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Found 46 results

  1. So. I have a new scratchbuild project. And its a big one. After much luft 46 building, I've decided to do something on the ground. This monster, armed with 2 280mm naval guns from KMS Gneisenau, would have weighed 1000 tons, and would have to have had 6 sets of tracks. So far I've done a little on the 'Ratten gruppe eins' (thanks Levin), and made a start on the turret, using plans made from a sketchup model. The group consists so far of an Airfix sd kfz 222, and an Ex-Matchbox Revell Jagdpanzer. The white objects in the photo are 3d printed items, (made out of PLA on an M3D Micro printer, not the best but certainly one of the cheapest ready built one) and are a Saukopfblende for the Pak44, which will be sourced from Modelltrans' conversion, a 280mm gun (looks better in real life), and 2 Wirbelwinds, in need of trimming and barrels. The Flak 38 wip is from Zvezda, and the Jagdpanzer crewman is Plastic Soldier Company.
  2. I have a few projects on the drawing board, all of which involve the Liberty Ships of WW2 fame. My intention is to build at least three different types/classes of ship using the Trumpeter 1:350 Liberty ship kit as a basis; (if I can find more kits in sales or at affordable bargain prices) and hopefully I will be able to produce some WIP's that will keep me occupied during the period from now and through the autumn and winter evenings. This thread is the first such project and I shall be using the Trumpeter 1:350 kit of the John W. Brown version to make a conversion build. The vessel to be built will be HMS Assistance [AR-17], a repair ship of the Xanthus sub-class of Liberty Ship types. Two were completed for the Royal Navy, one was an aircraft depot/repair ship and served in home waters whilst the other, HMS Diligence [AR-18], served in the Far East as a destroyer depot/repair ship. Their time in the Royal Navy was short-lived, due to the ending of hostilities, and they were returned to the U.S.A. in 1946. Although my intention is to build this kit as the aircraft depot/repair ship HMS Assistance, I may change my mind and build it as HMS Diligence; if I can find some research data on which destroyers might have been alongside her in late 1945 whilst in the Far East. This will be a waterline version and I hope to place the finished model in a sea setting diorama, but that is a long, long way in time to be concerned with at the moment. Starting with the base, I have glued a sturdy piece of brass rod in place. This is more to give the model some weight as I don't think these models suffer from any warping or bending up of the hull over time. Next element is to add some strengthening plates to the mid deck sections, before adding the bow and stern deck pieces. This area of the kit's deck is unsupported underneath and can bend and cause the joins to part when sanding and fitting parts etc. Virtually all of the deck fittings, especially the hatches, will need to be removed before any further work can be undertaken. The RN versions had much larger accommodation and working spaces than the standard cargo ships, plus they had additional armament and sponsons; most of which will need to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. The deck area has been cleaned down to the basic level and just needs all the holes and gaps filled before the actual build can start. I shall be using plans, which I found on-line, that I have resized to 1:350 so that they match the kit in size. This will help considerably in identifying each structure's required dimensions and their locations. Final thing for this post is to mask all the gaps and joins and then fill with thinned Green Putty. The thinner is cellulose thinners and is mixed with the Green Putty to act like a thick surfacer which I can paint on using a standard modelling paint brush. The holes in the deck have been plugged with white styrene rod and cut flush to the deck. When the putty has completely dried, I shall remove the tape and then get down to sanding everything smooth with wet and dry. Hopefully in the next session I will be able to start making up some of the structures. cheers Mike
  3. Hi all, I'm still pretty new to model making, so this might be an obvious question, but is there any easy way to build a replacement clear part for the cockpit glass? I stupidly cracked the kit part after the below picture was taken, and it really is beyond repair. I can't afford to get into vacuum forming either sadly. This is only my second model building project, an old MPC Millennium Falcon I got for a reasonable price - and being the novice I am, I was totally unaware (or rather didn't read up before making an impulse buy at a convention!) of the amount of inaccuracies with this kit. I've made some minor modifications, such as building a new engine grill, lighting it, as well as ordering some aftermarket parts (the inner cockpit detail and a smaller radar dish), but I wasn't brave enough to correct the scale of the cockpit section. My hope with this kit was to get some experience using oil washes/weathering techniques, rather than getting a screen accurate model, as my only previous experience was building the Voyager from Star Trek (so, pristine and very little weathering). It's still not finished yet, so i'm hoping it will get a little darker/dirtier with the later layers. Hope you can help, as I'd rather not leave the glass out if possible. (the top half isn't attached yet, hence all the light leaks)
