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  1. Polikarpov I-153 detail sets Eduard 1:32 The new ICM I-153 is a lovely little kit, as reviewed HERE. But never one to miss an opportunity to improve a kit, Eduard have now released three sets of etch, (if you include the zoom set), and a set of masks. Detail Set (32929) - The parts are contained in this set on one sheet of etched steel, and one on a sheet of etched brass. The steel sheet is pre-painted, and it looks like Eduard have gone away from making these parts self adhesive. The sheet contains the instrument panels complete with the instrument faces on the backplate. A little dab of aqua clear will give them the appearance of glass fronts. The sheet also contains the myriad of coloured levers, knobs, additional instruments, rudder pedal support bracket, access doors, first aid kit and radio face panel. The unpainted sheet contains items such as the rudder pedal straps, cockpit sidewall framing, for which you will have to remove details on the kit fuselage and reshape the forward end, once the etched parts are glued into place. The largest parts on the sheet are those that make up the undercarriage doors, with outer panels, internal structure and brackets to fit the doors to the main legs and actuators, and the roof of each main undercarriage bay. There are also new grilles for the various vents, replacement struts and hinges for the horizontal tail planes and a new wiring harness for the engine. The set also includes a small sheet of acetate for use to replace the gunsight glass. Interior Zoom Set (33198) This zoom set contains only the above pre-painted sheet and allows the modeller to build a well detailed cockpit without the hassle of getting bogged down with detail that might otherwise be deemed superfluous. ; Seatbelts (32199) This small single sheet of etched steel contains the pre-painted seatbelts, and while it is quite simple, they do look really nice with the stitching picked out and some shading already added. They may take a little fiddling to make look the part, as they’re not as giving as cloth belts, but once glued in place, the will stand out, even in the small cockpit of the I-153. Masks (JX219) To complement the sets mentioned above, Eduard have also released a set of paint masks for the I-16, which helps masking the clear areas a whole lot easier as well as the wheels/tyres. Conclusion There’s never a kit release without Eduard set or two being designed for it as they are so prolific. Whilst not as comprehensive as some of the previous releases, (perhaps ICM got it right and didn’t need as much), they will add that extra level of detail sought by some modellers. It’s still disappointing that they chose to release the seatbelt set separate from what is basically an interior set, but I guess it gives modellers more choice on how much they want to add. Review sample courtesy of
  2. Pz.Kpfw.III Ausf.D/B (36402 for MiniArt) 1:35 Eduard MiniArt's new and growing range of Panzer III models in 1:35 gets the Eduard treatment with this new set that's designed to augment the detail already there. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. A single brass fret contains all the parts needed, which starts with a new set of fenders with workable hinges that depend upon lengths of 0.3mm wire that you must provide, and result in a highly realistic finished item. At the rear a set of detailed mesh panels are folded and fixed to the cooling vents under the rear apron. The kit jack block is replaced by an all-new three-section PE assembly that replicates the wood grain, and is held together by a frame each end and a carry-handle. This is fitted into a new bracket on the fender, and is accompanied by new shackles for the pioneer tools such as the axe, fire extinguisher, jack itself, pry-bar and the S-shaped track-tool. The moulded-in cleats must be removed from the tools first of course, and the area made good. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Hawker Tempest V Photo-Etch, Stencil Decals & Löök Upgrades (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard We've just finished the review of the gorgeous 100% new tooling of the mighty Tempest Mk.V in 1:48 from Eduard here (very much worth a look if you've not seen it already), and Eduard have very sensibly released a host of PE and resin sets to coincide with the launch. This review covers the PE, stencil decals and Löök sets, which arrive as usual in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The decals replace the film bag for a Ziplok bag, but are otherwise similar. You can see our review of the resin Brassin parts here. There are three PE sets, a stencil decal set and the Löök panel, as follows: Upgrade Set (48976) This single sheet of brass is a supplement to the PE that is included in the kit, adding more detail to the airframe, with new mesh panels in the chin intake and replacement cooling flap at the rear; additional details in the main gear bay; new laminated gear bay covers for the main legs and brake hose detail. Seatbelts STEEL (FE943) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Löök Resin Instrument Panel & Seatbelts (644006) This set contains a high-quality instrument panel moulded in black resin, which has been overprinted with instruments bezels, dials and switch-gear in much the same manner as is done on PE panels, but with a more 3D look due to the substrate used. No painting will be required, unless you wish to weather the black of the panel around prominent edges, and this also applies to the STEEL seatbelts that are included, which are slightly different to the set above, insofar as they have fold-over belt-buckles to add a further dimension to them, and even higher realism than the standard belt sets. Masks Tface (EX628) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything that's in the ProfiPACK boxing, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Landing Flaps (48977) Eduard landing flaps use an ingenious technique to achieve excellent true-to-scale flaps using few parts, and requiring the modeller to simply remove the retracted flaps from the lower wing, plus scrape the upper wings to accommodate the thickness of the completed bays. Each half of the two flap sections is constructed in the same manner, by twisting and folding over the attached ribs to create a 3D shape, with extra parts added along the way. The bays glue to the inside of the upper wing and the flap attaches to the rear wall of the new bay. Repeat this for the other side, and you're almost done. The bays have a "dimpled" panel in the small central section, and the detail is pressed through with the tip of a ball-point pen before installation, while a few small parts are added around the flaps, and a length of 0.9mm rod from your own supplies is fitted with hinge points that then mount in the bay, and the correct angle is shown in a scrap diagram. Stencil Decals (D48030) This is a separate re-print of the kit stencils, and arrives in a ziplok bag, with a card sheet behind it, and the locations printed on the instructions. We all know the quality of decals from Eduard, so we're assured they'll be in pretty good shape to help you stencil either your Overtrees kit, the kit decals you stuffed up on first time around, or another 1:48 kit of the type that you previously didn't have stencils for. