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  1. Revell's new Razor Crest from the Star Wars TV show 'The Mandalorian'. The kit is definitely a step up from some of Revell's previous Star Wars releases, featuring some excellent detailing and a full interior. It's also nice that they've made it in a standard modelling scale rather than some random one as many of their earlier SW kits were. The only significant downside with the kit is the poor surface texturing across many of the parts, including some quite visible tooling marks in places. Much of that can be removed with a sanding stick and a little effort, but I'd have prefered it not to be there in the first place. Despite that, the kit builds up well and has excellent fit for the most part. A few areas can benefit from a little extra detailing and enhancement, but the end result is an accurate and fairy imposing replica of the Crest, especially if you can stand it next to it's natural stablemate - Slave 1. The full build can be found here Thanks for looking Andy
  2. Back in the saddle after completing the Sternail, so what to build? Well, I got this box of Hobbycraft Vampire bits from the bay. Almost two Aircraft, and I have boxes of greeblies. I thought of doing a star Wars build instead of Kreiger. What could possibly go wrong? Yes, 1/48th, but two seaters, and a 1/32nd figure fits nicely. One kit was sort of assembled and painted silver. But it soon fell apart. The other was still in bits. The silver one had a big hole drilled through top and bottom. I backed them with card and applied filler. I did the same with the nose wheel bays. These will be space fighters with an odd landing gear. And in close up. The rest of the bits. I've supplied the figures (ex Phantom I think) and, in the top left corner is a printed part. I have two of these. Sea Vixen engines courtesy of @The Baron who very kindly sent me some of his excess prints. The plan is to fit the Vixen engines in here (somehow). Exposed engines seem to be a Star wars thing. I also covered over the mainwheel bays as can be seen here. Hopefully I'll find time to do more very soon. Thanks for looking, Pete
  3. It only took a few days of construction and painting to have a cheeky little table decoration. Bandai boxed the Death Star II with a Star Destroyer, originally I wanted to build the warship, but the superweapon got me. It can be put together in just half an hour, I haven't used glue anywhere. Sure, the joints could have been sealed here and there, but I didn’t deal with it. The base color is Tamiya XF-19 sky gray lightened with flat white. I painted the panels with artistic oil, as I could safely wash back on the acrylic base and repair it with thinner. The colors I used: Abteilung snow white + Rembrandt Payne gray. I hope you like it! 🙂
  4. I've taken a small delivery of Star Wars Bandai,/Revell Kits to test the water as I don't normally do Film, TV and SciFi. Feedback appreciated https://testvalleymodels.com/products/slave-1-gift-set-05678 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/boba-fetts-starship-06785 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/outland-tie-fighter-06782 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/death-star-star-desdtroyer https://testvalleymodels.com/products/razor-crest-06781
  5. Allow me to introduce NT7-S, a 1/12 scale GNK-series power droid from JPG Productions; painted with Tamiya, AK Real Color, and Vallejo paints; and weathered with 502 Abteilung oils and Ammo by Mig enamels. Comments and criticism welcomed as always!
  6. Hello all, This is my rendition of Bandai's 72nd scale T-70 x-wing painted in blue squadron markings as seen in Star Wars episode VII TFA. Overall this was a pretty fun build, there were some mishaps along the way, but I managed to finish it in the end, and am really pleased with the results. Here's the link to the WIP I did on it (this was my first wip, and I also think it turned out well): Here are the pics of the finished model: Hope you enjoy it! Oompa Loompa
  7. Hi all and here's my first finish for 2022, Bandai's 1/72 Poe's T-70 X-Wing from Ep. 7 The Force Awakens. I'm going to try and build more Star Wars stuff this year. Not much of a build thread as it went together so quickly! The fit of the parts is a joy and I only used glue in a couple of places. You could build and decal this straight from the box and have a lovely kit on your shelf. But I decided to repaint the orange markings with a custom Tamiya mix of red, orange & yellow. The hull was painted Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black My first time weathering with a liquid mask and I learned a lot - will do better next time. Rest of the weathering was a Flory Models wash and some oil streaking. Most of the kit decals were used. Thanks for looking and happy modelling. All the best, Dermot
  8. Hi all and happy new year - hope you had a safe and happy Christmas with a few models under the tree. Here's my year in builds; not as many as I had hoped to finish but when I look back, lots of colour! All in 1/72 unless noted. First up was Revell's 1:58 Easy Kit Resistance A-Wing repainted in Blue Squadron scheme (it was the Red boxing) Next was the Airfix (old issue) B-25J in 'Psychedelic Monster' scheme for the Unarmed GB here on the Forum. Followed by an equally old Airfix Mk1 Spitfire in fictional scheme from the 'Battle of Britain' movie Next was the Revell F-16C in Hellenic Zeus II Demo scheme for the STGB here. That was followed by the DreamModel AS-565 Panther in anniversary scheme for the French Fancy II GB More colour! Next was the Hasegawa F-14 in Blue Aggressor markings for the Tomcat STGB Hasegawa_F-14_Tomcat_1_72_NSAWC_done (3) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Another Tomcat but this time an Egg version for the KUTA GB And last one was a teeny, tiny Trumpeter Swedish Strv 103c S-tank for Ragnar's Return GB And that's it! Thanks for looking and all your words of encouragement and support through 2021 - it really is appreciated. For 2022, more Star Wars models to scratch that itch! Stay safe and happy modelling. Dermot
