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  1. I know that buying empty containers for paint etc can be rather absurdly expensive, but if you know anyone who uses an e-cigarette ask them if you can have their empty e-liquid bottles. Many of them are basically the same dropper style that Vallejo uses, making them great for paints that you airbrush with, they just need to be cleaned out well. The fancier ones are a little bottle with an eye dropper built into them, which I find are less useful but I use one of them for enamel thinner. I'm personally a vape... ist? And I have found many different uses for these things, so if you know anyone who does it could provide you with a gold mine of useful containers.
  2. Hi guys. I have been asked by a friend to make a model of his Mini Cooper. As a base I will be using the Revell kit as it has the correct wheels, I would not know how to scratch those. I know that the interior will need a bit of work and his car has a sun roof, but I think I can manage that. However, my first hurdle is the colour. The vin plate shows the colour as 862/5 Indy Blue. Looking in my local car shop, and also online at Halfords, i can find no colour match in a spray. Generally I use acrylic paints. Has anyone got an idea for the best colour match? much appreciated.
  3. I've been given a load of Tamiya paints, obviously quite old as a few show Richard Kohnstam Ltd as the supplier... Some of them are coded PC "for polycarbonate". Tamiya's website says that these paints should never be used on plastic, that they are designed only for use on the inside of polycarbonate body shells. Does anyone know for sure if this is really the case and what happens if sprayed on normal plastic? Is there some sort of reaction. If they are useless on polystyrene then I'll move them on to whoever wants them.
  4. Hi. I am brush painting humbrol satin paints and despite mixing them endlessly they always seem very grainy needing lots of coats. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
  5. Hello a quick question anyone know if the Luftwaffe had their aircraft painted with a primer before the camouflage colors ? More Specifically Junkers aicraft ? Dennis
  6. Hello I dont know if this is the right place but, For the Kinetic Model Kits 1/48 F/A-18A/B/C/D Blue Angels 2017 Hornet, Where can I get FS 15050 Blue Angels Blue and FS 13655 Blue Angels yellow paint? And if not what is the most equal paint to those colours that deliver to Guernsey? Thanks Liam
  7. PANTHER-G Colors For Interior & Exterior AMMO of Mig Jiménez AMMO continue issuing new paint sets at a rate of knots, and are garnering some fans with the quality of the paint. Here AMMO have teamed up with Rye Field Models to produce a paint set for their new Panther-G which brings you all the colours you need for the Interior and exterior of the kit, including the metallics for the ammo, and washable white camo if you wish to use it. Of course these can be used on any Panther kit, and other WWII German vehicles. All paints come in the standard Ammo bottle, the yellow cap signifying there is a paint mixing ball in the bottle. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-002 OLIVGRÜN OPT.2 RAL 6003, A.MIG-003 RESEDAGRÜN RAL 6011, A.MIG-011 DUNKELGELB AUS´44 DGI- RAL 7028, A.MIG-012 DUNKELGELB AUS´44 DG III-RAL 7028, A.MIG-014 ROTBRAUN RAL 8012, A.MIG-015 SCHOKOBRAUN RAL 8017, A.MIG-017 CREMEWEISS RAL 9001, A.MIG-197 BRASS A.MIG-024 WASHABLE WHITE CAMO, A.MIG-062 BLUE GREY, A.MIG-218 RLM 66 SCHWARTZGRAU, A.MIG-910 GREY HIGH LIGHT This set should be a welcome addition for the Panther AFV modeller, and an addition to anyone's range of colours. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Modern U.S. ARMY (1950/2016) Acrylic paint set. AMMO of Mig Jiménez AMMO continue issuing new paint sets at a rate of knots, and are garnering some fans with the quality of the paint. The set arrives in the standard long cardboard box with a header to facilitate hanging on one of those merry-go-round display stands in shops. Inside is a clear tray that holds six dropper style paint pots neatly in the box, avoiding all the paints spilling out at once in a Donkey-Kong style. The bottles contain 17ml of paint, plus a stainless steel ball bearing for easy mixing of the paint by shaking. The yellow caps are indicative of the new BB equipped sets, which seem to be the norm these days from AMMO. The colours in the box are as follows: A.MIG-046 Matt Black, A.MIG-085 NATO Brown, A.MIG-025 FS33446 (modern desert colour), A.MIG-081 US Olive Drab, A.MIG-082 Interior Light Green, A.MIG-084 NATO Green. These sets should be a welcome addition for the Modern AFV modeller, and an addition to anyone's range of colours. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hey all. Bit of a dilemma. A while back I got the JGSDF LAV kit from Tamiya, which prompts you to paint the windows in clear blue. For some reason the Tamiya clear blue, when sprayed, would come out opaque on the clear parts, so after rubbing it off immediately I brush painted it, but I've never been happy with how blue it is, looking less like a tinting. It's been some time since I painted them (still haven't fully assembled the kit), but I'm wondering if there's anything I could do to remove the paint without sacrificing the clarity of the part, and if anyone knows why the clear blue went on opaque when sprayed (but not when brushed). I have access to Tamiya acrylic thinner and Ultimate Airbrush Thinner, if they could be used for removal. Thanks in advance. Gaz
  10. Hi, I'm looking for ral 5009 azure blue, do you have it in your range, i only know of lifecolour's alternative, thanks
  11. British Engineering Standard Association (B.E.S.A.) 2D. 103, March 1922 “Air Ministry Nitro Dope Coverings and Identification Colours” In principle all the major paint formulations (PC 10 etc.) should be in there as well as the pigmentation. If possible do you have a copy of this standard or do you know where I could get a copy for research purposes? A scan would be great - send to mechinf(at)netactive.co.za
  12. What's the general consensus on AK Interactive paints? Not the Real Color line but the dropper bottle ones. Do they behave exactly the same as the Mig Ammo, or are they slightly different? Reason I ask is I'm eyeing their woodland camouflage figure set, but don't want to spend that amount if they're going to be a bit dodgy. I've heard stories about the paints being lumpy or clogging, but this was from a few years ago. I once picked up a few Vallejo paints and they were horrendous. With the Mig Ammo paints I tend to put a few drops of Ultimate Thinners in the cup to improve the flow, and I would reason the same goes for AKI. I watched an official AK video showing their paints in action, but while they worked flawlessly, you do wondered how true it is given that its the company channel. Any clarity on the matter would be appreciated Cheers, Gaz
  13. I’ve built this over the last couple of days. It has storage for 150 Vallejo paints as well as some other odds and ends. The shelves are angled back so help the paints remain in place. I’m thinking of making a few of them to sell, so have a look and give me your feedback. And this is what it looks like with my paints in place. Manynthanks for looking. Mark
  14. I have a small problem which the other half might kill me for. 😟 I was working on a model and knocked pretty much all of a pot of humbrol black enamel paint on the cream living room carpet, resulting in a 3 inch stain... I got the most if it up with WD40 and some stain remover but she's still going to notice. 🙈 Anyone got any good tricks?? Pretty please! 🙄
  15. I've just received my first set of Hataka red line paints. These paints are advertised as "optimised for airbrush" and the side of the bottle says "airbrush tested" The paints I received were a million miles away from being airbrush ready, they were thin-ish brush paints. After a short conversation with the UK stockist and with Hataka's facebook page, they have confirmed that none of their paints are airbrush-ready, they all need to be diluted. As far as I'm concerned this is, at best, misleading and at worst blatant and deliberate mis-selling. I'm very disappointed and I would advise Members to avoid the product.
  16. Hi, I am about to start painting on my Airfix Jet Provost - scheme is White, Red, LAG. Airfix suggests H174 for the Red, indicating it to be BS537 in the instructions. I also have here Xtracolor X014 Red Arrows Red, also labeled BS537. Comparing the two, Xtracolor looks a little lighter and a bit more one the 'orange' side than H174. I am not sure which paint to use. Does anyone know which one is the better match? TIA Ingo
  17. Hi, We've just received a restock from Mig.Ammo. There are a number of new products in with the general restocks. 20 new oil brusher colours, plus seven oilbrusher sets. Mig.ammo oilbrushers  - Sets & individual colours. Will hopefully have the 2 new RAF, muds and waters on the site tomorrow. Paul
  18. Hello, I am new here. So I was assembling the revell 777-300er(zvezda repackaging), and I got the KLM decals from draw decals. My problem is, how do I paint the blue top of the plane, when I don't have spray paint, only paint brush, and I'd love if you guys helped me out. Thanks in adance!
