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  1. This was a kit I finished last year for a GB. I have been learning how to paint figures so I decided to add a base, some extra stowage and a couple of men. The figures were from a Miniart set, which although not well moulded, they have decent enough poses and paint reasonably well. The base is from Reality In Scale and is well made. Very porous so needs a lot of primer. It would have been better if I had followed their instructions and given it a good coating of PVA. I also got a new camera phone so have been playing around with that. Apologies for some blurring etc.๐Ÿ‘ Thanks for viewing and all the best.
  2. I had one Dragon JagdTiger kit remaining, it's a shame to leave it in the stash, it's been there since 2005. This boxing was released in the 39-45 series and along with the standard kit plastic it contained an aluminium barrel, some p/e for the engine grill mesh covers and tool holders but the best addition back then was the addition of individual 'magic track' links. Not workable but the next best thing, each link is a friction fit with the next one, so assemble to shape and then run some thin glue into the joints and then they can be painted. I will be building it as this end of war JagdTiger with all the last updates that these machines received, ribbed front mudguards, extra track hooks and hoist 'pilze' welded centrally to to each edge of the roof.
  3. I bought this kit of the Porsche suspensioned JagdTiger (Hunting Tiger) in 2009. The model is a version of the JagdTiger that was an attempt to make a simpler and cheaper version of this huge tank killing machine (78 tons) that was armed with a 12.8cm PaK 44 gun. This suspension system used eight pivoting rocking arm suspension units attached to the sides of the hull, much like the system utilised on the Ferdinand/Elephant tank hunters. There were problems with the system handling the weight off road and, during tight turning manoeuvres the suspension units were liable to break off. In the end, the tank hunter variant was made using the same internal, torsion bar suspension system as the King Tiger, this version was popularly known as the Henschel variant. The number of JagdTigers built with the Porsche suspension system was quite low, depending on the reference material, different numbers are given, the book that I have (Ryton Publications) cites only 4 were built using the Porsche system (Wikipedia cites 11) and 77 with the Henschel suspension system. Most of these Porsche type JagdTigers were built when zimmerit anti-magnetic mine coating was being applied so I obtained a set of Atak zimmerit to add to my kit, most photos only show this version in training units painted in overall grey, however, there is one photo showing a camouflaged, non-zimmerit covered JagdTiger so that's how I will build my kit. The kit contents are still bagged up, the 6 sprues of tracks would be hard work to clean up and assemble so I have got a set of T-Rex 3D printed tracks to replace them with. There is a small fret of p/e for tool clamps and an aluminium turned barrel. I've assembled a short length of track to ensure it fits the drive sprockets. Having 5 parts to each paired link it's a slow, fiddley assembly but it looks a lot better than the kit parts. Everything is all ready for the start of the STGB, roll on the 30th of March. Any questions or comments are always welcome.
  4. I've had this Dragon kit for quite a few years in the stash. The box art and description label it as an Ardennes 1944 KT with new pattern tracks, These new pattern tracks did not get fitted to any KT's before 1945 and I cannot see any photos of the Ardennes offensive KT's with them or the 18 tooth sprockets that they required. The kit tracks require removing from sprues and each link has 3 ejector pin marks that need filling, they are rather clunky in appearance compared to photos of the real track links so I have obtained a set of T-Rex 3D printed tracks to replace them and my build will have some of the other features of these late production tanks that left the assembly plant in March 1945. First the kit, originally released in 2006 with some new parts, single link tracks and some Ardennes Panzer Grenadier figures and weapons. As can be seen, the kit parts are still all bagged up, retaining that 2006 freshness. Although the kit features a turned aluminium barrel the muzzle brake has to be cut off the plastic barrel halves and attached so I have replaced it with a RB one with turned brass muzzle brake. Other bits and pieces to improve the kit are some p/e by ET Models and Voyager, and some 3D printed tools and clamps by Eduard. The tracks were a major part of this build so I ordered a set from T-Rex, they are beautifully printed and easy to assemble with two resin pins attaching each link to the other. T-Rex also make 18 tooth sprockets and a rear idlers, both 3D printed for this version along with a late turret cupola but the cost was above what I could afford as well as buying the set of tracks, so on their arrival I checked they fitted the kit parts by assembling a couple of track lengths, thankfully they they fit very well and they can wrap around the kit sprocket, I've had kit supplied tracks that do not fit as well as these do. I'll show the other bits as the build progresses. All is ready now for the STGB to start at the end of the month. Any questions or comments are welcome.
