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krow113

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About krow113

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 01/09/61

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    https://www.facebook.com/Wingnut-Wings-Builders-Page-1297118540352413/

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    Male
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    BRITISH COLUMBIA

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  1. A GOTHA RETURNS

    Michael , B23 ; Thank you. The camo pattern will be laid out in Corel or SignLab . I have a Roland sp300 digital print/cut machine so I can print a color number or the color onto the vinyl masking material then cut the polygon shapes. This entire large mask will then be applied to the part and individual colored/numbered polygon masks can be removed and replaced as I work through the colors. This is how I have envisioned the work going. I have seen separate masks for each color but applying each one for each color seems problematic , having to line the large mask up each time to applied colors.....hhhmmm. Also 'hot mix' will be used for the colors so they will be tough and stuck down well to the light blue ,first color , basecoat. D|ifferent clears will be used to help with representing the flat - gloss paints used for the : 5 color , hand painted , night camouflage on mid war G IV bombers. Michael you can see the boxy shapes of the Gotha hex layout here, they can be used for the polygonal layout of the Gotha but the curved shapes of the AEG would need a new set made. This is a pen on paper rendering.
  2. The Big Red Lo

    knuts & Kev; Thank you. The fork paint is all Alclad products , black primer , gloss black and aqua clear. The last coats being a mix of 50/50 gloss clear/gloss black. A painters trick from way back to get that deep gloss black finish. I'm thinking of trying some of the powders and wax's for the chrome finish , but have not used any of them yet , anyone have experience with the chrome powder or the wax's? I have Uschi and some chrome powders to try , anyone used this stuff? When I built this model; out of Italeri's Harley kit , I was lucky enough to have access to original service and parts manuals. This was a great help in the detail dept. especially the wiring and the fabrication of stock parts like the headlight /horn mount. Having lost that access I have had to go to a site: https://www.motorcycle-manual-download.com/ I downloaded a service manual and parts manual for the 2013 FLSTFB Lo . Already the benefits have shown up with the pics and descriptions and photos and drawings of the electrical components that are not included in the model. Engine sensors are easily made and installed now. Brake line and speed sensors for the brakes and speedometer are available as well as the wire and cable routing info. The two books , downloaded in PDF files ,came to $ 58.00 CDN , which is a deal , considering Harley service manuals are in the $150.00 range for a hard copy. So an accy kit or detail set can be developed , which will have some parts that can be used to up the level of detail in the wiring and cables etc , including the clutch cable adjuster cover that no-one has seemed to notice is missing... Much perusing ahead.
  3. Top 1/8 kits of all times

    Thanks. No never heard of a kit of that bike , I favour the Harley's and English bikes. A number of Protar kits as well , someJapanese, just because those kits are so iconic. Had the Commando , a 750 Combat , so the one kit of that is cool. Numerous Harleys.
  4. Top 1/8 kits of all times

    On two wheels: 1/8 - 1/9 who's counting...
  5. Hi, Steve,

    Thought this was worrth asking......While I'm ready to move forward and begin work on the Gotha, I have slowly been working on an AEG that will have the hexagonal camo. Would you be willing to share the file you have to make it? I have a Silhouette Portrait cutter, which have yet to use, but am am not interested inusing decals and I am determined to get this camo. right.

     

    No worries, if not.

     

    Cheers from NYC,

    Michael

     

    IMG_4942.jpg

    1. krow113

      krow113

      Michael I have no prob doing that except the masks are laid out for the gotha shapes. I have no time to do an aeg layout right now.I have the aeg kit as well and would use their hex decals as they are very good and are made for the kit. I suggest using those as thata is what I would do. 

      Sorry!

    2. Michael Scarborough

      Michael Scarborough

      No worries.....I didn't realize they were different sizes! Many thanks for considering it, however! The AEG is down the line so I will stick with the Gotha, at bench and in brain, for now.

       

      Cheers!

    3. krow113

      krow113

      Yes the wing and fuse shapes are very different , the aeg has more curved shapes the gotha more boxy shapes.

      sometime down the road maybe...

  6. The Big Red Lo

    Another small sub assy gets its due. Holes were drilled in the terminal blocks , these batteries have alternate cable mounting capability. The battery has the warning decal applied and a thick clear coat on top of it, as well as the terminals picked out in Humbrol stinky silver then washed with smoky black to bring up detail: I have limited time for modelling right now , it should be better after the hols. 1 hour.
  7. A GOTHA RETURNS

    Michael , Thank you. Yes Umoter is one of the good ones. He was who I was referring to regarding some of the reference pics of Gotha type engines. I was also lucky enough to get one of his cutting jigs , a very nice piece of modelling equipment: I have a tentative layout procedure in the works for my Gotha's camo scheme , first up will be a mask set for the fuse and lower mid wing assy. The polygonal pattern will be along the lines of this: Obligatory gratuitous bench shot in lieu of non-existant progress input: Stay tuned!
  8. A GOTHA RETURNS

