This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here:

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

232 Excellent

About Greenshirt

  • Rank
    Lifelong - long lived!
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Left side of the pond...
  • Interests
    Spitfires, Hurricanes, Martlets, Corsairs, 109's and 190's -- FAA, US Navy and sometimes the Luftwaffe.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,632 profile views
  1. The Type 389 PR XIX is unpressurized, having the same canopy and cockpit configuration as the PR XI. By contrast, the Type 390 is pressurized, having the compressor intake on the port side below the exhausts, and the pressurized canopy/cockpit configuration common with the HF Mk VII, albeit with the PR windscreen. Regarding stencils, as both were new construction and not conversions they would have all stencils from the factory. Which if any remained after a repaint can only be confirmed by a photo, but given all were factory painted in PRU Blue then I'd expect stencils if the subjects color was still PRU Blue. Given the war was over if/when repainted they should retain their stencils as their was no wartime expediency. It's just a hunch, but those two stencils under the intake, and under the canopy; unique to the Type 390 are likely pressurization related. Remember there is no door on the cockpit of pressurized Spitfires. Most period photos don't seem to show them, so it may be a post-war H&S requirement.
  2. It may. The reason would be that Tamiya paints contain a solvent, as does their thinners, that could react with the Klear. I recommend using a water based paint, such as Humbrol or Vallejo, or even a child's water color set. I've used the latter in the past to good result; just realize any water based paint needs a very small amount of dish soap (washing up liquid) to break the surface tension of the water.
  3. I use Gators Grip: Acrylic glue. It goes on with a paintbrush, water thins it, a cotton bud (damp) cleans it up, it's gap filling, and dries clear and very hard. Never had a canopy come off, and it doubles as small windows if used like PVA.
  4. I used a very small bit of plastic rod, forgotten the size but it's sat in a primed state while I decide how best to paint all the stripes and other colors. Finally caught up on all the reading...wasn't prepared for the history lesson and truly enjoy it all!
  5. I'm not sure what my first AB was, but seem to remember it was a badger. At any rate, I could not afford a compressor so for a few dollars was able to rig the hose to a spare tire, using the air can adapter. I then used a $5 spare tire compressor to air up the...spare tire. Plugged into the cigarette lighter, it was 12v and I could air the tire from my old VW beetle to about 50 psi and get a session done. No regulator so it was marginally better than a rattle can, but I was learning! my first real compressor was from Sears -- small, with a tank and very noisy, I got it for double duty to keep my car tires inflated and to use my AB. I also hit a regulator and water trap at the same time. Total was about $50, 25 years ago as it was on sale. Still have that setup but its sole job is now tire inflation. I now have a silent compressor (Iwata?) I purchased 10 years ago on sale at the Nats. It came with a regulator, although it doesn't need one. The pressure is only about 25 psi. I now have 2-3 airbrushes, but my workhorse is the Iwata HP-CS. Check garage sales (I've seen some compressors there) and don't be afraid to experiment. You've got a lot of years yet in this hobby.
  6. Engineering. When done properly it's a beautiful thing.
  7. I don't. Seriously, when I brush paint I simply take my time and hand paint the edge.
  8. Not sure I understand the overall color acrylic based, or enamel based? Reading your posts one way I'm inclined to believe you painted the model overall primer, then added just the color bits using Humbrol acrylic. If this is the case, then I agree with the recommendation above: get another set of decals and try again. This time put a sealing gloss coat that is different than your wash over the color. Reading another way, you primed, then painted it over all using Humbrol acrylics. If this is the case, then you should be able to take a cotton bud dipped in thinner (for the enamels) and carefully rub the area until most of the paint comes up. Alternatively, you could find a decent match to the grays, and then try dry-brushing the seams until you "hide" the wash in a way that is pleasing to your eye. I'd try the latter -- nothing to lose at this point -- and if it doesn't come out well then try the "new decals and start over" option.
  9. Right. Then I would consider Tamiya Tape the best solution at this point. I'd cut a strip as wide as the common height of a series of windows, then cut the length of each to fit the individual window. I'd also consider filling in the seam (if any) between window and hull with Gators Grip to allow it to be sanded smooth with no seams. Then apply the tape.
  10. For windows that small on your kit, I'd forego a mask completely and fill the hole with PVA or acrylic glue like Gators Grip. It dries clear and hard, cleans up with water if not yet cured/dry so allows you to paint and then put in the windows at the end. For larger windows i apply Tamiya tape around the edge, a thin strip, then fill in with the liquid mask.
  11. Likely better asked over in the WWII section; of course search there first as it is a thread discussed there before.
  12. I use Gators Grip, an acrylic glue. Dries clear and is rock hard. Water soluble so can be applied with a brush, thinned, and it wicks into the gaps between the vac canopy and kit.
  13. I replied to the same query over in Paint:
  14. I've never seen a NMF scheme done well the first time. Or second...or third. Most successful models (in the eye of the builder) in a NMF scheme are the result of practice, mistakes, and multiple attempts. I've seen a fellow modeler strip a kit 3-4 times to get the NMF right. If its the scheme you want, keep at it and you'll be rewarded.
  15. I use liquid cement for plastic to plastic. Using an old paint brush I put a small drop in the hole, wait about "5 mississippis" then insert. I use Tamiya thin mostly and this is all it takes. If resin or metal to plastic, I use superglue.