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Helidriver

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  1. Keeping this thing going with another small update. No real big things left on this build. Next "big" thing will be painting and installing flaps and gear doors. After that its, touch ups and detail paint, clear coat and decals...and propellers. Anyways, masked and painted the engine air inlets. The aftermarket set comes with what I can only think are flap actuator jack screws. Decided to replace these with metal ones. Jack screws and flap guides installed. Ken
  2. Thank you, It's not an aftermarket part, but it is from a different Hasegawa P-3 boxing. The nose that came with this, older, kit had a square looking sensor turret on the bottom. Instead of puttying and sanding I used the nose form a different box as that P-3 will be built as a snub nosed Electra. Ken
  3. Small update today, Flaps are masked and ready for paint. Fuselage has been painted again, some touch ups and repaint on the top where I had to fill and sand. Nose is clued on. It seems to be of a slightly wider diameter than the fuselage, but I'm not going to stress about it. Thanks for looking, Ken
  4. Got the top of the fuselage sanded down. I doubt it will be "perfect"... Top of the flaps were painted red. Will have to mask and paint white as well as fuselage color. Am I missing something here? The front support / drag brace on the nose gear is WAY to short for the resin part and does not reach the gear well. I see no reference to this in the instructions... Next plane will be straight out of the box...no aftermarket stuff. Maybe. Ken
  5. Got a couple of wheels on! Masked and painted the nose cone and anti glare black in front of the cockpit. And, of course, while doing all this the top seam of the fuselage cracked open again. So glued that with Tamiya super thin glue, will sand and repaint again later. The fuselage needs some touch ups in any case so not a huge disaster. Ken
  6. I don't think there would by any visible damage apart from the propeller blades, but it just seemed more natural to have that engine open for inspection. But since pieces of prop and Flanker flew all over the place I guess inspecting #3 also makes sense.
  7. Oh boy...finally getting back on track. Who knew that a new house, new job, new dog, and a toddler could take up so much time??? Anyways. Here is the current state of affairs. Fuselage painted, but needs some touch ups here and there. Engine detailed. I originally wanted the open cowlings to be on the #4 engine, as that's the one that was hit by the Flanker and had the prop feathered. But the resin would only fit on one of the inner engines. So, #3 opened up and #4 feathered is the new plan. Wheel wells, bomb bay and flaps are all painted white, but still needs some detailing and wash. The RNoAF aircraft are kept very clean, so weathering will be at a minimum. Current focus is on the wheels. Once this thing is on it's own 3 feet it won't scrub off the fuselage paint any longer...hopefully. Sorry for the delay in finishing this. Progress should be quicker now. Ken
  8. Well, it's been a while... We bought a house and moved from New York to New Jersey, and I finally got a better modeling area. For the first time in many many years I can actually get my stash out of boxes and into shelves. Last pic from the old modeling area: The new work bench: The stash...I might have hoarding tendencies... I'll try to get the modeling mojo back and get this Orion done! Thanks, Ken
  9. Almost done with all the extra work I made for myself....aka resin detail sets. Main wheel wells glued in place Flaps cut out and glued in the wing as well.. As seen in the photos of the aircraft immediately after the incident there were no under wing stores or pylons. So I closed up all the holes and recesses.. Thanks for looking, Ken
  10. After some sanding and cursing I managed to get the wheel wells to fit! One day I'll build a kit straight from the box... Ken
  11. Back again.... Being back at work post my covid furlough really cut into my hobby time... Got the cockpit and bomb bay sorted and installed, and the fuselage halves together. And this is where I get a bit confused/frustrated... The gear well looks ok from this side, albeit just dry fitted and not painted yet: The other side however... Instructions calls for sanding it down to shape to make it fit...but the resin as well as kit parts are so thin even before sanding that they are see through. Clearly sanding this to fit will not work. Probably going to ditch the resin wheel wells. Luckily the surgery performed on the kit still makes it possible to use the kit gear legs. And with the gear doors in place it wont be obvious that the resin part isn't there. Unless you look for it.. Thanks, Ken
  12. Can finally call this one done. Started back in the summer of 2018, Covid-furlough finally gave me time to finish it. It's resting loosely on the brass screws, so it takes on a bit of a list at times... My mother in law placed it over her fireplace...guess it's as safe there as anywhere... Thanks for looking, Ken
  13. Thanks Phil. The brass came with the kit. Only "aftermarket" part is the wood. Ken
  14. Calling it done! Hand painted the nameplate, that was a pain. The plaque was sprayed black and the details scraped clean with a toothpick. Happy with the result.. The finished product Thanks for tagging along and encouraging me to get it done. Ken
  15. Lovely job. Really want to attempt a Norwegian Sea King, but that paint job is terrifying...but you did it justice. Ken
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