a large number were produced, it was hated by all who had to deal with it – all except the Germans, who found it to be a substandard and underwhelming opponent, and a rather nice ammunition carrier or gun towing tractor, once captured. As a result of its poor armour, substandard armament and sluggish performance, it was more dangerous to its crews than anybody else, earning it the title Bratskaya Mogila Na Dovoikh, literally: “a brother’s grave for two.” The basic design was completed in a mere fifteen days, and Astrov, seconded by Lieutenant Colonel V.P. Okunev, wrote to Stalin contrasting the advantages of the mass-producible T-60 with the more complicated T-50, which had already received the go-ahead. An inspection from a senior minister resulted in two decisions: firstly, the 12.7 mm (0.5 in) machine gun was to be replaced with a 20 mm (0.79 in) ShVAK, although it was still inadequate against the Panzer IIIs and IVs that the T-60 would almost certainly engage whilst there was a shortage of T-34s. Secondly, the Main Defence Committee (GKO), headed by Stalin, ordered 10,000 T-60s to be produced immediately. Some sources have claimed that Stalin’s interest in the vehicle is because he attended the vehicle’s final trials in person. The displacement of the Soviet industry in 1941 disrupted production and further refinement of the T-60. In autumn, Zavod Nr 37’s work on the T-60 was transferred to Zavod Nr 38 at Kirov and GAZ in Gorki. Shortly after, industrial evacuations continued, and GAZ was the sole producer of the T-60. In 1942, the T-60’s frontal armour was increased to 35 mm (1.37 in), which was still inadequate and made the tank more sluggish. The GAZ-203 engine gave the T-60 theoretical speeds of 44 km/h (27 mph) on road and 22 km/h (14 mph) off-road, but this was always difficult to achieve as a result of horrifically bad mud and snow. Replacing the spoked road wheels on the 1941 model with all-metal disc wheels, especially as a result of rubber shortages, did not help alleviate this problem either. The development of removable track extensions also did little to help mobility. Finally, any attempt to increase the calibre of the gun proved difficult. There were attempts to replace the main gun with a 37 mm (1.45 in) ZiS-19 or a 45 mm (1.77 in) ZiS-19BM, but proved unsuccessful as a result of the small turret. By the time a redesigned turret with the ZiS-19BM had passed trials, the T-60 as a whole was cancelled with the introduction of the T-70 in late 1942, although 55 T-60s were produced in 1943. The Model The kit comes in the fairly standard, yet sturdy and colourful top opening box MiniArt use, with an artists impression of the vehicle on the front. Inside there are thirty three sprues of varying sizes, mostly small, in a medium to dark grey styrene, along with one sprue of clear styrene, two small sheets of etched brass and a smallish decal sheet. As with most MiniArt kits there is a huge amount of detail contained on the sprues and in this one there are around 482 parts, including the etched brass. The styrene used is much nicer than the older kits from MiniArt, being much softer and less brittle. If you read my article on the company HERE you will understand why this improvement came about. The mouldings are superb with no imperfections and very few moulding pips. Some of the smaller parts, and there are a lot of them, do have a fair number of sprue gates, but fortunately they are relatively small and shouldn’t cause too many problems. The sheer number of parts is explained by the fact that this kit is equipped with a full, and I mean full interior, which for a model/vehicle this size will mean you will need a magnifying glass/Optivisor when building. The build starts with the lower hull floor, to which the drivers position is attached, complete with detailed gearbox, levers and brake drums. Then there is the comprehensively detailed engine, which is a model in itself, and has more parts than some whole kits, around 22 in total. The two batteries and battery tray are then added to the left hand side of the hull adjacent to the drivers position, followed by the right side panel which is fitted with a fire extinguisher and four support brackets. The rear bulkhead is fitted out with several parts on the outside, before being attached to the lower hull, as is the lower glacis plate. The engine assembly is then glued into position and connected to the gearbox via a couple of drive shafts. The interior is slowly built up with bulkheads, ammunition racks with spare ammunition drums and boxes and another fire extinguisher. The left hull panel is then attached, along with the outer drive covers, idler axles, internal longitudinal bulkhead and several pipes. The upper hull plate is fitted with several panels before being glued into place. The drivers hatch is made up from five parts, while the drivers vision block is made up from six parts. Both assemblies are then glued to the driver