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    • Mike

      Switched Identities   18/06/17

      If you are still having problems logging in and remaining under your own username following the DDoS attack last week, you need to log off, clear your browser's cache, and restart your browser to ensure you clear all the old files from your temporary area.  Then you should be sorted.

Plastic Bonsai

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About Plastic Bonsai

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  1. Fightersweep, Top post. I'd go back to the seventies any day and see John Noakes again. Not a great ending but a lot worth remembering.
  2. My intro to Eric Bogle and my favourites. Two moving songs.
  3. AIrfix 1/48 Lynx, 1/72 Sea King, Italeri Wessex 1/48th? !/48 Hawk and 1/32 Kinetic Hawk 100 - though Revell's molding quality makes it a better model. The Hunter kit has the parts breakdown to do a two seater that Fisher is now exploiting. Not something to get overly concerned but I just though they missed a trick on these occasions. That being said if they didn't do two seater versions of the Lightning, Harrier or Jaguar (or provide S1 options for a Buccaneer) in 1/32 I would forgive them even that!
  4. These days there is not a lot wrong with the quality and diverse subject matter of the Revell of Germany designed models and the price is often very good indeed. It baffles me though that many get discounted quickly - usually the larger kits - so that even when I feel an impulse buy come over me for a Revell kit I think that will be cheaper soon enough. I'm hoping that won't discourage them from doing some more 1/32 cold war jets. They do some odd things though: The extra sprue for the Lynx HMA8 and the lack of rivets and rotor fold otions that would enable space for more on the shelf, no dropped flaps for the Hawk and no 2 seater Hunter.
  5. 1. 1/48 Lightning F1/F3 2. Vulcan 3. 1/48th Buccaneer because it was 4. HMS Belfast a remarkable step up in the quality of their ship models. 5. Cromwell tank because of the way they did the tracks,
  6. That instantly came to mind as I read it but I had to think which shop it was. Pretty certain it was the newsagents in the Market Place known as Parry's. They had the 1/48th and 1/32 Matchbox kits just after they came out.
  7. In the 70's in Hornsea there was Woodcraft(Airfix) and Jenners(Frog) and Matchbox at several newsagents. In Hull the Ferensway Model Shop with it's odd smell of mushrooms and Toymaster? opposite Woolies both with completed models in their windows which were always inspiring. A real treat was to go to a dark dingy shop in Bar Street in Scarborough which was floor to very high ceiling Revell, Aurora, Monogram and Tamiya.
  8. In no particular order: Buccaneer Jaguar Lightning F4K/M Harrier GR1/3 All with RAFG connections. I know HK are promising a 1/32 F-4K/M but Revell's will be more affordable..
  9. Oh my! No Yavin hangar though?
  10. Anyone remember The Wilde Alliance in the late 70's with John Stride and (more importantly) Julia Foster? A husband and wife amateur detectives. based around York. John Stride's character was into model making and when he said he was stopping off at a model shop to get some paints some asked if he had children which got a be-wildered look back. Had one episode with a Vulcan doing an overshoot.
  11. Well the molds won't be destroyed - they can always return,... like the Basset. All Airfix can do is keep refreshing what they have. Their starter kits are not bad though the paints can be a bit disappointing and too easy to spill everywhere but might get more young'un's into the hobby. frequently discounted too. There were a few in Hobbycraft: £7.50 for a Harrier starter kit - £20 for the Marine Corps version. If I could be a little picky some of them are a bit fiddly for starter models - the Matchbox ones were excellent for that. I don't see major retailers stocking kits in general though I see a few stores selling some very dodgy Chinese knock offs. Keep the boxes looking classy and get into some more retailers and get a bit more visibility. More schemes and a later mark for the A-4 please! Still think a 60's Thunderbird 2 would sell though.
  12. The printer has a 15cm cube area to print in but so far it has issues getting above about 10cms before something happens - when I am out of the room of course. That nosecone is 11cms. I think the reel fouls the drive at height and I'm going to do a stand alone reel holder. Fortunately the printer preparing code lets me sink components through the table so I can finish such interrupted prints. I believe it is possible to extend the table laterally so longer pieces can be done but it does take a long time to print. There should be no reason why the whole printer concept cannot be scaled up. You just need the patience to print it out. It does do detail but how much and how well I have yet to find out. i'll be doing some test pieces but if you have any test subjects I'm willing to try them for you. I think it can be relied upon to do the basic shapes well but you would have to see to the surface finish and detailing yourself. In 1/35 it might do oil drums and crates etc but not small delicate stuff like sign posts etc. Maybe a concrete bunker building? Currently layer thickness is 0.1cm and it is visible as you can see in the photos. You can get a smoother finish with ABS - like Lego plastic but it smells bad and the smooth finish involves acetone fumes so not for the home. Another trick is to cast in aluminium from PLA master using the lost wax process. It sort of makes you think "Oooo!" and then "Erm,,,," Due to the warping the model bits I have done so far will need some filling but I have many many years of doing that. I have enjoyed messing with it and it's cool to make something and get it printed but then find it's wrong and doing it again. i made a case for a Raspberry Pi for a colleague over Christmas and the stress was very high at times. I can see this getting better and more practical and in the end model work may loose it's value when it can be just printed out just like music, films, books etc.
  13. Actually I acquired one cheaply just before Christmas off a colleague. It was a steal as he's done all the setting up. I've only printed in PLA and it produces stuff slowly with a finish that should sand and paint up OK. I charged in and started printing out parts for a model before I realized some parts were too big for the printer bit I'm finding ways to trim them down. It's a slow process to fettle the parts and get them printed but I've started so I'll finish. I can knock up simple shapes myself to print out - there are several free CAD and mesh modelling programs out there which can generate wavefront .obj files which it will accept.I think it can generate accurate shapes but the finish needs working on and I haven't tried any surface detailing yet. It was originally thought that you didn't need a heated base plate to print in PLA but it does distort very easily if you haven't. I have one coming but it's in the clutches of Parcel Farce and they are to issue me with a customs ransom note somehow soon.
  14. Not a problem as far as I'm concerned! B-25 is a nice choice, many air forces and the Doolittle anniversary next year. A 1/48th model of the Grob Tutor would be nice too.