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Navy Bird

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Everything posted by Navy Bird

  1. For my next project I've chosen the English Electric Canberra PR.9, specifically XH134 in her retirement scheme (not the operational scheme shown on the Airfix box). It's a lovely scheme designed by Ashley Keates of RAF Marham. I found a bunch of stuff in my stash that I can use for this project, and I suspect this will end up being another bit of a kitbash. Let's have a look at the inventory - first, I have the Airfix kit, one of the early new tooling efforts from Hornby. Unfortunately, it's not one of their best. In addition to the overdone panel lines, the blend of the tail into the fuselage is misshapen, and the rudder is off as well. Nevertheless, it may be the basis for this build. On the aftermarket side, I have a beautiful cockpit and open nose from Pavla, highly detailed wheel wells from Pavla, a very nice tyre set from CMK, some Eduard colour photoetch, flaps from CMK, and a proper rudder from SBS. I also have some photoetch and resin flaps from Heritage (not shown) so I'll have to figure out which set I like. The Pavla cockpit looks quite nice, but I think the detail painting might be a bit of a chore! And the Pavla wheel wells and doors are considerably more detailed than what comes with the Airfix kit. Here is XH134 in her retirement scheme, isn't she a beauty? Model Alliance provide these markings, although I was a bit flummoxed after paying full price for an aftermarket decal sheet and finding only these two small bits in the package. Stencils and other markings will need to come from the kit. Now, here is where my little dilemma comes in. I've also got this kit in the stash: Comparing the two kits, I would say that the Xtrakit model (which appears to have been moulded by Sword) has much nicer surface detail, but has no vortex generators on the wings (really - they're supplied as decals) and a suspect cockpit opening (at least it's very different than Airfix). However, the tail and rudder seem to be reasonably good. I'm going to take some time and see if the aftermarket stuff will fit the Xtrakit model. If it does, then I have to decide if I like decals instead of actual three dimensional vortex generators. I suspect I won't, but I really prefer the other surface detail on the Xtrakit offering compared to the Airfix kit. Ugh - a man who has one watch knows what time it is. A man who has two is never quite sure. To be honest, I know next to nothing about the Canberra. I'm hoping that @canberra kid will stop by and make sure I stay on the righteous path. He may be able to tell me some things about these two kits that will guide my decisions. Cheers, Bill
  2. Thanks, John. All this helps a lot. Working on those wingtips... Are the lights on the leading edge clear, and the red/green lights those on the wingtip? Cheers, Bill
  3. There are a couple of photo essays at www.hotrod.com about that car. Interesting photos of the Rat Fink himself building it. He had a method of using plaster to build the body shape, and then put Fiberglas over the top. Once the Fiberglas had cured, he knocked the plaster out. Quite a character. I built all that stuff when I was a kid. On his website it says that Revell paid him one cent for each model sold. In 1963 they paid him $32,000 - that's over three million model kits sold in that year alone. Amazing. Cheers, Bill
  4. So when are you going to build that Big Daddy Roth contraption in the lower right corner? I want to see that WIP - complete with spark plug wires, blower belt, brake lines, etc. And some Alclad Chrome on those moonies! Cheers, Bill
  5. Hi mates! Last August, I started a project for a "quick build" of the 1:72 Special Hobby kit of the Fairey Firefly FR.1. Naively I let my fellow Britmodellers talk me into doing a "dual build" since I also had the Special Hobby kit of the TT.4 in my stash. And then the final elbow - I succumbed to numerous requests to fold the wings on the TT.4. Dementia had finally shown its face. So here we are, six months later and the kits are finally done. You can read the whole sordid work in progress thread here. (It's really not so bad!) I don't think I need to provide a short history of the Firefly. The fine Britmodellers on this forum are keenly aware of their aviation heritage and the important role their aircraft have played throughout the years. Special thanks to Steve Long (NAVY870), our friend from Australia, for his incredible help during this build. No matter how silly my questions were, he always had the answer. Of course, he lives with a real Firefly TT. As usual here is my