  5. Having recently finished building RFMโ€™s Pz.IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Pz.IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another of their 1/35 armour kits. This year Iโ€™ve not started another softskin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking Iโ€™m building a Tamya kit๐Ÿ˜‰ As the end of last year was all about Pz.IV. Jโ€™s for me, this year Iโ€™m maxing out on StuGโ€™s. Over the last few months, Iโ€™ve almost finished Dragonโ€™s lovely StuG III Ausf F8 kit which will be based on an Italian campaign vehicle. I have a few decent period images which capture some nice features. I also โ€˜blitzedโ€™ through Takomโ€™s StuG III Ausf G (Early). This was built straight out of the box with no intention of losing any sleep over it's many inaccuracies. So, as Iโ€™m slowly getting to know my way around a Pz.III chassis and some of the later StuG variants, I figured why not check out one of RFMโ€™s StuG's. This is their Ausf G late kit and itโ€™s a belter. Iโ€™ve read there are a few issues with some small features (what kit doesnโ€™t) but they are minimal and nothing that cannot be easily remedied. According to those in the know on ML, it is the perfect base kit that requires very little extra work to portray a decent Alkett built last production Ausf G. This kit is the non interior 2022 released kit 5086 and you can build a StuG III or a StuH42. RFM 5086 info It includes both Alkett and MIAG track guards as it incorporates sprues from their Pz.III as well as from previous StuG kits. The tracks are RFMโ€™s own individual links which incorporates a jig to complete small runs, speeding up construction. There is no turned metal barrel, but the one-piece slide moulded one is easy to clean up. There are two frets of photoetch. The largest covers the Schurzen plates. The wheels incorporate poly caps which I personally like and fit nice and snug just like on many a Tamiya kit. Iโ€™m not going to do an SBS, (Iโ€™m already up to my eyeballs in a few of those already) so will just log progress through the build. The lower hull is of flatpack design and fits together perfectly. The torsion bars can be made workable or you can simply glue the ends onto the lower hull. There is even an option to build adjustable shock absorbers (dampers). Your choice. When it comes to the bow armour the StuG went through quite a few production design changes in this area. Unlike another certain Chinese manufacturer I could mention, the correct parts are called out, even though there are several other variant parts available on the sprues. The running gear lines up really nicely as does all the features on the rear plate. The interlocking bow plate portion which would be partly visible just forward of each sprocket plate on each lower hull side plate stranglely isn't moulded on. I chiselled out the feature and added the welding marks. The transmission plate is just dry fitted in the image below. One of the oddities in the kit is RFMโ€™s choice of tracks. The open guide horn type was seen on StuGโ€™s III's, just not many have been photographed on these late production vehicles. A period image that captured my attention had the more common type seen on these variants and as I had a 3D set of T-Rex links, I figured these were the ones to go for. That decision wasnโ€™t one of my best! Unlike three previous sets which I had a blast with, these were a right PITA. They definitely were not from the same batch as my previous sets as the material was far more brittle. I even had some links break which hasn't happened before! On top of that the pins did not appear to exhibit any taper and a large percentage were already damaged in their small bags! TBH I though of contacting the seller but figured I should as least see if I can build up two complete runs first. I did, but only just and the pins were falling out as quick as I popped them back in๐Ÿคฌ In the end after a few choice words and a few strong shandies, I brush painted over the pin ends on the links with Vallejo grey primer. This seemed to solve the issue but I then found the links were a tight fit over the sprocket and I don't trust them to take much more handling! After all this track building agro I have decided to give the kit tracks a go. Also, as RFM only offer the earlier style round tow cable clamps, I ordered the correct square aftermarket Alkett factory produced ones from Panzerwerk Design Alkett late tow cable brackets. Whilst postage is way in excess of their cost, I also plumped for some of their Type 6B tracks Pz.III & IV type 6B links at the same time. Their tracks look good and have favourable reviews, so I will build them up when they come and choose whether they trump the kit tracks later in the build. As it would give the option to display the vehicle on uneven ground I opted to utilise the kit's adjustable torsion bar set up which will work with the optional moveable damper units. Due to the kit's engineering in this area the adjusable torsion bars naturaly allow the wheels to lift over obstacles, and the moveable damper units equally compress, but they do not naturally rebound. This effect is visible in the first image below. The first and last front bogie