  4. Felt like doing something different and as no-one else is likely to produce a kit of this, a scratchbuild is the only way to add it to my British Jets line-up. More info Luckily it's all simple shapes and very small so I don't think there will be too many headaches with this. Started off by printing out the basic shapes and cutting them out of plasticard. Quite quickly all glued together and left to harden off. To cut down the amount of work, I had a hunt through the spares box for donor parts for the wings, tailplane and fin. The orange wings are from a Polish glider kit that previously gave up it's fuselage for another scratchbuild so I've had my moneys worth out of it! The tailplane is from an F-86 and the fin from a Crusader (I think) tailplane. Each one is shown before and after being modified, with the sections that have been removed. I was very lucky with these parts as they were all a fairly close match. A bit more chopping and gluing later...... ....and a bit more. The fuselage has now been covered in filler and the rear section partly sanded back towards the correct shape. You can just start to see the plasticard showing through. Needs a lot more work but the basic shape is starting to come together. Thanks for looking. Steve
  5. Does anyone have, or know of, any decent plans of the Handley Page HPR.1 Marathon? I don't know if any such plans were issued with past aircraft magazines but I would like to get hold of a scan or photocopy in order to have a try at scratchbuilding one. Also, does anyone here know of any commonality of parts, between this aircraft and others, such as wings, tail, undercarriage etc., anything which might help by utilizing parts from other models. I work to 1:144 scale. cheers Mike
  6. I'd like to join with a diorama setting of a part of the U.S. Air Force base at Bien Hoa, South Vietnam in the late 1960's. I like to work in small scales and have a few aircraft that might look OK in a small diorama setting around 1966-68. The plan would be to, hopefully, scratchbuild some revetments, corrugated hangars and a tarmac/dispersal area for the aircraft. Incidently, in the colour image of the airbase, there is a fire truck in the top right and corner just approaching the revetments; plus a delivery type van at bottom centre. Does anyone have any details on these types of vehicles (or any other US vehicles typically found there), especially with plans, as I would like to add a few to the dio. cheers Mike
  7. Hello to everyone! This is my first attempt at this so forgive me of any mistakes. As a very keen modeller through the late 60’s all the 70’s the one kit I always lusted after but could never afford (or do justice to) was the 1/24th Harrier. An older friend bought one as soon as it was released. He kept getting the box out, looking at the massive sprues and it and put it away again, for years we all kept asking where the Harrier was. That friend unfortunately died a good while ago so in some way this build is to the happy memories of Dave Rodgers. After starting modelling seriously again 3 years ago, I decided that it was time to have a bash and tackle the monster - thanks to a sale on Amazon I picked up the newly boxed GR3 for £36. Even though I enjoy using resin and photo-etch we sometimes seem to be heading toward a world where you needn’t worry about painting skills when you can stick in self adhesive pre-painted details. I remember when building flying models in the 70’s ARTF (Almost Ready to Fly) appeared, buy Saturday - fly Sunday; I railed against that a little too, I’ve always been a builder. My concessions to the modern era are cyano glue and acrylics. I always use Mek as a plastic solvent which costs around £10 for a litre. I buy Isopropanol for around £12 per gallon from Amazon. A great Acrylic thinner is 50% Isopropanol and 50% winter car windscreen wash. Anyroad, the kit still is a cracker and is a superb representation of the early tin-wing Harriers. Anyone who looks closely at a preserved GR1 or GR3 will see Airfix got the surface textures and details spot on. In places the early harriers look almost ‘boilerplate’ in construction. The kits surface detail is one thing - interior detail is another, it’s virtually absent. The design and engineering is typical of the era - even having the novelty folding undercarriage and closing doors etc. I decided to avoid resin and etch and built the whole thing in a true 70’s scratch build style. I haven’t had this much fun in years. Please respect copyright of my photographs. Starting the build. I attacked the cockpit tub first (as tradition dictates) .5mm card was used for the raised riveted plates using the Trumpeter riveting tool to detail. I built some switch panels from plasticard with thin slivers bonded upright to represent toggle switches. I dug out as many reference images as I could but the bulk of the ejector seat obscured much of the view; therefore a little artistic licence was used to give the impression of a busy cockpit. Most of the detail is added from plasticard scraps and stretched sprue. Different thicknesses of solder are always good for detailing. After a few coats of paint, glossing and washing the cockpit tub looks suitably grimy! The decals supplied work very well on the