Executive Summary: Project: Fairey Firefly FR.1 and TT.4 Kit: Special Hobby Fairey Firefly FR.Mk.1 (kit no. 72195) and Fairey Firefly TT.Mk.4 (kit no. 72066) Scale: 1:72 (the only scale that matters) Decals: From the kits, Fairey Firefly FR.1, MB464/272-Y, 837 Squadron FAA, HMS Glory 1945, Fairey Firefly TT.4, VG974/501-TD, 700 Squadron FAA, RNAS Ford, 1955 Resin: Extensive cockpit and wheel well resin components included with the kits; Barracuda Studios Firefly Early Main Wheels (72137) and British 4-Slot 32 inch Main Wheels - Block Tread (72222) Photoetch: In addition to the frets included with the kits, the Marabu Designs British landing lights (72002) were used Canopy Masks: Montex set (72108) Paint: Colourcoats BS 640 Extra Dark Sea Grey, BS 634 Dark Slate Grey; Gunze H364 Interior Grey Green (my own custom counterfeit recipe), H74 Sky Type S, H77 Tire Black, H90 Clear Red, H94 Clear Green, H95 Smoke Gray; Testors 2072 RLM 04 Gelb; Floquil 110100 Old Silver; Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black; Alclad 125 High Speed Silver, 302 Grey Primer, 314 Klear Kote Flat Weathering: Pastel chalks; Prismacolor Silver Pencil Improvements/Corrections/Modifications The FR.1 was built essentially out-of-the-box, the only additions being the aerial wire, IFF antenna, and the landing and navigation lights (made from a clear plastic fork). Most of the extra work was done on the TT.4 as follows: Carburettor intake under engine cowling was left out of Special Hobby kit, so one was scratch built by scabbing formed styrene on the lower fuselage and blending it into the cowling Separated the wings for folding - since the full span Fairey-Youngman flaps fold with the outer wings this made for some interesting cutting patterns All exposed inner wing details were scratch built All wing fold mechanism details were scratch built Wing jury struts made from 0.025" styrene rod Inner fuselage structure and associated details (where the Fairey-Youngman flaps attach to the center fuselage) were scratch built Radiator inlet vanes were replaced with 0.015" styrene Navigation lights were scratch built and added to each wing, made with clear plastic silverware Landing light was scratch built from clear plastic silverware and photoetch reflectors from Marabu Design Rear view mirror and housing added to top of outer port wing Cables on horizontal and vertical tail, to prevent drogue chute from interfering with flight surfaces, made from 0.005" Nitinol wire Cable tie-down brackets on end of horizontal tails made from copper wire VHF whip antenna made from 0.005" Nitinol wire Added photoetch catapult hooks Elapsed time: 6 months! A fair bit longer than anticipated. At this rate, my stash will be exhausted in 2157. At 13:30. How about some photos? First, a family portrait. As can be seen in the following photos, the folded wings are aligned with each other and are at the same height: To achieve this, I designed, built, and used a high precision alignment and gluing jig constructed from the highest technology aerospace alloys: A splendid time was had by all! Cheers, Bill
  6. Hi mates, Having just finished one folded wing project (my Fairey Firefly TT.4), and having not learned any lessons by doing so, I decided to jump head first into another! And in resin to boot! This time it's the de Havilland Sea Venom in fabulous 1:72 scale. The build consisted of the basic Sea Venom kit, plus the optional folding wing set, both from those master craftsmen in the Czech Republic, CMR. I love CMR kits - the level of detail is astounding. This project is a tribute to Steve Long (NAVY870) from the Camden Museum of Aviation in Australia. Steve was such a big help with my Firefly build, that I wanted to build a model of an aircraft that he restored, Sea Venom WZ895. He was a huge help on the build, making sure I had all of WZ895's configuration correct. I think I got it all! Project: Royal Australian Navy de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.53 Kits: Czech Master Resin (CMR) de Havilland Sea Venom FAW.21/22 & FAW.53 (kit number 231); Folding Wings Set (kit number DS7207) Scale: 1:72 (Her Majesty's Own Scale) Decals: From the kit, representing WZ895, 870-NW, No. 724 Squadron RAN, Naval Air Station Nowra, Summer 1959 Photoetch: Included with the kit, primarily for the cockpit, control surfaces, antennae, windscreen wiper, wing fences, etc. Vacuform: Two copies included with the kit, and old Fumble Thumbs needed them both! The canopy is supplied as one piece, and must be cut into three sections to be displayed open Paint: Gunze H333 Extra Dark Sea Grey, H331 Dark Sea Grey, H74 Sky, H11 Flat White, H12 Flat Black, H77 Tyre Black, H322 Phthalo