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Das Abteilung

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About Das Abteilung

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  1. 80s Soviet

    It varies. The worn armour plate areas are the usual dark metallic brown armour plate colour. This doesn't readily rust because of the corrosion-inhibiting elements in the alloy, such as manganese, nickel, chromium, carbon, etc. This is especially true for face-hardened armour compared to rolled homogeneous because of the very high surface carbon content from the supercarburising heat treatment. (Far too many "in service" models are rusted like decades-old range wrecks!). It will have a sheen where it's well-worn but is never a bright metal colour. However, the weld beads are very bright metal and will stay that way for ever. The unarmoured parts like trackguards and bins, tool brackets etc would rust, and recent fresh wear on these would be a brighter metal colour. All these vehicles are now indoors, and so not representative of one parked in the open. The Bovington T-62 is in a pretty battered state and came from one of the Gulf Wars. If you Google "Bovington T-62" there are some good images of it online. Not much rust in evidence, even on the damaged trackguards.
  2. M4 Sherman - painting & weathering

    Armour plate takes a long time to rust because of the corrosion-inhibiting elements in the alloy: carbon, manganese, nickel, chromium, etc. Unfortunately I think that much rust on your engine deck would probably take some years to develop. Weld metal will always remain a bright silvery colour and will not rust. Unarmoured mild steel parts such as fenders, bins, tool brackets etc will of course rust. You will get rust streaks from those mild steel parts, and from any mild steel fastenings like screws and bolts used on armoured parts. Sorry to be critical about the rust. Over-rusting seems to be something of a trend at the moment. I very much like the rest of the finish and I'll be saving this thread for later reference.
  3. Color of Sherman cupola glass

    Ah, Braile Scale........ Forget what I said about drilling out then! I made the mistake of assuming 1/35. Gloss black would be best, I think.
  4. 80s Soviet

    I was looking at the post-war Russian tanks at Bovington last weekend, T-72 and T-55 ex NVA, T-62 ex Iraqi. The T-55 is partly sectioned as an instructional aid. The T-62 is particularly battered. The T-72 is the only one that fits your 80's criterion. There is no visible evidence of a different primer colour around worn edges etc on any of these tanks. If the Russians were still using lead-based paints, then a primer may not have been necessary - just 2 coats. As for the top green colour, there are very many threads on exactly what colour that was. One of the posts above suggests that there had been at least 15 recipes. It was a feature of the authorised WW2 4BO colour mix that it darkened with age rather than fading, because of pigment oxidation. Whether that peculiarity continued into the 80's I do not know. Camouflage, other than white, was not generally used by the Russians in the 80's. I don't imagine that Russian tank factories all used the same paint supplier, and I equally suspect that slightly off-shade batches of paint would not be QA rejected for that reason alone. Close enough would have been good enough.
  5. Color of Sherman cupola glass

    This is a perennial question. I presume you mean the all-round vision single-hatch cupola on a late Sherman? These were just windows, not periscopes. Armoured glass is naturally a pale green shade. If your tank is closed up, then the visual impression will be gloss black from the darkness inside. Coatings were not used in those days. If the hatch is open then the glass would be visibly translucent: very hard to paint in solid plastic. Best approach here would be to drill out, clean up and fill with Microscale Kristal Kleer or high-quality PVA, tinted green when dry. You can get after-market cupolas in clear resin. If paint is your only option, a very pale aqua green or a dull silver base with clear pale green wash.
  6. csm lanchester armoured car 1:35

    In general I applaud the idea of having "upgrade sets" such as the etched spoke wheels (+ other parts?) sold separately. Not everyone wants them and multi-media kits are getting very expensive. But the quid pro quo has to be reasonably priced base kits. Which this CSM offering isn't. I did see one advert for £35 but it was out of stock in minutes. £50 or so seems to be the trend. I thought many times about getting the Armo resin Lanchester (now OOP), notwithstanding that it was the Russian version with the cupola. That was £55, probably superior (if harder to work with), and included the etched parts. It's a relatively straightforward kit with a low parts count by current standards and apparently average detail quality, like the solid hatch with no hinge rivets. £35 feels more like the right price than £50, thinking of other armoured car kits.
  7. Any Correct Centurion Wheels in 1/35 kits?

    Brach look OK for intermediate type, possibly early. Ribs don't look deep enough for late. Quickwheel look OK for late.
  8. 1/35 AFV Club Vietnam RAAC Centurion

    Whose roadwheels did you use? Those aren't the kit ones, and they're not the Legend ones. Panzer Art? MR Modellbau? I'm on a quest to find out who makes correct roadwheels with the reinforcing ribs inside the rim, which yours have. No injection plastic parts can show them because of the moulding limitations.
  9. Any Correct Centurion Wheels in 1/35 kits?

