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Greenshirt

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About Greenshirt

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    Lifelong - long lived!

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    http://greenshirt-modeller.blogspot.com
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  • Location
    Left side of the pond...
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Hurricanes, Martlets, Corsairs, 109's and 190's -- FAA, US Navy and sometimes the Luftwaffe.

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  1. I find PVA needs to fully cure before you try to smooth it with wet/dry. Otherwise it comes off as a goo. For that reason I prefer a clear acrylic like Gators Grip. I believe it may be the same thing as ClearFix.
  2. Yes. I'm not 100% clear on the timing, but I believe the majority of Spitfires (if not all) were delivered with aluminum paint on all interiors, but the cockpit area forward of the seat bulkhead, and aft of the IP, to include both bulkheads, were painted grey-green. Later Spitfire/Seafire had the upper half of the cockpit painted Night, but that was post war. Mk 20/40 series.
  3. "The" person who is familiar with the early Zero-Sen is Nick Millman. Nick offers er a short primer, well worth the price: Painting the early Zero-Sen
  4. Hi Graham, i answered your similar question over on 1/72nd Aircraft, but I'll repeat it here for completeness:
  5. TBH I've only focused my attention on traditional dual action units with the trigger on top. If you had a friend vouche for the brand and dealer, that's better than my opinion! Tell us how it works for you after the first or tenth model...
  6. A new one is currently $70 USD on Amazon. I got mine refurbished for $45 off either FB or Pinterest or Craig's List; don't remember and the price included shipping. At the time they were $125 new in Amazon.
  7. Ahh, the days of telnet command lines...life was simpler then.
  8. I got a (used) medical vortex mixer for test tubes. Touch the bottle to the rubber pad and after 30-60 seconds it's fully mixed. Works better with Vallejo type dropper bottles, but is easy on the wrist and no mess to clean up...as long as I keep the lid on.
  9. Some good advice above. I'm using Tamiya, Hataka, Vallejo, and Model Master acrylics predominantly. I do have some Humbrol but am slowly dumping them as they are difficult to work with anymore as they age. For acrylics success with an airbrush seems to center around quality. Quality of paint, quality of thinners, and quality of airbrush. Trade any of those off an your experience suffers. Both Tamiya and Vallejo are quality paints. I find that acrylics airbrush better when they are thinned with a thinner designed for them. So start with the manufacturers' thinners. Acrylics also work better in an airbrush if the drying time is retarded a bit, and the flow is improved. You buy third party retarders and flow improvers from your local art supply store. Tamiya and Vallejo also sell retarders and flow improvers specific to their paints. Try them. I prefer Mr Color Leveling Thinner as it is a high quality Thinner with retarder and flow improver pre mixed in the Thinner. It does not work with Humbrol at all, but works very well with Tamiya, Gunze, or Model Master acrylics. I haven't tried it with Vallejo as I haven't needed to... Keep the airbrush cleaned. I clean mine weekly as I use it often (not quite daily, but nearly so). Obviously you should clean after every use, but I'm talking about a deep clean. I have a sonic jewelry cleaner I picked up for $25 off Amazon that is perfect. I put a few drops of washing up liquid in tap water, drop the disassembled airbrush in and set the timer to 6 minutes. When done remove and place everything on a paper towel and leave it to dry overnight. I rarely have clogging issues. Lastly, if you are starting with a cheap and/or very inexpensive airbrush, it may be the source of some issues. There are many out there that are low quality, but many that are high quality and not too expensive. You don't mention the airbrush you have, but if you start with quality paints and thinners yet still can't seem to make the airbrush work, even after a deep clean, it could be the airbrush. Be sure to ask for help here.
  10. Mart said it perfectly.
  11. I liked Halfords grey plastic primer when I was in the U.K. Inexpensive and I got 6-8 1/72 single engine models out of it.
  12. Well, ok, except for their helos. Thanks for that.
  13. USN still uses the hose and drogue (basket) method, USAF is fully using the boom method. In joint ops the USN will take advantage of USAF tankers, who show up in the theatre with SO MUCH fuel that strike packages can get plenty of fuel enroutr to/from the target to ensure they usually have plenty when they get back to the CVN for recovery. Organic (CVN based USN) tankers then provide just enough to ensure safe recoveries. edit: reason USN still uses basket is space. No room for those booms on the flight deck of a CVN. The big big advantage to this is that USAF tankers can land with partially full tanks, while the USN tankers have to dump (throw away) excess fuel to get their weight down for landing on the CVN. Saves a huge amount of money for the tax payers.
  14. When I had to add detail to an open biplane cockpit...Frog Blackburn Shark...I started with photos of the real thing and added just enough to give the impression that the rest was there. Well received by my friends, never a competition model, so it was worth the effort.
  15. Klear (Future) does make a great decal setting solution. I rarely recommend it as Klear or Future is not readily available to many Modelers, but if it is it can be a lifesaver. My method is to gloss the model as usual (I airbrush Future). After the gloss coat has fully cured, I dip the decal in hot water as I normally do, and when the decal is ready to slide off the paper I brush a small amount of Future as I would setting solution. I slide the decal on, position it, then wick away the excess. Then I use my damp cotton bud to roll any excess out and force the decal to settle down. All done quickly because if the Future dries it'll ruin the decal. Practice, as noted above, on a mule kit. Does not work on fragile decals. May not work on typical decals, but will work on stubborn or thick decals.