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Hello guys! Today I made the final push with the Tamiya kit and finished it in two hours. I forgot to install the armoured headrest because Tamiya didn't show it in the instructions, and by the time I found it, the canopy was firmly in place.

Aaaarrgghhh I can’t take it anymore!!! The Messerschmitt Me 262B-1a/U1 By Airfix 1/72 Good evening you lot. I’d like to welcome you to my first build of 2020. 😇 As the title suggests “Aaaarrrgghhh I can’t take it anymore !!“ I’m talking about the kit I’m currently finishing off. It’s one of those Sci-Fi jobbies. There’s just no glue, fit issues, learning new stuff, banter, all the stuff I love about modelling. It’s looking good but all I seem to be doing is disassembling parts I’ve already assembled and painting said bits on sticks before assembling again. I don’t know what it is but I need an Aeroplane in my life. So watching @CedB’s recent mottled wonder I checked the stash and found this. I picked it up from Ian Allen In Brum before it closed. 75% off which going by the price on it it must have cost £4.75. ( Happy and sad in equal measure ) I’ve wanted to learn about this beauty for ages and now seems like a perfect opportunity. 😍🤩 Join me if you will for a kick start to the new year and a mottled wonder. If she turns out as good as Ced‘s one I’ll be happy. I don’t even know how to do a mottle but it’s going to be fun finding out. ❤️🐆 Enough of this. I need to Glue something!!!!! Here are the sprues. The detail is quite lovely. 😇 This. Is the mottled scheme I’ll be doing. Black bum too. 🥳 Look 👀Glue!!! There at the top it’s glue. 😇🥳🤣🤪 With this thing cast to the far reaches of the bench for a bit. I can get my teeth into this little beauty. 🤩 Look I had to file some bits. 😀 sorry, I’ll calm down in a sec. 🤪🤦‍♂️ Ahem. Right.... Office first. These bits went together easily, I was worried about the pin marks but the seats will cover those. See. 😀 The side instrument panels got added along with the pedals and a floor section. The detail for such a tiny kit is ace. this top section. Needed a little attention to get rid of the slight seam on the inside.( Easy peasy) The Front IP is like this. So with this in mind I positioned the kit part. Not a bad representation with paint and decals. There is a box in the rear part of the office that looks like this. The kit part had zero detail so I scratched some and glued it in place. The control column got a dry fit. As did the whole assembly thus far. Front. And rear. That is where we are as of tonight. I can tell you it’s been such a breath of fresh air, I’m loving it. Any issues that any of you know please pipe up, hopefully before I get to that particular bit. 😎🥳🤞 Hopefully as I said earlier some of you will tag along for this one. No huge plans just a nice fun start to the year with some history lessons thrown in for good measure. Thanks for popping in and as always. Happy Modelling. Johnny. 🙃

Hello guys, here are thirteen photos of my most recently completed model, Airfix's 1:48 Bf 109E-4 with the markings of Franz von Werra.

This is the Revell model of the P1099B, an aircraft that never left the drawing board in terms of design. It's a rather ugly aircraft but that's kinda what I liked about it when I bought the kit. According to the instructions this aircraft was from KG 76, a bomber squadron, so I found a much larger pistol packing devil for the side of the aircraft, I think it came from a KG 76 Junkers 88 kit. Since it was a fighter bomber, I also added a bomb and rack under the fuselage from an Me 262. Colour scheme is RLM 82 light green with RLM 83 dark green patches over RLM 76 blue. The squiggles are RLM 76 which I applied with a brush to get the nice hard edge. This was based off an Me 262 camouflage schemes that I liked. Overall the kit is good fitting, although there was some filling and sanding required on the engine nacelles and the nose wheel insert. Some weight was also required to prevent tail sitting.

Wingsy Kits is working on a new tool 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109E-1/-3/-4/-7 family of kits. My only comment: I'm not the investor, it's the model kit market that will decide the well or not well-founded of this choice. Source: in the comments https://www.facebook.com/Wingsykits/photos/a.961746970607307/2446782888770367/?type=3&theater V.P.

I've always wanted to make this model, and now it's my turn. Lightweight work model, it fits perfectly. The aircraft I worked on belonged to a squadron that defended Belgrade and Serbia from the attack by German forces on April 6, 1941. Here are the pictures, enjoy.

