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Here's my attempt at the 1/72 special livery Italeri "Big Cat" kit. Also used for some photographic practise, hence the variety of shot styles (sadly a memory card failed, so I've lost a chunk of the 'plain' model shots, and haven't the patience to go back and redo them all!). Mostly built OOB but an aftermarket seat, Eduard etch airbrakes/brake pipes/nose probes/nosegear door, and the ladder is from Flightpath. I scratchbuilt the removable intake FOD covers and the fuselage beacon, and also modified the main gear quite a bit to better represent the complicated cylinder arrangement. I also cut and re-set the flaps/ailerons/slats to try to better represent the usual 'droop' when the aircraft systems are shut down. Hataka acrylic grey paint, then those rather tricky decals over half the airframe. Loads of setting solution required! Italeri Jag kits don't have the best rep but I'm fairly pleased with this one. Thanks for looking! Here's a quick look at the evolution of the main undercarriage legs, in case anyone's interested: I've been frustrated that no kits (or 1/72 aftermarket parts) seem to have the correct look for the really complex multiple cylinders and rods on the real thing. The first view is the kit leg with the Eduard etch brake lines attached, at which point I decided to try improving a bit...the incorrect thin cylinder/pipe was removed, then various bits of plastic tube, filler and copper wire were added before painting and oil weathering (plus a couple of tiny bits of decal for the placards). Hard to make out much detail at that scale (each leg is only about 1" or less).

This is my new project. A vehicle i don't know much about so i have some research to do. The kit itself looks good. Italeri even added some PE parts. The kit comes with a basic interior. Verry exited to start with this one. I'll keep you guys posted.

