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  1. This is my latest completion, the Airfix 1/72 kit of the Messerschmitt BF 110E Trop, built using the kit scheme for a machine from 7/Zerstörergeschwader 26, Derna, Libya, 1942. It’s also the first of my many builds in the WW2 Twins GB I’m running to make it over the line. Pretty much OOB, I added the crew as the cockpit detail was a bit on the sparce side, and the nose guns were replaced with brass tube. Paint is Mr Hobby acrylics, and weathering is a combination of oil paints and pigments. The WIP is here. James
  2. Hi all, I recently noticed that the paintwork on my Airfix Sea Vixen from a few years ago was starting to craze and fade somewhat. As I have fond memories of building the kit and it’s not exactly easy to get hold of a replacement I decided to give it a refresh. MRP provided the paints, the EDSG being a much better match, and the decals came from a variety of sources. The stencils mainly came from print scale, probably the most traumatic three day decalling odyssey I ever hope to endure! Thin and extremely “grippy”! I used VMS satin varnish for the final finish which I have to say is absolutely lovely stuff - very very smooth! In the process of gluing the last few bits back on I managed to crack the windscreen, fortunately I too cracked and bought another kit along with the FAW.1 conversion from Alleycat which includes a new windscreen. The spare kit one will eventually find its way onto this model. Hope you like the model ! I think she needs a Phantom and a Buccaneer for company…. First the original: And now the 2024 refresh:
  3. Hi, Folks, latest one from me. By a coincidence I received this recently for my birthday and it come up on my Sultan thread as SMM models were suggested for 12m masts by @ivan-o, which happen to be made for the Ferret, so I also ended up getting their Ferret upgrade kit as well. I meant to re-do this for a while as I confess I rushed the first one I did. The upgrade kit includes new hatches, replacement extinguishers and shovel, PE exhaust covers, reflectors and a new exhaust fish tail. I really like that I can choose to have the drivers small hatch open. I would definitely get another one if I decided to re-do it again. I also widened the grills on the kit part and replaced the rubies with clear resin. SMM do load of extras and you could easily fork out twice the kit price in upgrades. Paints are a mixture of Tamiya, Humbrol and Mig as were the weathering pigments. Gloss coat was Quick Shine, Vallejo matt varnish. The jerry cans are from the spares box. Water was left over from the Academy Warrior and the fuel was from the Hobby Boss Jackal. The straps were tape and the buckels come with the upgrade kit. Pleased with how the exhaust come out. It was the first time I used rust pigments. Bill
  4. I had a lot of trouble at home one weekend and out of frustration I curled up at home and retreated to my model building corner. It's quiet at home, which I can't stand at all, so I turn on the TV and listen to MTV: 80's hits To get back down, I opened the cupboard and looked to see which model should be in... then I found my already prepared project Spitfire Type 389 and Type 390... now I won't let you die ignorant. This is about the P.R.XIX, of which there were/are two versions. Since I have two kits of it, it was clear that both versions should be built. First of all, I decided on the lesser-known version, Type 389. How is this different? Sure - in the engine or compressor system. Unfortunately, some people on the Internet don't know for sure what type is, so you have to take a closer look! This is it, the Supermarine Type 389 / Spitfire Mk XIX (Early), two cameras in the fuselage directed on gull wing area downwards, one camera on the left side behind the cockpit, fishtail exhaust pipes (unfortunately I don't have it yet: QB 48191) Literature on this type can only be found in the following editions: KAGERO SPitfire #40 The model from Airfix was easy to build, little rework, the parts fit very well. A good recommendation for all Spitfire fans.
  5. While the weather continues to be unfavourable for gardening or hiking, and with no play to rehearse for, it seems there’s ample opportunity to start another kit. I’d considered a couple of others including the Kinetic Harrier T-bird and a crud n’ custard Zvezda Herc, but with two of these Javelins in the stash I fancied getting one on the shelves. The now familiar box. The moulding and finely engraved panel lines look excellent. Big colourful decal sheet. But will there be aftermarket alternatives? Of course there will! And reference material. The Jav is one of my favourites so got a few books to use. I’ll be doing it in the Xtradecal markings for 25 squadron, this aircraft, XH909/R based at RAF Waterbeach, Cambridgeshire in 1960-61.
  6. Gonna add an Indian Spitfire to the Indian Tempest. Would have preferred to do the camouflaged "96" with the Chakra roundels. There are Iliad Design and Model Alliance decals for this scheme, but the Chakras are on white ground. Actual info is that the chakras on camouflaged aircraft were on yellow ground. So gonna do the silver Indina scheme with the normal cockades included in the kit. DSC_0008 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr DSC_0009 by grimreaper110, auf Flickr
  7. de Havilland Tiger Moth (A04104A) 1:48 Airfix The de Havilland Tiger Moth was one of the most important and widely produced trainer aircraft to have seen service with the RAF. It was designed by Geoffrey de Havilland himself in the 1930s and was based on the Gypsy Moth, suitably redesigned to meet Air Ministry Specification 13/31. In comparison to its predecessor, the Tiger Moth's wings were swept and repositioned, and the cockpits were redesigned to make escape easier. The airframe was also strengthened and the engine exhaust system was redesigned. The Tiger Moth entered service with the RAF in 1932 and remained in use until well after the war. Over 8,000 examples were completed, and the type also served with the Royal Australian Air Force, the Royal Canadian Air Force and the Royal New Zealand Air Force as well as a great many other military and civilian operators. In service it proved itself to be ideally suited to its role, being easy enough to fly, but challenging enough to weed out the weaker students. It was also cheap and easy to maintain. Further variants would be the DH.82C fitted with an enclosed hood for cold weather operations in Canada, and the Queen Bee, which was an unmanned radio-controlled target drone that resulted in a thinning of the herd of surviving airframes. Always popular with civilian users, many Tiger Moths found their way into private ownership after the War, with many maintained in flying condition to this day. The Kit This is a reboxing with new decals of the 2019 tooling that made many quarter-scale modellers very happy. We didn’t get chance to review the original release, so it’s good to finally see one in the photo booth. The kit arrives in a suitably sized red-themed top-opening box with some dramatic artwork on the top, depicting the last landing of a biplane on a British Carrier in 1964, which involved HMS Eagle and an airframe from Britannia Royal Naval College in Plymouth wearing a silver dope and dayglo striped scheme, as shown here. Inside the box are three sprues of dark grey styrene, a small clear sprue, decal sheet and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on matt paper, with painting and decaling profiles on the rear pages, plus a comprehensive rigging guide that extends to two pages of the booklet. Detail is as we’ve come to