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Hi all. I've finished this last week and it's taken me a couple of months slow time. It's out of the box bar the data pod on the wing tip. There is no more to do to the kit, but I am going to put a pilot in it when I get one. I've chosen to model it engines running, hence the aux doors open and as intended from 1979. It's a simple kit enough and a design of its day. There's not much out there if you chose to detail it up. Kit decals were fine but I had a torrid time with the gloss varnish (W&N) I use. Perhaps it's going off. I glossed the model and putting the decals on, once dry it was obvious there was silvering. I've done the usual remedies which worked to a point. However we lost our 2nd dog within 12 weeks of the 1st, to cancer again so my heart wasn't really in it. This kit must be my nemesis as I've tried to build one twice before and it beaten me. Anyway it's done and never again. Thanks for looking Steve.

Sometimes I cheat on my Luftwaffe planes with USN a/c, although, an F4F was actually my first ever 1/48 scale kit. Last effort: the Revell Dauntless. Besides my fascination with carrier aviation, I also wanted to use this kit to try out weathering with oil paints. It came out, well, let's say allright - with much room for improvement. and it goes nicely with my collection so far, especially on the flight deck (and YES I am aware that the flight deck is Japanese, but I couldn't get my hands on the US version ) As always, thanks for looking Cheers here's my collection from the "dark" side https://photos.app.goo.gl/od4agvy1tebuSm7L8

Back in 2014, I did the Boultbee Spitfire Introduction course at Goodwood. The course involved 70 minutes in a Chipmunk, followed by 40 minutes in a Harvard and a Spitfire Tr.9. The Harvard was this one: I've managed to do two models of the aircraft I flew in so far and this is the second of them. WIP is here: 1/48 SNJ Texan - Work in Progress - Aircraft - Britmodeller.com One last one with the last aircraft in the training continuum: I probably should've picked out the unpainted screws in the panels but time's against me. I needed to finish this by the end of the week as everything's going into store for an extended period after Christmas while we move to the Netherlands for a year or so. This classic Revell/Monogram kit was added to with Eduard P-51D wheels (most warbird T-6s use the Mustang wheels as they have disc brakes and anti-shimmy tailwheel tyres), Metallic Details CW-22B propeller (they're both Hamilton-Standard 2D30 props), Barracuda Studios spade grip in the front cockpit, Eduard details set (for the Occidental kit) that I used bits and pieces from and Microscale decals. Each letter and number is separate, so took a bit of mucking about! The decals on the engine cowl are from a 1/72 USAF C-130 that I had in the decals stash. None of the decals are the correct size but all are close. I made the antenna on the spine from a piece of metal rod and drilled out the pitot tube, added the ADF antenna on the belly from a modified Mirage III part and cut the elevators to show them drooped as they lock in that position on the ground. Unfortunately, the lovely artists' chalk white exhaust weathering I did on the port side disappeared with the Future clear coats; a phenomenon I experienced with the Lancaster, too despite the matt coat over them. I might need to use a different technique in future where white is used (no pun intended!) I didn't pick up until I was decalling that this particular T-6 doesn't use the standard tail nav lights on the vertical stabiliser and instead has a single one on the rudder. I wasn't about to go back and do it again! Enjoy! The Chipmunk still to come is the Heritage Models version I hunted down about a year before Airfix release their excellent version. Oh, well.

Hi all and latest finish for me, built for the 'Above the Karman Line" GB here on the forum. The short build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Revell Millennium Falcon 'Solo' version Scale: 1/164 Build: Out of box Paints: Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Flory Models Wash, W&N Satin Varnish Decals: Draw Decals for Fed Ex 757 Cargo Extras: A good friend 3D printed some cargo containers but haven't finished them yet. Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (6) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (5) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (9) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (8) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (7) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (10) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking, take care and happy Christmas! Cheers, Dermot

This is the Eurofighter from Revell's '60 Jahre Luftwaffe' set, but in its regular uniform without the festive decals. Thanks for looking! Luka

Hi all, Here's my Phantom FGR.2 that I finished this weekend. It's the Revell rebox of the Hasegawa kit (the original one, not the recent one), which we are all pretty familiar with. Not a bad kit, but I did replace some bits of it with aftermarket. The wheels are Aires, the seats are Quickboost, the pylons are from Aerobonus. I was planning to just use the old Airdoc RAF Germany Phantom decals, but they turned out to be not so good. Not in register, undersized, and some colours were a bit off to me. So I also got some from a Model Alliance set, stencils from Xtradecal, and a few from the kit sheet. Painted with Mr. Color. I went for 31 Squadron markings, mainly because you don't see those often. Thanks for looking, Pete

I should go with the flow and start a WIP for the next project. It will be a learning exercise for me in the use of chipping fluid and as Tex's plane was down to the skin it seems a good subject. So this is the old Revell model. Casey Paint has been mixed (thanks @Casey!). And more Titanium White has been bought (a big bottle this time!) Interesting wood effects on the cockpit floor... And the first trip to the spray booth. I'm aware of the godawful canopy so a mask set has been acquired and some spray masks for the US insignia as I imagine they will be as weathered as the rest of the plane and I'm not sure if you can weather decals.

A little project to extend my pretty meager "rockets in 1/72" collection. The Revell Germany A4 plus a scratchbuild WAC As always: thanks for looking Cheers

Basically built this Starfighter for its striking experimental blue scheme. Thanks for watching Luka

Another older work of mine, but I think FGN (Federal German Navy) ships are a bit underrepresented. Hence ... As always: thanks for looking Cheers

Another kit that I finished last year... I tried to change the shape of the cover over the helmet, but not really too succesful. Some little details added. I think the impression/atmosphere of the kit is quite good, accuracy is another issue As always, thanks for looking. Cheers P.S., yes I know Neil would have a hard time reading the checklist on his left arm. The watch is way too low - maybe I will change it - one day ....