  9. I picked up Revell's new Razor Crest a few days ago, and while I was originally planning on starting the build next year, after going through the sprues and seeing how much detail Revell had put into the kit (something that's not always the case with their Star Wars releases), I had to make a start on it straight away. I won't bother with any sprue shots here, but I posted some in the discussion section, and there's also Mike's review of the kit. You get a fairly comprehensive interior included, and the build starts with the cockpit and upper deck area. There's quite a bit of detail here, probably more than is neccesary in truth, although that's not a complaint, just an observation. The main floor panel is a full length plate that also forms the roof of the lower cargo deck. The front of this is divided into two sections by bulkhead panels, the front of these sections being the cockpit, and the rear one is the small vestibule?, foyer?, landing? where you access the upper deck from below. Two side panels close these sections off, then the cockpit is completed by the instrument panel which also forms the forward walls of the cockpit. The rear vestibule section is fully enclosed, and will only be visible through two tiny windows in the upper hull, and will more than likely be completely invisible on the finished build. I'm surprised that they didn't mould the dividing bulkhead with open doors, or supply two versions, one open and one closed. You could of course cut the doors open yourself if you want the rear compartment to be visible from the cockpit. Most of the detailing here is very accurate to the cockpit set used on the show including the panel pattern on the door and the box holding three lights imediately above it (Apologies for the dinginess of these screen grabs, they're the best I've got) Moving to the front of the cockpit, Revell have done a pretty good job at recreating the various controls and screens on the instrument panel, although a few things are understandably simplified. There are however a couple of odd omissions. The lefthand side console has some piping running along the top, and a short tube at the front edge, and these have both been reproduced, as have the row of three red lights although they're quite faint. The throttle-type lever behind the left display screen is there, but quite a flat moulding, so I may cut that off and replace it. The holo emitter above the screen is also present, but again quite flat compared to the real one. To the right of these should be the main centre console display, and that's one of the omissions I mentioned. Where it should sit there's a rectangular recess that looks as if something should go in it, but nothing is included or mentioned in the instructions. Not a real problem as I can scratch something to go there. The two big clunky looking things sticking out from behind where the centre console should be are representations of the control sticks. The real ones are two columns that extend from below the console and end with a square block onto which the joysticks are mounted. These too will be better of replaced with something a little more refined. Interesting trivia: it appears that, in the photo below, the centre console has been removed, probably to allow better access for the camera when filming the scene. The photo below shows the ends of the control columns and joysticks better, and also shows the other strange omission from the instrument panel. While the throttle controls on the left and right side console have been included, Revell haven't moulded the famous lever with the round knob that attracts Grogu's attention throughout the show. Given how well known that feature is, it's strange that Revell don't include it when they include details that most people wouldn't notice. Again, no problem though, as it can easily be added. Revell aren't the only ones to forget though, as in some scenes the control lever (not just the knob) is missing from the cockpit set. The seats are all well done with the two passenger seats being quite basic as they are on the show, while Mando's chair has a lot more detail. The bands on the headrests of the passenger seats represent the straps hung over the back of the seats. They do appear like this in the show, but they can also be seen in use, especially when they're strapping Grogu in place. I'll probably sand these off and replace them with some foil straps. The hole in the back of Din's seat will also need to be filled as I won't be using the included figure. Well, what about some actual modelling I hear you say. Well, yes, I have managed to do something other that look at reference pics, although not a great deal to be fair. I've removed the moulded detail from the tops of the side consoles, and this will be replaced with some wire and brass tubing. I've also made up a simple centre console from styrene sheet with a thinner piece of sheet added to represent the screen. The base for Grogu's lever has been added as well. Oh, and the control columns have been removed ready for some replacements. The two grab handles on the left hand screen are made from thin stretched sprue, and will probably get knocked off before I even get close to painting 😄 If you look back up the page at the screen shot with the missing lever, you can also see that there's a folded metal shroud over the top of the centre console, and I've made a simplifed representation of that from some styrene strip (barely visible in the photo below, sorry). A bit of brass tube has also been added to the holo emitter, although now I look at the screen shots, the emitter should be further to the left hand side of the console, so I'll probably re-do this. Okay, that's about it for now. I should get a little more done over the next couple of days. Andy
