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Greenshirt

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About Greenshirt

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    Lifelong - long lived!
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    http://greenshirt-modeller.blogspot.com
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  • Location
    Left side of the pond...
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Hurricanes, Martlets, Corsairs, 109's and 190's -- FAA, US Navy and sometimes the Luftwaffe.

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  1. I use both, and use Mr Levelling Thinner with both for airbrushing. Never had a problem. I wouldn't lay it on too thick though.
  2. Start by googling. This site is just one scratchbuilder's summary. I've never attempted a true scratchbuild, but have used some techniques on aircraft models. I have contemplated scratch building a chassis for a Jeep. For a motorcycle, I'd first attempt to make the frame using styrene rod. If that appears to be strong enough to hold all the components I'd then consider the remainder. If not I'd use the styrene frame as a reference and make one of brass rod and tube, soldered together. Look on YouTube for Paul Budzick videos; he's got one on how to solder properly for our hobby. One added benefit to using tube: you may be able to run some wiring via the tube and hide your electricals. For the suspension and wheels, my brain keeps coming around to a mini lathe. This thread actually has some examples of Modelers here who have accomplished making those using a lathe.
  3. You'll need to either find or create a three-view drawing of the subject. That becomes your base layer and then you can create color layers on top for each scheme. Hide or show layers as you want to see them. That may sound easy, but the first one is a challenge as you learn the intricacies of the app. The following ones become easier as your skills improve. Think in terms of 2-D modeling in the computer, followed by 3-D rendering of the model as the more advanced step. My first attempt took a few hours over three days for the line drawings of the 3-view. Coloring in the first scheme took another day and by that point I'd lost interest as I wanted to build the plastic model. I can hand draw with a pencil w/ notes quicker. But that's just me.
  4. My first reaction was a VLF trailing antenna. Typically seen on command n control aircraft (my experience was communicating with subs). Doesn't make sense on a B-17 late war...so likely a poor theory.
  5. Rattle cans are difficult to match. Moreso trying to match metallics as a sprayed metallic will usually be much smoother than a brushed metallic. Dan's method of brushing metallics is a bit different, and works for him. But if your objective is to match a rattle can I feel for you. Humbrol acrylics have a poor reputation, based on postings here. I've been able to make them work for me, but each one I open lately is useless, so I'm binning them. Haven't purchased any new in 2 years+.
  6. Try Dan's method. Looks pretty good.
  7. My notes from StH show only 30 of the cannon only wing sets being made, during Summer 1940 and deployed during BoB. By December most (likely all) were recalled and modified to b configuration standard. The aircraft may or may not have been modified, as some serials seem to have reverted to a configuration, while others were upgraded to Va and/or Vb standard. I suspect this is because they cycled into the modification process anyway, and airframes were used as they were queued. Yes, it was the AZ, my apologies. I don't have the later KP except in the Vb boxing.
  8. I recently completed this kit as Unwin's Spitfire. According to StH it was called "cannon armed Spitfire" as Mk Ib was not yet a designation. And later the b wing configuration included the .303s which this one did not. Take care of the underwing bulge configuration; it's different than the standard b wing, using a smaller bulge available on the sprues. The instructions are a bit vague. You also need to fill the vent next to the wheel well as that was a later b wing fix. Full build summary here. NB: just realized I didn't address the bulge in my blog.
  9. Given their timeframe, I made the assumption they have the late wing simply because I could not find a photo showing otherwise. Now that I've posted that...I expect to be blasted by photos easily googled showing they were early wings without the bulge!
  10. Excellent photos. That first one appears to have at least 5 different shades of "olive drab" showing, at least from a Modelers perspective.
  11. I can't imagine an historical artifact is worth jail time to keep it from the rightful owner. But if that's how he feels, I hope he's miserable while there and spends the full term. Too bad we can't blast him from here with constant reminders of how horrible he is.
  12. Here in the US most kits from the 70s or earlier go for less than $5 USD at shows. Online they go for $20-50 because they are listed as "rare". They're not as most are readily available. As noted above, the difference between the older kits and today's are the age/wear of the molds. Those older kits actually are crisp and look as new as modern kits, albeit usually with little detail but lots of raised rivets and panel lines. For the price they make great kits to practice and learn from.
  13. A good rule, not a law so it can be ignored at times, is to use a different medium for weathering, than what was used for painting. IOW, if painting with enamels, weather with acrylics. If painting with acrylics, weather with oils. Water colors can be used with either. An exception, is when using a varnish, such as Klear/Future that is effectively a clear resin. This type of product, when allowed to fully cure in 48-72 hours, is rock hard and rarely reacts with either water based or oil based weathering media. Not all varnishes are like this so care is needed to know which are which. I would not recommend using a solvent based acrylic such as Tamiya for weathering as when thinned heavily it will usually react with just about any varnish and or paint, even enamels. Drybrushing yes/ok, but not washes. My experience was harsh, model binned.
  14. Not sure I understand. The paper towel is a bit too abrasive for my tastes. It it's just dusty, certainly, but if the dust is embedded in the paint or primer it needs a bit more. The soft cloth is really for polishing.
  15. For color coats, I typically rub each down with an old t-shirt (soft cloth) and spittle. Done while watching football (real football, not the US kind).