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~Dan~

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About ~Dan~

  • Birthday 13/09/1971

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    Here on this forum, it's 1/72 aircraft from Africa and Middle East in WWII. Please check my 'About Me' page for more info.

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  1. Okay, but I'm afraid I'm a bit old school, I learned with enamels and I'm now switching to Acrylics, so there may be other people here that can give the finer points of how the paints interact. Basically I would lighten the base colour for scale effect... and then go a bit further because the subsequent washes are likely to darken things up. Start with a wash of a darker version of the base colour. Then maybe use some dark red brown. Basically, whatever the thinner of the paint you are using is, use it to flood over areas of the model. And then ad a touch of paint to the areas where it has pooled in edges. You can do it another way which is to just greatly thin the paint and then just flood it on, but I find you have more control over where it goes using the other way. So that will have darkened up the recessed corners. Next I would probably dry-brush on a lighter version of the base colour to pick out the detail. And then I'd brush on darker versions of the base colour on ware areas. (But the way, I'm missing out any distressing techniques for rust and chipping as this is a whole other kettle of fish!) ...okay. I think that what I would probably do at this point is just continue adding steaks and patches using darker and lighter versions of the base colour, and versions of the base mixed with a hint of brown. You can also buff some areas and scratch it using a sharpened matchstick -- you don't want to go through the paint, just mark the mat finish. At this point you should end up with just a painted finish which looks oxidized, faded, slightly stained and worn. You can then do more washes of dirt colours on the upper surfaces. White on the hull in the hull for salt -- unlike normal washes, you aren't aiming to fill panel lines, instead adding streaks and patches on the panels. And then add multi-coloured filters. You can look up washes and filters, they will show you how to do them much better than I could explain. Other than that, you can keep going as much as you like. Just remember that you can't dry-brush as much as you like because you start to get a grainy paint finish, but washes you can keep going with. Your model will tend to get darker as you keep going, so start off with a light mix of the base colour. You don't have to do the whole model at once. You can do it bit by bit, which will help get a less uniform effect which is what you want. As I said, you can also use pastels from the art shop. They tend to give a nice dusty effect which may not be appropriate for a boat! But you can put them on and then wipe them off again with a damp tissue, they will leave some staining. As you can tell, I don't have a system for weathering, I take a freestyle approach for a more random and natural looking effect. I really envy you now, having talked about it, I wish I were the one having a go!
  2. and this one:- http://forgottenhope.warumdarum.de/screens...2/12308LCVP.jpg See what I mean by salt staining? Personally I'd go about this by using loads of filters and washes. Then maybe end up with some chalks and pastels.
  3. Didn't the Royal Navy frown upon such things as rust? I'm sure somebody will tell us, but I'd think rust would be at a minimum -- maybe the odd streak. I'd go for something that looks like chipping, I would think that landing craft get bashed about. Some grime colours as a wash, and then some salt staining? I found this picture which may help inspire:- http://forgottenhope.warumdarum.de/screens...h2/12308LCA.jpg
  4. It's okay. You are among friends here. What you get up to in your own time is fine by me. It just makes the world a more colourful place.
  5. Do you have more on this? I haven't really looked into this or checked anything, but in my notes, four aircraft were borrowed by 225 for about two months. As far as I knew they were the standard US P-51-. My notes say the serials were 41-137361, 41-137366, 41-137424, and 41-137428. Were these actually A-36, or were the A-36s in the MTO a separate story? I'd be very interested if somebody has more info on this?
  6. I have been using white milliput, I've had this packet at least 7 years. It's working fine, so I don't think age will effect it. When it gets really old it goes crusty around the outside, but still not known it to not harden. Sorry.
  7. I revamped some of our company's old web pages today, two of which advertised the service for doing this kind of work. There was a picture on one page of a MkII golf, and a pic of Corsa being done on another... they seemed so old and naff, that I almost dumped the lot. Well, it's not been that long that Vauxhall changed to clear-over-base. And there are still plenty of commercial vehicles which are solid coat... so we won't be throwing away the compound just yet!
  8. Where did you get the photo from? It was probably just edited so it could be used on a European website.
  9. That's not a phrase you hear every day of the week.
  10. What you say is true to a point. It used to be the case that you could restore the colour of faded paint on a car, but that was in the days before clear coat. polish a car these days and you are just polishing the varnish, you aren't getting anywhere near the faded paint. So the only solution is a respray. So if the aircraft was varnished... As for smoke damage... this is my business partner's area of expertise. But from what I remember, they generally don't bother cleaning plastic as it becomes impregnated, and any of the special chemicals they use for removing tar, also attack plastic and synthetic rubber. But that's not to say it is impossible, its just that odour is one of their major considerations, not just discolourations, and economic viability plays a part too. The other tactic they use is to paint over smoke discolouration... so I'm afraid nothing I have seen in the professional world would indicate that it's very likely. You may get lucky and get fairly good results by washing with detergents, alcohol and vinegar, if you painted/varnished with a good enamel. You could even try polishing with a colour restorer. It won't help with faded paint under varnish, but tar staining will just have impregnated the very surface, it may work. But you may want to think about getting a paint stripper, some after market decals and a new vac formed canopy. In the long run, it may be more fun.
  11. The guy in the middle is checking his fly...
  12. Well, I haven't really been exposed since painting airfix spitfires when I was about 8. When I did, I saw Blue. Most of the time now, I see blue. Sometimes I see a photo on these forums, I see green. So although it is a blue-green, it is mostly blue. I was a graphic designer for 20 years... if I didn't have pretty good colour perception somebody would have told me during that time! As for the actual eggs. I grew up in the country and seen a lot of eggs. Basically, eggs can be all colours. For example, chickens can lay white to dark brown eggs, and there is no difference between them (They don't taste different incase you are interested). From what I understand it is genetic to the chicken, but there is variation depending on what they are pecking at and how much calcium there is in it. There is also variation within a clutch. The only actual duck eggs I remember seeing have been off white -- neither green or blue. But as a general rule of thumb with bird eggs... my impression is that if they are anything other than white/brown, they are blue with a hint of green, or brown with a hint of green. of the two, the latter is more green. So maybe thats your answer. ...talk to me of egg green, And I think of an egg which is heavily speckled with brown...
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