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Hello, Straying a bit outside my comfort zone here, with something that isn't mud green, mud yellow or grey. A couple of days back, I felt the need to build a kit that was a little different (for me), and wandered into an LMS, and took a look at what was on their shelves. The thing that caught my eye was this: A Revell boxing of an ICM Model T Roadster essentially a two seat Ford Model T. Sprue shots: The main sprues Think the sprue on the right is unique to this kit, the other two look fairly standard. Again, standard sprues. Separate wheels (presumably in case somebody wants to offer wire wheels?), white vinyl tyres, and a sprue that could have been brass plated, but, fortunately, isn't. And a clear plastic sprue Construction has started, with some key assemblies These need filling and checking but are, otherwise, ready for painting. Revell suggest that the engine should be aluminium, but modern photos of similar, preserved, machines have black engines, with post WWI versions having dark green engines. Dry fitted Afterthought This may not be quite so far from my usual builds as I thought: I have built a Model T chassis before, but then it was a 1/48 scale Soviet AA truck- basically a green camouflaged, 1940s era, licence built, 4x2 Ford Model T lorry.

Hi all, I have made the leap to diversify from my usual 1/35 armour builds to try a ww2 plane kit. If I only ever build 1 plane kit, I want to do a big one, and something less common......so I ordered Trumpeter's 1/24 Spitfire Mk V float plane for myself for Xmas. I have found some amazing references and history (which led me to buy the kit), but after reading some reviews of the kit one of the biggest flaws is the seat. After some browsing it seems that finding an "in stock" replacement isn't that easy. I guess with technology someone may 3d print one (beyond me) ?? Does anyone know of a replacement seat?

Hi everyone!!🙂 this is my 1/24 fujimi shelby cobra 427.. I pass the engine and focus on visible area in this case. I also made some modification on this kit. takes a lot time...I am glad it came out well..🙂 hope you guys like it!! and here is the video build if you are interested!!😀

Hi All, This was inspired by Andy J's thread. I realised that I had this in my stash. It had been abandoned due to a number of unfortunate events that put me off continuing with it. I had sprayed the body shell with Humbrol Spray Enamel black. The finish was absolutely superb. I then put the decals on. Again all went really well. Then I decided to clear coat the body to seal the decals in. Absolute disaster! There was a reaction between the enamel and the Lacquer clear! I should have realised this would happen, but we all have our moments of madness. So, it got bunged in the loft for a number of years. In that time, I lost the wheels and tyres. This was definitely looking to be a bin-job! However, I thought about giving it a bit of TLC. My initial plan was to strip the beast and re-spray it and put new decals on it. I bought the Shunko Texaco decals in preparation (I hear that they are a bit of a problem to apply!) Anyway, to cut a long story short, Andy J's thread inspired me to take a look again. I looked at the 'mess' that the lacquer had made of my beautiful paint job, and realised that it wasn't as bad as I originally thought it was. So I decided to carefully sand back the damaged lacquer areas, and try to polish it up as best I could. What could I lose? If I screwed up, I could always strip it back, re-paint and put the new decals on it. I sanded it back with assorted grades of abrasive, starting at 240 grit, to remove the peaks of the damage (very gently, by the way). I then sanded it a bit more with 1500, 2500 grit wet-n-dry, followed by some Tamiya 3000 grit lapping film. Then I used some Zero Paints polishing compound. Finally I buffed it up with some Halfords aerosol based polishing compound. (I don't think you can get it any more, but a 500ml tin lasts for almost ever!) The outcome is that The body-shell now looks perfectly acceptable, with the wrinkling effect almost entirely invisible! I also managed to source some suitable wheels and tyres. I think that the rrear wheels are a bit wider, but I'll just offset them a bit, and if you don't look to closely, you won't see the issue! So, onwards: The box. Nice dynamic image. So, The front doesn't look as bad as in this pic. I think the camera has highlighted the issue. To the naked Mk 1 eyeball, it looks OK. I have since tidied it up a bit, removed all the residues etc. I have made further progress with this, just not captured yet. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.

