Jump to content

Delayar

Members
  • Posts

    307
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Delayar last won the day on January 8 2016

Delayar had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vienna

Recent Profile Visitors

1,753 profile views

Delayar's Achievements

Established Member

Established Member (3/9)

778

Reputation

  1. Hi! I was just looking for some reference pictures, and I found this website of an auction of a VFR750R: https://www.goodingco.com/lot/1988-honda-vfr750r-rc30/ It has very detailed pictures of a bike in very good condition. I don't know how long this will be online, since the auction was only recently. Cheers, Markus
  2. I also mostly use acrylics, out otf the same reasons as you. Only exceptions are alclad metal colours and the 2K gloss coat for cowling parts. And I don't think that is a limitation, you just have to be aware of the differences. It adds a little complexity when using different types of paint over each other. Cheers, Markus
  3. The primer should be smooth, but it doesn't need to be glossy. More on the contrary. Further layers of paint might not adhere to a glossy surface as well as to a non glossy surface. That however also depends on the paint. Lacquer paints might meld to the previous coats (due to the solvents), but acrylics don't as much, especially if the primer is lacquer-based. So it is totally fine to fines-sand the primer to get a smooth base for the actual paints, but polishing is an uneccesary step. BTW: started the same kit a few weeks ago, but it is very slow going, since I lack the time for swift progress. Cheers, Markus
  4. Wow, that is absolutely fantastic. Looks like pictures of the real thing. Kind Regards, Markus
  5. Wow, that is outstanding! Great build so far and an interesting colour scheme. Cheers, Markus
  6. Thanks. I thought about painting the number boards, but in the end I applied the decals, after painting the white and blue. I then clearcoated everything with a thin layer and made careful touch ups with paint, where the decals had cracked or where the underyling colour shone through. It was delicate work, bot it paid off. Here is a picture after the decaling, before the touch ups: Cheers, Markus
  7. Hi! I want to show my latest bike build. It is the Honda NSR 500 in the Rothmans livery, as ridden by Wayne Gardner in 1986. The kit is from Tamiya, with aftermarket decals by Studio27 and muffler springs by Top Studio. It was also a nostalgia build, since this was my first bike model back as teenager in 1988. The WIP is here: And here are a few pictures without the cowling: Cheers, Markus
  8. Impressive detail work and scratchbuilding. Cheers, Markus
  9. Thanks! Here is a picture of the fuel tank hose: Cheers, Markus
  10. The handlebar was assembled, using clear tubing painted green to connect the brake fluid reservoir to the brake lever. Also, attachment points for the throttle cables were added, using soldering lead and vinyl tubing painted silver. Although the front fork has to be attached to the bike after the cowling is attached, I couldn't resist to assemble it without glue for some naked shots of the bike: After making these shots, I made the final assembly, shoehorning the cowling on and attaching the hose from the fuel tank. According to the reference pictures, the hose from the fuel tank goes to the left inner side of the front cowling. I attached two rings of thick vinyl tubing, which hold the hose in place. It cannot be seen in this firt picture of the completed bike, but I will add a picture where this detail can be seen. More pictures soon in the RFI section. Cheers, Markus
  11. In the meanwhile, I made the front fork parts, using bare metal foil to depict the inner fork tubes. The most difficult part of the build are the exhaust. They are not molded perfectly, and it is very hard to get the exactly symmetrical on both sides. I filled the gaps of the straighter tubes with milliput. I didn't bother to fill the gaps of the warped exhausts, since these gaps won't be visible even without the cowling. To get the position of the endtubes right, I carefully heated the parts, and bend them into the correct position. It required a lot of dry fitting, and finetuning. Once I was satisfied with the result, I added weld seams made out of streched sprue. To anchor the muffler springs, I attached lops out of thin wire. The mufflers were wrappen in bare metal foil. The muffler springs are from Top Studio. Cheers, Markus
  12. Motor and rear wheel attached to the frame. I had to shorten the "pins" on the chain part and the rear brake to insert the wheel after the swing arm was assembled. Cheers, Markus
  13. Your attention to detail is amazing! I am looking forward to the end result! Cheers, Markus
×
×
  • Create New...