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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Killingholme

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  1. Here's a radical idea- play to your strengths regarding scale- bigger is better. Assuming WWII RN is your bag, what about about the 1/72 Ex-matchbox Snowberry- the Revell boxing is available with lots of aftermarket and wood decks too. Or how about the ancient airfix RAF rescue boat? If not dedicated to the RN, how about a 1/72 Revell U-boats or Gato submarines, of which there are several varieties on sale. Dropping down a scale- 1/144 Revell Fletcher class, or even their Landing Ship Tank (LST). All of these would offer kits in which the 'language' of aircraft modelling would still be relevant. A real wildcard- howabout the Merit 1/35 X-craft midget submarine?!? Will
  2. Good luck, let us know how you get on and if you need help with anything. The Revell kit was originally released by Academy in 1998- and is considered the best all round kit of Titanic. The larger scale is your friend too- 1/700 can be darned fiddly!) But don't do ANY gluing yet!! Go online and read as many build reviews of this kit as you can find (the Academy 1/400 kit is identical to yours). You will soon get a sense of where the tricky bits are. A quick note about build sequence: Most manufacturer's instructions are simple build sequences -glue this to this- and this to this- until the last step which is the completed, UNPAINTED model. What they often don't tell you is when it might be useful to pre-paint a part, or treat part of the build like a sub-assembly. Also, on big kits like these, don't feel obliged to do it in order. For example- you could easily glue up the four funnels, paint them and set them aside for later. Such little jobs like these- treated as sub assembly projects mean you can make progress, and if you don't have much time at the bench (or can't be bothered!) they represent an 'easy win' to keep the build moving forwards. Good practice is to read the instructions through critically before you glue anything, noting down on them things such as colour callouts so you don't miss them out. Basically- build the model in your head first. It is also a good idea to look at what you can build as sub assemblies- clusters of parts which you can complete, even paint, and then fit later. Similarly, think about how you can paint up your parts in a way that will avoid having to mask around them later. An obvious example here is the deck houses. If you removed all of these from the sprues, painted them all white in one go, and then glued them to the (painted) deck- you will have a very crisp effect with minimal effort. It also has the benefit of meaning you can paint the mahogany window frames whilst you can still easily handle these small parts. Once you've built the model a few times in your head- then get gluing! Let us know how you get on! Will Will
  3. I know it would involve more purchasing, (and it has rather limited uses in aeromodelling), but one of those wax-based AK 'true metal' paints would work quite well here. Obviously not worth the outlay for such a small area. I think I'd just drybrush with a light silver paint- the trick would be to get a feathered edge. Will
  4. Nah, these guys are clearly utterly crazy. Something sensible like that wouldn't interest them at all!
  5. Valom RRPs never seem to stand up to market forces too well- could be because they had some well publicised build issues in the earlier days, although I've sold on some Supermarine Walrus kits for reduced values too- and they are very fine models indeed! Don't worry. After Brexit there'll be enough shiny black speedboats dumping waterproofed bricks of plastic model kits off the Kent coast.. We'll be fine... Will
  6. My wife just asked me why I shouted a very loud expletive from up in the study! Seriously, I don't care how much this costs, I've GOT to have it. This thing's got the span of a B-2- only about 10ft short of a B-52. That's got to be pushing short-run injection technology. Best of luck to them. Will
  7. Looks good Jamie, On a related topic, can I ask what concoction you use for the weathered anti-fouling colour? It looks really nice Will
  8. Gluing: 4) Tweezers Fine modelling tweezers prevent glued-up thumb prints on your model and make life generally easier when positioning small parts. This will be especially useful on a 1/700 scale model! Maybe a couple of different types- flat, needle, bent would always have a use, and many come in sets anyway. 5) Polystyrene Cement- Revell Contacta and Humbrol Precision Poly being the most commonly found in the UK Note that these both have narrow metal tubes to ensure the application is controlled. Both are very similar in how they work- the Contacta having a little more grab (i.e. less working time before it sets), but the Humbrol makes a more aggressive 'weld'. I used contacta for years not because I like it, but I know how it behaves, and that predictability is very useful when knowing how much glue to apply. By the way, should you find these fine tubes get blocked, which they will, just hold the tube over the gas hob for a couple of seconds and the dried glue will be burnt out. How to glue- I know, sounds silly, but worth reading. http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/ You might need to hold parts together whilst they dry. You can use clamps or tape. You'll need the tape anyway... 5) Tamiya Masking Tape It has a slight elasticity so that you can pull parts closer together if you want to apply some force to drying parts. It will also conform to slight compound curves which is handy. It is 100 times better than domestic 'decorators' masking tape and when you get round to painting you model, this tape will mean you get very clean demarcations between colours. 6) Cocktail sticks For stirring paint, etc etc. Combined with a bit of foam packaging they make excellent paint stands for small parts. It would be a challenge, but I think you could build that kit with just these tools and maybe a few general household items such as scissors, kitchen roll, etc etc. The best thing would be to open a build thread on here and let everyone weigh in with their experience and advice! Will