Hi folks, A different build from me since it's not military this time. I had originally wanted to build Revell's Series III as a more beaten up, rusty vehicle being used by some broke surfer etc, but after I finished the body, I couldn't quite convince myself to mess it up again. I also had more plans to open up the interior and show off some details, but the Revell kit doesn't have separate doors, and the glass isn't actually very clear. Overall, it's an alright kit with decent enough detail, but the fit isn't great at all - there are so many locating holes and stubs that just don't line up and the moulding for some locating pins is just awful so a lot of work was required to get the kit to line up properly and allow the body to sit on the frame correctly - basically it's a typical Revell kit and I'm hoping their SR-71 is a lot better. Anyway...photos! The body colour is MRP Signal Red with Tamiya Clear Red over it to deepen the red, and provide a gloss coat. This was then glossed again with Tamiya X-22 and polished. The roof is MRP Gun Metal with X-22, and MRP Super Silver for the roof rack. The grille is Molotow liquid chrome (also used for the mirrors) which is the best chrome I've ever used! Various details were picked out with a mix of MRP, Tamiya and Vallejo. The majority of the decals are from the kit, but the Kangaroo and Coca Cola ones are from AK (Cartograf prints though) There is some orange peel on the body, but after several attempts at getting a good even polish, I wasn't going to try and redo this again. But hey, the real ones probably weren't built all that well anyway. The kit does provide a pretty decent engine (and a terrible gearbox & transfer case), but I improved it by wiring the distributor, adding a capacitor, fusebox and additional sensor, power and battery wiring. I also replaced the plastic front end built with one from Tamiya tape, but it's not visible at all so that was pointless. Overall this is pretty good detail, but the Revell moulding let's it down somewhat. Thanks for looking!

So to give @nimrod54 's rally build some company in the GB I'm going with this Tamiya kit but modified with some aftermarket Studio27 decals (for the 1995 Swedish Rally), this particular car (17) was driven by a couple of Finns: Grönholm Marcus and Silander Voitto, however it had to retire due to gearbox issues. Plenty of Celica's did finish however - the newer 205 model (round headlights) coming in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 9th, another of this model (185 with the pop-up lights) coming in 8th. Pretty good year for Toyota you might think, however this is the season they got caught out for being naughty using illegal turbo restrictors on the new model so got a year ban for 96 and Kankkunen, Auriol and Schwarz (that's the 3rd, 4th and 9th wins in Sweden) were stripped of points in the championship in 95. The reason I went for these decals is the main sponsorship (Castrol) pattern swishes are identical to the Tamiya kit (1993 Monte Carlo) so I'll have some backups if it all goes horribly wrong when trying to get them to conform around the very curvatious body! I've also got some Reji Model snow wheels and tyres, since the kit supplied ones are rather wide looking slicks. I think I've also got some window masks somewhere for this kit, if I can dig them out. Parts shots, etc. once I get around to starting it.

Anyone who's been down in the Group Build section will have already seen this one (so apologies for any duplication). It's one which has been on sale quite cheaply recently, Revell's 1966 Hertz rent-a-racer Mustang. There's not really a lot going on here, it's just been built straight out of the box. The build thread is here: As I said, this one is built as Revell supply it, apart from some plasticard backing to the numberplates to give them a bit more body. It's not perfect, but perhaps because it's quite simple is one of my better builds. For a kit dating back over 30 years, this one is a good 'un - no real fitment issues and it builds up to a nice model with minimal extra effort. I know this is a bit of a heresey, but I'd almost go so far as to say that it's slightly better than a Tamiya kit of the same vintage, with the only challenges being the front valance (very small attachment points mean it keeps trying to slip until the glue dries) and a few minor issues with the front bumper. If you want a cheap (£16), not too complicated, kit and like the subject this one is well worth getting. It's also my first attempt with bare metal foil - I'm more impressed by the effect of the foil than I am with my execution but there's a few lessons were learned there for next time. Onto the photos, and I'll start with the glamour shot (i.e. probably the best one I managed to get of it). I like the way that this one came out That done, time for a quick tour around the car. It's was easier to see (and photograph) the engine before I fitted the bonnet in place, so this is probably the best pic I have of that: Meanwhile, the interior turned out to be easier to get a decent shot of than most of the models I've built for some reason. Unfortunately, it also turned out that for this picture I was shooting in full-on Dustarama (c) ! And finally, a shot to show how I've improved. I wanted to do this car for the Mustang challenge as my first car on returning to the hobby was the 2006 Hertz Mustang, so this means I have the pair now. It also gives me an excuse to put the two of them together. As ever, thanks for looking.

