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  1. Sure this must have been covered before but search does not bring anything up ? Any hints or tips on building this vacform ? Just picked one up cheap and want to give a go. Especially interested in how the undercarriage is supposed to fit ? Thanks Paul
  2. Good afternoon all! Finally. Finally I have completed this build, as I am sure many of you know the old Airfix Vulcan kit is in need of a re-tool and in its current state it requires A LOT of work! So, shall we begin? Kit: -Airfix Avro Vuclan 1:72 Aftermarket: -White Ensign Model (WEM) Interior -WEM Bomb Bay -WEM Exterior (airbrakes, landing gear PE inserts) -Freightdog Exhausts Scratchuilt Items: -ECM bay -Interior of canopy (although I forgot to photograph this, it has a bulkhead built in with some texturing added to the interior) Paints: -Vallejo Model Air (the majority of paints were mixed to obtain the required colours) Weathering: -Vallejo panel wash -AK Interactive engine oil wash *Edit: Decals: -Freightdog- RAF Neptunes and Avro Vulcans WIP here, if you want: Click Here Picture time! (Don't worry I do not support the politics of East Germany! I just have obsession with Cold War history! ) Thanks for stopping by! Kind regards, Sam
  3. Evening all! It’s taken two years of on-and-off work, but I’ve finally finished my Airfix 1:72 Vulcan! The Vulcan has been my favourite aircraft since being wowed by the Duxford aircraft as a child, so without it sounding trite i tried really hard at this kit. Still, I am unbelievably glad to see the back of this, a really very strenuous build which required quite a lot of willpower to get through. Much whisky has been consumed and much filler dust produced! I used the following aftermarket stuff: · Wolfpack resin intakes and engine faces · Wolfpack resin undercarriage bay set · Master turned aluminium NATO refuelling probe tip · Fündekals Vulcan set for XM605 of 101 squadron RAF c.1977-8 · CMK resin Canberra PR9 ejector seats (they’re close enough through that tiny canopy!) I also did quite a lot of other mods: · Full rescribe including quite a lot of added panel lines and inspection panels, and correction of the lines around the nose radome. · Rear crew seats from the Airfix Valiant (though you need a torch and a dentist’s mirror to see them) · Scratchbuilt ladder, retraction jacks and interior around the inside of the door · Brake and other undercarriage hydraulic lines from wire. Thinned out the u/c scissor links and added several other details from plasticard. · Replaced pitot heads and aerials from plasticard stock, added several other details such as a tail bumper. · Lined exhausts with brass tube to approx. 4 inches deep, and used kit engine faces as exhaust faces at the ends of them. · Drilled out most of the small exhausts and intakes, and lined the four protruding heat exchanger things under the engine areas so they weren't see-through. · Thinned out the splitter plates at the inboard edges of the intakes with files, sandpaper and anger. It’s a mixture of rattlecan and brush finishing – the Humbrol 165 Medium Sea Grey was straight from the can, but the Dark Green (Revell Aqua 68) and the Light Aircraft Grey (Humbrol 166) were brushed on, as was the flat coat (also Revell Aqua). References include trips to XM594 at Newark and XM598 at Cosford, as well as the excellent BM walkaround threads here and here, and the magnificent "Vulcan B Mk.2 from a different angle" by Craig Bulman, and "Vulcan" by Ken Ellis and Duncan Cubitt. WIP is here although I've done more comprehensive WIPs in my time. Anyway, I'm very happy to move on but I’m pretty pleased with this one. Hope you enjoy it too! Addendum: I learnt loads for this build from surveying previous BM builds, so it’s only fair if I summarise some of my advice for taking on this beast of a kit: · The Wolfpack intakes and undercarriage bays are SERIOUSLY worth it if you can find them. They’re the most trouble-free resin add-ons I’ve ever used, very accurate and detailed, and fit pretty much perfectly if you are careful removing the kit undercarriage bays. The intake parts have one slight niggle, in that they are drop-in replacements for the kit parts and locate using the same hole on the underside, which fits a pin on the lower wing half. If fitted as per instructions, there’s about a 0.5mm gap between the intake lips on the kit and the front edge of the resin. I supported them slightly further forward with plasticard stock, and solved the problem.. · When sticking the kit together I recommend you join the three wing/fuselage sections of each half, then join two huge halves later, rather than the instructions' approach. That way the gaps are relocated to the fuselage sides and wing leading edges,rather than being large steps between inner and outer wing sections, which are very difficult to deal with. · The Fundekals sheet is the best Vulcan sheet by a country mile, and the only one to correctly depict the badge for 101 Squadron (the Airdecal offering is 50% too big and the colours are too dull!). It has only one fault which is that the fuselage roundels are about 2mm too small in diameter. This very much notices on the finished model, so replace from other sources. The Cartograf sheet for XH558 provided by Airfix in the recent boxings works perfectly.