Well it's all a bit late but I'd like to enter these two: and: they are both relatively modern, state of the art kits. The Revell mould seems tired and has a lot of flash, particularly round the open cowling flaps: Revell correctly gets the gun alignment parallel to the ground, Academy doesn't. But the elephant in the room is the huge difference in fuselage depth: The Revell one (lighter plastic) has a huge belly. Now I don't know for sure (Academy is a -D, Revell is an -M) but I (and the Internet) think that may be a mistake on Revell's part. More digging required... Regards, Adrian

It's that time of year again when I find all sorts of new projects making their way towards the workbench...! I know I have plenty on the go already, but most of these are awaiting paint which requires better weather - I spray outdoors and need warmer, drier conditions. As @Paulaero will understand, these other models are generally at least 95% built, which qualifies me to start on something new in the meantime! 😁 This build is partly a new challenge and a bit of repetition too. The new bit is refurbishing one of my older models and this will form the bulk of this thread. The repetition part is concurrently building two untouched Revell 767-300 kits, which I did here a couple of years ago and I don't see any point in documenting it here again! However, these kits will throw up a few challenges along the way (more on this when I get to those parts!), hence their inclusion into this thread. Let's start with the model to be refurbished. I would guess that I built it around 20 years ago, when my modelling skill set was rather more limited than it is now. It is the Revell 767-300, with RR engines and built to depict G-BNWA which I flew regularly at back in 2003. The model has been in the attic for years and I think it must have been dropped at some point too - luckily I still have most of the pieces: It's certainly been neglected and the attic did it no favours - it's covered in grime: The refurbishment will consist of the following tasks- 1. Open the fuselage up and fill the windows with Milliput 2. Removal of the damaged undercarriage and rebuild the model with the gear doors closed 3. Replacement of the missing windscreen (the only piece that I cannot find!) 4. Removal of the old paint and re-spraying with an accurate demarcation line and correct shade of blue 5. Production of custom decals to give the model a new identity To complete this introduction, the other two models in this build were purchased cheaply but with a few pieces missing. More importantly though, they both have the sprues for the RR engine option, so these will be built as BA aircraft. Here are the sprues: And another shot, showing the first task completed - Milliput is applied: It is well past its 'use by' date and quite dry and crumbly, but perfectly good enough for this job!