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Messerschmitt 109G-6 Resin Upgrades (for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Tamiya have joined in with the recent spate of retooling of 1:48 109Gs, and their G-6 is now readily available. Eduard have a number of resin and Photo-Etch (PE) sets for these kits, and here come two more. As usual with Eduard's larger resin sets, they arrive in the oblong Brassin box, with the resin parts safely cocooned in dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions wrapped around, providing extra protection. The BIGSIN sets are supplied in a larger top-opening tray box with the same interior protection and layout. Bf.109G-6 Advanced (SIN64847 for Tamiya) This is an amalgamation of three sets for the Tamiya kit that have previously been released separately, with a healthy discount for purchasing them in one handy package. It contains the following three items: Bf.109-G Engine (648406) Consisting of four bags of resin in two shades of grey, a single sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) brass in a separate bag with backing card, and the instruction booklet, which in this instance is fairly substantial consisting of nine sides of folded A4. The set includes the gun bays in the nose, and begins with the construction of the main engine block, which has an amazing number of PE and resin parts added, even before you have left the first page of the instruction. The oil tank, engine mounts and turbocharger are installed too, with the gun bay next, linked with various hoses and bracketry. Looked on as a whole it seems quite daunting, but if it is like any other Eduard engine set, it will fall together once you have gone through making up sub-assemblies and painted them. The level of detail present and the care taken to explain it all thoroughly in pictorial format is stunning, with additional wiring needed from your stocks to do the whole thing justice and mimic the layout of the real thing. The installation requires the removal of the front part of the fuselage, which is where the magnets are housed that allow the stock kit to have removable panels. I find that a bit of a gimmick myself, as I can barely handle any of my kits without breaking the small parts off, so wouldn't want to be fiddling with the model after completion anyway. With the new resin engine showing off so much detail, I wouldn't want to hide it away anyhow! The rear of the gun bay latches neatly onto a couple of depressions on the kit, and then it is a case of wiring it in, and replacing the kit cowling parts with new resin ones that depict the parts in-scale, and with greater detail. The lower cowl is depicted unlatched on one side and swung down, which is held in place by PE tongues, while the upper cowling is opened on both sides gull-wing style, with a 19mm wire prop (from your own stock) holding them in place. An optional resin tropical filter is included if it is required, which has some detailed PE mounts to affix it to the cowling in front of the intake. This will not be a "quick slap it together" upgrade, but if you take the time to paint and assemble it correctly, it will provide your model with mind-blowing detail that simply isn't possible in styrene. Radio Compartment (648404) The radio bay comprises a two C-shaped 3cm internal sections of the fuselage plus a front bulkhead with radio gear, complete with ribbing and wiring detail. To this is added the gear on the floor of the fuselage within a small frame. You will of course need to remove the radio bay access panel from the fuselage and the moulded-in framework, and Eduard have sensibly provided a replacement made from two PE parts - the outer skin, and strengthening framework. Seatbelts (FE892) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Bf.109G-6/U4 Engine (648427 for Tamiya) Essentially the same engine as that described above in the BIGSIN set, this is meant for the /U4 sub-variant with the 30mm cannon firing through the prop, and having pored over the instructions for both, I can find very little in the way of differences other than a couple of part numbers in the centre of the gun bay mechanics as you'd expect, and a couple of hoses that are altered to accommodate the new layout. Review sample courtesy of
  5. I reviewed this lovely kit link here, as well as some aftermarket from Eduard's Brassin line, and just couldn't put it in the stash to linger there. There's something kinda nice about Fw.190s, although the Ta.152H is my all-time favourite of the derivatives if I'm honest. I broke out the instructions t'other day and picked options D and M from the two, as I had two cockpit sets, and one engine set. The Tropicalised version already needed its nose cutting to fit the filters, but I suspect that might come back to bite me a little when assembling the cowling comes around. Nevermind, I'll deal with that later The cockpits are ostensibly the same, with only a small detail in the side console of one of the tubs to tell them apart, so I've been labelling things with M and D for the very obvious reason. I prepared all the resin and assembled things into sub-assemblies for painting, with only the infinitely fiddly gunsights causing much gnashing of teeth due to the tiny size of the parts, and the fact that there's a slight weak-point between the base and the business end. Yes, I snapped one by way of finding out. Please feel free to learn from my mistake Next up was the engine, and that is a beautiful piece of resin & PE engineering, with clever methods used to put it together neatly without too much hassle. The wiring loom is fiddly of course, but the stiffeners were a piece of cake! They fit snugly into little c-shaped receivers that once you see them, are a doddle to hit with the parts dipped in CA at both ends. The fit is astonishingly accurate The parts can be made into assemblies for ease of main painting, so they along with all the cockpit parts have been prepared, attached to sticks & such, then painted with black primer so that any missed spots in the engine in particular can be passed off as shadows I said there were a lot of assemblies, didn't I? I wasn't kidding! Not much detail to be seen yet in a sea of black, but I'll start getting some colour on shortly, and hopefully you'll be able to see a bit more. You might notice I've been writing on the wood to remind me what base colour is intended for each area, but the detail painting is going to take the lion's share of the work before I can begin stuffing things inside fuselages Wish me luck!
