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Das Abteilung

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About Das Abteilung

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  1. Thinking of doing "a few" IDF Shermans, I'd bought a stack of kits and parts in a fairly unstructured way - thinking I'd sort it out later. Well moving house and thinning out the stash has made "later" = now. So this is the build list I've settled on - given another lifetime to actually get round to it! M1 VVSS cast hull (Dragon base) M1 VVSS welded hull (Dragon base). Yes there were about 10 of these, all radial engine. None got HVSS as Supers. M1 HVSS Super (Dragon base) M50 VVSS early M4 Composite (Dragon base) M50 VVSS early M4A4T (Dragon base) M50 HVSS Cummins (OTB Dragon) M50 HVSS Cummins SLA (Dragon, maybe open-top APC or mortar carrier conversion) M60 Chilean M50 (Dragon with Buechler conversion) M51 cast hull early radial (Dragon + DEF) M51 cast hull late Cummins (OTB Academy) M51 welded hull late Cummins (Academy cross-kit). Yes, there were a small number of welded hull M51s. They may have been the welded M1s that weren't converted into Supers. M51 Chilean (Academy with Buechler conversion) M32 ARV Cummins HVSS (Academy/Italeri cross-kit) Oh, and a Lebanese Army VC Firefly with A2 engine conversion and glacis applique plate and an Argentine IC Hybrid Repotenciado. Not strictly IDF but in very much the same vein. Anyone think that 13 IDF Shermans is a few too many and that I might need some serious therapy help? That's what comes of reading Tom Gannon's excellent book. I suppose I could thin out the 3 "usual suspects" (vanilla Dragon M50, Academy M51 and VVSS cast hull M1) and concentrate on the less usual variations.
  2. Roden Vauxhall Ambulance - a look in the box

    You're not wrong at all. It is indeed a middle grey with a beige/off-white canopy. IIRC horse-drawn wagons had long been grey pre-war, probably dating back to the Napoleonic wars if not earlier. But its paint scheme would have reflected its status as a wagon rather than as an ambulance, stand fast the red crosses on the canopy. But as motorised transport and other mechanical equipment became commonplace in greater numbers and the need for at least basic camouflage colouring became obvious, "service colour" - generally accepted to be a khaki green - became the official colour. As I said, I had a quick google surf the other day and I only found 1 pic of a motor ambulance that was clearly grey - and I believe it to have been the PR photo of the prototype or first production vehicle in keeping with the industrial traditions of the time. No other photos that I found were the right tone to be grey: too dark. But the exact colouring of much WW1 equipment remains uncertain for a whole range of reasons.
  3. best online AFV modelling stores?

    Well that solves that problem..... I notice that the last message I had from them came from jadarmodel@o2.pl . In the past the "hobby@...." one you show above has been used.
  4. Sherman ambulance, IDF, 1/35

    You must have been unlucky enough to pick up an early production M50 kit. Yes, they goofed the lower hull length between rear bogie and idler - as the made-up box art pictures show. Odd as they had the basic M4A4 kit then. Presumption is that they possibly took the engine door extension as the hull rear plate position by mistake. Later production, including IIRC all the Cyber Hobby boxings, had the correct lower hull. You should get away with just cutting back the kit parts as the hull rear was completely replaced in the ambutank conversion. The gold solution is to get hold of a lower hull from another Dragon M4A4/V/VC kit. I imagine the under-hull bulges etc were removed anyway during conversion as the engine was moved forward and changed for another model. Idler mounts are the most critical parts to relocate. There are pictures on line of the surviving example at the Yad la Shiron museum. I had one of these conversions but foolishly let it go. Perhaps Legend will re-release or update. Mine was warped too: one of the perils of such a large one-piece casting. There was an earlier ambulance conversion on a VVSS M4A1 hull which I might have a go at sometime.
  5. best online AFV modelling stores?

    That's not like Jadar. I've never had trouble with correspondence with them, although they can be alittle slow. Yes their processing and delivery is a little slower than some others. Some of that is down to Polish Post. But I rate them very highly after years of dealing and spending a 4-figure Euro sum with them. Agree entirely about Sockelshop. My last delivery from them was quicker than some from the UK! Modellbau Koenig are pretty quick too. But both use parcel services (UPS/DHL/DPD) rather than postal.
  6. Roden Vauxhall Ambulance - a look in the box

