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  1. Hallo WNW Information on this kit This is my second WW1 bomber in 1/32. The AEG was my first. Considering all my 1/32 builds from WNW I did, so this one caused me some more headache as I was used. The building process showed me, that there are some issues where I think the designer of the kit was absent. The cooling pipes running from the engine to the cooler at the front strut are wrong in transverse distance. You must cut them, otherwise the strut would crack. The other thing is many important details are not shown at all in the instructions. Instead of this the guns are shown multiple times. The pivot point of the rudder is such an item. On the other hand the outer struts. They have cables running vertically twice, in the front and rear. What for? There is no explanation in the instruction. For lighting or Bowden cables. If the latter, then for assembly or disassembly the wing. If you decide to make such a model, be sure that you are firm with all rigging techniques required. I did it, as you can find on my threats. Already posted couple of times. Well, the next time will be a modelling break for one month. Since I will be engaged with my digital model railway in H0, where most locomotives are upgraded with sound. Some programing is needed and some mapping of functions too. Happy modelling Happy New Year 2022
  2. I have to admit when I started this build in September I didn’t think I would have it finished by the end of the year. Not because the kit is a hard build but because I am normally a slow builder, this is my first 32nd scale kit and I was intending trying some new techniques. The kit is the Hasegawa Ju 87-G built as a G2 W.Nr. 494221 of 10/SG2 Using EagleCal decals. The cockpit was enhanced using Eduard PE, scratch built details, HG seatbelts and brass gun barrels. The 37mm canons also got some details and alu barrels. For painting I used a combination of Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics with the odd Humbrol enamel thrown in. The full build is detailed in the WIP section “Building a Kanonen Vogel” if anyone is interested with more pictures of the cockpit and other bits. Anyway here are the pictures, I hope you like it and thanks for looking. Thanks for looking and best wishes for 2022.
  3. This project has come about almost by default. When I completed the 1/32 de Haviland 1A scratch build : I put it in a purpose made perspex display box, only to find that I had made a measurement error and the box is only just big enough to hold the model! I bought a second larger box for the de Haviland and now have a spare box. What to put into it? The box restricts the size of the subject: I had thought of an RE 5 or RE 7 but both of these are too large to fit. Other smaller subjects either do not interest me, are available as kits or are going to be released in the future, so they were all crossed off the list. Then the idea came to me to build a Royal Aircraft Factory BE 2a, (the predecessor of the better known BE 2c), as this was my first "free-lance" conversion (ie. I did not use an article but built it myself using the Airfix DH 4 as a donor kit for the wings, wheels, prop and struts), and it is very unlikely that a kit manufacturer is going to issue one at any time soon. This is the model I built in 1978: When I made the above model I had originally wanted to build a BE 2c but detailed sources were limited and I could not find any drawings of the type. Therefore I built the BE 2a because I had a copy of Profile No 133: Building a model of an aeroplane in 1/32 scale means that a great deal more information is needed. Fortunately DataFile No 163 provides excellent 1/48 scale drawings and many photographs: There are also many photographs of replica machines at Point Cook in Australia and Montrose in Scotland, and there is a replica BE 2b in the RAF Museum at Hendon. Recently this fine volume has appeared on the type: This book is a mine of information on the type and a go-to source for information: there is a review in Cher Ami vol. 10 no 1. There was only one outstanding problem: I could not find enough information on the 70 hp Renault engine dimensions to be able to scratch build one, (there are no kits of this type available in this scale). In the meantime I continued with other True Scale projects until I had a breakthrough via RichieW of ww1aircraftmodels.com. He is scratch building a 1/32 BE 2c and has to make a 100 hp RAF 1A engine. He was discussing how to make the cylinders on that website when "Rookie" gave him the engine sprue of the WingnutWings RE 8 which had an RAF 4A engine. The RAF 