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Volkswagen T2 Bus Technik (00459) 1:24 Carrera Revell Easy-Click System Originally planned to be developed from the chassis of the Volkwagen Beetle (Type 1) in the post-war period, the Type 2 was intended to be a light commercial van, with a cab-forward design that put the driver over the front axle, leaving most of the body length for cargo, and the engine in the rear that gave it a high tailgate lip. Its design has been credited to a Dutch VW importer, who intended to build a van from the chassis of the Beetle that he initially wanted to import to his country. Finding the Type 1’s chassis a little weak, a ladder chassis was installed, keeping the wheelbase the same length, and cladding it in a boxy body that proved to be as aerodynamic as a house brick. This was rectified following some work with an outside agency in a wind tunnel, splitting the windscreen and improving streamlining to an acceptable level. Production started in May 1949, initially offering the Kombi with two side windows each side and two rows of removable seats, or the Commercial without windows in the load compartment. A microbus was introduced shortly after, with a deluxe variant added for those that preferred to travel in relative luxury. Almost 10,000 T2s were made during the first year of production, and this continued until 1967 when a new generation was introduced with a smoothly curved front windscreen and a lengthened chassis, plus a more powerful 1.6 litre engine replacing the original 1.3 litre lump found in the back of the first generation. It also adopted 12v for the electrical system, rendering any electrical accessories from the previous models redundant for use with the new model. The suspension was also changed with the new model, and as time went by improvements were made to various subsystems and the engine size was increased once again to 1.7L with a flat-four block that was air-cooled like most of Volkswagen’s output at the time, which gave them their distinctive chug. Other variants were made, including one with a raised roofline for the overseas market, and in 1979 the VW Combi as it was known in the UK was phased out in favour of the boxy “modern” T3 that has faded into the background when compared to the earlier models, thanks to being totally devoid of any discernible character. The Kit This is a luxurious reboxing with new parts and specialist electronics based upon a 2021 Easy-Click kit. The kit arrives in a stylish glossy black box, and inside the bodyshell, floorpan with electronics, and the base are surrounded by more gloss black cardboard inserts to keep them safe and give an air of quality. Underneath these the rest of the sprues in various colours can be found, all separately bagged with copious tape. There are eight sprues of styrene, one in black, one in red, two in light grey, two in muted silver, two in white, one that has been covered by a layer of chrome, plus two clear sprues, a bag of five flexible black tyres, the afore mentioned bodyshell in red, and the floor with electronics on black styrene, which has a carrier for the lights already in place that is also in black. A sheet of stickers and the instruction booklet complete the package, the latter printed in colour with sticker placement diagrams and operation of the electronics on the rear pages. The kit is of the kerbside variety, with just the underside of the engine depicted, but there is plenty of detail throughout, although the “serious” modeller may want to deal with the ejector-pin marks that can be found on the door cards, some of which are raised. The plinth has a raised socket in the centre, and a speaker grille to one side, plus a pair of buttons to the front that operates the LED lighting in the front and rear, plus the sound effect that depicts the engine starting up and idling for a few moments before shutting down again. The lighting is a toggle switch, so don’t forget to switch it off after demonstrating it to your friends and family. Construction begins with the front axle, using the steering arm to join the two brake housings, then inserting their pegs into the main axle part and clipping it into place under the floor pan. The rear axle is moulded as a single part, and that is trapped under a representation of the underside of the engine, plus a cross-brace, all inserted into the rear of the floor pan. The wheel hubs each have flexible black tyres pushed over the side without a lip, and a red socket is placed in the centre, push-fitting to each end of both axles, allowing the wheels to rotate freely. The red centres are then hidden by a chromed hub cap that clips into place front and rear. The seating was removable, supposedly by one person, and the two rows are built on the base bench cushion, one that has a full-width rear seat with backing panel, the other a 60/40 split, which have separate cushions and backing panels. The largest back cushion also has a grab handle to the rear, and an additional tubular leg frame, totalling four. They are installed on pegs in the passenger compartment, the split seat to the front of the area, and separated from the crew compartment by a white bulkhead. The driver’s seat is a single two-part arrangement, with a double-width passenger seat in the same style, both mounting on square pegs on the highest area of the cab. The driver is on the left side, adding clutch, brake and accelerator pedals plus a gear lever to the floor, then dropping the completed assembly into the floor pan, avoiding trapping the wires for the headlights as you do so. The dash is a single part with a choice of speedometer stickers, plus stickers for the other dials, radio and a couple of stencils, one of which is applied to the long steering column with moulded in stalks, applying another to the steering wheel