Volkswagen Corrado 35 Years Giftset (05666) 1:24 Carrera Revell The VW Corrado was a child of the late 80s, arriving in 1988 and based on the then-current Volkswagen A2 platform that could also be found under the Mk.2 Golf amongst others. It was a replacement for the Scirocco, but ran alongside it for around three years, with almost 100,000 made, half of which were sold in the US. It was designed as a 2 plus 2 sports hatchback, and for its time had classic lines that don’t look too out of date, even now. The bodyshell was partially zinc-plated, which kept the panels from rotting out as the years went by, although because of the nature of the car, many saw the wrong side of the hedge at some point in their lives, meaning that there is a dwindling stock available on the second-hand market today, with the price increasing as a result of that fact, and the nostalgia of those that would have liked one when they were in-production from 1988-95, of which I was one. The top-of-the-line VR6 had some components from the A3 platform, adding a new wider front-end to cater for the suspension and the additional bulk of the V6 that was either 2.8 or 2.9 litres if your budget would stretch to it, or you could have the G60, which was equipped with a supercharger mounted on a 1.8 engine, which wasn’t quite as fast as the VR6, which could get to 60mph either side of 7 seconds depending on the engine type. The base model 1.8L 16V wasn’t slow however, getting to 60mph in a respectable 9 seconds, but those two seconds make a lot of difference on the ground. Initial sales were slower than VW would have liked, partly due to the higher price when compared to the ageing Scirocco, which sold alongside the Corrado for three years, but anyone that had a hankering for some hi-tech gadgetry would have been enamoured with the spoiler on the rear of the sloped hatchback boot, which automatically deployed at 100kmh and drew admiring glances from those that were left in its wake, although whether it helped with handling is debatable, as all Corrados were front-wheel drive, so technically the airflow was putting more weight on the rear, thereby lifting the front wheels and reducing their traction. Still cool though. There was talk of the police being able to tell how fast you were going by whether the spoiler was deployed, and I have a feeling that its function was made selectable at some point, but as they have radar guns anyway, it didn’t deter many people. The last model in the US was in 1994, with Europe following on the next year, with no upgrade or replacement available in its place, which is a shame, as the Corrado had a good reputation and a stylish name that was gleaned from Spanish and roughly translated means sprinter. I’d still like one. The Kit This is a reboxing of the kit that was originally tooled in 1990 as a G60, complete with supercharger assembly under the bonnet, although it has been reboxed in the past as other variants, one the extremely rare Zender cabriolet that was released in 1991, just a year later. The kit is a celebration of 35 years since its launch, and arrives in an end-opening box with three sprues and the bodyshell in grey styrene, a clear sprue, a bag of four flexible black tyres, decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour and has the painting and decaling guide on the rear page. The package is completed by another bag containing six thumb pots of acrylic paint, a 12.5g bottle of Contacta Professional cement with a precision applicator, and a #2 brush without protector that had got a little bent out of shape. Detail is as you would expect for a kit that is almost as old as the 35-year anniversary that the giftset is intended to celebrate, and although some aspects of the model are slightly simplified, there is a full engine on the sprues, and with a little surgery you can ‘pop the hood’ to show off your work under the bonnet. Construction begins with the engine, starting with the cylinder head with integrated supercharger unit, applying a choice of two decals on the head after painting. This is then added to the top of the two-part block and transmission, and has the sump fitted underneath, installing the exhaust manifold under the supercharger at the rear of the transversely mounted engine, and fixing the distributor on the front, which you’ll need to wire up if you are planning on opening the bonnet. At the front of the engine, the air-intake path is connected to the supercharger on the left side, and at the other end of the block depicting the alternator, which is later supported by the front axle. The front of the floor pan is painted in preparation for engine installation, painting the inner arches in body colour, and the ancillaries in various other shades, plus black for the cover panels, and applying a decal to the top of the battery that is moulded into the left inner wing. The completed engine and front axle are then inserted from below into the space at the front, supporting the axle with a pair of coil-over shocks that are painted yellow in the centre. A scrap diagram shows that from the side the engine should be tilted back 5° from vertical, using the floor pan as datum. Underneath the pan, the exhaust with catalytic converter is inserted into a recess down the centreline, starting at the downpipe and ending at the forward muffler box, which is made from two halves, the visible portion having stiffening ribs moulded into its surface. The rear box has the entry pipe moulded into it, as well as the exhaust pipe, adding the stainless-steel tip, which is over-thick and will need thinning or replacing with a length of tube to improve realism, remembering that the tip is angled. The rear axle is mounted behind the front box, and fits snugly around the rear box, mounting on another pair of yellow coil-over shocks. The wheels are each made from three parts, consisting of a bland inner rim that you paint black inside to hide its presence, then gluing the visible alloy wheel design to the front and slipping the flexible black tyre over the assembly, the latter having a nice tread pattern moulded-in. There are some slight sink-marks in the surface of the alloy portion of the hub, which can be filled and sanded flush with a little care to protect the moulded-in details around the stud locations and logo. The finished wheels snap into position, then the radiator assembly is made up from the core moulded on a cross-member, with the fan trapped between it and the tin-work behind, lowering it into position at the front of the engine bay, and connecting a hose to the supercharger, then linking the air box to the intake trunking via a ribbed cylindrical structure. The front seats are both made from front and rear parts, and have two decals applied to the centre cushions to depict the pattern of the material on those portions. They are set aside while the interior tub is prepared, first painting the moulded-in scuttle at the front, the carpet, centre console, pedals and the integrated carpet mat under the driver’s feet, which are on the left side, sadly for the right-hand-drive fraternity. There is a choice of white or red Corrado logos to apply to the front carpets if you wish, depending on which colour you paint the carpets. The rear seats are painted and decaled, the gear shifter with gaiter and decal plus manual handbrake (remember those?) in the centre, and speaking of the centre console, there is a large sink mark at the front of this, but as it is covered by the dash panel later, who cares? The seats are installed on a pair of raised guides, fitting the door cards after painting them and detail painting the accents and latches for added realism. The dash is made from two parts, most of the detail is moulded into the vertical section, which has two decals applied for dials and heater details, then is topped off by the coaming, which has a pair of vents in the forward corners. The short steering column with stalks is inserted under the instrument binnacle, fitting the steering wheel to the top with a grey accent panel in the square centre boss, which is perhaps the most dated part of the car. The completed dash is inserted into the front of the cab, and here the diagrams initially seem to imply that there is a separate lower structure that is undocumented, but it is simply the shelf under the dash, which has had its connecting ends mostly obscured by the red location arrows. The completed interior can then be joined to the floor pan, mounting on rails and locating via the exhaust tunnel. The bodyshell has its upper interior painted black, except for the roof, which is painted a dark grey to match the accent material, and the bonnet is also painted black if you plan to open it up for viewing, which is shown in the next step, although only after the deed has been done, and you have taped it back into place, presumably to keep the bodyshell from deforming during handling. The rear of the shell has a pair of inserts fitted into the light cluster cut-outs, and these may need trimming of flash, then painting with your shiniest silver or chrome colour to reflect some light back through the clear lenses installed later, which are painted red, amber and left transparent where the reversing lights are. The trim around the doors, windows and screens are all painted black, assuming you have painted the shell red (other colours are available), adding more black paint to the clear part to depict the trim at the bottom of the windscreen and on the B-pillars. The clear part is inserted from within the shell, and the body is then fixed to the floor pan, leaving the front side windows without glass, as is common with many car models. The rear bumper is added under the boot at the same time as the rear light cluster mentioned earlier, then the front bumper with black valance is fitted with clear lenses under the main lights, fixing it in place, then adding the grill and integrated light backing strip under the bonnet. These lens backings are flat, and should be painted chrome to reflect the light before you fit the headlamp lenses. If you have cut the bonnet loose from the bodyshell, the tape can be undone and the bonnet removed so that you can install the slam panel, and a dash pot on the rear bulkhead, then the bonnet is glued in place at an angle, but a stay isn’t provided, so check your references and make one up from wire or rod that fits the bill. The two windscreen wipers are fitted to the clear windscreen, so take care with your choice of glue so that it doesn’t fog the screen around it. Another wiper is fitted to the rear screen too, and the wing mirrors are built from the shell plus clear mirror, which you should paint chrome on the back side to maximise reflectivity of the part in the same manner as a real mirror. The final task is to stretch a length of sprue to create the radio antenna that fixes to a base glued to the rear of the roof at an angle, which helps the car look fast even when standing still. Markings There is only one set of marking for this model, but the main differences between individual cars is the body colour and the number plate, of which there is a wide choice from various countries. From the box you can build the following: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt and gloss carrier film, which varies between individual decals, and is cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion I was a big fan of the Corrado when it launched, and still have a soft-spot for it, even today. The model is a little on the old side, but it’s also the only game in town, so I’m planning on building it. If you’re looking for an upgrade to the detail, you could consider the transkit from Whitechocolate124. Highly recommended, despite its age. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Hello everyone, I live about a 10 minute car ride from the Möhne dam, so naturally I had to build a dambuster. I did, about 15 years ago, the Revell one (others hard to get here). Not the newer version that happened to turn up in stores a few months after, but the decade-old animal with no interior (just like with my B-17). I did some upgrading, without any AM parts but strickly selfmade. Well, almost, I got a spare pilot seat from my pal who had a new "normal" Lanc, and I peeked into his instructions for building an interior. The crew was on board, although the only visible thing of the radioman was a piece of yellow lifvest through the window. After that, I moved several times, and the model disappeared in a box. About 2 weeks ago, I got to, well, upgrade my show-cupboard, suddenly had lots of empty room, and while looking for things to place there stumbeled upon the Lancaster. By accident I got the idea for a display... and here it is. A plank with half a plastic chopstick. Horribly silvered decals. So be it. No time to upgrade, didn't want to wait half a year for the full anniversary. ) No, you haven't had a pint too many... one focus on the pilot and flight engineer, the other on the maps of the navigator. The cockpit hood (is that correct with such a big thing?) had come loose during storage, and in an unfortunate accident the radioman went AWOL. I got him of course, but there's no way to get him sit at his post again. I decided to do Gibson's plane. Starting with the wooden stand, I wasn't sure if I had a good idea or if it'd turn out absolutely hideous. Actually, I'm rather pleased with it. What do you think? RRRROOOAAAAARRRRing across the water towards the dam... That's all (for now, might redo some things, like the prop discs), Johnny Tip out. (No mention of the codeword for success? ... No.)

