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  1. I thought I would start a post to say I have started to build my next model. All my models are built from scratch and as before the process will start in 3ds Max. In addition, I have tweaked the version of the T-47 Speeder I created minus the landing gear, I am currently making two Speeders to go with the Walker. All models will be 1/55 scale which will make the Speeders 10cm long and the ATAT around 41cm tall! As before I’ll update with some pics as I go
  2. Hi all and here's some Falcon for a Friday. Really enjoyed this one which I started earlier this year but got distracted by group builds. The build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Bandai MillenniumFalcon 'Lando Calrissian' version Scale: 1/144 Build: Out of box Decals: From kit Paints: Tamiya black as primer, Tamiya White, Klear, Flory Models wash, pastels, finished with W&N satin varnish. Extras: Engine & cockpit lighting kit by https://www.captainjacksmodels.co.uk/ Thanks for looking, stay safe and happy modelling! Der Bandai_Lando_Millennium_Falcon_1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Lando_Millennium_Falcon_4 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Lando_Millennium_Falcon_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Lando_Millennium_Falcon_5 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Lando_Millennium_Falcon_2 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr (Click for video) IMG_8947 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr
  3. After a number of weeks I am pleased to share my finished T-47 Snowspeeder! I have tagged a few members that have commented through the build so you can see the finished article (I hope you don't mind). @Konrad Popławski @Pete in Lincs @Hunter Rose @SMD70 @moondrome @Soeren Please see the build thread here: The finished render in 3ds Max before exporting to Pepakura: An some photos of the model: Made from 230GSM Paper, Superglue and Bostik Glue and Nimble Fingers! The model is 1/55 scale so approx 10cm long to match my previous builds. Hope you like it
  4. Slave 1 – Boba Fett’s Ship (05678) 1:88 Revell WARNING: If you've been trapped behind a wardrobe since the 1980s, there may be some spoilers ahead. You have been warned! We were introduced to Boba Fett the bounty hunter and his ride, Slave 1 in Star Wars Empire Strikes Back in 1980, when he was tasked by the Empire to hunt down and capture Han Solo, and to bring Luke Skywalker to an ambush, in order to tempt him to the Dark Side of the Force. We saw the ship for the first time when the Millennium Falcon detached from a Star Destroyer when they dumped their garbage before their jump to light-speed, although it was only a brief glimpse at that point. Later we saw it parked at Cloud City on the gas giant Bespin, when a frozen Han was trundled aboard his ship and it took off in a flamboyant style while Princess Leia and Chewbacca fired upon it in a desperate attempt to prevent his departure, setting up the beginning of the final part of the original trilogy. Slave 1 showed its age when it appeared in the Prequel trilogy under the command of Boba’s father, Jango Fett, with a substantially cleaner and better-kept exterior, although the older blue and yellow parts of the scheme was a bit off-putting to my eyes. It was originally made by Kuat Systems as the Firespray-31-class patrol and attack craft, and somehow came into Jango’s possession, then with Boba at the controls after his father’s decapitation during a fight with a young and oddly Scottish Obi-Wan Kenobi. The Kit This is a re-release of Revell’s own Snap-Together kit from the previous decade, but without the crude factory-applied painting and with decals to complete the package. The kit is a celebration of the 40th anniversary of the release of Star Wars The Empire Strikes back, which to folks of my age is a sobering thought, and comes together with an A3 poster from the movie to celebrate that. It arrives in an end-opening box, and inside can be found seven sprues and two hull parts in grey styrene, a clear canopy, a vinyl Boba Fett figure to sit within the very visible control tub, which rotates with the craft’s take-off to fly in the “elephant’s head” position, rather than engines downward in “flat iron” mode. Thanks to the recent nature of the kit, the panel lines are engraved and detail is good right out of the box – only the scale is unusual at 1:88. This is a gift set edition too, so there’s a bag containing six pots of Revell acrylic paint, a small bottle of Contacta Professional glue, and a #2 brush. Construction begins with the aforementioned engines, which have a ribbed cylindrical form made up from two halves, with a domed internal structure that looks a little like an umbrella. The skirt on the lower hull is shown painted in the next step, with the strikingly gross patchwork of colours evidencing very poor maintenance over