  4. Excellent, well researched, deep enough but not too intense to be enjoyable. A very good book about aeroplanes. And who doesn't like a good book about aeroplanes?
  5. Hi, I'm making an Airfix Avro Vulcan but I'd like to make it as if it was still in active service, not as a display aircraft (like it is in the set) So does anyone know what the uniform would of been like for the pilots, how many were there and Humbrol colours to paint the unuiform. Many thanks, PlasticSoldier
  6. Hi guys West Middlesex Model Club was contacted recently asking if someone could build an Airfix Vulcan for a guy who used to be a flight engineer on these before the Black Buck missions. He had been bought the kit many years ago and he has never got round to it. For some crazy reason I put my hand up and volunteered. I must be a glutton for punishment and it has been maybe 20 years since I last had a go at one of these. I will probably end up rescribing the beast as the horrible raised details will not survive the clean up required. I know this kit has many issues quality and accuracy wise which I am not fussed about. Really looking forward to a quick build and getting to the paint stage which I am looking forward to. Hopefully I can do a good job on this. Looking to mount on a wooden base at the end. I will need to do some research for a hard stand concrete base replica thing to mount to the wooden base. It could be interesting finding one big enough. Childhoodmemories. IMAG1442 by Mark Inman, on Flickr Here is where things are so far. IMAG1443 by Mark Inman, on Flickr Not much left in the box. IMAG1444 by Mark Inman, on Flickr Filling and sanding in easily accessible areas. IMAG1445 by Mark Inman, on Flickr
  7. Pitot and Refuelling Probes 1:32/1:48/1:72/1:144 Master Having released the Sukhoi collection, Master Models have also recently released several sets for Western aircraft, with particular emphasis on the three V Bombers in both 1:72 and 1:144. [AM-32-090] – This pack contains two parts to build up the pitot probe and fairing for the Italeri 1:32 Mirage II. Rather than brass, the two parts have been turned in alluminium and is a simple direct replacement for the kit part. [AM-48-118] – Another simple replacement pitot probe, this time for the Airfix 1:48 BAC TSR-2, it may have been along time in coming, but it is, nevertheless, a very welcome addition. [AM-72-097/AM-144-009] – These two sets have been designed for the Airfix 1:72 and any of the 1:144 kits from the likes of Micro-Mir, Anigrand or Welsh Models. Each set contains two very fine pitot probes to replace the slightly clunky kit items. [AM-72-098/AM-144-010] – These sets contain only one item, the prominent refuelling probe. The 1:72 for he Airfix kit and the 1:144 for either the Anigrand or Great Wall Hobby kits. Unfortunately even though they are meant to be different scales the review samples re exactly he same size, so do check when you buy your 1:144 as it would be absolutely massive when compared to even the kit part. In each case though, you will need to cut the kit part where it joins the nose fairing, drill out the hole then fit the metal part before adding to the model. [AM-72-099/AM-144-011] – The last of the V bomber sets is naturally for the Victor, either the Matchbox/Revell 1:72 kit or the Anigrand/Welsh Models kits. Whilst he 1:72 set contains the two wing tip mounted pitot probes and the probe end piece for the refuelling probe, the 1:144 set does provide the whole refuelling probe as well as the pitot probes. Conclusion Five more very useful additions to the Master Models range. If you thought the 1:72 scale stuff was small, you really should check out the 1:144 scale parts. I would love to know how they produce such small items, with such finesse of detail. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  8. Good morning! The postman dropped off the photo-etch pieces this morning so I thought I might as well start So, the base kit will be the old Airfix 1:72 Avro Vulcan, with aftermarket bits including: -Freightdog Resin 201 Series Tailpipes -White Ensign Models (WEM) Vulcan Interior -WEM Vulcan Exterior -WEM Vulcan Bomb Bay This build will be significant for two reasons; first of all, with AS exams starting in two weeks and proceeding over the next couple of months, it will be something to keep me sane! Secondly, it will be the first build where I've already had a go at doing some build-enhancing techniques before and needless to say I shall attempt to use these on this build, these include: using filler to get rid of those nasty gaps, using a scribing tool (Tamiya) to replace the notorious raised panel lines, working with resin aftermarket pieces and finally working with photoetch (I might have thrown myself into the deep end with this one!) XL360 is my second nearest Vulcan, the closest being Cosford, I have chosen this one because it's preserved (and has served) as a 617 "Dambusters" aircraft, I have also had the pleasure of sitting in the rear cockpit of the aircraft- I therefore have quite a bit of reference material to hand and finally because, unlike the shiny Cosford example, the Coventry Vulcan allows me to have a shot at weathering. Pre-build photos: Well, more updates shall follow in due course, don't expect them to be too frequent, unfortunately revision must take precedence over the next few weeks. Kind regards, Sam