expect from Airfix, including restrained scalloping of the fabric surfaces, detailed cockpit and even an engine details inside the nose with the option to open one side of the cowling, and the afore mentioned rigging diagram should go a long way to calm any modellers that are rigging-phobic. Construction begins with the cockpit floor, fitting the rear seat and bulkhead, then making up the front seat and its bulkhead, which is a strange shape due to the seat being half-buried in the bulkhead, giving both crew a control column before it is inserted into the port fuselage after doing some detail painting, ensuring that a tab on the front of the floor fully latches in a slot moulded into the firewall in the fuselage halves. A set of rods are inserted into the half engine moulded into the port fuselage, with a scrap diagram showing it from the front, then the two instrument panels with their dial decals are painted and installed in front of each crew member, again after detail painting. The starboard fuselage side has a pair of crew doors moulded into it, but with the perimeters thinned to ease cutting them out if you wish to open them, although you don’t need to retain the cut-out doors, as extra parts are included on the sprues. Engine detail is glued to the flat side of the engine moulded into the fuselage half, and if you plan to use an Airfix stand, there are two flashed-over holes under the cockpit that you can cut out, painting the sidewall detail before you close the fuselage halves and deal with the seams. A curved fairing is fitted to a depression in the port side of the fuselage behind the engine, and on the starboard side the exhaust is attached to the engine, then after drilling a 0.4mm hole in the firewall, the A-frame engine mount is fitted over the engine details after painting and weathering them according to your taste. A top cowling panel is mounted over the top of the motor, fixing the front cowling with intake port and prop fairing, fitting the lower and port engine cowlings in the closed position, then deciding whether to open the starboard cowling to expose the engine detail, or closing it using the same part, a scrap diagram showing its opening angle. A jig is found on sprue C, and is mounted over the tail without glue, which allows you to remove a shallow section of the fuselage top to accommodate the strakes added to the elevators of decal option A. The instructions show it from two angles to assist you, and a file icon suggests what to use to remove this area. After you are happy with the job you’ve done removing the plastic, the elevators with strakes are glued in place for option A, and a different part without strakes is used for option B. Both tail styles are supported by diagonal struts that pin at both ends, plugging the rudder into the rear of the fuselage and adding a tail skid with the aid of a scrap diagram nearby that shows the assembly from another angle. The lower wings are moulded as a single part that is linked by a narrow section that slots into a groove in the fuselage underside. Once the glue is cured, cabane struts are mounted vertically on the curved fuselage sides, preparing the upper wing by adding a ribbed fuel tank on the centre section, then flipping it over to slot the interplane struts into grooves moulded into the wing surfaces. You might wish to align the upper wing with the model while the glue cures, and once everything is set, the two wings can be glued together, ignoring the rigging aspect of this model for the time-being. A scrap diagram shows how the cabane struts fit into grooves in the underside of the upper wing, either side of the fuel tank. The instructions suggest you apply the underwing codes before fitting the aileron actuators that are mounted under the wings, although the decals stop short of interfering with these parts on the diagram, then a handle-shaped part is fixed on the fuselage underside between the wings. The landing gear is created from a bridged W-shaped main strut, which is braced by a pair of diagonal forward struts, one on each side, adding another smaller pair behind the legs while slotting the single-part wheels onto the axles. Turning the model over onto its wheels for the first time, a vent is added to the fuel tank, and a choice of two prop styles are pinned to the front of the model by a separate part, which can be left mobile if you are careful with the glue. Returning to the cockpit, padded coamings are fitted to the front of the cockpit openings, adding faceted windscreens to slots in the top of the fuselage, then if you have cut out the crew doors, two new door parts are installed in the open position, leaving ‘just’ the rigging left to do. Most biplane modellers have their own preferred method for rigging their models, and here Airfix have provided two pages of diagrams to assist with the process, which would be most useful for anyone not familiar with the task. The Tiger Moth isn’t overly complex in its rigging either, so if anyone was thinking of joining the biplane community, this could be a good kit to start your journey with. Markings There are two decal options included on the sheet, with suitably different markings and schemes to broaden its appeal. From the box you can build one of the following: BB852/E, Britannia Flight, Britannia Royal Naval College, Roborough, Plymouth, Devon, 1st July 1965, the last biplane to land on a British carrier (HMS Eagle) No.9 Elementary and Reserve Flying Training School, RAF Ansty, Warwickshire, England, October 1940 Please note that the Dayglo Orange decals above appeared light pink after scanning, so the colour has been approximated by eye and reference to a photo taken on an iPhone in PhotoShop Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film on the dayglo orange decals, and gloss carrier film everywhere else, cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A welcome re-release for those that didn’t manage to pick the kit up first time around, or just wanted another kit, while the new decals add extra interest, especially the last biplane to land on a British carrier, which will be a bright model thanks to the dayglo stripes, which aren’t pink on the sheet, I promise. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Another work in progress but its likely to get shelved.Its just been a drain the two jags im doing are much more fun and isnt that what its all about? That said i"ve done some extra work to populate the nose bay and im 99% sure I have the correct aerial fit for what was a basic and new Sea king on 772 NAS at Portland in 1990 & 1991 ....a fabulous draft for a young person. Some of you will notice the main blades are incorrect and painted as metal blades and not composite.The head is frankly dismal so im waiting to find an older airfix or fujimi kit and then I can assemble correctly and perhaps add some busyness to the sometimes troublesome hydrulics and electics which gave rise to the automatic blade fold system. Need to make a SACRU ....not seen one built SK with a SACRU fitted to a kit yet.Having the SACRU or cargo hook was part of the mk4s primary role....looks odd without it. Finally the windscreen is a mess and awash with swarf so I guess im going to have to carryout surgery. Anyway take look criticism is welcome .
  9. Tower, this is Theplasticsurgeon, requesting a flyby. . . Rejoining the circuit with this Mustang kit, bought in 2020 for £8.99. To build like this, modified as a two-seater. Instructions, strangely blang, not saying anything about the Mustang's history or performance. Parts. Familiar - as this is my 5th build of this P-51D kit. And scheme, with superb decals.