Lamborghini Diablo (3685) 1:24 Italeri via Wonderland Models After the success of the Countach, Lamborghini developed its replacement in the mid-80s with a design brief that it should be capable of getting close to 200mph, which it later managed to surpass. A mid-project redesign took away some of the sharper lines that resulted in a sleek, streamlined design that was a huge improvement on the already gorgeous Countach, all in my humble opinion of course. It reached the market at the beginning of the 90s with a 5.7L fuel-injected V12 engine mounted in the centre of the chassis, driving the rear wheels, continuing the long tradition of Lamborghini cars that appear totally insane and want to kill you. Awesome! Later versions gained ABS, electric windows and other modern features that we now see as an absolute minimum standard for even the cheapest car. That cheap car may have better rear vision, but it doesn’t look or perform like a Diablo though. A roadster variant made its debut in ’92, and the later VT model introduced all-wheel drive, which has stayed as one of Lambo’s preferred features that makes their cars a lot less murderous of their drivers thanks to the extra grip. The car got a facelift at the end of the ‘90s, replacing the pop-up lights with fixed units, cosmetic additions and some of the more successful mechanical upgrades that had been tried out over the previous years. Various special editions and upgrades were unleashed during the rest of its time on the market, including a bored-out 6L engine and some special editions, some of which were designed with the racetrack in mind. Following a number of attempts to create its successor that finished in dead-ends, the Murciélago was developed as the Diablo’s eventual replacement, hitting the forecourts just after the turn of the millennium. The Kit This is a reboxing of the original 1990 tooling from Italeri in the de facto vehicle scale of 1:24. The kit arrives in a top-opening box with two sprues in black styrene, one sprue plus the bodyshell in red plastic, a chromed sprue containing the hubs and some small parts, four flexible black tyres in their own bag, a clear sprue, a small decal sheet and trifold A5 instruction booklet in black and white. While this isn’t a brand-new tooling, it does have some solid detail in the engine bay and the suspension area, with the interior compartment represented by a large number of parts that should result in a good replica. Construction begins with the front suspension wishbones and steering components, which are covered by an insert with more structure to hold the hubs in place. The brake discs are added to the keyed stub-axles, and the discs have a concentric ring pattern moulded-in, which seems at variance with most disc brakes I’ve seen. There are also ejector-pin marks on one side, so it would probably be best to remove all the surface detail before fitting unless I’m totally wrong about the veracity of the grooves. The same task is carried out at the rear, adding the underside of the transmission block, then the chassis tray is put to one side while the interior is made up. The Diablo is a two-seater, and the cab is commensurately short to which the two seats, door cards, the dashboard with separate instrument binnacle that has decals for the instruments are added. The steering wheel is left-hand drive, and comes with a separate column that has the stalks moulded-in, a central gear-shift, handbrake on the left side for you to snag on when you exit the vehicle, and a grab-handle on the right side of the dash so that the co-pilot doesn’t end up in the driver’s lap during spirited cornering. Paint call-outs are included for everything in black circles, including the switch-gear on the door cards, and the tiny rear window is fixed to the back of the interior once internal painting is complete. The cab assembly is dropped into the lower bodyshell along with the floor of the engine compartment, which is detailed further by adding the top of the cylinder blocks and their respective air intakes, and what looks like the fuel injection rail in the recess between the blocks, again with more paint call-outs. The four wheels and their push-on tyres are added to the stub-axles using two small parts to complete the axles per wheel, then the assembly is put to the side to focus upon the topside. The bodyshell leaves the box with many of the panels moulded together as one part, but some sections are separate parts through necessity to achieve the complex shapes around the body. The prominent intakes behind the side glazing are one such insert, and at the rear there is a sink-mark on each one that should be filled before it is installed to make the task easier. The rear is also separate and made from three parts including splitters, which has the clear light parts and number plates added, with the same task completed for the front air dam. The glazing for the cab is one part that includes both the windscreen and side windows and is fitted with a rear-view mirror at the front, although anyone looking for the headlining will see through the hole in the glazing to the roof above. The exhaust tips under the rear valance are chromed for your ease, and each of the four parts attach to paired styrene pipes that disappear into the engine bay. Wing mirrors with chromed glazing are fixed to the doors, a single large windscreen wiper with separate blade are added to the windscreen/scuttle area, then the cover for the engine bay is made up of the main louvred section with a “wing” at the front, plus two small hinges that should allow you to pose it open if you wish. Markings You can paint your Diablo any colour you like, although the red on the box top looks appealing to my eyes. You get a choice of three styles of number plate decal, the afore mentioned instrument dials for the interior, some angry bull motifs for the hubs, and some badges for the sides, front and rear of the vehicle. The final decal is a D overseas badge for Germany that doesn’t appear on the line-drawn decal instructions. Decals are by Zanchetti (which I’ve just found out I’ve been misspelling for years), which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion The Diablo is a fine example of 90s excess, and this kit captures the lines well, has a decent amount of detail, pre-chromed parts and a reasonable price tag that recommends it further. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Good day, I am checking in with my second completed kit for the year. This is the Arma Hobby F4F-4 Wildcat ( Expert Set ). I depicted it as flown by Capt. Joe Foss while based at Henderson Field on the island of Guadalcanal. Here are some of the highlights of the kit…………. 1. No shortage of parts both plastic and photo etched 2. Canopy / windscreen masks included. 3. Semi bulged tires included. 4. Wide variety of decal options including a Royal Navy version ( correct parts included for the RN version ) 5. Weathered using pastels, paints, and washes This is a bit of a complicated kit to assemble. Care needs to be primary concern especially early in the build process as alignment issues can become worse. I only recommend this model for those who have more experience. Thank you in advance, Mike I decided to assemble and paint the airfield base from Italeri for the Wildcat. Included with the kit was the PSP base, guard tower, fuel / oil drums, sand bags, and “Jerry” cans. The Jeep and trailer are from Academy and the figures are from various sources. The palm trees are from Pegasus and JTT. Unfortunately, I could not find any appropriate dressed personnel for the scene depicted in my “stash”. We all know that aircrew and maintenance dressed in an entirely different manner in the tropics but this is what I had at the time. And lastly, while I should have posted these pictures first for this subject, here are some of the details one will find with the Arma Hobby Wildcat unfortunately much of which will not be seen.………….. And the overall number of parts within the fuselage before gluing the halves together……………….

This kit, resident in my stash for ages - and I can't remember buying. These parts. Huge thanks to @mike c for for the Matchbox decals, enabling Bravo November. The only RAF Chinook to survive the Falklands conflict. A bit of story of my previous Chinook model, and some motivation for this one is in the chat thread - BUT I'm going to RAFM Cosford tomorrow, where Bravo November is their latest addition.