once it is fixed to the top. The bodyshell is moulded in red for those that don’t want to get involved in painting, as are the other parts that will benefit the younger or inexperienced modeller, and the first step is to apply a pair of door latch stickers to the inside, and adding a rear-view mirror to the centre of the roof by the windscreen. The completed dash assembly is then fixed in the nose, after which you can mate the bodyshell with the floor pan, being careful of the LED lights and their wires, which are supplied attached to a black carrier, which you need to remove to slide them through the cut-outs. Once through, they are pushed back into position, and the carrier is clipped into the recess running across the front, clipping the clear lenses over the LEDs. The cab doors are separate parts, and receive their windows that clip into position, painting the seals if you’re minded, then they are fitted into their cut-outs, but won’t be secured until the front panel is in position, so it may be as well to tape them into place for a short while. The indicator lights are on their own clear carrier, and this is inserted from the rear, painting the lenses with clear amber/orange for added realism, after which the front panel can be clipped into place, trapping the door hinges in position. The sliding side door has a sticker and window installed, then it is slotted into position in its cut-out being careful how you locate the guiding tabs at top and bottom so that it remains mobile, but is fixed to the structure. The wheel wells all have mudguards with white VW logo stickers fitted behind each wheel, then the side windows are clipped into their holes, painting the seals if you feel like it. The rear light clusters consist of chromed reflectors with clear lenses that have light-guides moulded-in that pushed through to keep it in position near the LED, painting the relevant sections of the lenses red and orange. There are two surface-mounted LEDs on the edge of the little PCB that manages the lights, and these are located behind the light clusters, and it would be advisable to check for light bleeding through from the inside around the lights, which could be stopped by silver foil glued inside, or by painting the area inside with a couple of layers of black paint. The cargo door has a window clipped in, and is mounted in its cut-out, the hinges dropping into recesses in the roof, although they won’t be secure until the roof is finished, so be careful when you tip it upside down, or tape it in place. Under the boot is the engine compartment hatch, with a choice of a one or two-row number plate, depending on which nation’s plates you will be using. Up front, another pair of stickers represents the prominent grilles under the windscreen and between the indicators, adding a pair of windscreen wipers to the bottom of the frame, the front bumper, and a choice of number plate frames as at the rear. The rear bumper slots into position, with a two-part towing hitch under it in the centre. The remaining chromed parts are the two wing mirrors on the doors and the VW logo at the centre of the front, which can be replaced by a spare tyre with a choice of hub styles for US or EU made vehicles. The finishing touch involves placing the roof over the length of the vehicle, which has the shape of the cab’s headliner moulded-in. The base is already assembled from the box, and has a battery compartment underneath that can be accessed with a Philips cross-head screwdriver, where you will need to install two AA batteries, screwing the compartment door back into position so the batteries don’t fall out. The finished model is slotted into the blocky receiver, where it mates with a two-pin male socket once rammed fully home. I had a little problem with getting mine into position correctly, and you’ll be able to tell if you have made the same mistake because the lights won’t work. A good firm push solved it, so bear that in mind. The left button toggles the lights, while the right button operates the sound effect, which is all handled in the base, so doesn’t even require the model to be in situ. The start-up/shut-down sound effects lasts around 16 seconds, and requires no action from you to complete, so won’t continue to drain the batteries if you forget about it, unlike the lights. Markings This edition has just one set of markings for the model, all of which are provided as stickers that are nicely printed. You have a choice of several styles of number plate from various nations, which will dictate the number plate holder you use when building the model. You don’t have to paint the model at all if you don’t want to, as most of the parts have been moulded in their main colour. You can paint some or all of it to enhance the details and realism if you want to, but it’s your model to do with as you like, just so long as you enjoy yourself. Conclusion A nice display model with some technical touches to add some extra interest to the completed model. It might not appeal so much to the purists that demand ultimate detail, but they’re not really the target market. Don’t forget to ensure you have a pair of AA batteries in stock before you start! Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or

Hi all, Started a long time ago, I have finished my VW T1 panel last week. The kit is Hasegawa in 1/24 scale, the BRM wheels and the roof rack are from Scale Production, safari windows are from Highlight Model Studio, big decals on the panels are from Motobitz. Decals on the driver door are from several decals sheets, door windows are scratch from rhodoïd. Cyclop light (the roof light) is made with a tank of a 1/72 SH-60. Wooden slats of the roof rack are made with coffee stirrers and weathered. All the build is on my club's website: VW T1 1/24 WIP (in french...) Thank you for watching. Lolo