  10. Hello all, This is my first WIP, so I’m going to be learning as I go along; I chose to build Bandai’s lovely 1/72 T-70 X-wing, this isn’t my first x-wing (I’ve already built a T-65 in “Red 5” scheme) and this certainly won’t be my last as I’ve got 2 more in the stash. The kit itself is as good as any Bandai kit, which means that the detail is crisp, everything fits together without any glue needed, there isn’t any flash to be seen and the clear parts are beautifully moulded without any defects. I’ll be doing this ship in Blue Squadron scheme as seen during the attacks on Takodana and Starkiller Base in episode VII The Force Awakens. I have already cut off the cockpit parts which I painted in Ak real colors RC261 Neutral Grey, and I also cut out the pilot and droid which I proceeded to prime with Tamiya XF-2 flat white. Here are some sprue shots, I know this has been done before, but I thought it would be nice anyway.Note: I cut off the clear parts sprue section from the main sprue to avoid damaging the canopy. Box Art Instructions Bandai decals and stickers Sprue A with fuselage Clear parts sprue section, cut off from main sprue A Sprue B with s-foils Sprue C with silver coloured parts Sprue B2 with BB model droid Sprue with base for The Last Jedi version Sprue with base for The Force Awakens version Here's what I've done so far: The seat was painted with Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I don’t know how long I’ll take to finish this kit as I’ve got other projects going on, including a P-51D Mustang GB with my dad; I hope to finish before the end of the year but I doubt that will be possible. I will also try to take some comparison shots to show the difference between the T-65 and the T-70 x-wings using both Bandai kits and hopefully by next week I will have painted the cockpit, and maybe done some sub-assemblies.
  11. Hi all, I know it's been aaaaages since I posted here, but I haven't been idle; just busy enough that I've mostly only posted to Instagram for the last two years because it's just the lowest friction avenue. But as the year ends I've been taking proper photos of a lot of models. I'll probably make a single thread for most of them, but this one might interest folks on its own. It's the JPG Productions 1:144 scale Moldy Crow resin kit, mastered by Nicholas Sagan (aka Cosmos Models). It's currently out of production, but JPG has said he may bring it back in the future. I actually picked it up years ago, and made a start out of it 3 years ago, and then it sat unfinished for 3 years because I couldn't find a good base color. Well -- that all changed when I bought an airbrush and the entire line of Archive-X acrylics. Which, by the way, are *AMAZING*. The slightly paraphrase the immortal words of Ferris Bueller -- they are so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking them up. The three year break turned out to be a good thing, because this is the first resin kit I've completed; it took a lot of work to build it, from lots of filing and filling to get parts to fit, to completely rebuilding the wing-attachment, using brass and my Proxxon micro-mill setup. I took a lot of inspiration from game artist Jason Lewis's digital Moldy Crow model he built for his personal project remaking the first level of Dark Forces. It is, without doubt, the most detailed digital model of the Crow ever made, and a fantastic extrapolation of the ship from its distinctly low-polygon origins. Check it out at https://www.artstation.com/artwork/A929GX Jason included a mechanism for adjusting the wings, which I adapted as an added detail on my build, made from steel music wire, brass tubing, and cast resin greeblies. I added a lot of additional detail to the built with cast resin greeblies which I molded from various Bandai kits, and I also completely scratch-built replacements for the sensor arrays on the front of the wings, which were extremely fragile as included with the kit. The replacements are also a lot sharper. I also replaced the kit-supplied barrels on the belly cannon with machined brass Hurricane Mk IIC - Hispano Mk I cannons from master-model.pl Finally, I replaced some of the piping with 1.5mm braided silver hose, a motorcycle kit up-detailing part. Painting Details I primed it with Mr Surfacer 1500 Black, then applied Vallejo Model Air White for pre-shading under the base color coat. The base color is a mix of AX-020 Rust and AX-041 Roof Brown, with accented panels misted over with AX-016 Earth or pure Roof Brown. The red accents are a 1:1 mix of AX-025 Caboose Red and AX-026 D&H Caboose Red. The contrasting rear side panels are AX-008 SP Dark Lark Grey, and the sensor antennas and belly cannon barrels are AX-013 Grimy Black. The sensor fins in front of the engine pods are AX-007 SP Lettering Grey (which is one of my favorite colors in the whole Archive-X lineup). I used the Vallejo Metal Colors line for the grills and actuator rods, as well as dry-brushed metallic highlights on top of the Grimy Black. Mostly bits of Gun Metal, Magnesium, and Duraluminum. Without further ado, the Moldy Crow.