  10. Well, here's my choice .... the Airfix 1/35 Tiger 1 early .... nothing complicated and something I have half a chance of finishing! Ill fitting parts, inaccurate and vynil tracks .... what could possibly go wrong? 😟 Keith 😁
  11. North American B-25C/D Mitchell (A06015A) 1:72 Airfix The Mitchell was a twin-engined medium bomber that served with distinction during WWII, with over 10,000 being produced by war's end. Named after General Billy Mitchell, the type reached prominence early on in America's entry to the war, as it was used in the famous carrier launched Doolittle raid on mainland Japan, leaving USS Hornet to bomb Japan, and attempting to land on fields in East China after the mission. It was a good aircraft to fly, and was well-liked by its crews, as well as being able to soak up a tremendous amount of punishment from the enemy and still remain flyable thanks to its rugged construction. These traits led to the Mitchell being used in almost every theatre of war, and in addition to bombing duties it was also converted to a "gun-truck" for ground attack, and was fitted with various armaments, including cheek mounted machine guns in fairings, and sometimes the 75mm cannon from a Sherman tank in a solid nose cone, as well as four .50cal brownings in the nose (B-25G) that was named ‘Strafer’, plus the turret guns that could be aimed forwards to add to the hail of munitions. The J-model was the last production variant in a long line of upgrades and improvements, and although many were built with glass noses, they were often converted in the field to a solid nose for ground attack duties. The Kit This kit was first released in 2018, and this boxing adds new decals to the existing tooling and new box art to match, depicting a gaggle of Mitchells flying low over desert terrain. Inside the box are five sprues of different sizes in dark grey styrene, two clear sprues, decals, and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour with decal option profiles on the rear pages, accompanied by a separate page of profiles for the common stencils applied to the aircraft. Detail is good, and this 1:48 modeller was quite surprised by the small size of the Mitchell at this scale, probably because I’ve been handling a 1:48 B-25 kit recently for another review. It includes a detailed cockpit, bomb bay, turrets, and gun position details, with options for dropped or retracted flaps plus poseable tail surfaces, and raised or lowered wheels to add some personalisation to your model. Construction begins with the cockpit, based on a stepped floor, to which the twin control columns with integral centre console is added, with the instrument panel in front, applying a decal to depict the dials. A bulkhead is fixed to the front of the floor, and two crew seats are slotted into sockets in the floor behind the controls. Another bulkhead is slotted in from the side behind the crew, and an additional lower floor part it fixed to the bottom of the assembly after drilling out two flashed-over holes in one side. At the rear of the assembly, a further bulkhead with moulded-in spar is mounted, then the nose compartment is detailed with a small seat and a bicycle-like seat in the very front of the floor. The bomb bay is just behind the cockpit, and the fuselage halves are thinned here to accept the bay wall inserts, which also have the bay doors moulded-in to give it a strong join, and is detailed with the bomb ladders down the sides of the walls. A note in this step tells you to skip ahead if you plan to leave the bay doors closed, which I missed initially, so make sure you don’t. The cockpit assembly is installed on the port fuselage after detail painting, sliding it into position by feeding the spar through a hole in the side of the fuselage. Another spar is prepared with an extra layer to the bulkhead, located on circular pads, then it too is slipped into the port fuselage, adding 25 grammes of nose weight under the cockpit, making use of the box-like structure there. The bomb bay roof is fitted between the two bulkheads, and an insert is added to the belly behind the bomb bay with the socket for the belly turret and its pivot point moulded-in. The bombs are provided in this boxing, making four of them from three parts each, and gluing two on each side of the bay, adding retraction jacks and their mounts to the front of the bay opening. With both sides of the bay built and painted, the fuselage halves can be closed, and the seams dealt with in your preferred manner. If you elected to leave the bay doors closed, a separate part is included with a panel line down the centre to represent the two doors closed against each other. The wings are built on the spars projecting from the sides of the fuselage, adding the upper surface first, and installing the clear landing light lenses in the leading edge, drilling out some flashed-over holes, which are used to locate the aerodynamic fairings over the exhaust ports on the trailing edges of the wings. The lower surface is then glued in place, two clear inserts are fitted into holes in the fuselage sides behind the wings, which cater for various window arrangements through the different variants, and should be test-fitted carefully so that they are level with the rest of the skin of the model. The elevators are built from top and bottom halves with separate flying surfaces trapped during gluing, which can be deflected according to details given as the assembly is glued onto the rear of the fuselage ready for the rudder panels to be built. Again, the panels are made from two halves with separate rudders, one per side, and these too can be deflected according to the numbers given on the diagrams, plus another diagram that confirms that the rudder panels should be posed at 90° to the elevators. The next choice is whether to pose the gear up or down, with gear down the first choice to be described, starting with positioning the main gear legs, using the outer nacelle half as a jig to locate the strut, but not applying any glue to the nacelle part at this time. It can be left in situ while the glue on the gear leg cures, and in the meantime the engines and their cowlings can be made, which are common to gear up or down options. The front row of pistons has a central axle trapped between it and the reduction bell-housing at the front, then it is glued to the combined bulkhead/rear bank of pistons, providing detail that will be dimly seen through the spaces between the front bank of pistons, and via the cooling gills at the rear if you have sharp eyes. The cowling is prepared by adding seven small raised fairings around the main part, sliding the completed motor into the back of the assembly before fitting the cowling gills using the tabs and slots that are shown in the diagrams. The nacelle halves are joined together, assuming the glue has cured on the main gear legs, and these two parts are augmented by a short forward section on the outer half, then mounting a bulkhead and intake to the front, repeating this for the other side in mirror image. The completed nacelles are then lowered over the main gear legs and glued onto the underside of the wings. For the gear-up option, the legs are omitted, and the small curved bay door covers the opening before gluing the nacelles to the wings, removing the two hinges from one end first, which is done again in mirror image for the opposite engine. The engine cowlings are then glued to the front of the nacelles, regardless of the gear option chosen, then the two flap sections per wing can be glued in place lowered, or retracted by using different parts, doing the same on the opposite wing. Both wheel position options have the curved bump-stop at the very rear of the tail, then for the gear down option, separate scissor-links are glued to the legs, adding the doors and a retraction jack near the front of the bay. The wheels are each in two halves, and have a diamond tread pattern moulded into them, so take care aligning the halves once you have applied glue to minimise clean-up. The attachment points on the struts are specially designed to prevent mistakes, so check that the inner peg is aligned with the hole in the bottom of the tyre cut-out before you leave the glue to set. The Mitchell was unusual for a WWII bomber because of its tricycle undercarriage, and for gear-up the bay is covered by a small door that has been reduced in width prior to