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Louise

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About Louise

  • Birthday 10/05/1965

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  • Gender
    I'd rather not say
  • Location
    New York
  • Interests
    1/87 railroads, 1/72 aircraft

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  1. Just a note.... the Hataki blue line are optimized for brush, the red line for airbrush. That may well explain the issues you had spraying them without their proprietary thinner; even for brushing they want you to thin the blue line 10 ~ 20% with thinner and do not make any note to trying to airbrush them. The red line also requires thinner to spray...... now that was new to me and explains why I've had problems. https://www.hataka-hobby.com/en_US/n/list
  2. The UTI.... anyone else here actually built one? Mine arrived earlier this year, I was so happy yet this kit is a real big disappointment regarding the canopy. I think it was made for a different kit, and no amount of faffing around provided anything close to an acceptable fit. In frustration I just dumped the thing in the trash. I may pick another one up again once I've read/seen a built up one, but for now, nah.
  3. FW190-C V13 from the Planet Models resin kit. WIP thread
  4. This past weeks work brings the photos up to date. Primed with a rattle can, polished then panel lines pre-shaded with dark rust color. RLM02 from Mr Color thinned 50:50. The starboard wing surface needed some work so it eventually received a couple more layers than the rest of the aircraft hence it's pre-shading has all but been wiped out. Not to worry as I can post shade the hue later. I then hand brushed some acrylic floor polish, left that over night then applied decals yesterday followed by another coat of hand brushed polish. Hopefully, today I can start and finish the panel line wash and some RLM02 highlighting to break up the monotonous color. I think once the high gloss has gone it will look much less toy like. Here's some 'orrible iPhone pictures, had to use the flash since I'm in a hurry.
  5. This was started couple at the beginning of the group build but it occurred to me today that I hadn't posted anything. Must have had a draft and then not saved or something. Who knows? I don't. This is a resin kit, few parts, rather nice details with a quirky look about it. One good thing is the one part wing.
  6. I'm at the stage of laying a gloss coat to enable decaling, so thankfully I can ignore the setting solution variable at the moment. You have of course highlighted an important step which is to allow plenty of time for the acrylic surface to cure properly; I've certainly found that out the hard way.
  7. Thanks for your insight guys. So I have 2 Fw190's on the bench for the other STGB this month..... when it's time to varnish, I'm going to follow Pat's outline (except I don't have Future anymore) but whatever the medium is I'll use a brush.
  8. Troy, I have tried just brushing most of the products as well. Sometimes it works for me. But I once, long ago swore at The Gods and They have never forgiven me. Even looking at the photo above makes me sigh. I wonder if, after having sprayed paint I'm leaving skin grease or something because I get areas where the gloss just will not stay. Your plane is glossed all over. Honestly, I don't manage to get that coverage I will see distinct areas where its matte, no matter how many times I brush or spray the gloss.
  9. Misting to get a bite on the surface then applying a more concentrated coat after but before the first coats dry. I try to keep the surface wet as I go with the concentrated pass. If this was happening with a pigment paint then I'd know that the paint is drying to much before it hits the surface so I would thin it more and adjust the psi and spraying distance a tadge. But with the likes of Future and Alcad, your supposed to spray these neat. If I use Hataki lacquer, I thin it but still get a problem. With Mr Color GSX100 I read it should be well thinned, ..... I still haven't had repeatability with that! It's perplexing and infuriating.
  10. KOVOZÁVODY PROSTĚJOV Supermarine Seafire Mk. Ib, MB340, RN Air Section, Port Reltz, Mombasa late 1944, flown by L/Cdr Duncan Hamilton
  11. Finished the blue salty dog but trashed the camo one due to a recurring build issue I have had since I was born, been unable to spray gloss varnish for doo-doo. I'd reckon 70% of my builds go into the bin at that stage. I can't cope with that utterly rough pebbly surface that will not self level and coat 100% of the surface with a glossy surface. Mine feels like a dead dogs butt. It doesn't matter what medium I use (and I've tried them all) when it comes to spraying gloss varnish I can't obtain anything like a smooth surface Even the blue here if seen in the flesh would show that the varnish state was terrible. Why is it that I can spray pigmented paint but not gloss varnish? I can lay down lacquer paint as smooth as silk and next day totally ruin it with that pre-decal gloss coat. Sigh........ OK, this photo was taken after I flipped out, so the surface was hand painted in varnish after a failed attempt to lay down a couple of coats ALCLAD II Gloss Klear Kote. It states 20~25psi and 1 or 2 medium coats. Well I used a 0.5 needle, 20psi from 3" and all I got was a liquid that would not even lay across the area it was sprayed on. Some areas remained matte, most went all pebbly and all of it useless for decaling. No way to strip it without taking off all the paint so I trashed it as I've way too many projects to go over this again. WTF is it with gloss coats? I trashed 14 kits last year because of the gloss coat. I just can't get over the hurdle. Anyone live in the Lower Hudson Valley and want to come round and show me what the hell I'm doing wrong? The L/Cdr Hamilton plane was finished off with ALCAD II Lacquer Klear Kote Semi Matte..... so this went down without a problem, go figure! The gloss was acrylic floor polish which went down good enough but still, compared to what it should be, far from smooth with a consistent shine.
  12. Checking the underwing panels and I have the H1 kit, so option #2 it is.
  13. James, not yet, I need to check the wing undersurface panels which should tell me if it's an H or O wing.
  14. This morning, I sprayed a coat of Quick Shine Multi Finish Floor Finish since I no longer have any Future Pledge floor stuff..... and there is no way I am going on eBay and paying anywhere from $40 to $100 to some rip off artists to buy a now out of production bottle...... This stuff, first time I used it was today, I first tested it on an old kit, then found that a few light mists followed by a heavier coat using 0.5 airbrush at 15psi and 3" distance, works absolutely superb. It also dries to the touch in about 2 mins. So that meant I even got to decal the blue spit this afternoon...... blimey..... I like this stuff. Now I missed the memo last year that said Future Pledge was being discontinued. I had decided to go the way with AK Gauzy products......... ... screw that. This QSMFFF 64oz bottle sells for $13. It smells like, looks like, feels like and performs just the same as the Gauzy stuff if not better. The big difference is that AK charge you $10 for 100ml (about 3.6oz).... so that means AK costs $189 for 64oz. Get real folks AK are ripping you off big time. The main decals are fine but the stencils were different, very fragile. I need to do some finishing on the starboard wing walk by the tip.... amazing what you see on a photo compared to the naked eye. The Yankee plane has its Sky undersurface, also now coated with QSMFFF and the top surface Slate gray (not yet glossed). I'm glossing it just now just to test out this new product and how well it deals with me masking the lower surface in prep for the upper.
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