Cyanine Blue, H329 Yellow FS13538; Alclad 101 Aluminum, 115 Stainless Steel, 314 Klear Kote Flat, and a bunch I forgot about. Weathering: Post shading to simulate paint fading and wear, and the assorted stains and hydraulic fluid/oil streaks. I applied a grey wash to the Sky underside, and a black wash to the EDSG topside. Improvements/Corrections This was built pretty much out of the box, the only things I added were: Canopy shades Whip aerials (two on the rear canopy and one under the starboard boom) Longer jury struts (the kit supplied struts were too short for proper alignment of the wings when folded) Build thread: Link Now, let's see some photos! Enjoy! Perhaps the most difficult part of the build was getting the alignment of the wings correct. They're not perfect, but I think they're pretty close! I couldn't figure out how to hold the model upside down to take some photos of the underside once the folded wings were on, but I do have these in-process shots before they were added. I wasn't completely finished with the weathering, etc. but I think you can get the idea. And a couple of family shots: Cheers, Bill
  7. Excellent! I knew you'd have the answer. Basically just a round, flat disc painted white by the looks of it. I think the hole in the Airfix fuselage is about the same size - rather large hole for its intended purpose (capturing the peg from the Omega box). That's a nice photo you posted that shows the satellite navigation system. Along the spine there are blade antennae (2), two white discs, and maybe two lights. Not everything is on axis - is it the light (?) by the aft blade antenna offset? That had to be one major rock n roll speaker if it needed the nose gear from a Canberra to support it! Marshall stack indeed... Cheers, Bill
  8. Could be worse - you could be working on a Sea Fury. Cheers, Bill
  9. You gotta fold da wings! Instructions here. Cheers, Bill
  10. Excellent reference material, as always gentlemen. Thank you all! As we all know, aircraft go through a dizzying amount of modifications during their service life, and I think it was mentioned earlier that trying to keep up with all of the changes the Canberra went through is nigh impossible. I think the best answer to any question I ask is "Well, it depends..." Since I'm modelling XH134 in her retirement scheme, I've been trying to focus mostly on photos of her if they're available. I was just going through the collection again, and I came across this photo of her in 2004 at Kemble: The flap and flap bay both look white to me. I believe that XH134 got a fresh paint job for the retirement (not sure when that happened though) - maybe white was used for the flap at this time? Speculation...but it appears that all parts of the flap are the same colour, save the strip of Hemp. While we're looking at that photo, look on top of the spine to the left of the blade antenna, but not quite to the roundel. See the tiny bump? This is where that small box-like structure appears on some Canberras. Airfix provide this part, but it's obviously not there on XH134 at this time. In its place is what appears to be a round plate that covers the box's attachment point. It looks to be painted white in top views. Am I interpreting this correctly? Today I will try to figure out a way to make the wingtip mods and the MDC for the navigator's hatch. Cheers, Bill
  11. Aha! Interesting. Portion of the nose gear is shared with a Shackleton - who would have thought? So there is a reason why it is grey and the others white! I thought my question was silly. Let's make sure I have it right, the wheel wells, landing gear doors (inside), main gear legs, main gear hubs, nose gear fenders, and inside the flaps are white. Nose gear strut is grey. Would it be Light Admiralty Grey, like on the Buccaneers? Nose gear hub looks silver in some photos, grey in others. (Are the nose wheels shared with the Shack, too, or just the leg? This would be the Shack's tail wheel?) Does part of the main gear door cover a portion of the main gear leg? Your photo has me wondering - this could be added to the Airfix part with card stock. Wing walkways look like solid yellow stripes, but Xtrakit provide solid pink/striped yellow lines in close proximity. Airfix provide nothing. Hmm... Last for this post, is there a raised edge around the escape hatch for the navigator? Or maybe the hatch panel sets slightly proud of the surface? Airfix have nothing at all in this area, Xtrakit have a raised edge. Hard to tell from the photos exactly what is there. I think I'll go off to John's site and poke around some more. Cheers, Bill PS. Great walkaround photos, James! Thanks for taking the time to upload those.
