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About Greenshirt

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    Lifelong - long lived!

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    Left side of the pond...
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Hurricanes, Martlets, Corsairs, 109's and 190's -- FAA, US Navy and sometimes the Luftwaffe.

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  1. So who wants to pay me to be the lobbyist for the modeling community? I live close to D.C., so that's not at issue, but we Modelers are a cheap lot so I suspect you'll want me to volunteer...and I'd be up against very well paid lobbyists for the manufacturers like Boeing, N-G, and all the others. Then there would be the legal fees as the challenges worked their way through the courts to the Supreme Court...and if they side with the manufacturers we are back to square one: whinging about model prices climbing due to the fractional increases tied to licensing. So, let's say we save the money, buy more kits and continue to whinge as we are surely going to whinge anyway.
  2. Without delving into color theory, not policies surrounding what color was what, I personally prefer a slightly different shade of Sky for the two sets of items that should be Sky. Specifically, the spinner and fuselage band were both painted at the factory or MU whereas the squadrons painted on the squadron codes. So there is very likely some slight variation between the codes and the spinner/band. So I generally paint my own band and spinner the same shade of my favorite Sky paint, but then use whatever decals I think are close enough to Sky even if different than my paint as normal variation. If the difference in the decals are significant (white-ish or a sickly green) I won't use them and find replacements.
  3. Yes, and no. Tamiya and Humbrol are two different types of paint, so won't mix well. You will likely get a goop. If you want to use Tamiya, I'd mix in XF-8 or XF-18 in smaller quantities to get a lightened effect, the latter color having a bit of gray in it.
  4. The easiest method is using disposable pipettes and a mixing jar. Using your example, and assuming you only want 10ml, draw 7.5ml of white and put it in the mixing jar; 2ml of orange; and 0.5ml of aluminum. Personally, I tend to also thin at the same time and add exactly the same amount of Thinner as the total I'm mixing; in this example another 10ml. If I need to also add a retarder for brush painting, I add a drop of that, and if I want a flow improver I add a drop of that as well. I mix into jars that hold what I can easily mix (like the above example I would try to fill a 20ml jar, or if I only have a 15ml, then I'd mix 10ml and thin as I need it).
  5. 1) applied with a hairy stick. I use old paintbrushes, about a #0 works best for me. Cheap/stiff brushes don't work well at all, I discard the "free" brush that comes with the fluid. I use for masking...for airbrushing. 2) Two problems seem to occur when I use masking fluid. First, it sometimes goes where I don't want it. Fix: after it's all pulled off and the paint is dry, I reapply and repaint (spot only). Rarely happens. Second, some fluids contain ammonia, which can discolor the underlying acrylic paint that I'm masking. Fix: apply fluid in thin layers. Ensure each layer is fully cured before applying the next. 3) cocktail stick, cotton bud, fingers. I rotate the cocktail stick on the dried fluid and let the friction bring up the rubbery fluid. It then sticks to itself and makes it easier to come up. Same with cotton bud and on broad areas like a wing my fingers work. 4) it cures in about an hour, quicker in a dry climate. Depending on the original color, usually darker and opaque. It'll be rubbery to the touch. 5) I have 3 different makes. Humbrol, Tamiya, and an art store brand. The Humbrol and Tamiya both seem to have a bit of ammonia in them, and can affect Tamiya and Gunze paints; they likely are expected to be used with enamels or lacquers. The art store brand specifically states it is for acrylics and does not have ammonia but is harder to work with as it cures very fast and while opaque it is nearly clear when dry and hard to see on the model. Yes, I think it very useful for all my disruptive camouflage schemes that are not angles, but I only work in 1/72 and believe the soft edges on the real thing effectively look hard edged in that scale.
  6. I picked up a container of glass beads at my local art store (USA-Michaels) for about $7. I think it has 1000 beads in odd colors...not that I care I just wanted glass beads. I put 3-5 in each bottle so likely enough to last my lifetime.
  7. I've generally given up on airbrushing Humbrol acrylics. I can make them work, but the critical balance of flow improver, water and paint seemed to change with the tides, moon phase and mood of my terrier. The most consistent mix was about 30% paint, 60% water, and 10% flow improver (which is mostly water). It went on much too thin, seemed to take too long to dry, and after a week of daily paint sessions was still translucent. Binned. I do use some colors via hairy stick, but only on small bits like in cockpits.