4A engine was a 12 cylinder V which had been developed from the 8 cylinder RAF 1A. The latter was an upgraded version of the Renault 70 hp and as Richie only needed 8 cylinders for his model that left two spare cylinders which he kindly passed over to me. I now had a potential solution to my biggest problem - how to scratch the 70 hp Renault engine - because I could now calculate the critical dimensions and had sufficient information about specific details to make an attempt. If I can build the engine, I can build the remainder of the model. I intend to use as little aftermarket material as possible on this build, so I will only show it if I use any. Apart from the engine the other part that I was concerned about making was the 4 bladed propellor. I have made 2 bladed props in 1/32 scale, and 2 and 4 bladed props in the True Scale, but this would be my first 4 bladed prop in 1/32 so I started with this. I have a supply of hardwood strip, (I do not know what the wood is - I inherited it from my father many years ago), which I use to carve RFC and RNAS props. I cut two long strips and 4 shorter ones: The long strips were glued to make a cross and the 4 shorter pieces then glued to each of the 4 arms with Evostick wood glue to give me the correct thickness of wood to carve. This was pressed for 24 hours in my state-of-the-art press (a pile of books): The shape of the blades was drawn on to the surface of the cross and arrows drawn to indicate which way the blades needed to be filed: The shape of the individual blades and boss were cut and filed first. This ensures that each blade is the correct shape and size when looked at head-on. The next step was to shape one of the blades: this was done with files only - it is too easy to slip when using a knife and the wood does not always cut smoothly, so an accident is possible and much time and effort can be wasted in a second if a mishap occurs. Filing may take longer but errors are much less likely. The arrows indicated the slope of the blade face - each one has to be identical to its neighbour and mistakes can be easily made here too. Final shaping and smoothing was done with glass paper: The quantity of dust that filing and sanding one blade is shown here: This is the finished propellor waiting to be varnished: I will use a resin boss from Proper Plane, (an aftermarket product), as this will be in a very prominent position on the model and for once I am taking the quickest route! I will post more on the engine later because at present it consists of a lump of laminated plastic waiting to be filed to shape. Thanks for looking. p
  4. Hallo Does anyone have experience with wire wheels ore spoked wheels such wheels of early WW1 aircraft? Like a bicycle. There are options, like in WNW kits. Until now I worked with covered wheels. As most of WW1 aircraft have. The etched parts, which should be formed to a cone, do not get easily bend conform. Any other method available? Thanks in forward Happy modelling
  5. Morning all, This is another fugitive from the recent Phantom STGB, to go with the parade of Phantoms we've had this month! As everybody knows, you can't have too many Phantoms 😉 This is the (in)famous Tamiya 1/32 kit from 2001(?) It's okay but nowhere near modern day Tamiya in terms of fit or accuracy. Its weaknesses are well known and documented but I haven't corrected anything, so weird patches, wrong dihedral, misshapen rear fuselage and grossly undersized nozzles are all there. I used Eduard interior set to improve the cockpit, seats and canopies, which would be otherwise completely devoid of detail. The surface details are good, and the smaller components fit beautifully. Pretty much everything else needed filler and the top wing joint with the fuselage is actually held together with masking tape, as there's literally no contact with the fuselage 🤔 Now the good bits... paint used was MRP Israeli FS colours and boy, are those good paints! Used AK Gauzy Intermediate as a gloss coat and Xtracrylix Flat to finish. Decals were a mix of Warbird stencils and Sky's Decal for the insignia and squadron markings/serial numbers. They all behaved beautifully despite numbering into the hundreds. The aircraft represented is Kurnass 116 of Squadron 201 'The One'. It is based on a documented mission flown on 12 October 1973 to strike Damascus Airport, codenamed RAM. The four-ship strike package (Panther flight) all carried mixed bombloads: three with five Mk117s and three Mk83s, and one with 5xMk117s and three CBU-54 cluster munitions. The resin bombs came from Videoaviation in Italy and they are very highly recommended! The aircraft also carries two Deker (AIM-9D Sidewinder) and two Lavid (AIM-7E Sparrow). 