This was a nice, quick fun build. Nothing too stressful and the fit was mostly really good. A few issues that I found out right at the end was the ride height. Even after taking out the rear suspension springs the car sits too high on the back axle. The windscreen doesn't fit flush with the side windows but this can only be fixed if you take off the location pins but then you are left with two large holes on the bonnet. Basically I have left it as it is but it needs to be fixed before painting. A nice engine is included but the bonnet is either on or off. Some aftermarket bonnet hinges would have come in handy but in the end I just glued the bonnet on. I got complacent on my first coat and made a bit of a mess of it, very grainy. After sanding and repainting it came out much better,although not perfect, it doesn't now look like red sandpaper. It was a good lesson to treat my airbrush and paint with a bit of respect. Paints used. Tamiya LP21 and Mr Color 158. Both Italian Red and exactly the same shade. Interior Tamiya Rubber black with a coat of satin, which gives a nice leather look. All metallics Tamiya/Mr Hobby lacquers. Anyway, thanks for looking. I would recommend this kit. It builds into a nice model and there is plenty of scope for super detailing. Just keep your eyes on the back axle and windscreen. All the best.

My first RFI post here after enjoying the work of others since last winter.. This is the Nunu Porsche 935 K3 along with the resin fender kit from Classic Racing Resins for chassis number 13, and the Indycal decals for the Coke sponsored Bob Akin team as driven at the 1981 Le Mans race. The car did not finish the race, but I've always liked the Coke livery so decided to build it to go along with my other mostly OOB Porsche race cars. The Nunu kit is a rebox of the Beemax kit, and it went together very well - on a par with pretty much anything car kits I've built from Tamiya, Fujimi, etc.. I also used the Nunu PE kit. Only fit issues I had were the PE protective mesh for the front mounted oil cooler which I couldn't get to look quite right, and strangely the steering rack was slightly too long giving the front wheels too much toe-in so I left it out rather than try and correct it. Paint is Tamiya rattlecan pure red (TS-86), polished with Novus, and then clear coated with Johnsons Pledge floor polish over the decals. I'm pretty pleased with the results but am always open to constructive feedback, and I proactively acknowledge that my photography needs some improvement for the next RFI.

The latest model I recently finished is the iconic Ford Mustang from 1964. In my opinion it looks cool and it’s the real embodiment of youth, freedom and the American life style of the sixties. I chose to build the convertible with the roof down. I just could dream of driving the car on the highway number one from San Francisco to San Diego enjoying the Pacific sea breeze. The introduction of the Mustang created a new class of automobile known as the pony car. The Mustang’s styling, with its long hood and short deck, proved wildly popular. It was initially introduced on April 17, 1964, as a hardtop and convertible with the fastback version put on sale in August 1964.Since it was introduced four months before the normal start of the 1965 production year the earliest Mustangs are widely referred to as the 1964½ model. I built the Mustang 1964 1/2 convertible from a ten year old Revell kit which perhaps wasn't their top notch.The details were scarce inside the car and the for instance the handles etc. were only vaguely molded on the side walls. The decals were very good, though. The fit of the parts was generally ok and there were no special problems apart from the windscreen and the side windows which are in one piece. Attaching the part tightly in the window frames was a pain in the neck. I painted the bodywork with Tamiya metallic blue spray, TS-19 and the light blue interior wiyh Humbrol 89. The seats I painted with Revell 04 white and the roof and the sun shields with Humbrol 41 Ivory white.

Having made a Norwegian Starfighter, Danish registered SAS Caravelle and Swedish Saab Draken for the previous Nordic GB, I decided it was time for a subject with a Finnish leaning and thought that this would be something different to my usual aircraft builds. It will also rekindle memories of time spent trudging along forest tracks on cold November days back in the 1970's to watch Scandinavian drivers teach us how to drive on the Special Stages of the Lombard RAC Rally. Anyway, here are the box and contents photos of my subject choice, but it will be a short while before I start the build because I have to finish a few others first. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Cheers. John