  6. "Africa" Messerschmitt Bf 109F-4 & Bf 109G-2 Combo 1:48 Eduard Limited Edition The Messerschmidt Bf 109 is one of the iconic aircraft of WWII. The F-4 would use the 1332hp DB601E engine which would be fitted with a broader balded propeller for improved altitude performance. The aircraft would carry the new Mauser MG151 20mm cannon with 200 rounds per gun. Production of the F-4 would start in May 1941 and last a year with 1841 examples being built, 576 of these being the tropicalised version. The G variant of the 109, colloquially known as the Gustav was one of the primary fighters available to the Luftwaffe during the closing years of WWII, and saw extensive active service, all the while being upgraded to combat the increasing Allied superiority in the air. Happily for the Allies, the supply of experienced pilots was fast running out, so as good as the upgrades were, they couldn't make an appreciable difference to the outcome. The G-2 differed from the initial G-1 insofar as it eschewed the pressurised cockpit, and it was sometimes fitted with different head armour for the pilot The Kit We have previously reviewed the profipack boxing of the F-4 and the G-2, so will point you to those reviews if you want to see whats in the box here. This duel boxing contains one of each kit of the F-4, and The G-4 with the masks and photoetch you find in the profipack kits. In addition in this box you get some resin tropical filters and an impressive decal sheet. Decals This really is the main reason to get this boxing. The decal sheet is by Cartograf so quality is a given. There is a main sheet and stencils all in one, markings are provided for an impressive 12 examples; Bf 109F-4/Trop, W. Nr. 10137, flown by Oblt. Hans-Joachim Marseille, CO of 3./ JG 27, Ain-el-Gazala, Libya, June 1942 Bf 109F-4/Trop, W. Nr. 8673, flown by Hptm. Hans-Joachim Marseille, CO of 3./ JG 27, Quotaifiya, Egypt, September 1942 Bf 109F-4/Trop, flown by Hptm. Eduard Neumann, CO of I./ JG 27, Martuba, Libya, December 1941 Bf 109F-4/Trop, W. Nr. 10154, flown by Lt. Friedrich Körner, 2./ JG 27, Ain-el-Gazala, Libya, June 1942 Bf 109F-4/Trop, W. Nr. 8438, 4./ JG 27, El Gazala, Libya, end of 1941 Bf 109F-4/Trop, W. Nr. 8596, flown by Ofw. Erwin Sawallisch, 4./ JG 27, Quotaifiya, Egypt, August 1942 Bf 109F-4/Trop, flown by Lt. Jürgen Harder, 7./ JG 53, Martuba, Libya, June 1942 Bf 109G-2, flown by Fw. Anton Hafner, 4./ JG 51, Bizerta, Tunisia, November 1942 Bf 109G-2/R1, W. Nr. 10805, flown by Lt. Wilhelm Crinius, 3./ JG 53, Bizerta, Tunisia, January 1943 Bf 109G-2/Trop, flown by Hptm. Heinrich Bär, CO of I./ JG 77, North Africa, 1942 – 1943 Bf 109G-2/Trop, 2./ JG 77, North Africa, autumn 1942 Bf 109G-2/trop, W. Nr. 10533, flown by Uffz. Horst Schlick, 1./ JG 77, Bir-el-Abd, Egypt, November 1942 Conclusion This is a welcome release from Eduard for those who like the Mediteranean Theatre, or the avid 109 fan.. Not only do you get two ProfiPACKs but extra parts for the tropicalised machines, and a great selection of decals. If you want to make use of more of the schemes then overtrees are also available for the extra kits. Highly recommended. Africa Dual Combo F-4 Overtrees G-2 Overtrees Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hawker Tempest V Resin Upgrades (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin We've just finished the review of the gorgeous brand new tooling of the mighty Tempest Mk.V in 1:48 from Eduard here (very much worth a look if you've not seen it already), and Eduard have very sensibly released a host of PE and resin sets to coincide with the launch for those that just can't get enough detail. This review covers the resin sets minus the new Löök instrument panel, which is a bit of hybrid, so it's in with the PE sets on the basis that it shares the same packaging format. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box or a rectangular cardboard box for the larger sets, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. As always with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. There are five Brassin sets, as follows: Wheels Early (648420) & Wheels Late (648421) Kit wheels are generally in two halves, which means you have the resultant joins to deal with, possible mould-slip and sink mark issues on single part wheels, and sometimes less than stellar detail due to the moulding limitations of styrene injection technology, especially in the tread department. That's where replacement resin wheels come in, with their lack of seamline and superior detail making a compelling argument. They are also usually available at a reasonable price, and can be an easy introduction to aftermarket and resin handling, as they are usually a drop-in replacement. The early wheels here have a smaller diameter hub and larger balloon tyres, while the later ones have the opposite. Both sets include main and tail wheels, plus a set of masks (not pictured) to make painting the demarcations a breeze. Early (648420) Late (648421) Exhaust Stacks (648418) These simple drop-in replacements have deep hollow exists and rolled lips with much more crisp and finely moulded detail that lifts it head and shoulders above the already good kit parts. Just razor saw them off the blocks, glue them in and paint (or paint them first – your choice). Cockpit Set (648416) On opening the box you are greeted with a huge collection of fine resin parts in a number of bags, plus instrument decals, PE seatbelts and a small sheet of clear acetate film with the shape of the gunsight printed on multiple times. Due to the cockpit's location between the fuselage framework, there are a lot of delicate parts, but they have been sensibly moulded with flash supporting them where necessary, and clever use of pouring block locations that make liberating them a fairly easy task. The build begins with the framework parts for each side, to which lots of resin controls and panels are added along with the angled side consoles, which are detailed with more levers and controls as appropriate. A large portion of the main spar is provided and this spaces the two sides apart along with other framework parts, some of which are used later to support the floor, which isn't quite as solid as the kit floor would have you believe. The foot "trays" are fitted on top of the mechanics of the rudder and control column parts, with those parts added respectively, both having PE parts used to detail the yoke and pedals for the ultimate in detail. A pair of diagrams show the correct location of the assembly when joined with the framework, and you'll need to decide in advance which bits to attach together and when to apply paint. The seat is supported by two cross-braces, and has a set of pre-painted seatbelts to go with it that you can apply after painting. This is then inserted into the cockpit framework and is hemmed in by a bracketed piece of back armour, and the rear cockpit frame, so you'd better hope that you don't knock anything off inside after this stage. A fuel tank is plonked in front of the pilot (yikes!), with the highly detailed resin instrument panel laid in front of it, with decals provided for all the instrument faces, and separate compass part. The kit cockpit insert that is fixed into the aperture after the fuselage is closed gets a piece of resin head armour and a Y-shaped length of belt, over which another rail is glued. This is then fitted with the gun-sight with clear film glazing to the front, and set aside while the interior of the fuselage is detailed. The moulded-in detail is retained, and the equipment is augmented by resin and PE parts with much more detail squeezed in. The fuselage can then be closed around the cockpit, using the kit front bulkhead and remembering to put in the other kit parts that are encased in the fuselage, with the cockpit insert installed along with the shoulder straps of the seatbelts, hiding most of the awesome detail away. Gun Bays (648419) The gun bays on the model are moulded closed, so the first thing you'll need to do it cut the wing apart, making a T-shaped hole in each upper panel, following the panel lines shown in the instructions. You'll also need to chamfer the inner side of the landing light blister inside the lower wing, or your bays won't fit. The whole bay frame is moulded as a single part per wing, and is given a PE floor with the lower wing internal structure depicted. The two ammo boxes fit into the top of the T each side of the cannons, which are added after, and plumbed in with some small resin parts. The rear of the bay is a mixture of resin and PE parts to obtain the correct thickness of the trailing edge once the bay is offered up to the underside of the upper wing. It fits within the hole, recessed to give a more realistic look and thickness to the bay edges, which are then lined with PE parts that replicate the lip and fastener locations, with the front sections inlaid with more PE to depict the hinges so that the new resin bay doors can be attached folded forwards, while the aft section is loose and usually laid upside down on the wing when removed. A CAD image shows their correct orientation, and Mr Hobby paint codes are called out throughout construction to aid paint choices. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Tempest Mk.V ProfiPACK (82121) 1:48 Eduard The Tempest was a development of the Typhoon, and might account for my endless ability to get their names confused. Originally called the Typhoon II, it was envisioned to solve any and all of the issues that bothered its designer Sidney Camm. The main difference was a much thinner wing which reduced drag and improved aerodynamics of the laminar airflow. The wings could accommodate 20mm Hispano cannons that packed an enormous punch, and lent itself to the low-level attack role that it was designed for. The engines intended to power the aircraft were the Centaurus, Griffon and Sabre IV, and initially the Rollf-Royce Vulture, which was terminated early in the design phase, leaving the three options going forward and necessitating substantially different cowlings to accommodate their differing shapes. The Mark V was split into two series, with the Series 1 having the Sabre II that had a similar chin intake to the Typhoon and many Typhoon parts, while the later Series 2 used fewer Typhoon parts and had their cannon barrels shortened so they fitted flush with the leading edge on the Series 2s. A few of the early Mk.Vs were used as test beds, while other marks were developed alongside it, such as the Mk.IIs with Centaurus engines and a cylindrical cowl; Mk.VIs which had a very short production run; the Mk.III and Mk.IV that used a two types of Griffon engine and didn't see service, and later the TT.Mk.5, which is where a lot of Mk.Vs ended their days towing targets in garish colour schemes. The Kit This is a complete 100% new tool, and shouldn't be confused with their older Tempest V that's been around for ages, and has some known issues with its tail. It arrives in the standard ProfiPACK box, with a brand new painting on the front showing the Tempest upsetting a V1 "Doodlebug" flying bomb, which was one of their tasks due to their speed and ruggedness, with stories of tipping them with a wingtip, and blowing them up from way too close with cannon fire. Either way it's extreme bravery on the part of the pilots that helped to reduce the toll on London from these new "vengeance" weapons late in the war. Following on the heels of their recent Spitfire, 109 and 190 toolings, the Tempest is packed with surface detail that is at the leading edge of moulding technology and skill. The rear of the fuselage is festooned with raised rivets that are correct for this series, and there are differing width panel lines, a number of types of fastener, with the detail extended across the whole airframe. The interior is similarly well detailed with pre-painted PE instrument panel and seatbelts amongst other parts, which you can upgrade further by purchasing the Brassin set that's available separately. Inside the box are five sprues of dark grey styrene, a circular sprue of clear parts, a sheet of pre-painted and nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE), a set of canopy masks in yellow kabuki tape (not pictured), and the instructions with the profiles printed in colour in the rear of the booklet. Construction begins in the cockpit, which has a solid floor and framework sides, exposing the interior of the fuselage behind, which has been detailed by the designers inside the fuselage halves, showing great attention to detail. The seat, control column and rudder pedals are fitted to the solid areas, while the instrument panel and side consoles are suspended from the framework sides, which fit between the front and rear bulkheads, the latter being armoured and supporting the seat with a small framework of parts. The pre-painted belts are attached to the seat before installation, and more PE is used in the side consoles, resulting in a very neat and well-detailed cockpit. Before the fuselage can be closed around it, the interior area needs to be painted black (I prefer dark grey with a black wash), the simple tail-wheel bay needs constructing, and the complex radiator intake is built up from a substantial number of parts, which are shown with the correct order noted for your ease. You may want to pre-prepare some of the sub-assemblies in case there are any seams to fill in the intake trunking here. The final parts for the cockpit interior are fitted to the fuselage sides at this point, so that they show through the framework once it is installed. The lower wing is a single full-span part, and as you would expect the upper wings are separate parts that have the landing gear bay roof detail moulded in. The sides of the bays are added along with some detail parts in both bays, at which point the wings can be closed up and the whole assembly joined with the fuselage, and once the tail feathers with their separate rudder and elevators are fitted, that's the airframe ostensibly complete. The cockpit aperture is over-large, which allows an insert to be dropped in after it is fitted out with detail parts specific to this variant, the elevators and cannon barrel inserts are added to the wings, and it's then time to build and fit the landing gear. The tail wheel has a two part strut with Y-shaped yoke and separate two-part wheel that has an anti-shimmy groove moulded in, and two bay doors plus actuator for when the leg is retracted in flight. The main gear wheels have a large two-part balloon tyre with the Dunlop brand in raised letters on the side, and separate hubs for both sides to obtain the most detail. There is no tread, so hiding the seam on the tyre's contact patch will be easy, and if you like your wheels weighted, just sand a flat spot at the bottom. The gear legs are a single part each, and have a complex single-part retraction jack that extends inboard into the bay, with large captive bay covers on the leg, and smaller inner doors that fold toward each other on the centreline. A drop-down stirrup is fixed to the underside of the fuselage for the pilot, a pitot probe added to the wing, and a bunch of PE fish-plates are added to the transport joint at the rear of the fuselage, which were to correct a structural weakness in these early airframes that utilised some of the Typhoon parts. On the topside the two-part canopy is attached, with the opener having a styrene insert for added detail that latches into the track, with a whip-antenna just behind its furthest point when open. The four-bladed prop is a single part that is attached to the back-plate and spinner cap, then glued to the front of the fuselage along with a pair of exhaust stubs, which don't have hollow tips. There is a resin set that adds more detail and includes hollow tips that we'll be reviewing later, once we've finished drooling over this. The canopy masks also include a pair of dots for the tail wheel, and tread-plate masks for the root of each wing that will be useful to cover up an initial squirt of black before you begin painting the main colours. There aren't any weapons shown in the instructions, but they are available on the sprues in the shape of eight unguided rockets with moulded-in rails of the simplified and more traditional early types, plus eight separate tail fins, enough for one set of rockets. Markings There are six decal options included with this ProfiPACK edition, and due to this aircraft's service and duties, half of them are shown in D-Day markings, with the familiar black and white invasion stripes that stopped them getting shot at by their own people. The sheet is combined with a set of stencils that are also being sold separately for those with the Overtrees that can't get enough of their Tempests. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. From the box you can build one of the following: JN766, No. 486 (RNZAF) Squadron, RAF Station Castle Camp, Great Britain, April 1944 JN751, Wg Cdr Ronald P. Beamont, DSO, DFC & bar, CO of No. 150 Wing, RAF Station Bradwell Bay, Great Britain, April 1944 JN755, No. 3 Squadron, Newchurch, Great Britain, May 1944 JN751, Wg Cdr Ronald P. Beamont DSO, DFC & bar, CO of No. 150 Wing, Newchurch, Great Britain, June 1944 JN763, No. 486 (RNZAF) Squadron, Newchurch, Great Britain, June 1944 JN765, No. 3 Squadron, Newchurch, Great Britain, June 1944 Conclusion If this builds as well as the 109 or Spitfires from Eduard (and I suspect it will), it will be awesome. The kit is just packed with detail, and if you still want more, there are a whole host of PE and Resin sets that we'll be looking at in the near future. What an end to the year for Eduard! Eduard have shut down for the Christmas period at time of writing, and will be back on the 7th of January 2019. Overtrees (82121X & 82121-LEPT) If you have one of these new kits but wanted to do another decal option in addition, or have an aftermarket decal sheet in mind, you'll be pleased to know that you can get just the sprues from the Eduard site, and if you want to add some detail, you can also get a set of Photo-Etch to go with it. They arrive in a white box with a sticker on the end, with all the styrene in the one bag, and the clear parts bagged inside that for their safety during transport and storage. The Overtrees as they're called can only be bought directly from Eduard, so click on the button below to pick up yours. You can also download the instruction booklet if you don't already have one from the main kit page. Overtrees Kit Overtrees PE Review sample courtesy of
  9. This is a very slight conversion of Eduard's Bf109G-10 into the G-14A/S version see my WIP post Also my other RFI post. This Bf109G-14A/S is an aircraft of 2./JG77 Red '1' Wk.No.784930 January 1945, scheme is taken from the MMP book 'Bf109 Late Versions - Camouflage & Markings' Below I have posted some pics showing the result of my 'modification' of the cowling on the G-10 and G-14A/S:- Even built OOB the late model Bf109s by Eduard are to my mind the best around by my reckoning. I have now added the WNF G-10 to my stash which will also receive my 'modification'! Thanks for looking. Cheers Andy
  10. Allow me to present one of my latest builds this is Eduard's 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf109G-10 [MTT Regensburg]. Not happy with Eduards rendition of the asymetric cowling which I modified see build in WIP Forum. My build is a representation of the Bf109G-10 in which Heinrich Bartels met his death on 23rd December 1944 Yellow '13' Wrk.No. 130359 (an MTT Regensburg built machine) of 5./JG27. The remains of both pilot and machine were not discovered until January 1968! No photos exist of this machine so I based the finish on the other aircraft of JG27 at this time:- I leave it to the viewer to decide if you think I have improved on an already excellent product I myself am not 100% satisfied with the end result but I think the finished model represents the G-10 a little more accurately than the basic kit. Take a look at my 'conversion' of this kit to the G-14A/S version. Cheers Andy
  11. The Eduard line of Messerschmitt Bf109s love 'em or hate 'em we remain divided!!!! Personally I prefer them to the other two main competiters (Zvezda & Tamiya 1/48 of course) I know they have their faults but I don't feel they distract from the overall finished product (except the E series!). The latest in the line and my next two builds. A G-10 and a G-14/AS Mtt Regensburg, however I'm not satisfied with the Eduard rendition of the assymetric cowling which typifies these later sub types of 109. I think Eduard have captured the cowling shape well, but to my eyes and comparision with drawings and photos it looks too symetrical. Before this starts any great debate on this particular forum these views are my own personal feelings on this kit. If anyone is interested on discussions as to the 'accuracy' of this kit I refer you to the following links https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234947521-148-messerschmitt-bf109f-g-gustav-friedrich-family-by-eduard-next-variants-bf109g-14-avia-s-99c-10-october-2018/&page=6 https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/about-the-cowling-of-the-new-bf-109g-10-eduard-t497142.html https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/bf109g-10-oil-cooler-and-the-new-eduard-kit-t498072.html This is according to drawings, I found, the shape the cowling should be :- Plus these set of photos show the correct shape:- http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bf109detailbg_1.htm To my eyes as I stated before the Eduard rendition is too symetrical in comparision, so before the build commences something needs to be done to rectify the cowling shape. The following is my way of doing this. I removed the outlined portion of the cowling with a saw and then glued it back so this panel overlapped the fuselage by a fraction (eyeballed) this gave the cowling a slightly larger bulge. According to several photos I found the cowling overlaps the fuselage on the port side (as shown in the photos in the last link). The front of this panel very slightly overlaps where it rejoins the cowling, this I gently sanded down, in doing this it gives a little more emphasis to the bulge at the rear of this panel. I then turned my attention to the top of the cowling and removed the outlined portion of this:- I then glued this to to the portion of cowling I had previously removed and rejoined to the fuselage. This will result in a small gap when the top cowling is added to the fuselage but I will fill this with plasticard. Onto the starboard fuselage, again from the photos on hyperscale it shows an excellent shot of the fuselage minus engine which shows quite clearly the scalloped fairings behind the cowling. Here you can see the starboard fairing is not as deep as the port fairing, where as on the kit they are the same depth so some careful sanding is called for within the area outlined in the photo below:- This removes some of the surface detail which will have to be replaced later, the upper cowling will also require some sanding down. I actually found in MMP's publication 'Bf109 Late Versions - Camouflage & Markings' a 1/48 front view of the G-10 cowling which I traced onto card, cut out and used as a rough template to get the cowling shape to my liking! The pics above give an idea of what I was after, with the assymetric effect more pronounced than Eduards rendition. I applied some filler to the top cowling to make the bulge covering the modified engine bearer more pronounced. This will require more attention when the fuselage is eventually assembled. Leaving the fuselage for now I turned to the undercarriage legs, these according to critics are incorrect for the later G models so I made an effort of sorts to modify them my efforts are shown below. Whilst not completely accurate will satisfy me! With all my builds of Eduards 109s I slightly modify the exhausts by cutting down the backing they are moulded to so I can insert them after painting is done. I sand the stacks down a little themselves, as they appear to be slightly on the large size a criticism of all Eduard's 109G series. My final work for now was to replace the solid wingtip lights with transparent ones. for this I decided to use a method I read of on Britmodeller, using UV glue. The solid lights are removed then a hole is drilled, a very small one, in the corner of the cutout into this a piece of transparent sprue coloured with Tamiya red or green clear paint, to represent the bulb. The glue is then applied into the cutout filling it, the UV light supplied is used to cure the glue. The hardened glue can now be treated as transparent plastic, sanded down and restored to clarity ( I use Brasso metal polish) easy!! The last pic shows how the UV glue is supplied, mine came from Amazon who have quite a selection of these glues at various prices. A brilliant way to sort out wingtip lights. Well that's it for now, more to follow in due course happy to hear your thoughts on this build, Cheers Andy
  12. Here is my next project, it is the Profipack boxing of one of Eduard's first kits I believe. Great box art I reckon. I was intending just building the kit as is just for quickness, but in the end I couldn't resist adding some ribs and wires etc to the fuselage sides to complement the p/e supplied in the kit. Port, Starbord, The kit ejector seat was a little basic, I believe there was a resin one in the original boxing. Luckily Quickboost produce one intended for the Tamiya He162 was is near enough for me. With a bit of tweaking here and there it fit into the tub ok. I purchase some lead putty from a fishing tackle shop to use for the nose weight. To be continued. Tim.