the years. The exhausts are clipped into the lower section of this part, which is then put to one side while the “elephant ears” are made up. The fins are comprised of two halves, and they are linked together with an axle that goes through the body to synchronise their movement when installed. The diagonal bracing struts are clipped around a pivot-point, and these are slotted into the hull underside detail panel, which is also painted up in the same haphazard style. Boba gets a detailed coat of paint, with lots of colour call-outs and a pair of decals adding small markings to his helmet. As the figure is vinyl, you might want to do a little research on how best to paint vinyl figures, so the paint doesn’t fall off later. I recall something about adding PVA to the paint, but don’t take my word for it. His control tub is also painted, given a seat and five instrument decals to add a little realism to the area, after which Boba’s large butt-plug is inserted into a matching slot in the floor to hold him in place. Anyone sniggering at this point should go to the back of the class. The cockpit is painted up, then receives the tub and Boba, with a choice of positions between flying and landing modes. The two fuselage halves are next, with detailed painting guide shown inline, with the same feature for the underside of the “trunk” area. The halves are brought together with a crystal-clear hinging canopy, which is most definitely not canon, and the axle that later holds the ship’s main armament, which should be fitted in position without glue to remain mobile. The cockpit and underside panel are both installed, then the weapons are glued to the tips of the axle so that someone much[/] more childish than you can go “pew pew pew!”. The two hull sub-assemblies are then brought together, and the detail insert is placed within the skirt of the lower hull, along with a saucer-shaped gun platform under the nose, with two blasters in grooves on opposite sides. Markings Slave 1’s paintjob is a mish-mash of colours that implies the craft has had a very demanding life since Boba took over ownership after his dad lost his head, so the painting guide is long, covering five pages in total, but you will still want to check your references to get the correct patina that reflects its grubby screen persona. There are a number of decals supplied that will ease painting of grilles and vents, plus a number of curved stripes that will save some masking. From the box you can build Boba Fett’s ship, but there’s nothing stopping you from portraying Jango’s scheme if you’re so minded, using your references and different paints to assist you. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Considering the origins of this kit as a more toylike offering, detail is good and only the strange choice of scale is a head-scratcher. If you’re not glued to a scale however, it will build up to a nice replica that will look great with a sympathetic painting and weathering scheme. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. Hi Everyone, this is something I've been working on as part of a bigger project to cover the (rather neglected) female pilots of the Star Wars OT era. Each project will have a craft and figure. For those of you that don't know, when they were made, ANH and ESB had no female pilots, but ROTJ was supposed to have them. They even shot video of three, but apparently test screenings of ROTJ with them in got negative comments about women in combat (this was 1983) so they took them out. Except one - an A-Wing pilot called Sila Kott who you can glimpse for a second before her death. But they over-dubbed her with a male voice! Of course, films like Rogue 1 and Book and Graphic Novels have since put matters right, but so far despite all the alterations, ROTJ is still female pilot free - although you can see them in the briefing room scene if you look very carefully. The first pilot I have done is Evaan Verlaine. She was the pilot of Y-Wing Gold 3 during the Death Star attack in ANH. You can see her craft at the very end just as the Death Star is about to blow along with Luke, Wedge and the Millennium Falcon. This is a canon retcon based on the Leia Graphic Novel (in Legends this pilot is Keyan Farlander). To create Evaan and Gold 3 I used the FineMolds 1:72 Y-Wing and a custom based on the Black Series 6" Luke Skywalker. Evaan Verlaine So far Evaan Verlaine has only been visualised in comic book form (in the graphic novel Princess Leia). The base for her figure is the 6" Black Series Luke Skywalker. All of the figure (apart from the chest box) has been repainted using Vallejo acrylics, using wet-blending, glazes and other interesting techniques I learned on YouTube. Her helmet is based on the supposed official one, but that is exactly the same as Blue Leader Antoc Merrick (in Rogue 1) so I made the alliance symbols Gold to make it different. Her head is 3D printed (using Shapeways) based on one