  12. Thanks for all of that, mates! Even the diversion into Mary Jane land... Some background. First, this is a photo of the nose gear of XH134 in her retirement scheme. I just can't see that gear leg being white. Here is a different aircraft, but a closer photo. I need more convincing that the nose gear leg is white. The main gear legs in the photos above provided by @71chally do indeed look white. Could they be white and the nose gear grey? I even found a thread here on BM where @canberra kid speculates that the nose gear for a particular aircraft might be grey: Next, about the underside colour. Airfix says to use Humbrol 166 for this camouflage scheme. Humbrol 166 is Light Aircraft Grey. Xtrakit says to use Xtracrylix X015 which is Light Aircraft Grey. Model Alliance, in the instructions for the decals of the retirement scheme states that the underside is BS381C:627 Light Aircraft Grey and then proceeds to list several model paints including those I just mentioned. When Brett Green built the Xtrakit PR.9 on Hyperscale, he painted the underside Light Aircraft Grey. I'm detecting a pattern. Model Alliance says that the vertical tail for this scheme is Medium Sea Grey BS381C:637. Using the colour server at the link I referenced above, Medium Sea Grey is a darker colour than Light Aircraft Grey. Which is just what we see in this photo - the tail is darker than the underside. I've collected a lot of photos of XH134 in her retirement scheme, and a lot of them have been graciously sent to me by fellow Britmodellers. I know all about the problems of trying to determine a colour based on photographs - but the underside colour doesn't look like Medium Sea Grey to me. It doesn't have any bit of blue in it. It's a very neutral grey. However, I think that Medium Sea Grey is seen on the underside of some PR.9 aircraft in the Grey/Green camouflage scheme. Could this be the source of some confusion? Here is Hemp and Medium Sea Grey from the colour server: This is Hemp and Light Aircraft Grey: Now, be honest. Which one looks more like the fuselage colour and the underside in the above photo? And which one looks like the fuselage and the vertical fin? Not to be disrespectful, but I'm not buying that the underside of Hemp aircraft is Medium Sea Grey. I believe it's Light Aircraft Grey. I'll keep believing that until someone shows me the order from MOD or RAF etc. that directs the painting of PR.9 aircraft in Hemp/MSG. And then I probably still won't believe it because the photos don't support it. Finally, about that Hemp stuff. My bottle of good old Gunze Sangyo GSI Creos Mr. Color Mr. Hobby Aqueous Hobby Color H336 says on the label BS4800/10B21 Hemp. That particular colour has, apparently, been renamed Lizard Grey by Keith's PC Brigade. Somehow, somewhere this has changed to BS381C:389 Camouflage Beige. These two colours are very close to one another, but they don't seem to be identical matches. Why the change? I'm just curious... OK, OK, now I'll go back to work. Cheers, Bill
  13. I'm guessing from photos of XH134 that her wheel hubs are silver, landing gear struts are Light Admiralty Grey, while the landing gear doors and wheel wells look like the underside colour of Light Aircraft Grey. Top is Hemp, no, wait, we can't call it that - too close to well, you know, and we wouldn't want any jokes about that now would we? Let's just call it BS4800/10B21 Lizard Grey. Really, that's what it says at http://www.e-paint.co.uk/Lab_values.asp. I kinda thought it was BS381C/389 Camouflage Beige, but I like that