tank152

Just noticed this one. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/KqDfZ8KLMWstiykP/ High back Mk XIV, hopefully 🙏

If you go back and re read that post you'll see that the poster never mentioned the prop tips would be finished in bare metal! He said scraped back to bare metal in other words worn back to it. Looking at the frontal view it certainly looks very worn. The blade tip just about the ground looks dark not dissimilar to the outer roundel.. Whilst it is blindingly obvious the spinner is wrong in the profile the outer ring on the fuselage roundel isn't. I also suggest the very vast majority of modellers who purchase that decal sheet won't give a monkey's if either are wrong. 😏

Thats a bit special. 👌

It's even riveted, superb. Will definitely be up for one of those. 👍🏻👍🏻

Kagero Top Drawings https://shop.kagero.pl/en/the-german-night-fighter-heinkel-he-219-uhu.html

Don't overlook the 2 volumes of D-Day Then and Now. Take a look here to get an idea what's in them.

Available from the 24th of this month.

My preference is to prime before riveting and afterwards use a 4000 sanding sponge. To mark the lines out I use this. https://www.premiumhobbies.co.uk/measuring/hiq-parts-mass-tool-8-pieces I just cut a strip off and place on my model the grids are in .5mm so are ideal for marking out rivet line spacings. I then draw the lines in using a pencil and piece of flexible Tamiya masking tape. I also use Rosie Riveter tools. I very rarely redo them all, once is enough!

Done! Thanks for bringing that to my attention Mike, I never realised, sorry for any offence caused.

Email Eduard and tell them about the canopies, they'll probably want a photo of them. Their after sales is second to none. They'll replace them for you.

On this the 80th Anniversary I thought I share some photos I took when I visited a few years back. The memorial that straggles the hull of the USS Arizona. The entrance. All the names of the men who lost their life, most still in the wreck. The mooring buoy of the Arizona. The above 2 photos show parts of the deck visible just under the surface. Looking down Battleship Row, again part of the hull is visible. The mooring buoy of USS Vestal, a repair ship that was moored outboard of the USS Arizona.

You forgot to add the bits used from the salvaged B-24!

The difference is people such as David Brown have use of the actual print and not something that has been shared countless times over the Internet each time of which would have altered the tones etc. Discussion such as this is fun and nothing else i'm afraid. As someone who has worked in the steel industry all my life I can assure you that by varying the angle of what you take the photo the same piece of steel can be made to look polar opposites. Also the grain in a sheet of steel would also make the sheen look completely different if it was at 90° to another sheet. So you could have 2 panels cut from the same sheet and look completely different to each other when photographed. That is my take when you see photos of wing under surfaces.

The Lionoil coating is just guess work. The patterns etc mist likely tricks of light etc. I'll refrain from using the swoosh as before long it'll be used as if it's an official term. We all know how these things get out of hand as time goes on on-line All of this reminds me of the nonsense of German Armour being sent out in red primer towards the end of the war. This is fine if taken in the context of "What If" and for a bit of fun.

Personally I think you're just seeing what you want to see. A bit like the NMF finished Fw190's people are obsessed with, which is a perfect example. All more than likely due to tricks of light.

"Enjoy" I most definitely did. I love the tonal variations as I did on you Ki-100.

You took the words right out of my mouth.👍🏻 I can see me taking a few of those boxings "if" they become reality.

It's a shame we can no longer post paint, i'll certainly have a un opened bottle of the original H58, i'd have gladly given it you.

In my opinion MRP are far better than Aqueous, which like yourself I used to use so all isn't lost. It isn't the end of the world about H58, just annoying. Don't forget to try out Hataka Orange line or AK Real Colors.

Please tell me you're not being serious here and just matching something on their web site, and not the actual paint?

From what i've read, the AK Real Colors scrub up pretty good, so they're another option. No idea about their acrylics, life's to short to use those, plus even though i'm not a colour Nazi water based paints whatever make tend to be a country mile off. The release of the MRP paints are imminent. Here's the range of colours. Obviously nothing can be read to much from screenshots.

I follow very few builds on here anymore but I have your's and it's been very enjoyable. Excellent result and modelling.

I've been following a few builds of Tora Tora Tora on both Modelforum and Facebook all built to a very high standard. Not once has anyone pointed out that the colours are wrong. They've all been painted with both Mr Color and Tamiya. As has been mentioned earlier in this thread MRP are about to release a batch of Japanese colours of which apparently Nick Milman has had a hand in their development.

Mr Color has gone the same way. 🤬 Can you get hold of AK Real Color or Hataka Orange Line? They're both very good paints, i've got the RC Interior Green and that looks fine.