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Showing results for tags 'Paint'.
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Good morning everyone , I have a very small question regarding Vallejo model air and their other products like their primer , should they still smell after they have dried? It’s been a good few days and the model is still a bit wiffy after giving it a sniff I am also a noob at airbrushing so another question is once I have sprayed a coat do I leave it to dry like brushpainting or can I just go over it straight away
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I use pipettes to transfer paint from the bottle to the airbrush or mixing cup. I've been getting a bit fed up with the number of them that have been littering the spraybooth. Yesterday I finally got around to drawing up and cutting a stand to hold them tidily and out of the way. I'm not sure if others have this issue or not, but if anybody would be interested in this stand please let me know and we can get it added to the product range. Cheers
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Does anybody have comments on the accuracy of AMMO by Mig Jiménez colours for WWII RAF aircraft? I'm fed up with buying new paint at my LMS and discovering noticeable differences when compared with the colour swatches in RAF Museum reference book British Aviation Colours of World War Two. AMMO recommends the following: Dark Earth..........................A.MIG-070 Medium Brown Dark Green.........................A.MIG-915 Dark Green Sky.....................................A.MIG-243 Sky Type S Interior Grey Green............A.MIG-219 Interior Green Ocean Grey........................A.MIG-245 Ocean Grey Medium Sea Grey..............A.MIG-246 Medium Sea Grey Middle Stone.....................A.MIG-030 Sand Yellow Azure Blue.........................A.MIG-257 Azure Blue
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Hello, after many years of not building a Model Aircraft kit I decided to buy one. Its a Revell Yak - 3 1:72 Level 3 kit. My question is the box says 10 tins of paint but the instructions say 12. Which is correct and also where is the cheapest place to but it? Thank You
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Hi all... Slight diversion from modelling this weekend as I had to spray the wing mirror casing on my car (satin black) - don't ask! Paint has gone on well but the final coat is left feeling a bit rough to the touch. Is there anything I can get that I can polish it smooth without damaging the paint (was thinking micromesh?) - if so, some guidance on what to buy would be most welcome. Thank you all. GK
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As per title. I could do with some help to find a shade of brown paint. For reasons I'll not go into I'd like a pot 'off-the-shelf' and not have to mix anything. Gloss, matt, or semi-matt/gloss, doesn't matter as it will get varnished over Acrylic or enamel The shade I require is a reddish or orangey tawny brown More reddish or orangey than Humbrol 9 Gloss Tan, but about that degree of luminescence or a bit lighter, but not darker I can get locally; Humbrol, enamel & acrylic Vallejo, Model Colour only Revell, acrylic only Tamiya, most, but not all in the acrylic range Any suggestions are welcome Thanks Fred
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Two drawer paint storage unit for 36ml Bottles EBMA Hobby & Craft We all have a larger stash of paint than we think we have, and finding storage for it is not always easy. There are the vertical racks (Which EBMA do as well) however some of us (me included) prefer drawers for paint. EBMA have created their own line of racks, drawers and tool storage etc made from MDF that are pre-cut ready for assembly. These are designed for the typical bottles used by Gunze and Tamiya and hold 33 bottles per drw, so 66 in total Filled with my Gunze paints to give an idea of use Construction is simple, and will require some PVA to glue the sections together, and having some clamps handy will be a boon for getting strong joints. The joints will also be stronger if you use proper woodworking PVA glue, which can be sourced online easily and cheaply if you’re in need. Instructions are found online to save paper and cost, and yes you do really need to look at them. If you have built any kind of flat pack you already know this! This set like many others from EBMA comes with little magnets which you can use for to keep more than one of their modular units together. Conclusion This is a well designed storage system for all modellers which will help keep your paints where you want them, with the added advantage they fit together. EBMA also do a wide range of these for most of the paint bottles/jars currently available. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of -
Humbrol 28 - Matt Camouflage Grey as a low-vis underside?
PaintPot posted a topic in Aircraft Modern
Hi All I am currently building the Airfix Jet Provost T.4 (A02107) and I have a question regarding the colours for the (A) scheme - which appears to be a “low-vis” scheme. The Humbrol number / name suggested for the underside is 28 / Matt Camouflage Grey - which the instructions state is an approximate match to BC381C 626 (Barley Grey). However, Humbrol 28 is only available as an enamel and I very much prefer to use acrylics (Humbrol ones mostly). I’m not overly precious about colour accuracy but would at least like to be in the right ballpark So - my questions really are - does Humbrol 28 sound/look right for this type of scheme based on other's knowledge / experience? If so, can anyone suggest an acrylic alternative. If not, what should be considered the “correct” BS colour? Many thanks. P.S. I thought maybe the instructions were wrong and I should use Humbrol 167/Satin Barley Grey (which IS available in acrylic) but… Humbrol 167 is meant to be a match for BS-18-B-21 (or BS639) - so not the same BS number that Airfix are suggesting - nor do these two colours (from the Humbrol tin) look the same - so I suspect the instructions are OK. I understand that Barley Grey was later renamed to Camouflage grey (in the real world) but that only makes matters more confusing! -
Hi Guys, I have the Tamiya 1/700 Scharnhorst kit to build, and I'm after some info on camouflage / colour schemes for the kit. The model has an enclosed bridge, which I understand was fitted after the channel dash, and I've seen photos of her with dark superstructure and hull, but with light bow and stern. I've also seen pictures of a rather elaborate camouflage pattern, so my question is what would be correct for this model ? I do have the Snyder and Short Kriegsmarine colour chips, so I would be able to refer to them if needs be.
