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Found 580 results

  1. #23/2017 On January 13th 1943, Unteroffizier Helmut Brandt of 2./JG54 was forced down by Soviet fighters and he made a crash landing on the frozen Lake Ladoga where he became a POW. The Soviets restored the aircraft to airworthy condition, tested and evaluated it. Until now my dad has built a bunch of Hasegawa 190ies and fit and quality was always good. This time he used the limited Graf A-4 edition but this kit couldn´t keep up to Hasegawa´s usual standard. Nevertheless my dad finished it. JG54 decals and Russian stars from the sparebox, EZ Line for aerials, plastic rods and lead wire for brake lines, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics. Build thread here: DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  2. To fill the "idle" time my dad starts another model. Gonna be a Soviet captured Butcher Bird using a Hasegawa kit and star decals from the sparebox.
  3. Fw 190 D-9

    Thought I would quickly get something up here before I get to the painting stage of my latest, the Revell boxing of Hasagawa's handsome 190 D-9 in the large scale. I seem to have taken a long time with this one and made life difficult for myself by ever-so slightly misaligning the wing spar which then throws out other areas of the wing to fuselage joint. I managed to get it perfect on only one side, the other side and the under-fuselage insert requiring more work than I would like. As you can see the new technique beign tried out for the first time on this one is a full riveting job The underside with all that engine detail on view And a close-up of all those rivets (which took me forever), not perfect but hopefully will look OK under a couple of layers of paint
  4. This is the second one of Hasegawa's 1:8 Scale Museum Series Camels that I have built. The kit remains the most enjoyable that I have assembled and the multimedia aspects of it call on a lot wider skills than I tend to employ on polystyrene kits. The aircraft is completed in the colours of one flown by the American RFC pilot Elliot White Springs, after he transferred to 148th USAS. I've built it as an 'engineering example' so deliberately haven't gone in for any weathering or chipping. Likewise the aircraft isn't a 100% copy of EWS' as he had the upper wing cutout enlarged as well as a few other mods. The model has actually been built for a guy in America who liked my first build, detailed on my blog, and asked if he could buy it. Instead I agreed to build the Hasegawa kit he had in his stash for him. Close up the second model has come out quite a bit better than the first, dammit. I thoroughly enjoyed the build though, even second time around, and at least I don't have the storage problem to worry about. Space on the modelling desk can become a bit tight towards the end of the build. And here it is with its temporary stablemates. The other half wouldn't have gone for a third hanging up in the lounge anyway!
  5. In May of 2016 I built the Hasegawa OV-1B kit. Due to a series of unfortunate events the clear parts got totally messed up (a common theme in my builds). In my efforts to get new transparencies I ended up with an OV-1A and an OV-1B kit. I had only intended to build an OV-1B kit but since I now had all the parts to build an OV-1A, including one set of good transparencies I decided to do a JOV-1A. In my case all that was required to convert the OV-1A to the JOV-1A was the addition of the extra weapons pylons and the appropriate XM-157 and XM-159 rocket pods, which I already had. The JOV-1A was an Army modification to arm the OV-1A for close tactical support, although the official reason was for fire suppression and target marking. These were deployed to Vietnam for operational testing and then withdrawn due to Air Force opposition to the Army use of fixed wing attack aircraft. The kit itself is of late 1960 vintage and shows its age, but there were no major issues other then the decals. They were slightly yellowed, but a few weeks taped to a south facing window fixed that. More serious they wing decals were over sized and they had color alignment issues. They did go down well with only minor silvering that was easy to correct. I used the Cobra Co. interior which I acquired from Lone Star Models. So on to the pictures Best I can do with an interior picture Next up is the Mach 2 E-1B. Enjoy.
  6. Hasegawa 1/72 F-104J

    I know this doesn’t start till next weekend but want to leave this here to remind me Exhibit A - an elderly 2nd hand Hasegawa F-104 Exhibit B - the somewhat basic innards plus a rogue additional set of HobbyBoss decals
  7. A6M3 flaps

    So, I've been working away on the Hasegawa A6M3 Type 22 in 1/72. I managed to grab one of the old school Eduard sets to detail the kit (72-130). It's nothing like a modern zoom kit! Takes a look of work, but looks the part when you get it right. Except, so far, the flaps. This is how the flaps are to be assembled according to the instructions. And these are the parts I have to work with. You're meant to fold one section of the flap and inset into the cut out in the wing. But even before you fold the flap there's a significant gap. I presume you're just meant to leave a section of the wing by the trailing edge with no detail? For reference, here's a more modern flap set by Eduard for a Zero. Any ideas? If I inset the parts in a different order I get a better fit (the gap is mostly due to perspective), but the flap is now a two part piece with a step where the two parts join. I'm baffled by this. Have Eduard just plain got this wrong or am I missing something very obvious?