instrument panel and are large enough to cut out individually to fit, I use a set of cheap hole punches. I painted the back of the clear moulded radar/moving map screen then the HUD frame was built from fine brass wire. Shadows were airbrushed in to increase the impression of depth when the cockpit was closed up. At the same time I added detail to the sidewalls using tube, solder, fuse wire and plasticard, I cheated a little and got some ideas for the detail from resin examples I saw for sale at the Huddersfield show… The Seat The kit seat is virtually blank and needs a complete replacement/rebuild especially when everyone peers into the huge cockpit of a 1/24th scale model. To ensure a clean fit in the tub I used the measurements of the kit seat to build one from scratch - only the kit headrest was used. Canopy cutters were added to this and the parachute with its straps and cables were added to form the headbox. The parachute and straps are lead foil. The seat itself was a simple construct of 1mm card with details added from scrap plastic and .5mm brass wire and seat cushions carved polystyrene foam, dipped in PVA to seal the surface before painting. The seat straps and canvas cover are lead foil again. All the separate elements were built, painted and weathered before final assembly. You know, those headbox height adjust bars (red at the moment) are scraps left over from an Aurora biplane model from the late 60's... The straps and canvas cover are all made from lead foil, I found scraps of Eduard etch left over from a Chieftain MK5 build that worked very well for buckles etc. The supplied Airfix decals finish it off very nicely. A quick dry brushing with grey and a coat of matt varnish and it's ready for the straps fitting. My first plan was to build as originally intended and have the whole wing removable to view the engine; however as the build progressed it became obvious that I wouldn’t be able to get a clean fit without large gaps. I did away with this original feature enabling a much more solid build and elimination all those awkward wing joints. a pity though as I'd spent over a week detailing and painting the Pegasus, based on one displayed at Cosford. The Airfix Harrier is big, very big so to avoid damage during construction I replaced all the blade aerials with .5mm brass sheet glued firmly into slots cut deep into the plastic. The slots were filled with thick cyano and sanded, I'm determined to use this method for future builds (of all scales). Bits & Bobs The undercarriage wells on Harriers are quite large voids within the fuselage. In 1974 it was more important for Airfix to compete with other manufacturers and add moving components. Of course moulding technology has moved on in huge leaps since then but the 1/24th Harrier was seen as a wonder in it's day. The wells are nothing more than empty plastic boxes in the kit; I couldn't source any clear images of the inside of these areas so I used my 'Artistic Licence' (mine came from Woolworths for 2/6d) to detail the voids. Only the nosewheel bay is clear on a few internet images I found. It wasn't too difficult to drill plasticard and cut into strips after marking the plastic with a riveting tool and then drilling every second hole with a drill made from a 1mm Hypo Needle. A drill made from a hollow needle gives a very clean cut, I grind the end down to a 30 degree (ish) angle on wet and dry paper. The pressure vessels are 1/72 torpedo bodies from a Nimrod. These areas are well weathered to depict a harrier flown from rough ground. The kit mainwheel well has detail on the backside (in the engine bay) so I invented appropriate looking ribbing, boxes and tubing (I only bought the cheap Artistic License) this was then painted and weathered. It was at this point, when the fuselage was starting to fill up that I could test fit the wing assembly and decided to fix the wing in place. I cut out one access panel to show some engine detail as can be seen on the finished model. All the various vents and intakes on the fuselage were cut out and backed with foil from an old electric razor - the fine mesh was ideal. The nose camera had a similar treatment, a lens was made from scrap sprue, mounted on a bracket in the hole and then blocked with foam until painting was finished. The window was afterwards formed from ‘Clearfix’. The kit vinyl tyres look very realistic after a rub down with wet 800 grade paper, turning them a very accurate dark grey. The undercarriage legs are fairly well detailed, the nose wheel benefits from a small bracket for the lamp, some electrical cabling and hydraulic tubes. These were well weathered to represent the dirt kicked up from rough ground and oil leakage. The fit of the huge fuselage halves proved to be excellent, the little filling necessary required my favourite slurry of cyano and talc. I found that a 1mm hypodermic needle was the same diameter as the Airfix rivets and was used to recreate those lost. I cut square and sharpened a short length of hypo tube and glued it into a paintbrush handle. After drawing lines for the missing rivets this improvised tool was ideal for re-cutting the missing detail, initially easy to do, after completing a few hundred the novelty wears a bit thin. The wingtip ‘puffers’ are not really represented and need cutting out and boxing in before detailing, The same applies to the auxiliaries surrounding the