wheels are slightly effected by the track tension and are pulled a little higher than they would normally sit on level ground. If positioned on uneven ground they can always be fixed, so itโ€™s nice to have this option. The T-Rex tracks do look the business but this set was far from perfect. The track tension on the other side is a touch loser on the image below so all the bogie wheels sit nice and level. One construction fix which was pointed out to me by a fellow modeller is to do with two strengthening ribs (parts D13 & D14) which you are instructed to add to the undersides of the gun box in step 13. What they do in essence is create a channel which allows the gun box to align squarely onto both of the thin lower hull side plates. The problem is, that they only need the fixing to be off a fraction and the channel will become too narrow and will interfere with what should be a simple slot down on to the lower hull sides. To remedy this potential fit issue, you just need attach the parts directly to the lower hull instead. There are slots in the lower hull side plates too, so itโ€™s a really simple fix. The lower hull interior includes a fighting compartment floor to which the gun cradle fixing mount is attached. Only the inner two of the four spars that fit between the lower hull back plate to the extension over the exhausts featured on these late production vehicles. It is not an issue to fit them as instructed as they are not visible (unless you are an IPMS/USA judge) ๐Ÿซฃ and the extension rear plate you fit has the correct bolt head detail for just the two inner ones that remained. In step 15 you get to choose your gun type and unlike any previous manufacturer's releases, each gets its own breech and cradle parts and construction steps. It is worth mentioning that in step 19 it is not at all clear in which order you attach your breech sub-assembly, gun box, lower hull and mantlet all together! Iโ€™m sure there are a few ways that folks have managed to do this successfully, but it is not at all obvious and quite a conundrum to figure out. Breech assembly with added weld detail on the recuperator and an aftermarket barrel. I incorporated the kit's spring so I can leave it adjustable to ensure I end up with the correct length of visible barrel outside of the mantlet. The full breech sub-assembly with the mantlet and muzzle brake dry fitted. Iโ€™m currently building up the engine deck which comes as a separate moulding but Iโ€™m not going to attach all the parts permanently until I pick some aftermarket stowage. Can anybody confirm whether aftermarket resin StuG engine deck stowage parts fix over the armoured hatches or directly to an unpopulated deck? Engine deck, armoured engine hatches and gun box roof still dry fitted. Progress so far The radio operators add on armour plate extension in the kit is of the early Ausf G design and does not feature the extra portion that curves down to match the contours of the inner plate. I shaped a similar thickness piece of grey styrene to fit but I believe many builders have found the correct item amongst Dragon StuG kit spare parts.
  6. Starting with a new one - this time it is Panzer III by Dragon. The kit I'm using is artillery observer tank Panzerbeobachtungswagen III but I'll build it into a regular Panzer III Ausf.G, as all the bits are supposedly in there. The turret shell is the only exception, but it'll be not too hard to convert. I have Voyager PE set and fenders to add as well as Aber barrels for the main gun an for MG's and a set of MasterClub metal tracks. I like Dragon's Pz.III based kits for their accuracy and crisp details and this one is up to that too. It's going together really fast at this stage and no hardships to report thus far. Cheers! Kristjan
  7. There are 4 model kits on my table, 3x Dragon/Testors and one from Tamiya in 1:48 scale. There is a lot of literature as a source, but be careful, who copied from whom, who copied from whom - it is impossible to find out. The fact is, only one drawing is correct and also matches the very good model from Tamiya. This new construction item will take longer, there are many things to discuss and show in order to conjure up a true-to-original model. So - patience, things are moving forward. A single Dragon component is the benchmark for this construction report. Since I can't throw old models in the trash, it's better to figure out how to fix the Dragon models. I have decided to build all four He-162 kits and give them unusual liveries and markings - without resorting to "what if". I can recommend the following titles as useful sources: Engl./Czech, with many picture (SW/ Color)
  8. "End Of The Road". I finally finished off this beast. A more ambitious project and also a fun one with a lot of learning new things, zimmerit, base and a figure for starters. I added the FoG base and a Wolf figure, with other bits and pieces, to make more of a vignette out of it. Cheers for viewing and for any that followed along with the WIP. Have a great rest of your weekend.๐Ÿ‘
  9. Hi! Got over the finish line with this one. Build log is here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235131913-kettenkrad/ Here are the photos: Cheers! Kristjan