  12. Hi all, After almost a month of work I finished Lord Vader’s ship. This was a very fun and a relatively quick build and, like all Bandai kits, it fits together perfectly. The model was painted with AK Real Colors Acrylics and weathered with Abteilung 502 oils. I hope you enjoy it, Comments welcome! A picture with the enemy.
  13. Another 3D printed Gonk droid, this time a four legged version. A few quad Gonks have appeared over the years in various corners of the Star Wars expanded universe, although never on screen to my knowledge. Those ones tend to look like regular Gonks, but with four legs. For this one though, I wanted to create my own design with a more modern, industrial aesthetic, while still looking like something that could have come from the films - hopefully I've got somewhere close to that. This should have been sporting the emblem of the Mining Guild (A faction in the Star Wars universe), but I was unable to find anyone who could print the required decals, so that will have to wait for a future build. Unlike the last Gonk I build (PT-1N can be found here), this one is almost entirely 3D printed, with just the legs, rear panel, cables, and eye lens coming form other sources. The full build can be seen here And finally, a few shots with some of my other droids Thanks for looking Andy
  14. This is my 1/6 Battle Droid with STAP, wanted to give him a more dynamic pose than the standard kit so I cut his ankles off and reworked most of the limb joints in order to give him more of a motorbike type lean. I'm really pleased with how he came out and getting the pose sorted and gluing him in place turned out not to be quite as fiddly as I thought, and I think it looks much better than the very static looking original. Heres a link to the WIP Thanks to everyone who followed along and commented, that always makes a build more fun and interesting! Here are the final pics IMG_20211018_113911098~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113858410_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113842813_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113741993_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113721210_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113658776_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113649792_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113623128_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113612545_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113533847_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113517179_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113447675_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113424045_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113408745_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113345578_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113355128_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113224428_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113112061_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113049895_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113038317_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113003001_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Thanks for looking, all comments and questions welcome
  15. A-Wing StarFighter (01210) 1:72 Carrera Revell/Bandai The A-Wing was a minor character in the original (and best) Star Wars trilogy, appearing in the background in some of the large space battles. It has since gained a little more prominence in the new films and the cartoon spin-offs, which are numerous. It’s a small one-seater twin-engined ship manufactured (in a galaxy far far away) by Kuat Systems Engineering, and somehow finds its way into Rebel hands. Its speed and pivoting main cannons make it a useful tool that is suited for rapid interdiction and lightning strikes. The Kit This is a licensed reboxing by Revell of the excellent Bandai kit that was released in 2016, which was available only by personal import or from a grey-import box-shifter until now. This is the most minimalistic reboxing from Revell, with a sticker placed over a portion of the box showing Revell’s logo and their product code along with a few European-style descriptions of what it is – a self-assembly model kit. If you’re a Star Wars model builder, you probably know what to expect inside, and I’m one myself so I’ve already got one of the Bandai kits in my stash. Bandai have an incredible team of engineers creating their kits, who achieve amazing detail, simplicity and cleverness of construction, and skill of tooling the most stunning injection moulded kits around. They regularly inject several colours and types of styrene into one sprue with their kits that Western companies could only aspire to, which cuts down the sprue-count and makes for a less messy desk during the build. They’re also snap-together kits in essence, with pre-coloured parts that don’t require painting if you’re either a beginner, a child without the facilities or just don’t want to get the paint out. If you aren’t familiar with Bandai’s style of snap-together kits, you probably think that this renders them simplistic and toy-like. Get that mindset right out of your mind right now, as these kits couldn’t be further from that type of product. The box is pure Bandai with a black glossy surface to the top-opening box, with five sprues in cream; dull red, cream, black and clear; grey; black and finally clear red. Because the A-Wing is a compact fighter, you get the ship itself, plus a base with a Turbo-Laser Turret on a section to one side, which gives that frissant of Death Star to accompany your model. The decals are duplicated as stickers for the younger or less skilled builder, and the package is rounded