Lizard thing better! How far off am I? The tailplanes have been mounted to the fuselage using the @71chally designated "easy way out." What can I say? I'm lazy. The tailplane root blend into the fuselage still needs some work. Not quite happy with it yet. It already looks miles ahead of what Airfix moulded. What on earth were they thinking? Making this modification is quite easy, but results in tailplanes that don't have a solid way to align them to set the dihedral. I made a simple template from cardboard to set the dihedral angle. Since this angle is measured through the middle of the tailplanes (pretty much the seam line of the top and bottom halves) compared to horizontal (or vertical as I chose) I compensated the angle of the template to take the taper of the tailplane and fin into account. Hey, low tech, but it works. The tailplane span, across the elevator hinge line, came out to 101 mm, not far off the proper value of 102 mm. I don't know, but methinks she be starting to look like an aeroplane. Cheers, Bill
  14. Well, I certainly can't discourage you there. Navy is my first name after all! Cheers, Bill
  15. Well, not so much to report but I have been having fun inhaling Mr. Surfacer fumes, watching it dry, sanding it off, rinse and repeat. The nastiest panel lines (such as the Continental Divide which runs horizontally down the upper section of both port and starboard fuselages) got two doses of Surfacer 500, others one dose, and still others one dose of Surfacer 1000. All depending on how bad I thought they were. Some I may even leave alone - like the outer wing sections. We'll see. If I could copy the look of the aft end all over the bird, she could be part of a diorama. You know, a forlorn Canberra left to slowly decay on an abandoned farm somewhere in the Midlands - just needs a canopy you can't see through, some hydraulic fluid, weeds, a rusted out Vauxhall, a dilapidated shed, some sheep, etc. I need to figure out what to do with those wingtips. Don't remember where I found this photo (was it posted here?) but I think this is what the modified wingtips look like. I need to graft on a lump at the front and a lump on the back. Oh, and something (a light?) on the side, plus some fairing in of the guys on the front and back. Shouldn't be too difficult, I suppose. Are these all antennae or sensors of some sort? Should they be painted black? The ones at the front and back look to be at an angle to the edge of the wing - maybe 45 degrees? Or am I misinterpreting the photos? The cowlings that go on the front of the nacelles need to have the camouflage colours wrap around the inside. The engine face has some features that would make it difficult to mask, so I either paint the engine face after the main camo, or somehow add the engine piece later. The latter is not impossible, as the fit of the cowlings to the nacelles is superb. I think I will tack these in place with a smidgen of white glue, paint the camo and then pop them off later to add the engine face. I think this is the way to get the best paint finish on all of those parts. The pieces that make up the rear of the nacelles don't fit so well. Some fettling required here. Oh joy. Cheers, Bill PS. Can I assume that Airfix Part No. J28 is not necessary for XH134 in her retirement scheme? This is a small box-like thing that is supposed to mount on the top of the spine, about halfway from the aft blade antenna and the bottom of the fin. I don't see this part in photos. It looks like a round, flat white part is in this location instead.