  10. All hello! I will build the British heavy tank.
  11. I read on twitter a few days ago that its a tradition to start a new model build on New Years Day, which brings good luck for the year. Who am I to argue? Just received this past week, Dragon's new M142 High Mobility Artillery Rocket System, known as HIMARS. The HIMARS has become quite famous over the past year and a half, with the US donating several to Ukraine after russias illegal invasion. Operating in the summer of '22, their precision strikes have been successful at taking out key targets. Ukraine has continued to receive more units, with a total of 39 HIMARS delivered/pledged as of now. Dragon's kit looks to be a bit basic, but detailed. Windows are molded in, so theres no interior. Makes it easier for me. Axles are brass, which is nice. Parts are now getting washed, with building to start this evening.
  12. Here's my latest completion, the Dragon 1/32 Bf110D-3 (or D-0 as listed in the gruppe paperwork), it is marked as one of the aircraft used by Erprobungsgruppe 210 in the summer of 1940. ... and a whitewall tyred tailwheel. I'm not sure if it was prototypical, there aren't many pictures of the original aircraft but it does look like there might be one and it was reasonably common: I used the same aftermarket as for my recent Bf110c-6 (apart from the AIMS conversion set obviously). Paints were Colourcoats ACLW12 - RLM Grau (RLM 02) for the interiors, ACLW03 - Hellblau (RLM 65) for the undersides and the top surface camo was ACLW11 - Dunkelgrun (RLM71) and ACLW12 - RLM Grau (RLM 02) - again it's hard to be sure from photographs but the D-0's of Epr.Gr.210 look to have quite a soft demarcation so may have been repainted at unit level. The blue on the prop spinners was a mix of Citadel acrylic blues mixed as close as I could to the blue on the aircraft code letter. Markings were a mixture of decals from the Revell re-pop of the kit and the squadron markings were from the Kagero Battle of Britain decal set kindly donated by our late forum-buddy Silver Fox. Thanks for dropping by Cheers, Stew
  13. This is the dragon kit in the markings of green 3 + -- flown by obfw. Josof Keil. Who was the only ta 152 ace. Dragon kit ( lower wing rescribed for ta 152 h-0 panels, and also below cockpit starboard side panel) Fine moulds brass pitot tube. Brass tube for mg 151 gun barrels. Fusion propeller and radiator. Aires cockpit, Barracuda studios wheels. Eagle cals 48134. Thank you for looking.
  14. This is the new old one on my bench - Dragon 6128 Kettenkrad. I started the thing actually more than 10 years ago and it seemed a great kit at the time. It found its way to shelf of doom though because I found out Dragon got the sprocket totally wrong and I hadn't any means to fix the issue then. Well, T-Rex Studio released a correct sprocket lately, so I decided to get it going again. Tamiya of course has released a much better Kettenkrad a few years back, but oh well, as I've already put some effort in this one, I'll be a gentleman and get it to the decent end. Much of the work has been done with the engine and the transmission so far. Also the handrails has been replaced. To add to the kit I also have the Eduard PE set and the T-Rex Studio 3D-printed front fork, and some decals too by Passion Models. Here's the little bugger: Cheers! Kristjan
  15. So yesterday it was a Ta154 (https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235128710-focke-wulf-ta-154/#comment-4742016) - and today it's time for a Ta152.. I can't see myself building any more of these, as I'm literally running out of viable schemes - and there weren't that many to start with. Anyway, this is 'black 3' of Stabschwarm III./JG 301, one of the aircraft identified in Axel Urbanke's recent research into Ta152 operations. No pics of black 3 are known to exist, so we're just guessing here. I've basically drawn from features of the other known pics of Ta152s and combined them into one. In previous builds I've painted the gear legs RLM02, or 66, so this time they are in red primer (I told you I was running out of ideas). Markings all painted/masked on - apart from the random WNr. Painting the yellow bar was fun..