  9. M More general advice from someone who was a beginner a few years ago too. I made lots of mistakes buying kit I didn't need, and got caught out by 'starter kits' too- they are really only a marketing gimmick. Avoid starter sets with paint included because 1) there's never enough paint to cover the model well, and 2) the brushes are not usually the right type for smoothly painting large areas in single colours. You will also find with kits such as airfix that they simplify their decal sheets, or sometimes even cheat by telling you a part is should be an inaccurate colour because it just happens to mean they don't have to include the correct one! Titanic is a big model, but has a lot of large blocks of colour that you will want painting smoothly- doing this by hand is tricky unless you lay down thin coats over a good primed base- using a flat, wide artists brush. Personally, on a kit like this, I would recommend buying some aerosol spray tins. Halfords red, black and white primers will cost you over £15, but will guarantee a smooth paint finish, and the tins will last you a months as primers for any other models you build. Going right back to the beginning, you will need some basic tools regardless of what kit you buy. I was stuck in a hotel last month and built a model kit to a pretty good standard using the bare minimum. So I AM speaking from experience that the following I consider essential modelling tools: So you've got to remove the parts from the sprues... 1) Sprue Cutters Consider buying dedicated sprue cutters if you can, it makes removing parts from the sprue much neater and removes the inherent danger that comes from applying any sort of pressure to a craft knife blade You'll need to clean those parts up- no matter how neat you are, there will be nubs of plastic from where the parts were formerly attached to the sprues- there might also be some fine areas of 'flash'. This is when the mould is a little bit worn and some plastic will seep out- it is usually a thin ridge and can interfere with fit. It is easily scraped away with a... 2) Craft knife. Buy a good one- cheap knives often have a plastic 'chuck' (the part where the blade is secured). Plastic chucks break- and I consider them to be quite dangerous actually. Make sure you have plenty of blades spare- they dull quite quickly, which makes work hard. You may need to smooth the parts a bit further- so you'll need... 3) Sanding stick. Now you can buy a whole range of sanding sticks from modelling suppliers, and they do work well. You can get products that will polish plastic to a glass-like sheen. In you case though, if all you're going to be doing is cleaning up parts that you've just cut from the sprues- I'd recommend just a plain old nail file. Those marketed as 'professional' with 4, sometimes 6 different 'grits' are quite handy, and whilst they will wear out much more quickly than 'modellers' sanding sticks- and water will often ruin them- they are cheap. Make sure you avoid emery boards- they are FAR too coarse for sanding model parts.
  10. Easy- go here: http://titanic-model.com/paint/ Basically... underwater hull- red lead colour mid hull- black upper decks- white funnels- yellowish buff (it is still debated what exactly this looked like) You could actually paint it all (perhaps excluding the funnels) using Halfords aerosol sprays! There are a lots of other colour details that are worth researching (and not usually included in kit paint-instructions anyway). For example, the lower halves of the well decks were red- an often missed detail which is very visible. A bit of time spent researching colour details would go a long way to elevating an otherwise basic model. Worth doing! Will
  11. Wow, another Procopian build, and I've managed to get on the thread without having to sift through twenty pages of ghastly '90s tv shows first. Nice. I checked out that thread where you asked about the shadow shading, I had forgotten that I also asked Edgar a question in that thread too... Wow, 2014- for us millennials it seems a very long time ago! Good luck with the build. regards, Will
  12. Good job on a tricky kit. Proper modelling
  13. By the way, this sort of marketing obviously worked- my grandfather, who was a rural postmaster and shopkeeper, bought an army surplus Willy's jeep after his demob- kept it running on what must have been very draughty local deliveries until the mid 60s when he replaced it with a Land Rover. Will
  14. This isn't a new thing. It's interesting that all the major manufacturers kept a very close eye on their branding duing WWII itself- they were never shy of running full page ads in the magazines and press to promote their 'freedom' guaranteeing materiel. Considering a lot of the manufacturers were formerly in the business of selling consumer goods such as automobiles, it's understandable what they were hoping to achieve. What's really interesting that the groups such as GM continued to market their wartime material as branded products. Taking GM as an example, the P-38's were marketed as Cadillac (i.e. premium, precision products), Chevy and Pontiac were building solid and dependable trucks, guns and landing craft, Oldsmobile building hard-hitting hot rod P-61 black widows... it was all just an extension of peacetime brand values. http://www.adbranch.com/how-well-known-brands-advertised-during-world-war-ii-15-pics/ Will
  15. Thank you for the information on the Soviet Camouflage. I am sure that you are correct in your interpretation as there is clear evidence of fully-repainted SVA.5 aircraft from the same period. Good luck with the sales of the C.VI kit. I hope it will prompt more investment in 1/72 WWI subjects. Following the theme of 2 seat aircraft, I would like to see the Rumpler 'family' of C.I, C.III, C.IV, perhaps even the 6B-2; ...or an early war Albatross B.II... Will