I created using FaceGen Artist, DAZ Studio and 3DS Max. So who is she based on? Well officially there is only the graphic novel, however, there is a female cosplayer who thinks they may have based Evaan on her! I think she might have something, so the head is based on her. Y-Wing The main feature of Y-Wings is their beat-up Clone Wars era nature. To re-create that I initially sprayed the whole thing silver, then went round with maskol covering up places that would get worn or places damaged by attacks. A coat of FS36622 from Mr Hobby went over the top followed by rust for the pipe work. There is no accepted scheme for Gold 3 AFAIK, although due to script changes, Gold 5 has squadron markings that indicate Gold 3 (the cockpit stripes). So I just used a bit of artistic license and made it look as I wanted - I'm not a fan of the overuse of blue on the cockpit and engine pods so I made it as subtle as I could. Worn areas were left silver, but any battle damage areas were edged in black to simulate paint singeing. The whole thing was washed with Tamiya Panel line Dark Grey and a small amount of dry brushing of dirt was done. Ten points for anyone who can ID the R2 unit. This isn't canon (yet) but you never know! The next pair in the series will be TIE/Ln and Iden Versio from Battlefront. Thanks for looking 🙂 Chris
  6. This behind-the-scenes feature on ILM building a model Razor Crest for use in The Mandalorian TV series was on last night. https://youtu.be/8YuaIwVbEZo Great to see scale models being used again in this way. The skills on display are amazing. C’mon Bandai...now it’s your turn! Cheers, Dermot
  7. EL-5A Mouse Droid 1/12 3D Print I've recently bought a 3D printer (Elegoo Mars Pro), and have been slowly finding my feet with that and Fusion 360. I wanted something fairly simple as an initial print, and there's very little that's simpler than Nigel. He objected to a digital doppelganger though, so this initial print has become EL-5A who's now betrothed to Nigel in some kind of weird mouse droid arranged marriage. The print came out fairly well, although there are some things I need to tweak, both with the printing and with the original file. The upper body was done at 0.05mm layer hight, while everything else was done at 0.025mm, and there's a marked difference as you'd expect, so I'll be trying the body again at the higher rez. The one thing I wasn't sure would come out okay was the top greebles. I didn't know if my design would be beyond the printer's capabilities. As it turned out, they printed fine and are the bits of this model I'm most pleased with. They certainly showed just what the printer is capable of. She's not as heavily weathered as Nigel, which seemed only fair, and she's had the white stripes to reference her name and her status as the future bride of Nigel. Since I'd got the basic file for the body, I also printed up two more without the side panel details, so I could make up the Mouse train that was originaly envisaged for ANH, but never used on screen due to the unpredictability and general uselessness of all Mouse Droids. EL-5A, being an all-round better class of rodent, can handle them easily. Thanks for looking Andy
  8. Hello. This is the ‘moving edition’ from Bandai, comes with lights etc. no super interested in that, but it was this or the fine molds one that I couldn’t find on eBay at the time. one thing I don’t like much about these Bandai kits is the soft edges on many of the panel lines, so I’m thinking out removing them. At least on the nose. anyway, I’m trying to figure out if I need to create sub assemblies for painting, since it’s difficult to dry fit these kits. Very nicely detailed, The ‘power brick’ that contains the wing motor and the leds. Very toylike, I’m not a huge fan of the base either... we’ll see how this goes. Cockpit assembly, added few bits to it... not much. Pretty interesting how they engineered this around the red5 paint scheme. But I don’t like the massive panel gaps, so... I’m going to at least sand down the differences in the fit of the panels relative to the surface. I’m not sure what to do here, I think I’m going to glue these parts together to I can get rid of the seem. I’d rather do it to just the upper fuselage,so I have good sanding access. I think think I need to keep the canopy separate for now. Bandai give you an option for a framed one (here) that comes with a glazing piece that snaps in, but it’s very thick, and interfere’s with my shortsighted cockpit additions, that I am attracted to now. You also get a fully glass piece, like a traditional model kit, this version is thinner and allows you to pose the canopy up. I’m going to punt on making that call. Meanwhile, I joined the front and rear fuselages together. I hope this isn’t a huge mistake. Using superglue to fill the gaps (green zap a gap). Sorry for hand texture. A bit of primer to see where i’m at. I sure did blow away a lot of panel lines...