main intakes, these are lightly sprung and drop under gravity on harriers at rest. I cut out the engraved panel lines and constructed a long square tube from 1mm card, cut unto short lengths and bonded in they could easily be sanded flush and filled to neaten the finish. The .5mm plasticard flaps themselves were cut to fit and glued in at appropriate angles. Onto the canopy, this is a very thin and crystal clear moulding, the windshield only lacks the wiper which is easily build from brass wire and a sliver of card for the blade. I traced the outline of the detonation cord on a scrap of balsa and pushed pins where the cord bends, it was relatively easy to wind solder around this and then rest it inside the canopy. Using Pledge floor wax I glued the solder in place. I cut 1mm strips of white decal paper to lay on the inside to form the sealant band and dipped the whole thing in Pledge and covered it to dry for a few days. The canopy was them masked, painted and put away for a few months until needed. The fit of the sealant looks uneven because it's on the inside of the canopy! after masking and painting the camouflage it looks very real. The windshield was masked the wiper added and the whole assembly glued in place with pva, it fits perfectly and needed no other work. The most awkward job proved to be the hot and cold nozzles, the kit ones have a joint in the worst place possible and are smooth all over. The real ones have riveted vanes inside and ribbed plates on the outside (strengthening I assume) these were made from .5mm card, bonded with Mek and then wet sanded to blend them in. These took A LOT of filling, smoothing and fiddling to get them looking something like. I painted them with Tamiya Aluminium, fading into Titanium at the hot end and then thin coats of Tamiya Clear Orange for heat staining. The saving grace is that the moulded exhaust halves are very thin and very nicely contoured. The underwing stores needed some extra detailing, mostly small plates and panels, the pylons however are blank, I made beer can tin templates for the panel lines needing scribing, as eight sides needed detailing this was the best method to achieve consistency. The cut-outs for sway braces were there but I needed to add the braces themselves from 2mm square pieces of plasticard drilled to accept short lengths of .5mm brass wire. As with all the other bits, the pylons, rocket launches, fuel tanks and Aden gun packs were painted, decaled, weathered and put away for use. By now I had a box crammed full of sub assemblies, moving to major works on the airframe was a relief! The overall shape is very good and considering the Harrier is one of those aircraft without a straight line anywhere the Airfix surveyors & drawing office did an amazing job in 73/74. The contours are very well captured and the fit of the fin is so good only a line of thin cyano is needed to hide the joint. The final hurdle, painting the beast. I used a cheap black aerosol car undercoat for the fuselage (it looked great all black!) all the seams were checked and luckily only a few needed filling. On a large scale model I prefer a dark undercoat as I paint the topcoats using a very thin mix and spray at low pressure. In this way I can work closely painting each panel from the centre outward. I find this gives me much better control over a weathered finish and avoids the toy like look of weathering that is even and precise all over. The mixture (mostly Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics) were thinned 50/50. Tamiya thins well with my invented mix mentioned earlier. Vallejo needs water to thin it (or their own thinner). I think Vallejo paint has Polyurethane in the mix and Isopropanol thinners create an instant jelly monster in your airbrush that needs Professor Quatermas to remove it successfully. The paint applied in this manner on a dark ground will look alarmingly patchy, it is also quite fragile. The magic happens with a coat of Pledge floor wax (known as 'Klear' in the colonies). One coat immediately blends the colours and darkens the paint to look like the colours on the tin. It also toughens the finish. Another 3 coats and a polish with a clean dry j-cloth and the monster was ready for decaling! Incidentally, most of the painting on this model was completed with a cheap £25 Chinese airbrush (cheap but beautifully made, sprays anything and is easy to clean). My Badger Renegade Velocity has never lived up to it's macho name and has been completely rebuilt twice in twelve months and was out of action for the third time during this build. I'm afraid the airbrush body is made from a hard anodised but VERY soft brass and the needle mechanism was so badly made Badger themselves described it as 'pants' and sent a replacement. The engineering and build quality is worse than the Chinese £25 special; I'll never buy Badger again... The Airfix Cartograph printed decals are superb, dense, thin and in perfect register. They settled onto every contour and panel line to perfection. Two more coats of Pledge on top and the whole was put away for a week to harden. I weathered and highlighted the panel lines and rivets with Flory Models 'Dark Dirt' wash, this is an absolute pleasure to use and is one of the very few recent products that are genuinely innovative and make finishing simpler. After drying, excess wash was wiped away with a new damped J-Cloth & cotton buds dealt with the tight corners. All those sub assemblies were now added with 5 minute epoxy, cyano and PVA for the canopy before a final post shading with Tamiya smoke thinned with 75% pure Isopropanol. After everything set the whole monster had a couple of coats Windsor and Newton matt varnish, this needs a few days to cure properly but is very matt and very tough. The post shading, dirtying process, paint chips were all completed after decaling. Some of the decals were weathered slightly around the edges to depict paint wear. The dark aircraft grey is a self mix and has a little blue added, if you look at period Harrier images, you will find mixtures of both hard and soft edge camouflage schemes, I like the look of soft demarcation and went for that. I have an old publication from 1982 'The RAF in Colour', there are hard and soft edged camo aircraft from the same squadron in the book! The decals needed only a little softening with dilute acetic acid to settle them onto the Pledge glossed paintwork. And there it is, after 39 years and 7 months I finally built and finished the big harrier. I've always been fascinated by the Harrier it was one of the first aircraft I can remember seeing that seemed to have an 'organic' look to it, no straight lines. Those huge intakes and the pilot seemingly sat in a 'pod' in front of the aircraft had a real 'science fiction' appeal to a youngster brought up on Gerry Anderson programmes. Airfix caught the 'hunkered down' look of the early Harrier to perfection. Oh yes, and all the wheels stood on the ground together when finished. The build was aided by, Radio 3, 4, 4 extra, BBC6 Music, Stuart Maconie's Freak Zone, Amon Duul II, Hawkwind, Faust, Can, Black Sabbath, Falkenbach, Van der Graaf Generator and far too many other unremarkable heroes to mention. The whole experience was an absolute joy and will always rank as a favourite build, it’s also the first model of mine in 40 years to be on a stand!
  8. This project started many years ago. I had many set back with ( mainly of my own making) Having a look back at older pictures of this build I was surprised to find out I started it in July 2004! The base kit was a 1/48 Hasegawa Falcon 10, I was able to use most of the fuselage and wings which scaled out perfectly in 1/72 for this build. The engines are resin made by Fred Harris in Oz, He had already scratch built his own kit. Having worked on these during my time in the RAAF I had to have a model of one. Since starting this build 2 kits of the Falcon 900 have been released, a vacform form Broplan and a resin kit form VAMI. Anyway it is great to finally have this finished.
  9. Dassault Falcon 900

    Some years ago I decided to build a model of all the aircraft I had worked on or flown in in the RAAF. At the time there was no kit available of the Falcon 900 in any scale. I had heard of someone using the Hasegawa 1/48 Falcon 10 as a base for the build in 1/72. So I had a crack at it. After a lot of cutting of plastic and filler I got it to this state Over the years it has got renewed attention as I realaised shape issues or figures out how to tackle a problem I had been having with it. So here we are again with renewed interest. I have again pulled it down from the shelf of doom and paid some attention to it. This time around I am refining the stub wings for the engines an starting to add some detail. So what is left? Scribing some detail into the wings, entry and baggage doors and the engine servicing panels. So ihave started to pencil in some of the lines I have to add. How far will I get this time, who knows I might even finish it this time around
  10. 1/144 F117 Stealth Fighter Intakes help

    Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen, I've been pottering about with the Revell F117 Stealth Fighter kit in 1/144 and am about to start the build. The kit is OK, nothing special and to my not very discerning eyes seems accurate enough for me. The only really nasty innacuracy I can see, apart from the sensor or whatever it is below the cockpit glass are the intakes. Revell, bless them, have provided two perfectly formed plastic waffles to cover the intakes with. While they may keep the aircrew fed and happy, they do nothing for the kit. On the real aircraft the intakes seem to be some sort of mesh. Has anyone got any quick and easy ideas to replicate these in the completely mahoosive scale of 1/144... I can scratchbuild, or even try some PE.... Open to any suggestions! Cheers everyone, Viv
  11. I haven't looked around this topic much yet, so maybe my question is already answered. I want to build an east coast maritime Canadaian lobster boat. They range in lengths up to about 40". I want to de the more simpler ones, not the big ones since I don't have access to them except on vacation one week of the year and I'm land locked in Winnipeg. My main question is making the hull. More recent ones are fibreglass and some even gelcoat, older ones were traditional wood. I gaven't done any ship scratchbuilding yet and I'm not perfect with vac forming and wood carving. I do have a decent belt sander and a friend who does home renovations with a good amount of wood tools.Just looking for suggestions. If you do a search for maritime Canada, east coast lobster boats, Nova Scotia, PEI, etc, you'll see them. Each region of each province has it's own little variation.