fitting. The gear down option has the strut inserted into the slot, a translucent scrap diagram showing how it should locate, then the uncut door is fitted to the edge of the bay, adding the wheel with separate outer hub to the bottom of the leg. The belly turret could be retracted so that it was almost flush with the airflow to increase speed and reduce fuel consumption whilst on the way to and from enemy territory and for landing. You have the option to pose it in either position, gluing the two machine guns into a different centre mount, depending on your choice. Both options are then inserted into the clear upper section of the turret, installing both in the cut-out under the belly, the mount holding each option at the correct attitude. The deployed turret clips into position without glue thanks to an expanding spring clip on the mount, but it is a one-time use clip, so make sure you’re ready to install it, and don’t be tempted to put it in early to see how it looks. The retracted turret has its guns aligned with two long recesses, so can be glued into position as there is only one possible position for them. Behind the turret is a crew hatch, which has four tabs around the lip that can support the door if you intend to leave it closed. To open it, the tabs should be cut away, fitting the combined door and ladder to the front of the cut-out, with the same process carried out on the door to the front of the bomb bay. The upper turret is next, fitting the twin machine guns to the central mechanism, and trapping them in position with another part of the assembly. The two ammo cannisters with a twin feed of link is glued to the front of the assembly, then the completed assembly is inserted carefully into the glazing, a scrap diagram showing how it will look from below. The completed top turret is then fitted into its cut-out, locating in a socket in the floor inside. The nose is open at this stage, allowing you to install a rack of ammo cans, plus the gun that is offset to one side of the bomb sight, which is another part fitted to the front lip of the floor. Under the nose is a small window that is inserted from below, then the top glazing is added, followed by the nose glazing, which has a flexible mounted machine gun pushed through the central hole, slotting the fixed gun through the other offset hole in the clear part as you install it. There are two styles of canopy included on the sprues, one for each of the decal options, and at this stage you can choose to seat the two pilot figures that are supplied or not. An astrodome is added to a hole in the fuselage behind the cockpit, fitting two landing light covers in the leading edges of the wings, installing some windows in the sides, and the glass dome in the tail. The final few parts dotted around the airframe include pitot probe in the port wingtip, two antenna masts on the spine, plus a D/F loop in an aerodynamic fairing, and the twin three-bladed props, one in each engine nacelle. Markings There are two decal options on the sheet, one in US service in a desert scheme, the other a lend/lease aircraft in Soviet service, each with a full page of profiles to help you complete the task. An additional page of profiles shows where the stencils are applied to both decal options, using line drawings to simplify the process. From the box you can build one of the following: B-25C Mitchell ‘OH-7’, 41-13207, 445th BS, French Morocco, 1943 B-25D Mitchel ‘09’ 42-87594, 1st Sqn., Uman Airfield, 1944 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A nicely detailed B-25 in this scale with plenty of personalisation options that belies the scale, with a couple of interesting and more unusual decal options, which combines to make for a welcome re-release. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  12. Fairey Rotodyne (A04002V) 1:72 Airfix Vintage Classics The Fairey Rotodyne was an ambitious project in the post WWII heyday of British aviation, when the aviation world could re-concentrate their efforts on more radical designs, which included the development of rotary-winged flight types that had been of interest during the 30s, but was put on the back-burner during WWII to concentrate on more pressing matters. Fairey were interested in creating a combined rotorcraft that merged autogyro with helicopter, using both type’s strengths to provide a cheaper, faster method of transport that could take-off and land vertically without the high expense associated with helicopter flight then and now. Fairey envisaged blade-tip engines powering the rotors, thereby obviating the need for a stabilising tail rotor, while the rotor would transition to autogyro mode once horizontal flight was achieved, powering down the engines and utilising the passive lift generated from the blades along with the short wings carrying a pair of turbo-prop engines that would supply forward momentum, but could also be used to counter any torque encountered during flight. The engines also supplied high-pressure air to the blade-tip engines, mixing it with fuel and burning it to provide energy to the blades to rotate. Fairey already had experience with this type of flight with their Gyrodyne, which had been demonstrated to be effective, although its size and fuel capacity limited its range substantially. It acted as a development precursor that gave Fairey confidence in its design, although the form factor and layout changed from several times during development before they settled for the twin-engined design. Which brand and type of engine became a problem however, as Fairey had their preferences, and many leading engine manufacturers considered themselves already over-stretched with various projects. Politics reared its ugly and divisive head, as the British Government had been bankrolling the project on the basis that it could be useful for military applications, and in the hope that airline BEA would make an order for at least 20 airframes to act as financial backstop for the project, which they blew hot and cold on as time went by. During the greater periods of interest, there were plans to build an enlarged variant of the Rotodyne that could carry up to 70 passengers, which would have resulted in an even more cost-effective return than the already reduced cost of the original design. The choice and power output of the engines was an ongoing issue that helped to kill the project, along with concerns over the noise caused by the rapidly spinning blade-tip engines, which were said to be painful and potentially damaging to hearing close-up, and still a nuisance even at greater distances, making conversations within range a difficult prospect. There were attempts to reduce this to a more acceptable level, and progress was beginning to be made as funding was withdrawn in the early 60s, leading to the project’s cancellation when Fairey’s new owners, Westland were likely to have to foot the bill for the completion of development. There was a good chance that the noise could have been brought down to similar or lower levels than other vehicles that were in use at the time, but it was never to happen, as the curtain was brought down on a promising project. The Kit This is a reboxing of Airfix’s vintage tooling, which was first released in 1959 while the Rotodyne was still in development, so as you’d imagine it’s a product of its time, and expectations should be measured accordingly. It is however eminently possible to create a realistic and well-detailed model from the kit, as our membership have proved in the past if you’d care to search the forum’s sub-sections. The kit arrives in a modestly sized top-opening box, and inside are eight borderless sprues in a dark grey styrene, a clear sprue, a sheet of decals, and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on matt paper, with profiles for painting and decaling on the rear inner cover. As already mentioned, this is an old kit and should be viewed through rose-tinted glasses, as it’s even older than most of us on the forum. Considering its age, time has been kind to the moulds, with surprisingly little flash, and virtually no mould damage other than some scratches evident on the upper rotor-head and one of the tail parts at first glance. It was tooled during Airfix’s heavy riveting period, covering the skin of the kit in thousands of fine raised rivets that can be obliterated during seam filling. Construction begins with the