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About krow113

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  • Birthday 01/09/1961

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  1. A GOTHA

    Thanks Michael. Some more AM for this kit. I already have a gunsight for the Becker in p/e , I've left it and some other tiny details off the weapon until I fell certain they wont get knocked off. When I saw these offerings from Gaspatch , I immediately ordered , mostly because Gaspatch stuff is very well done and I have never been unsatisfied , and I always pile up options whenever I can in order to have choices. Vane sights: And these machine guns , first time I've ever heard of them: I want to continue the different weapons situation on my Gotha and would like more info on these machine guns and whether they would be appropriate for the model. Anyone? I am also going to see an older German gent here on my island , get some translation done for the upcoming engine work.

    G , m' man! How are you! Richard thank you. Francis , thanks , I do think there is a .015" gap in the model that shows up in various places depending on how the model is built! Some small details added to the front end a s I contemplate the paint procedure: And to address one of the , if not the major , point of contention with the model, the rear ramp raising and lowering cable. The instructions are vague as to how to go about this , holes need to be drilled in the ramp panels sides and there is no mark for them. The modeller is left to find out themselves how to do it. Looking at the parts and imagining how the ramp works is my first step. My mechanical experience helped to figure this procedure out. First step is to assemble the tiny pulleys. Then 2 off .5mm holes have to be drilled at 90 degrees to each other , so that the cable can go around the pulley. The exit hole from the pulley to the main body must be drilled inside the small block molded into the pulley assy. The block is a guide for the cable , retaining it in the 90 degrees turn the cable makes in the pulley assy. Hard to describe and so tiny pics hardly help. The pulley assy would be live and able to 'hinge' on the ramp , as the ramp lowers , the pulley assy will rotate to allow free movement of the cable. There is no positive mounting for the pulley assy on the model , it kinda just sits there , like they couldn't figure out how to do it. I f you have the ramp open , you must orient the pulley assy accordingly. After drilling the pulley to accept the cable, you can install a small piece of cable and offer the pully up to the ramp. The small cable end will point directly to the area where the hole must be drilled in the ramp side as per the instructions. Take your time and be familiar with the action of the cable , pulley and ramp before drilling the holes. Understanding the way the ramp works is key to this. I hope these pics help to clarify , the parts are so small: Of course , all of this is only relevant if the ramp is open or down. Thanks for lookin'!
  3. 1/8th scale accessories

    Dollhouse suppliers may have some things. Other wise you might have to model some.
  4. Theres only 26 or so... A laser can do this or knife cutter. I'm at the start of my laser learning curve , but have done this sort of work with my Ioline cutter . Its a little hard on the cutter , but piling up copies of the file on top of each other will allow the cutter to work its way through rather than pushing the tools parameter trying to get through in one or two goes. Liking the Stirling.
  5. Silhouette Cutter

    When this work is done its helpful to make a number of copies of the work, pile them all on top of each other and send it to the cutter that way. The cutter will work its way through the plastic slowly and all that's left is a 'snap-off' , like a vac kit.

    Thank you Francis. The figs are looking very bluish on here , they are less than that in reality. Grey drybrushing next. Full on assy of the hull commenced , not being armour oriented I opted for wheels and all of the bigger pieces to be added. I'll figure out paint work as I go. I've left off the grab handles and smaller bits. You can see the exceptional fit of the kit and the small gap I created in the pics: *******ATTENTION GAP PIC TO FOLLOW , IF YOU HAVE A WEAK STOMACH TIME TO MAKE TEA.************** All of the joined edges will have cool Archer weld lines put in, the kit has delicate weld lines in some areas , I feel they are underrepresented , and def need to be added to these joined areas. Real happy with the result Edit: Cant leave it like that , I'm getting nauseous just looking at it. A strip of .015" plasticard settles my stomach:
  7. Be wary of MisterKit. I ordered $60.00 worth of paint for my Gotha. It was sent to the wrong address and my money was kept. MKit no longer responds to over a year of emails , and blames me ( how convenient) for their sending of the order to the wrong address. Truth.
  8. Hard to imagine a vessel of that size 'falling' 2 miles .
  9. Corel Draw vs Photoshop

    This is how they all work. If this works , and it does , how much better can it be? The next step is going to masks and spraying the markings.
  10. A GOTHA

    Masking strips cut to cover the walkways during the upcoming plywood work :
  11. Norton Kit?

    Paint it an iron metal color. Wash with a greasy black , some of the engine weathering kits have this. Drybrush with chrome silver. That should do it. Good luck and post some pics !
  12. Corel Draw vs Photoshop

    Corel & PS are overkill for decal work. Corel is an imaged based program and I use it for that, for vector work I have SignLab. But model work is secondary on these programs I have for my signwork. Whatever is easiest to use , in-home , is best for hobby work , free downloads of programs sound good!

    End of the day. Equipment array: Figs to the first sealer , a clear flat coat tomorrow to seal in the paint to date: Thanks for lookin'!

    Marine progression:
  15. Hawker (Siddeley) Reference thread

    Excellent compendium. Thank you.