This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

  • Announcements

    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Ray S

Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,092 Excellent

About Ray S

  • Rank
    Ray S
  • Birthday 01/04/16

Contact Methods

  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Forest of Dean, UK
  • Interests
    Ships mainly, but will build almost anything I find interesting. Recently tried scratchbuilding again - it was fun!

Recent Profile Visitors

2,435 profile views
  1. Hello Kev, that sounds a good idea, I will give it a go. It will be some twhile before I need to attach it so will have plenty of time to practice. I think I may be able to get some very thin gold wire from Hobbycraft, I will check it out Saturday. Thanks for the help, Ray
  2. Hello Martian, I hereby promise I will not lose sleep! I will be going down the epoxy route when the time comes and I will tape the ship down while the stuff sets (if I remember!). Another thing I forgot was something near the rear of the ship - I should have extended the skinning round after all for two reasons: There was a step where the skinning stopped and the deck, which my filler did not level out There should have been some depth to the hull under the deck vertically, whereas I had represented it as being sloped I tidied up the area then fitted some 20 thou plastic strip around the rear of the hull and fitted it with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, and it bonded really well considering it had only a 20 thou deck to stick to. I had already started the tidying up the filler from yesterday, thankfully the Milliput had set okay. I used Perfect Plastic Putty to start smoothing it out, and have also now started to build up the contours properly. Now a request for advice if I may: The plan shows what appears to be scroll-work on the transom. The detail is rather vague, but does anyone have any ideas on how to try and replicate this sort of thing? I am not too worried about accuracy, but just something close would do. You can also see what I mean about the depth to the hull under the stern decking. Thanks for looking, Ray
  3. NEW