116 confirmed one MiG-21 kill with a Lavid during this mission after Panther flight was bounced by two flights of four MiG-21s egressing the target area. Overall this was not the easy build I was expecting. 2001 Tamiya (the original mould was mid-90s) is not 2021 Tamiya! I really pity anyone who paid the eye-watering £125 RRP for this kit as it's barely better than the Revell kit which retailed at about £45. But you pays your money, etc! It still builds up into this huge and impressive result. As you can see from the bits in the background, this is a very big model! Anyway... It's finished! If you like Phantoms, go and give the STGB some love, I don't think I've seen such a high standard in a group build, which is amazing considering it's time-limited. This build thread is here, in case you're interested in the triumphs and failings of both kit and modeller! Cheers Alan 👍
  6. I recently finished a Tamiya F-4E Phantom for the STGB as an Israeli Kurnass from 1973. It's the only timeframe you can get away with using that kit. I enjoyed the experience and had lots of paint and decals left over for another one, but wanted to build a Kurnass 2000 as an update. For this you need the Revell kit as the Tamiya is very limited to Vietnam era. These are getting scarce and command silly prices on eBay et al. So I was very pleased to see Academy were reboxing it. Unfortunately it was advertised as a Vietnam boxing, and featured the same hard wing configuration on the box art 😟 Well I got one anyway, and very pleased to note it has both hard and slatted wing options, along with an excellent additional sprue containing strike cameras, TISEO, dorsal avionics bump and the datalink pod for early PGMs. This makes it suitable for pretty much any era and more than makes the price worth it for the Revell plastic, and a huge decal sheet with many options including US, Korean and Japanese subjects. I'll post some pics when I can organise all the photo hosting malarkey. Alan
  7. Hallo This is my attempt of getting the paint scheme of the Halberstadt CL.II right done. The photos from the original in the museum in Krakow I use as a guideline. The proposal from WNW is spraying with reduced air pressure. So you create a circular pattern, instead of an irregular pattern. Since the cowling is missing, I think to do it in analogy to the Fokker E1 with aluminum coat and the pattern as shown. I am not sure, but in the web I found nothing to relay on. Archive photos and the original in Krakow are my only holdings. Anyway the model is complete with all the interior. The instruction is as usual in WNW. Some errors in numbering, corrected on their website. The steps of assembling sometimes impossible, but since I know the models and their mistakes I get along. Well so far, any suggestions? Happy modelling
  8. Hello fellows, Here my P47-D Thunderbolt, "2 big and Too Heavy", finished. A wonderful kit from Trumpeter; the only drawaback was that the engine was impossible to fit in the cowling, as I explained in the WIP thread. I hope you like the fotos, as much I enjoyed building and painting this wonderful "jug". Your comments will be welcome... And here, the link to my WIP: Thanks for looking!
  9. I started this 1/32 Hornby kit earlier in the year as part of the Africa GB. Unfortunately I subsequently had to withdraw it, when I realised that I couldn't pull together the necessary Safari Rally decals (here's a link to my build thread). Currently the car looks like this, with just the body shell needing to be painted and decalled. I'll be using the kit's Swedish Rally decals and will be making a start just as soon as my French Fancy and High Wing builds are finished. Cheers
  10. Now the Corsair is finished, it’s time to pull a kit out I’ve been excited to do and gathering parts for. This is the Zoukei Mura Do-335 A-0, but I will be modifying it to a B-2 heavy fighter-bomber version. This will be a Luft ‘46 build, with a heavy dose of inspiration from @Out2gtcha’s excellent Do-335 build. I have a wealth of aftermarket for this one, including (but not limited to); HGW seatbelts Sprues from the HK Do-335 B-2 CMK Bombs Zoukei Mura Photoetch upgrade sets Eduard Photoetch upgrade sets Master brass barrels MDC resin guns and oxygen hoses And much more! This will be a long and intricate build with much modification of the kit. I am going to rivet the whole plane with the MDC rivet tool, one rivet at a time. I am contemplating trying a stressed skin effect on it too (not decided on that one yet!). We shall see how this goes! Here are some shots of my build so far; For