position, and can be posed either open of closed. Depending on which colour scheme the modeller has chosen there are two options for the style of headlights to be used. The suspension arms are then glued to the hull, followed by the road wheels, return rollers, drive sprockets and idler wheels. The engine cover is next made up of three plastic and two etched grille pieces. This is then glued into position on the top deck, along with the drivers access and viewing plate. The tracks are each built up from eighty five individual links, which, unfortunately are not click able, but have to be glued, making it a little more awkward to get the sag and fitted around the idlers/drive sprockets. But with plenty of patience and care they can be made to look the business. The track guards are fitted with many PE brackets, as well as storage boxes, pioneer tools and a nicely detailed jack. These are then fitted to the hull and the build moves on to the turret. There is a large PE grille fitted to the rear engine deck along with a PE surround. There are two covers that go over this if winterising the vehicle, each plate is fixed with four to six PE wing nuts. While the turret is very small there is still plenty of detail packed into it. The turret ring is fitted with commander’s seat, ready use ammunition locker, plus traversing and elevation gearboxes and hand wheels. Inside the turret itself there are two four piece vision blocks, spent ammunition plug, vent cover, the breech and sight for the main gun which is slide through the trunnion mount, as is the three piece co-axial machine gun. The turret roof is fitted with a two piece hatch and before it is glued into position the machine gun ammunition drum is attached and the spent cartridge chute to the main gun. The roof is then attached, as is the outer mantlet and barrel cover of the main gun. The turret is the attached o the hull and the build is finished off with the fitting of more PE brackets around the hull and the engine exhaust glued into position. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for eleven different vehicles, seven Soviet vehicles and four captured units re-used by the Wehrmacht. All of the vehicles, with the exception of one are from unidentified units. The one vehicle whose unit is know is from T-60 of the 64th Tank Brigade, 21st Panzer Corps, 6th Army of the South-Western Front, Kharkov offensive operation of the Red Army, May 1942 Conclusion This is another amazing kit from MiniArt and brings yet another lesser known military vehicle to the mainstream modelling community. With the numerous parts count and the large number of very small parts, this kit is really aimed at the more experienced modeller, but looks like it should build up into a superb model, absolutely full of detail, so much so that there shouldn’t be any need for aftermarket parts. Since I received this sample, two more versions have been released. Review courtesy of
  9. Panzer II

    Hello guys, a little Panzer 2 during French Campaign enjoy
  10. Hello, starting a new project, Sd.Kfz. 186 Jagdtiger - Henschel Production Type - Dragon - Nr. 6285 - 1:35 more picts soon
  11. Hello guys, this is one of my first kit in 1:35, Tiger 1 with white camo
  12. Well here we go... My first serious foray in to the dark world of WWII German AFV modelling. So to start my 'new direction' I though I'd go with something that everyone has seen before just to try my hand, see where it goes. This is the Academy Tiger IE 'Early Production' kit just falls together no issues whatsoever (yet - not tried to put the running gear on of course), I won't bore you with the build as for me, this is about the 'colouring in'. I started with an overall black shadow coat as usual. Next I undercoated with a very light misted Tamiya flat brown coat followed by 'Deck Tan' for the highlights and just a spot or three of white for the high, highlights. That done I left it for a day to dry thoroughly. For the basic 'Dunkelgelb' I mixed Tamiya XF4 'Yellow Green' and XF60 'Dark Yellow' in roughly 30/70 proportions and thinned it with around 30% Iso - unfortunately when I shot the first coat it spattered intermitently so I added more Iso to my mix and got a much smoother flow. As it's very mild here in NZ just now, the model dried really fast on a sunny window-ledge and was ready for camo in an hour. I had a picture in my head of how I wanted the stripes and 'meandering lines' to look, so took a deep breath thinned some 'Field Grey' and shot it freehand using my trusty Iwata BR with the difuser tip removed to get a very fine line. There are some touch-ups and errors but not too many - for some odd reason I simply cannot get the camo on the barrel to work, but I'll keep plugging-away at it. Once I'm happy with the camouflage I'll shoot a couple of coats of 'Klear' to seal it all in then get the (few) decals on. Please feel free to make any comment, criticism or ask a question. More soon. Ian.