  19. RidgeRunner

    Humbrol tins

    Hi all! Does everyone struggle like me to keep these tins sealed and the paint lasting until the very end without drying up? I am thinking about decanting in to "Wilkin" small jam jars. Has anyone out there tried this? If so, what is your experience? Thanks, Martin
  20. There were 57 colours in BS 381 published in 1930 and exactly the same in BS 381C in October 1931. I am now trying to pin down exactly when the next eight colours (listed below) were added. Do you by any chance have any information about the dates of the amendments for each of these? I think they were all added before 1939 except 68 Traffic Yellow but the clues about that colour are not clear. 33 RAF Blue Grey 67 Traffic Green 68 Traffic Yellow 69 Traffic Blue 70 Traffic Red 71 Middle Graphite 72 Dark Graphite 73 Gulf Red Thank you in anticipation. William Marshall mechinf(at)netactive.co.za
  21. Recently taken delivery of these pens. Due to production problems, we only have the 2mm pen available at the moment, others (1mm, 4mm, refills) will be stocked as they become available. Molotow 2mm liquid Chrome Pen Introductory price, until June is £5.50 each Thanks, Paul
  22. Hi everyone, I'm John. I've looked on this site on and off for a couple years. Why? Well after about a 40 plus years gap, I've returned to make a few military models in 1/144 and 1/72, and as a surprise I got a 1/72 Spitfire (resin, based on a Boultbee Flight Academy Spitfire that flies in local over my garden quite often). After plastic modelling back in early seventies, I moved on to R/c planes then helicopters. That then got stopped as I started target shooting and after starting my apprenticeship got my Firearms certificate. So now 40 years later it's time to consider early retirement and get back to modelling. Something my wife has just promoted again with the Spitfire kit. Resin with metal parts it looks a challenge, and the biggest issue at the moment is what colours to paint inside and out etc. So, lots of site searching and probably lots of questions as well, so sympathy for you all as I ask questions that I probably shouldn't. Can't wait ( only excuse is time use, as I still work full time at the moment, but will force the model into it) . Thank you in advance
  23. Hi all! i need some advice based on your experiences. I have to say that Jens has been helpful but I am still paining over the first coat! i have my Super Sabre nearly ready for a green coat but I am still not sure what colours to use and I'd value your advice, thoughts, experiences. i use Humbrol enamels. I know that in the real world they were painted FS24079. However, almost every photo I've seen, and even my own from my early days, shows a blue-grey tone once the paint has faded. I have lightened Humbrol 116 but it goes a light yellowish-tinted colour. What advice do the collective have? thanks. Martin
  24. I'm not sure if anyone will be interested in this but… A couple of years ago I noticed that colours/shades on the Tamiya lids and paint charts didn't match the actual paint. So I used strips of plastic card to spray each colour to get an accurate swatch. It was a long BORING job, but it was well worth, it as I refer to it on almost every build I do. Out of interest, yesterday I superimposed the colour shown on a Tamiya paint chart, with a scan of my colour swatch. Admittedly, my monitor is not colour calibrated, but the differences shown, match my experiences of matching the paint lids with the colour on the model. As you can see, the only exact matches are black, white and XF-12. Some are quite close, but the majority are well off. Does anyone know why this is the case?
  25. Looking for a bit of guidance and tips on how best to mark of a nose cone requiring a different colour paint, particularly as in my Tornado, when the paint change doesn't follow panel lines! I tried using a rubber washer which when I finally managed to get it properly in place was OK, but didn't give the hard edge wanted. Tried to cut a circular hole in a piece of plasticard which was better, but again didn't get a hard enough edge as the nose isn't properly circular. Next was masking off the soft edge a bit to tidy up, but even with curve tape was far from satisfactory as ended up with a couple of kinks to the line edge. Pointers / hint gratefully received!
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