those interested here’s some ‘history’ of the Do-335 from an alternate history concept I am working on; ‘Following many discussions in the Luftwaffe High Command, a push was made in 1942 to accelerate the Me-262 program as a counter to the increasing bombing raids the Allies were raining down on Germany. Hitler wanted the jet to become a fast fighter-bomber, but he was talked out of this by pointing out the Do-335 would make a superior schnell bomber with its increased bomb load and excellent flight characteristics. This led to funds and resources being diverted from other wonder weapon programs to boost the Do-335 production capabilities. The decreasing effectiveness of Allied bombing as the jet interceptors came online and started to take down bombers in large numbers, combined with resources gained from various areas in the Middle East and the Caucasus region allowed the Luftwaffe numbers to swell to sizes only seen in 1939. During the lull in heavy bombing as the Allied air forces reassessed their strategies, German factories began relocation into underground facilities that had been under construction for several months at that point. Dornier was able to significantly increase their output with heavy focus put into Do-335 production and modification. By late autumn 1945 the plant was turning out 9 planes a shift, 3 shifts a day, and numbers were only to increase. The Do-335 underwent significant modifications over its lifetime, later to become a fantastic heavy night fighter, often competing with Heinkel’s 219 as the preferred aircraft for that role. It is largely remembered for its role as a fighter-bomber and the damage it inflicted in rapid bombing campaigns during several key moments in the late war. The almost continual bombing of the Normandy beach head delayed the Allies gaining their foothold on the continent by several days, enough to bring panzer forces up to slow the advance further. Bombing of Allied positions during the Ardennes Offensive allowed German forces to reach Antwerp, cutting British and American lines leading to chaos among Allied top brass and a strategic withdrawal, if temporarily, back past the French border. The most famous operation the Do-335 was involved in was the ‘sealing’ of the Suez Canal during the rapid push into Egypt by Rommel’s Afrika Korps in early 1944. 15 Do-335 B-1’s go 3/JG.55 were tasked with destroying any facilities and shipping in the canal to prevent British reinforcement and resupply of their beleaguered forces in Egypt. After several runs hitting port facilities and merchant ships they came across a Royal Navy force trying to exit the canal headed by HMS King George V. The ships were steaming at an excessive speed for the canal hoping to exit the canal before being spotted and were bunched too close together in the tight confines. Hauptmann Martin Huber spotted the ships and led his flight down to bomb such tempting targets. The flak coming up from the ships and land based guns was intense, but the Dornier’s speed held them in good stead as they came down. Huber had given targets to each plane but the focus was the battleship. Performing a dive bomb the Do-335 hadn’t been designed for Huber’s flight dropped their bombs as low as they felt the could and pulled up and away fast. Fearing flak and enemy fighters, the Do-335’s sped away rapidly. Little did Huber know his run had dealt a fatal blow. A 500Kg bomb from his plane had penetrated the King George V’s main forward magazine and detonated. The resulting explosion blew the bow end of the battleship clean off killing 800 of the crew outright. The explosion was so powerful, and the proximity of the other ships in the flotilla so close, the two destroyers (HMS Nubian & Māori) were destroyed outright. The HMS Suffolk unable to stop in time plowed straight into the wreck of the King George V and led to a naval pileup which blocked the canal. Damage from the explosion obliterated ground forces in the area tasked with defending the canal entrance. No more British traffic was able to make it through, and would have to travel the long way around and into a South Atlantic heavily populated with U-Boats. The Afrika Korps were able to seize on the chance and several days later take the canal and push on into the Sinai.’ The Longest War: The Air War Over Europe & The North African Theatre 1939-1948
  11. My second build of this fantastic kit this time went for a sun-beaten HAF scheme as I’m a bit of a Greek-ophile anyway and I love the scheme. Paints AK Real Colour/ Extreme metal. Quinta Studios 3D decals for the cockpit and ProCal HAF markings for the exterior. Thanks for looking.
