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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Spitfire addict

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About Spitfire addict

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  1. Exactly why I want to do a single color scheme, the 4 color scheme may be a bit beyond my painting skill level, especially if I want to create any kind of scale effect. Although you can't beat that scheme with the red surround around the stars and bars. Weren't some of the PBY Privateers painted in a similar fashion, but with an almost turquoise blue instead of the intermediate blue? I digress. I really like that nice glossy dark blue, really pretty with the white decals. As an aside, just finished McCampbell's Heroes, a great book about the Fabled Fifteen F6F pilots who flew from the USS ESSEX, so kind of excited to build a glossy blue Hellcat. Thanks again Troy.
  2. Thanks Troy, I will go with the best guesstimate. As an aside, did the navy ever use an almost medium blue color after the war? I have seen warbirds painted in this very bright blue color and was not sure if this is a made up blue or legitimate. While I am at it, is the blue-grey that was used in late 1942 the same as intermediate blue used on the early war fighters and bombers? I thought it would be fun to do an early Hellcat -3. Thanks again! Cheers
  3. I just cut down the tail ring on a British bomb from an ICM Spitfire, just sliced off a really thin piece and glued it on my A-20. It's worth a whack. Good luck on that. Cheers
  4. Hello Gents, The next kit up to bat is a 1/48 F6F-5 Hellcat that would have flown early 1945. Now the question is an overall dark non-specular blue, or glossy sea blue? Or, a glossy non-spec blue? Any help on this would be great. I haven't built a legit Hellcat, last one was an old Monogram "Toycat" that I rattle canned non-spec dark blue. I spent the money on a nice Eduard kit and its up next. Cheers
  5. Thanks guys, and a special thanks to Gerry who went above and beyond (as many of my Britmodeller compatriots often do) with the great pictures. I have an A5M that is in the stack so the info helps there too. I feel safe going with the setup pictured, now I just have to keep from gluing my fingers to the seat whilst I apply the belts! Now that I think of it it makes sense that naval aircraft would have the shoulder belt because of arrested carrier landings, which still doesn't explain the US Navy's lack of a shoulder harness on the early Wildcats, but I digress. I have not seen shoulder harnesses on the IJAAF fighter aircraft, perhaps the Japanese Army Airforce didn't see the need? Anyway, thanks again guys, all the best. Cheers
  6. Thanks Chuck, it seems the IJAAF aircraft tended to have the lap belts, which Fine Molds makes replicas for the Tony and Oscar. Still not positive on the bombers though. Eduard makes a set for fighters which is a mix of lap belts and shoulder harness. But, why just lap belts for some aircraft? They didn't feel they needed parachutes for their pilots either early on. Cheers
  7. As I ponder the application of the dreaded PE seat belts to my Zero, I was wondering which aircraft, or aircraft manufacturers e.g. Mitsubishi, Nakajima, Kawanishi, et al, applied particular set ups for their seats. The question mostly is in regard to lap belts vs lap and shoulder harness on mainstream Japanese fighters. I have noticed that for some Japanese aircraft a single belt across the chest was combined with the lap belts. Was this added after too many pilots whacked their forehead on the gun sights as was the case with the early US Navy Wildcats? There is probably a thread on this subject a mile long, but due to my technical ineptitude I couldn't find it. If anyone can link it my good friend Troy will probably find it for me. Otherwise, any help on this would be great. Cheers
  8. Just clip it. I have had to do that with numerous models and not messed it up. Remember the old saying..."measure twice, cut once" this is about the safest "surgery" you can do. Because the part is already in place makes cutting the shaft with an Exacto #11 can be pretty difficult, so cut it with a sprue sniper then lightly sand the tip making a slight bevel at the tip so the prop slides on without problem. The other option is to use very small, thin pair of needle nosed pliers to hold and stabilize the shaft against the bulkhead whilst cutting with a razor saw or clipping with the sprue cutter. I have used bothe these methods, and out of hundreds of models built over my lifetime have only messed up once (I can't even remember what kit it was) so the prognosis for your situation looks good? The main concern next to cutting the shaft to the desired length is the stability of your nicely done model, you don't want to ham fist it and create damage and heartbreak. It is time to act Doctor L., so go forward with confidence. And good luck. Cheers