Dragon Models is working on a new tool 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109E kit - ref. DR5550 Sources: http://platz-media.com/blog/2019/09/22/2019-ahs-dragon/ http://www.platz-hobby.com/products/9386.html V.P.

Bf.110C-2/C-7 Photo-Etch & Mask Sets (for Revell 04961) 1:32 Eduard Revell's recently re-released boxing of the excellent Dragon kit got the once-over from us here not too long ago, and very nice it was too. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail beyond what styrene is capable of in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior C-2 & C-7 (32950 & 32951) Two frets are included in each set, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. The bare frets only differ in their numbering, while the plated and painted frets have subtle differences in the main instrument panel. A complete set of new layered instrument panels and side consoles are the primary parts on the painted set, with new rudder pedals; throttle quadrant; gun-sight with a small slip of clear acetate; additional instrumentation; canopy internal structure and magazine grab-handles also supplied. The C-7 set has the extended panel to the lower edge, plus a set of additional instrument front for the radio cluster. Bf.110C-2 Interior (32950) Bf.110C-7 Interior (32951) Seatbelts STEEL (33225) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. The set can be used for both sub-types, and include crew belts for all three seats with only the pilot getting a four-point harness, the other two getting lap-type belts. The pilot also benefits from separate comfort pads under the buckles. Exterior C-2/C-7 (32443) This larger bare brass set contains some important upgrades such as additional structure and skin parts for the main landing gear bays; a more in-scale D/F loop for the spine; bracing straps between each fin of the C-2's bombs; brake hoses; four realistic hinge-points for each of the main gear bay doors along with end-detail and the delicate links of the retraction mechanism. Finally, the twin-tails are each given trim-tab actuators to replace the chunky moulded-in representations. Masks Tface (JX238) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape and arriving in a larger ziplok bag due to the size, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of interior and interior canopy masks tailored to fit the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. This will be especially useful if you are using the interior set above, as you will have some additional detail to show off in there by the time it comes to painting. If you're closing up the canopy however, you can also just get the external masks that will still make the job easier. Tface Masks (JX238) External Canopy Masks (JX237) Review sample courtesy of

