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Found 9 results

  1. This is my build of the M1A2 Tusk II by Rye Field Models. I haven't had much experience with full interiors, so this was a fun, and at times intimidating, kit to dive into. Painted with Tamiya lacquers, and weathered with oils and pigments.
  2. Hello fellow modelers, I prefer 1/48 modern military aviation, but two years ago I built these M1A2 Abrams 1/35 No. 35269 from Tamiya and placed them in diorama. Every now and then I like the variety of building 1/35 modern tanks and armored vehicles, in combination with figures, this gives the model in a Dio even more expression. What I can remember was painting the US Army ACU of the military figures was not an easy thing to do, I stamped the paint with a brush. I used two figures kits, U.S. Tank Crew Modern from MiniArt 1/35 No. 37005, US Check Point in Iraq from Master Box Ltd. 1/35 No. MB359 and CONCRETE & Plastic BARRIER SET from Meng 1/35 No. SPS-012. I hope you can appreciate my first Dio! Cheers, Jos
  3. Sadly this isn't as nice as the other one that's recently been displayed here, but it is the first kit I've completed in ages so I'm happy with it for that if nothing else. 🙂 Link to Flickr album. As you'd expect from a Tamiya kit it all went together very nicely. In retrospect I should have done assembly in a slightly different order to what I did - mainly I should have fitted the wheels and tracks to the lower hull before attaching the upper hull - but that's down to me, not the kit itself. Also I need to work out a good way of tidily painting the tyres on the road and idler wheels, as the tank's light paint scheme did me no favours when it came to hiding my lack of attention to detail there.
  4. Hey, I was looking at the new Tamiya M1A2 Abrams kits that were released last year in different scales and these all use the same paint scheme: flat sand. Have these vehicles ever been painted in the three-tone NATO camouflage, for instance? Or any other scheme, for that matter? Many thanks in advance! Cristian
  5. So during my refurbishment of my Tamiya M1A2 OIF, I decided to put to use the additional decals out of my Dragon M1A2 SEP kit. Unfortunately, those decals are not referred to in the SEP set at all (in some instances the instructions refer to decal numbers that don't exist, or incorrect locations in one case (I'll never trust Dragon instructions again tbh). Through a long and arduous search I've managed to procure some imagery to add the markings (APU for example), but others are almost impossible to find, since the only vehicle shots showing the hull seem to be devoid of markings. I added the 'Fuel' markings near the caps (Tamiya hull seems to have an extra cap so I could only mark three). Does anyone have access to the markings instructions from the Dragon M1A1 AIM kit? These seem to display the locations of these superfluous decals. I've got the bulk on, but still need to know where to place certain 'No Step' ones (added two the driver's hatch), as well as soe reading 'Read Warning Beneath' and 'Engine Service' as well as some small 'Lift Here' ones. Hugely appreciate any assistance with this one. Also, if anyone knows what the white serial number markings provided (with a white circle out line and two dots inside it) are, that'd be a huge help. Thanks. Gaz
  6. I started this last year before work and a Meng Cougar got in the way. I'd stuffed it to one side thinking that the Cougar would be finished within a few weeks. Oops! Six months down the line and I'm looking for all the bits. Might as well start with the sprue picture. At least it shows that I still have to find the side skirts, the Eduard brass and a gun barrel. Moving on here's the point I'd reached last year. There's a difference in the anti slip layers on the hull and turret. I'd just obtained Mig's antislip compound in a tube and started on the hull. Its much too course for modern armour and probably wouldn't look out of place on some of the older Russian gear. As a result of this I shifted to Mr. Shifter 500, painted it on, waited until it had dried a bit and then stippled it with a hard brush. Seems like a reasonable result for the moment. I read that some folks spray the stuff with their airbrush but I'd be worried I couldn't get the airbrush properly cleaned. Close up of the two effects: Here's a view of the work on the running gear so far: I'd chipped some of the tyres but its not easy to see as I didn't want to make it too extreme. I decided to go with the rubber tracks that came with the kit rather than investing in Fruils. I hope I don't regret that later. Going on the premise that the bulk of the track is hidden behind the skirts (if I can find them) and the quality of the Tamiya tracks I thought I'd give the Tamiya ones a go.
  7. Well, I've decided to try a WIP of my new M1A2 SEP TUSK (or Abrams Acronyms ). So far I've assembled components for the lower hull, minus the wheels, some components on the upper hull and turret, the reactive armour on the skirts, and the main gun. I then masked off the appropriate areas and gave it a coat of Rust-Oluem Terracotta effect for the anti-slip coating. Came out better than expected, but I think I'll need to lay some primer over it soon since the little grains in the paint seem to flake off fairly easy. Anyway, here's some pics of my work so far. That's all I've got for now
  8. GazB