  13. Just finished, Academy M18 Hellcat... Bought as soon as it came out in 1997, started almost as soon as I got it home, finished this morning !! Used about 30% of the Verlinden kit-specific detail set including some 'old skool' etched brass (yes BRASS), resin stowage etc, other stowage from various Tamiya and Academy sets, .50cal is from the old Tamiya US Weapons set. Most of the decals are from the spares box. Really enjoying my AFV modelling at the moment, so much so that I'm even going to try something that isn't Olive Drab in the very near future !! - As ever thanks for taking the time to look and/or comment please feel free to make any comments, criticisms or ask any questions. Stay tuned. Ian.
  14. This is my T-62 built as a Syrian machine used during the Yom Kippur War with Israel in 1973. The kit is from Trumpeter, and was lots of fun to build. I understand there are problems with the contours of the hatches, and some other things, but whatever. The kit was a lot of fun to build, and detail. I added by own plumbing for the spare tanks and replaced grab handles with wire. Some day I'll add a figure. Paints are Model MAster Acrylics, and all weathering was done with washes. About four or five different shades. I also utilized some pencil graphite on edges and scratches, as well as baking soda for sandy silt textures. Please excuse the weird colors, this was photographed indoors under two junky lamps.
  15. Miscellaneous Items for IBG Rosomak APC 1:35 Master The IBG Rosomak Polish armoured personnel carrier is a superb kit in its own right. But, naturally, MASTER models have found a way of improving it with the three sets reviewed here. [GM-35-013] – Although designed for the IBG kit, this single straight aerial set could be used on other vehicles. The set includes the aerial, the aerial spring base and two elements, as MASTER describe them. These elements are attached to the base, and are in fact protective covers for the aerial base if the aerial itself is removed, so you only need to fit one. Suffice to say they are very small and well protected in their foam square within the package. [GM-35-014] – Another aerial set for the Rosomak, or any other vehicle with a similar aerial set up. This set includes the aerial, bent spring base, the same elements as above, a small sheet of etched brass and a length of fine cord. The aerial is glued to the base unit along with the elements, then, one of the PE tensioning rope rings is bent to shape and slide over the top of the aerial, while another pair of rings are attached to the turret with two brass rivets, for which a 0.5mm hole is required. The cable is run from one turret ring, via a carabineer and cable mounted eye ring, through the aerial ring and back to the other turret ring, with the same set up as the first ensuring it has the right tension. [GM-35-015] – Smoke grenade launchers. This set is for the Rosomak vehicles with the 30mm turret. It consists of a resin plate, brass launcher tubes, two types of resin covers and five brass rivets. The brass tubes are fitted into the tubes on the resin plate, the choice of cover decided upon and attached. The plate is then fitted to the kit turret and five 0.5mm holes drilled, into which the brass rivets are glued. Conclusion Here we have three more very useful and attractive sets. The aerial look great, but are easily bent and care should be taken if displaying near children, particularly at shows, as they are very sharp and could easily hurt someone looking too closely. The smoke launcher set is very nice, but prepare to test your eyes with the rivets. This goes for the cable attachment points on the bent aerials set too. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  16. Quad Rocket Launcher 1:35 MENG Arriving in a brown cardboard box with a black label, on which a faint outline of a pick-up truck is just visible. On the back of the truck, or Technical as they are sometimes known, is a slightly brighter outline of a rocket launcher. It is this launcher that is the subject of the model inside. MENG have released a number of these Technicals, in both vanilla and armed with a variety of weapons that the users seem so adept at fitting to them. They are now releasing separate weapons systems for you to do your own conversions. Inside the box there are three bubblewrap bags with various amounts of resin parts in them. There are nineteen parts in total, in a dark grey resin. All the parts are well moulded with very little sign of flash or other imperfections and all with the thinnest of attachment points to their moulding blocks, so removal and cleaning up shouldn’t be too much of a problem. Construction begins, once all the parts have been separated and washed in warm soapy water, with the joining of the two pairs of two launchers, on above the other, plus the base plate, two trunnion plates and a gear elevation quadrant. The two support plates are attached to the trunnion plates and thence to the five piece launcher base turntable, a hand wheel, locking leaver and foot pedals. On the right hand side there is an actuator unit fitted. The two part support stand is then assembled and the base unit glued to it. The whole assembly is fitted into your chosen vehicle. Conclusion This is certainly an unusual subject and one which could find use in many scenes and dioramas than the one it was intended. The moulding quality is superb and the completed unit will look quite effective with a bit of weathering. Review sample courtesy of