  8. #20/2017 After the JG54 G-6, here´s right away the next Hasegawa 109. Like with the other, also here Gunze and Tamiya acrylics used, EZ Line for aerials, plastic rods and lead wire for brake lines and cockpit fuel line, decals from RB Productions. Model shows an a/c of Grupul 7/9 Vanatoare in Piestany in January 1945. At that time Romania was already reached by the Red Army and fought along its side against the Germans. So yellow IDs changed to white and crosses to roundels. DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  9. A-4 skyhawk questions ?

    Hello all im in a bit of a confusing spot here ? I have a 1/48th Hasegawa A-4K the “KIWI” version. Its a later square tail that as ive researched was a derivative of The A-4F. Itself an updated “E” if memory and research tell me. My question is im backdating this Skyhawk to an “E” and an early one at that used by the USMC in Vietnam. All the parts are in the kit already so not a lot of work. I know it needs the shorter tailpipe, round tail, no chaff dispenser underneath the tailpipe, & no avionics hump on top, but where i get hung up is Antennae's ? Im not sure the correct antennae's for an early “E” type, nor there placement. Is there a go to website or does anyone here know the answer ? Any help at all is always greatly appreciated. Dennis
  10. #19/2017 Some hype and non-hype about the new Tamiya G-6. My dad will definitely build one but he still has a bunch of good old Hasegawa kits in the stash which have to roll out. So here´s the first one, painted with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, EZ Line for aerials, plastic rods and lead wire for brake lines and cockpit fuel line, decals from the kit and the Kagero book "Bf109G/K Vol.II". The model shows an a/c of IV/JG54 on the eastern front in winter 1943/44. DSC_0003 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0004 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0005 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0006 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0007 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0010 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0011 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0012 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0013 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0014 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0015 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0016 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0017 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0018 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0002 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  11. Hi all, First post in a wee while! Here's what I've been working on - the 1/72 Hasegawa SBD-5 Dauntless with markings courtesy of the old Aeromaster "Royal New Zealand Air Force in WW2" sheet. I've also used the Eduard etch set for the divebrakes - definately NOT designed to be mounted closed!! Hence it looks a bit ropey around the trailing edge of the wing. Hopefully the pics will show up as this is the first time I've used Photobucket! Preferred Imageshack, but they've gone pay only.... Mike.
  12. Eduard next limited edition kit will a 1/32nd Curtiss P-40N Warhawk - ref. 11104 Source: https://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2017-07.pdf V.P.
  13. This is the Hasegawa/Minicraft 1/72 P2V-7 Neptune boxing from 1972 or 1973. I bought this second hand along with the Eduard PE and Mask set for it. Other than adding the PE, this will be an OOB build of the generic post WWII U. S. version in Navy Blue. I am hoping this to be an easy build as I need one after a couple of trying ones. Here is the box art and collection of sprues loose in the box It appears the fuselage halves have been taken off of the sprues and for some reason the locating pins have been sanded flush. I wonder if original owner didn’t realize what they were and thought they were sanding off sprue attachments? So, the prior owner has turned this into a short run kit without locating tabs, wonderful. So work begins with the cockpit. The kit is very basic with 2 seats, a floor and 2 bulkheads. There are also the pilot figures to help jazz it up, but I am totally rubbish at figure painting. So, I am hoping the Eduard PE set will help jazz this area up. I am not sure how much can be seen once the canopies are on, but looks to be very barren inside. First step is to locate the minimal floor console instrument panel and sand the detail down so the Eduard PE part can be attached. Next looking at the seats, there are some quite lovely and large injection marks that need to be dealt with. Next up the base coat of grey for the interior parts including the nose gear bay housing. I tried to come close to the colour on the PE and think it will blend in nice once a weather finish has been applied. A little bit of dirtying up and scuffing . . . Now to work on the