ptcruiser

@Fnick Yes, see here

problem solved

It has been a very looooonnnngggg time since I posted a build pic here. Hope the wait was worth it... The new Airfix 1/43 E-type. Kit is from the box, no mods (until you get to the last pic). Interior is basically Hycote Matt Black straight from the rattle can with a few details picked out in the acrylics you get in the starter set. Exterior blue was decanted from a rattle can picked up at an auto jumble for 50p, lacquered with Mr Color UV Gloss. All chrome is airbrushed Molotow from the refill. The last pick features replacement wheels & tyres from Motobitz. You decide if you think they're better 😉. Enjoy Rich

Agree about Doyusha, and it says that Heller and Airfix tried and this form is from the same era. Are you sure it's not this one? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/243032-revell-dune-buggy Rich

Revell issuing old Airfx kits? Something doesn't sound right there I'm affraid? Rich

It's the same as the US kit in Germany boxing - just as you are looking for :), as will be the C7.R Rich

try here; www.modelkars.uk Rich

traders are restocking

been out for weeks, seen several built too - Car & Motorcycle SIG at Telford will have one Rich

Ref San Remo, possibly Luigi Villa in a T51 Bugatti. 1937. Raced #8. Rich

Ref the advertisement colour picture, the steering wheel is on upside down? The same image is on the black and white instruction manual for the meal kit. Rich

John is quite correct - Humbrol 220 - Italian Gloss Red (ironically) over a grey (metal) primer. The grey is sufficient to take some of the brightness out of the finish which is what I was trying to achieve. Being a gloss enamel it will also achieve the level of sheen required as opposed to the "wet look" that modern single or twin pack laquers achieve. Rich

Olivier, my model is the original Protar white metal bodied kit, out of the box with no modifications. VT copied one of the tyres for his resin versions. loving this exchange Rich

In the TV show show where the General was built, Cooter refers to it as engine orange. This has lead to the conclusion of Hemi orange. In terms of consistency, this illustrates your options: Rich

Hi John. Go back to the pic I posted from the Locomobile levers, the knob is on the GAS lever. Maybe as you say it's associated with the ignition (?) lever? Rich

I think the notches in the #54E are to accommodate the limitations of the model moulding rather than to be proto-typically correct Olivier.

I think #122 would be described in the UK has a fiddle knob or steering knob. Usually found on heavier equipment or where the driver has difficulty steering which is why I always thought it strange on a race car. Like this:

I found this on the US IPMS web page , a full build is provided there if you haven't found it. http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/fiat-806-grand-prix-part-2 The above pic shows the steering wheel arrangement in the kit. No the steering wheel ought not to be wooden and the body colour is "interesting" but that's not we're discussing here.... Rich

Like this Olivier: This is a 1916 Locomobile, but the principle is the same. To stop the levers moving they would be on a ratchet type arrangement and the levers moved across them to lock into position/stop them slipping.

I attended a trade show at the NEC a couple of weeks ago dedicated to 3D printing. My conclusions were that the type of machines required for our desired results are only in the realm of the professionals. Think Shapeways in the US where they have a number of different sorts of machines and having seen some recent products from them they are superb. The Hobbyist, at this point in time will not be satisfied with the results we would achieve from the "budget" end of the market ( "Trade" machines can range from a few thousand GBP to millions!). Additionally, there are finishing tools still required to remove the striations we are familiar with. The secret, however, is in the preparation of the artwork for the machines to print from. This is a new skill for many modellers, and they need to be produced in some form of CAD and then converted into the file format required. Degrees of accuracy are also a consideration, and the higher the accuracy the larger the file size. There are modellers out there with the requisite skills, and there are service providers for both printing and 3D scanning. Pays your money, takes your choice..... Rich

hmmm. Wonder what issues the rear end/dif etc will be in, could use them in another project ....

try here for the picture

Ashley, if you can find the Italeri one (also boxed by Revell long before the Protar one) I think's it better than the Fujimi one. Just a personal opinion, having got both. Rich