  17. Soviet Assault Infantry 1:35 MiniArt MiniArt have a great selection of figures in their catalogue, the latest set is of five Soviet assault infantry with winter camouflage cloaks. Each of the five men are in different poses, which look similar to tank rider positions. Only the figure with the DP light machine gun is really in a firing position, although two others look in a pretty high state of readiness, whilst the other two look more relaxed. Each figure is made from multiple parts, with separate torso, legs, arms and head. To the assembled body, there are three parts for the hood of the cloak and the various weapons each is holding. There are a number of different styles of pouches, but these aren’t used on the figures, but could be used separately, hanging from a tree or armoured vehicle. There are three different weapons included, the PPSh-41 with its distinctive drum magazine a separate part. Four of these assault weapons are provided, but you only need to use them with three figures. The DP light machine gun is assembled with a separate disc magazine, front sight and bi-pod, with the option of pose extended or folded. There is another light machine gun, which I cannot identify in the kit, very similar to the DP, but with a metal, folding stock should you wish to use it. There are three rifles provided, two Mosin–Nagant rifles, one standard, with separate bolt section and one PU sniper rifle with bolt section and separate telescopic sight. There is also a Mosin–Nagant carbine, but not used. Conclusion The parts are nicely moulded, but there does appear to be some seams that will need removing and quite a few moulding pips. Assembly is pretty straight forward and they will look great in a winter scene diorama. The biggest headache will be painting them to look realistic. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Model T LCP. 1:35

    Model T LCP ICM 1:35 One of the most numerous and famous cars in the world’s history was the Model T, produced by the Ford Motor Company. These cars were widely used on all fronts during WWI. In particular the Australian Mounted Division had some British Ford production Model T cars with Lewis machine guns mounted. These vehicles, called the LCP, (Light Car Patrol), saw combat in Egypt and Palestine in 1917 and 1918. The Model The model arrives in the usual sturdy box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are two sprues of light grey styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the the exhaust are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if you’re not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, fan belt, dynamo, exhaust manifold, cooling fan, cooling pipes, and other sundry items. The radiator is moulded together with the front axle and just needs the radiator grille glued to it to complete the assembly. The radiator/axle is then glued to the front of the floor pan/chassis along with four eyebolts/engine mounting bolts. The two part fuel tank is then assembled and fitted to the chassis, along with the engine assembly. The rear axle, drive shaft and differential are built up from only three parts and fited to the underside of the chassis along with the two piece exhaust/silencer unit. The front and rear axle support frames are then added, as is the steering rack. The four wheels, moulded as single parts are glued to the axles and the instructions move to the body work. The truck bed is made up of the bed, sides, front and rear sections, in addition to the outer curved panels, bench seat and rolled up canvas cover. The gear stick and steering column are then fitted to the chassis as is the truck bed assembly. The two part battery is fitted to the driving compartment bulkhead, along with the coaming, doors and three foot pedals. This assembly is then fitted into position between the truck bed and engine compartment. Each of the two part bonnet sections are fitted with grab handles, then glued together, before being fitted to the engine bay. If you’re very careful, the modeller could cut the lower section of one side of the bonnet and fold it up along the hinge line to show off the engine. Each of the two styles of headlights and single tail light are assembled, as is the steering wheel and column and seat back/bulkhead. The machine gun mount is glued into position on the passenger side and fitted with the three piece Lewis machine gun. The model is completed with the fitting of the spare tyre, the headlights/tail light, a three piece storage box and three piece water container. Decals The small decal sheet contains identification numbers for two vehicles and a small crest for the radiator. The two vehicles are both painted in the overall sand scheme. Model T LCP, Dead Sea Region, Palestine 1918 Model T LCP, Palestine 1918 Conclusion It’s good to see these rather unusual vehicles being released, particularly for the WWI aficionados and also remembers the role played by the Australian forces during the Great War. Whilst not a complicated kit, certainly by ICM standards, it looks like it will build into a nice little model. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Greetings, all ! I present to you my recent work: test-build T-60 early series from MiniArt #35215 with interior pleasant viewing :-) foto is clicable
  20. T-54-3 (MiniArt;1:35)

    Greetings, all ! I present to you my recent work: test-build T-54-3 model 1951 from MiniArt #370007 pleasant viewing :-) foto is clicable
  21. A kind friend in the USA bought me this old Academy kit. I won't build it quite 'OOB' - I'll definitely add the Eduard brass set - or part of it - and i need to move the crane, which is in the wrong place. I may also decide to use the 'late' bin-fit, rather than the early as on the picture here - but to begin with it doesn't make any difference to the build. So here we go. Out of order, of course - who needs instructions?