  12. So in my ItPsv 90 build thread I mumbled about possibly going for multiple entries in this group build, and as I hoped something did show up in the mail a little while ago. Now I do seem to be a pretty quick builder overall, but being my first 1/32 kit ever and clearly being a Project™ of the likes I haven't been involved with with since I built Revell's Vasa (including hand painting every nail head along the hull sides) I haven't really got a clue if it'll be done by Christmas or not. Oh well, if not I'll just have to do the jaunt of limited glory over to the regular WIP board (where we already have a build ongoing, saving me from being the first to walk into the potential minefield of this kit). Building basically only 1/72 and 1/700, this is one massive bird. Just over twice the size of a 1/72 one, imagine that... The box had clearly not been treated very gently in transport, but looking through things it seems the onyl damage suffered was possibly a bit to the tow bar (which I have no itnent of using anyway) and the apparently customary broken wingtip. A clean break luckily, and I found the missing piece in the box, so easy enough to just glue back on. As per my own habit I started out with the ordnance. The gas tank halves appeared to have flattened a bit from perfectly round, and unfortunately 90° out of phase with each other. Matched up on one side the called for a good bit of putty on the other. No retail nearby so puttying and sanding could be done with impunity. The 3D printed fins got a quick bit of sanding to remove the layering texture before being glued on. Next, missiles. These have resin bodies with printed bums and for the Rb74 also printed noses. As I was chopping away to separate the casting blocks I noticed a bit of an air bubble just under the skin on one, holding it up to the light... Oh dear. On removing the casting... flange this then turned into an actual hole, and attempts were made to fill it in with relatively runny filler, but as it turns out that softened up the thin edges around it and now it'll be a relatively involved job to fix it all. Add in the extra chunks of resin you can see on top of the main body over to the right, which are also present on the other three to various degrees, and I've simply gone and ordered some Eduard replacements (they're largely license built AIM-9L) and downgraded the kits ones to plan B. The clear nose parts on those also seem very cool, so that's a plus. A quick comparison of parts vs shipping cost had me toss in some AIM-7E as well in case they'd just happen to be better looking but otherwise interchangeable than the Rb71 (aka license built Skyflash) in the kit. Front fuselage's next. I decided to look into any major sanding/carving/filling jobs there first before getting started on the cockpit. Some initial scouting showed first some peculiar creases in places. Luckily they're all ridges extending out form the surface and with the 1/32 sized detailing means it's easy to sand off. (The same appears to hold largely true for most of the 3D-printing texture found here and there on the piece.( Let's just hope it isn't a sign of massive internal stress that'll rip everything apart in a few years. Looking inside the intake trunking has tabs that should slide into slots in the fuselage. Looking at those slots and the general intake area of the main fuselage part... This won't be a shake-n-bake. Also, I've noticed that the inner wall wee see there at the rear of the cockpit and kinda rear of the wheel well, well, I dunno if it's also where they had the master split in two or if it's just that the wall in question shrank a bit much after casting but around the lower half of the fuselage we have a bit of a general depression on the outside centred around a pretty clear line just outside of the wall. Good thing I got a new tube of filler recently. Time to start making dust.
  13. Hi folk's, we have a victory! A glint of sunshine has caught the edges of the modelling desk,or rather I've managed to finish a kit in what has been a pitifull year model wise.Revell's Mkix in a post war Russian scheme worn in their last years of service,not too heavy on the weathering and managed not to ruin the white flash and rudder number which came as mask's in the decal set.Build log here. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235098109-revell-mkix-spitfire-in-soviet-colours/ Many thank's for taking the time to look.
