Doolie

Note that the top row of insignia, 4th from left, where it says "equal" for the height of the bar, is incorrect. The bottom drawing, where it says 1/2 Rad, is correct. To some, this may seem overly picky, but it is a common error that to my eye, really throws the proportions off. Just look at them upside down, and you'll notice the difference.

That's OK, you can just claim that it's that famous Dauntless in all the documentaries. You know, the one they always show bombing Pearl Harbor . By the way, the model and the base are looking really good. Regards, Tom

As far as I know in Canadian IPMS chapters it's supposed to be fit and finish, but as judges are human, subjectivity tends to creep in.

Watch for the opening on the engine cowlings, they're a dead giveaway on Academy B-17's, as the opening is too small, with a sharp edge. Easy to correct with a little (ok, maybe a bit more than a little) sanding. I often wonder why I never seem to hear anyone mention it, but it always jumps out at me when it's not corrected. Regards, Tom

We know that some were; We don't know that all were.

You mean pedantic? 😉

Aaah, English... I'm so glad I didn't have to learn it as a second language, there are probably more exceptions to the rules than there are rules. how about this one: How many ways to pronounce "ough"? Rough--RUFF Through--THROO Thought--THAWT Though--THO Cough--KAWF Drought--DROWT Lough--LOCK Hiccough--HICCUP That's all I can think of for now

Sorry, I just can't help myself, but that should read "the transfers are a bit translucent". Transfers are meant to be opaque. Please forgive me being pedantic but I've seen this mistake being made on product reviews and it could be confusing to someone. That's all, as you were.

I don't know if "Blacken It" is still available, I think I used AK Interactive Photo Etch Burnishing fluid. Either will work. The brass should be well cleaned and make sure you don't leave it in the solution too long or it will ruin the part. Regards, Tom

Master gun barrels are much stronger and probably better looking than the resin ones. Use a blackening solution instead of painting to preserve the fine details. Regards, Tom

The problem is that the Quickboost wing is just a modified Hasegawa copy. They did not change all of the different panel lines or the shell ejection openings, which are not in the correct locations.

https://flex-i-file.com/en-ca/products/tweezers-tools

I think it is intended to be Medium Sea Grey, but I built Picadilly Princess with red codes. I'm afraid that I can't recall exactly how I came to that conclusion, though.

Why is the triple pack $2 more than buying the single pack and the twin pack?

Cue @dogsbody

I preordered a bunch of stuff about 6 years ago. I have contacted them several times and gotten many excuses and optimistic ETA's. When they said 4 to 6, I thought they meant weeks, not YEARS. Thanks for reminding me, I think it's time to see if their refund offer still stands. I think I've waited long enough.

I only see five grey sprues. The one with the belly gun pack (the one that makes this kit a IVf) is missing.

If you haven't already ordered those parts, I would advise against the nacelles. They aren't really much of an improvement over the kit parts. If anything, they are actually a bit smaller. A better solution, I found, was to re-scribe the kit nacelles, as they are a bit weak in that regard. The Quickboost propellers and engines are worth the investment, as they are a good improvement. It's funny to hear you say you need space, as the wing span of that kit is around 17 inches. The instructions would have you glue the wing sections to each other (centre and outer), then join the three of them together. What I found that worked quite well was to join the top three pieces together and the bottom three pieces together on a flat surface, and once they've set, join the top and bottom halves together. I also sandwiched in a 3/8 inch aluminum rod, to reinforce the wing as I heard that it could be prone to drooping after sometime. Hope this helps, Tom

Abebooks? 🤔

I'm really late to the game here but...what about using the PE panel as a scribing template? If there is any fastener or rivet details, they could be replicated with an appropriate tool (riveter, beading tool etc). Hope this helps, Tom

This does work very well. I came across a tip on someone else's build (can't remember who) that used white paint instead of silver before the clear colours, and I think in certain cases it looked even better than using silver. It gave more of an illusion of the lens appearing to be transparent. Regards, Tom

A nice easy way to do it is to use Tamiya AS12 spray, straight out of the rattle can. It takes masking quite easily it's quite robust so if you like you can mask off panels and do it in alclad or whatever your favourite metallic paints are

TBolt nailed it exactly, and the photo illustrates it perfectly. Notice how side by side the "A" looks darker than the other letters, due to the background. Well done.

I cut along panel lines to remove the closed slats and replaced them with the kit parts. This was relatively easy as the Wolfpack wings appear to be directly 'adapted' from the Academy wings. Given that the slats are automatically deployed when the landing gear is lowered, (would the wings ever be folded when the gear is up???),I felt that deployed slats should have been included on the Wolfpack set. Regards, Tom

For me, this is one of the aspects of this hobby that keeps it interesting. I enjoy trying to figure out these little challenges, and it's often helpful to get "fresh eyes" or some one else's perspective on it. I'm not always the best at lateral thinking, and there have been many times when somebody has a solution that makes me go: "why didn't I think of that". Cheers, Tom