  22. 1945 King Tiger Takom/Ammo 1:35 Hitler, and therefore Nazi Germany was obsessed with bigger which they equated with better, and this was reflected in almost every aspect of arms production in the run-up to, and throughout World War II. After the Panzer IV had been matched by Allied designs, the Tiger addressed the balance back in their favour, becoming the most feared combatant from any force, despite several draw-backs of its design, such as a weak transmission, and a level of complexity that meant it was slow to manufacture, prone to break-downs and expensive to repair. Expecting the Allies to bring heavier tanks to the field before too long, the King Tiger, Tiger II, or Königstiger as the Sd.Kfz.182 was known came into existence, having begun development even before the war started. Porsche's ground-breaking and complex design was unsuccessful for this reason, while the Henschel proposal was taken forward to production, using the same underpowered Maybach engine that was barely adequate for the Tiger I, and taking on the sloped armour of the successful Panther to significantly increase the effective thickness of the armour whilst keeping weight down to a staggering 70 tonnes. The initial turrets had curved surfaces that were difficult to manufacture, and a redesign was necessary to cure this and remove the shot-trap under the mantlet, with the new design being known today as the Henschel turret, while the old design became the Porsche turret, although both were designed by Krupps. A weak transmission design, coupled with the underpowered engine ensured that many vehicles broke down in the field, and plans were in progress to improve both aspects with fuel-injection and a new drive-train, but were curtailed by the end of the war. Most of the initial order of 1,500 units were built under difficult circumstances due to bombing of the factories and the encroaching Allied forces, and despite its problems it became one of the icons of German tank design of WWII, with a number surviving to be placed in museums, with some still running. The Model We have had a few King Tiger (KT) kits in 1:35 over the years, but nothing new for quite a while, and at times the preferred brands have been hard to come by with prices reaching silly levels on eBay. Takom's new range of KT kits aims to provide a full set of these imposing tanks, with and without Zimmerit anti-mine coating, with Henschel and Porsche turrets, and with or without interiors. This should cater for almost every possibility, and if you like your tanks buttoned up, you won't be wasting the interior if you buy wisely. This special edition kit has been produced in an alliance with AMMO by Mig Jimenez. The types included from the box haven’t been released by Takom before, so you can add it to your collection without fear of duplication. It is ostensibly a 1945 King Tiger Ausf B with a Henschel Turret, but one of the options is to build it as a July 1945 Project with Infra Red sights, whilst the other is for a Standard March 1945 Late version. Inside the box are a lot of sprues, taking up almost all the available space. There are ten sprues, two hull parts and upper turret in a grey styrene, one sprue of clear parts, one small sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, and decal sheet. The instruction guide is in the by-now-familiar Takom format, in landscape A4, with a separate booklet for the painting instructions. All the parts are beautifully moulded with no sign of flash or other imperfections, but there are quite a few moulding pips, and for those modellers who have an aversion to indie link tracks, look away as, although these are link and length, each individual link is connected to the sprue by no less than six gates which will require the nice tedious job of cleaning them up before fitting. Construction begins with the rather unusual start point of the upper hull and the fitting of the towing cables, pioneer tools, and the separate panel for the drivers and bow gunners hatches. Inside, there is a large panel glued to the inside of the glacis plate, along with the two periscopes. The three piece bow machine gun is then assembled and glued into the ball socket in the bow plate. Then, on the outside the rest of the ball mechanism is fitted, along with the armoured hood. The track guards are also added at this point, although I’d probably leave them off until the entire hull is complete and the tracks fitted. Each of the road wheels and the sprockets are made up from two parts whilst the idlers are three part units. Once the gearbox covers and axles have been fitted to the hull all the wheels can be attached to their relative axles. There is a separate lower glacis plate to be attached as well. With all the track links and lengths cleaned up it’s just a case of patience and following the build guide carefully, ensuring it sags in the correct places. If you’re following the instruction rigidly then you will be fitting