  12. I'm rather pleased with this one: Diamond T 968/ William Bros 'SnoFlyr' rotary snowplough. Used by the RAF from about 1943, originally developed for the US Navy, these were versions of a civilian highway model, themselves versions of a railway design. The chassis was cut a little shorter at the front, and obviously the winch & front bumper assembly left off. The support frame assembly was scratch-built. The Rotary Snowplough was scratch-built using plasticard and microstrip and rod. There are some pictures on the web of this unit attached to a FWD HAR-1, and I used these pics and a copy of January 1946 edition of Popular Mechanics (bought on the web) to produce a scale(-ish) drawing. The engine cover on the rear was again scratch-built using plasticard. Most of the RAF examples had a Coventry Climax R6 engine to power the snowplough, through a transfer case, and provide hydraulic power for the controls and lifting gear. The chap was from one of the many Airfix RAF vehicle sets. I reshaped head and hands to represent a woolly hat and gloves, and added a tissue paper(+PVA glue) leather jerkin (the famous 'Don R'), on which I tried to represent the wind. The colour scheme is basically US Olive Drab, mixed to Mike Starmer's spec. At this stage of the war the RAF didn't re-paint vehicles until they needed it- so most RAF vehicles would've been in the colours they were supplied in. I sprayed Humbrol Glosscote over it, applied the decals and a light blackwash, and finished with a coating of Humbrol Mattcote. I did a quick dusting of artists pastels to get the snow effect. The base was a spare piece of cotton glued onto the base and covered in a filler called 'OneTime' this is a lightweight decorators filler (uses micro balloons) designed to fill deep holes and dry quickly. AS you can see it dries really white, and rock hard.
  13. Hi all, Well this only took me four months due to uni and holiday etc, but it's finished at last! A bit about the build, I wanted to build a hack aircraft that was a bit different; being a Spitfire enthusiast, any aircraft related to a Spitfire squadron was of particular interest, moreover late war (1944-1945) is mostly where my interest lies. I had previously come across this Bf-108 that was impressed into RAF/RCAF service sometime in 1945, the airframe is presumed to be ex-civilian (white tyre walls), maybe used by the Luftwaffe, very little is known about the aircraft's true history over than it ended up as an RAF/RCAF hack. With such a nice colour scheme and fitting the time period in which I'm most interested, I couldn't resist. The kit is Heller's old and basic Bf-108, I attempted to remedy some issues such as the raised panel lines by doing a full rescribe and squaring off the horizontal stabilisers, I also decided to scratch build an Argus AS-10 engine to sit upfront - this required a bit of body work, including plunge moulding an engine cowl. A new fixed pitch prop was sought and extra attention was paid to the navigation lights (made out of clear sprue). WIP Overall I am pleased with the result Thanks for looking, here's my next project Ben
  14. I have had this in my stash for many years, it was once started and got partly assembled and even had the first coat of (incorrect) blue. It was then put aside and left to fester. I was then browsing the web (as you do) and came across some fine pictures of a wasp. This got me thinking as I do like the look of this ungainly beast. I originally thought of building up a 1:72 Airfix Scout which is also languishing in my stash but thought the work would be too great especially on my poor eyes and the conversion set is $$$$$$$$ and in my opinion not that great. Then I remembered I had this monster. The Fujimi Wasp! I think the kit is slightly underscale (1:50 has been quoted). That won’t bother me too much as most of the building will be according to the Mk 1 eyeball. I shall use the proportion of the kit to gauge how big things should be (I currently have a vision of something akin to Homer Simpsons car design as an end result!). I have some good references about on the web and a decent walk around on this site, also there are numerous references for the scout which will provide assistance for the engine, gearbox and rotor head area. I have a shed load of plastic sheet available and I have a feeling I shall be using most of it! So onto which Wasp? My late father served on HMS Minerva in the 70’s alongside Prince Charles so I thought this would be a good start. It will be XT788 (424) of the ships flight around 1973 