Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

RJP

Members
  • Content count

    269
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

124 Excellent

About RJP

  • Rank
    Established Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    WW II in the air, political and military history, photography.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,213 profile views
  1. FS36081 Spray

    There are lots of suitable mixing containers free in the average kitchen and many of them just the right size, condiment and ingredient jars that would otherwise be thrown away. We have a small cupboard full of them, washed for re-use. Jam, yeast, garlic, even a few baby food jars from the last century. They will all be too big to store the mixed paint, too much air space inside for that. You can return it to the original bottles or tinlets and seal them properly.
  2. FS36081 Spray

    Why not do as house painters do? Get yourself as many pots as you think you will need. Mix them together for a uniform shade and then get to work. The resulting colour won't be identical to either but won't be far from either, um, either. I bet your eye can't tell!
  3. Harvard MkII

    A couple of points: The serial in the picture seems to be 2565 or possibly 2585. Can you confirm the serial and unit, perhaps from your grandfather's logbook? Both 2565 and 2586 were from an early batch built by North American in California and imported. They were in service as early as September/October 1940. 2565 served first at 4 SFTS Saskatoon and later at 32 SFTS at Moose Jaw. It went to Crown Assets for disposal in 1946. 2585 was at Uplands and later as a bombing trainer at Jarvis. It lasted in service until 1960.
  4. 1/72 lancaster turret blank.

    Actually, RCAF squadrons (some? many? most?) brought their Lancasters home by air to prepare to take part in Tiger Force. Other aircraft that had arrived in the UK were pulled from the MUs and sent home. KB944 in the museum in Ottawa is an example but there are others. Some served long after the war. There are multiple pictures about. Here is a link to KB739 on the ground at Yarmouth in June 1945. 56 missions complete and a happy looking crew back from the war: http://www.bombercommandmuseum.ca/photos_lanc/photos_kb739.html Note the details - needle blades on the props, early shallow bomb aimer's blister, early pitot placement. They've already shed the flame dampers on the exhausts, though. It later served with the Winter Experimental Establishment. High spirits! There is a shot of KB865 at Yarmouth and its mates of 419 Squadron in early June 1945 sporting whitewall tires and Type C wing roundels. KB865 had the Martin turret and paddle blades but others in the shot had the FN, some had needle blades. The same endless varations they had on operations, I guess. A fellow could spend a very pleasant afternoon just looking.
  5. Grim reaper p51d

    I assume the decal sheet has some details, serial number, pilot's name or unit? Try searching the serial number on google.
  6. 1/72 lancaster turret blank.

    On the subject of the Canadian-built Mk X, I understand that the first production machine with the Martin mid-upper turret was KB864, named Sugar's Blues. Prior to that, all Mk X aircraft had the usual FN turret. When the Martin was fitted it was placed 6 feet forward of the prior position. Edit: Lancasters in the FMxxx serial range were built after the KBxxx range, out of the normal alphabetical order. All the FMxxx range had the Martin turret too.
  7. Keeping dust off drying paint?

    A mesh splatter guard, often sold in dollar stores to keep the microwave clean, ought to be fine enough to keep the dust out and allow better air circulation than a more closed box. And an oldtime suggestion is to paint in the bathroom. A small room, the door can be closed, and basin or tub full of water will help lay the dust. If you can't paint there, you might be able to take the piece in there to dry.
  8. 1/48 Harvard

    I have both in the stash and apart from the canopies I find there is little to choose between them. Mostly, it's a case of surface detailing, engraved on the Ocidental kit and raised rivets on the Monogram. The only real complaint about the Ocidental kit has to do with the cowling which has insufficient taper in side view. See Post #18 in this thread: Monogram's cowling is superior in shape but does have the cutout for the cowl gun. No biggie that if one is reasonably adept with shim and filler.
  9. Help me prevent a murder...