  16. Thanks for this. I'll be fixing the upper horizontal panel line in the aft section, but probably not that little lower guy. Gotta pick my battles, and the upper line is larger and more visible. In reality, panel lines shouldn't be all that visible on any 1:72 subject (no! don't start that debate again!). Even still, I think they add some sense of realism to the model. Cognitive dissonance indeed. Don't know about that building quickly thing, look at my yearbooks - dreadfully bereft of quantity. Now that is one weird looking bird...put that one on the list to build someday. I suspect John already has! OK, I promise not to get too hung up on the panel lines! Whew! John has quite the collection, doesn't he? My house isn't that big. Update coming soon... Cheers, Bill
  17. C-2 and F-35? Cheers, Bill
  18. Ha! Not me, that's for sure. I'd reckon I use more thinner in my airbrush mixes than just about anyone else on this esteemed board. Thinner is your friend! And so is air pressure! My particular style is probably why I use Gunze and Colourcoats 99% of the time. The pigments are exceedingly fine, and they atomize into an extremely fine spray. And they don't clog. If I'm doing a free-hand camouflage "soft" edge, I'll use up to 75-80% thinner - and I open the airbrush so that a very small amount of highly thinned paint emerges. I can hold the airbrush in one place for seconds, and just watch the colour appear as if by magic. I love it! Takes freaking forever to do some of my paint work, but I like the result. To top it all off, I use a Paasche Model H - single action, external mix. Can't get more basic than that. Some folks spray Alclad grey thinner primer straight from the bottle, but I thin it with 1/3 lacquer thinner. I thin Future too. Did I say thinner was your friend? Cheers, Bill PS. The preceding was paid for by the International Thinner Producers Cabal.
  19. I knew there was a reason I stopped building 1:48 scale! I wish I had the "definitive" set of drawings for all of the panel lines on the PR.9. I've been using John's red line and AP drawings, plus several other drawings I've found on the web, the Airfix decal placement drawings (which are quite different than the kit itself, too bad they didn't use their own drawings!) and the Xtrakit plastic. Of course, they're all different in some respect. Now, the horizontal panel line aft of the plates that you mention - the upper one or the lower one? The lower one is the one that looks like it's coming out of the plates, goes back a bit, and then turn 90 degrees and heads to the underside. I suspect you're referring to the upper one, which should not be an extension of the line that runs along the midsection of the fuselage. I actually scribed that one myself, before I had John's AP drawing. I was following the Airfix decal plan. My plan is to fix that. To be honest with everyone, though, I don't intend to try and replicate and/or fix every panel line on this beastie. I'll fix a few of the major issues, but I deplore scribing and I want to paint this puppy sometime before the end of the decade! Cheers, Bill
  20. Beautiful build - I love the VF-2 markings. One of my favourites from the early days of the twin-tailed cat. Cheers, Bill
  21. OK, let's see. The strengthening plates are on, and just for fun I sprayed some Alclad Grey Primer to see how bad they look. To be honest, the material is very thin and they might get lost under a few more coats of paint! The big issue now is "some" of the panel lines on the fuselage. I think the ones on the wing will be OK, especially since I don't plan to use a panel line wash. Some, but not all, of the ones on the fuselage are quite deep, so they'll need more than primer. A few coats of Mr.Surface 500 should do the trick, but I suppose I should see if I need to make any more corrections (adding panel lines, filling others). You may notice that the vertical panel line which goes through the aft end of the strengthening plates has been moved rearward. Too much fun. Cheers, Bill
  22. How about the High Planes kits of the B.2 and B.6? I know they are quite rough around the edges, even more so than "normal" short run kits, but some of the builds I've seen look quite nice. Do they have accuracy issues? Cheers, Bill
  23. Yikes, 55 kilos is a BIG doggie! Sally is about the same length and height as a Golden or Labrador Retriever, but she's very slim despite what the vet says. In the summer, she gets a big haircut and without all the long fur she looks like a different dog. But she is so gentle and mild-mannered, a really nice dog. Our other rescued canine, a cross between a Labrador Retriever and a Pit Bull, is...well, insane I think is the word. Totally psycho. Back to the Canberra, the plastic used by Airfix for this one is quite difficult to scribe cleanly. It's very brittle, and not like the other soft plastic used by later releases. Weird. Cheers, Bill
  24. I started a similar thread back in 2014: Searching for "fire extinguisher" in this forum brings up this post, along with several others. Cheers, Bill
  25. I hate it when that happens. I opened my newsreader one day and saw a photo of the Australians burying their F-111s. I thought, are you kidding me? That's almost as bad as the Yanks shredding all of the F-14s out at the boneyard. There's a video of that on YouTube, I couldn't watch it. Cheers, Bill