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Aluminium Palette (AK613) AK Interactive Paint mixing is a chore if you’re always struggling to find a suitable surface, which makes palettes a desirable tool, especially if they have multiple wells so you can keep a number of shades of the same base colour on the go at once. Will 10 wells do you? Well? That’s how many you get in this utilitarian 17cm diameter (6.75”) palette that’s available from AK. The wells are arranged in a circle and it is supplied in a clear bag with header card with no frills. Aluminium ensures that it’s rugged, and well able to stand up to multiple trips to paint-town, and it would probably also stand up to a journey through your dishwasher, but don’t tell your other half I said that. The wells are pressed into the surface, and a central flat, stepped area can be used for further mixing if you desire. The outer edge is rolled under to prevent injury and to give the palette some extra rigidity that shows when you flex it. That’s it. I can’t think of anything else to say about it, other than the fact that it is also cheaply priced so that if you leave your paint too long and can’t be bothered cleaning up (you terrible person!), it’s almost disposable. Conclusion Speaking as a modeller that scratches about for somewhere to mix paint for detail painting or touch-ups, this is a handy thing to have around. Buy one or lots, just don’t play frisbee with them! Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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Hi guys, What method do you use for holding/storing your models while they're drying? At the moment I'm using a black plastic base which has rows of holes in it. It's designed to be used with alligator clips mounted on metal sticks which you then poke into the holes, but A) the clips that came with it are way too strong and would warp/snap any part I'd hold with them, and B ) The holes in the base seem to have some sort of obstruction in them meaning the metal sticks need to be pushed really hard for them to sit in place, so I've resorted to just using wooden toothpicks poked into the holes to balance the model on, which is a bit too wobbly and hardly secure enough for my liking. Also, depending on the paint finish, the toothpicks actually end up sticking to the model a lot of the time. All drying in my flat is kept in a very handy seed propagator (think; mini greenhouse) due to the presence of a fuzz ball of a cat, so I'm looking for a method which would fit inside this propagator (I would say it's about 30cm high, 50cm long and 30cm wide). Could you show me your methods or tell me about products I could look into, please? 👨🔬
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For the Luftwaffe experten, I would be grateful for thoughts on which paint manufacturers offer the best representation of the following: RLM 81 RLM 74/75 I mostly use Xtracolor, but the 81 they offer looks too green to be Braunviolett (I know there are variations). Meanwhile the 74 and 75 appear too close in hue and offer much less contrast than is apparent on period photos. I recently had a go with a couple of random other greys, which gave (I felt) a better result (as shown here - NB it's not finished yet!). I would be very grateful for advice or recommendations. -
I've found lots of posts on various sites recommending what thinners to use with what paints either off the shelf or home brew, but it there a consolidated list or matrix anywhere that I can reference?
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Hi Everyone, I'm wondering how I should paint the following piece(s), it's the cockpit window for a Spitfire. How do people generally tackle this?
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I have decided to think about an alternative to my beloved Mr Color and Mr Paint and in a moment of patriotic zeal ,I thought about using locally produced paint, especially having been wowed by Stew Dapples sex god apron outfit at Telford, it's time for some Colourcoats. Now I am familiar with its previous incarnation through White Ensign and have no qualms about the quality and colour matches which from what I can see are pretty exacting. My interest is in the speed of drying, I'm spoilt as Mr Color/Paint +Mr Leveling dries rock hard and Tamiya tape ready in 30-120 minutes on average in my temperature and humidity controlled spray room. What kind of drying times are folk getting in the real world, especially with their dedicated thinner? Has anyone tried it with the terabine type drying accelerators like Rustins for instance? Some real world experiences and links to some results/build threads would be good. To give a benchmark , in my latest build below, I did a 1/72 BoB 109E by spraying RLM 65 at lunchtime , masking the underside and RLM 02 at 16:00 and then applying splinter tamiya/oramask 810 masks and doing the RLM 71 two hours later and then finally at 21:00 gloss coating it, no tape lift whatsoever. Ideally thats the kind of speed I'd be looking to replicate. Again it's no big deal as I'm happy with my paints but unhappy that its made many thousands ( or even hundreds) of miles away and shipped all the way here with all the harm that entails. that and supporting small local producers. Anil
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Good evening, I am embarking on the interesting mission of a 1/72 Fairey Delta 2 and wish to portray it in the guise of when it had just broken the absolute air speed record. This is a peculiar colour. I wondered if some of the more knowledgable modellers here might be able to help as I can’t seen to pin the shade of colour down that I I’ll need to paint the model. See below photos for reference : Cheers, Ash