One of the nostalgic cars of my youth that I have wanted to build was the sleek and elegant Citroën DS 21. Ebbro did make kits of the DS 19 and DS 21 versions but they both have been discontinued and very difficult to find on the web. However, I was very lucky to find and order an Ebbro DS 21 kit from a shop in Cornwall. The Citroën DS / ID cars are front-engined, front-wheel drive executive cars manufactured from 1955 to 1975 in various different configurations. During those years Citroën built a total of 1,455,746 examples of this car type. They were the first mass production cars equipped with self-levelling hydropneumatic suspension and disc brakes. Citroën was also the first car manufacturer to introduce directional headlights to a mass-produced car. The name DS is actually a pun in the French language. "DS" is pronounced exactly like déésse, literally meaning 'goddess' The Ebbro kit was of excellent quality and I had no problems in assembling the model. There were a lot of detailed parts and nice features like the opening bonnet and front doors. The most special feature of the kit were the directional headlights. They are connected to the turning wheels and they really turned. The only complaints I have are about the instruction leaflet. It had a lot of ambiguities and omissions. Moreover, some of the parts were not at all marked in the leaflet. I chose dark brown or marron for the colour of the bodywork. The shade was as near as I could find to "bordeaux" that Citroën home pages gave for the respective colour. The following paints were used for the model. Tamiya TS-11 Marron - bodywork Revell 88 - Floor and upholstery Humbrol 62 - Leather seats Humbrol 85 - Black parts Humbrol 3 - Gloss green parts Tamiya X-26 Clear orange - turn signals Tamiya X-27 Clear red - brake lights In all, the Ebbro kit was really a pleasure to build. Its quality was easily on the level of Tamiya car kits. The beauty and the beast of Citroën, The 2CV and DS 21

This is my second foray into car building this year after a break of several decades. There's something about Mustangs (and companies who have sales on the interwebs ) that will do that to a man. As I'm way out of my comfort zone, this will be done as far as possible OOB, although having checked the list of paints required, there will have to be a couple of 'close enough' substitutions from stock or the paint bill will be more than the kit. I've cleared the deck of other projects for the time being so I can get on with this. First up the box. I like big box and I cannot lie: Inside are lots of finely moulded parts in various colours. Not sure about the chrome, but also not sure how many of them I actually need for this build - the car on the box has no obvious shiny bits. Must remember to put a protective layer betweent the wheels and those rubber tyres too: Instructions, painting guide and decals. The left hand scheme is for a car at Goodwood Festival of Speed so I'm going with that one. Right. Just got to build and paint it now. There's always something 🙄 Andy

Hi all, spotted this on Facebook, Sywell Aviation Museum are auctioning a 1/24 Hertiage models Lancaster on their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/205252919603570/posts/4013140875481403/ It must be an incredibly rare kit and it's for an aviaiton museum - you'll need a lot of space and deep pockets though! Ben

Well as I'm away from work on holiday for a week I thought it's about time I throw my hat in the ring for this group build before the hosts start sending threatening emails 😮 I always loved the rally cars from my youth and added this to the stash a few years ago. I've also got the Tamiya version, but this one has only got 41 pieces, so shouldn't be an issue time wise. I've never built a Heller kit before, so what's the worse that can happen 🤔 It's going to be OOB and I might even try the Tamiya laquer paint I've got to see if it's as good as everyone says Couple of pics before I cut stuff off the sprues and start priming Ian

Don't go expecting this one to be completed soon, I'm not expecting it to get started in earnest until early 2022 but with the British weather I figure I need to get this painted before it gets cold (and wetter). This one is the Aoshima kit which was rereleased a couple of years ago - I'm doing the rubber bumper variety as that's what was on the roads when I was a kit. The fad of returning them to chrome didn't start until I was much older. That is an option with this kit, as has been said many times it come with the chrome and rubber bumper parts, but I'm sticking with the unfashionable rubber bumper version. One thing I'm not sticking with though is the triple wiper setup the kit comes with - to me that just looks wrong. So I did a bit of googling and eventually found out where the holes should be for the two-wiper version. The good news is that the driver's side wiper doesn't move from where the kit has it so only had to drill a hole for the passenger side. And as the wiper holes are symmetrical, I could have used the kit to get the location but instead I did it the hard way by finding a drawing of where the hole should be in the real thing and scaling it down. If anyone is wondering, that dimension is 11mm (just under to be precise, but 11mm is close enough) and it just needs to sit the same distance from the windscreen as the other wipers. The hole for the middle wiper needed drilling out anyway, so all I had to do was fill the hole for the passenger wiper. With that filled, I gave it a coat of grey primer to identify any sink marks, mould lines etc. And the good news is that there are very few. I'm not sure how Aoshima did it, but the only mould-lines I could identify are on the front and rear valances and (annoyingly) within the headlight recesses. I did wonder if they'd followed the chome belt line, but if they did I can't see it even in primer. The photo should make it obvious where I sanded it down - there's very shallow sink marks on the passenger doors which is why they got a smear of filler. And the filled wiper hole sunk so has had a second fill, but I'm hoping that will sand smooth next weekend. And that's as far as I've got at the moment, unless you count a coat of primer on the chassis and the wheels. Expect somewhat slow and erratic progress on this until I get the Jag finished. Thanks for looking.

