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    • Mike

      DDoS and Brute Force Attacks   09/18/2016

      From the day following upgrade to the new forum software, 15th Sept until the 19th, we were under a concerted attack by a person or persons using a number of 'bots and other people's Proxy networks to carry out what is called a Distributed Denial of Service attack, which is a method by which these 'bots submit thousands of requests to the website per second to overload the server and bring the site to its knees.  While this was going on, they were also making Brute Force attacks on our remote communications port to try and breach the server so they could do anything from format the hard drives to change ownership of the site, and bombarding the mailserver with similar bogus requests, some of which left some rather telling details behind.  This was followed up a couple of days later with a further attack that left more data to sift through, which we have passed on to our IT forensics people.On the advice of our Lawyer and fellow member JohnT, we yesterday informed the National Crime Agency and requested their assistance with the matter, and in an ongoing dialogue with them to find the culprits, so we are allowing them access to the server and its logs.    We don't believe that this is a random attack on balance, but for 5 days and a further evening we had to put up with some disturbance and interruption to the usually fast response of the website as we are seeing now that the attack has ended.  We will prevail, and don't worry about it.  We were the target, and these people will not win.  Karma will catch up with them   Mike, Greg, Dave & Julien.

Don McIntyre

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About Don McIntyre

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  • Birthday 11/09/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Clarksville, Tennessee, USA
  • Interests
    Primarily 1/48th scale from between-the-wars to now. Also dabble in 1/35th armor, 1/24 & 1/25th autos and the occasional 1/700 or 1/350 ship.

    Being a retired P-3 aircrewman, MPA is also a major interest.
  1. Someone will be along very soon to tell me how far out to lunch I am, but I believe that they are essentially the same as US Army aircraft. A couple of nice shots here: http://www.airfighters.com/photosearch.php?cra=639&for=192&sor=2&lim=5&dis=thumbs
  2. I find that other than on short run kits, I tend to blame myself for fit issues. As an example, on another forum I belong to, myself and another guy were building (he's finished, I still have work to do) Monogram's old AV-8A/Harrier GR.1. He didn't use any filler, while I needed filler on pretty much every seam. I think he was just more careful in his assembly than I was.
  3. Apparently there was a photo that was used as a reference where there apparently was (unbeknownst to those using the said photo as a reference) a ladder sticking up on the opposite side of the aircraft, but this got misinterpreted and then repeated and repeated to the point it became a "known fact." We know better now... IIRC the Ta 154 was also originally a Dragon mold. It was molded by Dragon and apparently their agreement with Revell/Monogram allowed R/M to release it first as a Promdeler kit. It was later released by Dragon on it's own and then as part of the Mistel combo.
  4. My guess is flat black to keep extraneous reflections to a minimum.
  5. Bill Koster (of Koster Aero Enterprises fame) gave me a tip for dealing with vacuform kits. Spray the plastic sheet one overall color (I prefer primer Gray). When you separate the part from the backing sheet you'll see the part in primer and the extraneous plastic will show up as white. Sand the material back until all you've got is the primer showing and the part should be good. However you still need to test fit to make sure you don't sand away too much plastic. It's easier (much) to take away plastic than to add plastic.
  6. Keep in mind, when describing how awful this kit is to build, that these molds are probably from the mid-late 1950s originally.
  7. I don't know how useful this will be, but this is the UH-1B at the Don F Pratt museum on Fort Campbell, Kentucky: http://s20.photobucket.com/user/DDonSS3/library/UH-1B Ft Campbell
  8. While probably not true to the prototype, I think the A-20 would look rather fetching in the Blue-Gray over Light Gray finish...
  9. Nothing at all to do with the Academy kit. Academy's kit was basically a copy of Fujimi's old (late 60s?) 1/50 kit.
  10. Definitely not the same as Academy. This kit came out after the Academy/Minicraft split. IIRC, True Details made a resin cockpit for the Academy kit that MAY fit.
  11. While this does seem a bit expensive, I think this set is worth getting: http://www.micromark.com/micro-mesh-finishing-kit,7601.html This is a worthy alternative: http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-sanding-and-polishing-pad-set-set-of-6,7787.html If you use them wet for primarily canopy repairs and sanding for Natural Metal finishes, they'll last for years. You can also use them to polish paint, but that may decrease their lives by the buildup of paint.
  12. Micro Mesh would work well. For future reference, I would dip the part in Kleer (and let dry) prior to any painting. That way if you do mess up the paint work, you can just soak the part in household ammonia and the Kleer and paint will come off (I let mine sit overnight) with no sanding required. Dip the part in Kleer again, then try your paint work again.
  13. Aeromaster did a set of nacelles as well, but IIRC they were for the Monogram kit.
  14. Apparently so, I found this review: http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/reviews/kits/montexrma7202reviewrb_1.htm
  15. The wartime photos I've seen for the -1J seem to show the USMC (and USN) using either the Tricolor scheme or overall Sea Blue. I learned a long time ago, not to use "Warbirds" as a reference... It seems to me that we modelers spend $10-15 for a kit and spend more time researching colors than many of the owners of multi-million dollar (or Pound) 1:1 scale aircraft.