cockpit, which is a simple floor with a moulded-in centre console with decal, and two turrets that the seats plug into, with a crew member for each seat, although they have their hands by their sides so won’t be doing much controlling of their charge unless you plan on undertaking some surgery. The cockpit is enhanced with a pair of thick control columns, and in front of the crew is an instrument panel for which a new decal has been provided, with realistic-looking dials on a grey background that look rather nice. The bulkhead behind the crew has a door moulded-in, and the nose gear leg with twin wheels is fixed to the bottom of this, putting the assembly aside while you prepare the two fuselage halves with ten oval portholes on each side, even though there is no interior present in the passenger cabin. This was the norm back in the day though, so you can either paint the interior a black shade, or build yourself a simple floor and add some seats. To close the fuselage, you will need to create the rotor-head, which consists of top and bottom halves, with a dome added to the top, and a shaft/pin inserted into the hole underneath. This and the cockpit are trapped between the two fuselage halves, taking care not to allow the glue to seep into the socket for the rotor if you wish it to remain mobile later. Seam-filling will doubtless remove some of the raised rivets on the surface, so you may wish to toy with the idea of either removing them all, converting the model to recessed rivets, or picking up some suitably pitched printed 3D rivet decals to replace those lost in the seam-filling process. The same will be true for the other external surfaces, so take it as read that this will occur for those parts of the model. The Rotodyne’s wings are simple top and bottom halves, painting a small portion of the underside interior silver because it will show through a hole in the upper wing. These are put to one side while the tail is made, creating the horizontal section from two parts plus a single flying surface that can be left mobile by not gluing them in, then adding the upper portion of the fin in two halves, and the lower portion that has a separate rudder panel, building one for each side of the model, and plugging them into the sides of the fuselage along with the wings and the surprisingly clear canopy part at the front. The two engine nacelles are split vertically in half, and are equipped with a nose with intake, through which the prop’s axle slots, securing the four-bladed propeller in position. Intakes and exhausts are added to the sides, and the main gear legs are trapped between the two nacelle halves during closure, fixing a pair of wheels to the ends of the axles. Once complete, they are pinned to the underside of the wings, and the main gear bays are given three doors each, plus another three for the nose gear leg that is now projecting from the bay under the nose. One useful feature of the Rotodyne was the clamshell rear doors that made loading cargo an easy task. These are supplied as two curved sections with four-part hinges that let them open and close if you are careful with the glue. They are locked into position by a pair of C-shaped clamps that glue to the interior of the fuselage in the tail. The penultimate task is to build the rotors themselves, adding half of the tip motors to the ends, and plugging each blade root into the rotor-head, ensuring they are installed at the same angle of attack for accuracy’s sake. The forward access door in the port side of the nose is depicted in the open position, hinging up and down in two halves, with a stairway glued to the lower portion for easy access. Markings There was only one flying Rotodyne, and it wore a fetching white, blue and silver scheme, with Fairey Rotodyne written in large text over the lower silver areas on the sides. From the box you can build the following: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion There is only one kit in this scale, and this is it. It’s an old kit, but it gets the basic shape, and despite some of the details being a little toy-like, a creditable replica can be made with a little effort. The inclusion of new decals will certainly help with that, as they are very crisply designed and printed, especially the instrument panels. Highly recommended for a vintage kit. Review sample courtesy of
  13. I'd like to enter with this please; Bought a few years ago, along with the Airfix Curtiss Tomahawk, each costing me the princely sum of £2.49! The Mustang is my all time favourite aircraft, and many moons ago I built the Matchbox and Academy 1/72 P-51Ds, so it will be interesting to see what this much newer kit is like. It certainly looks nice upon initial inspection; Mine actually came with two sets of decals; This RAF scheme is nice, but its not how this one will be finished. Back in 1995, when I built the previous two Mustang kits, I had just started to get interested in the Eighth Air Force, and, whilst on holiday in Suffolk, had recently visited my first old airfield, which happened to be Leiston. Ever since then, Leiston has been a bit of a special place for me. Ended up visiting Hannants, and buying some Repli-Scale "Yoxford Boys" decals. The Matchbox kit was finished as "Old Crow", and the Academy as "Glamorous Glen III", which leaves me with these options: I'm thinking of going for "Missouri Armada". The decal instructions show this as an early model D, but I consulted this; There is a photo of Missouri Armada showing it with the fin fillet. The serial number given on the decal sheet (414709) is not amongst those listed at the rear of the book, however 414789 is, which is only 1 digit different. Using other numbers on the sheet, I can cobble together the right number for the model. Time to saddle up and get started!
  14. Airfix 1:72 Mosquito in the kit scheme of No. 571 Squadron from the Pathfinders. Airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air, weathered with Abteilung 502 oil paints and varnished with Tamiya matt and gloss varnish from a rattle can. Overall the kit went together well. I used a masking set from ASK for the transparencies and CMK resin flaps and elevators. I did a fair bit of scratch building of parts in the interior (such as new radio set replacing the unit supplied with the kit; new bombsight, seat belts with tape and wiring and various gubbins. I also corrected the bomb bay doors, redrilled the red, green and amber lamps and added brake lines to the wheel hubs. I also modified the tailwheel to the anti-shimmy version and added ice guards to the Merlin second stage intakes (though they are a bit out of scale). i also drilled out the wingtip lights to add the green and red bulbs. What went well? Canopy transparencies and masking, learning how to fit aftermarket resin control surfaces (though in retrospect I didnt thin the trailing edges enough); redoing the bulged bomb bay. What could be improved? Interior painting was too thick, my scratch built radio set was not accurate for the airframe in the end (despite spending weeks pontificating on reference drawings in Richard Franks Modellers Datafile); the paintjob could be improved e.g. brush painting the u/c legs was a disaster; i was too heavy handed using the spray can and had to redo the camo template several times resulting in a poor paint finish with dust and hair all over the place. also over did it on the weathering underneath. anyhow thanks for looking Neil
  15. For this GB I'm going to build a "Sexy American Singles in South American Service" subject, a Bolivian P-51D. Sexy American Singles in South American Service involves building American WWII single-engine aircraft to represent eight South American nations. So far, I've built representatives from Chile (A-24B); Argentina (F4U); Brazil (P-47); and Uruguay (F6F). Bolivia will be the next addition. I had hoped Arma would have their P-51D out by now, but since they don't I'll use this Airfix kit I picked up. One day I want to build the Korean version from it, but for now she'll be Bolivian. I will use decals and the profile from Aztec:
  16. Hi folk's should be enought time to do another 1/48 build for this GB so instead of the common sense route of Tamiya's offering's I'll head back to Happy childhood days and Airfix's at the time much lauded release.KK have a dozen in stock so not sure which boxing will arrive if the decals are unusable AM will be bought.