Me.262A-1/A-2 (03875) 1:32 Revell The shark-like profile of the Messerschmitt Me.262 Schwalbe and its almost matchless abilities at the time have given it a high profile despite its lack of practical effect on the outcome of WWII. If Der Fuhrer had been a little less prone to meddling however, the effect of its presence may have been felt more by the bomber streams than it was. That's if they could have solved the metallurgy of the engines to obtain sufficient time before they burned themselves to oblivion. That's a lot of ifs, but if we concentrate on the actual performance of it, it's still an impressive aircraft that was superior to the British Meteor in many respects, using axial flow jet engines and swept outer wing panels together with an efficient aerodynamic shape. It first flew with a prop in the nose and dummy engines, dragging its tail along the ground until airborne, but this was changed once the engines were live as the thrust from both engines would have played havoc with their landing strips. The delays were caused partly by Hitler's insistence that the airframe should be able to carry bombs, which it eventually could under its nose, but as usual their efforts were spread too thin by trying to make the Schwalbe a workhorse with many variants, all of which took valuable engineers and strategic materials away from the fighters that were to be the most use in the defence of the Reich. The huge speed differential between the 262 and its bomber stream targets meant that zoom attacks were necessary that gave precious little time for the pilot to take careful aim due to the high rate of closure. The aircraft were also vulnerable during take-off and landing due to the slow spooling-up of all early jet engines, which the Allies took full advantage of to reduce the fleet further with intensive maintenance whittling away at the available airframes even further. It was a case of too little too late in terms of numbers and even with their speed advantage a few were shot down by piston-engined Allied aircraft due in part to the extensive experience that the Allied crews had gained during the invasion and the comparative lack of experienced German pilots by that stage of the war. As the Allies rolled through Germany they captured airbases and research establishments with many variants that didn't see combat found and hoovered up by US Operation Paperclip and similar operations by the other Allied governments. The Kit This is a fork of the 2016 tooling in this scale of the Me.262B-1/U-1 two-seater with new parts to depict the single seat fighter. This was made easier by the sensible decision by Revell to tool the engines and other common parts to ensure they could be used for other variants, so it's a case of new fuselage parts on the otherwise identical sprue, new clear parts, a new single-part cockpit and of course the bombs that the fighter was supposed to carry. Inside the deep end-opening box are thirteen sprues in their usual light grey styrene, two clear sprues, decal sheet and the new-style instruction booklet with painting guide printed at the rear in colour. Construction of this variant is broadly similar to the original, beginning with the cockpit and its sidewalls. These are made up with levers and some decals, then the centre section of the cockpit floor is added along with the power breaker panel that is prominent on the pilot's right. The instrument panel has cylindrical backs moulded in with a separate add-on section depending upon whether the airframe is to carry rockets or bombs. Decals for the instruments are supplied, and the panel is attached to the forward end of the side consoles by two tabs, with the rudder pedals fitted under them, then joined by the front bulkhead. The pilot's seat is well-moulded and you'll leave another on the sprues as a left-over from the 2-seat variant. You can use the decal seatbelts directly on the seat, or add these to foil to give them a bit of depth if you don't want to go for PE or those awesome HGW belts that I'm always going on about. The cockpit's cylindrical "tub" is added in two parts around the assembly, then it is set aside for a while to build up the combined gun bay and nose-gear bay on opposite sides of the tapering floor part. The two walls of the bay are added with the stub of the nose gear leg, the rest of which is added later, then the top side is fitted out with ammo guides before a pack of four Mk.108 cannons and their supportive bulkhead are slipped into place past the ammo feeds. The remaining upper feeds are then laid over the installation, and two braces are added between the two bulkheads, which will all be visible if you elect to leave open the bay doors. In the fuselage halves, the ammo chutes are placed inside depicting the rectangular outlets for the spent brass, then the bay is glued into the port side and the fuselage is closed up. One handy feature of the 262 is that in most scales the majority of kits allow you to insert the cockpit from below before the wings are attached. The cockpits sills are inserted into the aperture from above along with the canopy rail, then the cockpit with aft bulkhead are fitted from below and ancillary equipment that will be visible through the gear bays are added to finish off. Speaking of the gear bays, the main spars that pass through the main bay are next to be built, beginning with the front section that is joined to the rear by three ribs and the stubs of the main gear legs. These are placed in the centre lower wing section which has the outer panels added that use overlapping tabs to strengthen their joints. The two