when they were deployed to the med and Caribbean. Unfortunately I am on the wrong side of the Atlantic to get access to my dad’s photo albums but I think there is enough on the web to see me right. Now I am not aware of any aftermarket decal sets for a 1:48ish Wasp so if anyone knows any different let me know, but in the mean time I shall have to make it up as I go along. So what have I got to start with? I managed to split the parts apart without too much damage. The basic kit is not too bad in shape and basic detail on the fuselage. Here she is post splitting, I forgot to take a shot of here in her former (not so) glory. I did get one modification right on my original build. I moved the cyclic stick to a better position as opposed to being out by the quarter light. You can see the original hole below, that would have caused some flight control problems! And the remaining in the box Most of the original plastic is useable I have no idea what is going on with this center console. It has no real resemblance to err anything! The floor is also covered in some sort of non skid pattern which is also wrong.The seats will have to go as well, although I shall use the rough size and shape to gauge the scratch built items. Not sure about the block of lego on the back! So starting off it’s a new floor and a new console from plastic card. The console is roughly assembled and needs a bit of tarting up. Just as an insight into what lays ahead this is the engine: and the gear box and transdeck area: Next up will be to do each individual panel on the centre conlsole with various switches and knobs. Lets see how this goes! Cheers now Bob
  15. GEMINI-TITAN II LAUNCH COMPLEX 19 1:144 scale diorama source - NASA 2015 is the 50th anniversary of the first two-manned space flight using the Gemini space capsule on a Titan II launch vehicle. The launch of the first manned Gemini craft took place with Gemini 3 on 23rd March 1965; two previous launches were unmanned; with the purpose to test all systems and functionalities of the Gemini and Titan II rocket system. To celebrate this anniversary I am going to attempt to build a 1:144 scale diorama of the launch complex at Cape Canaveral as it was in 1965. This launch pad was No.19, commonly referred to as LC-19, and this will be a total scratchbuild. The Titan II rocket and Gemini capsule will be a resin model produced by Anigrand. The components for LC-19 will be constructed from plastic sheets and rods with the main items being: Main building/Launch Deck - the long structure in the photo Complete Vehicle Erector (CVE) - the tower to the left of the Gemini-Titan rocket with the White Room on top (angled for lowering). Complete Vehicle Umbilical Tower (CVUT) - the tower immediately to the right of the Gemini-Titan rocket Second Stage Vehicle Thrust Mount (SSVTM) - the second stage launcher base (grey), in front of Gemini-Titan rocket Spacecraft Crane - the small crane, to the far right of the Launch Deck, for lifting the Gemini capsule from the ground to the Launch Deck. I was going to enter this in the Non-Injected Moulded Group Build; however, the complexity of this build makes it highly unlikely that I could finish it within the GB timeframe. There is very little data, as in actual dimensions and specific measurements for this site, so much of the placements and fittings will need to be deduced from photographs obtained from the web, including Google Earth etc. That's the lead-in for this not-so-little project of mine and I hope I can actually accomplish what I intend to achieve; especially with the limited references and plans available. Thanks for looking Mike
  16. I've always been keen on british subs, after seeing the fantastic efforts of other modellers on here I decided to have a go at a T boat. All parts were scratch built, and i learnt a lot during the build. Unfortunately i had some issues when priming the model which led to the paint cracking and ruining the finer detail. However like most of my scratch builds I plan on rebuilding them once my skills have developed. I may also fork out for the loose cannon waterline kits to improve the overall quality. Cheers Alex
  17. Men At Work