the upper hull to the lower at this point then adding the upper bow mounted track guards, three piece bow mounted light and lower, inner gearbox covers, to which the towing shackles are attached. The rear bulkhead is fitted out with the engine gearbox cover, a smaller access hatch, two, three piece exhausts, exhaust covers, track puller, the two rear mudguards and rear mounted towing shackles. The completed bulkhead is then attached to the rear of the hull. On the rear upper hull alternative centre engine covers, one is fitted with three individual engine hatches each fitted with a ventilation style dome and two other access hatches. The alternative centre hatch is fitted with a single large hatch each with two ventilation domes. There are also alternative radiator covers, attached each side of the centre hatch, there have different grilles and on one style the grilles are covered by armour plate. Each of the centre mounted circular opening is covered by PE grilles. Each assembly is then glued into position. The turret is assembled next, with the single piece centre section of the turret fitted with the roof, inner rear bulkhead, gunners internal hatch framing, inner section of the commanders cupola, outer rear bulkhead gunners hatch actuator, in open or closed position, three piece gunners hatch, periscope cover, small access hatch and grab handles. The large eight piece rear mounted hatch is then attached with its hinge covers, along with the roof mounted ventilator cover or alternative cover plate. The turret base is fitted with the gun trunnion section via two trunnion mounts and then glued to the turret. The outer commanders cupola is fitted with the seven periscope covers before being glued into position. The turret is then further detailed with four sets of six track link brackets and ten links, two at the front and three at the rear on each side. The March 1945 version is fitted with the commanders four piece hatch and a four piece MG34 machine gun. The July 1945 is fitted out with the same style hatch, but instead of the machine gun there is an eleven piece infra red sight and searchlight, plus on each side of the turret there are covers for the new rangefinder. The five piece gun barrel is the same for both versions, but the mantlet is slightly different, each version made from three parts, but make sure you are using the correct mantlet. The completed turret is then attached to the hull, completing the build. Decals Since there are four decal/paint schemes for each of the two versions the paint instructions is quite large, but very well printed. So good in fact you could possible separate them and frame them should you wish. All the paint codes are for AMMO paints, but with the German names for each colour. There are six schemes with vehicle numbers; the other two just have generic crosses etc. The decals have been printed by AMMO and although only a small sheet they are nicely printed, in register with good opacity. The larger numbers though have quite prominent carrier film, so will need a good gloss coat before applying. The options are by the town they served in and include:- Standard King Tiger from Paderborn 1945 King Tiger, No. 304 based at Hamm 1945 King Tiger, No. 421 based in Koln 1945 King Tiger, No. 235, found at the Henschel Plant, February 1945 Infra Red fitted King Tiger, based in Wildau 1945 King Tiger, based in Gorlitz 1945 King Tiger, No 502, based in Saltsburg, Austria 1945 King Tiger, No 232, based in Kassel 1945 Conclusion This is a very nice kit, as we have come to expect from Takom, and it is an interesting alliance with AMMO. Although, if you’re going to do something with a paint company, at least include some paint in a special edition like this, even if it was of only one or two schemes. As a marketing ploy, which it after all it is having some paint in the box may have got some modellers moving over to those paints rather than just sticking with what they know. The track links are also a bit of a letdown, since the previous release, with interior had the links separate in poly bags, it’s strange Takom went with the link and length approach. Other than that a fairly easy build and will look great in any collection. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  23. Hello ! Decided to dilute the military theme with a civilian version of the German truck. If I placed it wrong, please correct it. This is a new MiniArt's set with civilian inscriptions, beer and milk boxes. I wanted to make it clean, but as always the tank turned out :-)
  24. Typ L3000S Light Truck. 1:35