  13. USS Enterprise CVN-65 Part 2 Eduard 1:350 With part 1 released last month and reviewed HERE, Eduard have now released Part 2. Flight Deck Equipment and Aircraft, (53-224). This single sheet set covers a lot of the deck equipment that comes with the kit, plus a lot of additional detail for each of the aircraft. Some of the deck equipment is completely replaced with PE vehicles, whilst others require quite a bit of surgery. The modeller is also required to provide plastic rod of varying thicknesses. The new equipment includes two gas bottle trolleys, two fire trucks and four fork lift trucks. The modified vehicles are the eight tow/starter/fire vehicles and the massively modified Jumbo crane of which only the rear box section and axles remain from the kit vehicle. Each of the fixed wing aircraft are provided with the very fine details that couldn’t realistically be done in plastic. These include undercarriage bay doors, arrester hooks, pylons, and replacement nose wheels. The S-3’s also receive a new sonar buoy panel, while the A-6’s get an extended aft electronic bay, plus a new ventral spine aerial for the F-18’s. Conclusion Since the ship is being given the Eduard treatment, then why can’t the air wing and deck equipment. This set, while being extremely fiddly will really add that pizzazz needed on the flight deck or hanger if you’re really going to town on the kit. Review sample courtesy of
  14. Spitfire Mk.IX Four Spoke wheel sets for Tamiya Eduard 1:32 The Tamiya 1:32 Spitfire Mk.IX is a beautiful kit throughout, but there are always ways of improving even a Tamiya uber kit, or at least that’s how Eduard think. These two sets provide the modeller the option for fitting different styles of tyres to their model. Both sets include a full set of wheels, including the tail wheel, which is a one for one replacement. The main wheels are split into three parts, the wheel and tyre, plus the inner and outer hubs, the inners having well produced brake detail. They also both feature the four spoke pattern wheels, the differences are the tyres themselves. Set 632 129 features smooth tyres, while set 632-130 features a treaded pattern tyre. All the parts are very nicely moulded and are easily removed from the moulding blocks due to the thin webs holding them to said block. A quick clean up after removal and you’re ready to glue the hubs in place, paint and glue to the kit undercarriage legs and your work is done. For ease of painting the sets also come with a sheet of masks to help give that clean paint job. 632 129 632-130 Conclusion As with any modelling it is best to check your references and build your Spitfire accordingly. With these sets you now have the option of building your model with the correct tyres if the ones in the kit aren’t suitable. The masks are a very handy addition too, just to make life that little bit easier. Review sample courtesy of
  15. Karabiner Kar 98K 1:35 Eduard Brassin More commonly known as the Kar 98 (to me at least), this was the staple bolt-action rifle of WWII for the German infantryman, although the MP40 gets all the attention in the movies. It entered service in the mid-30s and stayed in use until the end of the war, using a 7.92mm cartridge on a stripper-clip that made it easy to load up to five rounds into the rifle at a time, although it could also be fed manually if time wasn't of the essence. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. Inside are six rifles on three casting blocks, plus two more casting blocks with eight super-delicate bayonets. There is also a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) steel rifle slings, which have been pre-painted in leather and black colours on both sides. The smaller parts are for the opposite side of the stock where the sling pulls through and locates, and the front sling-loop where the length is adjusted for the comfort of the user. The rifles are attached to their pouring stub via the buttstock, which is easy to sand back to flat after removal, and a wafer thin flash extends up the rest of the stock next to a nearby, but disconnected, cylinder of resin to give them strength. This flash should be removed, which will be very easy due to its extremely thin nature. If you're feeling particularly brave you can also remove the small quantity of flash around the trigger, which is easier to do with a sharp knife than you'd imagine. Along with the six rifles are eight bayonets, and eight sets of slings, which is good to know, as those parts are very small and prone to pinging off or getting lost. Review sample courtesy of
  16. Here is what became the first of a run of 1:144 MiG-21s, mostly from Eduard, that I built back in 2011-2012. This is Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-21MF "Fishbed J" 5121, flown by Pham Tuan, of the 921st Fighter Regiment 'Sao Do', Vietnam People's Air Force, during the Vietnam War in the early 1970s. This is the Eduard kit built straight out of the box. It was completely painted by brush. Thanks for looking. Miguel
  17. Hello I have just finished this 1/72 Eduard kit of an East German Air Force MiG-21 MF from Jagdfliegergeschwader 3. at Preschen during the late 1980s. This will be published in the next issue of the French magazine "Avions de combat" Patrick
  18. Q: what do you do when your in-progress biplane is drying? You start another. Only you make sure it's really really tiny. Enter Eduard's Nieuport 23 in 72nd scale. I got the dual combo, which comes with two whole models, PE details, and a bevy of Belgian, French, Tsarist Russian, and Czechoslovakian markings options. For the first build, I think I'll go with this Russian plane with Bob written on both sides in cyrillic. I'm digging the Russian roundels and the cool looking empty cockades. So far, I've given the cockpit parts a nice woody look. Base coat was Tamiya flesh. The grain is brown artist acrylic, all sealed with clear yellow and orange. The PE side framing has been primed white for now. And yo, look; I wasn't kidding when I said this thing is tiny. I would have included a coin for comparison, but this is an international forum and our coins vary. So instead I spoke in a language most of us will understand. beer. Flying Dog, the best thing out of Maryland since....maybe since ever.