  17. First, the photos... Here's my attempt at the 1/72 Airfix S.2B Buccaneer. For a kit which has had rave reviews, I had mixed feelings on mine, not helped by the fact that one of the wings was quite warped in the box, and I never managed to get it entirely straight. A couple of other fit issues around the big fuselage components left a bit of a messy finish, though I'm sure a more skilled modeller would have done a better job. That said... some components went together really nicely and were quite cleverly engineered, and the surface detail is pretty good too. It was built almost totally OOB, with the exception of some Eduard etch for the cockpit, and those Quickboost intake FOD covers. Paints were Hataka acrylic, mostly airbrushed but a bit of detail added by brush. I wanted to weather it enough to represent a late-life, well worn example, and this was mostly done with oils (a little clay wash shading too). To get that properly worn, faded look, the whole thing was sprayed with Windsor & Newton Galeria matt acrylic varnish. When they say “matt” they really mean it! The flattest finish I’ve ever used. I deviated from the Airfix guide on the weapons colours, and went for 'live' markings on the Paveway and the AIM-9L. All photographed on the dining room table, as usual... the 'night' ones were done with just two torches for illumination. The hangar backdrop photo is courtesy of Nick Challoner, and the first generic airfield backdrop was a large print made after purchasing the shot from Shutterstock. Overall I'm fairly happy with it for the small scale - I think it was NavyBird who said how unforgiving close-up photos of small scale models can be, and he's right...don't zoom in too closely! Thanks for looking.
  18. Bit of a place holder as I am at the painting stage of a Soviet PE-2 in the WW2 twins GB and am just starting to build an EE Lightning in the Baby Boomers GB. I have never made a Mustang before, but it is probably my favourite WW2 US fighter, although I do have a bit of a thing for the Hellcat....... Will hopefully make a start on these in the next couple of weeks. George
  19. After slogging through a big build of a short run kit for the past few weekends, I needed a little mojo-building exercise to get my head back in the game. Going through the stash I discovered a newer-tooled Airfix Spitfire Vc that I'd bought for less than $10USD some time ago. Whenever I see a new Airfix kit on sale for less than a tenner, I instinctively buy it for just such an occasion. I also had an Eduard “Zoom” cockpit set and canopy masks so the choice to build this little Spit was a no-brainer. This was the result of a weekend build-a-thon: 74556352-FF48-4229-B930-6F4416054119 by Evan Bailly, on Flickr Also present in the stash was a multi-topic decal set from DK Decals that I'd purchased for a previously built P-47. In the set were the markings of two RAAF Spitfire Vc airframes, and I chose A58-180 for its odd nose art of a bull chomping on a rising sun flag. Helped by a few older threads here on BritModeller, I think I got reasonably close to the subject for a mostly out of the box build. F73F86FC-FE78-4401-8E9F-5028D34EEB64 by Evan Bailly, on Flickr Paints were all from AK's Real Colors range, RC340 for the RAAF Foliage Green, and RC241 for the RAAF Sky Blue. The dark brown was mostly standard RC287 RAF Dark Earth but the areas where the the original aircraft had been over sprayed (over the RAF roundels, and the RAAF's earlier Squadron and tail empennage markings) were a mix of dark earth and RC081 to provide a little tonal difference. Weathering came from a sponge on a stick for chipping and artists oils for washes and filters. To Arifix's plastic I added the previously mentioned Eduard "Zoom" cockpit details and, made from wire, the rod-type IFF antenna under the starboard wing particular to RAAF spitfires. Other than those the kit was built out of the box and according to Airfix's instructions. Total build time: two evenings and a few Sunday morning minutes for cleanup and photos. 99DC7EB6-E152-4858-BFFB-D4908FBB9120 by Evan Bailly, on Flickr 1AE774CF-3F67-4D9F-8035-97400CC43C34 by Evan Bailly, on Flickr 40B90BE7-20F0-4DA7-93AD-258C14752275 by Evan Bailly, on Flickr 5456F7C0-332F-482C-9435-70996E14108C by Evan Bailly, on Flickr
  20. My last Airfix Mustang in the stash. I found some goodies too. Although the red-tail markings are attractive, I once fell for the luxorious design of these Exito decals, and I somehow need to motivate that expense, so this will be the choice this time: It’s a P51D-25-NA operating as long-range escort out of Iwo Jima towards the end of the war, and since I have 5-, 10 and 15-NA since before it complements the collection. Some tweaks will be needed, regarding radio equipment (I distinctly remember they had a different set of boxes, not to mention the different set of antennas) and tail-warning radar. I now have one week to find that vac form canopy and Quickboost exhaust stacks I remember buying but cannot find. I now understand how squirrels feel.
