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Ray S

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About Ray S

  • Rank
    Ray S
  • Birthday 01/04/16

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly,

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2,658 profile views
  1. Hello all! I am getting close to the finishing line now, but am also getting to some of the more tricky areas too. First up were the pair of radiators. I had backed the open mouldings with 5 thou card, then sharpened up a bit of detail, finally drilling a small hole at the top of each one to allow some rod to be fitted to represent the filler caps: After cutting down the filler caps to a more realistic height, I painted the assembly Revell Anthracite, gave the grilles a dry brush of Humbrol Gun Metal, and painted the caps bronze. In the meantime I painted some rod Bronze and fitted that underneath the fuel tank cross-fuselage to show the connecting pipe between the radiators: This was just dry fitted at the time, I kept it loose but it was firmly wedged under the tank. I then had great fun trying to fit the radiators straight and level and symmetrical to the fuselage, as they were in a really tight spot! They eventually lined up okay, and I secured the pipe with a couple of dabs of CA. Then I looked at my scratchbuilt engine again, and decided to enhance it a bit. On the Small Stuff photo I had, it showed seven small bits on the 'crank case(?)' which I had not previously fitted, so I remedied that, much to my wife's amusement! There are now 30 parts to this contraption! It is not as good as the Small Stuff engine (see Limeypilot's thread for that!) but I am quite pleased with the result. All this needs is a prop, and Scaleplanes provided one in vacform form. Over the years I have always replaced vacform props, but I decided to do something different this time, and used it! I cut it out from the backing sheet via my scissors, then filled it with Perfect Plastic Putty, and after an hour or so had a lovely messy time sanding and filing it to an approximate shape. I do not think I have done it quite right, but it is as close as I am going to get with this one. It is currently in the paint shop. I have also got on with the outrigger floats: These again were open-topped, so after sanding them down, I skinned again with 5 thou card, drilled a couple of holes in the upper surface and CA'd some rod in for the struts. I made them over-sized, used the struts as tweezer holders and painted them with Revell 382 with my old brush, and varnished them. I love acrylic paint, as the whole process only took an hour! I then cut out a piece of plastic the correct size for the struts, held it next to the strut and used my side-cutters to trim the struts to length. They were then CA'd to the wing underside (making sure the floats were the right way round!). Finally I added the engine (minus prop) to the fuselage, and here is where she is at at the moment: I still need to finish the prop - I still may replace it with an injection moulded one yet, and I still have a lot more rigging to add, but the Burgess-Dunne is nearly done now! Thanks for looking and all your comments, Ray PS, You can really see where I need to improve my skills when it comes to filling/repairing rigging exit holes! I was rather scared that if I was too energetic cleaning up the scars I was going to crush the plane...
  2. Sanger Blackburn Iris

    Excellent work again BB. The more I see the more I like the idea of building wings and complex tailplanes 'off-site' so to speak. You seem to have much more control over the situation. Ray
  3. Hello all, and a huge thank you to all who wished me luck! Well, I bit the bullet, cut the tape and gently eased out the wooden block, and after a 'heart-in-mouth' moment when the masking tape stuck to one of the leg struts, I found that the operation had gone according to plan, and I had a free float. Phew! It was then but the work of a few minutes to get the final four struts measured and fitted, and I found I had this: I let that set for a couple of days, then got the struts painted up, Humbrol 29 Dark Earth followed by a coat of Revell Clear Orange to tie in with the ski colours. Then it was time to rig that thing. I used the copper core from speaker cable. I had a number of lengths of that already cut, so I ran a black Sharpie pen over the wires to colour them black and then I wrapped the far ends round a couple of pairs of tweezers and pulled them taut, stretching the wire. When I cut them off the tweezers, I had a series of very straight wires. I always used to roll the wire under a ruler, but that did not seem to work well straightening. I used my new dividers (with a dial to adjust their width) and measured out the appropriate sizes and then fitted them with a dab of Glue'N'Glaze to secure them. My old dividers had a locking screw, but they never seemed to lock solid, and they kept closing when I least expected it - I know it was my fault because they only closed when I was using them! Here it is now: I have not fitted every wire to the floats and struts, but I have just given a representation of the complexity that there is. I also think the float may not be truly lined up, as the aircraft does sit slanted to the left - or it may be heavier that side! All the strut lengths and rigging lengths were identical for each opposite position. I have also taken my first steps with the radiators. On the model they are supplied as open-backed, and I needed to cover that up, so: I backed them with some 5thou card. There is some etched detail on the radiators that should become visible with a bit of paint, but hopefully my plan will be to add a filler cap each and connect 'pipes' top and bottom which connect the two across the fuselage. Hopefully progress will be a bit quicker now. Thanks for looking and the encouragement again, Ray
  4. Fabulous progress Ian! That is great work on the wings, although it does seem odd committing such delicate plastic to such a heavy looking device! It obviously works though! Ray
  5. Made in Britain II (The Sequel) Chat

    Thanks for that Col. I hope all is well with you and yours. Ray
  6. Internet help please!