  14. Hello all, I've been working on this one for a while now and i was hoping to get outside and get some photo's on a diorama and in daylight, but the weather hasnt been playing ball. So, i thought i'd get some indoor pics done and then update this later. The build includes Red Fox Studios instrument set and all the weapons are attached with magnets for ease of transportation, paints were from Gunze and oil washed with Abteilung Starship filth for the most part. All comments welcome 🙂
  15. Hey everyone With my 1/48 Tempest build coming to an end and my Harrier coming along nicely, I’ve decided that to keep my interest (in the Harrier) from waining I’ll build another Tempest Mk.V as the one from Eduard has really wetted my appetite for this rugged but rather handsome airplane. This one will be the 1/32 Hi-Tech offering from Special Hobby. As I seem to have more money than sense I’ll be adding some after market in the way of… And.. And.. And.. And.. And for some reason.. Plus all the resin and etch that you get in the standard kit. As ever I’ll be creating and spraying all codes and markings (not sure which yet), hopefully once completed I should have a fine replica of the real thing. Cheers all Iain
  16. Plus the Magic Scale Modelling Light & sound kit. AOA decals, Quickboost pilot & RIO, painted Mig Ammo light gull grey. Link to video at the bottom showing the light & sound of engine start etc. (I know the open canopy position isn’t right but I’m delicately balancing best I can before I commit to glueing - the only minus point for Tamiya in this kit!) thanks for looking. jump to 2:55 if you want to skip my rambling
  17. We've just started a Group Build over on the ATF and this is the subject. It is going together nicely, and I like that the parts are numbered in assembly sequence 8-) Yesterday I started spraying. Priming with Vallejo Acrylic 74601 Grey Polyurethane Surface Primer and 74602 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer The engine was sprayed with AK Interactive AK480 Xtreme Metal Dark Aluminium, and the exhausts with Alclad2 ACL-107 Chrome. The sub frame thingy with Vallejo Model Air 71063 Silver (Metallic) The cabin crew were sprayed with Vallejo Model Air 71076 Skin Tone then over-sprayed with different Andrea skin tone shades These bits also received Alclad2 ACL-107 Chrome On the left we have Vallejo Model Air 71073 Black (Metallic) and on the right Vallejo Model Air 71057 Black The bodywork is Humbrol Acrylic 38 Gloss Lime. Humbrol Acrylic 19 Gloss Bright Red
  18. Now that the magazine has finished selling, I can show some pictures of my 1/32 scale PZL.11c from IBG. It's a lovely fitting kit, and all the photoetched parts you need are in the kit, so this is built out of the box. The only drawback was having to scratchbuild a new windscreen, as the kit part had debris moulded into it. A couple of magazine shots: Cheers, Dean
  19. Welcome to anyone interested in following this. After completing the first in the line, the 1/48 Special Hobby Ju 87-A, I have been itching to build the last of the line. Just for completeness, of course. But this time I thought I would do something a bit different and go for 1/32 scale instead of my normal 1/48. It will give me a chance to try out some detailing and challenge my painting skills to produce something that does not look like a toy! The base for this build will be the Hasegawa kit. This has been sitting in the stash for some time as it is the one with the figure of Rudel and his dog but I don't think I will be tackling them this time round. At the moment I can't decide if this will be a G1 or a G2 so I will start on the generic parts of the build while the gears turn and I make my mind up. The difference, for any not aware, was the G1 was based on converted D3 airframes and the G2 were factory remanufactured airframes based on the extended wing D5, about 174 airframes in total. The G1 may be a little more interesting as they retained many of the attributes of the dive bombers they were converted from but... Anyway here is the progress so far. Test fit looks good but the spinner looks a little odd. Will have to look into that. Control surfaces separated. 37mm cannon built and detailed. I used wire for the compressed air, and electrical connections. Replacement barrels are from Master in Poland and are absolutely beautiful! Cockpit will be next and I have a PE set from Eduard to help a bit with this. Oh, I also opened up the underwing radiators to add a bit more life. Replacement exit flaps were made from the foil from the top of a wine bottle and looks a lot more to scale. That's it for now before I bore anyone still reading this. Hopefully I can get a bit more work done this week and will post an update. Thanks for having a look.