  9. How to Paint Imperial Galactic Fighters – Solution Book 05(A.MIG-6520) AMMO of Mig Jiménez There are a huge number of people that love the Sci-Fi movies of the Star Wars franchise, and some of the designs are amongst the most recognised spacecraft designs in the world. Of course there wouldn’t be any drama without a worthy adversary for the heroes of our story, which leads to the Galactic Empire, and later the First Order, who stepped in to fill the power vacuum after the apparent death of the evil Emperor Palpatine. Initially is was Star Destroyers and TIE Fighters, with the TIE Advanced making an appearance at the end of Episode IV during the Deathstar Trench battle, but the range of imperial equipment broadened with each successive movie. With the ending of the nine films of the Skywalker Saga, we’re spoiled for choice whether we enjoy portraying the baddies or the goodies. The Book This book deals with the baddies, although the techniques can be applied to many craft of either side. It is the turn of The Empire, specifically the TIE Advanced, and provides copious advice on how to create, paint and weather the 1:72 model, with kits from Bandai, Fine Molds, which is also reboxed in Revell garb, which is probably the easiest and cheapest option, given their excellent distribution network. After a brief introduction to the series, the first section of the book covers the various products that will be used during the second section, which are the products that are needed to complete the task, which are all available from AMMO as you would expect, but of course there are similar products available from other manufacturers that you might already have in your modelling arsenal. The second section contains a ton of advice on using the products mentioned in section 1. There is another short introduction regarding the specific subject as mentioned above, then it launches into the painting and weathering process beginning with a group of sub-assemblies that enable the modeller to get to work on the cockpit, the Darth Vader figure and the instrument decals around his seat. Then basic exterior painting is begun, initially having a bland overall coating, followed by painting the cranked “solar” sails and lots of masking of the black areas. The panel lines are darkened then various lightening phases are applied, plus accents, streaks and other grime that starts to individualise any model. As well as various captions, there are also a series of icons that help to guide you along, with a key at the beginning in case you can’t figure them out from the graphics. Oil Brusher highlights then gives way to washes of various colours to further break the monotony of the base colour and adding more streaks, stains and general degrading and weathering of the paintwork. Finally, a two-page spread shows a summary of the finished model with the product images around it with arrows showing where they were used. Conclusion These books are quite wallet friendly, and if you’ve not come across the techniques documented within they’re a useful resource. Even if you have used them before, they’re a useful quick reference, and for someone like myself with the memory of an amœba, they’ll come in very handy indeed. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Having bought an Anycubic Photon after Bootneck kindly pointed out they were on offer, I have been printing away for about 3 weeks. So now is the time to take the plunge and build someting that I've printed. I had been quietly watching StevenBills build of the Y-Wing using his Elegoo Mars and this got my interest up in building a Star Wars ship, the CG model was bought from CGTrader (same author as Steves Y-Wing) and away I went. A couple of weeks of printing got me here: Scalewise I thought I would revive the old 'Box scale' of the 50's, but this was going to be 'Printer scale' i.e. as big as the printer would handle. There were some issues along the way, mostly of my own doing, here is one of the main engines, correct on the left, failed print on the right: This was caused by the part next to it falling off the print bed, also the orientation of the part. Also I was getting a surface like cucumber skin: (Upper rear fuse parts) This was caused by orientation of the part on the print bed, the weight pulling the still soft resin out of shape. Most, if not all of the failures were caused by the orientation of the part on the printer bed, something I only realised part way through printing the kit so I've had to reprint a couple of parts and repair faults in others. Here is the difference that correct orientation makes, the two halves of the cockpit, correct orientation on the left, incorrect on the right. I've done some prep work on the resin (face mask firmly on ) sanding the flat surfaces to give better contact when assembling. The mating surfaces are not perfect, but better than most resin kits. As there are no instructions beyond an exploded view and some build photos I marked up some of the parts to avoid confusion. Thanks for looking in, Stuart
  11. "What a piece of junk!" This is my build of Bandai's 1/144 Millennium Falcon from Star Wars: The Force Awakens. Weathered with acrylic and oils. I also installed an LED strip and battery box inside.
