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RJP

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About RJP

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    Established Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    WW II in the air, political and military history, photography.

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  1. Yes, I'm in Toronto and Monogram have always been fairly plentiful. I've had one of theirs in the stash forever. There must have been some reason I didn't build it back then. but can only recall that it had Monogram's then-standard fine raised panel lines and a very clear canopy, the latter something of an epiphany after years of polishing out Airfix Lancasters and Spitfires.
  2. Scalemates lists the Matchbox kit as a 1978 release and one by Monogram as 1977. I suppose it might depend on one's location which was sighted first.
  3. Order of RAF squadron codes

    The odd grouping, all aft of the roundel, was also seen on Lancasters of 12 Squadron. How extensively and for how long I do not know. This site has a thumbnail and I have seen others: https://www.medalsofengland.com/medals.php?id=139&medalid=1109
  4. Smoothness should be a given but that isn't hard to achieve. Wet and dry paper (cheap from the hardware store, expensive from a model shop) is my old standby. I only go as far as 800 or 1200 grit. That said, I rarely do gloss or metallic finishes that really require smoothness; your basic olive drab covers many sins. Don't forget to clean the surface before you paint. I hesitate to admit to a lifetime of ruined finishes from greasy finger marks. . . You could try a primer coat before you apply the final colour coats. The light colours you mention are notorious for their inability to cover, especially dark colours, but if you have first applied a uniform coat of primer you will find you need fewer colour coats. Primer aids adhesion and can be sanded out for smoothness. It can even be scribed for detail if you are feeling frisky. Tamiya makes well regarded primers, grey and white, in spray cans and there are modellers who use Tamiya white primer as a finish coat.
  5. Looks like a Vickers Valetta to me.
  6. The one flying in New Zealand is a bit of an odd duck. It has the early windscreen retrofitted along with the potted engine cowlings. And the wing and tailplanes are the pointy metal jobs seen on the postwar marks. I'm not sure it isn't a unique combination. NOT to say it wouldn't be a worthy and interesting conversion all on its own.
  7. The Fly Hi idea was also tried by Revell and one wonders if there were others? https://www.oldmodelkits.com/index.php?detail=10063&searchtext=scorpion&erl=Revell-1-80-Whip-Fly-F-89D-Scorpion-H153-98 I had the Scorpion pictured here. It was a bit of fun but emphatically not to be played with in the house. It seemed to 'fly' a bit better once the nose was packed heavily with lead and plasticine, more stable I guess and a most satisfying experience for a ten year old.
  8. The B-25 and B-26 reminded me that I always enjoyed Frog kits' relatively restrained surface detail as compared to Airfix rivets. Though neither was difficult to rectify, neither was satisfactory either. Frog's simple lines took less effort to remove with a couple of swipes with a safety razor blade or even sandpaper in a pinch. Seen from the side a lapped joint always struck me as looking like a cliff whereas a raised line resembles a ridge or maybe a line of poorly applied silicone caulking. How thick is a sheet of aluminum anyway? Reduced to 1/72 and the overlaps are invisible anyway unless you get your nose right up to the model. I prefer to remove it all, lines, rivets and whatnot and replace it sparingly with a very sharp 4H or 6H lead pencil. Not enough pressure to scratch the surface, just enough to suggest the faintest shadow.
  9. FS36081 Spray

    There are lots of suitable mixing containers free in the average kitchen and many of them just the right size, condiment and ingredient jars that would otherwise be thrown away. We have a small cupboard full of them, washed for re-use. Jam, yeast, garlic, even a few baby food jars from the last century. They will all be too big to store the mixed paint, too much air space inside for that. You can return it to the original bottles or tinlets and seal them properly.
  10. FS36081 Spray

    Why not do as house painters do? Get yourself as many pots as you think you will need. Mix them together for a uniform shade and then get to work. The resulting colour won't be identical to either but won't be far from either, um, either. I bet your eye can't tell!
  11. Harvard MkII

    A couple of points: The serial in the picture seems to be 2565 or possibly 2585. Can you confirm the serial and unit, perhaps from your grandfather's logbook? Both 2565 and 2586 were from an early batch built by North American in California and imported. They were in service as early as September/October 1940. 2565 served first at 4 SFTS Saskatoon and later at 32 SFTS at Moose Jaw. It went to Crown Assets for disposal in 1946. 2585 was at Uplands and later as a bombing trainer at Jarvis. It lasted in service until 1960.
  12. 1/72 lancaster turret blank.

    Actually, RCAF squadrons (some? many? most?) brought their Lancasters home by air to prepare to take part in Tiger Force. Other aircraft that had arrived in the UK were pulled from the MUs and sent home. KB944 in the museum in Ottawa is an example but there are others. Some served long after the war. There are multiple pictures about. Here is a link to KB739 on the ground at Yarmouth in June 1945. 56 missions complete and a happy looking crew back from the war: http://www.bombercommandmuseum.ca/photos_lanc/photos_kb739.html Note the details - needle blades on the props, early shallow bomb aimer's blister, early pitot placement. They've already shed the flame dampers on the exhausts, though. It later served with the Winter Experimental Establishment. High spirits! There is a shot of KB865 at Yarmouth and its mates of 419 Squadron in early June 1945 sporting whitewall tires and Type C wing roundels. KB865 had the Martin turret and paddle blades but others in the shot had the FN, some had needle blades. The same endless varations they had on operations, I guess. A fellow could spend a very pleasant afternoon just looking.
  13. Grim reaper p51d

    I assume the decal sheet has some details, serial number, pilot's name or unit? Try searching the serial number on google.
  14. 1/72 lancaster turret blank.

    On the subject of the Canadian-built Mk X, I understand that the first production machine with the Martin mid-upper turret was KB864, named Sugar's Blues. Prior to that, all Mk X aircraft had the usual FN turret. When the Martin was fitted it was placed 6 feet forward of the prior position. Edit: Lancasters in the FMxxx serial range were built after the KBxxx range, out of the normal alphabetical order. All the FMxxx range had the Martin turret too.
  15. Keeping dust off drying paint?

    A mesh splatter guard, often sold in dollar stores to keep the microwave clean, ought to be fine enough to keep the dust out and allow better air circulation than a more closed box. And an oldtime suggestion is to paint in the bathroom. A small room, the door can be closed, and basin or tub full of water will help lay the dust. If you can't paint there, you might be able to take the piece in there to dry.
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