Hello all, Here's my just finished 1/72 A-10A, done as an early 1980's one from Myrtle Beach AFB in South Carolina. I used the Revell rebox of the Italeri kit, which I got for my birthday last year from a friend. I added an Aires cockpit set, some Quickboost intakes and a pair of Brassin TER's. The camo was done freehand with MRP, and the markings came from a Wolfpak sheet and some kit stencils. The kit is not perfect by any means, but in the end it looks like an A-10. Thanks for looking! Pete

I have three boxes of various Italeri parts, part built turrets and hulls that I got from a mate for free! I am going to attempt to build a M4A1 (76mm) from the components I have and anything else out the spares box. I might even end up being a kitbash between the Italeri and old Tamiya kit as I have plenty of parts for those too! Regards Grahame

I started new project because Lancia S4 project is slow and waiting some paints to get forward. I was hoping this to have simple and fast project, but looks that this is not true and this will be more challenging that I wished. General information This car was developed for season -83 to replace Gr.6 car LC1 that was built for previous season. LC2 was made to meet new Gr.C regulations. LC2 was built with Dallara who designed the chassis and engine partner Ferrari. Engine was in first season 2.6 liter twin turbo. Turbos were from KKK and four valves per cylinder. Transmission was from Hewland Race History -83 Car was raced first time in Imola -83 and was able to take pole position. This race was showing what was coming for this car. In good and bad. Leading car got out due to tyre problems and second car was 12 laps behind winning car. Next time Lancia managed to finish race in 5th race of season. In seasons two last races Lancias managed to finish second place. Kit This kit is originally done by Protar and is typical for period. First it was released in 1984 and I was not able to get this kit at period. Re-release was done by Italeri in 2019 and this is what I have in my hands. There is no updates done in kit, so it is what was also in Protar boxing. When I look this kit I have a bit mixed feeling. Based on decals kit should present season -83 car. I need to look my reference materials how close to this season car this really is. Le Mans car clearly needs some changes at least in head lights area. Good things: Main body looks quite good, there are some sink marks, but these should be quite easy to fix. Decal sheet look good and contains full sponsor logos. Even that in box art spnsor logos are covered in black. Cockpit details are ok for this scale and can be improved with small work. Mass produced kit is available, so we have starting point for build. I am aware that there is Modellers kit available. But this kit is really rare. Tamtech also made one, but this is designed for slot racing and I am not sure how accurate it is because it was fit for slot racing rules. Not so good: This is curbside kit, so there is no engine detail or anything for gearbox. Gearbox end should be somehow visible from rear and even partial part would have been nice in this area. Suspension have nothing to do with real thing. In rear there is only straight rod going and that is all. In real thing there is double fish-bone. In front there is toy like steering that front wheels can turn, but nothing that looks like real thing. Body is very thick molding I have understood that kit was also sold as a metal kit. This explains this and I think explains some sink marks in molding. These thick parts look some areas really bad. Lowers above front wheels look also really bad and unrealistic. Definitely need replacing. In body is also strange cap. Lower side of body have a 0,5mm mismatch both sides. In real car is nothing like this. Air intake in front looks too small and floor fitting in front looks also too thick in front also side exhaust part looks really unrealistic. Door windows also look too small and need to look how to fit these correctly. One issue is also that kit can be built to fit only certain races in season. Rear wing configuration was different between races. if someone want's build a later wide-body car heavy modification is needed. This time I don't have photos of un-started kit, but some first steps. Cockpit started General view of body Issue in body molding. So wish me a good luck. This is not going to be fast build I was hoping yesterday evening.

And my dad started the next addition to the French theme. Using the Italeri boxing of the Occidental kit Gonna do the boxart scheme DSC_0007 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr using some Eduard PE parts for cockpit detailing DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr

Hello All! Let me present to you my version of the famous "Really George", Col Laven F-104C, one of the most striking (and expensive!!!) scheme worn by century fighter! I wanted to build the Zipper with this livery and I did a lot of research to find some photos of the real bird. Surprisingly, I found only few pix, but sufficient to start the work. Finding for inspiration from other modelers, I found that many "Really Georges" builds, whatever the scale and displayed in the Web sported wrong interpretations of this decoration. So my challenge was to do a "Really George" as accurate as possible. I chose the Italeri Starfighter, very basic and plenty of flaws but having the great advantage to be accurate in dimensions. However, a lot of work is needed to improve the kit, especially for the nose section which is too thin, in the cockpit, L/G area, external tanks and, not but not least the canopy which is too flat. This is, as a summary, what I did: - Riveting and panels corrections (e.g. NACA air scoop engraved on the front fuselage right electronic bay, Italeri did an F-104G air scoop, ventral air louvres...); - Nose / cone section: a 1mm evergreen card inserted to correct the shape; -Dropped leading edge; - Cockpit AIRES + ejection seat, "tweaked" to be the first version installed on early F-104C; - Arrester hook suppressed and ventral fin elongated; - All Wheel wells re-done with wiring and tubing, doors modified because too thick; -L/G with wiring and tubing, wheels from aftermarket; the front L/G has been redone from scratch, original too simple; - Vacuform canopy, to include the inner framing; - External tanks: I used the ones provided in the Revell F-104C kit, but elongated by 3mm. Fins are changed (for the early F-104C, all fins have the same dimensions) and made from aluminium soda can, as well as the two little finlets on the top of the tanks; Painting the kit took a little bit of time, using different shade of Alcald II, trying to reach the correct shiny look. Wing Extrados is white, but the intrados are left unpainted (NM). The most important: Decals: I bought the "Albatross ALC-72006" decal sheet to figure out that most of the decals were wrong in color and shape, especially the stripes which are not in color sequence and inverted. Rats! so I bought as replacement the Micro-scale 72358 sheet, the Rocketeer Decals one who seems to be the best was unavailable. What a deception! the Microscale decals were also inaccurate and, when correct, melted in little pieces in the water.😫. So finally I decided to do the decoration by myself, using yellow, red, dark blue and green decals sheets cut accordingly. It was long, painful, especially for the twist in front of the tanks, but I am not too disappointed by the result. As a conclusion, what was sought to be an easy build was a long journey but I hope the work is worth the result. Here are the photos: The real thing: My "Really George': ...And, as usual, a little Dio: the tow bar and access ladder are home-made, the little Ford F1 pickup transformed a s "follow me" comes from F4 Models, a nightmare to build! Enjoy and rendez vous soon for another F-104C build!

Finish no2 for 2022 is Italeri's new tool F35B in 1/72, I went for this one over the Hasegawa kit as this one has the internal weapon bays the Hasegawa kit does not. Built OOB in landing trim, so the inner weapon bay doors are 3/4 open but the outer doors stay closed, I presume this acts as the strakes/gun pods did on the harrier controlling the jet vortex under the aircraft . The kit goes together well but needs some care when fitting the large intake/lift fan assembly between the fuselage halves. Painted with Mr Hobby Colour H305 Dark Gunship Grey, H308 Light Gunship Grey and then lightly over sprayed with Hakata Orange line Have Glass Grey to give the metallic sheen seen on the F35's. No weathering as these are new airframes and the ground crew will be looking after them. The decals include some RAM tape panels which I initially fitted but after checking pictures of RAF F35 I removed as they seemed to be applied to the earlier F35's that went to other countries. As usual all comment welcome and hopefully the pictures show up as I'm still on Village Photo.

Hi all and this is my latest (and longest) finish, Italeri's 1/72 Spitfire Mk. Vb. Started about 3 years ago, finally finished this week for the KUTA group build. Shortish build thread is here. The kit was a struggle for me and that's shown in the final finish - the wingtip parts fit was very iffy, as was the nose. The prop blades are far too skinny and the raised detail for the wing .303s is way too heavy. The aftermarket wing roundels are too big (or the wing is too narrow) as they shouldn't overlap the ailerons. My efforts at oil fading were very iffy. I could go on but it's a hobby after all! 😆 Aftermarket decals (which were lovely) are for Wing Cdr Brendan 'Paddy' FInucane of 154 Squadron, July 1942 just before he was KIA following a fighter sweep. Thanks for looking and happy modelling. Dermot Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (1) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (8) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (2) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (3) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (4) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Italeri_1_72_Spitfire_Mk5b_Finished (6) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr

Opening a new thread for this sea-surface striker. Bought at some model show Options, I'm planning the French camo version 14F. Parts.