  9. Started the build of my 1/72 Vulcan bomber last Satarday and i have to be honest it didnt go as badly as i thought.From the threads i read on britmodelers i thought nothing is going to fit,But apart from under the tail section all went fairly simple . A few moments reared there ugly head during the wings to body part of the build with only some small gaps in the wings .the intakes i was dreading as so much had been said that they were a bad fit ,dry fitted them and they went together ok ,as my mind played tricks on me i thought i had done something wrong but hey ho striaght in .A bit of tinkering and sanding seen the rear section go together but needed a fair amount of filler to get it into place and looking half decent. Iv decide to go for the smooth look as its going to go from the ceiling so ditched the wheels and access ladders.Cant understand why the model came with the missile and wing racks as i can remember XH558 ever being fitted with these(someone will put me right no doubt) So its just about ready to paint more than likely going to find loads of scratch marks and so on ,so its off to the car repair shop for some wet n dry paper and some stopper.Painting will be by rattle cans as the medication i take leaves me shaking like a freezing camel. https://www.flickr.com/gp/91786914@N08/dN7b4i https://www.flickr.com/gp/91786914@N08/Ke782p https://www.flickr.com/gp/91786914@N08/88kR49 https://www.flickr.com/gp/91786914@N08/6c2Ejc https://www.flickr.com/gp/91786914@N08/i248W6 40 plus years since i have made a model and the models themselves havent changed really,except im a lot older and have to concentrate a lot harder.I,ll post the finished result next week hopefully if it all goes ok. OF ALL THE THINGS IN LIFE IV LOST ,ONLY MY MIND NEEDS TO BE FOUND.
  10. Hi A couple of builds I started back in 2014 and struggled to finish until recently. Sorry for the photo quality, just have phone today. The first is Jaguar XX965. It's the Italeri kit with decals from a Hasegawa boxing and a Model Master pitot. I've seen this plane a few times at Cosford and love the yellow on black. This was very early on in learning to use an airbrush, sadly some of the paint came out a bit rough, but I certainly learnt from it. The second is Vulcan XH558 (the airfix kit, but built OOB without the corrections to make it a proper XH558). Again, the painting was a stuggle on this, I must have repainted the whole thing nearly a dozen times before settling. The grey is a little darker than usual, but it does resemble some of the photos I've taken of her inflight (on dull days) over the past few years. Steve
  11. Good morning, I just thought I might ask the advice and opinions of members of the forum in regards to a project i'm starting. I was thinking of doing a 1:72 Airfix Vulcan "properly"; with aftermarket engines, intakes (possibly, you'll see later) and the white ensign model (WEM) stuff. I've also thought it might be an appropriate model to do some rescribing for the first time, along with flory washes, photo etch and resin- I had to choose this model So the few questions I would like to ask are as follows: 1. Can you use a steel ruler and is it adviseable for linear panel lines as a guide- rather than masking tape? 2. (Perhaps the most important decision) Which Vulcan to do?! I've got a choice between XH558 and XL360- having been in XL360 and purely because I quite like the 617 tail marking (I might be turning into an "anorak" ) I feel a greater sense of attachment to her, although I have seen XH558 display at Throckmorton last year and so I am quite keen on her too! 3. Should I have "everything" open (gear down, airbrakes down, bomb bay doors open, crew hatch open)? Or should I save some money and (if I should choose XL360) build the Coventry Vulcan as it currently is (and save additional money with FOD covers for the ghastly kit intakes)? Note: I would have built the Cosford Vulcan but I'm not keen on the highly glossed finish of XM598 4. Any other advice for building the Airfix kit? Joins to watch out for, etc. I know that 2 and 3 are very subjective points but I would greatly value your opinions. Many thanks, Sam Edit: the 617 tail marking on XL360 Edit 2: -Are there any definitive colour matches out there for either 558 or 360?