    Typ L3000S Light Truck ICM 1:35 From 1940 onwards the German army, by standardizing and simplifying the numerous types of trucks, tried to improve the procurement of spare parts and facilitate repairs. The result was the standard 3 ton truck, which all German manufacturer snow used as a basis for construction. This was also the basis on which the motor manufacturer in Cologne produced the "V3000S" from 1941 onwards. Various bodies and sets of equipment were available. A typical recognition feature was the oval radiator grille and one-piece windscreen. In total about 25,000 examples were built. The "V 3000 S" came to be used on all fronts in the Second World War and was indispensable for supplying the troops with goods of all kinds. The Model This is an all new tooling, replacing the rather complicated older releases. The model arrives in a strong box with a separate top sleeve with a nice artist’s representation of the vehicle on the front. Inside, within a large poly bag, are three sprues of light brown styrene and, in a separate poly bag, one clear sprue. On initial inspection the parts are really well moulded, clean, with no sign of flash. There are a number of moulding pips, some of which are on quite fragile looking parts, so care should be taken when removing. The sprue gates attaching items like the cover rails are also quite heavy and I can see these parts breaking if not careful. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block and gearbox halves glued together followed by the addition of the rocker covers, starter motor, alternator, front engine mounts, cooling fan, air filter, cooling pipes, gear stick and other sundry items. The instructions then move on to the chassis rails with the addition of five cross members and rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye, cover and pin are added. To the top of the main rails the two sub rails are added. The front and rear leaf springs are fitted along with the rear axle and transfer box. Turning the rails over the engine can now be fitted plus the exhaust system, which comprises of seven parts, and looks particularly fragile so it may be an idea to build in situ rather than as a separate assembly the instructions call for. The two driveshafts are then be added, as are the radiator/front chassis end piece. The steering rack assembly is built up using the four parts provided and, if the modeller chooses can be built up so that the front wheels are posable, although this may make it rather fragile, particularly the rear tie rod. After fitting the various brackets and supports as well as the front bumper and tow hooks, it’s onto the wheels, these come as single piece tyres plus inner and outer hubs. There are seven provided, singles for the front, doubles for the rear and a spare which fits on the chassis behind the cab and under the bed The building of the cab begins with filing off the ejection pins marks on the underside of the floor, before fitting the pedals, steering column, steering wheel and handbrake handle. The seat support and cushion is fitted to the floor, whilst the windscreen, instrument panel, with decal instruments, are fitted to the roof/front part of the cab. Onto the rear panel of the cab the seat back and rear screen are attached. The next assembly for the cab is the bonnet, which is made up of left and right hand parts, bonnet and radiator grille. The completed bonnet cannot easily be made to be posed either open, which is a shame. To finish off the front, the mud guards/foot plates are attached along with the doors, which are made of the external panels, door cards, clear parts, and door handles. Last details are the wing mirrors, lights, wipers; grab handles, spade, triangular roof marker, jerry can and its support bracket. The last assembly is the truck bed, with the bed itself being fitted with the side, rear, and front plank sections. On the underside, five lateral strengthening beams, and two longitudinal beams are fitted. The spare wheel is also attached, along with two storage boxes, two three piece Jerry can cages, complete with four piece Jerry can, and the two wheel arch attachment sections. A third storage box and the two wheel arches are then fitted and the assembly is ready to be attached to be attached to the chassis. To complete the build the windscreen wipers, wing mirrors, grab handles, pioneer tools, headlamps, hood ornament and convoy triangle are glued into their respective positions. Decals Apart from the instruments mentioned above, the small decal sheet gives the modeller four options. The decals are nicely printed, clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. The options:- Typ L3000S, Ukraine, Summer 1941, in Panzer Grey overall Typ L3000S, Russia, Summer 1942, in Panzer Grey overall Typ L3000S, North Africa, Summer 1942, in Africa Corp Brown Overall Typ L3000S, Italy, Summer 1944, in Dark Yellow overall with Olive Green stripey blotches. Conclusion This is another great truck kit from ICM and a much easier build than their previous releases. The details straight from the box are still good, and there is plenty of scope to add extra detail, particularly to the engine and the very empty cargo bed. Once built and weathered this truck will make a nice component to a multi-vehicle diorama, or on its own with a bit of imagination and some figures, one or two of which would have been nice to have been included in the kit. There doesn’t appear to be anything that would trouble anyone other than complete beginners, so I can quite happily recommend this nice and quite interesting truck. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Panzerspahwagen P204(f). 1:35