Finally time to post my RFI of my Blackbird build completed and in its Barn. I toyed with Sled Shed and Habu Hut but settled on Blackbird Barn! it’s the old Italeri kit that I picked up before the Revell one came out. Not as detailed but I added lights and wanted the diorama more than the stand alone jet. Thanks to many, including @Alan P, @Serkan Sen, @billn53 and many others who have supported along the way. The shed and start cart, step and other bits are scratch built She is finished as 64-17974 in the late black and red scheme of the mid 80s at Det 4. Ichi Ban herself, as displayed at the Mildenhall Airfete in 84, when I was there watching. Decals are from the Caracal set. Even got a pilots autograph! So all done now - thanks for looking The build can be found at And the Shed build

Hi All, My latest completion is Italeri's Stirling Mk.I. Much has been written about this kit, not all of it complimentary. I actually started the kit over 4 years ago, but quickly got the fear, and it has since lurked in the stash shaming me. I therefore girded my loins in January and got on with the build. The boxing I had included decals for BF372 of 149 Sqn, based at RAF Mildenhall in 1942. This aircraft was flown by an Australian pilot, RAAF Flt Sgt (later P/O) Rawden 'Ron' Middleton VC. On 28th November 1942 his aircraft was badly damaged on a raid to the Fiat aircraft works at Turin. Despite suffering multiple grievous injuries, including the loss of his right eye, Middleton managed to complete a 4 hour flight to bring the stricken aircraft back to the English coast. Five of his seven crew then baled out (the front gunner and flight engineer remained aboard to try and persuade Middleton to carry out a forced landing). Following his refusal to do so, the remaining crew baled out but did not survive the night in the English Channel. Middleton stayed with the aircraft, which ditched into the Channel, his body not washing ashore until February 1943. Middleton was posthumously awarded the Victoria Cross and promoted to Pilot Officer. Here's a picture of Middleton during his flying training: I cannot find any period photos of BF372, but there are several photos of other 149 Sqn aircraft: Here's a link to the WIP if anyone is interested. The build was mostly OOB, although the decals proved somewhat troublesome. I therefore had to spray some of the squadron and aircraft codes. Here's a couple of shots from during the build just to show some of the interior detail: Although much has been written about the deep panel lines on this kit, I was happy with the result after a couple of coats of primer and a light sanding. Anyways, enough waffle and on with the photos: Finally, here's a couple of shots with some other Bristol-powered loveliness: I'm glad to have finally got this one over the line after such a long period lying dormant. I must thank several people who have helped along the way - @12jaguar @dogsbody @elger @Heather Kay @Dave Swindell have all contributed knowledge which has improved the build immensely. Thanks also to all of those who have provided encouragement and kind words along the way - it has been much appreciated as always! Thanks for looking, Roger

I’ve been thinking about adding more heavy metal to my USAFE collection, and what better way than a classic 80’s Phantom. Despite numerous holidays to East Anglia and bases such as Lakenheath, Mildenhall and Bentwaters, I never did manage to get over to Alconbury, so I never went to the apparently legendary ‘Owl End’ to see the Aggressors and Recon Phantoms. The best I can do, therefore, is to try and recreate one of the latter in its halcyon days, hopefully to look like this: This is what I’m starting with. Not ideal apparently but about one third the price of a Hasegawa kit! It looks like I’ll need to change from these slotted E stabilisers to flat ones. Anyone able to confirm? Two different camera noses in the kit though. Sloped or angled? I’m guessing either is possible … Aftermarket decals ready.

Moving on from my sea patrol F-4EJ Kai onto another anti-ship/sub platform. I've been itching to do this one for a while now...even though an A-6 would be more practical. More recent Italeri boxing of the old ESCI molds. This will be built as an early/mid '90s B, so all the ASW gear will still be onboard. Resin wing & tail folds by Wolfpack. Resin/PE engines by Metallic Details. Resin cockpit by Black Box, donated to the project by a local club member. Thanks Ray! I also have a pair of Eduard AGM-84D Harpoons. I'm undecided if I'm going to put anything in the weapon bays, though they have carried torpedos and Mk.83 bombs. I'll save that decision for later on. Progress on this one will be slow getting started, as my primary focus will continue to be getting the F-4 finished up...but I foresee needing some breaks in the painting and decals. Prepare for a disaster! The kit and goodies. Did a "quick" dry fit last night to make sure I wasn't going to have major construction hurdles to overcome, as a lot of the original kit is going to end up as spare parts. I didn't get around to cutting the tail off yet, so hopefully the tail fold fits as well as the wings. It's definitely going to take a bit of work, but nothing is jumping out that is going to be a huge hurdle. I'm not sure on the fit of the AM engine pylons...I need to do some research and also maybe try fitting up the kit pylons.