    Thanks Michael; Yes you can see in the following shots the Taurus parts for the engine as well as the HGW p/e set .The p/e set is ok but I'll replace 'flat' oil lines with rod or pipe. There will also be a lot of scratchbuilding on one engine as one will be without the covers. There are not a lot of pics of GIV's with the polygonal camo. I don't need a triple stack of references anyway to have some fun. There is a GIV pic on page 50 of Gotha! with the polygonal camo. Good enough for me! There is documented descriptions of the camo , when it was deployed on the planes and the colors. With so many diff descriptions of this type of camo its easy to try and layout the scheme. Reading the available info and reading between the lines is needed , as the exact details of the layouts were long gone with the actual persons who did the hand-layout on the planes. Using other sources is a good idea and keep an open mind. I recently acquired WNW's AEG kit. In that kit are great pics of the interior bomb rack employed in WW1 German bombers. WNW did not include these pics in the Gotha kit, Why not? Its the same rack ! I was left to come up with details on the bomb rack myself. Now I see a lot more in the AEG's instructions pics. GV pics are a lot more available , in Gotha! and elsewhere, I'll put in as much as I can as I go through the model stages for the work that I do. I would have supercharged the engines if I could have found more pics , but there are not enough to see all of the components of the blower. Des' WW1 aircraft forum is a good source as well , there are European modellers on that site who have access to the museums and collections for more info, especially for the engines. Good luck with the GV conversion , I have seen it in pics and it looks to be very well done , I would like to do that one day as well , as GV refs are much more complete and the chances to mega detail a kit are there.
  9. A GOTHA RETURNS

    Thanks Michael , good to have you on board. Not much to report. The next step in the instructions is the engines , THEN the engine bearers and lower mid wing assy. I will be reversing those steps , as the wing assy has a similar paint treatment as the front of the fuse. Getting the mid wing and engine areas sorted prior to the engines being built makes sense , then they can plop right into their placements rather than be hanging around waiting for it... Looking at pics in Gotha! I see that the front of the fuse in some examples is what appears to be polished or gloss varnished dark painted plywood. Then just aft of the pilots seat the fuse changes to the camo applied to the rest of the plane. I'll use these examples for my fuse paint work , switching from polished black to the hand painted irregular polygons. I was calling it 'lozenge' but I think that would be incorrect. The polygons are 4 and 5 sided and are literally laid out on the aircraft , presumably by hand , then painted. There are a number of pics in publications of the polygons , I believe the only way to do it is to layout each shape by hand... Anyone have any other suggestion !?
  10. The Big Red Lo

    Some work done as I look at the painted parts . I have the fork legs looking pretty good but the mount for painting was precarious , I decided to assemble the forks for ease of handling , pretty easy assembly taking a few minutes and no problems. I inverted the fork tube and loaded all of the assy parts onto it and dropped the fork leg onto those parts , turn the fork up and drop on the large nut that holds it all together. Push the nut in at least halfway to align it , then turn it home with the supplied wrench , easy does it and it seats nicely. Looking good in gloss black: Masked up and way easier to handle: Way better without the sissy reflectors! 1 hour.
  11. Printer cutter thingy...

    One way to cut plastic card is to duplicate the item 5-6 times and stack them all on top of each other, the machine will cut through the plastic bit by bit. Save on bearing life which will be what goes first on those machines.
  12. WWI Whites were they really Persil bright?

    You'll notice the last paragraph on the first page of every set of WNW instructions .....!
  13. WWI Whites were they really Persil bright?

    Who would have thought that white could be so controversial! It isn't. In todays world everything , even proven facts ,are now open to anyone to interpret however they wish, this is because of the 'no criticism' rule that some how came into existence. Worrying about how white is white or the different shades thereof is a bit of a folly. Especially in the context of WW 1 markings , which are proven to be a minefield of contention. When I did my Biff markings I used Testors Acryl aircraft grey FS16473 , as white would be unrealistic: You can see a little contrast between the linen and the markings. I was happy with this and moved through the color selection without worry . I agree that at 1/32 scale the markings are better represented by masking and painting. Lots of toy cutters available now and circles and straight lines are easy enough to get done. If you hafta use decals , then mix up a translucent 'dirty white ' and downshade the whites , apply it in thin layers until you get what you want. The realisation that there are many ways to achieve the desired work helps to allow the modeller to have an open mind towards new techniques (of which there are few ) in model building.
  14. Chroming chrome & making it look used.

    Never tried the pens yet , have one just waiting for a use for it. For chrome I have used Alclad to good effect. For bikes I recommend a selection of metal finish's as there are a lot of diff metals on bikes. This means you will have to have a spray set up for the proper usage. You don't say what scale or type of bikes...... Here is a 1/9 custom I recently finished All kinds of finish's on that one , from painted to actual; s/s parts, which as the scale goes up , the more real metal can be used. The primary belt guard being fashioned out of polished s/s sheet.
  15. 1/32 harness for Airfix Jag XKR

    Eduard has that I think , or try Hiroboy. I know I found some for the Little Nellie James Bond kit somewhere.
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