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Francis Macnaughton

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About Francis Macnaughton

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  1. I get the best results by having a sort of sprue run so that the resin is fed down first underneath the item and then rises up into the area of item being cast with a vent at the top to allow all the air out. This always gives the most consistent results especially in terms of minimising trapped bubbles.
  2. Assuming that you are after 4mm = 1ft scale, have a look at Plastic Soldier review which shows virtually every figure ever made in 1:76 th or 1:72nd http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Manufacturers.aspx
  3. I'm pretty sure that it is because some of the chemicals in old enamel are no longer considered safe but doubtless Jamie at Sovereign can give the full answer.
  4. Thanks Jamie re Kagero publications for info A general question about Colourcoats if I may - what matt varnish (preferably spray can) would you say works best? I made the mistake of using the Humbrol 49 spray acrylic on a hull with an Admiralty Light disruptive pattern and found the bits I had painted with B6 going crinkly in several places even though the bits that are 507B were unaffected.
  5. Also much impressed and interested to see how you take things forward. What was the source of the 3D view of the Air Defence Platform? I am keen to find out whether the UP mountings on Hood had dedicated control sights.
  6. A14 is used to hold polythene bushes in place so that the tail side pieces are removeable - see stage 12
  7. I have converted one of these to radio control so not absolutely sure what the static solution is but I presume the 4 parts A15 join 2 each of A10 or A11 respectively. I wonder if the parts DA4/5 are still meant to hold the gear wheels in place - perhaps check if these fit snugly over the raised circle of plastic around the central holes in A10/11? A13 also looks like it fits the central holes in A10/11 but there are only 2 of these I can't see what A12 and A16 are meant to do - they don't appear to fit into or over the other parts of the gears
  8. I wish you luck with getting those - MoD is very strict about any shots below the waterline being classified although I did see a dry dock shot of Illustrious in Navy News some time back
  9. I would suggest Googling the 3 Bat fitted squadrons (VP or VPB 109, 123 and 124) and see what is offered but there seems to a bit of uncertainty about which aircraft actually carried Bats on a mission. This seems as good as any but without weapons fitted https://laststandonzombieisland.com/2016/04/28/bring-in-the-bat/aircraft-is-pb4y-2-59522-vpb-109-miss-lotta-tail/
  10. The Retromecanix website has some good stuff on the actual weapon fit http://retromechanix.com/usaaf-evaluation-of-navy-swod-mk-9-bat-glide-bomb-1945/ I don't know of any aircraft shots of combat missions but it might be possible to identify a particular aircraft that flew a Bat mission from Alan C Carey's "The reluctant raiders", which is the history of VP109, one of the few Bat fitted Privateer squadrons.
  11. Unless it was figures from a very rare set, most are so cheap that it isn't worth the effort when you could just buy another box.
  12. Can anyone clarify for what roles a Swordfish II would have retained the radar display (I presume it would be mounted on the console facing the observor) and which would have had it removed? I assume the aerials are retained regardless of role. Tamiya don't incorporate the display in their offering so that would suggest only certain roles could be modelled.
  13. About half an hour ago I saw a Sea King AEW following the A38 at very low level from Exeter to Plymouth and presumably en route to Culdrose I hadn't realised that there were any SK still operational but reading up about 849 Sqn apparently so
  14. Colin I am following your build closely as it will definitely be the guide for me to use when I can find the time! Are you planning to fit any external stores? I will do mine as for the attack on ARA Santa Fe so will need 2 DC Mk11 - anyone any suggestions for a source of those in 172nd? Francis
  15. Rob Re the flag halyards - looking back over this thread I can see you have found some photos that definitely show the halyards for your version going to the back of the bridge at a single point on either side. For the Snowberry as I have done the kit, the best photos I can find show the halyards as being parallel and more vertical so I have put the halyards to the rails on part E 456 as at stage 48. I also reduced the length of the yardarm to 26mm using brass rod as the kit one is far too long to achieve this and definitely looks wrong. Had you looked at whether you will need to adjust your yard arm too? regards Francis