Talk softly and carry a big gun. Here's my latest completion, the Revell (ex-Dragon) Bf110C, with the AIMS conversion set used to modify it into the C-6 version with the 30mm MK.101 cannon and marked as one of the aircraft used by Erprobungsgruppe 210 in the summer of 1940. To the base kit and conversion were added the Quickboost exhausts, Red Fox Studios 3D instruments and radio gear fronts,the HGW seatbelts and interior/exterior mask set and LF models mask for the camouflage pattern. Revell re-jigged the Dragon instruction sheet which made it easier to follow but included quite a few errors, omissions and just-plain-headscratching assembly choices; I did my best with it and deviated where I thought it prudent and I pretty much got away with it I think. I found building the kit to be absorbing, at times a bit frustrating, but overall I enjoyed it to the extent that I have started on a second one, and now have a third in the stash (the Hobby 2000 Bf110D). Mistakes were made. Some of my work was down to its usual shonky standard and the camouflage pattern on the port side is just wrong, I made the mistake of thinking it would be possible to fit the wings right at the end and only realised then that I had obviously misplaced some of the camouflage masks. Still, in the end I got it finished and that's a long-awaited one off my 1/32 bucket list. Paints were Colourcoats ACLW12 - RLM Grau (RLM 02) for the interiors, ACLW03 - Hellblau (RLM 65) for the undersides and the top surface camo was ACLW02 – Schwarzgrun and ACLW11 - Dunkelgrun (RLM71). The blue on the prop spinners was a mix of Citadel acrylic blues mixed as close as I could to the blue on the aircraft code letter. Oh yes, one more for scale: Cheers, Stew

Hi all! Here is my latest production, it is actually a very old kit from the 1990s. The Dragon kit of the Dornier Do 335 has been revived several times in recent years: by Revell and lately by Hobby 2000 but the kit is always the same. A kit with a very fine detail and well made but with a quite complicated construction. The Revell kit also has unclear instructions and horrible decals! As always i used a set of mask and a PE sheet from Eduard and Gunze Mr Hobby Colors. Hope you'll like it!

Messerschmitt Bf.109G-6 Easy-Click System (03653) 1:32 Carrera Revell With almost 34,000 examples constructed over a 10-year period, the Messerschmitt Bf.109 is one of the most widely produced aircraft in history and it saw active service in every theatre in which German armed forces were engaged. Designed in the mid-1930s, the Bf.109 shared a similar configuration to the Spitfire, deploying monocoque construction and V12 engine, albeit an inverted V with fuel injection rather than a carburettor as used in the Spit. Initially designed as a lightweight interceptor, like many German types during WWII, the Bf.109 evolved beyond its original brief into a bomber escort, fighter bomber, night fighter, ground-attack and reconnaissance platform. The Bf.109G series, colloquially known as the Gustav, was first produced in 1942. The airframe and wing were extensively modified to accommodate a more powerful engine, greater internal fuel capacity and additional armour. In contrast to early 109s, which were powered by engines delivering less than 700hp, some of the later Gustavs could output almost 2000hp with water injection and high-performance superchargers. The Gustav series accounted for a dizzying array of sub-variants, some of which featured a larger tail of wooden construction. Odd number suffixed aircraft had pressurised cockpits for high altitude operation, Erla Haube clear view canopy with clear rear head armour, underwing points for tanks, cannon or rockets and larger main wheels resulting in square fairings on the inner upper wings to accommodate them. The Kit This is a new tooling from Carrera Revell, but it isn’t a traditional plastic model kit, instead it is one of their Easy-Click system, but unlike any that we have seen previously, as it snaps together in a manner similar to the famous Lego bricks. The kit arrives in a standard end-opening box with a render of the finished product on the front, and inside are five sprues of parts, one grey, one green, two light blue, and one black, each one ready to clip together once cut from the sprue. There is also a clear sprue with a single canopy part, a sheet of decals, a sheet of stickers, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour and has decaling and sticker application guides on the rear. Each part joins to the other by friction fit, and each location turret has a corresponding circular receiver, and here an issue has crept in that might concern a “serious” modeller, as some of the receivers have resulted in shallow sink marks in the self-coloured plastic, which is most evident on the green coloured plastic. I suspect that we’re not the intended audience however, as this is an ideal method of introducing modelling to a younger person, removing paint and glue from the equation, but keeping the cutting of parts from the sprues, and giving them a choice of decals or stickers, depending on their skill level or impatience. Construction begins with the main landing gear, which are made up from two parts including the wheel, and can be lowered or retracted thanks to a short axle at the top of the legs. They are placed in the lower wing halves, and each wing is fitted to a central black former that has some of the cockpit detail moulded-in, including the control column. The wing roots are added, with optional painting instructions for the more advanced modeller, fitting the seat back into the cockpit, then surrounding it by two cockpit sides. The exhaust stubs are fixed to the front of the central former, and is surrounded by cowling parts on both sides and under the chin, adding another panel under the wings, hiding the central former. The instrument panel has two decals to apply, and this is inserted into the front of the cockpit, fixing the supercharger intake on the port side of the fuselage, then fitting the upper cowling gun troughs, the black barrel insert, and the rear cowling in front of the cockpit. The upper wing parts are then clipped into place in green and grey to create the splinter camouflage out to the rounded tips of the wings, trapping the gear legs in position at the same time. The starboard side of the rear fuselage is clipped into position on the central former, then a black extension is added, and locked in place by the port rear fuselage side, pausing to clip the canopy into the upper fuselage part, which has recesses to accept the moulded-in framework, which has caused a little distortion of the clear parts. The centre former is extended again with a short part that includes the tail wheel, closed in by more tapering fuselage sections, then adding a short length of spine in green, and the tail fin on both sides of the centre, filling in the rest of the spine and slotting the elevators into a groove in the tail fin, then finishing off with the rudder. To complete the model, the three-bladed prop is clipped onto the axle, and a spinner tip completes the prop. Underneath, a two-part drop-tank plugs into a two-hole recess after clipping the two halves together. Markings There is one scheme in the box, but as there are decals and stickers included, the process is shown twice, as the numbers differ between the sheets. Even though this is an Easy-Click kit, there is still a good number of stencils and other markings, so your model will have plenty of visual interest once completed. From the box you can build the following: The decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin satin carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This kind of kit is a great introduction to modelling for today’s impatient youth, who probably wouldn’t even notice the slight sink marks on some parts. Recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