  12. Picked one of these up at The Works today, some good reference pictures at a handy price http://www.theworks.co.uk/p/military-books/vulcan---last-of-the-v-bombers/9780753728932
  13. My other half very kindly bought me some Vulcan winter raffle tickets. Just wanted to wish anyone else that bought some the best of luck http://www.vulcanxh558raffle.co.uk/ This would be amazing
  14. I went to last years Headcorn show in Kent for '558 but thoroughly enjoyed the day. Here are some of the aircraft shots, if you like your military vehicles please follow the link to see what was there: http://www.hanger51.org/airshows/2015/headcorn-military-vehicle-show/ Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr DHL Jet Ranger by tony_inkster, on Flickr Tiger Moth by tony_inkster, on Flickr Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Dragon Rapide by tony_inkster, on Flickr Spitfire by tony_inkster, on Flickr Vulcan XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Vulcan XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr
  15. Hi All, I've picked up a 1/200 Vulcan and have finally decided to go anti flash white (I chickened out of doing it on my last Victor...) I want to do this with spray cans. What are the best (ideally cheapest) primer and white gloss products for the job? I don't know whether to go primer > matt white > clear gloss primer > gloss white enamel vs. acrylic etc Any help to make sure this just works first time would be highly appreciated! Ta, Chris
  16. This is my first build on the site, so it's in at the deep end with the Airfix Vulcan. I'm about 18 months into my rekindled hobby (after a break of about 20 years). I have recently invested in an airbrush and this will be my third airbrushed model. I am also going to re scribe the kit (only the second kit I've attempted this on). Other than that it's going to be pretty much standard kit. I've got a VIP tour of the real aircraft booked for mid April, so intend to take lots of photo's to assist with the build. This is going to be my big build for the year, taking my time, dipping in and out of it, so please don't expect rapid progress. I've made a start by washing all the parts and taking the wings and fuselage off the sprue's. As I'm re scribing, I though this would be more easily done as the first job. There's lots to do on the wings and it seems easier lying them flat on the desk. As a point of interest, this is my workspace. And this is the work I've done so far with the scribing, and removing some flash from around the edges. I've started on the wing on the right. I know there's been some epic Vulcan builds on here, I'm just hoping that mine doesn't let the standard drop too far.