  21. I know we have a few days...I just want to roll this one onto the tarmac before I forget. This'll be OOB as I have no clever aftermarket decals. No bother. This is fantastic enough, of course. And a nice kit, as I recall. I've built it before. That was a post-war Uruguayan. I am looking forward to adding this one to the lineup. And I just took a quick inventory...I already have three Mustangs in the cabinet---Uruguay, Switzerland and one from No.19 Sqn RAF. So it is essential I have an American bird. Nice plumage... I think I'll be painting the red and yellow decal bits. It always looks better than the decals which, for me, never quite fit right around the edges. Btw...for those who have been paying attention...I have new airbrush compressor so I will be making headway on the three jets already on the bench. I have been eyeing a Hunter for a second build in the Boomer GB...19 Sqn? --John
  22. This is a piece I wrote on Airfix’s little 1/1200 scale Bismarck for the IPMS/USA Journal many years ago. At the time – well before its 2012 re-release as part of the “Sink the Bismarck” set – the 1973 model was a rare kit. Airfix 1/1200 Bismarck (kit 4204) Perhaps the most famous warship of all time, the German battleship Bismarck is one of those ships whose legend has come to overshadow reality. Displacing more than 50,000 tons and shipping eight massive 15 inch guns as well as an imposing array of secondary artillery, Bismarck was indeed an awesome weapon. According to a 1942 U.S. Office of Naval Intelligence assessment, “Bismarck was probably as formidable as any battleship then in service”. Yet the ship’s major claim to fame, the sinking of the HMS Hood and mauling the battleship Prince of Wales, was a bit of a fluke. The German task force was actually sailing under orders to avoid British warships in order to focus on its real mission, the destruction of merchant shipping. As it happened they were unable to elude the Royal Navy, and the epic pursuit, Battle of the Denmark Strait, and the Bismarck’s dramatic final destruction have earned the ship a kind of mythical status. Still, despite its immense firepower and the valor of its crew, the Bismarck was, in the final analysis, a dinosaur. Built and deployed at staggering cost, Germany’s most famous battleship failed utterly in its primary mission: Bismarck never sank a single merchant ship. By contrast, the U-Boats, smaller and comparatively cheap to build, were to sink over 5,000 merchant ships and nearly starve Britain out of the war. Had Germany taken to heart the lessons of the First World War and abandoned the useless big gun fleet in favor of the U-Boat arm, the Kriegsmarine could have used its over 8,300 battleship sailors to man an additional 166 U-boats at the outset of the conflict—enough to quadruple the vital submarine force at a time when Britain was most vulnerable. Splendid as they were, the very size, power, and cost of the mighty Bismarck and the other battleships may well have cost Germany the critical Battle of the Atlantic. This kit was one of Airfix’s first 1/1200 “Naval History Series” clip-together models issued in 1973. I hadn’t even heard of this series until recently; apparently there was also a Prinz Eugen, Hood, Ark Royal, Suffolk, and a Tribal class destroyer (all ships involved in the Bismarck chase). These kits have long been out of production, but you can often find them on auction sites fairly cheap (I paid less than ten bucks for this one). The 50 gray plastic parts assemble into a basic but good looking little battleship. The waterline hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck, so there are none of those annoying mid-deck seams so common on larger scale kits. This is fortunate since the raised deck planking is beautifully delicate. In fact, it is some of the best I’ve seen in any scale—they really got it right way back in 1973! I wish more model manufacturers had continued this style of depiction for planked decks, so much more effective than the overdone trench lines so often seen today. Assorted deck hardware is also well done with bitts, hatches, vents, and other details sharply depicted. Unfortunately, the model overall doesn’t quite capture the graceful lines of the original. The length/beam dimensions are right, but the hull form is too pudgy fore and aft. Also, the armor belt is too low, and the numerous portholes are missing. Worse, the funnel, superstructures and aft turrets are placed just a little too far back. The problem isn’t too noticeable until you get to the fantail, which is about 20 scale feet too short as a result. The superstructure is simplified. The distinctive spherical hoods of the 4m type SL-8 antiaircraft directors are molded integrally with the superstructure and represented as rounded tops on the mounts rather than as spherical shapes. Not very good. Also, the aft mounts shouldn’t have the hoods at all (unless you intend to build the model as the Tirpitz). The two-part funnel is hollow with an open grating represented on the top. Main turrets are ok, except that the barrels are about 6 scale feet too long and the rangefinder hoods extend too far down the sides—but they are fixable. The 150mm secondary turrets have simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long. In addition, the ‘midships pair of secondary mounts just forward of the funnel should have rangefinder “ears”. Smaller parts vary in quality from fair to excellent. The tiny Arado Ar-196 floatplane is only so-so with no floats and an overlarge canopy, but the aircraft/boat handling cranes are fairly good. The 10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures are delicately rendered, as are the masts. The best parts are the ship’s boats, 37mm, and 105mm antiaircraft guns, which rival comparable parts in many larger scale kits—if this kit were more readily available I would be tempted to raid these to outfit a Revell 1/1200 scale Scharnhorst or Gneisenau. Incidentally, this kit is unrelated to the 1/1200 scale Bismarck/Tirpitz kits currently marketed by Revell Germany as part of their “Miniships” line. Those models seem to be reissues of the old Casadio/ESCI kit, which was mediocre at best. Though harder to find, Airfix’s model is much better. This is a clip-together model, so assembly was a piece of cake. The deck, hull, superstructure, and funnel went together in a matter of minutes. The kit parts look decent, but the bulkheads and hull sides are almost completely featureless. The only details in evidence are the numerous “Aztec temple” style inclined ladders on the decks. I’ve never been a fan of these, but in this small scale they actually don’t look too bad, so I left them. To add a bit of further visual interest to the plain bulkheads I added some of the many portholes with which Bismarck was festooned. Using line drawings of the ship reduced to 1/1200 scale on a copier as a guide, I drilled out over 140 of these things using a tiny #77 bit chucked into my X-acto. These little scuttles were a simple (if tedious) way to busy up the highly visible surfaces. It was not a very difficult operation, just requiring a bit of care to keep the holes evenly spaced and in line. The wood decks were excellent, with delicate molded plank detail and various hatches, breakwaters, and assorted deck gear cleanly rendered. One small problem here was on the second deck between forward superstructure and aircraft catapult, which Airfix had depicted as wood. It was actually unplanked steel on the real ship, but a little sanding and it was good to go. The configuration of the ground tackle and forecastle deck was also a little off from my references, so I removed the molded anchor chains and corrected the area as best I could. Airfix did not provide anchors, so I fitted the ship with new photoetch anchors and chains (Tom’s Modelworks 1/700 scale photoetched brass anchor set #724) both here and at the stern. Next came the weapons. The main 15 inch turrets, molded integrally with the guns, came first. These weren’t perfectly accurate, but the only changes made were to reduce the thickness of the rangefinder “ears” (the kit parts came down too far) and to hollow out the muzzles using the tip of a new #11 X-acto blade. An additional alteration was to remove the