    Thanks Gaz for the reply, I have disabled the wi-fi except for a half hour (I cannot work out how to switch it of totally), so with the other adjustments I too hope I have blocked them out. Cheers, Ray
  7. Internet help please!

    Hello all, can someone please give me some advice? I recently found that some creature had hacked into my broadband. I usually use a monstrous 3.4gb per month, but last month the reading showed 47gb! Now, I do not stream or download films, music etc, so became rather concerned, especially as I will have to pay for going over my allowance. I contacted my supplier, who asked me to change the password on the router. I have done that, I have also changed the Access Key and set Power Save to allow wi-fi for only half an hour a day, and will now connect through a wire any other time. I had found up to 5 devices 'connected' and I have set them to operate for only 30 minutes on the Access panel - I have not found out how to disconnect them. I have also taken to manually powering off the router which would disrupt (and hopefully disconnect) any other users. My internet security has sent updates about the 'KRACK' wi-fi issue and suggests setting up a VPN - whatever that is. My Broadband supplier has asked me to contact them after 10 days to check the usage and if needs be report it to their security. Have I done all I can to cut these creatures out of my system? Any advice (please bear in mind I am a tyro when it comes to computers) will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Ray
  8. Hello all! Now I am getting to the bit that has had me puzzling away for weeks, the main float. I agree Ian! I completed the skis by giving them a coat of Revell Aqua Clear Orange, but to be honest I am not sure if it made a difference. I then drilled in some mounting points along the top of the skis, four for each ski, and then came the fun bit. I found it very difficult trying to fit the removable wedge to the plane. I tried using masking tape but could not get it tight, and I also had to be careful where I stuck it so it did not interfere with the struts, and also to make sure I did not use too much pressure for fear of collapsing the wing structure. I gave up the first time after about an hour of trying, then came back to it a couple of days later. I have decided to fit the two fore and aft struts first, then remove the wedge once the struts have dried, then fit the four midship struts afterwards. After I fitted the wedge and taped that up as tightly and as true as I could get, I then taped the float to the wedge, and crossed my fingers! I have now started to add the float struts - I have used .8mm rod, I filed one end down a bit on each strut, and added them to their location holes. Sounds easy, doesn't it? Yeah, right. I found that the tape still pushed the struts out slightly, but I solved that by pressing the tape back down onto the wedge. I found that the tweezers would not hold the rod securely - even a slight touch on the end of the strut made the tweezers lose grip. The glue would not grab quickly enough, even CA. The usual modelling things. I tried a new pair of dividers to get the size of the struts right, these have a central dial so I can adjust the size accurately and then they stay at that setting which is a bonus. I trimmed the struts just slightly over-length and then made minor adjustments until they were just fractionally too large, and that then gave some grip for the CA to finally work. I kept giving the float the Mk1 eyeball test for level-ness, and it looks reasonable to me so far. So there we are at the moment. This is proving to be a tricky model to build, but that is why I love doing Vacforms. I think I will try something simpler next time, maybe my Aeroclub Felixstowe. Well, thanks for dropping by and all your comments, always appreciated. Cheers, Ray PS, I hope to have removed the bit of wood successfully by next time I post, so wish me luck please.
  9. Sanger Blackburn Iris