Some time ago I decided to build Revell's VW 1500 in 1/24 scale. The nostalgic Beetle (the Finnish nickname is " the Bubble") is for me one of the most important cars I have experienced. It was the first car my dad owned, a light green 1959 Beetle in which we used to travel across Finland and the Nordic countries. At the age of eighteen I did my driving school and passed the driving exam in a Beetle. For many years thereafter I used to borrow the new Beetle of my dad. The Revell kit was of very good quality and easy to build. It contained a lot of details, the fit was excellent, the decals were good and all in all the kit was a pleasure to build. I chose to paint the bodywork of the car with Tamiya light blue spray, TS-23. In my opinion that colour suited the Beetle very well and looked quite authentic to my eyes. For the smaller details and the parts inside I used Humbrol enamels and Vallejo acrylics.

Guess I'd better declare mine here - seems that there's quite a few of these about so I'll leave out the box contents, but just to be clear this is the kit in question. Because I tend to build at a pace similar to a snail on spice this will be done straight out of the box. And as my first car build on returning to the hobby was the 2006 version, I absolutely have to build it in black with gold stripes to resemble it's cousin from four years ago (looking at the picture now I realise how much neater my more recent builds are under the camera!): But first, a small confession. Although I haven't started building anything yet, I have got some paint on the body as I tend to leave a couple of weeks between coats and could see that holding me up. It's just had the colour coat (pics at some stage over the weekend) so still decalling and clear coats to go. Hope that is ok as there is well under 25% of work done to date, but it's not a completely fresh build from 10th July.

Hi all, great to be part of a BM groupbuild again after almost a year. This time it's an ambitious punt - going to bring the Airfix 1/24 behemoth with an Aerocraft conversion set for an NF II based at Drem in 1945. It's KD127 which is quite well documented and beautifully built in smaller scale by @tonyot here: Luckily the aircraft was a brand new example and so my weathering skills (or lack thereof) will not be challenged! This will be an OOB build apart from the ignition cables and HF radio wire (there, I've said it now, so inevitably it'll end up with tons of added detail 😂) Will be starting this on Monday, hope everyone enjoys their Hellcat building 🔥🐱 Alan

This is my model of the Fiat 500F (aka FIAT Bambino). I built the cute looking Cinquecento from a 25 years old but excellent Tamiya 1/24 scale kit. The body was painted with Tamiya rattle-can yellow TS-16. I also used Vallejo acrylics and Humbrol enamels to smaller details. The Fiat 500F was a very popular small city car. It had an air cooled, two cylinder 13 hp engine giving a top speed of 85 kmh. Its length was only 3 metres. Some 3,6 million 500F's were built between 1957-1975.

Here is my Bf109E - Northern France 1941. Pretty happy with the result although with the benefit of hindsight I could have rescribed the panel lines and got the fuselage join tidier. The poor fitting engine cowlings also drove me mad so I just glued and filled in the end... It's my third build since a very lengthy hobby gap - it's a 1:72 Phantom II next. Cheers Sean

Hi All, I have had this one on the back-burner for a long time. I thought that I had already started a thread on this, but it appears that I hadn't... I have had this kit for a very long time. The engine and transmission were already made and I didn't take any pictures. I chose to paint it yellow, thus: Here is the body, floor and bonnet (hood) clear coated as well. I used Zero Paints yellow (Similar to X-8 according to the bottle). I use ZP 1K clear coat diluted further with Mr Color Levelling thinners. Takes more coats, but I get a very good finish. The bonnet suffered a disaster that nearly ended up me chucking the think in the bin,,, I had just laid down the final 'wet' coat on the bonnet and was moving it to a better place to cure, when the bugger decided to drop itself onto the floor. However, in my panic to stop this =, I grabbed the part hoping to catch it before disaster struck, planting my thumb on the newly sprayed clear coat! After much cussing and ranting, I waited until the coat was set and sanded back the coat to get a smooth finish. I re-primed the damaged bit, re-painted that re-primed bit and re-clear coated it. It's not perfect, but it doesn't show too much, except under a magnifying glass. It's not show=good, but good enough. Front suspension. engine installed. From underneath,,, As is usual for Tamiya Kits, the fit is extremely good and generally simple. Transmission and rear suspension fitted. Again, a simple installation. From the side. A bit blown out... That's where it currently stands, more to come. Thanks for looking, Alan.