  17. Good evening all, First of all, apologies about the photos-they're not the best.... Secondly, being a rather large Vulcan fan I thought why not try the Cyberhobby 1:200 kit, I would have never thought of buying one, but it was on Ebay for £5. And oh, my. What a kit! The panel lines are crisp, the decals are outstanding and the options available (shrike, blue steel, gear up/down, open crew hatch, etc, are quite varied. It even includes parts for the instrument panel and ejection seats-which shockingly also include control columns!!! A brilliant kit- the one issue being that the pressure needed in order the keep the upper and lower wing sections mated together while gluing is fairly substantial-requiring a clamp to get a good fit. Furthemore, it doesn't come with a bomb bay, so I've scratchbuilt a fairly crude bomb bay and managed to squash that into the aircraft. -Painted using an airbrush and Vallejo "Model Air" colours. Scratchbuilt bomb bay- including hand painted VTTS logo and a sponsor's logo inside (very messy, i know!) So, that's pretty much it from me, Thanks for having a look around Sam
  18. Howdy, I'm trying to locate a photo. It is lost to the internet now... I'm looking for images of the Vulcan nose cone being trailered to its current display location. The goal is to have images of the nose cone on the trailer. Any help? Thank you, Brent
  19. Hello Britmodeller, Welcome to the second installment of my natural weathering project. If you missed Part 1 then you can find it here. WIP: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234979698-vulcan-xm655-a-natural-weathering-experiment-with-completed/?hl=xm655 RFI: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234992518-weathering-vulcan-xm655-naturally/?hl=xm655 Here we have XM600, a cruel fated Vulcan that crashed near Spilsby in 1977. This Vulcan was one of only two Vulcans to be given a dark sea grey cammo upper surface with a white belly. I think the light an dark contrast well in terms of aesthetics so I thought, why not... I finished this Vulcan over a year ago and the gloss finish was looking a little flat, so... Glossy Vulcan! Three fresh coats to (hopefully) protect the decals (those of you who have seen the experiment with XM655 will know the decals didn't fare well). Back to this Vulcan - Compared to XM655 featured in Part 1 this Vulcan is considerably better made. Unlike XM655 this Vulcan had all of its surfaces sanded. I've re-scribed of all the panel lines which meant sanding the old ones away and I thought while I was at it I would do all of the surfaces to give a better key for the paint to adhere. I even went to the trouble of separating the outer elevons (but at the time I didn't dare do the inner elevons). The fuselage windows were also drilled and covered with some clear plastic I found. This Vulcan also had a fair bit of filler applied for that overall smoother look, it was by far my most advanced effort to that date. However after a mainly successful build it all went wrong with the paint! I was fairly happy with the camouflage, a little unbalanced but not too badly. It was the belly that was the source of disappointment. It wasn't sprayed, but brushed and I don't know if it's just the Humbrol white that was the issue but I had to put six or seven coats, so when it came time to match up the upper and lower surfaces the thickness of the paint was somewhat uneven. The white on the belly also comes up too high on the fuselage and the match up on the leading edges around the intakes isn't right. Finally when it came time to paint the fuselage Radome black, I also brought that up too high, so all in all a bad paint job. Fortunately I have since learned from my mistakes... So, same table/runway, same garden, same materials but a more advanced build. The differences? Well, XM655 was a matt finish all over and this one is (mostly) gloss. The radome and tail cap are finished in satin and the jetpipe caps and wheels are finished in matt. This one also has Humbrol Gloss-Cote whereas XM655 had Matt Cote as the top layers and the brown Humbrol stuff as the first coats and underneath the decals. This one has been given about five days in a warm airing cupboard, so hopefully the varnish will be fairly dry and will hold for longer. Oh, and this one is going out in winter, where XM655 went out in spring... As before she is screwed to the table, but I have given more lift on nose this time.. I'm not entirely sure why I did that, I may drop it more level later on.. After quite a nice day, it rained all over me whilst setting this up, which was fun... On the plus side it did give the pictures a nice effect. Here is how she looks on 22nd November 2015.. If you think the front U/C looks a little skew-wiff, it's because it is... I knocked it off during setup and it didn't glue back together properly, mainly because I couldn't be bothered to un-mount the Vulcan to glue it back on, so it will probably fall off... I hope that the gloss varnish will help to stop the paint peeling as happened on XM655. After only a few months the decals started to come off, I'm hoping XM600's will hold for longer... A good sign was when I varnished XM655 just before she went out I lost a few minor ones but on XM600 no decals came away at all. So, let the weathering commence! Thanks for looking and stay tuned.
  20. In honour of the lady herself, lets see the best of XH558, post what you have! Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Headcorn 2015 Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Headcorn 2015 Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Yeovilton 2015 V-Formation (Vulcan, Vixen, Vampire x 2) by tony_inkster, on Flickr Yeovilton 2015 Vulcan XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Cosford 2015 Sneak attack by tony_inkster, on Flickr Throckmorton 2015 Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Throckmorton 2015 Dogfighting Vulcan style by tony_inkster, on Flickr Dunsfold 2014 Avro formation by tony_inkster, on Flickr Coningsby 2014 Cold War Warrior by tony_inkster, on Flickr Waddington 2014 Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Waddington 2014 Avro Vulcan by tony_inkster, on Flickr Waddington 2014 Vulcan_7 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Dunsfold 2012 Vulcan B.2 XH558 by tony_inkster, on Flickr Robin Hood 2011
  21. Decals: Wolfpack 1/72 WD72001 Avro 698 Vulcan Part.1 - incl. two XH558 markings! Source: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.907570666002806.1073741852.554818677944675&type=3 V.P.
