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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".


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About Greenshirt

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    Lifelong - long lived!

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    Left side of the pond...
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    Spitfires, Hurricanes, Martlets, Corsairs, 109's and 190's -- FAA, US Navy and sometimes the Luftwaffe.

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  1. Just an observation on my part, but it seems to me that the IXc and XIX kits are close to each in terms of development, and do seem to share some design elements. They also seem to be, in terms of corporate timing, when Airfix were improving and learning their modern-ish design principles. Before LIDAR most certainly so still CAD only but could be with a huge learning curve. The teams seemed to both share learning and yet keep small items close which resulted in key differences where Modelers would not have expected. They seem to to be very cohesive today and share quite a bit amongst hemselves. They can be mated to create a XIVc quite easily, and the look is nice, albeit not perfect. I've also modified the IXc into a IXe using the 3D-Kits upgrade sprue, which has an improved prop as well. I like how it looks on the shelf.
  2. Sorry, "gouge" is a US Navy term. It means you have the best and critically pertinent information. Typically used by students attempting to pass a difficult class say in nuclear physics. Not to be confused with illegal information, such as a copy of the test. I've used it before on this and other forums and you're the first to question the meaning. Of course, I was once told a "green shirt" was negatively viewed in England. I considered changing my handle but decided to stick to my heritage.
  3. If you've never used something like CorelDraw or Illustrator, then learning to use Inkscape is not really more difficult. Once the learning curve is behind you it's quite easy to use and very cheap (free). There are help forums online where you can ask noob questions. I use Inkscape on my Mac, which does come with some issues, but once understood it does the trick for me. 99% of what I need are black lettering but I have done a couple of color decals using artwork I found online. Specifically a decal only available in 1/32 that I wanted for my 1/72 Dr.1.
  4. 1. I paint and decal the entire model before attaching the upper wings and interplane struts. 2. I use Lego to make a jig, using blue tack to hold the bits in place and to fine-tune adjust alignment. Then apply CA and wait for it to fully dry.
  5. Laurie has some great gouge. Ive found that patience is best when painting a canopy freehand. No caffeine that day either. Dip the canopy in Future first, after you remove it from the sprue and clean it up. Let this cure for a full 48 hours. Advantage is you can simply drop the canopy in ammonia to clean all the paint off if you want to restart. I do this as the first step before I start a build. Mask your preferred way. Whether AM masks or cut your own, or not at all. If you mask, put a very thin coat of satin along the edges first. It both seals the edge and gives the paint something to bite, paints abhor glossy finishes unless airbrushing. If not masking, try to apply a thin coat of satin on the frame; being clear it doesn't have to be perfect. Take a wooden cocktail stick with a chisel edge along the frame edge to clean up the edge of any satin is on the clear areas. I like to put my canopies at eye level ever while I paint, so I use double sided tape and attach to old business cards. Then I use a clothes pin or clamp to get it held up securely, and then steady my painting hand with my free hand. I try to apply the inside color first in a thin coat, let it dry, then apply the exterior color in 2 thin coats. If using Tamiya, let the paint cure overnight between coats. If using a water based acrylic, like Vallejo, I thin with Future 1-1 and put a tiny drop of W&N retarder. The future both helps to smooth the paint and being a resin thins without breaking down the paint. When dry, use the chiseled wooden stick to clean up the edges. If you push too hard you'll scrape off the Future on the clear part...but don't fret. Just paint on lightly a new bit of Future, taking care not to get it on the frame (unless you want a gloss finish) and it should clean up. Practice, practice, practice.
  6. Please try this and report back here your results.
  7. I've married the Revell Vb fuselage to spare wings of the correct shape to make a Vc and a Seafire IIc. Had to add new prop/spinner and canopy, plus Seafire bits but I liked the outcome. I'd rather build a Sword Vc or Seafire as they are much easier than correcting or converting the Revell Vb. As a kit, it's great. Easy to build and looks nicely detailed. Just doesn't look right enough for my tastes OOB.
  8. I'm finding Vallejo Model Color brushes quite nicely, but it needs to be prepped a bit. I mix 1-1 with Future to both thin and get it to retard/flow on the model surface. I mostly airbrush but occasionally need to brush a color. I've tried Vallejo retarder medium and it worked even better, but Future is cheap plus the surface is very smooth and hard.
  9. Good luck finding that unicorn.
  10. Luftwaffe Yellow, RLM-04, is a bit different than Tamiya's XF-3. RLM-04 is slightly redder. But if XF-3 looks good enough for you, then I think the Tamiya yellow spray, TS-16 will also be close enough.
  11. Easy Off oven cleaner. decant it into a dish, apply with an old toothbrush and speed it up a bit by scrubbing. Rinse it off with water. Take care not to get it into the cockpit or other internal spaces and don't assume your seams are water tight.
  12. When I was working in UK during 2013-2014 I purchased Pledge floor polish with Future shine. It was a bluish color, cloudy, but dried clear as can be and worked just like the original Future/Klear. I got it at either Sainsbury or Tesco and remember it being very inexpensive at £2 or so. Try it on anything and see if it dries clear, doesn't have to be a model or canopy. Great thing is, if you put it on a canopy ammonia can take it off so you can start over.
  13. So who wants to pay me to be the lobbyist for the modeling community? I live close to D.C., so that's not at issue, but we Modelers are a cheap lot so I suspect you'll want me to volunteer...and I'd be up against very well paid lobbyists for the manufacturers like Boeing, N-G, and all the others. Then there would be the legal fees as the challenges worked their way through the courts to the Supreme Court...and if they side with the manufacturers we are back to square one: whinging about model prices climbing due to the fractional increases tied to licensing. So, let's say we save the money, buy more kits and continue to whinge as we are surely going to whinge anyway.
  14. Without delving into color theory, not policies surrounding what color was what, I personally prefer a slightly different shade of Sky for the two sets of items that should be Sky. Specifically, the spinner and fuselage band were both painted at the factory or MU whereas the squadrons painted on the squadron codes. So there is very likely some slight variation between the codes and the spinner/band. So I generally paint my own band and spinner the same shade of my favorite Sky paint, but then use whatever decals I think are close enough to Sky even if different than my paint as normal variation. If the difference in the decals are significant (white-ish or a sickly green) I won't use them and find replacements.
  15. Yes, and no. Tamiya and Humbrol are two different types of paint, so won't mix well. You will likely get a goop. If you want to use Tamiya, I'd mix in XF-8 or XF-18 in smaller quantities to get a lightened effect, the latter color having a bit of gray in it.