    Anti-Slip Surfaces

    Hi all. I've just picked up a Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 SEP TUSK II (hurricane of acronyms there ). Was meant to be for Christmas but...I can't wait that long Anyway. I read over on Armorama - specifically this article, http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=50656&page=1- about adding anti-slip surfacing to Abrams kits that lack it. The substance mentioned, Rust-Oleum Terracotta spray, seems to do the job quite well. Homebase apparently stock it, but I wondered if anyone else had tried it. The article is from an American modeller, and while the stuff at Homebase matches the name, it isn't mentioned as being textured in the description, so I wonder if it is exactly the same. If it lacked texture it would obviously be a little pointless Has anyone else used it, either on a model or for its intended purpose? Edit: I've recently spotted some of that Tamiya Tarmac texture paint. Anyone know if that would be suitable anti-slip stuff, or would it be too thick? Cheers, Gaz.
  9. US Army M1A2 SEP MBT TUSK I/II (E35-192) 1:35 ET Model The Tusk I/II from Tamiya is a beautiful kit in its own right, but, once again ET Models have found areas where it can be improved. It’s not as extensive as their Merkava sets, but there are still two large sheets, three medium sheets and eleven small sheets of relief etched brass, along with two lengths of metal wire, one small resin part, two metal aerial springs and a slab of thick clear ABS plastic. The set comes in two of the standard ET packaging of poly bags stapled together onto the card header. The main sheets are taped onto black card, whilst the smaller sheets are contained in a zip lock poly bag, as are the metal and resin parts. The instructions of twelve sides of A4 green paper. These are very clear and well laid out, particularly with reference to where the sub assemblies are fitted to the kit shown in a line diagram. They will still require careful reading before starting to assemble the etched parts, as some of the kit parts need to be altered or removed before these can be added. Plastic or brass rod of various diameters will also be required to use as directed. ET Models have also used various thicknesses of brass for the sheets, so that the small items, such as straps will be easier to fold while items such as the reactive armour brackets and thicker and therefore stronger to hold the weight of the kit parts that are attached to them. The first task is to build up three ammunition boxes for the M2 50 cal and M240 7.62mm machine guns and two further boxes for what looks like 40mm grenades, for the smoke launchers on either side of the turret. This last box is the trickiest in that the internal holders for the rounds have to be rolled into shape before fitting into the box and an internal division fitted around them. Of course if the box is to be modelled closed the holders won’t need to be used. The gunners hatch receives internal sight details and an external ring which covers the gap between the hatch and the turret armour. A large gun ring is then fitted around the completed hatch. On the forward end of the left hand turret storage box a new shelf and support brackets is fitted along with the associated straps for one of the ammunition boxes. The machine guns are detailed nest, with the commanders weapon being fitted with new barrel handle, perforated barrel hand hold, front and rear sights, cocking handle, parts of which need to be made out of plastic rod, ammunition box cradle into which one of the previously made boxes is fitted, a length of ammunition belt and two locking pins with chains attached to hold the gun to the mounting. The 7.62mm M240 is fitted onto a new pintle mounting and ring slide, perforated barrel fittings, rear sight, ammunition box cradle and ammunition belt. The M2 fitted near the front of the turret over the main gun also receives new barrel fittings, front and rear sights, a complete mounting with the pins and chains to hold the gun on, cocking handle, rear firing handles, and ammunition cradle, box and belt. The turret is then fitted with new brackets and supports to the rear, while the stowage baskets are fitted with new perforated floors, ID panels, new jerry can shelves and a new cable reel. The refrigeration unit is fitted with a new top box and several handles. On the turret sides near the front the smoke discharges are fitted with new support brackets as are the spare 40mm ammunition boxes just in front of them. Also on the turret sides the new brackets and supports for the kits reactive armour pieces are attached. Above the mantle cover another small flap is fitted to cover the gap and new flash suppressor for the co-axial machine gun is rolled to shape and fitted into position. There are several new handles fitted to the drivers hatch and other fittings, including the chains for the fuel caps, around the hull. On the rear deck all the engine hatch mesh is replaced with brass parts and the rear hull is fitted with angled exhaust plates, ID plate support bracket, and telephone box, which is a small kit on its own. The side skirts are fitted with new front and rear mudguards, whilst to the rear a new skirt piece is fitted to the rear. The front and rear angled shields for the hull reactive armour are fitted once the kit parts have been attached. Finally the armoured sections that make up the commanders and loaders protection screens and assembled. Each screen section s folded to shape and fitted with pieces of the ABS sheet, the templates for each screen is contained on the instruction sheet. The sheet is 1.5mm thick so represents well the armoured glass fitted to the screens. If you’re not confident with cutting the sheet, then the clear parts in the kit could most probably be made to fit. Engine & Turret Rack Grilles, (EA35-093). If you think this is all too much and you only want to add a little extra something to your build then ET Models have also released a small set containing just the perforated grilles for the engine deck and the floors of the turret baskets. Conclusion This is an amazing set that provides so much extra detail that it’s difficult to describe it all. ET Models certainly give the modeller their monies worth. Some may say why bother when the kit is already so good, but you can’t get the scale thickness of metal or the finesse of detail in most styrene parts no matter how good the manufacturer. If you want a highly detailed model in your collection this is the only way to go, especially as ET Models haven’t replaced kit parts that don’t need replacing which can be a concern with other manufacturers. I can’t recommend this set highly enough and will certainly be using it when my Tamiya Abrams gets on to the work bench. Review Sample courtesy of
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