  20. Hi all. This I purchased this kit a couple of years ago at Telford when I had an idea of building a NI fit cab. As usual with my builds I build memories, having done 3 tours in Ulster starting in the 80’s these along with the Wessex are pinned in my memory. Moving on I wanted the boxing that had the PIP filters and the tiger meet boxing it was. The kit itself was obviously a design of the day so moaning is fruitless although the quality of the clear part is shocking and I feel I definitely got the Friday version. I wanted to add a bit of detail to the kit as I think for the pose I had in mind, too much would be on show. My original idea was a flyer with the 3 undercarriage legs lowered, a gun mounted and a Santa Clause in the other door. Alas I couldn’t find a suitable candidate so another option was chosen. Plan B was a 14 Int photographer hanging in the door way and I found a 3D printed figure on the bay in 1/32 scale. So the build pressed on and through research and advice from guys on here and on PPrune I modelled this cab of 1563 Flt which was part of 33 Sqn from Oct 94 and just prior to the application of the 2 tone green. The MRB are actually straight as the look slightly drooped in these photos. The whole disc is removable but the kit is mounted on the pole. The nose antenna were replaced with 0.28mm rod and looks quite well in this scale. Anyway I’m rubbish at photography but I took advantage of today’s sunshine and here we go. Build log is here 869E6AB0-A3D5-4738-8816-7ECCFAA46188 F74CCD14-2E19-46C9-9B44-4C515994B3F0 BF416798-7E39-4113-A388-F43D837EC97C 51852B87-275F-4B27-AC04-ED865CCE3436 7BD2D1F6-4D07-4739-8190-DF9332194839 B8AB78AB-D2FA-445A-9EAE-428FF4C9E3FE 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 4578ABA0-39B6-4EEA-8EA2-0E5C01394CA8 B907009A-F66D-4C72-A1D4-A9E64DEED7E3 6FFBCCD2-2008-49ED-88D1-B3D33AF877F2 6586A696-8DB6-47DE-9D88-7C2307470AF5 45E17CA2-DDD1-44D8-8309-6000ABB4C7D5 23B776BC-29C3-4A6B-9818-750FEE686E79 AA6E6796-6082-41E1-B64D-546DD06AF658 8397A977-8C37-4E69-A794-4874792698B3 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 My thanks go to Pete in Lins, Jabba, Rickoshea52, Benbow, tarlucan, Sammy da fish. I’m sorry if I’ve missed you out but it’s been a great example of everyone chipping in. I’m calling this one done and I’ll have a break before starting the next project. Thanks for watching, Steve.
  21. This represents an SBD-3 from VS-6 USS Enterprise June 4th 1942 crewed by ENS Frank O’Flaherty and AMM1 Bruno Gaido. Both Gaido and O’Flaherty were captured by the IJN after ditching their aircraft. After both men were interrogated, they had weights attached to them and thrown overboard to drown. This the Trumpeter Midway “Clear Edition”. As many have stated over the years, this is a pretty good kit! I wouldn’t mind building another one. The only AM used was Yahu IP, my wife made the squadron decal ID numbers for me. I used AK Paints exclusively on this build. This piece was awarded the “Whizzer White Memorial” Navy/Marine Attack Aircraft at the 2021 Las Vegas Nationals. Photos were taken with my iphone.
  22. Hi! I am the lucky owner of a DMC 1/32 Hawker Typhoon. Question: What glue do I use? Is superglue strong enough for the wing/fuselage joint? Cheers Hans J
  23. Hello all, i hope you're all keeping well. While between projects I manged to dive into a quick Hasegawa 190 kit, for some reason these kits are far better IMO and go together better/easier than the Revell versions. I had an EagleCals (EC#79) set sitting about so though id use them on this one and use the rest of sheet on another one later, also added were the gun barrels and pitot tube by Master (AM-32-065) set....plus some canopy masks as i hate masking canopies up :-). Paints as always are Gunze and then lightly weather with oil paints. I will try and get some outdoor and moody shots later on as its not the nicest weather outside right now. Hope you all like it, please feel free to comment or critique.
  24. Hi folk's,only half a year late this was meant to follow on from the Hobbyboss Vb and Revell Mkii in a trilogy of builds started in January in what was going to be a year of 1/32 builds but life and GB's got in the way. The kit was a bargain £19.99 free delivery. I loved this scheme when looking for something different with a decent weathering job it should stand out. Here's the first two builds.
  25. This is my second build of this magnificent kit of my one of my favourite Boeings. Extras included Master metal MG barrels, Yahu instrument panel, HGW fabric seatbelts, Master Details nose turret zip inserts, nose defrost pipe, control columns. Kits world decals. I did a build video series on YT if anyone's interested https://youtu.be/m-ncuQwvgcI Displayed with her sister ship "a bit o'lace" which I did earlier this year and motorised, but this one is just static. I just had to have a metal one and an OD one, but that's me done for big bombers now as have no more room (this is the only kit I know of supplied with these ingenious wall mounts). I know there's a nasty gap from the top section, but I am living with it as I value being able to pop the top off and look at the inside. Normally that kind of work is lost forever. Thanks for looking.
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