My first KUTA 2023 subject, this is the 2009 issue Revell 1/8th scale Apollo : Astronaut on the Moon. This boxing of the original 1970 kit was to mark the 40th anniversary of the original moon landing, it was also released again 10 years later to mark 50 years. 20231108_221152 by Ghostbase, on Flickr I remember starting this kit just after I purchased it at a reduced price from Modelzone. I think I read somewhere that it was originally produced as a vacform kit; this would make sense becase there are very few parts however they are quite large and made of very thin plastic. The reason I stopped building it was because of the join of the parts. I had added filler then decided to paint over the sanded joins with enamel white. I then decided to add another coat of primer and this reacted with the enamel paint to give a 'frizzy' effect. 20231109_141507 by Ghostbase, on Flickr This has been on the shelf of shame for about 12 years, lets see if I can do a better job this time 🙂 Michael

C-54D Skymaster (05652) 75th Anniversary Berliner Luftbrücke Airlift 1:72 Carrera Revell After the DC-3, Douglas began working on a design for group of major airline companies that was designated the DC-4, but it wasn’t quite to their liking, being less reliable and uneconomical than they would have liked, resulting in a design with a smaller airframe to meet their needs. War intervened, and the balance of the contract was taken up by the military under the name C-54 Skymaster, where it was used to transport cargo and personnel, with many variants with specific tasks such as Air Sea Rescue. The aircraft served throughout the war, and well into post-war through Korea, plus with many civilian operators, some of which flew into the 90s. There are still a few around at time of writing in museums and such. After the end of WWII and the former capital of Hitler’s Reich was split between the four main Allied powers, despite being located well behind the border of what became the Russian sector of Germany, which eventually became known as East Germany, or the German Democratic Republic. The Soviet Union quickly transitioned from Allies to enemy due to mutual distrust, which signified the beginning of the Cold War that dragged on until the early 90s. A land corridor was used by the Western Allies to supply their sector of Berlin, but this was blockaded by the Soviets in the summer of 1948, who generously offered to remove it if the Allies withdrew the newly introduced Deutschmark from the Allied occupied sectors. The Allies weren’t willing to give in to their demands however, and plans were made to supply Berlin by air, in the hope that the Soviets wouldn’t dare shoot down unarmed transport aircraft. They were right, and for the next fifteen months, the seemingly impossible task of supplying the city was accomplished by the Allies, with the C-54 involved, with around 330 airframes taking part. The airlift wasn’t without cost however, and over 100 pilots and crew died in accidents relating to operation of the airlift, several of them crews of Skymasters. The success of the operation became more embarrassing for the Soviets as the months rolled by, and eventually they lifted the blockade of their own volition, but the Allies carried on supply by air for some time after, in case the Soviets had it in mind to reestablish it, which had extended to road, rail and even canal transport. Berliners were extremely grateful, and there remains a Historical Foundation that maintains a museum to commemorate the actions of their former enemies, and they have a C-54 as one of their exhibits. The Kit To remember the 75th anniversary of the airlift, Revell have re-released their 2016 tooling of the C- 54D in a new box that includes four paints, a bottle of Contacta Professional glue and a #2 paint brush, plus a small bag of ten laser-cut plywood boxes to act as cargo for the model, all enclosed in a vastly over-sized top-opening box. There are also fourteen sprues of light grey styrene, a clear sprue, large decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour and has painting and decaling profiles on the rear pages. This is a modern tooling, and has plenty of detail in the cockpit, interior and gear bays, although the flying surfaces are joined to the airframe with T-shaped hinges that seem to be a throwback to an earlier time when models were also intended as play-things. If left mobile, drooping ailerons on both sides would be indicative of a control failure, so it might be a good idea to apply a little glue to freeze the controls in a manner to your liking. Construction begins with the nose gear bay for a change, building the two sides on the roof panel, which is also the floor of the cockpit, flipping it over to install the instrument panel with moulded-in centre console and a forward bulkhead, applying a decal to the panel after painting. A detail insert finishes off the console with moulded in throttle quadrants and other controls, plus a triangular coaming that joins the panel and bulkhead together. Both pilots get an L-shaped control column with separate yoke, handed toward the centre, and a trim wheel on each side of the central console, then their seats are made from two-part seat cushions with moulded-in four-point harnesses, while the third crew member has lap belts only. The pilots’ seats are then mounted on a two-part frame and fitted to the rails moulded into the cockpit floor, painting everything as you go. A bulkhead with a doorway is detailed with five parts and has two decals to add detail, then it is mounted on the front of the passenger/load compartment floor, which has some nice detail moulded into its surface. The bulkhead for the rear of the radio/engineering compartment is also detailed with four parts plus the third seat, and is fixed into the slot in the floor to create the space, with a scrap diagram showing how the detail parts should link to two bulkheads together. More detail is added in the shape of a short corridor and section of wall to deepen the bulkhead on both sides, one of which has a fire extinguisher moulded-in. Two cots insert into the right side of the bulkhead on tabs, and are locked in place at the other end by another bulkhead with separate door that can be posed open or closed, adding a roof section over the top between the bulkheads. Two runs of five canvas and webbing seats are made from two parts each, and placed in the load area just behind the bulkheads, enclosing the space with two inserts that have tons of ribbing detail moulded into them, with the option to cut out the side load door, which is marked out on the outside of the part. The rear bulkhead is stepped and closes the rear of the fuselage interior, and the cockpit with nose gear bay is glued to the front bulkhead, completing most of the work on the interior details. The nose gear strut is a complex affair made from seven parts and is inserted into the bay, the drawing for which has one wall rendered invisible to aid location of the assembly. The fuselage halves are fitted with portholes on a long clear carrier, painting the cockpit area in green, then detail-painting the equipment boxes and cutting out the half-circles over the cockpit that will later receive an astrodome. A set of flashed-over holes under the belly are also opened at this stage, and you have the option of posing the crew hatch open on the starboard side of the nose, then repeating the process on the port fuselage half, which has a few more individual portholes. The interior is glued into the starboard fuselage half, and you are instructed to add 60g of weight into the spaces in and around the nose where it won’t be seen, then a pair of curved spacers are mounted under the main floor, and an insert