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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".


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About krow113

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  • Birthday 01/09/61

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  1. Eagles Talon did them I believe Jessica. I've seen one set in 15 years, good luck. FSM had an article on scratchbuilding 'Balls 8 ' Best of luck!
  2. Where we are today:
  3. Thanks BD. Second backdrop in:
  4. Okay fill yer boots. What you say makes absolutely no sense to me. The OP is asking about pre-1963 , pretty sure there were no 'sticky letters' which are actually called self adhesive vinyl that point. The earliest examples being die-cut. I've never heard of any of the methods you describe! I am actually thinking of race car decoration, I see that the OP is asking about licence plates and the link provides the relevant info. I would be a little wary of the links info as well. its a private site for making money , not a reference site by any means. Check with the relevant gov departments if possible. Your problem is more along the lines of the difficulty in recreating the stamped letters , the metal plate being cast with the numbers or stamped out of sheet metal. This means the letters are raised and then prolly screened for the color. When I did my bobber plate I used thin brass sheet and tried to emboss the letters and was not able to without having to make a lot of tooling . I did manage to do the border edge and used vinyl letters to simulate the raised lettering. The info on 1940's California license plate dimensions and materials was provided by an ex California Highway Patrolman from Highway Dept files. So I'm sure you can find info for the period you need. It seems materials , manufacturing procedure etc changed over the decades being looked at here. "Pre-'63" may not be enough to fine tune the info you need. Also British vehicles carried a 'registration' number AND a licence plate , looking at bikes we see the reggy number on the fender , the plate displayed to the rear of the vehicle. Dig a little deeper.
  5. Remember these would most likely have been hand -painted by a sign writer , you know before the computer destroyed the craftsmanship and creativity in the sign industry. The sign writers of the day would have their own stylized fonts and 'signature' work. Too perfect ,as done by the soul draining computer , may look out of place.
  6. Thanks BillyD HO/OO its the same right? Backdrop in place and tree planting starts , only 300 to go: Buildings ongoing:
  7. Buildings begin: Building base's were installed previously , buildings will be painted and embedded in situ , after a few more are installed.
  8. As part of the tourist trap I have set up. I finally got the preliminary wiring and layout done. The basic groundwork is in play: ...buildings , peeps , dogs , cats ,deer , cows , etc , to come!
  9. I like the lead sheet , but even ordinary paper can be used. On some figs I used 1/72 p/e seat belts for helmet straps.
  10. Super!
  11. Primary drive inner chaincase gets mounted , not forgetting the shift lever off the tranny and the pully and belt: I can assemble in this fashion , having done the work on real bikes. One tip that is not shown , but allows the work to follow this procedure , is that Harley oil buckets in the Softail series of bikes are made to unbolt and swing out the right side of the bike , negating the removal of oil lines and draining of the tank unnecessarily. Here is the starter in place and you can see the hole for the positive lead from the battery to come: You will also see the shift lever in place, the shift rod is not attached as it can be added later and I dont want it flopping around bouncing off of other parts , which also can happen on the real bikes. Screws all went in nicely , but I caution again about the force required , it is minimal and when you feel resistance stop immed. 1 hour. Wheel prep begins with plating scraped off the inner surfaces , and small holes drilled on the landings for the valve stems: I almost didnt want to paint the wheel centers , I've seen without , it looks ok but diligence dictates it should be done. One thing influencing my decision was the flaws evident in the rear wheel halves. Upon close inspection they are not very good , with a lot of small marks and lumps. Look closely at the top wheel pic , at 9 o'clock there is a flaw right on the wheel edge. Pretty crappy Tamiya!
  12. I used a few parts from one of these for my Hillclimber , the rims were recast in metal and the kit tires were needed as knobbys are scarce in that scale.
  13. Nice review. Thank you. On the am subject sometimes there is the feeling that a/m stuff HAS to be used. This is not the case with the newer kits , everything is there for the hobby modeller. OTT types will ALWAYS have to add more. I saw a kit a few years ago 'vetted' by an a/m manufacturer. The kit came out AFTER THE A/M MANUFACTURER had already released a number of correction sets for the kit! Collusion came to mind... That kind of crap ensured I never bought the kit or any of the manufacturers stuff. On my Gotha build I bought ALL of the available a/m , I'll MAYBE use 30% of it , the rest is not up to my standard. Other a/m stuff gets sold even though it is impossible to get to work , p/e flying wires come to mind. Myself and a few others from my club bought huindreds of dollars of that crap and none of us ended up using it. It has VERY limited applications. The problem with the internet is yer not allowed to say anything bad for fear of retribution from 'save the world' types , but if something is un-workable then that should be put out for public consumption as well as the kudo's.
  14. Some assy order to maintain sanity! No tricks here just following the instructions , I did get all the cylinder plates on , getting them outta the way. The front and rear anti-lock brake device's are mounted as well. The oil filter went into place as well with 3 bushings not 4. My only real pain here was some sloppy threading on part # ME6 , the long front engine mounting rod. The threads on one end accepted a nut fairly easily , but the other end would not. After repeated grinding and filing the nut refused to start threading. I finally got a few threads started and then the rod started to bend , the prelude to breaking.I straightened the nut as best as possible and got it done. A 5 minute engine mounting procedure turned into an hour : Missing chrome bolt head found and reglued. 1 hour.