    Why grey? Early tanks were grey but that was a hang-over from engineering practice of "factory grey". Motor industry wouldn't have followed that practice. A khaki-ish green seems more plausible. If the vehicle was destined for home use only then it might well have been a semi-gloss finish and more green than khaki - a "factory" colour. Period photos of ambulances in the UK clearly show some quite dark shiny finishes on the metal bodywork. The rear body here was doped canvas over a wood frame, very possibly an RFC colour as this would have been readily available, and would have been a different colour from the bodywork as the box art shows. However there is certainly one photo of a grey ambulance, possibly another Vauxhall model, but this is most likely a posed photo of a prototype or first production model. Grey showed up well on film of the time: railway locomotives were always painted grey for roll-out PR photos before being colour-painted. There is a picture of an RN Sunbeam ambulance, and even that isn't grey: looks dark enough to be navy blue. I don't believe that British Red Cross operated across the Channel. That was FANY territory, although they also operated in the UK. FANY had a wide range of vehicles, but I haven't seen any of this type of Vauxhall. An overall matt khaki green would be appropriate in France: photos suggest that brasswork wasn't painted.
  7. KFS 1:24 Land Rover Series 2A Ambulance

    Oh I do so like the look of KFS' stuff. And in a scale my eyes can actually see............ However, the blue beacon is a bit of a let-down. In that scale I would have expected to see the rotating reflector mechanism inside, and it's a bit pale apart from being very empty. Likewise, bulbs inside the rear lights and indicators are noticeably missing. And those light covers had 4 prominent "ears" as grip for unscrewing. But I pick nits .............. An RAF airfield or Mountain Rescue one with the brush bar, 2-tones etc would be nice. St John had some of these too.
  8. IDF M1 Super Sherman (HVSS).

    So (too!) many choices and possibilities! Leaving aside unique unit and vehicle-specific markings, there are a couple of generic markings and stencils out there (DN Models, Echelon, Steel Scorpion, Verlinden) and as you say cross-kitting of marking sets certainly looks feasible as there was much consistency and commonality in markings.. IIRC that searchlight may have been the same type as used on the AMX-13. I looked at the Manasherob books but the complete set - if you can find them all - was going to be soooo expensive. So I ended up getting the 2nd edition Gannon and a softback Son Of Sherman for less money. The latter of limited use for IDF but has much wider use. It does however give a wealth of detail on the underlying configurations of the parts used by IDF.
  9. IDF M1 Super Sherman (HVSS).

    Don't know how I've missed this blog either. Comfy chair and footstool also pulled up. I've got a stack of assorted Shermans and AM parts and Tom Gannon's book with a view to doing some cross-kitting as well as the M1/M50/M51 "usual suspects". An HVSS Super is certainly on the list, along with a couple of VVSS M50s (M4A4T, M4 Hybrid), a radial M51, a rarer welded M51 and maybe something else with the leftovers. Imitation being the sincerest form of flattery I will be taking copious notes. I like your approach to detailing. But I can't do work that good with 2 good (if ageing!) eyes..............! Respect.
  10. French WW1 Pair - FT & CA

    I'm constrained to Sunday. Maybe another time. I'll be living much closer soon, not a 5 hour round trip away. Your ticket gives you free entry for another year.
  11. French WW1 Pair - FT & CA

    Sadly no. The last survivor is at Saumur, restored to running order in the mid-80's having been returned to France by Aberdeen PG. It's an up-armoured type. They also have a dubious replica built on an excavator drivetrain. HobbyBoss seem to have copied some part of the replica chassis underside, which is built on bulldozer chassis. Saumur has a St Chamond too. There's a Schneider CD tracked load carrier at a motor museum in France somewhere. The only French WW1 at Bovington is an FT-17. If by "next weekend" you mean 21/22, then I'll be there myself all day on 22nd. Might see you there. Wear something obvious and I'll find you!
  12. French WW1 Pair - FT & CA