  16. Hi All, My fourth completed build, this was a side project to my double carrier project which ive done a bit on here and there. The kit it self went together easily enough, it has a few issues, the prop blades are too thick and its missing a few detail on the hull but nothing really major. I painted it in colours I think roughly matching a museum ship of the class in Germany. Used Humbrol 164 for the lower hull and Sovereign hobbies Dunklegrau 51 for the uppers. Gave her an overall wash with dark grey enamels and dirty white spirit and then pin washed her with very dark gray/black to pick our the 'openings'. Im not convinced on overall washes, albeit it with oils may be better but were she not a sub I'd of kept her clean. I have very odd views on what should and shouldn't be weather I think, subs yes, surface ships, no. I replaced some of the antenna etc with sections from a master barrels yard arm set and made a grill from spare etch to replace the plastic part which was solid. I left the tube doors open one side and closed the other, the closed option doesn't actually fit quite right so in hindsight would have left them as open, All in all I'm happy with her but a little disappointed with the brush marks of the matt coat which was Windsor and Newton galleria. I think I applied it too thickly tbf so next time I'll airbrush it I think, if found that as soon its started to dry you can do nothing about it, try washing it off and it ruins it, try reworking it with a little more on the brush and likewise causes issues, idk maybe user error. I think they're great looking little subs over all and at some point id be tempted by a larger kit of one but for now im happy with this little lass, Thanks for looking, Sam Edit - couple more pics with her cousin the Type VII C, Just to prove perspective is everything, the Tpe XXI is a bit larger Cheers, Sam
  17. Hobby 2000 from Poland (link) is to rebox the 1/72nd Heinkel He.219 Uhu kit from Dragon Models. - ref. 72067 - Heinkel He.219 A-0 Uhu https://ksmodel.pl/sklep/szczegoly/hobby-2000-72067-heinkel-he-219-a-0-limited-edition-1-72-27462/ - ref. 72068 - Heinkel He.219 A-2 Uhu https://ksmodel.pl/sklep/szczegoly/hobby-2000-72068-heinkel-he-219-a-2-limited-edition-1-72-27463/ V.P.
  18. As I am near to finishing my detour build of a 'wingy thing' here if you're interested. At the end of the T23 Frigate build, I asked a 'What should I build next?', so here I am. I'll build both T42 batch 2 & 3 destroyers using the appropriate Dragon kits in 1/700. The T42 Batch 2. Unfortunately this boxing doesn't come with any PE, so... I had to acquire WEM PE from Atlantic Models. T42 Batch 3 boxing with PE. Stuart
  19. I bought this a few months ago on a whim, (basically the price was really good), so I thought I'd crack on with it, because it is a big, complex kit. Due to a lack of photographic evidence I can play around with it without getting too concerned about overall accuracy and just have fun with it, colouring, detailing and weathering wise. It comes in a big box with some great cover art. This is the version Night Shift did and his videos on it are great. Full of great ideas and top tips. I won't do the obligatory sprue shot, but needless to say there are plenty of them. It's a lot of kit. But everything is in there so I won't need any aftermarket. Plus I have some spare stuff from my Sturmtiger builds just in case. I bought some decals ages ago. I think F05 will be my choice. Cheers all.๐Ÿ‘
  20. Here is my recently completed HMS Sheffield using the 1/700 Dragon/ Cyber-hobby kit. Built mainly OOB with a couple of corrections and was an experience to use 1/700 PE that was included in the kit. Paints were from Colourcoats, kit decals and was depicted in her final scheme before her demise during the Falklands Conflict. Build log here: Stuart
  21. Hello folks I had the last time very little time for the hobby, but in small steps it goes back to the workbench. Unfortunately I could not finish the Halftruck GB, so here in the WIP for all interested at first a small summary of the work on the M3 so far. My idea to convert it into an ambulance has given me a bigger task and as so often the work took no end. If you decide for an OOB build, the kit makes no problems, but if PE parts are used (eg Voyager), a lot of surgery is required. Once again, I find that a halftruck is much more work than a tank or truck. Here you have a mixture of both, which increases the amount of detail. If you then want to show the interior and engine, it does not get easier. As far as the painting is concerned, you have to see exactly when, where and how you paint or glue together. Otherwise you will have more work later. I hope you like the model so far. MD The object of desire ๐Ÿ˜ Ready to go! The engine is not well detailed and important parts are missing. Wheels can not be shown turned in, I have changed that. Cast on springs... ...better ๐Ÿ˜ Work for the saw... The PE parts were not usable, so I use the kit parts. The fighting room must be rebuilt. Seats out, stretchers in. The new base. Since the ambulances were troop conversions, there are very few pictures of the interior-plus each vehicle varies in its design. Checker plates for the floor. The previously removed seats are reused. The new interior with seats, boxes and supports for 3 stretchers. The next step is the engine. A distributor is needed... Generator, starter, fuel pump, ignition coil, etc. are rebuilt. The splashboard of the engine compartment is not correct. done To simplify the subsequent painting, I have changed the model and created individual assemblies. To do this, you have to work very carefully and check everything again and again by test fits. The cooler also fits ๐Ÿ˜… Some parts had to be rebuilt to reproduce the engine halfway reasonably There is also an alternative engine kit from Plus Models, but I preferred to rely on my references and also saved money. Everything fits together well and can also be disassembled again. The shifters were rebuilt with wire-the geometry from the kit was not correct. The fins of the radiator armor was newly created from plastic card. New, more stable axles were installed. Missing strengthening ribs and holes were added. New tailgate latch, taillights drilled out and reinserted, and a storage rack for luggage. Trial fit of the engine hood. The engine gets its base color. And again a trial fit, lamps are also installed. The complete engine is painted and weathered. The painting would otherwise not be possible later without the removable front. The result after 40 hours of work... My template for comparison See you!