PE stuff. There is a little box that sets at the rear of the seats on the rear bulkhead that has to be painted and bent into place. That fuzzy thing above it is the tip of a microbrush to give a sense of scale of this huge item. Why at my advanced age am I doing PE work on a 1/72 plane? I need magnifiers for my magnifier. Onto constructing the two control columns out of the PE. It consists of two pieces, the control column that has to be folded and the circular yoke. I have completed one and you can tell the size by the tweezer tip in the picture. Next up are the rudder pedals. Here is the PE part after painting, but prior to being folded. And here it is all folded up; only 3 more to go, yippee!! And all four looking somewhat uniform Now this is what the kit cockpit would look like if built straight out of the box. (Please ignore the center control PE part and imagine a really crappy, raised, blobby, plastic detail area.) No wonder there were figures to put in here. Otherwise, there would be nothing to see. I put the PE control panel in the starboard fuselage half and it fit quite nicely and jazzes the area up a bit. Now here is where I ran into problems. There are two PE side instrument columns that run between the fuselage wall and the cockpit seats. When I dry fit them, there is not enough room between the seats and the fuselage wall for them to fit. My choices are to cut down the instrument panel and lose some of its detail, or sand down the chunky seats to allow more room for the side control column. I decided on the latter. Did I dry fit prior to installing the seats and begin work on the seat belt placement; of course not. I didn’t get the prudent idea of checking the fit until the seats were firmly in place. So, I pried off the port seat and sanded both sides of it down, trying to not mess up the seat belts. I then placed the seat back and you can compare the size of the sanded seat to the original kit seat. The seat appearance is improved I think. The side console will now fit. I just have to pry up the other side and do that seat too. But, it is time to go to work to pay for my plastic addiction, so I must stop. All comments always welcome.
  14. At the weekend I was tidying out some things I have in storage and sorting through some stash duplicates, I came across this I never realised I had it as this stuff went into store some 5/6 years ago and I had forgotten about quite a few things (Fujimi Wasp, some CMR resin Seafires and a Fairey Delta prototype by Maquette amongst the gems). Looking back at my DH GB experience with the delightful ease of the Tamiya Mosquito against the taxing modelling of the Special Hobby Sea Hornet, I thought this could be a light diversion, with it's hoped 'shake and bake' build compared with the old Airfix kit currently on the go. There are three sprues and a transparency. The plastic isn't brilliantly crisp and there quite a few ejector pins but most seem not to be visible, apart from some on the undercarriage doors. The blue plastic is a nightmare as it is pretty dark. There are transfers for two Gloss Sea Blue options, one Hammy Gray's of the Pacific Fleet and one from an escort carrier of the East Indian Fleet (I think). They have yellowed and so have been popped on the window sill to get sun bleached. instructions are typical Hasegawa.
  15. This is the 3rd or 4th Hasegawa P-3C to be posted here in the last month or so. I am not sure of the reason for this. I would say great minds think alike, but I am not sure where I would fit in . Anyway here is my offering. I a a bit on happy with this build, not the fault of the kit, but related to my spaying. I wanted a nice gloss finish on the white, so I gave it several coats starting with a dry dusting and working up to a a wet heavy final coat with light sanding in between. This has worked fine in the past, but this time I was getting a lot of dust infiltration, and the occasional blob of paint. At one point a fairly large black spec of dust suddenly appeared and in a vain attempt to hide it under more paint I ended up with a drip, (sigh). This meant sanding idown and basically starting over. . I finally decided cut my losses and live with some specs. As far as the kit itself, it is from some pretty old molds and it shows with plenty of flash and raise panel lines, but the fit was good and while I can argue with some of the engineering it went together well and looks good. The decals worked well with virtually no silvering and look good. My only complaint is that they implemented to walkways, "no steps" and other line on the wings in 3 big decals. They were hard to work with and maneuver into position and had large clear areas. When first put down the clear areas severely wrinkled, but with several applications of MicroSol they flattened out. So on to the pictures; I used the Eduard interior, but with the small windows it is hard to see inside. Next up is the equally old Hasegawa OV-1A. Enjoy.