  19. My dad couldn´t resist and already unpacked the sprues of his today´s birthday present 😁 DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  20. Mig-23ML/MF Resin Update Sets (for Trumpeter/Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Brassin Eduard have reboxed the Trumpeter kit of this aircraft as a special edition "Bedna" boxing with Czech markings, allowing you to build either an ML or MF airframe. Eduard's new sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, and we reviewed the PE sets and masks here if you fancy a squint. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. The larger sets are safely ensconced in card boxes and use the same foam to protect the resin, Photo-Etch (PE), masks and decals where applicable. As usual with resin, take the precaution of wearing a mask when cutting or sanding resin, as the tiny particles are harmful to your health if breathed in. Washing the parts in warm water will also improve the adhesion of paint, as there may still be some moulding release agent on the parts when you receive them. Mig-23MF/ML Ejection Seat (648429) This is a drop-in replacement for the kit seat, comprising two resin parts, and nickel-plated, pre-painted parts for the crew belts, pull-handle and armrest. Mig-23MF/ML Engine Air Intakes (648434 & 648438) More drop-in resin parts that replace the intakes (not the splitter plate), adds PE blow-in doors, and a choice of two clear lenses on the top of the port intake, with a mask for each into the bargain. The difference between them? A small panel engraved into the rear of the ML. Mig-23ML 648438 Mig-23MF 648434 Mig-23ML Wheels (648431) With two resin main and two nose wheels, plus hub inserts for the outer sides, wafer-thin captive gear bay doors and a mudguard for the front leg, plus PE brake hoses, the protective cage that fits to the "knee" of the main gear legs, and masks (not shown) for the tyres to help you achieve a nice neat demarcation between rubber and hub. Mig-23ML Main Wheel Bays (648428) Replacing the kit bays with ultra-fine detailed resin parts, and adding extra internal parts for realism, resin inner and outer doors and jacks, plus an array of small PE parts for hoses, wiring etc. to create an impressive glimpse into the heart of the machine. Mig-23ML Exhaust Nozzle (648430) Yet another drop-in replacement for the kit exhaust, which is made up from seven resin parts for the ultimate in detail, and should look awesome when painted sympathetically, using the Gunze codes provided as reference. R-23R Apex Missiles for Mig-23 (648432) The pointy-nosed (technical description) R variant of this missiles is the Semi-Active Radar Homing (SARH) version, and you get two missiles in the box with separate steering vanes at the front, larger stabilisers at the rear, and a PE exhaust ring at the back, plus adapter rails. They can be posed with their FOD covers on by cutting off the front of the missiles and adding the supplied covers, plus a ring of PE protectors for the proximity sensors. Decals are provided for the stencils, and the colour call-outs are given in Gunze codes as normal. R-23T Apex Missiles for Mig-23 (648433) The blunt-nosed (another technical description) R variant of this missiles is the Infrared (IR) version, and you get two missiles in the box with separate steering vanes at the front, larger stabilisers at the rear, and a PE exhaust ring at the back, plus adapter rails. They can be posed with their FOD covers on by cutting off the front of the missiles and adding the supplied covers, plus a ring of PE protectors for the proximity sensors. Decals are provided for the stencils, and the colour call-outs are given in Gunze codes as normal. I know. Déjà vu all over again! Review sample courtesy of
  21. Mig-23ML/MF Update Sets (for Trumpeter/Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Eduard have reboxed the Trumpeter kit of this aircraft as a special edition "Bedna" boxing with Czech markings, allowing you to build either an ML or MF airframe. Eduard's new sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Upate Set Mig-23ML (48966) Supplied on a single large fret, this busy brass sheet contains a lot of small details that are spread over the entire airframe. In the cockpit there are new launch rails for the ejection seat, plus small panels on the bulkhead, cockpit sills, canopy internal parts and seat details. The nose gear bay receives new side skins; wiring detail and new bay door hinges, with additional detail added to the main bays too. On the fuselage, many small vents are added as raised parts; a pop-up intake and its tunnel are fitted to a hole you make in the exterior, and stiffeners are added here and there. The air-brakes have wiring added to their bays, and a new detailed skin added to the interior of the brakes themselves, while the intake splitter plates are removed and replaced by a new highly detailed micro-perforated part that should improve detail immensely with careful painting. Inside the intakes, the thick splitters are replaced by more in-scale parts, new auxiliary vents are added on top, and inside the side aux-intakes are backed with a louvered box. The fuel tanks are given PE filler caps, and other small parts are dotted around the airframe Upate Set Mig-23MF (48965) Supplied on a single large fret, identical to the one above in all but name (which is why there isn't another picture – just imagine the different number at the top), the difference are minimal and relate to one area, the tip of the tail fillet. Seatbelts STEEL Mig-23ML/MF (FE932) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the two sets of crew belts, you also get a set of the pull-handles between the pilot's knees that gets him out of there in case of an emergency. Masks Tface (EX615) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub masks for all the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. You also get another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  22. Mig-25PD Updates (for ICM) 1:48 Eduard ICM's new Foxbat range of Foxbat kits go together really well, but as always with injection moulding you can do some aspects better with Photo-Etch. Along comes Eduard with a small collection of PE sets and a set of kabuki tape masks to make your life easier, and the detail better. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Interior (49928) Consisting of two frets of PE, one of which is nickel-plated and pre-painted, the other bare brass, this set adds extra detail to the cockpit that would be difficult, if not impossible to add via scratch-building. After scraping the detail from the sidewall, consoles and instrument panel, new panels are installed with detail picked out in relief and colour, plus a set of new sidewall skins with panelling details added. The main panel is split into several parts, laminated together to create a more realistic whole, replete with instrument dials behind the bezels. The seat is upgraded with a seat cover, more accurate pull handle, leg straps, and a new detail insert for the top of the headbox, whilst behind it the rear bulkhead is given a skin of riveted metal instead of the raised detail that was provided in the kit. After replacing the rudder pedals with more detailed parts, the rest of the set is used to improve the detail on the canopy, including sill details, internal structure, canopy and windscreen hoops with rear-view mirrors, and the seals around the moving section. Zoom! Set (FE928) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE929) Eduard's new STEEL seatbelt range combines the simplicity of pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) belts with the thin, flexible steel that they now use, resulting in seatbelts that look more in-scale, and are easier to bend to drape more naturally over the ejection seat or crew seat as the case may be. The paint used also seems more flexible, and better able to cope with the rigors of fitting the belts into position without cracking and peeling off, which was sometimes a danger with the previous nickel-plated brass types. As well as coming pre-painted, they are also shaded to imply further depth to the buckles and overlaps, with the clasps, slides and attachment points showing bright in conjunction with the painted portions. Exterior (48968) This set is supplied on two larger brass frets, and contains plenty of parts to improve the detail further. The nose gear bay is skinned almost completely with a number of highly detailed parts, layered to give a better indication of depth, while the bay doors are given hinges and interior skins to complement. The main bays are skinned along the less detailed edges at the bottom of the bay, which is also the area most seen, with the bay doors also receiving some attention in the shape of panels, hinge-lines and brackets. The main legs are improved by the replacement of one of the arms by a detailed assembly that better represents the original, plus a set of hoses, and a hub detail part for the wheels. The intakes have new skin sections to better replicate the detail of the perforated area in the roof, and a skin for the dropped intake "scoops" at the bottom of the intake that sucks in more air at low speeds. Detail panels are added to the guide vanes that hold the intakes away from the fuselage, although little will be seen of these at the end of construction. Careful test-fitting will be needed here also, just in case it affects fit of the parts. At the front of the engine a fan enhancement is added, with the afterburner ring being more delicately depicted by fine PE parts, which are fitted with a centre section so that they are drop-in replacements for the kit parts. A side profile shows the correct shape for the rings after installation, which is conical. Between the exhausts, small parts are added to the wedge-shaped fairing, and the separator between the closely spaced exhausts. There are a virtual forest of aerials, raised panel, AoA probes and other parts around the nose, static wicks on the wings and tail, skins for the pylon contact points if you are posing them empty, and a few replacement bay doors to the nose gear. Masks (EX617) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX618) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Spitfire Mk.22/24 Upgrades (for Airfix) 1:48 Eduard This kit from Airfix may not be the newest on the block, but it's a golden oldie that is generally well-liked by modellers, so much so that it has been re-released by Airfix a number of times over the years. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Detail Set (49924) Two frets are included, one nickel plated and pre-painted, the other in bare brass. It begins with a re-scribing template for the Mk.22 radio hatch, which was in a different place to the 24, the lines for which will need filling to finish the job. A complete set of new layered instrument panels, placards and sidewall instruments are the primary parts on the painted set, with a new seat with supports; rudder pedals; gun bay internal structure; wing details; radiator skins; roll-over bar behind the pilot's head; access door; main gear and tail-wheel bay detail also supplied. Zoom! Set (FE924) This set contains a reduced subset of the interior, namely the pre-painted parts that are used to improve on the main aspects of the cockpit, as seen above. Whatever your motivations for wanting this set, it provides a welcome boost to detail, without being concerned with the structural elements. Seatbelts STEEL (FE925) In case you don't already know, these belts are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new printing method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. As well as the crew belts, you also get a bracket on the head armour that holds the tensioning of the shoulder belts, which will require you to remove the moulded-in part. landing flaps (48963) Eduard landing flaps use an ingenious technique to achieve excellent true-to-scale flaps using few parts, and requiring the modeller to simply remove the over-thick ribbing, plus scrape the upper wings to accommodate the thickness of the completed bays, and hollow out a hole in the upper wing for the flap indicator. Each half of the two flap sections (bay and flap itself) is constructed in the same manner, by twisting and folding over the attached ribs to create a 3D shape, plus some 0.6mm rod for the hinges from your own stock. The bays glue to the inside of the upper wing and the flap attaches to the rear wall of the new bay. Repeat this for the other side, and you're almost done. The indicator is placed in the hole opened earlier, and the cover is glued over it, with a scrap diagram showing its correct position. Masks (EX610) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels (including the tail-wheel), allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Review sample courtesy of
  24. As I have finally finished my Brits Abroad GB build I thought I would rather belatedly join the Pacific at War GB. I must have something in the stash I thought...well I do but only just. After trawling through a number of boxes I finally came across this kit. Most of the markings don’t qualify being either European or Japan based. But this one does fit the bill I think. This plane was on HMS Khedive about which more info can be found here, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Khedive_(D62) What confused me slightly was the reference to HMS Trincomalee. The only HMS Trincomalee I could find reference to was sold for scrap in 1897. See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Trincomalee for further details. Trincomalee is however a district of Ceylon and a major RAF base in WWII. Am I missing something or has Eduard made a mistake? Dave
  25. F4U Wheels (for Tamiya) 1:72 Eduard I've reviewed quite a few different resin wheels from Eduard, and they've never failed to impress me. The resin is always flawlessly and the details are crisp and sharp. This set provides a complete set of resin wheels for Tamiya's 1:72 Corsair. The main wheels have flat spots cast in place, while the tail wheel actually includes a complete replacement strut assembly (except for the tail hook). The latter includes photo etched details and paint masks are included for both main wheels and tail wheel. Conclusion It's curious that Eduard have waited until now to release upgraded wheels for a kit that is nearing its twenty-first birthday. Notwithstanding that, the wheels themselves are up to Eduard's usual high standard and they will make a noticeable difference to the kit. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
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