flap sections are added to each lower wing, then after fitting the upper wing panels the two-part ailerons are installed with their actuators and fairings. The 262 had gravity operated slats along the leading edge of the wing, so on the ground and at low speed they will be deployed by default, and this is depicted by the separate surfaces that are joined to the wing by six points moulded into the upper wing section. If you are posing your model with the gear up, the slat tabs are cut off and the slats fitted flush to the wing. This completes the wings, and they are added to the lower fuselage, taking care to align the lower panel and its fairings front and rear to minimise any clean-up. Now work begins on the engines, which are depicted in their entirety (externally) from intake to exhaust with separate handed nacelles added to turn them into port and starboard units. The intake and its inner trunk are joined one inside the other, with the bullet and front face of the engine added from behind, with a similar method used for the exhaust with its stator vanes and the rear of the engine just visible through them. The mid-section of the engine body is made of five parts and its various colours are picked out as you go. The intakes and exhausts are added, more ancillaries are fitted around the middle, and then the two units are slipped within their two-part nacelles that fit port and starboard after adding the compound curves of the fairings front and rear that fit neatly onto the leading edge of the wing first and are then glued along their length. It's looking a lot like a Schwalbe now, but needs its tail-feathers. The fin is moulded into the fuselage halves with a separate rudder and trim-tab, and the elevators are made up from two part fins and a single elevator unit for each that can be posed at an angle if desired. These are fitted into the slots in the tail and should be at 90o to the fin and monitored as the glue sets. For the landed option, the gear needs making up next, with a choice of design of four-part nose wheels and standard two-part main wheels with a zig-zag tread. The struts are single parts each, the nose leg having a single armed yoke, while the main gear have separate scissor-links added to the fronts of their struts and the wheels fitted to a stub axle that sits roughly perpendicular to the leg. If you're going wheels up the nose gear bay is closed up by a single part after cutting off the hinge points. The main gear bay is provided with a single piece that spans both bays. If you are using the gear, the nose bay door is cut into two sections and posed with one piece attached to the side, and the other part captive to the front of the leg. The main gear bays take three parts each, with two attached to the leg, and the inner section affixed to a central brace between the bays and fitted with two retraction jacks each. In order to fit the canopy the gun-sight has to be made up first on a cruciform bracket with the clear gun-sight fitted to one leg and the lenses left clear while the rest of the sight is painted. The windscreen has its bullet-proof internal screen attached from the inside before the completed gun-sight is fitted into the inside edges of the screen then glued into position at the front of the cockpit aperture. The opening canopy has its head-armour fitted and can be glued into place open using the two moulded-in tabs, or closed by removing the tabs before installation. The aft section of the canopy is usually seen in position, but can be shown open using the tabs provided although there's not much to be seen under it. The engine cowlings can be left off to display some of the detail, as can the nose bay to show off the cannons just by cutting the cover into three sections, one part of which is glued across the centre and the other two fitted gull-wing style with props supplied on the sprues. The nose cone and cannon troughs are glued to the front, with a tiny clear light on the tip of the nose. The 262 could carry either two drop-tanks to extend its range, or a pair of bombs in the fighter-bomber role, or rockets under the wings. The drop tanks are each two parts split top and bottom at a natural seamline and share the same pylons as the bombs. The bombs supplied are 250KG or 500KG and use the same construction method of two parts with a separate nose-cone, two fins and an exterior ring at the rear on the 500KG unit, and braces for the smaller units. The rockets are moulded as one part and are attached to their racks that are conformal to the underside of the wings. The model is completed by clear wingtip lights, D/F loop on the spine, pitot probe on the port wingtip and aerial under the wing. Markings There are two decal options included in the box, each one spanning two pages of the booklet and printed in full colour. They are sufficiently different to please many, and from the box you can build one of the following: Me.262A-1a Wk.Nr. 130017, Erprob.Kdo 262, Lechfeld, 1944 Me.262A-2a WkNr. 170122, 2./KG 51 "Edelweiss" Rheine, 1944 Decals are printed for Revell by Zanetti, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Grab one of these if 262s and 1:32 are your thing and you'll be well-pleased. There is a lot of detail moulded-in, and if you want more there will be enough aftermarket to sink a ship in due course. With Revell's distribution network they'll be pretty easy to find too. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Hello every body, after my ANR G-14 I want to show you my G-6 from JG3. Its the first generation 109 from eduard (this with some well known failurs) which I corrected.