    I'm calling the Schneider "done" but haven't started the FT. Done, that is, apart from the 3-piece track links - which are driving me potty. I'm still after a gash set of Meng FT tracks instead if anyone has any. The instructions are incorrect about how much surface detail on the upper hull rear plates needs to be removed to fit the rear fuel tanks in Step 6: you need to take off all of it. You also need to take off the hinge mounting plates, but leave the hinge pins. The instructions show cut-outs on the tanks to fit over the hinges that aren't actually there. I suppose you could make those yourself instead. The lower exhaust mounting hole for the earlier version without the rear tanks is still there, incorrectly. I shaved off the bracket detail and added plastic strip and rivet heads to replace it and cover the hole. The rivets on the tank tops weren't all brilliantly moulded and I replaced some. On which subject, the etched brass corner strip part PE4 in Step 6 has its rivets represented just by dimples. Drill out the dimples while still on the fret, then drill the plastic underneath once the PE is glued on and pop in some Grandt Line or EDM rivet heads. The etched holes are for the applique plate, so don't rivet those. I discovered that I'd lost the indexing of the sprockets: the kit mounts have flats and the Blast ones don't. So I had to remove the sprocket caps, which are also indexed with flats, and re-align them correctly with the "ears" at the top. In Step 7, try as I might I could not get the trench tail parts to fit together as shown, with the top edges flush. I ended up cutting back the sloping ends of the braces A6 and A7 and taking a bit off the bottoms of the uprights until the pieces fit. Step 8 needs some attention. Part D12 needs another couple of rivets along its lower edge. I couldn't get the driver's visor to fit at all using both parts of it, so I just used the outer part A16. The metal loop thing on the glacis B7 was replaced with wire. In Step 13 the shield on the gun barrel, D2, wasn't always fitted. But if you don't use it you'll need to scratch the brace (?) which curved down from the recuperator on the left side. If you do use it, file out the hole slightly: mine cracked. If you're not using stowage on the roof "spine" you'll need to add the cables from part B3 to the signal flap B21. I'm not clear exactly where they go at the flap end, and the flap has no hinges provided. However the Blast stowage set renders this unnecessary. But in order to use that set you need to omit kit parts shown incorrectly as C34 in Step 6 (they're actually C35). The Blast stowage isn't too bad. There are some awkward pour plugs, more than a few sharp edges needing smoothed over and a couple of mould mismatch lines to attend to. The 2 pieces for the spine are supposed to fit together snugly, but I couldn't get them to even with careful trimming. So I wedged a hand axe in the join......... I made the mistake of fitting the rear piece first: don't. Fit the front piece first: it has indents to match the kit rivets for positive location. It doesn't say whether to fit part B21 first or not. I already had and the Blast part seemed to fit over it, but maybe that was the cause of my fit issues. Try dry fitting it without B21 in place first, but the absence of B21 will be noticeable. Not all the legs of the stowage frames on the side bundles met the hull top, and neither the Blast nor the kit parts have any visible means whereby the frames are attached to the hull: just plonked there. Rather than faff with trimming tiny pieces of plastic strip I used adhesive lead foil to cover the gaps and give some impression of a gusset plate (NB - after photos taken !). In common with many other stowage sets, the 2 hanging bags have no visible means of attachment. Lead foil again for bag straps over the stowage frames (also after photos!). The jack-like device strapped to the rear tank stowage bundle had the ugly top made better with plastic strip, bolt heads and a big wing nut. It needs a bit longer thread protruding. I added a couple of Texaco 2-gallon cans on the trench tail, which will be roped on after painting. Tow ropes seem to be commonly stowed on the tail too: mine's just hooked on there for now until after painting. I found a couple of photos showing shovels stowed on the fuel tanks, so I added one and a couple more hand tools on top - including an ancient Historex pitchfork I'd been looking for an excuse to use. I also found a couple of pics showing a towing attachment over the front hook behind the wire cutter. Basically a big U bolt with a plate across. Wire, plastic strip and a couple of drilled-out bolt heads. Side planks (unditching?) are bass wood with brass brackets to be added after painting. Better than either resin or plastic offerings. I'll do something with the light lenses after painting. In 1 photo a tank had a simple bent-tube step added on the right side just in front of the sponson gun. Plastic rod with the end flattened and a couple of rivet heads. However, my long-awaited house move is now finally going ahead so the modelling stuff will all be going into storage while that goes on to keep it out of the way of ham-fisted removal men, and so I don't have to bother with it immediately and not until I've had time to set up the garage and study again to my liking. Probably won't be any progress now until late June. But with getting less ££ than I wanted for this house and paying more ££ than I wanted for the new one, a lot of stash stuff may be going on eBay so that I can eat more than once a month! Oops - just noticed crooked rear doors.............. One is meant to be ajar.
  13. Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    This blog has been dormant for a while. Don't worry, I'm still alive. OK: now worry......... I thought I'd get on with building my Schneider and FT-17 while it was too cold and damp for more painting, and they kinda took over. See other blog. But my long-awaited house move is now finally going ahead so the modelling stuff will all be going into storage while that goes on to keep it out of the way of ham-fisted removal men, and so I don't have to bother with it immediately and not until I've had time to set up the garage and study again to my liking. Probably won't be any progress now until June. But with getting less ££ than I wanted for this house and paying more ££ than I wanted for the new one, a lot of stash stuff may be going on eBay so that I can eat more than once a month!
  14. Pigsty's silly Puma questions thread

    Jacks could be unpainted or painted, dunkelgelb in the days of Puma. After 1943, pretty much everything military that needed to be painted was in dunkelgelb. Overpainting with camo colours depended on how diligent the crew were in applying it: whether they removed the loose items first. So overpainting is certainly possible. Fire extinguishers much the same. Panzergrau or dunkelgelb depending on period with black-on-white labels. AFAIK never black or red.
  15. New Product - EDM Models (Cosmetic) Nuts, Bolts & Rivets

    Indicative pack sizes.