My first kit completed this year - AV-8S (VA-1) Matador, 1:72 Italeri (ex-ESCI). My 5th Harrier so far! Built out of the box (except for Pitot tube from Master, resin ejection seat from Pavla and some scratch). Italeri's kit is old and needs some work, but I'm quite happy with a result. Thanks for watching!

I had a decal sheet from Aerocalcas that I had bought in 2020, hoping I'd be able to use them on the new tool Airfix Dakota Mk.IV. However, I kept postponing the purchase of that kit, and it went out of stock. Fast forward to December 2021, I'd found that Hobbies Morón had the Italeri Dakota Mk.III and, after thinking I wouldn't be able to travel abroad to places such as Hannants or Mirax Hobbies (Chile), I decided to buy it. The Italeri kit is actually an ESCI mold, I don't know what that means, but I thought it'd be useful to state it. The kit has deep recessed panel lines, and the plastic is on the hard side. The parts have detail, but they're on the unimpressive side (though nothing can be seen through the cabin/cockpit windows). Fit for the most part was pretty good, however, the wings had some visible gaps that even to me were too much, so I filled them with CA. The fuselage join was filled (or I attempted to fill) by pressing the fuselage halves and making the melted plastic ooze from the area. I then scrapped away the hardened glue with my knife. Decals from Aerocalcas were very thin. I had one moment where the air on the bench turned purple, and that was when trying to add a decal that refused to leave off my finger. The decas didn't need any Microsol to set onto the panel lines, but I brushed some just to be sure. Once they were dry, I applied two coats of Revell's matt varnish and added the remaining parts. Paints used were all from the Revell Aqua range.

Due to the unavailability of the Airfix new tool C-47, I bought the Italeri/ESCI Dakota Mk.III in 1:72. I plan on using Aerocalcas decals to make it as CTA-15 from the Comando Aeronaval Antártico. Some of you may have seen my topic regarding the fit of the kit in the WW2 aviation section. I was warned about the fuselage and wings having poor fit, so I eagerly cut the fuselage and wings from their sprues to make some test fit. Turns out the fuselage has a ver goof fit, but the wings are a different story, having a sizable gap on the root. I'll see if I can add a spreader bar below the fuselage in order to widen the area.

Italeri is to release in 2022 (?) a new tool 1/32nd Macchi MC.202 Folgore kit - ref. 2518 Source: https://www.italeri.com/uploads/news/v3MVLXcbbQoOMhc7K6EQf04r6mGnCp3M2cEDY6a6.pdf V.P.

Joining you with this kit. Which will be very similar to my previous A-10 from 2018. And I'm probably going for one option on each side again.

Very, very late I know, but I have (many) reasons. I had originally intended to build this kit, but then mislaid the windscreen. It eventually turned up in mid-December, and when I checked, this Group Build had been extended. So in a rush of new-found enthusiasm, I decided I'd take it with me during my Christmas holidays (visiting family), and build it there. Note the extra sprue with the LGBs (just the two) and FLIR pod.

Hello guys, Just bought the Italeri Dakota Mk.III, and I need your help regarding details about the fit of the kit. I've read some build reviews in here, stating the kit had poor fit in some areas. I'll be picking mine next Wednesday, and I'd like to see the kit unpainted, showing the troublesome areas. P.D: The Airfix new tool kit was unavailable. Thank you all!

Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Italeri IS-2 Stalin, with tracks from OKB Grigorov, towing cable from Eureka, figures from CMK and stowage from Blackdog. Decals are from Colibri. Painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics, weathered with graphite pen, artist oils and real mud from the garden, mixed with white glue and pigments. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. The Italeri kit was released in 2006 and has been sleeping in my stash for many years. The recently released Blackdog stowage set inspired me to complete this build. It's designed for the 1/72 Zvezda kit, and not all parts fit the Italeri model, there seem to be some differences. I used OKB Grigorov resin tracks to replicate the characteristic 'sagging'. Thank you for your interest, best greetings from Vienna! Roman