Messerschmitt Bf109F-2 1:72 Revell The Messerschmitt BF 109 was certainly the most numerous, and probably the best known of all the aircraft used by the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. Almost 34,000 examples were produced between 1937 and 1945, and the type saw active service in every theatre in which German armed forces were engaged. Powered initially by the relatively low powered Junkers Jumo engine and later by various iterations of the more powerful Daimler Benz DB600 series of inverted V-12 engines, the later variants of the BF 109 could achieve speeds of up to 400 mph. In comparison with the E, or ‘Emil’, the F or 'Friedrich' featured a more powerful version of the DB601 engine, as well as a host of aerodynamic improvements such as a more rounded cowling, enlarged spinner, smaller, lightweight propellor and redesigned supercharger intake. The F2 was armed with 1 × 15mm MG 151 cannon and 2 × 7.92mm MG 17 machine guns. Eagle eyed readers will no doubt have already spotted that this is the Zvezda kit of 2012, which was marketed as a snap-fit kit by the Russian firm. Revell make no mention of this in their instructions, instead suggesting that conventional polystyrene cement should be used to fix the parts together. Builders would do well to note the origins of the kit, however, as snap-fit models are not so forgiving when it comes to test fitting the parts together! The parts are cleanly moulded and surface details is fine and crisp. As you might expect, the part count is fairly low, but not as low as one of Hobbyboss's easy build kits. Assembly begins with the wings. The upper wings are moulded as one part, with the floor of the cockpit moulded in place between the upper wing surfaces. The landing gear wheel wells feature basic structural detail. The cockpit is surprisingly well-detailed for a kit of this type, with a control column, rudder pedals (moulded in place) and various other controls moulded separately. The instrument panel is moulded in two parts, while the rear bulkhead/pilot's seat is moulded in three parts. Unusually for a modern kit, a pilot is included. He is moulded in three parts and is rather nicely detailed. With the cockpit and wing finished, attention turns to the fuselage. The supercharger intake and the machine gun fairings are separate parts, which adds to the overall level of detail. The rudder is moulded in place with the port side of the fuselage, while the elevators are solid parts. The propellor is moulded as one part, with a conventional three-part spinner. You won't need to drill out the hole for the 15mm cannon as a rather delicate hole aleady exists. The landing gear is pretty good for the scale, and alternative parts are provided should you wish to build your model in wheels up configuration. The canopy is moulded as a single part, but is otherwise ok. My only real grumble with the kit is the lack of decal options. Just one scheme is catered for on the decal sheet; Bf109 F-2 Stab.II/JG53, Grupperkommander Hptm. H. Brenutz, St. Omer-Arques, May 1941. The decals themselves are nicely printed but include only basic markings. Conclusion This isn't the latest, greatest kit and nor does it pretend to be. What it is, is simple, easy to build and reasonably detailed. It is also good value and perfect for younger modellers or those on a tight budget (or with ambitions to build a lot of F-2s!). Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Modelcollect is to release a 1/48th Messerschmitt P1101-104 Heavy two-seat destroyer kit - ref.UA48004 Sources: http://www.modelcollect.com/wwii-german-messerschmitt-p1101-104-heavy-two-seat-destroyer https://www.facebook.com/Modelcollect/photos/a.153755038112938/1244267079061723/?type=3&theater V.P.