    Yes Mike, keep up the good work, and I hope you and the team can get it sorted! Thanks, Ray
  4. Hi Paul, I tried the centreline first method with Ophir, but that one bowed too - maybe I am using too thin a base plate. I agree with the bowing being hidden, that will also come about as when I fitted the second skinning, it went below the current level of the bottom of the hull, so disguises it even more. Thanks for the tip though Hello Morty, thanks for that about Isopon 38, I have had good results with that too in the past (tried once only) but I have run out at the mo, and I am on a bit of a budget. Murdo, I do get a good idea every now and again! However, I also have a tendency to create 'oops' moments too - for example: Well, my planning idea soon went out of the window!!! I fitted the deck after suitable fettling, and it fitted like a dream, except for the starboard bow area where there was a bit of a gap. Later on, at about 2.30am I was having difficulty sleeping and I almost sat bolt upright with the thought 'I did not fit the bolt nuts into the hull to attach the ship to the baseplate or even drill the holes'! Doh... I have trimmed down the surplus plastic from above the deck, but it still needs a bit more to make it really neat, the starboard bow gap has been filled with Perfect Plastic Putty, and a vertical rod of 30 thou square plastic is now attached to the bow, again oversized as it looks like it goes all the way to the top of the bow 'bulwarks'. I have also done the first lot of Milliput to the aft area, this is a bit rough at the moment (I have said that before methinks) but last time I was able to neaten it up with a couple of layers of PPP. I know Kev (Longshanks) suggested once before about using wood for this area, but I am hesitant as I am not sure how to blend it in to the plastic and with what. I will try on another project though. I have tested the hull, and she does NOT become a rudder sitter despite the weight of filler. I just have to wait now for it to set, and hope I mixed it properly. Thanks for looking, Ray
  5. Hello Clipper, those look they are interesting, I will check them out. Thanks for the suggestions, Ray
  6. Hi Kev, I could not describe my methods any better than that! More muddling done, but I am gradually learning too. I skinned the hull sides with 10 thou card, and fixed it with Humbrol Liquid Poly. I cut the card over-sized on purpose, with the idea of cutting it down later. I did not cut enough to curve around the transom as I have decided to fill that area with Milliput later on. This skinning was quite thin, and I found that the plastic marked very easily - it was affected both by a pair of tweezers and my fingers when I tried to get the skinning to adhere to the underlying plastic, and it also partially melted with the glue I had used. I did not think that using filler to smooth over the imperfections would be any good, so I re-skinned with 20 thou on top of the 10, so the breadth of the ship may now be over scale! Probably the least of the issues concerning accuracy on this one! This second layer really does give a better finish, so for future use, I will remember to use 20 thou for skinning straight off. I have only done one side so far and am letting it dry properly before the second side. In the meantime, I prepared the deck. This appears to be one long piece, so I cut out a spare copy of the deck plan and stuck it to some 20 thou card with a Pritt Stick, then gradually trimmed the deck out continually checking with the hull to ensure it fitted reasonably well. Having done that, the plan just peeled off in one piece - learning lesson for this is if you want to remove a paper plan for your plastic use a Pritt Stick! It was well stuck when I was doing all the work on the deck but came off easily. I have now put a second layer on the deck plate, 20 thou .75mm V-Groove to represent the deck planking. This needs a few final adjustments before fitting to the hull. I have also fitted some plastic tubing into the hull and braced it with more plastic and plenty of glue to accept the masts later, having checked the rake and all angles to ensure they will be in the correct orientation. I drilled down through the tube to create holes in the bottom of the hull, so when I attach the deck I can re-drill up the tubes to get through the deck in the right places! That is it for now, thanks for looking and the comments, Ray
  7. Hello Paul, this is doing well. I think the railings solution is excellent, great work on designing the stanchions, and very nicely applied to the superstructure. Ray
  8. Hello Dave, thanks for that link, it looks like there will be some issues for me doing an 'accurate' rendition of the scheme (not withstanding any accuracy issues with my scratchbuilding!). This will be a project for the future. Thanks for taking the time to post the links through, it looks to be a goldmine of schemes! All the best, Ray
  9. Hello all! Today has been a good day. Went to B&Q and managed to get some bolts, nuts and washers which fit inside the bulkheads, and that will allow me to fix this solidly to the base a bit later on. I have managed to get all the bulkheads fitted bar one (the rearmost and it does not touch the waterline so will fit under the deck later). This is an area which really shows my hamfistedness/inability to measure correctly (delete as required). The bulkheads are slightly out at various points along the length of the hull. I had been thinking about skinning the hull. On two previous ships I have done, the skinning left pronounced (to me) ridges in the hull where they were not equal and where the curve of the lines took place. So, how to solve this? My first thought was to pack out the sections between the fore/aft strengthening strips I has added and where the skinning would go, so I practiced with my Polyfiller at the fore cavity, rear area and in the middle box sections to see how it would work and sand: I did not like this idea after a while, so I had idea number 2 - use card to create the lines instead. A lot of this was quite straightforward, as the strip was quite flat, but at the bow I needed to bend in some curves with a probe handle and thumb. I used the Extra Thin Cement again and it works a treat. As you can see, this is still very rough, but it is all stuck in quite well, and will get sanded over the next few days. This does not need to be too neat, just enough to allow me to skin with 10 thou card later on, so that will hopefully prevent the ribbing effect. Another thing you can see is the bowing that is already occurring on the hull form, it is now looking like a banana, hence the need to bolt this to the baseplate! Thankfully I can get one of the bolts very close to the bow, and use two part epoxy as a backup. I think the Pollyfiller will be able to be got out from the stern, and I think I will try to carve the aft section from wood or use Miliput like I did with Ophir. Thanks for looking, Ray
  10. Cheers Dave, I did actually remember about the rake - probably a first! - I will need to trim the centre of two of the bulkheads as they are in the way but will do that later when it is set solid. When I did my last scratchbuild I did the baseplate to the correct size, but somewhere along the line things did not work out quite right and had a few errors, so by making this oversize I will trim it down and hopefully not have the same issues. Yes, I too thought the scale was odd, 1/293 would have been so much better considering Revell and their scaling history (other brands also contributed). 1/300 is so...? neat, predictable? Thanks Kev! Cheers, Ray
  11. Hello all! After a prolonged episode of life getting in the way of our real purpose of being (i.e. building models), I have finally gotten a start on this, and also solved a problem. First up, the problem. I found the scale on the plans! This of course does not bode well for my reading/interpreting of said plans... The pencil is pointing to the scale;- the scale mark is 2cm long and represents 6 meters, so I am working at 1/300 scale, so Kev was pretty much spot on when he said 1/293. I suspect my measuring contributed to the difference! I drew out the bulkheads on tracing paper, then realised I had forgotten to take into account the waterline. That was another good start, wasn't it! So I marked on the plan a line 2.5mm below the waterline, which hopefully will allow a bit of leeway when I fit the ship to the base, then redrew the bulkheads along a datum line. I then transferred these to a sheet of 30 thou card by retracing the one half, turning over the paper then doing the same from the other side of the paper, ideally making the part symmetrical. Again I did this all along a datum line I had drawn on the plastic sheet. I cut the parts out with a pair of Fiskars haberdasher scissors which did a great job, and left only minimal sanding to final shape. I then cut out a slightly oversized (!) base plate, then taped it to the plan as accurately as possible to be parallel to the bulkhead guide and marked on the bulkhead lines and numbers onto the baseplate (which again was 30 thou card). Then it was time for some gluing! I started fitting some of the bulkheads at the front end, attaching them with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. I have only just started using this product, and I was amazed at how quickly it set and produced a good solid bond. I then cut some more card and started to build up a lattice-work do add some extra solidity to the hull. I have marked on the baseplate where the masts will need to go, as I intend to put some tube in place to accept the brass masts later in the build, and I also want to fit some nuts in so I can bolt this one to a wooden base later. The lattice work looks a bit ragged at the moment, but it will be tidied up later when it is all finished and good and solid. It is not much of an update, but at least I have now started and hopefully will have plenty of time over the next few weeks to get really stuck in! All advice will be greatly appreciated, so thanks for looking, Ray
  12. Hi Kev, I rarely fail to learn something from your builds - I had tried the same approach of making two parts at once, but never thought about CA'ing them together lightly to make sure they do not slip! I just tried to hold the pieces together. On my next one I will use your idea. The 'gunsight' idea is good too, another for my memory bank. Looking forward to seeing more soon, Ray
  13. We used to live in Meteor Row in Leuchars, right under where the Lightnings went vertical. You could see right up their jet pipes. The sound cracked one of our windows, and every morning they would bring back our TV aeriel. One of these facts is fake. One of my life long memories, no wonder I love the Lightning. Good work on this one. Look forward to seeing more. Ray
  14. Hi Dave, I am thinking waterline and trying a different way to do 'water'. But then again, I was thinking of adding a wood (rather than plastic) keel on the basis that it would be easier to carve/sand to shape. Choices choices! Cheers, Ray. WATERLINE! Under full canvas too.
  15. Kev, this is looking good so far! How did you do the hull? You said 'bread and butter' style - is it just thick slabs of plastic stacked up then sanded to shape or did you use bulkheads and lay the plastic over them? I know it is probably a silly question... Great to see you getting into scratchbuilding a civilian vessel too, Bob will be happy there are three of us joining him now! Look forward to seeing more, Ray