    Brilliant work, and great way of dealing with the wings! Ray
  10. Hello all! I have started the rigging now, but I am taking it slowly just at the moment. I am using EZ-Line, I had wondered about using fishing line but I need to do some quite complex runs and am not convinced it would work well. The EZ-Line I find is pretty good to use, but even that I find has issues. It does seem a bit inconsistent in diameter, and I find it can curl quite badly at times, but not at others. Yesterday for example I cut out six bits for the cross-bracing, and three were really curly, but the others were perfect! I find that the line will not always thread through the rigging holes, and it tends to stick to a pair of clean tweezers at times too with is occard. On the other hand, it sticks to CA like a limpet, and usually rapidly too. Anyway, I started on the cross-bracing on one wing yesterday, successfully threaded the line though and secured with CA on the top wing, then threaded it through the lower wing, attached a peg to the line and let gravity do it's job, pulling the line taut before CA'ing it tight. The peg produces an interesting pendulum effect which made positioning the CA interesting, and was doubled when I had two pegs fitted! I needed to be careful putting the plane down when pegs were attached, as I did not want it to do a wing-over and go into an irretrievable flat spin into the depths of the carpet way below! After a while, I reinforced the CA spots with more, then trimmed the excess line with a fresh razor blade, always fraught with danger - you always hope the CA has done it's job and you are not left with a saggy line. Today I did the other side so all cross bracing is done and trimmed and taut. I have also started on the float. I used some flat plastic strip to form the skis which sit on top of the float, and formed the upturned front around a Sharpie pen which seemed to be the right size, then attached them after marking the position out on the float. There is a raised section midships on the skis, and they were added with some excess that had been trimmed from the skis earlier. I then painted the float, I used Revell 382 Wood Brown acrylic. I found that I had forgotten to properly clean one of my wide, flat brushes. I used this one and painted the float, brushing a couple of times while the paint was still wet, and it ended up reasonably well I think. I gave the float a couple of coats, then a covering of brush painted Satin varnish (Humbrol 135 acrylic) to seal it in. The skis have got an initial coat of Dark Earth H29 at the moment, but I will give that a coat of Clear Orange when I get some, hopefully Tuesday. Phoenix, my plan is to cut out a suitable spacer of balsa wood, tape the plane and float with wedge in between, then add the float struts, then remove the wedge. Thankfully there is a taper, the float slopes downwards forward, so it should be able to be pulled out without destroying the struts. The cross brace rods just above the float seen in the photo will be added if this goes according to plan. If I am making an error with this assumption, can someone please let me know! I will not be getting to that point for a few days, so there is time to re-think! It will be fabulous to see you do a wheeled version, the plans I have show it to be somewhat...complex! All the best everyone, and thanks for the comments again, they are always really appreciated. Ray
  11. Fab! I have to admit I love building these old kits too, and having just been given a copy of a book called 'Buccaneer Boys' this type may well be on my radar soon too! Great result, Ray
  12. Italeri DO-24

    Hello John, nice choice. There is something about these Dornier flying boats that is rather aesthetic I think. Fabulous looking aircraft, but I still have not built one despite liking how they look. I will look forward to seeing yours progress. All the best, Ray
  13. Hello all! I decided to crack on with this after lunch, rather than let it set overnight. I measured up the cabane struts and fitted them into place, initially using a dab of PVA then fixing securely with CA when they were aligned 'correctly'. I lined them up on the centre-line of the wing (it is incredibly obvious) and then found that the centre-line was slightly offset, despite looking spot on from above. I still cannot work it out! I had drawn the centre-line rib so I knew where it was, but it is still offset. I then trimmed the side planes and got them fitted between the upper and lower wingtips, thankfully the gapping was just about spot on, so only one side needed a modicum of persuasion: It all seems fairly robust, but hopefully tomorrow I will be able to start rigging, I am planning on using EZ-Line for that so it should be straightforward, as long as I have not accidentally glued up the rigging holes! Thanks for looking, and all the kind comments and suggestions. Ray PS - I have a plan for attaching the centre float and struttery, I will let you know if it works or not, but that is likely to be a few days yet.
  14. Hello all! I was able to mark off the rigging points after carefully placing the whole lot upside down, and drilled them out this morning. Then, heart firmly in mouth, swear box ready to go, and my good lady safely out of the house, it was time to glue the top wing to the struts! I re-checked the fit of the struts, found four which firmly made contact with the upper wing, and bravely put some CA gel onto said struts, and with a nervous tic, a quivering disposition, and shaky hands, tried to accurately position the struts where they should go! There was just enough wiggle time to make some minor corrections (those struts are really wobbly!) before the CA set. I gave it a few minutes, then CA'd all the struts with some medium CA for a bit of solidity (I hope). This has raised a few issues, but I have to admit they are ones I am not going to address. Like Limeypilot (Ian), I found that the wing ribs were not in the right places when trying to match up the top and lower wings. I am not sure where the problem lies as a set square shows the wing tips are correctly aligned to each other, but the ribs are not. This meant that some struts are attached to the top wing where there are no ribs. I also seem to have marked off the control surfaces incorrectly, as one strut is placed on that. That is definitely my error though as when I masked off to produce the span-wise rib, I masked too far inboard from the trailing edge - it is obvious now I look at it closer, so lesson learnt. Thankfully when I marked off the strut locations first off, I did them on the lower wings, so from a normal viewing angle they will look okay, but not if you look from below wing level. I will be leaving this to set overnight before I try and turn it upright. Thanks for looking, Ray. PS - The swear box remained empty, and no inanimate (or animate) objects were damaged in the course of this construction stage!
  15. Clyde Puffer

    Fantastic Kev, and a veritable mine of scratchbuilding information from the original build thread too - very many thanks for showing us the way! Ray
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