Please note the Finnish Swastika is completely different from the one used by the Third Reich. Another Eduard kit, this time their Profipack G-2. I had to make a fair amount of trimming on the wheel wells to allow for a good fit of the upper wings. I also had to reglue the radiator roof on the right wing because it had gotten loose. I used decals from the Hasegawa "Finnish Air Force" Bf 109G-2, which silvered a bit, something that hadn´t happened on my previous 25 models. The carrier film of the decals was brittle and tore on many places, but it didn't affect the important part of the decal. Comments welcome!

Eduard's Weekend Edition Bf 109F-2 painted as Wolf Dietrich Wilcke's plane when he was Gruppenkommandeur of III/JG 53. I found a pretty good photo of the real plane, and I didn´t know if what I was looking at was a dirty airframe or a mottled one, so I decided to follow the scheme of a similar Bf 109F-2 flown by Heinz Bretnütz of II/JG 53. The aircraft was brushpainted with Revell acrylics.

Brengun has just released a 1/48th Messerschmitt BFW M.23b resin kit - ref. BRS48008 Source: http://www.hauler.cz/cs-cz/e-shop/1-48-stavebnice-30/messerschmitt-b-f-w-m-23-b-1554 V.P.

Hallo again This is my Me-262 B. 1/32 Kit is Trumpeter. All painting and insignia are as explained in: Happy modelling

Hallo again This is my Me-109 K-4. 1/32 Kit is Trumpeter. All painting, insignia, and stencils are as explained in: Stencils are wet transfer from HGW. Happy modelling

Hallo again This is my Me-109 G-10. 1/32 Kit is Revell. All painting, insignia, and stencils are as explained in: Stencils are wet transfer from HGW. Happy modelling

Hallo again This is my Me-109 G-6. 1/32 Kit is Hasegawa. All painting, insignia, and stencils are as explained in: Stencils are wet transfer from HGW. Happy modelling

Hallo again This is my Me-109 E-4. 1/32 Kit is Eduard. All painting, insignia, and stencils are as explained in: Stencils are wet transfer from HGW. Happy modelling

Hallo again This is my Me-109 E-3. 1/32 Kit is Eduard. All painting, insignia, and stencils are as explained in: Stencils are wet transfer from HGW. Happy modelling

I found this aircraft listed as a future release for October on the Hannants website, and I´m wondering if it´s going to be a reboxing of the Eduard Bf 109F-2. The price is really tempting too. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3893

After becoming frustrated with ICM/Revell´s Mustang Mk.III in 1:48 (and sending it to my spares box with most pieces on their sprue), I decided to pull this model out of my stash and build it as a relaxing build, which it was! The model offers the flaps and slats in the down position, and you can pose them up by cutting their respective mounting tabs. However, while removing the tab of one slat, I also removed a chunk of it, which was repaired by filling the area with CA. I also feared that, due to how thin the plastic on the slats was, that the plastic would damage if I used regular glue, so I used CA to glue the slats.

Formerly on 1/JG 7, yellow 17 was captured by 616 Squadron at Fassberg at wars end. It was ferried to the UK where it was designated Air Min 52 and brefily evaluated until being sold off to Canada. It was scrapped with 300 odd other surplus aircraft in Canada in 1947. The kit is the very nice Tamiya 1/48 offering with Cutting Edge decals.