  8. I've got enough to last me of those other chemicals for likely a couple of years. They work, nicely, so I don't see a reason to have something that is neither better, nor fills a gap in capability. Never used it, not readily available around here. When it comes time to start replenishing stocks, I may get it if available. OBTW I also found a jar of Testors decals setting solution behind some older paints. I'm not sure I've ever used it!
  9. Multiple solutions, obviously. Before painting, I drill .XX mm holes, depressions really, where I want the flying and landing wires to go. Also do the same for control surface rigging, and antennae (if any). Size dictated by size of thread I use (slightly larger than thread diameter). After paint and assembly, I then do as SH suggests and start in the center and work my way out. I use Uschi elastic thread, largest diameter for flying and landing wires. I put a small drop of medium CA in the depression, then dip the thread in accelerator, then using tweezers of course slowly bring the end of the thread to the depression. The accelerator instantly causes a very solid bond. I then take a few deep breaths, walk about, relax and the turn the model over and repeat for the other end of the thread. Length of thread: just long enough so that it is not slack, but can flex when touched. With practice the threads can move about quite a bit with no issues, yet remain tight enough to look right. When done with flying and landing wires I then lightly touch them with whatever color I want them to be...thinned paint on a #0 round. Link to my discussion on Uschi: I've used the same technique with clear nylon, but it's not stretchy and any bump usually dislodges the line. I drag the thread across a brush ahead of the gluing for color...don't want to touch anything you know. I also purchasd some nitonol wire, very fine, for the same purpose. I'm told it retains its shape and looks more like a wire's a wire. I've got a Gladiator awaiting that one but it's behind a few Spitfires and Hawk biplanes in the queue.
  10. I used Hu29 for aover a decade and it looked right to until I got my copy of the RAF Museum book. My assessment back in 2013: That was when I went a trek to find a paint that matched the chip. I admit I may have had a batch of Hu29 that was off, but now I use Vallejo or my own Tamiya mix as I've shifted to acrylics.
  11. We are in agreement there. I think it was matched to a photo; when OG is next to Dark Green, it does tend to have a bluish tint to it. But by itself it looks very much gray albeit with a blue undertone. In the tin XF-81 looks close to what I see in photos, but then looks much too blue with Dark Green.
  12. XF-81, when compared to the MAP chips, is almost a perfect match. It also matches closely to Humbrol 116 and 163 when the sheens are adjusted. I'm not saying it looks right on a model, YMMV. I use XF-81 as my goto Dark Green because I do like it. Vallejo 921, English Uniform, is a near perfect match to the MAP chip, both brushed and airbrushed. It's their older line of brushed paint, not the model air range. I've since mixed Tamiya acrylics to match it, albeit still not perfect to my eye. I looked a few different Dark Earth model paints here:
  13. I'm not a chemist, but IIRC from high school chemistry most decal softeners are a base, the opposite of an acid. That is from the smell, which is vinegary. In my experience, the stronger the vinegar smell, the stronger the base, hence the stronger the decal softener. I may be completely out to lunch on this bit. On my shelf, in order of strength from weakest to strongest: DACO soft Microscale sol/set (almost gone, not to be replenished) Revell DecalSoft DACO Medium DACO Strong SolvaSet That's the order I use my decal chemicals and rarely do I need to use the last two.
  14. So for the F4F it appears Grumman was forward looking to alternative power plants, given their experience with USN on previous designs, and interest from foreign governments. Which paid nice dividends later in the various marks, and in the final FM-2 variant. The dry weights of the basic power plants are only about 66 pounds different, with the Cyclone being lighter, so in terms of weight and balance I could see the prop assembly located in the same location on the design thrust line of the F4F with some sort of offset aft of CG as appropriate for specific configuration.
  15. I'm not up on vac canopies for the P-39, usual suspects are Falcon and Squadron. My experience with Academy canopies is they are very crisply molded and very clear. I'll stay away from accuracy issues as that's not your question. Have you glossed it with a clear coat? I always coat my canopies in Future/Klear as a first step in building a model. It tends to both protect it and gives it an almost crystal clear sheen. A big advantage is that when painting it if you mess up you can strip it with ammonia and start over.