  9. I have a question regarding Zero canopies. Was the canopy used on the Model 21 and 22 the same? Did the canopy change for the Type 52 and subsequent types? Or, were the canopies one size fits all? As an aside, which models did not have the antennae? On that one I have some information regarding the removal of the antennae on an individual basis, but need to know if there was any factory mandated discontinuation of antennae placement. Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers
  10. Awesome photos, especially the early model Lancs. The last great generation. Cheers
  11. I would go with the zinc chromate for the landing gear because it makes the most sense, especially since many components were painted separately. Why would they choose a MAP color when they need to spray that particular part in a corrosion resistant paint? I have seen plenty of pics where aluminum paint was applies to the whole landing gear structure, then others in zinc chromate/amber green. Then again, anything is possible, the black and white picture guessing game. Too bad we can't get official documentation from Brewester, but once again, another historical ambiguity. You would think we would accept all these ambiguities at face value, but the OCD in us /we modelers won't let us will it? Still, I love these discussions, always stimulating. Cheers
  12. Such a shame, the Jill is a sleek and beautiful aircraft, not to mention the rugged beauty of the Ki-84. The Glenview aircraft seemed to have been pretty well cared for, but of course, it hadn't been too long since the war ended when these aircraft were displayed. At least someone has it sheltered but I doubt I will see it on display in my lifetime. We air show goers and modellers seem to be very eurocentric in our outlook regarding WWII aircraft, ignoring the significance of Japan's capable aircraft, that's a bit of a shame too. I think many do not realize that prior to 1943 the Zero was the supreme air superiority fighter, yet it is always rated below fighters like the Wildcat and Hurricane, not to mention the Spitfire. I don't think the Spitfire fared very well over Darwin in 1942 from all accounts. Thanks again Nick, you are our #1 source for intel on the subject of Japanese aircraft, as well as all things with a pigment, keep up the invaluable work. Cheers
  13. I was just perusing pictures of the B6N Tenzan and saw a beautiful specimen that was part of a display at Glenview NAS after the war. I also saw a few other unique aircraft like the Ki-84 and Arado 196 seaplane. Anybody know what happened to these aircraft? Maybe at the Smithsonian rotting away in a warehouse? Cheers
  14. I wonder if they were used by coastal command, and if not, how and where they were used tactically?
  15. Well, if you want to hear from an old guy who has pretty much been building consistently since 1964 I can tell you that I have only blown four or five kits to the point that I couldn't stand them.You will find that the bi-planes can really test ones patience, and I really respect the WWI guys for their patience and dedication.A lot of it depends on how steep the learning curve and how high your expectations are for your build juxtaposed with your ability. Modeling can be very frustrating, for instance, the time as a youngster that I was so frustrated with an old Revell Cr 32, (or was it 42?) that it somehow took flight and crashed against the wall. I only did that once and felt quite immature and stupid for my actions. Anyway, what to do with builds that go nowhere? I have found, since my unauthorized flight with the CR, that once you have passed the stage where you keep your gluey finger tips off the clear parts, that botched paint jobs could be very frustrating. My earliest kits were hand painted, but many times looked pretty good because I used an expensive fox hair (or some such animal) brush, but because of the introduction of the airbrush, which I slowly transitioned to (I'm no Luddite!) my models started looking better.. In most cases of botched model syndrome I was able to spray over the paint job with primer and start over again. The trick is not to gob on the paint so thick (very common with rattle can spray jobs) and that requires an airbrush, and a lot of practice with it, which brings me to another point. The kits you are not happy with make excellent airbrush practice pieces. The other factor to address is the fact that models are, and have been getting a bit pricey, just chucking them in the trash is not an easy option. Once again, a painting test bed is a good option, then when you are through, and the models are in just acceptable enough shape, go to the local children's hospital, especially the pediatric cancer ward, and see if there are any youngsters who would have their day made a bit brighter with a nice model airplane. They aren't likely to be picky like us and more than likely to think that the airplane that you gave them was the hottest thing since sliced bread! Just an idea. Hope this helps, and the best of luck with your journey through the world of building little plastic airplanes! Cheers