is put in place where the side cargo door is located. The fuselage can then be closed, at which point you realise this is quite a large model, even at 1:72. The lower wings are long and slender, and are moulded as a full-span part, with the main gear bays moulded into the inner engine nacelles, painting the interior in green, and removing the short length of sprue that supports the part during moulding and transport. Each of the four nacelles are closed at the front by circular engine mounts, being careful to arrange them correctly so that the exhaust outlets are on the outer sides. The inner nacelles have bulkheads inserted behind the new parts, fitting another to the rear of the bays, and inserting a roof segment into the rear, all of which is painted in interior green. The flaps can be posed deployed, or “cleaned-up” for flight, and if you wish to deploy them, you will need to remove the portions marked in grey on the lower wing, as per the accompanying diagram, inserting flap bay wall inserts into the space, then closing the wings with two upper halves. The prominent intakes and their fairings on the top of each nacelle are each built from front and rear parts, and glued into recesses moulded into the upper nacelles, then the wings can be mated to the fuselage, adding inserts onto the nacelle sides for the exhausts. The flap bays are extended by adding an insert with the flap mechanism, fitting another inboard after removing a small portion of the base on both sides. The rudder fin is moulded to the fuselage, and has two T-shaped hinge-points moulded-in, onto which the two rudder panel sides are glued, giving the option of leaving the rudder mobile. The elevator fins are each made from two halves, and slot into the tail, with the flying surfaces glued around them in the same manner as the rudder. The intakes under the nacelles are completed with a lip, and an outlet at the rear, fitting the exhaust collector rings around the nacelle bulkhead for each of the four engines, which are next on the menu. The rear bank of pistons have a two-part push-rods and intakes added to the rear, trapping the axle between the two portions, with the front bank glued in place after sliding it over the axle, and finishing off the motor with the bulkhead, magnetos and push-rods moulded as one part. With all four engines complete, the cowlings are made from the cylindrical section that is moulded as one part, plus a choice of open or closed cooling gills at the rear. The engines slot into position in the cowlings on guides, and a scrap diagram shows the correct location. The assemblies are then glued to the nacelles on T-shaped pegs that match recesses on the firewall bulkhead, and they are completed by adding a choice of two styles of exhausts into the exit holes. It's not made abundantly clear to the hard-of-thinking (aka me) that the gear can be depicted raised for flight, so it’s good to know in advance to save you from gluing the nose gear into position before you get to the steps that deal with the landing gear. The nose wheel is made up first, and there are three styles, one for each of the decal options, as shown by the instruction steps that are mentioned at the bottom of each diagram. Two types are made from two halves, while the third is built from two halves plus a centre insert that will be seen through the spokes. To build a model with gear up, the nose bay is covered with a single lozenge-shaped door part with an engraved panel line down the centre, while the gear down option requires them to be cut in half down the panel line. Your choice of nose gear wheel is flex-fitted between the halves of the yokes, so can remain mobile, unless you intend to file a flat-spot to portray the weight of the airframe, in which case a dab of glue will suffice to keep it in position. The main gear legs are built from the strut and a chunky Y-shaped retraction jack, that has three additional parts linked to the upper portion, adding hubs to the cross-axle at the bottom end, which differ depending on which set of wheels you are using, as there are three again. Before installing them, a separate scissor-link is fitted to recesses in the front of the strut, then the three types of wheels are built, one with a separate hub that is inserted into one side of the two-part wheel, the other two made from halves, with a small hub cap on the outer face. In addition, there are twin brake hoses fitted to the front of the struts, with one end fitting into recesses in the hubs, adding a small triangular part between them, and a Y-shaped strut into the bay, plus a small antenna under the nacelle. Two actuators are added either side of the main wheel strut, and these open and close the main bay doors, which are cut from the single part that is used for the in-flight option. The remainder of the bay door part is also cut into three, and two mount on studs at the base of the strut, and the other at the front. For the gear-up option, the bay door part is used without cutting and is simply glued into the cut-out. Back to the flaps. To lower the flaps, two parts per wing are glued together, and mounted on the actuators that were installed earlier. To model them retracted, two alternative parts are glued per wing and inserted flush, in line with the airflow. In a small diagram the tail receives a light at the top of the fin, adding another two in a fairing that is glued to the pen-nib fairing at the rear of the fuselage. At the other end of the fuselage, the canopy part has an overhead console glued into its roof and painted according to the diagram before the canopy is glued down, joined by an astrodome behind it, a pair of twin antennae on an insert in the roof, and a small intake off to one side. Under the wings, a pair of pop-up landing lights are inserted into a recess either flush with the skin of the wing by cutting off the peg, or folded down on the peg. The cargo door is moulded as a single part that can be cut to depict the doors open, and a small porthole is inserted into a hole in the narrower door. Whether you pose them open or closed is up to you, but open doors in flight might whistle a little bit. Fitting the antenna and props are the last thing you’ll be doing after main painting, and on this kit the three-bladed props and spinner are moulded as a single part, and each one slots onto the axle projecting from the front of the engine. A cluster of probes and antennae are fitted around the nose, under the nose, under the wing roots and under the aft fuselage, after which there are two diagrams that show where the antenna wires should be fitted, using your favourite rigging material to finish the task. Just in case you didn’t put enough weight in the nose, Revell have thoughtfully supplied a stand that can be placed under the tail to prevent the crew from ending up in the tail. Markings There are four decal options on the large decal sheet, all wearing the same silver scheme, but with different markings to tell them apart, in addition to the wheels of course. From the box you can build one of the following: Air Transport Command, Airlift Berlin, 1948 USAF, Airlift Berlin, 1948 US Navy, Airlift Berlin, 1948 USAF, Airlift Berlin, Wiesbaden Air Base, Winter 1948-49 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin satin carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A well-detailed model of this common transport from WWII and the Cold War, depicted as four airframes that participated in one of the most ambitious, extended and successful airlift missions in all of aviation’s history. It would make a great memorial to all the pilots and crew that lost their lives helping the people of Berlin survive. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