    Ever had a project materialize in your head so quickly that you have the tools out before it's even finalised? Happened to me today. This will be a figure of a sandblaster, built from scratch with my usual method - wire, foil, Milliput. The raison d'etre of the project is the hood that our sandblaster wear, quite different from the usual models and looking deliciously steampunk. I'm keeping it a secret for now. There's a second reason - the roll of Milliput is going off. Does it happen to you as well? The grey roll develops a tan 'bark' on it that won't mix, won't harden, and will play hell with the subsequent operations of sanding, scribing, etc. So I'm using it for the bulk of the figure, reverting to a new roll or better yet Superfine White when it comes the time to add detail. The starting materials, plus a Dylan Dog figure that I converted from a Tamiya Virago rider and will use for proportions: One thing good about this project, it's cheap. The wire comes from discarded calendars, the foil is likewise salvaged. Usually I do with heavier wire gauges, eg metal hangers or the green garden variety, but this one did well. "AAAH! IT'S A WIRE MAN! THE GUN, GROUCHO, THE GUN!" I tightened the wire with - guess what - more wire. This was a nonfunctional net cable. I have enough copper at home that it might be valuable for reselling, but don't tell the burglars. It's The Attack of the Foil Mummies. Okay, enough with the jokes... The first layer of Milliput with many more to follow. Don't worry about the stiff pose, I'm repositioning the arms later. The darker specks are fragments of the 'bark' I was talking about. If someone knows a way to deal with it, please let me know - as of now I can only trim it, and always remain with excess yellow putty that gets thrown away. Okay, I'm letting that cure for now. Ta, Bone
  18. Hi folks, I've been messing around assembling some GW stuff since I finished the Viper but haven't really got my teeth into anything. And then I spotted an interesting part in a kit, turned it upside down, and went and got my big Chris Foss book out... I've wanted to build some '70s or '80s sci-fi for a while and this should scratch that itch. The part I found (can you spot what it is?) looks great when inverted as an under-slung bridge. I did a couple of designs around this - one as a tug or recovery vehicle, with a hexagonal body and arms sticking out the front, and one as a more conventional starship with a pyramidal body. I taught myself to use Sketchup (very basically) at the weekend and worked out the dimensions, so last night I was able to cut some parts and tape them up: The core is a plate of 2mm styrene, and the rest is 1mm. I laid it out with a ruler and dividers, taking the dimensions from the Sketchup model, and cut the parts out with a Tamiya scriber. Amazingly, it fits quite well despite the model not accounting for thickness. I did have to build a second version of the rear plate though since my first attempt had the angles very slightly out. The idea is to cover it in plating and nurnies (flat ones on the surface, dense ones in the notch around the bridge) and paint it with bold stripes! First of all though, I need to cut out various access hatches and internal access holes, then make the bulkheads to fix the angled plates to the core. Cheers, Will
  19. CONFISERIE

    Hey everyone. So my latest project was this small vignette I made completly from scratch. The vignette is 1/72 scale with diameter of 6cm. The solider and a dog are from the old pack of Revell figures. The base was made on the old cover of mustard dishes. I love to work with natural elements to achieve the wanted realism, that's why I used real wood,rocks and soil. The house was made from the balsa wood and then covered with a putty. I used AK paints and washes. For the reference photos I used photos from ruined city of Saint Lo in 1944. I am very happy with the result because this was the first time I built the ruins on vignette. Anyways, here are the photos and I hope you guys will like it Cheers from Slovenia, Gašper Podbregar
  20. Hello everyone, this is my first post on this lovely forum. I didn't know where to put this diorama with Hansa-brandenburg B.I by Legato kits so I decided to post it here, I hope it's OK. This model was a nightmare so Im not really happy with a result but Im happy that is finally behind me :-\. Diorama was built from scratch, The tree was made of a copper wire and putty, The bench, well and other wooden elements were made of balsa wood,the axe was made of shaving razor, I used a NOCH grass for rail models and for the leaves I used a home-grown dried spices. The Figures of mechanic and a civilian is by Preiser, also in scale 1:72. All in all it was a quite fun build Here's the result: CHEERS FROM SLOVENIA, regards Gašper Podbregar
  21. Hi! Simply-scratchbuild in 1/48 scale
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