rangefinders entirely from turret Anton, the forward turret. Airfix depicted these rangefinders in place, which was correct for the ship as built. However, during initial trials the Germans found them to be useless in that position due to seas over the bow, and they soon removed them. The smaller 150mm secondary turrets were similar to the main guns, except I didn’t hollow out the muzzles (a dab of black paint at the ends is enough to fool the eye in 1/1200). The 105mm and 37mm antiaircraft guns were fine out of the box, just needing a minimum amount of mold clean up. The kit omits the 20mm single mounts entirely, but they would have been almost invisible in this very small scale anyway. Sensors and fire control fittings varied in quality. The 10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures were nicely depicted, the only improvements here being to add small photoetched screen material to the radar faces. The armored domes for the type 1937 rangefinders, on the other hand, were pretty poor. I didn’t take the trouble to replace them with corrected spherical shapes, but I did remove the domes from the aft mounts. The Airfix mold makers probably used builder’s plans showing these in place, but in fact Bismarck was rushed into service and the planned domes were never fitted to these positions. I removed them and filled the empty mounts with parts adapted from spare 1/700 Japanese destroyer rangefinders. The parts box also yielded searchlights to fill empty positions near the mainmast and on the main tower. The ship’s boats, cranes, and aircraft were ok from the kit, if lacking in detail. The masts weren’t bad either, except that the mainmast was way too tall. I ended up using only the lower half of it and fabricating the upper part from portions of the kit part, copper wire, and leftover photoetch bits. The other masts and rigging were made up in the same way. Some additional detail for the aircraft catapult and the two small triangular cranes on the after part of the funnel were also 1/700 scale photoetch leftovers pressed into service. The most fiddly part of the build was the railing. Now 1/1200 scale is very small indeed (1 inch equals 100 feet!), and I’d never tried to rail a ship this small before. Still, it would look very cool if I could pull it off, so I ordered the only set I knew of designed for such a small scale, Tom’s Modelworks’ 1/1250 3-bar photoetch brass railing. When the rails arrived, I couldn’t believe it! These things were unbelievably fine, consistent, and in-scale. The shiny brass parts were just beautiful, and I couldn’t wait to try them out. I painted them up, cut out a test section and glued it on and they looked, well… disappointing. What happened? The rails were straight, consistent, and in-scale as expected. The problem was, these things were actually too fine. Yeah, they were correct, but I could barely see those test runs once they were on! I decided to try another approach. I had some 1/600 scale railing on hand (Gold Medal Models Merchant Ship detail set #600-2), so I took a length of 4-bar rails from the set and cut them down lengthwise to create 2-bar rails a little less than 1/16th of an inch high. Though still small, these rails were somewhat less delicate than the brass set—and looked much better. The stainless steel photoetch was not easy to cut (my scissors were junk by the end of this project), but these rails worked great. I liked this tougher material, which was less prone to damage than the softer brass. Methodically trimming each run down was not the most exciting of tasks, but once cut the rails went on without any problems. And I was satisfied with the final effect: busy, delicate, yet still clearly visible, even if you do have to move in close to see it! The Bismarck carried a number of paint schemes during its short existence, but its most colorful was the scheme worn between March and May 1941 while working up in the Baltic Sea. The colors consisted of Hellgrau 50 (aka Silbergrau, or silver gray) superstructure and upper works and Dunkelgrau 51 (aka Fehgrau, or squirrel gray) hull. Dunkelgrau 53 (aka Anthrazitgrau, or anthracite gray) was painted on the hull ends fore and aft in an attempt to shorten the apparent length of the vessel, complete with white false wakes to enhance the illusion. The primary and secondary turrets were Silbergrau with dark gray tops (not maroon as is sometimes depicted). The teak decks were left unpainted wood, and the steel decks were dark gray. Aerial recognition panels, each with a large black swastika inside a white circle on red panel, were painted on the main deck fore and aft. The most distinctive aspects of the scheme were large, angular black and white stripes across the hull and superstructure. I don’t know how these were supposed to work; maybe they were to disrupt directional observation, or perhaps the black and white bands were supposed somehow to blend visually with the background at a distance, or they might have been intended to make identifying the ship more difficult by obscuring the ship’s configuration. In any case, U.S. Naval intelligence assessment of the stripes’ effectiveness as camouflage was scathing, dismissing them as “ineffective.” They still looked kinda cool though! Finding paints to approximate the various colors was not difficult. Model Master Italian Blue Gray (lightened) was a reasonable match for Silbergrau, while Model Master Neutral Gray worked for Fehgrau and Model Master Gunship Gray stood in for Anthrazitgrau. I used a lightened Model Master Armor Sand for the wood decks, Model Master French Khaki for the floatplane, and the boats were painted with Model Master Military Brown. Out of sheer laziness I brush painted the entire project, but if I were to do it again I would use the airbrush to get a more even finish. Bridge windows were little squares cut from black decal scraps as were the vision slits in the armored tower. The Hakenkreuz air recognition markings are decals from I-94 Enterprises www.I-94enterprises.com (product GR-105, German WWII Battle and Air Recognition Flags for 20mm-1/285 armor). Intended for armor models, they aren’t 100% correct for the Bismarck, as they should cover a larger deck area and the swastikas shouldn’t have the quarter turn, but they still look good. I had originally intended to use larger, more appropriately sized panels adapted from a 1/48 aircraft decal, but the larger size tended to highlight the model’s too-short fantail. These markings actually worked better! Airfix’s little 1/1200 scale Bismarck is an attractive model, noticeably superior to the more widely available Revell “Miniships” Bismarck/Tirpitz. If you want a small scale Bismarck for your fleet (and aren’t bothered by a few inaccuracies), this kit is an inexpensive, fun choice! References http://www.kbismarck.com/ A terrific website with info on all things Bismarck including color profiles of the ship and a great model gallery. http://www.bismarck-class.dk/ Another excellent website with lots of Bismarck info. http://www.history.navy.mil/faqs/faq118-2.htm An interesting summary of the Bismarck sortie prepared by the U.S. Office of Naval Intelligence in 1942.
  23. Joining you with this kit, costing £3 at Lyneham last year. Which carried stripes after D-Day. Which is how I intend to complete the build.
  24. Hi all, I'm tearing my hair out here. I'd like to know who the artist of this specific box art was. It was a kit I had a good 15 years ago or so (roughly that is - memory is poor!) and would love an A4 or A3 print of it possibly. Please can someone point my in the right direction? I don't think it's Roy Cross but I'm happy to be proven wrong but I just can't find any details around it anywhere!!! Thanks!
  25. A third entry, and for me an iconic Baby Boomer, following the release of the film Goldfinger, the Corgi version of James Bond's Aston Martin DB5 became the must have toy back in the mid-60's. For this build I am using the 1/43 Airfix starter set version which should make up into a nice little representation of this classic Grand Tourer, by John L, on Flickr Here are the main sprues, by John L, on Flickr and the clear parts decals, paints and glue. by John L, on Flickr John.
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