    You could blame the cat. They have nine lives and won’t miss one. Failing that, a pile of books will hide it while you do the strategic thing and suggest a new carpet. Do NOT use a pile of dirty laundry as that will attract attention and, worse, action.
  10. Must see Mosquito documentary

    CanMilAir does, or did: http://www.canmilair.com/index.htm I see the owner suspended decal sales for medical reasons but was expecting to be back some months ago. I hope all is well with him.
  11. Lancasters, Tallboys and 1/48 Questions

    Have you tried a google image search? I found this, and one of the photographs shows the later bomb aimer blister: http://www.planetdiecast.com/index.php?&option=com_content&view=article&id=88814&catid=13
  12. North American Harvard I.

    Beware the Harvard and all its manifestations from earliest NA-44 right through the to the strictly postwar T-6G and Harvard 4. There are more minor variations and pitfalls than I can keep track of. They all look so similar but they are all so different. I find time well spent on research and there is a lot of information on the web - free! One tip about Belcher Bits, you might find their Harvard I kit interesting. Mike includes a full Ocidental kit in the box as a basis for the Mk I conversion. No, I'm not suggesting you buy one but he has published the instruction sheet on his site and it is well worth a read. http://www.belcherbits.com/images/kits/bk9inst.pdf He suggests using the Ocidental kit parts for the interior and that makes a lot of sense.
  13. Colourised WW2 aircraft

    The obvious traps aren't always. One of the first colorised movies I ever heard of featured Frank Sinatra. But the guy doing the job was not familiar with his subject. The review I saw carried the headline Ol' Brown Eyes is Back.
  14. Help with priming

    I often prime but don’t generally use a purpose-formulated primer. A careful coat of gloss enamel works quite well for a primer and I usually find no specialised primer has been necessary. Paint it on, let it cure properly and buff it out. I have been using the same tin of Humbrol green for years. It works. Primer only does three things. If you don’t need to accomplish them, you don’t need to prime at all. First, it gives a good basis for the subsequent colour coat to adhere. That usually isn’t much of a problem if you are brushing enamels, their adhesive qualities are generally excellent on their own. Second, they give a uniform base colour, important if you are using colour coats that aren’t opaque. Most enamels are pretty good in that respect, especially the darker ones. Lastly, they give a uniform surface for the colour coats. For example, if you have worked the surface with sandpaper or used one of the tube fillers you will find the surface has a subtly different texture than the surrounding plastic. It will announce its presence with some authority but only after you have painted it. The effects can be lessened with artful sanding, fine papers used wet and so on, but a coat of primer will fill the tiny imperfections you have introduced. I stress this is what works for me. Your mileage may vary: the only right answer is the method that works for you. One note, however. It's been said often that Tamiya fine white primer is an admirable white paint all on its own. I haven't tried it but have an old Airfix Sunderland that will need large areas of white and am looking forward to trying it out.
  15. Vintage Airfix Kits

    It depends on what you mean by 'vintage' and what you feel you need in the box. For me at least vintage Airfix starts somewhere around 1960. They were kits of their time and they really were the best, honest kits with few gimmicks, basically accurate, easy to assemble and with plenty of scope for the exercise of modelling skill. The rivets usually draw comment but honestly a man can learn to use sandpaper and a few minutes improves things no end. Some aftermarket stickies and maybe canopies (see: Falcon and Squadron for that) and you have can have a very pleasant modelling experience. The Spitfire Vb has already been mentioned, the same goes for the basically similar Mk I. The Boston was always a favourite. The B-26 (both the Marauder and the Invader) are quite good. If you'd like to go older, the Bristol Superfreighter and DH Heron are pleasant and simple. Airfix also did a string of US Navy types during what I think of as their Blue Period. Wildcat, Hellcat, Corsair, Avenger, Devastator (very good indeed), Helldiver and Dauntless. The Dauntless is a real sleeper. Lose the rivets, replace the glass and have some fun drilling out the flap perforations. Watch for the remoulds of older kits. The earliest Airfix catalogue included the Ju87, Spitfire, Hurricane and Bf 109 and Whirlwind. All were replaced with all-new kits though the old ones held on for quite a while. The newer ones were generally more accurate. Old kits can be had from second hand retailers, show vendors or, if you get lucky, as old stock in shops.
×