  12. Hi all. I've been stuck with Wing B. I know what I want to achieve with the exterior paint but I'm not quite sure how to do it or the result. So since the Bandai kits yard is not enough to take things lightly and push forward to see what comes out I have decided to leave it until my ideas are clarified and in the meantime undertake a much simpler kit, in all aspects. And it was this little one's turn. Very good kit from the Fine Molds brand, with good details and equally fine and negative panel lines representing this small combat ship that appeared in the film “The Phantom Menace”, or Episode I of Star Wars, being piloted in it by young Anakin Skywalker. Ignoring the staple with the pieces of the exhibition platform, the kit consists of three small staples: two grey and one yellow. The cabin is quite well reproduced, as well as the figures that correspond to an adult pilot and the little Anakin, who is a due to his age and height is represented somewhat smaller, which will make it even more difficult to paint a figure that is to scale. 1/72. I don't know about you, but what has always caught my attention about the ships of the planet Naboo has always been the stylized shape and the pointed shapes that they have. Both this ship and Queen Amidala's cruiser as some other I've seen. So before undertaking the construction, starting with the cabin, I have decided to prepare this aspect of the ship. Both the fuselage and the engines have a very pointed finish, however the corresponding parts are not sufficiently represented. With 600 grit sandpaper and later 1200 grit I have refined the corresponding pieces. The cones on the front of the motors have also received the same job with sandpaper. And the area where the previous cones fit I have also worked. And this is all for now. Andrés S.
  13. Time for another build, and I'm excited about this one as its a kit I've wanted for a while. I was lucky to find this actually as I had initially found a 1/20 flaptter on t'internet from abroad but that was a total no show so with the refund I managed to snap up this kit for south of £20 which I was really pumped about and THEN totally out of the blue the flaptter turned up!!! So that freebie kit will be the build after this one Kit arrived sealed in the box, opened it up and the droid and STAP are in seperate bags, I'know its 1/6 but the size still amazes me, love a big kit! IMG_20200709_180429 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_180943 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_181056 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_181229 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I got it all on the bench, and I'm starting with the droid so made a start cutting bits and smoothing nubs and gluing. IMG_20200904_191658 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200906_113859 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Some of the bits are a sod to get together, so it was out with the clamps. Some of the bits are a bit bowed, push one end together and the other wants to open up! IMG_20200906_115419 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200909_192241 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Because I know there will be a lot of tidying up because of the fit I decided to just throw the torso together so I'm just dealing with one larger piece IMG_20200909_193757 by Nick Frost, on Flickr So torso is together with head on, I'll get the legs and arms together next before I start sanding and filling the whole lot where needed. I've heard that these guys are a swine to get on the STAP in a decent pose due mainly due to the fixed ankles, so at some point I'll probably break them and repin the joint at an angle that will allow a more realistic/dynamic pose. I think rather than having the STAP posed bolt upright on the stand I'd like to have it at a slight angle with the droid leaning slightly kind of like a motorcyclist going into a corner. But yeah for now, next up I'll get his limbs sorted. Thanks for looking, more soon
  14. Hi: Here you got my take on the smaller member of the AT family: the AT-PT. The model was CAD designed using Fusion360 and 3D printed with an Anycubic Photon resin 3D printer. These are all the required parts for this build. Please note all these pics show the naked model. No special post processing was required but removing the printing support trees. For comparaison purposes here we got the AT-PT body with the Imperial officer figure included in the Fine Molds 1:48th scale Tie figther kit. Compared to its bigger brothers, the migthy AT-AT and the double seat AT-ST, the single seat AT-PT looks like an imperial scooter. The source inspiration for this model came from the ancient Lucasarts video games. The simple lines reveals its digital nature but it is a rather appealing design for me at least. I have not decided a paint scheme yet. Plenty of options to choose from! That´s all for now so constructive comments are welcomed. Thanks for watching! Regards! Alvaro