off by the inclusion of a concertina-fold instruction booklet in colour. Originally, the instruction booklets were written almost completely in Japanese, but as time went on they have included more English, which is helpful to augment the visual instructions and icons that appear throughout the booklet. Construction begins with the A-Wing, which first has its cockpit made up from six highly detailed parts plus a decal or sticker (whenever I say decal, also think sticker from hereon in). The lower hull is next, adding inserts into the weapons mounts and their rear, after which the hull topside is clipped into place, with the cockpit dropped in from above. The red section of the topside is separate due to the self-coloured parts, with a separate spin behind the cockpit and the tapered apron toward the front. The spine has a three-part cream insert at the rear, then it clicks in place along with the apron into the upper hull around the cockpit tub, locking it in place. A similar red insert is fitted to the underside, and clear side panels smooth out the joint between top and bottom halves. The nose cone is red, as are two panels in the underside wings, and another red insert fits behind the tapered section under the hull. Flipping the hull over, a roll-over hoop is added to the rear of the cockpit, and a pilot figure with two small decals is popped into the seat before the clear canopy and a snap-on curved frame part. The engine nacelles project from the rear of the arrow-head hull, and have fins at an angle top and bottom of the exhausts. These have clear engine inserts with stoppers behind them for painting a fiery colour or lighting, and a two-part trunk is clipped to each side of the fins with a tiny part with two angled pipes/hoses coming out of the sides. At the rear are a pair of oval fairings with four more exhaust cups inside, the shape of which is akin to a pair of F-16 intakes, which given their kit-bashed heritage they very well could be just that. Having a second look, I seriously think they are! The twin ovals are attached to an insert with the four exhausts and are fitted together with the main engines and their fins, then are offered up to the rear of the hull to be clipped into place. The pivoting guns at the wingtips are each made up from three parts with hollow muzzles, then the three gear bay doors are clipped into place if you are depicting your A-Wing in flight on the stand, or in the open position with three two-part gear legs if you are putting it on the ground. There are plenty of diagrams to show you where the various parts should fit, so don’t concern yourself about making a mistake. That’s the A-Wing finished and now it’s time for the base and turret extension. The base has a greebly-filled surface to its single part, with an angular diagonal riser that has a jointed tip to allow the modeller to adjust the pose of their model at any time. The bases are able to be linked together by the included clips, which leads us nicely to the bonus Turbo-Laser turret that can clip onto the base, as its footprint is the exact same size as the base itself, and it also has the cut-outs for the clips. The tapering base is a single part, which is extended upward by another dual taper section that is made from four parts inserted into its flat top, and is joined by the turret at the top, which is three parts and builds up around the gun assembly. This begins with two hollow-tipped barrels that have toothed quadrants fitted on their outer edges and in between them, after which the barrels are raised to the vertical and bracketed by a two-part assembly that holds them in situ. The barrels are then returned to the horizontal and surrounded at the sides and on top by the turret shell. The turret clips into place on the top of the base, and can be rotated and elevated as you see fit – just so long as you enjoy playing with it Oh, and no, I couldn’t resist building the turret. Markings The kit is self-coloured, so technically you don’t need to paint a thing, but the back page of the instructions give you a six-view look at the model as per the box art, with colour and decal/sticker call-outs along the way. The pilot figure is also shown painted with the two tiny decals on the helmet, and there is some weathering that has been applied around the cockpit and the rest of the hull to give you an idea of what to aim for. There’s a lot of pictorial evidence out there for any other markings and schemes that you might wish to portray though, and we often see some adventurous schemes here on Britmodeller.com. Conclusion It was a gorgeous kit in 2016 when it came out, and it’s just as good now. If you’re a Star Wars modeller and want a well-detailed model of an A-Wing, this is the kit to get. Very highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. Hello all, These are 2 of my older Star Wars builds, my Bandai 1/144 Slave 1 and 1/72 B-wing. Since we moved early this year both kits were in boxes and only last week we finally managed to clear up some space to display all of our older builds, including Slave 1 and the B-wing. Slave 1 was built over a year ago and was my first Star Wars build, it was also my first time using the hairspray technique for weathering. The kit was painted with Tamiya acrylics and, AK medium chipping fluid was used for the weathering. The base was painted to resemble the landing platform which Slave 1 lands in Cloud City, Bespin, in the film “The Empire Strikes Back”. The B-wing was completed a short time later and like Slave 1 was also painted with Tamiya acrylics. The round orange squadron markings were painted and the model was weathered with Abteilung 502 oils. Both kits were really fun to build and paint, and I was quite pleased with the results. Comments welcome!