    Thanks. Yes, those are the "final" type. The central rib should actually be slightly taller than the other two, but it's only about 0.1mm in scale. But these are infinitely better than wheels with steps or no ribs. You can see how noticeable the ribs actually are. I can see from the photo that the AFVC wheels don't have the 2 outer ribs, as I believed. They do seem to show the inner one at the disc/rim join. I do love the BARVs. That's really good work on yours. I'm very impressed. I've always fancied the BARV Family with Sherman, Centurion and Hippo but my scratchbuilding skills aren't up to the last 2 (and Hippo needs a full interior with the big windows) and the Resicast Sherman conversion costs a small fortune.
  10. Any Correct Centurion Wheels in 1/35 kits?

    What started out as a discussion on another forum about the new GUP/AFV Club A41 Centurion MkI led me to do some investigating about the roadwheels and to draw an alarming conclusion: they're wrong in pretty much all 1/35 offerings as far as I can tell. Perhaps we can turn this into a little survey of the kits in peoples' stashes to see how different kits of Cent-based vehicles show the wheels. Centurion wheels started out on the early Marks as unaltered Comet wheels: certainly on Mks I - 3. These had 2 thin circumferential reinforcing ribs inside the rim. Over time these ribs grew thicker and ended up as 3 quite pronounced ribs. The visible thickness of the edge of the rim also increased. No injection-moulded wheels can possibly represent these ribs because of the limitations of steel moulds: no undercuts, as we well know. Slide moulding is no help here. In order to show the ribs correctly, the rim would need to be made up from rings or slices. IIRC the AFV Club wheels are single-piece mouldings, so they can't be correct. Resin casting in flexible moulds has a chance of representing the ribs, and there are several after-market wheel sets out there. At least one has the ribs. My stash of Centurion-based vehicles that are still running on Centurion wheels is limited (as distinct from those running on Merkava wheels). The Academy Nagmashot does not show the ribs at all. The Tiger Models early (non-doghouse) Nagmachon actually does show the late triple ribs. But for some daft reason Tiger have chosen to mould the entire wheel rim outside the central disc as part of the flexible vinyl tyre, making them IMHO pretty much useless. It's certainly pointless having a separate tyre that includes the rim as it gives no painting advantage. And we all know about painting vinyl. I presume the flexible material allowed the undercut moulding. The only AM wheel set I currently have is the Legend offering. These have a step moulded into the rim at about half depth, not present on the real thing. Useless. Looking at pictures on line, the Panzer Art spare wheel set does show the late triple ribs. It's impossible to tell if the full wheel set does the same, but I'm going to risk getting a couple of sets anyway. Panzer Art clearly know what they should look like and if they can cast it in one set they can surely do it in the other. I noticed on another forum that someone described the PA wheels as "not the best": if they have the ribs then they've just been promoted to "the only correct ones"! It would be interesting to hear about the situation in any other Centurion kits and AM wheel sets you may have stashed away. Here is a sketch of how the wheel rim design evolved over time, taken from looking at the various Bovington Centurions. And here are some supporting photos. First, Comet. Centurion Mk I (also Mk3) Mk 7 Strv104 Mk13 Unused spare wheel, last type
  11. Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    Haven't heard that one before for aerosol paint, although it used to be a common trick for airbrush propellant cans. Must give it a try. As a general rule I only use rattle cans for primer on military models. My concern would be that as well as warming the paint liquid it will increase the gasification rate of the compressed propellant and thus increase the spray pressure and volume. This may not always be desirable. I recall that someone in the past (Verlinden?) used to advocate warming paint before airbrushing, probably enamels. But with acrylics that might foster premature drying unless a retarder is used. Rapid drying in the spray can be a problem even at room temperature.
  12. Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    Voluntary "job" thing. Test of knowledge and presentation before let loose for real. 1989 should have read 1998. I was a tutor at an MOD training centre 1998-2003 and a signals instructor in the TA 1993-97, so it isn't a complete novelty. The rivet effect is mostly the lighting angle, but WW1 tanks do seem to come up well with pin wash and drybrush. 3,000 rivets in close formation. All 3 Mk IVs will be different colours: brown, green and multi cam. Whippets were all green.
  13. Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    Your wish is my command, Mr Clive.......... Well, primer anyway. 4 Brown Objects. This is Army Painter Leather Brown rattle can primer. It's the best out-of-the-can primer match for an armour plate colour I've found yet. Ideally, it would be a little darker. I tried a Tamiya TS-1 Red Brown rattle can on the Whippet, although this isn't a primer. This is a little darker but it was putting too much paint on for my liking for a primer coat so I finished off with the Leather Brown. I will hairspray these before colour-coating, not having had much success with chipping fluids. These seem to be time-sensitive in their use, whereas hairspray doesn't seem to be. I haven't found any evidence that Mk IVs were primed in red, white or grey, especially looking at wear-through on the Bovington herd. But these have mostly been repainted at least once. As paints in those days were all white-lead-based anyway I don't think it would have been necessary. Pigment and white lead powder was mixed by dry weight with the oil or turpentine base for immediate use. It didn't keep once mixed and had to be used. 2 coats were applied, by brush: no soft edge camo. Some colour variation was inevitable. Same for the German rework line at BKP20. A quick blow over with rattle can white on the Whippet engine cover and fuel tank as a base for a better coat. Forgot to hairspray these first ......... Tracks are done with the same base colour as they were made from the same type of plate, just 6mm rather than 8-12mm. Of course the plate overlaps left an unpainted strip I'll have to deal with where visible. I was planning on finishing the inside faces first and then doing the outside faces once mounted. I have an exam-cum-audition on Tuesday and another the following Tuesday, so I don't imagine there will be any more progress for 10 days or so. I haven't auditioned for anything since 1989 or been examined on anything since 1990. Rex sat poised high above the crowd as an expectant hush descended: but he was an Old Dog, and this was a New Trick.......
  14. Personal WW1 Group Build: MkIVs & Whippet