  15. Hi to all. I just finished this beautiful kit, it is a snap kit, no glue si required. I painted with Tamiya acrylics, XF-2 and XF-53 in a 3:1 ratio with a drops of blue. I wanted to leave the upper hatch opened with a crew member looking out, so I modified a figure to change the posture from sitting to standing. This are the pictures, I hope you like it. Regards, Pablo
  16. After finally achieving a finished model in the last Bank Holiday Blitzbuild, I decided to see if I could repeat the success, so here is my entry for this weekend of holiday fun. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  17. It is time to show the world my finished project! A BTL Y-Wing from starwars. I chose to model the Y-wing as I like the shape of the ship, noticed that there were very few paper models done of this craft and felt it would be a good challenge! The model started with myself gathering image references from around the internet to gauge the complexity of the design, look at design ideas and how it would transition into the real world with card/paper. Top, side, front and back profiles were then placed onto planes in my 3D software which allowed me to start modelling the basic shapes. Once I was happy with these shapes it was a matter of adding detail, and then more detail and then some more until I was happy. I had to be aware when modelling that smaller detail below 2mm would be problematic trying to create them in card/paper. I made the decision early that the bent pipes would be impossible to create in paper so would add this detail near the end using plastic rods. Once I was happy with the model I grouped the sections together to make it easier to apply the texture and to build, applied a UV Unwrap modifier, flattened the shapes and then started skinning in PS. I find its a good idea to have the modelling software open to render as I make changes to the painted sections, it allows you to see how your design is taking shape in the 3D world. The following renders were from the finished model in the 3D software. Once completed the model was exported in 3DS format to an unwrap software called Pepakura. This allowed to lay out sections of the model to print onto card. As you can see from the next image the cockpit section and R5 is unwrapped ready to make. I then printed on 230GSM card stock, scoring the folds and using glue to pull it all together. (UHU and liquid super glue). The tubes at the end used XF-80 light grey as a base and then XF-66 and XF-72 with a light brush to give a little bit of detail. The model is 1/55 scale as I wanted to match a previous build that I had made.
  18. Hi,here's my Bandai at-st i built about June last year. Its a snap together build,but i did glue it! I built the whole thing unpainted, except the cockpit interior,airbrushed matt black, then airbrushed matt white in places to give some shading. Gave it a Tamiya matt grey(sorry,can't remember what colour grey!) top coat. Ak pigments,engine grime,light rust pigment,sponge chipping,and burnt umber oil paint for some rust stains. The cockpit and pilots, i had a few not so sharp pictures from the web from the empire strikes back movie,to get an idea of the colour layout,but as the at-st is fictional,a bit of creative license was used in the colours! I did add a set of harnesses made from kitchen foil and attached them to a wire frame i fitted. I didn't glue the roof,as i didn't want to spend loads of time and effort, only to cover it up! Lol! The stand,i masked off where the feet sit,put pva glue on and spread some modelling grass/foliage i got off ebay,Serious Play the name on the packaging. It had just the right amount of grass,sticks and twigs to give it that 'forest floor' look! I managed to find a case for it,despite its shape/dimensions! Ive got,waiting in the wings,2 more bandai kits,the 1/72 tie fighter and 1/12 stormtrooper, looking forward to those! Thanks all for looking:-)
  19. Here's one I built some years ago when i was in Saudi. I think I posted here back then but can't find it now. So it probably fell foul of the Photobucket thing. I gave it to my Son but over time it got damaged so I recently gave it a refurbishment. With some fine builds coming out of Scandinavia recently, I though it worth another showing. The figure was an ancient Revell Astronaut, the bike is totally scratchbuilt. In fact I started with some 1/24th Airfix Fw190 engine bits. TBH, it's a bit rough but was one of my early scratchbuilds and I have a soft spot for it. These sidepods once contained pencil leads.The landing gear was spares box stuff. I refurbished this Speeder Bike at the same time, so he can now do a flyby and check out the opposition. They're about the same scale. Thanks for looking, Comments are welcome as always. Pete
  20. Well, after searching and searching for a suitable base I have chosen to use the support of a photo frame. If someone wants to see the process that I have followed in this model, they can do so at the following link. Andrés S.