  22. As a side topic to the 'what should Airfix be making' and the inevitable 'why?' and 'why not' posts that follow can you list your personal wishlists in 3 categories: Near term - those you feel are likely to come to fruition in a year or two, even if you won't be buying it Medium term - within say 5 years, and can include those models You want to see that are a faintly realistic proposition. Long term - when you will be planning a release from your cryogenic chamber. (note: whilst the long term plans may include unlikely makes or marks, or even a corrected version of a current bestseller please try keep them fairly realistic - I doubt Airfix will be making a Tibetan homemade glider at any point despite the clamouring for one) .... Ok I'll start off (and I'll try to keep it as new kits only not rereleases) Near: Single seat Vamps P-47 (razor and bubble) D3A Val (extending the pacific WW2 niche) Buccaneer (a big UK seller and the old one is aged) Meteors (including at least 1 each T & NF) 2 seat Lightning (so many fighters, needs a matching trainer) Medium: Whirlwind (the forgotten WW2 fighter) DH106 Comet (4s please, RAF & Dan Air schemes) Victor (much demanded to replace the aging Matchbox) F-4 Phantoms (a European sized hole will persist unless FujiGawa get cheaper, or Revell add to their F) Panther/Cougar - (expanding the USN theme in to post war) Long: Vulcan (old mould is creaking) Wellesley (Forgotten type, fits with a WW2 desert theme) Gazelle (hard to find, simply needs updating to modern standards) Wasp/Scout (a missing link so long oop) Viggan (actually pretry much any Saab as the reborn Heller seen reluctant to mass market, and non-Gripens aren't commonplace) *I reserve the right to change my mind if I think of new options (and given time I could extend to top 100s!)
  23. Good evening everyone, I have two rather troublesome questions which have been plaguing me for a few weeks now, the first is regarding the Airfix Vulcan. I have finally plucked up the courage (and money!) to have a crack at an Airfix vulcan with the White Ensign Models (WEM) photo-etch kits, consisting of a bomb-bay, cockpit and airbrakes/exterior details. The question is, how should I present it so the cockpit detail can be viewed-should I have only the canopy as a removable item? Should I have a removable panel on the side? Should I just cut a cut-away hole in the side and leave it open? (Lighting is a possibility for all options). The second issue is that as some of you may know, I'm working on a 1:48 Vulcan made from card (card, not corrugated cardboard) which I intend to include almost every single piece of ribbing and interior details (fuel tanks, major linkages through the wings, fully detailled cockpit, etc). I am sure you can understand that I would rather open the details up so they can be viewed and like the previous issue, the question is how? The choices I've got consist of having half of the Vulcan (the left side for example) being "stripped" of the skin-exposing the detailling. The other choice is to have some panels removable or have them on hinges (could be useful for the engine servicing bay where the fairings hinge open, or the ECM fairing at the back which also hinges open). The third option would be to cover the entire aircraft in a skin but have these pieces of skin removable for viewing. If you have any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate your feedback! *While I don't think it is particularly ethical to advertise an external site on the forums I do feel that for the time being the progress photos are much easier to post on the blog. Don't feel obliged to click on it though! (see signature) Thanks, Sam
  24. Afternoon all, I was just checking twitter (I am not at any of the Vulcan's displays today) and it appears the Vulcan has returned to base at Doncaster with a possible fuel leak. I do hope they get it fixed so she can be ready for the planned "final tour" that the VTTS are thinking about. Thoughts? Sam
  25. Hi Everyone, I have rethought my post and have limited it to just the picture of XH558 that I took yesterday. I have deleted the Facebook album from my profile and will be deleting the photos with the exception of the one below from my photobucket account as well. This photo shows the last time I will ever see Vulcan XH558 flying where she belongs : IN THE AIR. I asked the staff at the Vulcan Village to pass along my thanks to the crew for doing this flypast. I will miss the sight of this aircraft flying and will never forget her. All the best, Rick
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