    Finally got round to stowing up the Female. I took inspiration from this picture, especially the roof-top fuel cans, but didn't set out to copy it. There's a lot you can't see or make out on top and between the horns. I'd love to know what's stowed between the horns on the left (blocking the vent!), but just can't make it out clearly enough. Not even on the 6 foot high enlargement of this photo on the entrance wall at Bovington. It is round: a barrel maybe? 200 litre/50 gallon steel drums weren't around then AFAIK. A tin bath crossed my mind, but no-one makes an empty one in scale (at least not that I can find) and my schoolboy geometry isn't up to drawing up plans to make one from sheet metal. Most of the small items like tools are still loose for painting and final positioning. 2 gal fuel cans are Panzer Art, 1 gal are Resicast. Crates are from MR Modellbau (WW1 set), Panzer Art (ration and .303 ammo) and Homefront (open one). Folded/rolled canvas is from Red Zebra. Bucket is RB Model. I raided the bits box for the helmets, packs ponchos and tools. Some of the tools, like the wood saw and axes, are vintage Historex. Can't be seen at the moment under the helmets, but there are some Scale Link white metal (1/32) oilers and tools in the open crate. Apart from the still-awaited Lewis barrels I think I'm calling this done, and therefore all of them done - apart from finishing or re-making the fascine for the Male. Painting time. I was intending to wrap the exhausts with thread post-painting to represent the asbestos winding. But I'm beginning to regret that choice and think I should just have wrapped the thread now and painted it. Decisions and consequences (and sweary words!).
  15. Which glue for rubber tracks?

    IMHO the answer is "none", unless this kit has one of the specifically glueable types which should respond to ordinary plastic solvent adhesives. If so, the instructions will say to glue the track ends together. If it's the type that must be heat-sealed together, then for all practical purposes there is no permanent adhesive for it. Other than the few glueable types, every other flexible material that kit tracks are made from - which is very rarely rubber - is impervious to most solvents and presents a very low-grip surface. Your paint is very likely to pull off in short order - leaving you trying to stick the paint back to the track or cleaning off the wheel and trying again. A plastic-plastic join might last a little longer, but over time the tension in the track will overcome the adhesive, and you may get softening of the hard plastic from the contact. I presume the varnish is to prevent this? But if you use glue, a kink is inevitable as the track will adopt a straight line between the sprocket top and the glue point - until it pings off! - whereas it should adopt a smooth curve down from the sprocket. The old trick for these tracks was to use a loop of appropriately-coloured or "invisible" thread between or behind the wheels, depending on the suspension and track type, holding the top run either around the wheel centre or to the bottom run of the track. I have also heard of people inserting headless pins into the hull sides to hold the top run down, painted appropriately or disguised with mud to hide them. PECO blackened brass model railway track pins spring to mind, but may be a little short. Unfortunately both Panther hull types had quite a wide gap between the track and the sponson bottom, although less on the G. If you have the schurzen fitted then the sag will be completely hidden and you can use thread or pins to ensure that when seen from the back the track comes flat to the idler and not on a slope. If not, then I would say use thread from the inside teeth holes in the track behind the road wheels and around the axles. The track should certainly touch the top of the 2nd outside road wheel, possibly the 2nd inside one if slack. But to avoid the kink problem you will probably need to use thread on the first 2 wheel stations too to get that smooth curve without a kink at the first tie-down point. There are advantages to individual link or link and length hard plastic tracks, accepting that these are not provided or available for every tank type. Some kits, such as the Trumpeter KV-1s, even come with the top run sag already moulded in. But there are the disadvantages of extra cost, potential loss of sanity and expansion of the sweary vocabulary!
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