Bf.109G-10 Mtt Regensburg ProfiPACK (82119) 1:48 Eduard There must have been billions of words written on the Bf.109 over the years, which was the mainstay of the Luftwaffe's fighter arm, despite having been supposedly superseded by the Fw.190 and others during its service life. It kept coming back to prominence due partly to it being a trusted design, the manufacturer's substantial sway with the RLM, and the type's ability to be adapted as technology advanced. The G or Gustav as it was known was one of the later variants, and is widely regarded as one of the more successful, with improved armament that give some variants a distinctive pair of blisters in front of the windscreen, plus mounting points for the 210mm rocket tubes used to disrupt the bomber streams in long range attacks using timed detonation. The other minor changes were targeted at Defense of the Reich, removing the mounting points and hardware for long-range tanks etc. The G-10 was fitted with the new DB605D-2 engine that was later seen on the K, and became the de facto standard Gustav once introduced, often using as-yet unfinished G-14s as the starting point, which has confused some researchers in the past. It was fitted with the sleek Erla-Haube canopy and a deeper oil cooler under the nose that sets it apart from previous issues along with some small blisters just forward and below the exhaust stacks. It also had a swept-forward installation of the radio antenna under the wing leading edge, all of which you can see on the box art. The Kit This boxing depicts airframes that were manufactured at Messerschmitt's own Regensburg factory, and as you can imagine, it shares some sprues with earlier variants from Eduard, most notably the G-14 that came before and overlapped its tenure. With this being a ProfiPACK issue, it arrives in the orange banded box, with four sprues of grey styrene, a clear sprue, two sheets of Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of yellow kabuki-style masking medium (not pictured), two decal sheets for markings and stencils, and of course the instruction booklet. The build process will of course be familiar to anyone that has either built a 109 before, and/or owns one of Eduard's other Gustav offerings. Where it differs is in the new fuselage halves, which have all the requisite lumps and bumps mentioned above, plus a new lower wing sprue (half) that has a small hole for the clear isolating panel at the base of the antenna. The build of course begins in the cockpit, with PE and styrene parts aplenty, plus a nice transparent fuel feeder pipe, which is clear so that you can mask the vision port and paint the rest. This was a lo-fi way for the pilot to quickly check whether his engine was sucking vapours, or had gone pop for some other reason. PE seatbelts are included, and a choice of PE or styrene rudder pedals, depending on how dexterous you are feeling. The instrument panel is laminated from layers of pre-painted PE, with the new glossy, slightly domed dials already present on the frets, which Eduard have slyly introduced recently with little in the way of fanfare. The sidewalls too are decorated with more painted PE parts, after which you can close up the fuselage unless you're treating yourself to a resin engine or other goodies. Don't forget to trap the tail wheel between the halves, or you'll regret it later. The backplate for the spinner and exhaust stubs are installed, and the top cowling with gun inserts is glued into place along with the intake for the engine's turbocharger, a PE hinge section on the top of the cowling, and a choice of PE flame-hiders for the exhausts, which vary between markings options. The G-10 had an extended fin, which is separate from the fuselage on this boxing, breaking at a convenient panel line to ease the way. The elevator fins are each two parts and fit using pins, with separate elevators and a choice of two rudder types. The wings are only slightly different from the norm, with the usual (but new) full-width lower, main gear sidewalls and split upper wings, plus a gaggle of separate parts for the leading-edge slats (gravity deployed when stopped), ailerons, and the two-layer flaps that butt up to the back of the radiator bays, which have PE skins front and back, as does the extended chin-scoop that identifies it as a G-10. A scrap diagram shows the correct positioning of the flaps when they are deployed. The main gear is the same narrow-track stuff from earlier models, with separate tyres and hubs, plus captive bay doors, socketing into the bay using nice strong parts, and with hub masks for easy painting of the wheels. A tiny square clear part is supplied for the aerial isolator and a mask is on the sheet, with a choice of styrene or PE aerial, and here my review sample had a short-shot of this delicate part, which is the first time ever that I have seen this happen on an Eduard kit. The PE backup is there of course, and as it happens I have a set of the resin FuG16 antennae that we reviewed recently here. You'll want to check part I17 on your sprues however, just in case. Horn-balances are fitted to the ailerons, a small raised panel under the wing trailing edge is added from PE, and a circular panel on the flank of the fuselage needs to be filled for authenticity's sake. As the build draws to a conclusion, the gunsight is added from a partially painted (by you) clear part, and if you add a little translucent green/blue to the edge to simulate the thickness of the glass, it will improve the look of the finished part. The windscreen has a couple of small PE parts added to it before you can glue it to the front of the squared-off cockpit opening, and the uber-sleek Erla-Haube canopy has a windowed head armour part that will need masking from the enclosed sheet and painting before it is fitted. If you have treated yourself to a set of Tface masks that allow painting of both interior and exterior surfaces of the canopy, the additional small parts added will gel nicely with this improvement. A stubby aerial fits to the top rear of the canopy, and you have a choice of PE or styrene DF loop antenna for the spine a little way back. The canopy can be posed open by using the thin PE restraint that's included on the fret, which allows you to set the correct angle when open. The prop is a single part, which has the two-piece spinner fitted around it, after which you can either glue it in place, or leave it loose for travel and impromptu spinning if you like. A trim actuator for the rudder and a tiny aerial under the fuselage are the last parts on the PE fret, which ends the construction phase unless you have chosen markings option C, which has a two-part drop-tank on a four prong mount under the centre of the fuselage. Markings As is usually the case with ProfiPACK editions, there are five marking options included in the box, with a nice broad range of colour options, some of which have interesting and fairly unusual quirks to them. The main sheet contains all the national, unit, and theatre markings, while the smaller sheet is full of stencils, which are detailed on a separate page to avoid cluttering each full page set of profiles. You get spinner decals where appropriate, so you're not left wondering how on earth you're going to do them, so all you have to worry about (if you do) is the various mottle and scribble patterns that are seen on all but one of the aircraft. Option B is perfect for the mottle-phobic, as it is a bare metal Mosquito Hunter from Fassberg, which was stripped and polished to give it the best chance of swatting those superbly swift Mossies. 1./ KG(J) 6, Prague – Kbely, Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia, March/April 1945 W. Nr. 130342, 5./ NJG 11, Fassberg, Germany 1945 W. Nr. 130297, flown by Fw. Horst Petzschler, 10./ JG 51, Bulltofta, Sweden, May 1945 13./ JG 27, Schleswig – Holstein, Germany, May 1945 W.Nr. 130282, flown by Hptm. Franz Wienhusen, CO of IV./ JG 4, Frankfurt/Rhein-Main, Germany, November 1944 All the decals are printed in the Czech Republic with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The black is a little dominant on the instrument panel decals, but as we have a PE panel anyway, it's hardly of great importance! Conclusion Another great 109G kit from Eduard that has plenty of detail out of the box, and can be upgraded even further in the detail department if you're minded to add the extra resin and PE sets that are patterned for the kit and available separately. ProfiPACK Kit EduART As Eduard have such consistently good box art they began offering prints in special editions of their models, but have now modularised the art so that you can buy it separately, or along with your kit. The print arrives in a cardboard folio, the flap of which is taped shut, and has a card flap to lock it closed again once the seal is broken. Inside is the print, safely sandwiched by two pieces of white card to prevent any scuffing of the printed surface during storage or shipping. The print measures 59.5cm x 42cm, and there is a border around the artwork to make framing easier, plus a caption underneath for those that don't immediately know what they're looking at. I have outlined the canvas of the accompanying picture in black to demonstrate the proportions and size of the artwork in relationship to the overall size of the print. The EduART logo is found at the bottom of the caption in the centre. Print quality is impressive, and at this size it makes for an imposing picture, eliciting a "whoa!" from my son when I pulled it from its folio. EduART Print Overtrees (82119X & 82119-LEPT) If you have one of these new kits but wanted to do another decal option in addition, or have an aftermarket decal sheet in mind, you'll be pleased to know that you can get just the sprues from the Eduard site, and if you want to add some detail, you can also get a set of Photo-Etch to go with it. They arrive in a white box with a sticker on the end, with all the styrene in the one bag, and the clear parts bagged inside that for their safety during transport and storage. The Overtrees as they're called can only be bought directly from Eduard, so click on the button below to pick up yours. You can also download the instruction booklet if you don't already have one from the main kit page. Kit Overtrees Photo-Etch Overtrees Review sample courtesy of