My second entry will be this. It contains markings for 2 tanks both of which seem to be for the Gulf War(s) but gives no info as to location, date etc. The kit does not have the various "add-on" armour packages that later became a standard fitting I believe, particularly when used for urban fighting. Pete

Now I have finished my builds for another Gb I should have time for two or maybe 3 tanks in this one. First up is this. It is the simplified export version and comes with optional Iraqi markings. Pete

’66 Shelby GT 350R (07716) 1:24 Carrera Revell Ford’s Pony Car was first introduced in 1964, and immediately struck a chord with the American car-buying public, claiming a place in motoring history as it did so. By 1966, not much had changed yet, including the size and weight of the car, making it one of the lightest from the whole lineage. The Shelby 350 was a modified Mustang, with more powerful engine, stiffer suspension and distinctive styling in any colour as long as it was white, making it a track-style car before that name was fashionable, also changing the name to capitalise on the reputation of the Shelby company. The first batch of the ’66 350s were based upon the Fastback chassis, and colours other than white were available, and over 1,300 were made, plus around 1,000 in the standard bodyshell. A small number of ‘special’ cars were given the R suffix to differentiate, as they were race-prepared, and not suitable for picking up a carton of milk and a pack of Lucky Strikes from the local 7-Eleven. These cars raced in the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) Pro Racing series, including races at Laguna Seca and Riverside tracks. The Kit This is a reboxing with new decals of the 1985 tooling by Revell under the Monogram branding, which is backed up by the raised lettering on the underside of the interior tub of the model. The kit arrives in a shallow end-opening box, and inside are four sprues and the bodyshell in white styrene, another sprue that has been chrome-plated over white styrene, a small clear sprue, decal sheet, and instruction booklet that is printed in colour with profiles for the decal option to the rear. This is a special boxing that depicts a single car as it raced on two tracks with Walt Hane at the wheel on both occasions. This is an old kit, but has good detail, and time has been kind to the moulds, including a full engine, underside details and the spartan interior that had been stripped down in anticipation of racing. Construction begins with the engine, two parts for the block and transmission halves, adding multi-part detail inserts top and bottom, then fitting two cylinder-blocks and their rocker-covers, which have decals for the top, then accessorising it with alternator, serpentine belt, fan and manifolds, exhausting four cylinders per bank. The under-tray of the vehicle is then outfitted with the front axle with suspension moulded-in, twin sports exhausts that exit at the sides in front of the rear wheels, and the rear axle, which has ‘hi-tech’ leaf-springs and the drive-shaft moulded-in, then has a pair of dampers fixed between them and the chassis to reduce rebound, installing the engine between the chassis rails at the front, joining the down-pipes from the manifolds to the exhausts. The interior is begun by applying six dial decals to the instrument binnacle, and a further two to the smaller central binnacle, taking the time to remove the standard equipment details in the centre of the main dashboard, as no-one listens to music while they’re racing. The two binnacles are glued into position, fitting the steering column with stalks, and spacing the lightened steering wheel with a tapering extension, then the instructions have you switching to the other wheels, inserting the two hub sides from each side of the flexible black tyres, applying gold or white Firestone logos to them depending on which race you are modelling. After that diversion, the dash is inserted into the front of the interior tub on a pair of notches, and the angled gear shifter is fixed to the transmission tunnel before the rear seats are covered over by a blanking plate and two flashed-over holes are drilled in the flat area at the rear of the doors for later use. The solitary driver’s seat and a covered spare tyre are put in place behind the wheel and on the blanking plate at the rear respectively, and a three-part roll-cage is located on the two holes, and that has a fire-extinguisher moulded into one of the cross bars. The bodyshell is prepared by painting the roof liner dark grey and sanding away the logo moulded into the front arches, then the front and rear screens are popped in from within, adding a chromed rear-view mirror into a hole in the top of the windscreen, before the rear quarter-light cut-outs are covered over with blanking panels that are painted red. Another small moulded-in logo is removed from in front of the arch, although that would have been better done at the same time as the other, then the interior tub is glued into the shell, painting portions of the underside red, as some of it will be seen through the floor pan once the assemblies are joined. Before that however, the rear light clusters are painted as per the instructions and fitted on pegs into the rear of the car, then the chassis and bodywork are brought together, adding a pair of coil-over shocks in the front turrets, which you can paint red if you have steady hands. The wheels are snapped onto the axles in each corner, then the engine bay is painted black around the engine, so it is probably a good idea to paint that before you have the engine in the way, for the sake of your sanity. A dash pot is glued to the firewall, and a strut brace is fixed to the suspension turrets, then the interior front bulkhead with separate radiator is slotted into the front of the bay, jumping back (literally) to add the rear bumper and opener/badge in the centre of the boot. We’re back at the front to install the bumper and chromed radiator, adding chromed reflectors with clear lenses in front that have a fine mesh texture engraved on the rear. Two circular chrome side-lights are painted orange and inserted into the corners of the bumpers to complete the car’s distinctive ‘face’. The bonnet has some detail moulded into the underside, but you’ll need to remove the ejector-pin marks in between them, applying the two go-faster stripes after painting, and another decal that depicts a circular mesh vent over the stripes toward the rear. The air-box and radiator feeder-pipe are glued into the engine bay, and the bonnet can be slipped into position without glue to leave it mobile, adding a chromed stay that is supplied to prop it open, or you can lay it across the bay, dropping into two recesses in the bonnet sides. There are some additional decals applied in the bay, some to bulkheads, others for the ancillary parts that gives the area a little extra realism. Markings This is a special edition in all but name, as it has decals for two particular races that this car took part in, one at Riverside, the other at the world-famous Laguna Seca circuit, and while you’d expect the car to be almost identical for each race, you’d be mistaken, as there are some subtle differences, such as the colour of the Firestone logos and the colour of the driver names. There are also two styles of pony logo on the front grille, one with silver trim, the other with just the coloured stripes and the outline of the horse. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Although the decal numbers are called out for the seatbelts on the instructions, they aren’t represented in the drawings, so in case you missed it, there is a full set of seatbelt decals to add extra detail. Conclusion This is an old kit, but other than the lack of outer runners and the copyright details giving it away, it’s not what you’d expect. There’s plenty of detail, and the body is well shaped. The instructions are a little odd in places the way they flit around, but taking some time to look them over should help avoid mistakes. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Dassault Mirage 2000C (03813) 1:48 Carrera Revell The Mirage family of fighter aircraft began in the late 1950s as a brainchild of Marcel Dassault, using the delta wing format and having no horizontal tail surfaces. The Mirage 2000 is the final mainstream (ignoring the Mirage 4000, which did not see service) 4th generation development of the general concept before adoption of the Rafale by the French Air Force in 2000. The C in the title for the fighter stands for Chasseur or Hunter. As well as two internal 30mm DEFA cannon the aircraft is armed in the air-to-air role with Matra R550 Magic, Matra Super 530D, and MBDA MICRA Missiles. In addition to the Mirage C there is a two-seat B model trainer, N model that has Nuclear Strike capability, and D model Ground attack version, all of which saw service with the French Air Force. Mirage 2000 aircraft have also been sold to Egypt, India, Peru, The UEA, Greece, Tiawan, Brazil, and Qatar, many of which are still in use, although at time of writing, Greece retired theirs a couple of years ago. The Kit This is a reboxing by Carrera Revell of a Monogram kit that was first issued in 1982, and was later upgraded with some weapons, most notably the Exocet missiles, and a one-piece lower wing. The kit arrives in a shallow end-opening box with a painting of the subject on the front, and inside there are four sprues in grey styrene that don’t have the modern runners around the edges to protect the parts from damage or accidental removal during handling. There is also a small clear sprue, a wide decal sheet and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on matt paper, with painting and decaling instructions on the rear pages. Detail is reasonable for the era, although the panel lines on the underside of the wings are engraved because of their later tooling date, while the rest are raised, which might make a little extra work for the modeller if the urge takes them it rescribe the rest. There is a little flash here and there, but much of it is on the sprues, although a little is also present on the parts, but flash is easily removed, and is preferable to short-shot parts on any day of the week. The clear parts are in good shape, although my sample had a little light scuffing on the canopy that could be sanded and polished away with little effort. Construction begins with the cockpit tub, adding the instrument panel in the front, building the Martin-Baker Mk.10 seat from three parts, and adding decal seatbelts before installing it in the sloped rear of the cockpit along with the control column. There is also a crew figure that is moulded mostly in one part, with a separate right arm for the control column that should allow it to be positioned accurately on the control column. The pilot’s back is hollow to help reduce the likelihood of sink-marks on the figure, and to assist in a close fit to the seat or waving to someone if you prefer. The fuselage halves have sidewall detail moulded into their inner surfaces, and these should be painted before the cockpit tub is glued to the starboard side, and the walls of the nose gear bay beneath are inserted underneath and into the port side, so that the fuselage can be closed and the seamlines dealt with in your preferred manner. The clear windscreen and HUD glass parts are fitted to the front of the cockpit opening, then the assembly is put to one side while the wings are built. The lower wing is moulded as a single full-span part that also has portions of the lower fuselage moulded-in, gluing the upper wings over the top, and then unusually moving on to the making of the main landing gear before it is joined to the fuselage. Each gear leg comprises a single strut with retraction jack added, and two-part wheels glued to the stub axle at the lower end, fitting the captive bay doors next to the strut on the outer edge of the bay. It’s probably wise to skip ahead and join the fuselage to the wings before doing this, but the instructions blunder on with the weaponry next, making a large three-part finned fuel tank for under the centreline, a couple of Exocet missiles on custom pylons, and a pair of Magic A2A missile on their own pylons on the outer stations. This is where the two assemblies are joined in the instructions, and good luck dealing with any seamlines without knocking any of the weapons or gear legs off if you followed the instructions! The single SNECMA M53-P2 engine is not depicted, but the afterburner ring is trapped between a tapering length of trunking and exhaust petals, which slides into the rear of the fuselage under the tail once completed, and to avoid any possibility of see-through effect, the four holes in the trunking ‘plant pot’ would be best filled with styrene sheet or something similar. At the intake end, the blanked off fronts of the nacelles either side of the cockpit have a two-part intake with shock-cone on the inner face, and a strake added at an angle to the horizontal on the outer surface, with a scrap diagram helping you get the angle right. If you followed the instructions, your Mirage is lying nose down on the table at this stage, which is about to be rectified by the addition of nose gear, which is moulded as a single strut and retraction jack, which has a pair of trapezoidal landing lights added, one on each side of the strut, and two single part wheels, one on each side of the short cross-axle. This plugs into sockets in the shallow bay, then it’s a case of adding the various probes and sensors around the model, one on each side of the fin, two at an angle in front of the windscreen, plus another in the centre, and the pitot probe at the very tip of the nose cone. The final act is to decide whether you want to pose the canopy open or closed by gluing the tab at the rear of the part into a slot behind the cockpit at an angle or otherwise. Markings There are two decal options on the wide sheet, both wearing the same basic scheme, but one with special markings to set it apart from its in-service colleague. From the box you can build one of the following: Mirage 2000C/RDM EC 1/2 ‘Cigognes’ Dijon, France, 1994 Mirage 2000C/RD EC 5/330 ‘Côte D’Argent’, Centre D’Experimentations Aeriennes Militaires EM AA Monte-de-Marsan, Tigermeet 1996, Beja, Portugal Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It’s not the newest kit in the world, and you might want to consider rescribing the raised panel lines if you’re so inclined, but there are some good decal options to make this old kit more appealing. Recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Hi All Usual reluctance to post anything in this fabulous forum! Nothing special just the 2001 RoG boxing of the near 50-year old Revell B-17G OOB with Tamiya Fuel Truck & ICM Bomber crew. Thanks for looking and see you at Telford! Best Regards Ben