    Panzerspahwagen P204(f) ICM 1:35 The Model Originally issued by ICM in 2015, they have now re-released it with new parts to build a railway mounted vehicle. Inside the top opening box, with a nice representation of the vehicle on tracks, there are eight sprues of beige, (Caramac), coloured styrene, and a small decal sheet. All the parts are very nicely moulded, with no sign of flash or other imperfections and very few moulding pips. Since the kit has a full interior there are quite a few parts, also the fact that there are a few versions of this kit there are also quite a few parts that will end up in the spares box. Construction begins with the fighting compartment floor being glued to the lower hull, followed by the rear driver’s bulkhead and both drivers seats. The longitudinal bulkhead between the rear driver’s compartment and engine compartment is then glued into position, followed by the eleven piece engine. The drivers steering columns and steering wheels are next, along with the gear sticks and foot pedals. The rear drivers transverse bulkhead is then fitted as is the rack of shells for the main gun, which is glued to the fighting compartment bulkhead. Each of the two sides of the hull has a door that can be posed either open of closed. On the inside of each side there is a plethora of ammunition drums, for the machine gun, to be glued into position, along with the driver’s instruments and a spare machine gun. The large two piece radio set is then fitted to the left hand side of the fighting compartment. The sides are then glued to the lower hull, followed by the front and read bulkheads and front glacis plate. The rear mounted engine deck is then attached, along with the fighting compartment roof. The engine louvers and rear mid-bulkhead hatch are then attached, and can all be posed open should the modeller wishes. The rear wheel arch mounted storage boxes are then fitted and finished off with their respective doors. Fortunately, the running gear and suspension on this kit is really simple, just the two axles with two piece differentials and drive shafts are assembled, the four suspension spring units are then fitted to the underside of the hull, followed by the axles/drive shafts. The steering linkages are then attached, along with the brake accumulators, drop links, horn and towing hooks. The rail wheel with two additional rings fitted to the outer hub area. Once assembled the four wheels are glued onto their respective axles. The rest of the hull is then detailed with grab handles, door handles, pioneer tools, headlights and a rack on the rear bulkhead. The turret is then assembled; beginning with the co-axial machine gun, which is assembled from three parts before being fitted to the left hand front of the turret. The main gun comes in two halves, which once joined together are fitted with the trunnion mounts and elevation wheel. This is fitted to the turret ring along with the turret traverse mechanism. The turret ring and turret are then joined and the commanders and gunners seats are assembled and glued into position. The commander’s hatch is fitted with a handle and vent before being fitted into position. The two rear hatches on the turret can be posed open or closed. There are two, two piece periscopes fitted forward on the turret roof, and two lifting eyes on the rear sides. The completed turret is then fitted to the turret ring on the hull, and more parts added. These include the two, two piece drivers viewing ports, which can also be posed open, the two piece exhaust silencer, wing mirrors and four miscellaneous panels. Finally the large radio aerial bedstead is fitted to the two piece turret mounted swivel support and the two, two piece rear mount fixed supports. For display the kit includes a length of track which is made up from ten sleepers and two lengths of rail. Decals There are two decal options, the decals look pretty good, they have good opacity and are in register, printed by ICM themselves. The options are:- P204(f) Panzerdraisine, Russia 1943 – 1944 in overall yellow with red and green splotches. P204(f) Panzerdraisine, Panzer Zug No.64 armoured train, Eastern Front, 1943. Conclusion This is a great little kit and would certainly make a good talking point in your collection or on your clubs display table. With the interior, all the hatches and panels can be left open and maybe fitted with a small LED light to really look the business. It’s also a good basis for a diorama with the rails on a nicely made up base and some figures. Review sample courtesy of
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