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Hi Everyone! I just started on my first model, and there's a few general (non technical, it's friday let's keep it simple) questions about painting and glueing. I'm trying to make subassemblies as to not be working with to many parts at the same time, but when I mixed paint, I felt like it was better to immediately paint all the parts that need that specific blend of colours, how do you go about this? Is it okay to paint the majority of the parts first, and then only start glueing? I'm afraid if I keep some for later, I won't be able to reach them, I won't forget to scratch of paint on the parts that will be glued of course, I'm building the Spitfire, and thinking of painting the interior before glueing, and then the exterior afterwards. Any tips or a nudge in the right direction is welcome! Thanks
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Hi everyone, my name's James and I'm relatively new to model making but I've learned so much from this forum that I wanted to give something back to the community. I made this conversion chart out of frustration at trying to convert a paint colour only to find that either an equivalent paint wasn't listed - or that my local model shop was out of stock. www.modelshade.com will fall back to using the CIE94 colour matching algorithm and show you a bunch of other possible matches, based on swatches I scraped from manufacturers websites. Each match is rated out of five stars, matches that are on an actual conversion chart will be first - try it out and let me know your feedback It works on mobile too and if you select "add to homescreen" you'll be able to use it offline just like any other app. Email feedback/criticism to the address I set up just for this [email protected] or message me on BritModeller (it's also worth pointing out I don't plan to make any money from this so be kind) www.modelshade.com Also for you Brit Modellers I added a language switcher in the top left to spell "colour" correctly. That took me hours to code so I hope you appreciate it
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Dear Fellow Modellers I'm sure this is an old subject, what the best paints are for the RFC PC10 colour, but as a confirmed Gunze paint enthusiast I wondered if anyone had advice on a Gunze paint or mix they could offer? Thanks Andrew
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I wonder if anyone here has recommendations for the blue paint for R2 D2? I've picked up a couple of the retrokit R2 bananaas kits, and looking at my blue paints I'm struggling to find one that is a close match to the blue colour on R" D2. I've seen a Vallejo Air Ultramarine Blue colour used in a WIP here, but my best option for paints locally seems to be Citadel paints, and one of Caledor Sky, Macragge Blue, or templeguard blue. Failing that, the best paint I seem to have is Tamiya clear blue over white primer and tamiya flat white. I've also got the option of getting artist's paints from the range.
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Just a quick question that I'm sure someone here has a good idea on. I've picked up a couple of the retrofit R2 -Bananaas kits, which are simply R2D2 as a minion, and I'm wondering is there a preferred preparation for painting resin? Other than a wash in mildly soapy warm water, is there something else that would help primer/paint adherence? I intend to use halfords white primer on it and Tamiya white acrylic paint.
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Hi just ordered myself some custom mass effect models of Shepard and Miranda Lawson thing is I dont know where to start paint wise. as you can see from the pictures i need them colours I know I sound like "tell me the colours" but I aint got a clue when it comes to paints. other thing is they are big models and I am wanting them to have detailed faces I know this sounds like a stupid question again but does anyone know of a set or something to use I mean there are ones out there just they are meant for men and stuff what I mean is I wanted them to look like a woman like the pictures . ALSO hair colours as well plz I really dont have a clue hope you can understand poor writing skills cheers
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At telford I picked up a copper state models service man on tea break 1:35 scale. The figure has goggles round his cap above the peak. How would you recommend I paint it to show the glass over the material of the cap. I use acrylics. Thanks
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Mr.Hobby's "Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray", is a new primer to me... I sprayed the 1:48 F-15e with it, thinned down with cellulose thinner, and.. firstly it kept getting stuck in the airbrush at 15/20 psi or barely coming out, so i had to turn the pressure up to around... 30 psi! The result was horrible. the finish is like tarmac. when i touch it i keep getting dust on my fingers and it feels like sand paper! (see images) I'm not too sure what went wrong here... 1. Could it be i didn't thin it enough? if so what are the percentages? 50/50? 2. Too hot? still hot over here. around 30 degrees. but garage didnt feel too hot as august. 3. What psi am i supposed to spray this primer at? 4. Am i supposed to spray it on WET? or dust it on first? Funnily enough, on the small parts like air-brake, pods and missile racks went on beautifully. I sprayed these slow and in heavy wet lines.
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Hello friends havent posted in quite a while but need some advice. Now that Testors has for the most part eliminated their MM line of enamels I find myself in the land of acrylics, where my problem has been the fast drying time for an old man who paints slow and deliberate. Anyway, my question is what Tamiya color is closest to MM dark glossy blue, or 15042 if I remember the FS number correctly. I want to do a nice dark glossy sea blue on a circa 1945 Hellcat. If I have to start using acrylics then a basic spray job is in order. Are acrylics ever glossy, or is a gloss coat necessary? I know that the vast majority of you guys have been using acrylics for years but this old dog needs to learn a few new tricks out of pure necessity. Well, any help would be much appreciated. Cheers SA