  17. Hi folks, well I am calling this done, I ordered some replacement shield generator towers from Shapeways, as the kit resin items were a bit fragile and crude in details compared to 3D printed ones. I also ordered a Rebel Blockade Runner and some TIE fighters that were about the size of a grain of rice! The tiny Imperial Shuttle did come with the kit, I wasn't too sure how the final display would be presented, in the end I opted for the traditional captured Blockade Runner from the original movie opening scene. But I had a bit of fun photographing the various options. Happy modelling and may the Force be with you! Finally, if you want to see the work in progress of this build, click the link below. I've also created some videos to compliment the model.
  18. Remember the opening scenes of Red Dwarf? A spacesuited figure is painting, the camera pulls back & we see a huge spaceship. Well, that partly inspired this build. I built a Star Wars freighter and wanted a different way to display it. I had a redundant noticeboard and an idea. Plastic card, Polystyrene foam and glue came together to create this... Here's the Squadron badge. I thought some colour might brighten things up, and then this happened. I used a Japanese wing roundel and a pirate decal plus pen & pencil. Panel lines were enhanced with acrylic pastels. The Starships all seem to have maintenance trenches. This is only loosely based on them, I just used what I had for greeblies. More greeblies. We're going from left to right BTW. No prizes for guessing what these were originally supposed to be. The front end of the Vaurbian Freighter hoves into view. Above it is a repurposed 1/350th F-5. And in this shot is the Imperial shuttle. This picture was taken before I added the F-5. See, it's back again. The F-5 and various other bits were donated by @bootneck, so my thanks to him for his generosity. Hopefully it doesn't look too far out of place. I tried to add a nav droid behind the cockpit. There's room for more ships to be attached to this, so I'll start another in the near future. The WIP is in the usual place. Comments are always welcome, and thanks for looking. Pete
  19. Hello all, I finally finished my 1/72 Bandai x-wing painted in my interpretation of Luke Skywalker’s starfighter, Red 5. All the markings are painted, no decals were used except for a marking on the inner side of the left bottom wing which can’t be seen when the s-foils are closed. I decided to do Red 5 with landing gear down and canopy open last minute, I originally planned on doing landing gear up and then using the death star base that comes with the kit, but, after some thought I decided I’ rather do another diorama base, maybe the stone hangar on Yavin 4? But that’ll take some more time to do and, since I’m doing some other projects, I don’t know how long it will take; I will post more pictures when I get around doing the diorama. The kit was painted using Tamiya, AK real colors and gunze acrylics, then weathered with abteilung oils and Tamiya pigments. I’ve used the hairspray technique to do the chipping on certain parts of the model. I had a lot of fun building this model, and I hope you enjoy looking at it!
  20. Hi all, this kit has been in my stash since 2016 when I bought it from a guy in Texas USA. I have only now plucked up the courage to tackle this beast of a kit! My kit is good condition; however it will still have warp issues and fit problems, it has got sharp panel lines and crisp details, which leads me to think that this was one of the first examples to be pulled from the original moulds. Obviously, I plan to light it, but I am not after a film accurate replica, I plan to just build it as a nice looking model with modern lighting added. So, I will be using a few dozen 0.5mm drills to get the windows opened up, and then I will be adding 100 metres of 0.25 fibre optic strands. I think this should give a nice scale lighting effect. I fully expect to spend about a week just getting all of the parts to fit together, also I plan to have a pole mounted through the bottom reactor dome, this will involve some tubular structure in the hull of the ship to support the model and stop any possible future warpage and sag issues. Let's hope the modelling force is with me for this build, I look forward to receiving your comments as always.