  21. Hi all. This ship from the Star Wars saga first appeared in the Return of the Jedi movie. It appears very briefly, at the moment before the attack on the 2nd Death Star, spreading its wings to the combat position. It is a heavy fighter equipped with various types and powerful cannons and that was expected to have more prominence in the development of the final battle, but due to the thinness of its fuselage and wings, there were problems with the Chroma process during the post-production of the special effects and their scenes were removed. It also appears at the end of the last movie in the galactic saga but I have not managed to see it. This time I am going to start the model the cockpit, which I have painted with various gray tones of Vallejo MC except for the metallic part for which I have used Alclad Aluminum, having as a base color the Neutral Gray of this Vallejo. I have highlighted details using oil and used Vallejo matte varnish for the final finish of the instrument panels and satin varnish, also from Vallejo, for the metallic area. Andrés S.
  22. IMPERIAL TIE FIGHTER Bandai 1:72 I've had the Bandai TIE Fighter waiting in the stash since last year when Model Hobbies were discounting the Revell imports. Having recently finished a bit of a marathon build, I was looking for some light relief and this one seemed like a good idea. There are very few parts on the TIEs, so assembly is fairly rapid. The painting was pretty quick too, in fact the longest job of the build was masking off the solar panels which I'd sprayed first. Nothing particularly exciting with the main painting - just a cool grey for the base coat, followed by some filters to pick out different panels. A pin wash and some highlighting of the smaller details finished it off. Thanks for looking Andy
  23. Hi all. It has been very fast to perform because they are few pieces and also their size is not large (it fits in the palm of the hand) so what you have to do with paint or effects does not make it lengthen over time. I have really enjoyed this kit and the pity is that I am afraid that Bandai is not replacing the kits that it launched at the time, since I see these kits more and more scarce and at a higher price. A shame because they are of the highest quality. Whoever wants to see the process followed with this model can do so at the following link. Andrés S.
  24. Hi all. I have started this Bandai kit, magnificent as the others I have of the brand and theme. I did not feel like continuing with the models that I have running. I do not feel like for now correcting this, removing the other or modifying what is beyond; so I have taken this kit from all the ones I have from Star Wars (which are quite a lot and more complex and numerous in pieces). The interior is exactly the same as the TIE Fighter, only the figure obviously changes because this is Darth Vader's personal fighter. As a base color I have used Tamiya Neutral Gray. To the front and the inside I have applied a soft dry brush with the same Vallejo MC tone clarified with white, although I have reinforced some details by applying the color with the brush normally. The profiling of details has been with a very dark mixture of Tan oil and Black. The details on the back, the ones on the back of the D.V., are painted with Vallejo MC tones and highlighted in the same way. The figure of D.V. It is painted with several very dark shades of gray and with black the helmet, gloves and boots but I have given the coat a coat of matte varnish and I have given the helmet and boots a shiny finish. It really is a useless job, since I know with cause from the TIE Fighter that almost nothing is going to be seen of the cabin even using a flashlight. Andrés S.
  25. Relatively new member been posting my latest build in aircraft but thought I’d post some of my other recently completed builds as well this one was a friends loft find started 35 years ago and then forgotten - absolute pig to build but turned out ok in the end
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