  22. Hey Everyone. I'm new here to the forums on BM, but I've been referencing others great works here for years now. Britmodeller has always been one of my go to's for ideas. Great works here. I've been modeling on and off since I was about 6 and primarily focus on WW2 AFV, but have also dabbled in Naval vessels and submarines. Like many, I am a sucker for most German WW2 AFV. The colors. The engineering. In any case, I thought it was about time to start sharing some works of mine. I have loads, but this one I just recently finished on the bench and had some fun with it. The Panther G is such a beautifully sculpted vehicle. It's hard to imagine it as anything other than the most iconic side shot of a tank. It's a late war Panther G Command. Not historically accurate to say the least, but I liked the lighter shade 2 tone camo on this one and had some fun with the weathering and a few added goodies. The command figure is my first attempt at adding a figure to my work and like others, not very skilled at it just yet. But, adding a figure definitely adds to the final result of the tank for sure and I hope to get better at it as I continue to build. Periscopes are missing because I can't find them for some reason, but getting a new set to put in. No worries. Metal tracks. A few added parts. I usually always paint with Tamiya paints. Finish with some enamel washes, powders, and oils. I kept the weathering minimal as I like the tonal colors so much, I didn't want to cover it up. I think the German wool blankets were the hardest part for me. Ironic how hard it is to paint a straight line. Other than that, pretty much out of the box. Nothing over the top. Hope you like it. Cheers.
  23. Finally made a start. ๐Ÿ˜„ Cockpit painted and ready to assemble to fuselage.
  24. After a very long break, Iโ€™m finally getting back to completing the Dragon 1/72 Jagdtiger. This was originally started as part of a group build back in 2019 but life got in the way. Thereโ€™s a lot of photos documenting the build in the completed group builds section - I guess Iโ€™m going to be about four years late for the GB but perhaps another one will come along before I finish this little beast?! I restarted working on this a couple of weeks ago - I had problems with the Dragon tracks being too short, which looked unrealistic and they were so tight that they snapped the drive sprockets off. I made new axles from brass rod and spliced in some of the spare tracks from the kit. One side is complete apart from track painting. I also added the decals, gave it a coat of Matt varnish and started the weathering process. Iโ€™m going to go easy on this - from what I have read, most JTs saw very little action. Photos from 2019 - Dragon 1/72 kit plus PE from ET Model. And now in 2023, showing recent progress. The kit suffered a bit of minor damage in storage, so some repairs and touching up of previous work is required. The replacement front axle from brass rod. The grey area is the spliced in styrene spare track links. Some of these have been painted and hung on the hooks that I added. More updates to follow - thanks for looking, Andrew
  25. I thought I might try a new challenge and go down from the big scale of 1/72 to 1/144. So I dug out this Dragon Tornado from the attic. They do a weird cockpit with Mr Blobby crew, so the whole cockpit and ejector seats had to be scratch built. I have to say 1/144 is a very unforgiving scale! Too tall nose wheel or skew whif pylons are all too easy errors to make. The canopy was not all that good so had to use filler to fair it into the spine. Anyhow tell me what you think? You might recognise the 56(F) Squadron markings It's an old scratch built RAF hanger in the background and an Oxford Diecast landrover Andrew
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