  21. Just a quick build of Bandais 1:144 Tie Fighter crashed on a desert planet, undamaged solar panels scavenged for scrap.
  22. Hello all, Well, this is my second post, it’s Bandai’s 1/48 AT-ST (manufactured by Kuat Drive Yards) aka Chicken Walker, I finished this one today after about 2 months of work, the whole thing was painted with Tamiya’s XF-19 (sky grey) and then weathered with Abteilung 502 oils and some pigments, the base was painted with lifecolor’s german tank brown and then I added shrub tufts from Green Stuff. I’m 14 years old and I’m still learning a lot, so any comments welcome. Hope you enjoy it!
  23. Hello, This is my first post, my dad and I are a modelling team and we enjoy the hobby together, he has been modelling since he was a boy while I just started 2 years ago, I do more sci-fi kits whilst he does aircraft kits; I completed it a few weeks ago, it’s Bandai’s 1/72 RZ-1 A-wing starfighter (interceptor, which is manufactured by Kuat Systems Engineering) from the movie “Return of the Jedi” flown by green leader also known as Arvel Crynyd, who dies by flying it into the bridge of the super star destroyer known as the “Executor”. My model was painted using mainly Tamiya acrylics and AK Real Colors acrylics. This was a really fun and easy build, like all Bandai kits it just snapped together. I really like the result and I hope you like it too. Questions and comments welcome!
  24. And once again, we're back in the Lincolnshire shipyards for the latest in the series of raids on the bits boxes. I had this picture board, doing not a lot on the mancave wall. What to do? Well, I seem to be in a Star Wars groove at the moment. Following on from my Vaurbian Freighter build, I wanted a different way to mount it (Ooer!) and this popped into my head. I also was partially inspired by the opening scenes from Red Dwarf, where we see a spacesuited figure painting a huge bit of spaceship. In 1/350th scale the maintenance trench is between 100mm & 28mm deep. I am Indebted to @Madmonk for these figures. Yesterday I measured up and cut some wood to make the basis of the trench. Some drilling and screwing (now then!) and we have what you can see in the pictures below... (Which I tried to post earlier but either BM or Imgur was messing about). So, Board on wall, bottle of TET and rulers to show the size. Two pieces of wood to form top and bottom of the trench. And, a section of plastic card to partially represent the skin of the ship for these pictures. I need to obtain some appropriate card (plastic or otherwise) to become the skin. Suggestions are welcome. I will probably need to scribe it and will certainly need to paint it. And a close up shot. The trench, as seen above, is 100mm in depth and height. I will use various false walls to vary the depth, and fill the result with lots of greeblies. This will not be a direct copy of a Star Wars ship, detailed reference shots seem to be few and far between. So I'm going for a 'in the spirit of' build. Something that could be. I'm not going to attempt the hangar bay, I don't know the dimensions for a start. I did think to build the entrance and use a photo behind it, but maybe not. I've made a start today by making up some sections of walls etc, The wood will be covered in 1mm plastic card, BTW. Thanks for looking, comments, as always, are very welcome. Pete
  25. Hi all, well here is the finished build of both these great Bandai kits. I wanted the ship to appear suspended in space, so to achieve this I exited the wiring through the bow (front) section by means of a 2.5mm tube that also had a section of wire rod protruding into the hull. This tube was super glued into a 1 inch block of neoprene foam block that was glued to the back of the wall print. To create the space background, I used black corex sheet which was covered in black felt. The horizon was lit up by gluing some blue LED strip lighting to the back of the corex sheet. The Star Destroyer was tricky to add lighting that looked in scale, but I am happy with how it came out in the end. As I did with the Death Star, I scraped away the internal plastic to allow light to show through. The side trenches came in solid plastic with only minimum detailing, so I replaced them with fibre optic strand, then cut up small sections of the strands and epoxy glued them to add side detailing and still allow light to shine through. The side trenches each had some narrow-LED strip glued down each side of the lower hull sections. 2mm warm white LED's were then added to the hangar bay's areas and the upper decks, there was enough light inside to also light up the ion engines. Once the ship was completed, I sprayed it all over with black primer to light block, then a few coats of white primer. I then sealed the ship with Tamiya flat clear LP-23, finally I used Abteilung 502 light grey and Starship filth oils, mixed together to give a light wash over the whole model, followed by a final coat of flat clear. The last picture gives you a clue to my next Star Wars project which will include this picture diorama build as a backdrop.
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