  16. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Hasegawa Mosquito Mk.XIII "Night Fighter" from 29. Squadron, 1945. Released as a "Limited Edition" boxing this summer, the kit contains resin parts for the wing tanks and nose. I added True Details wheels, but forgot to add the White "T" decal for the nose ... sorry. Painted with acrylics from the Gunze/Mr.Hobby range. Photos by Wolfgang Rabel of IGM Cars & Bikes. Greetings from Vienna!
  17. I had this one bought for me from SMW16 as a Christmas present from my Daughter. After a long think and a lot of planning I decided to build her as part of a comparison display between the TU-16, B-47 and Valiant. Ok so after a mornings work on her the B-47E fuselage has been closed up and the gear bays have been glued in. I'll update with photos in due course.
  18. Hi all. Some may say that this is a new build but in truth it's been around for about 18 months sitting on the shelf of inactivity. I've got a Super Hornet that's on the way but I'll post some photos of that when I get something substantial done that's worth showing. It was in separate top and bottom halves and wings yesterday and this is where I've managed to get it to today (Sunday afternoon). I made a jig to get the wings level which has worked well and will come in handy when mounting gear and other dangly bits. The gear bay has had its white though I now realise I didn't clean the mould seam on the o2??? tank,...that one's onto the fix list. I've also removed and replaced the poorly molded strengthening plates around the arrestor work. I've got some work to do to tidy up the wing root join though that's something that a bit Mr Surfacer won't fix. They're an old kit but the Hasegawa F-16's aren't too bad to put together. This one will be loaded with bombs, rockets and other explody things. Cheers. Mick It'll look something hopefully like this though with live weapons and wing tanks too.
  19. Hi peeps, Since I've been redoing all the images in my various BM threads I though I'd add these two old pre-joining BM models: The SEAC Mossie is the Tamiya 1/72 FB Mk VI with, I think, Paragon Designs tropical filters whilst the RAAF one is the Hasegawa Mk VI converted to represent a PR Mk 40 as operating out of the Darwin area in 1944-45. Mike.
  20. After already showing slight withdrawal symptoms, my dad´s gonna build another 109. Using the good old Hasegawa G-6 kit with decals from RB Productions. Doing "Blue 10" but don´t know yet if it´s gonna be a pro-German or Pro-Russian scheme.
  21. My dad´s gonna build a second G-6 besides the Romanian one, using the already initially for the other 109 built up fuselage. According to the Werknummer this one is an Erla built a/c. Selfmade rear cockpit hatch
  22. Hi folks! As a follow on to this thread that I started on the subject, here's the finished result! Humbrol colours used throughout, with DP Casper decals from this set. Very good decals, just be careful how you place them - they stick like limpits! Thanks to the guys to helped me with the colours etc - much appreciated! Constructive comments welcome! Mike.
  23. Here's my latest completion, peeps! It's the 1/72 Hasegawa A6M3 Model 22 kit, with markings from Rising Decals. It depicts an aircraft from the 331st Kokutai during the joint IJA/IJN attack on Calcutta in December 1943, hence the unusual paint scheme. Paints are Humbrol enamels throughout, H75 Bronze Green uppers, H168 Hemp lower surface plus tail and wing tip and H154 Insignia Yellow for the wing ID stripes. I used Humbrol Clear to gloss prior to the decals, then a final spray of Humbrol Satin varnish to dull it down. There's some weathering, but I decided to keep it minimal. I have to give thanks to Nick Millman for giving me some valuable advice on Zero colouring a few years back - thanks Nick! One under the flash: Comments welcome! Mike.
  24. Here's another one for RFI! Hasegawa's 1/72 Mitsubishi Ki-67 Hiryu (AKA Peggy) with markings from Rising Decals and painted with Humbrol throughout. I've had this in the stash for years, so I thought I'd dig it out and build it. One under the camera flash: Here's a clue as to how long I've had the kit: It's still got it's Beatties price sticker on it!! Comments welcome, Mike.
  25. Hi peeps, Here's my latest completion; Hasegawa's new tool 1/700 light cruiser Tenryu in it's late 1942 configuration. As is normal for my IJN builds no PE has been used. Paint is Humbrol 27 for the dark grey, Humbrol 160 for the waterline red brown with Sovereign Colourcoats IJN Linoleum for the ship's decks and IJN Deck Tan for the boat decks. Some minor rusting on the hull sides has been added using Humbrol 113. All in all this is a very nice little kit which builds up quite easily though a touch of filler is needed around the steel deck area on the bow. Mike.
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