Hi folks, This is my first dinosaur since I was little, I think, when I have fuzzy memories of painting Airfix dinosaurs with enamels? I picked up the Lindberg "spitter" Dilophosaurus on a trip a couple of weeks ago at a bargain price and built it pretty much straight away. It's a simple kit with nice surface details. The seams close up pretty well and most of the construction work is in restoring or sculpting lost detail across the seams and where the mould horizons mean a lack of relief. I painted it with Tamiya rattle cans decanted and airbrushed - the main colours are Medium Blue and Dark Earth from the AS range (I think?) and Chrome Oxide Yellow from the TS range. After airbrushing a basic pattern I did a lot of work with a paintbrush to refine it, both sharpening and breaking up the colour transitions. Lots of drybrushing, washes and glazes of acrylics helped define and tone the skin, and I sprayed some thin blotchy filters with Smoke, Clear Green and Clear Red before varnishing. While I did pick out some scales individually on the body, I mostly left that kind of fiddly work for the face which was more-or-less entirely repainted by brush over the airbrushed base. I made a base by sanding a slight profile into the upturned base of a fancy hipster table salt bowl and building a little relief on the top with scraps of torn up foamcard before adding stones, dried twigs and textured putty to create damp ground. Again I painted this up with acrylics and applied "moss" putty mixed from Woodland Scenics ground foam plus various kinds of foliage (Silflor, Heki, Kamizukuri) fixed with matt medium. The dino itself is pinned in place with scraps of 1/16" brass rod as I thought that paperclips weren't substantial enough at this scale. I had a scare when the tail seam cracked open on one side (not sure why) but the join was so exact that it vanished when closed up with thin CA and varnished Overall a fun little project and not bad at under two weeks from shop shelf to my cabinet shelf! Thanks for the various suggestions on the WIP thread and sorry I chickened out (ha!) from adding feathers. Cheers, Will

I was browsing the New Arrivals section of the Big H a couple of years back when I stumbled over an unusual set of figures from Master Box. There were four sets in the original group, now there's 6. They stood out because they had a very Farscape feel and I used to love that show. There's a description of the character on the back of their box and an overview of the whole story on the back of the instructions. I bookmarked them but never bought any as they were never that high a priority. A while later four of the sets turned up on Creative Models site in their 'Damaged Box' section. The original price for the single figures was £10.99 but Creative were knocking out the ones with damaged boxes at around 40% off which made them just over £6 a pop so I snapped up one of each. I'm going to try and do two of them here. Ultimatelty all six boxings are meant to combine into a vignette but since the combned cost of these two is over £10, I'll split them them a do a thread each to keep within the spirit of the GB. In the meantime, here is the first mildly battered box. Jaqueline is the main protaganist of the story - it was something she stole that got the Space Marines Corp involved: The parts, Jacqueline comes with her own bar stool and table. A look with my optivisor suggests there's some lovely detail, just hope I can do it justice: The instructions/painting guide. There's a list of suggested Vallejo paints on the back of each box that the codes refer to You probably can't see it in these pics, but part A3 has a neat bow moulded in, and since her hair it hangs over her shoulder, it will have to painted as a black velvet band Andy

This is my model of the iconic Austin Mini Cooper S. The Tamiya 1/24 scale kit is truly an oldie and has long ago been discontinued. Inside the kit there was the marking 1983. I was able to order mine on the net. The quality and the fit of the parts was good but not of the current Tamiya level. To emphasize the British origin of the car I asked my friend to print the Union Jack decal for the roof. I sprayed the red areas with Tamiya TS-8 Italian red. Inside the car I painted the seats and other parts with Humbrol and Vallejo colours and the floor was covered with dark red flock. The widow frames and other chrome coloured areas I modelled from Bare-Metal foil. In the engine compartment I added some wiring to make it look a bit busier. One snafu, of course happened during the construction. There was a nice metal transfer of the brand "Austin Cooper S" to be attached to the trunk. Well, in about forty years the glue had weakened so much that the letters didn't stick to the surface. When trying to detach the transfers from the tape I managed to ruin the "Austin". As I was to succeed with the 1 mm sized "S" it suddenly skyrocketed to outer space and was sucked in to the black hole of lost parts. So the Cooper one was the only transfer that I managed to get out and it sits now on the trunk. It's not correct but what can you do!